[RBW] Re: BQ fund drive for Black Lives Matter

2020-06-02 Thread Jan Heine
Thank you, Doug. I appreciate the thoughtful words.
Jan

On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 10:09:03 AM UTC-7, Doug Hansford wrote:
>
> Jan,
> I was too quick to criticize you and I apologize. These are not normal 
> times and so I think off-topic may be on topic with all that has been 
> happening in our world. Again, I hope your fundraiser is successful and I 
> think your intentions are Obviously noble. 
> Kind regards,
> Doug

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[RBW] Re: BQ fund drive for Black Lives Matter

2020-06-02 Thread Jan Heine
I'm sorry – I had mixed feelings about posting here. I just wanted to let 
people know, not start a never-ending discussion, have all kinds of trolls 
descend on this group, etc. I offer the blog for discussion, if people feel 
the need.

Thank you.
Jan

On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 9:35:57 AM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> We want to do more than just say nice words. We want to help make change 
> that is real and lasting. With that intent, we’re renewing the tradition of 
> Bicycle 
> Quarterly fund drives to address urgent needs. For 24 hours, from 0:00 
> until 24:00 (Pacific Time) on *June 2, 2020*, we’re donating $ 36 for 
> each Bicycle Quarterly subscription to *Black Lives Matter*. That is the 
> full amount of a U.S. subscription. Details are at
>
> https://www.renehersecycles.com/blog/
>
> And let's not turn this into an off-topic political discussion, please. 
> This is just a public service announcement. Feel free to comment on the 
> blog. Thank you!
>

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[RBW] BQ fund drive for Black Lives Matter

2020-06-02 Thread Jan Heine
We want to do more than just say nice words. We want to help make change 
that is real and lasting. With that intent, we’re renewing the tradition of 
Bicycle 
Quarterly fund drives to address urgent needs. For 24 hours, from 0:00 
until 24:00 (Pacific Time) on *June 2, 2020*, we’re donating $ 36 for each 
Bicycle 
Quarterly subscription to *Black Lives Matter*. That is the full amount of 
a U.S. subscription. Details are at

https://www.renehersecycles.com/blog/

And let's not turn this into an off-topic political discussion, please. 
This is just a public service announcement. Feel free to comment on the 
blog. Thank you!

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[RBW] Bicycle Quarterly 8-packs, Rene Herse book Special ($50)

2020-04-06 Thread Jan Heine


Everybody needs a good read right now! We all know what to do to keep 
ourselves and others safe. We all know what is going on in the world. There 
is a time when it's important to turn off our screens, make a cup of tea, 
and enjoy a good read.

To supply you with reading material, we're offering a big discount on our 
most popular literature. For a limited time, you can order 8- and 9-packs 
of *Bicycle Quarterly* and/or our 424-page book *Rene Herse • The Bikes • 
The Builder • The Riders,'*for $ 50 each. Either will give you many hours 
of reading enjoyment. For details, head over to 

https://www.renehersecycles.com/blog/

Jan Heine, Rene Herse Cycles

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[RBW] Rene Herse Sample Sale

2020-03-23 Thread Jan Heine
We're all in this together, and we've been encouraged how everybody has 
been pulling together to face this challenge. At Rene Herse Cycles, we've 
thought about what we could do to help. Most of us can still ride our bikes 
– solo – for transportation, exercise and to keep our spirits. Most of us 
still need bike parts...

We have a sizable stash of parts that haven't been used, but that we don't 
want to sell as brand-new, either. These are parts that we've used for 
photo shoots or for testing tire fit on rims. Some are prototypes that 
don't have the right stickers. Usually, we run these components on our own 
bikes, but we're now offering them to everybody in our Sample Sale: tires, 
pedals, generator hubs, bags and more. More info is at:
https://www.renehersecycles.com/blog/

Most of all, we hope everybody is staying safe and healthy!

Jan Heine
Rene Herse Cycles
Reborn in the Cascade Mountains
www.renehersecycles.com

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[RBW] Re: Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder

2020-02-18 Thread Jan Heine
Craig,

Thank you for sharing your experience. What pressure did you run them at? I 
find that on my Firefly, at 20 psi, the Rat Traps float over gravel like 
nothing else, but are almost unrideable on pavement. 25 psi is a good 
compromise for rough mixed-surface rides, but they're still no fun on 
twisty descents: The bike runs wide in tight corners. At 30 psi, they 
corner wonderfully on pavement, but for rough gravel, they're a bit harsh. 
At 35 psi, they sing on pavement like a narrow racing tire. With a max. 
pressure rating of 55 psi, there is a lot of room for tuning your tires to 
your needs and preferences...

Jan Heine
Rene Herse Cycles
Reborn in the Cascade Mountains
www.renehersecycles.com


On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 9:27:31 AM UTC-8, Craig Montgomery wrote:
>
> BTW fellas, just posted my RTP's for sale. Couldn't get used to that 
> squirminess. Didn't feel right in fully-loaded touring mode. Will let 
> someone else bounce around on 'em. 
>
>

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[RBW] Frank Berto RIP

2019-12-14 Thread Jan Heine
Word just has reached us that Frank Berto passed away last weekend. Frank 
was one of the brightest technical minds of the cycling world, and many 
here have used his tire pressure chart. Others have enjoyed his book *The 
Dancing Chain*. Some may even remember his derailleur tests during the 
1970s and 80s. A short obituary is on our blog 
<https://www.renehersecycles.com/blog/>. A longer feature will appear in 
the next *Bicycle Quarterly*. He will be missed!

Jan Heine
Rene Herse Cycles
Reborn in the Cascade Mountains
www.renehersecycles.com

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse rene crankset ultegra chains?

2019-06-15 Thread Jan Heine
I don't recall exactly which Ultegra 10-speed chain we used. Both should 
work fine - we've had problems only with a few chains from third-party 
makers.

Jan Heine
Rene Herse Cycles
Reborn in the Cascade Mountains
www.renehersecycles.com

On Friday, June 14, 2019 at 6:27:45 PM UTC-7, Toby Whitfield wrote:
>
> Jan, 
>
> Thanks for that information. One quick clarification question- do you 
> recall what 10 speed Ultegra chain you found worked well? There are 2: the 
> 6600, and the 6701. In think the 6701 is asymmetrical and has to be 
> installed in a certain orientation, but I've never held one in my hands. 
> Looking for a couple new chains to use with 10 speed on my Rene Herse 
> crankset.
>
> Toby Whitfield 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse rene crankset ultegra chains?

2019-06-14 Thread Jan Heine
To add some clarification to the chain recommendation for Rene Herse cranks:

11-speed rings (also suitable for 9- and 10-speed): Ramps and pins have to 
be designed for one specific chain, and we designed ours for the 11-speed 
Ultegra chain. So the shifting is best with this chain. Other chains should 
work, but may not shift quite as smoothly.

5-10-speed rings, 10-speed: There are some 10-speed chains that have a 
propensity for chain suck. We've done a lot of testing with Ultegra chains, 
and they work great. So that is our recommendation, but others may work 
well, too. Just avoid chains that are known for chain suck...

5-10-speed rings, 5-9-speed: Use any chain you want. I run SRAM 8-speed 
chains on my Herse (5-speed), Urban Bike (6-speed) and Mule (7-speed), with 
no problems whatsoever.

Jan Heine
Rene Herse Cycles
Reborn in the Cascade Mountains
www.renehersecycles.com

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

2019-04-15 Thread Jan Heine
Regarding the different Berthoud models, their less-expensive saddles are 
not rebuildable. They are intended for OEM bikes in Europe, and they use 
rivets instead of their custom bolts. At Rene Herse Cycles, we only sell 
the fully rebuildable top-of-the-line models, which also seem to have the 
best leather.

What I love about Berthoud is how carefully they select the parts of the 
hide to make the tops, whereas most makers simply cut as many tops out of a 
hide as possible. Leather is a natural product, and the knowledge of how to 
orient the saddle tops on the hide so that they don't stretch or become 
lopsided is a well-guarded secret. It has been handed down by generations 
of leatherworkers from the old Idéale factory, who then helped Berthoud set 
up their saddle production more than a decade ago after the original Idéale 
production ceased.

Jan Heine
Rene Herse Cycles
Reborn in the Cascade Mountains
www.renehersecycles.com

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

2019-04-15 Thread Jan Heine
James,

Thank you for the additional information.

I believe Proofide contains neatsfoot oil, which breaks down the leather 
fibers. We don't recommend it, because it tends to do what you describe: 
Suddenly softens the leather and then has it break down completely. I 
haven't used Proofide, so I don't know whether it affects the leather of 
Brooks saddles (which tends to be harder) than the higher-quality leather 
of the Berthoud saddles differently.

We sell Obenauf's Leather Preservative instead, which just conditions and 
waterproofs the leather without softening it.

Jan Heine
Rene Herse Cycles
Reborn in the Cascade Mountains
www.renehersecycles.com

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

2019-04-14 Thread Jan Heine
James,

I am surprised by your experience that Berthoud saddles wore out 
prematurely. How many saddles were affected? If it's a small number, it 
could have been one hide of leather that wasn't as good as the others...

We've sold hundreds of these saddles, and amongst our team, we've got about 
a dozen in regular – often hard – use. Testing the Juniper Ridge tires was 
hard on the saddle - long, cold, wet gravel rides on a fender-less bike. I 
put a small saddlebag under the saddle to protect it as much as possible, 
and it's still fine. So are all the others we have in use, including one of 
the very first prototypes (No. 024, I believe) that I have used on my Urban 
Bike for 12 years now. 

The leather tops are replaceable – not just in theory by drilling out 
rivets and resetting them, but in practice using a simple Torx wrench – but 
we've sold very few tops, indicating that these saddles last as long as the 
other posters suggest. The only problem we've heard of is that the screws 
can loosen as the leather shrinks a bit with age. We recommend tightening 
them every 6-8 months. If you lose one, we sell the replacements 
individually, not just as a set.

Jan Heine
Rene Herse Cycles
Reborn in the Cascade Mountains
www.renehersecycles.com

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse crank wobble/deflection issue(?)

2018-09-27 Thread Jan Heine
On Thursday, September 27, 2018 at 11:36:14 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> My legs aren’t heavy!  Your legs are heavy!  Harrumph


[image: ] I should have said 'our legs.' [image: ]
Muscles aren't light! A cyclist's weight is mostly in the lower half of the 
body, whereas a swimmer's is in the upper half.

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com 

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse crank wobble/deflection issue(?)

2018-09-27 Thread Jan Heine
Even pedaling backwards while riding, you flex the BB. Your legs are quite 
heavy, and their weight alone will flex the BB! 

The amount of flex even in a relatively stiff frame is surprising. When we 
spent two days in the University of Washington wind tunnel for the big 
aerodynamics study in *Bicycle Quarterly* 21 
<https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-21/>, our team noticed 
how much my old Alex Singer flexed while I pedaled on their special trainer 
at a very moderate effort. *"You should have seen Lance A. when he was 
here,"* was the response from the wind tunnel staff,* "his bike flexed just 
as much."* 

If you worry about chainring wobble, stop and spin the cranks backwards by 
hand. Then you can see just the chainring runout, without the confounding 
factor of the frame flexing. Of course, also make sure your BB doesn't have 
play, and that your chainring and crank bolts are tight...

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

On Thursday, September 27, 2018 at 7:05:20 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> One important point from Jan’s comments that I suspect may be overlooked 
> by some is that you should judge chainring wobble or run out on the 
> workstand. If you are riding the bike, look for it pedaling backwards. When 
> you are actually riding the bike, pedaling forward, everything flexes and 
> you can’t possibly separate run out from normal flex in your machine. The 
> OP indicated his 3mm of run out was on the workstand. 
>
> Bill Lindsay 
> El Cerrito Ca

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse crank wobble/deflection issue(?)

2018-09-26 Thread Jan Heine
Been reading the posts about crank wobble with interest. It's something 
we've spent a lot of time thinking about. For our Rene Herse cranks, we 
went beyond what is standard in the industry to ensure they run true: The 
cranks are machined in special custom-made fixtures (one for each crank 
length, since we use different forgings and the arm thickness also varies 
with crank length) to make sure the spider arms don't deflect during 
machining. We're confident the arms run as true as they can, and far better 
than most cranks.

How do you get a wobble then? Every part has a tolerance – meaning it's 
close to the value specified in the design, but not quite there. You can 
reduce the tolerances – which increases the cost – but you cannot eliminate 
them. 

On a crank, four factors are the main culprits when there is a wobble:

1) the square taper on the spindle. This is the most important one, because 
the radius of the spindle is so small. Even a tiny wobble gets translated 
into a significant wobble at the chainring. Unfortunately, it's also one of 
the hardest to machine, so it's not uncommon to have issues there. See 
below how to address this.

2) the crank itself. The Rene Herse crank has to be machined to very high 
tolerances, because the small BCD translates imperfections into a larger 
wobble at the ring than you get with a larger BCD. Thanks to the tight 
manufacturing tolerances, there is no problem here, unless the spider gets 
bent if the bike falls over.

3) the interface between crank and chainring. Make sure there is no metal 
shavings, etc., trapped between chainring and spider. All interfaces of the 
Rene Herse cranks are machined at the same time, to eliminate issues that 
one chainring tab might be out of alignment with the others. 

4) the chainring. As you machine the chainring from a flat sheet, inbuilt 
stresses are released. If you've worked with wood, you know this – as you 
carve away, the wood may crack or warp. With aluminum, this is less of an 
issue, but it still exists. Basically, even a perfectly flat sheet of 
aluminum will look – very slightly – like a potato chip after machining.

If you are lucky, all the tolerances cancel out, and the crank runs 
super-true. If you are unlucky, the tolerances stack up, and you get a 
noticeable wobble, even though each part is fine by itself. What can you do 
in that case?

a) Make sure everything is assembled correctly. Grease the spindle to make 
sure the crank seats perfectly. Tighten the crank bolt enough to seat the 
crank properly. When in doubt, use more torque. We've yet to see a busted 
Rene Herse crank or broken crank bolt... (When cranks came loose, it's 
usually because the bolts weren't tightened enough during the installation.)

b) Rotate the cranks 90°, 180° or 270° on the spindle. That way, you can 
find where the tolerances cancel out.

c) Just as the arms can get bent in a fall, you can also true them. Spin 
the crank and use a marker like a truing stand - you'll get a line where 
the chainring has runout. Then put a piece of wood on the nearest chainring 
bolt and hit it with a hammer. You need a good tap to bend the arm. We 
don't usually recommend this, as you need to be a good mechanic, otherwise, 
you'll probably make the problem worse. This allows you to adjust for all 
the tolerances and make the rings run true. If you take off the crank, mark 
the orientation on the BB spindle, so you mount it the same way.

d) The old tool for truing the chainrings (basically a lever with a slot) 
doesn't work on Rene Herse cranks. The rings are machined from ultra-hard 
7075 aluminum for wear resistance. 7075 cannot be bent. It springs back. If 
you bend it too far, it'll snap – in theory. In practice, you'll have to 
bend it almost 180° before it breaks.

The final question is how much wobble is acceptable. I'd say 3 mm is too 
much, but if you get 1.5 mm, you'll never notice while riding. Your frame 
flexes far more than that. That is also why you can't judge the chainring 
wobble while looking down as you ride. You need to spin the cranks 
backwards, so there is no load on the chain...

Reducing tolerances is mostly a question of money. A jet engine costs 
upward of $ 10 million because of the extremely tight tolerances. There is 
a Japanese jet engine parts maker, Gokiso, who makes bicycle hubs. They 
cost a whopping $ 5000 for a set. I've seen them, and they do spin truer 
than your average hubs, but I doubt I'd notice the difference on the road.

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] The origins of bar-end shifters and other mysteries

2018-09-12 Thread Jan Heine
Many of us love bar-end shifters, but little is known about the history of 
these handy little things.

On the blog today, we're looking at one of those fascinating mysteries of 
cycling history: Why did 22 racers switch to bar-end shifters DURING the 
1949 Tour de France? And why did they use only one bar-end shifter, to 
control the front derailleur, but kept their downtube lever to operate the 
rear derailleur?

Aldo Ross dove into his collection of sepia-tone magazines, we scoured the 
*Bicycle 
Quarterly* archives, and we solved this mystery as much as it can be solved 
almost 70 years after the fact. Head to the blog to read about this and 
other mysteries from cycling's rich history.

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/09/12/international-mysteries-of-cycling-history/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Editor-in-Chief
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle, WA, USA
www.bikequarterly.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: BB Spindle Length for Sam/RH Crank

2018-03-14 Thread Jan Heine
The chrome on the bolts shouldn't flake off. You need to tighten those
bolts quite hard to seat the cranks properly. If the chrome flakes off,
that is a manufacturing defect – probably a little cutting oil residue
coating the surface during the chroming bath – and we'll replace the bolts
under warranty.

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

On Wed, Mar 14, 2018 at 8:12 AM, lconley <lcon...@brph.com> wrote:

> Be careful installing the RH crank bolts if you are using them, the chrome
> looks nice but can be thick (tight in the socket or crank tool), and is not
> of particularly high quality - flakes off easily.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa FL
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 14, 2018 at 10:29:27 AM UTC-4, Michael Doleman wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the great response, I appreciate it. And for the record,
>> someone did get back to me yesterday, and I placed an order. I went ahead
>> and got the recommended 110mm spindle, which is what I'd suspected would be
>> correct.
>>
>> I feel pretty confident in my knowledge, most of the time, and -- as you
>> say -- that it's totally not rocket science. The variables are few and
>> quantities known. But then I start seeing all sorts of different
>> information and it introduces a bit of doubt in my mind -- and it's a lot
>> of money to spend, so I want to be sure I'm getting it right.
>>
>> Anyway, I'm sure the crank will be great; I'm really looking forward to
>> putting a lot of miles on it.
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: BB Spindle Length for Sam/RH Crank

2018-03-13 Thread Jan Heine
Others already have answered, but to reaffirm from the manufacturer: Both 
spindles – 110 and 113 – will work fine. With 135 mm spacing, your 
chainline will be 2.5 mm further outward on the rear, so you can use a 
longer spindle to move the front outward as well – unless you ride in the 
big ring mostly, and it makes sense to put the chainline on the big ring 
rather than half-way in between. 

It's not rocket science, and these days, even the big makers fudge quite a 
bit, with the chainline inward at the rear (to cram in all those extra 
cogs) and outward at the front (to clear massive chainstays on aluminum 
bikes). So the old 'iron-clad' road chainline of 43.5 mm from the bike's 
centerline now is only a recommendation. We designed our René Herse cranks 
to have a 'perfect' chainline, because it offers better shifting. Using 
forged arms and careful design, we can make them slim enough to fit most 
bikes that way, but if you need to go wider, it's easy to do with square 
tapers – unlike cranks with integrated spindles, which tend to be designed 
for the 'worst case.'

In addition, with some bikes that are intended for wide tires, the 
chainstays are very wide, and you have to space the cranks wider to clear.

Regarding contacting Compass - sorry that our phone system has been playing 
up. We are checking why it doesn't take messages. We usually return 
customer service emails within a day or two. As a small company, we don't 
have dedicated customer service staff just standing by... but on the 
upside, the person who'll answer your question isn't just reading from a 
script, but actually knows our products.

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Lyli Herse, 1928 - 2018

2018-01-05 Thread Jan Heine
We had planned to celebrate Lyli Herse's 90th birthday today, but instead, 
we have to announce the passing of the 8-times French champion and daughter 
of the famous builder René Herse. But we'll celebrate her anyhow, because 
she continues to inspire us!

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/01/05/happy-90th-birthday-lyli-herse/

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
Seattle, WA, USA

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse "went to go-fast 700c rando machines many years ago for a good reason"?

2018-01-03 Thread Jan Heine
Patrick,

I am currently riding a bike with the knobby Pumpkin Ridge 650B x 42s here 
in Japan (check both the @compasscycle and @bikequarterly Instagram for 
some photos). I love the tires for the rides we are doing here in the 
winter. Of course, we have to weigh the issues of mold costs and the need 
to keep all these different products in stock, but your dream tire and mine 
aren't very far apart...

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com


On Thursday, January 4, 2018 at 11:26:15 AM UTC+9, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Jan, Since you’re “on the line,” I noticed you have been testing 
> bikepacking rigs including with wider tires. Do you have any plans for 
> supple, 2.1” or wider 700c tires, including nobbies? Your Steilacoms are 
> brilliant in snow and gravel/sand and do amazingly well on pavement. I’d 
> love a bikepacking tike for my 700c Hunqapillar. Grin. I understand that 
> for much of the riding you do, the tires sizes you have for various wheel 
> sizes make perfect sense, but there is certainly a market for wider tires 
> in 700c and different types of riding. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse "went to go-fast 700c rando machines many years ago for a good reason"?

2018-01-03 Thread Jan Heine
Good question, John. It took some time to dig out all that data from the 
many tire tests we did. We never tried to show that our Compass tires were 
fastest – in fact, when we first tested tires, we didn't even sell tires. I 
pulled together the data...

Here are our roll-down tests:

Compass Extralight: 25.3 seconds
Compass Standard: 26.7 seconds
Michelin Pro2 Race: 26.8 seconds
Grand Bois Hetre: 27.1 seconds
Panaracer Pasela (non-Tourguard): 27.3 seconds
Schwalbe Marathon: 28.3 seconds
Rolly-Poly: 28.5 seconds
Maxy-Fasty: 29.8 seconds
Nifty-Swifty: 30.6 seconds

Small differences between tires don't mean much with real-road testing: 
there is always some noise, and our calibration for different temperatures 
on different test days may introduce a slight error. We also didn't test 
the Compass tires in our roll-down tests – they weren't available yet back 
then – but we tested other tires that performed identical in later track 
tests, which allows us to infer their performance. 

What this means is that it's impossible to say whether a Michelin Pro2 Race 
or a Compass Standard is faster... but you can say that you'll be 
significantly faster on a Compass Standard than on a Marathon.

To check out methodology, we also tested tires on a track (paved, not 
wooden) with a power meter. We didn't test all tire models, but we did test 
the following tires on the same day, at 27.78 km/h (17.3 mph). This means 
that the conditions were exactly the same, which reduces the 'noise' 
considerably:

- Compass standard: 157.8 W
- Schwalbe Marathon: 167.6 W
- Rivendell Rolly-Poly: 168.5 W

These results confirmed what we found in our roll-down tests, and since 
they were done at a constant speed, it's easy to see what this means in a 
real-world setting: To keep up on the rider with the first tire, a rider on 
the third tire must put out 7% more power. That is a huge difference – if 
you have two riders of identical fitness, the rider on the slower tires 
would be unable to keep up. And the 'standard' Compass tire isn't even the 
fastest tire we've tested - you can gain an extra 5% over that... If you go 
much faster than 17.3 mph, the difference will be smaller - wind resistance 
becomes more important – but if you go slower, the difference will be 
larger. That is why for most of us, tires make the biggest difference in 
the performance of our bikes.

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

On Thursday, January 4, 2018 at 8:49:13 AM UTC+9, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Jan
>
> I do remember the your original tests showing these to be slower.  Also, 
> the original tests had the Pasela with a low resistance, about the same as 
> the Grand Bois in it's size.
>
> Can you compare the resistance of a Compass tire to these, to allow one to 
> validate your claims??  I do not your claims, based on the casing 
> differences, but a little validation goes a long way.   Perhaps include the 
> resistance of a slower tire so one can see the Compass improvement, e.g.
> X = Compass
> Y = GB or Pasels
> Z = slower tire with a resistance of Y + (Y-X)
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse "went to go-fast 700c rando machines many years ago for a good reason"?

2018-01-03 Thread Jan Heine
P.S.: Tires like the Marathons and others mentioned previously serve a real 
need in the tire world, too. It's not that one tire is better than the 
other - it all depends on what you need in a tire. If you are riding half a 
mile to the train station, as many Germans do, a flat tire will have you 
miss the train. A Marathon will be a little slower and ride more harshly 
over the bumps, but you'll never notice that on your 5-minute ride. A 
Compass tire makes no sense in that scenario. Or if you plan a long ride on 
the shoulder of busy highways that are full of steel wires from exploded 
truck tires, you may want to trade speed and comfort for puncture 
protection.

That said, as we go with wider tires, the risk of flats is much-reduced. A 
42 mm tire at 40 psi simply rolls over a piece of glass that would puncture 
a 23 mm tire at 100 psi. And if you ride on the scenic backroads that see 
little travel, then you'll encounter far less debris, too.

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse "went to go-fast 700c rando machines many years ago for a good reason"?

2018-01-03 Thread Jan Heine
We did test Marathons, Rolly-Polies, Maxy-Fasties and Nifty-Swifties. All 
these were among the slower tires we tested. That shouldn't come as a 
surprise – these tires weren't designed as performance tires, so we only 
tested them to see how much you'd gain by going to high-performance tires. 
The answer is 'a lot' - especially if you ride at lower speeds than pro 
racers, who are more limited by aerodynamics than the rest of us.

Hetres were designed based on the results of our first tire tests, so they 
performed quite well. We then developed our Compass tires together with the 
engineers at Panaracer (who make Compass tires to our exclusive 
specifications). We used everything we'd learned from the Hetres and other 
Grand Bois tires (also made by Panaracer), to take comfort, speed and grip 
to the next level. We bench-marked these against tires like the Vittoria 
Open CX Corsa. Our testing indicates that the goal was achieved.

It has been exciting to work with a tire maker who not only has the 
resources to develop great tires, but also has been willing to work closely 
with us to turn the results of our tests into actual tires we can ride. The 
rest of the tire industry is only slowly waking up to the fact that riders 
in the real world want and need wide tires that don't have sturdy 'touring' 
casings, but that offer the performance and comfort you can only get with a 
high-performance casing.

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

On Thursday, January 4, 2018 at 3:57:09 AM UTC+9, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Did they test the Compass tires against Marathons. Rumplins, and Hetres 
> yet?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Time Traveling Grant?

2017-12-17 Thread Jan Heine
That seems most likely. I was wondering why would an American actor would 
be doing wheelies in a French village, perfectly coiffed and with a 
professional photographer in attendance!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly

On Saturday, December 16, 2017 at 2:59:57 PM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Or a movie set? It looks almost *too* genuine to be a real French village. 
>
> –Eric N
>
>
> On Dec 16, 2017, at 11:06 AM, Jan Heine <hei...@earthlink.net 
> > wrote:
>
> Neat photo! The sign in the back says "Cremerie" and "Beurres," so it's 
> probably France.
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor
> Bicycle Quarterly
>
> On Saturday, December 16, 2017 at 10:12:08 AM UTC-8, JohnS wrote:
>>
>> Very cool indeed! That has to be the tallest stem that I've ever seen. 
>> What do you think of the location? France, Spain or Italy?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> JohnS
>>
>> On Saturday, December 16, 2017 at 10:24:21 AM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>>>
>>> Very interesting—wonder if Grant traveled back in time to deliver this 
>>> bike to actor Dean Jones? I see moustache-y bars, ‘bars raised to the sky, 
>>> flat pedals ... and Jones is wearing street clothes (and no helmet) and 
>>> riding in a very “just have fun” way, 
>>>
>>> Grant? Do you have something to tell us?
>>
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[RBW] Re: Time Traveling Grant?

2017-12-16 Thread Jan Heine
Neat photo! The sign in the back says "Cremerie" and "Beurres," so it's 
probably France.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly

On Saturday, December 16, 2017 at 10:12:08 AM UTC-8, JohnS wrote:
>
> Very cool indeed! That has to be the tallest stem that I've ever seen. 
> What do you think of the location? France, Spain or Italy?
>
> Thanks,
> JohnS
>
> On Saturday, December 16, 2017 at 10:24:21 AM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>>
>> Very interesting—wonder if Grant traveled back in time to deliver this 
>> bike to actor Dean Jones? I see moustache-y bars, ‘bars raised to the sky, 
>> flat pedals ... and Jones is wearing street clothes (and no helmet) and 
>> riding in a very “just have fun” way, 
>>
>> Grant? Do you have something to tell us?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse "went to go-fast 700c rando machines many years ago for a good reason"?

2017-12-16 Thread Jan Heine
It's true that René Herse's and Alex Singer's bikes went to narrower 700C 
tires for their randonneur bikes. They didn't stop at 30-32 mm. By the 
1970s, their bikes were equipped with 25 or even 23 mm tires. This wasn't 
necessarily because they thought these tires were faster – they were 
following the general trend toward narrower tires.

The wide 650B tires you see on French cyclotouring bikes from the 1930s and 
1940s bikes trace their origins to the insight of Velocio, the editor of 
the magazine Le Cycliste. In the 1920s, he realized that supple, wide tires 
roll as fast as narrow ones on smooth surfaces, and faster on rough ones. 
His stories of riding far and fast on these big 'balloon' tires captured 
the imagination of his readers. In the 1930s and 1940s, Velocio's influence 
continued in the Concours de Machines (Technical Trials), where the rules 
required wide tires. The Concours captured cyclists' imaginations, and 
having a 'Concours Bike' was the dream of many. On the rough post-war 
roads, wide tires also made sense.

The last Concours was held in 1949. Cars and mopeds were becoming popular, 
and in the downturn of the bike industry, It was hard to find the money and 
initiative to organize another Concours. Without anybody promoting wide 
tires, cyclotouring bikes started following racing bike practice, and many 
switched to 700C wheels and narrow tires. 650B made a minor comeback after 
Serge Félix rode a 650B Herse to third place in the 1955 Poly de Chanteloup 
hillclimb race. One of our René Herse posters 
<https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/books/rene-herse-poster/> shows 
him during that ride. He demonstrated once again that wider 650B tires 
aren't slower even on smooth roads. But a single result wasn't enough to 
turn the tide, and the '650B revival' was short-lived.

And as demand dwindled, supple, wide tires became unavailable. Rene Herse 
stuck with wider tires and 650B longer than most, but without any 650B 
tires beyond heavy utility models, it didn't make sense to build 
high-performance 650B bikes. In the 1960s, Wolber introduced their "Super 
Randonneur" 650B tires so that the old bikes still out there could continue 
rolling, and that led to many touring and camping bikes being built for 
650B again. But those tires were just 32 mm wide, reflecting the general 
trend to narrower tires. By then, 700C bikes already used 25 mm tires. The 
French Confrerie des 650 consists of riders who came of age during that 
time, and that is why they champion the 650B x 32 mm tire size so ardently, 
and are quite disappointed that the world has gone to 650B, but in much 
wider widths than used by the bikes of their youth.

Velocio's insights that wider tires can be as fast as narrow ones weren't 
rediscovered until Bicycle Quarterly, and, shortly afterward, others like 
the Cervelo pro team, started testing tire resistance with the rider on the 
bike. Now, more than a decade later, it's well-established that wider tires 
roll as fast as narrow ones, provided they use the same casing and 
construction.

However, performance isn't everything, and the feel of the bike can be just 
as important, especially to a non-competitive rider. Narrow tires do feel 
different, and Mike Kone has often said that he likes a 'connected' feel to 
the road. A wider tires insulates you from the road surface, which can be 
good for speed and comfort, but may not be what you want if you enjoy a 
'sports car' feel. I suspect that it's this feel that Mike really is 
talking about when he writes that wide tires aren't as "fast and perky."

At Compass Cycles, we respect all approaches, which is why we offer our 
tires in a variety of widths and diameters. We can tell you which tire is 
faster (or not), but we won't tell you which bike feel you should prefer. 
There are many wonderful bikes out there. While my tires may be wider than 
most, I equally enjoy my Firefly with its 'wide' 54 mm tires and my J. P. 
Weigle with its 'narrow' 38s, and my other bikes with their 'in-between' 
42s.

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rene Herse "went to go-fast 700c rando machines many years ago for a good reason"?

2017-12-16 Thread Jan Heine
Mike Kone's observations about René Herse's and Alex Singer's bikes are 
only partially correct. Yes, they did go to narrower 700C tires for their 
randonneur bikes, but they didn't stop at 30-32 mm. By the 1970s, their 
bikes were equipped with 25 or even 23 mm tires. They were following the 
general trend toward narrower tires.

The wide 650B tires you see on French cyclotouring bikes from the 1930s and 
1940s bikes trace their origins to the insight of Velocio, the editor of 
the magazine Le Cycliste. In the 1920s, he realized that supple, wide tires 
roll as fast as narrow ones on smooth surfaces, and faster on rough ones. 
His stories of riding far and fast on these big 'balloon' tires captured 
the imagination of his readers. In the 1930s and 1940s, Velocio's influence 
continued in the Concours de Machines (Technical Trials), where the rules 
required wide tires. The Concours captured cyclists' imaginations, and 
having a 'Concours Bike' was the dream of many. On the rough post-war 
roads, wide tires also made sense.

The last Concours was held in 1949. Cars and mopeds were becoming popular, 
and in the downturn of the bike industry, It was hard to find the money and 
initiative to organize another Concours. Without anybody promoting wide 
tires, cyclotouring bikes started following racing bike practice, and many 
switched to 700C wheels and narrow tires. 650B made a minor comeback after 
Serge Félix rode a 650B Herse to third place in the 1955 Poly de Chanteloup 
hillclimb race. One of our René Herse posters 
<https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/books/rene-herse-poster/> shows 
him during that ride. He demonstrated once again that wider 650B tires 
aren't slower even on smooth roads. But a single result wasn't enough to 
turn the tide, and the '650B revival' was short-lived.

And as demand dwindled, supple, wide tires became unavailable. Rene Herse 
stuck with wider tires and 650B longer than most, but without any 650B 
tires beyond heavy utility models, it didn't make sense to build 
high-performance 650B bikes. In the 1960s, Wolber introduced their "Super 
Randonneur" 650B tires so that the old bikes still out there could continue 
rolling, and that led to many touring and camping bikes being built for 
650B again. But those tires were just 32 mm wide, reflecting the general 
trend to narrower tires. By then, 700C bikes already used 25 mm tires. The 
French Confrerie des 650 consists of riders who came of age during that 
time, and that is why they champion the 650B x 32 mm tire size so ardently, 
and are quite disappointed that the world has gone to 650B, but in much 
wider widths than used by the bikes of their youth.

Velocio's insights that wider tires can be as fast as narrow ones weren't 
rediscovered until Bicycle Quarterly, and, shortly afterward, others like 
the Cervelo pro team, started testing tire resistance with the rider on the 
bike. Now, more than a decade later, it's well-established that wider tires 
roll as fast as narrow ones, provided they use the same casing and 
construction.

However, performance isn't everything, and the feel of the bike can be just 
as important, especially to a non-competitive rider. Narrow tires do feel 
different, and Mike Kone has often said that he likes a 'connected' feel to 
the road. A wider tires insulates you from the road surface, which can be 
good for speed and comfort, but may not be what you want if you enjoy a 
'sports car' feel. I suspect that it's this feel that Mike really is 
talking about when he writes that wide tires aren't as "fast and perky."

At Compass Cycles, we respect all approaches, which is why we offer our 
tires in a variety of widths and diameters. We can tell you which tire is 
faster (or not), but we won't tell you which bike feel you should prefer. 
There are many wonderful bikes out there. While my tires may be wider than 
most, I equally enjoy my Firefly with its 'wide' 54 mm tires and my J. P. 
Weigle with its 'narrow' 38s, and my other bikes with their 'in-between' 
42s.

Jan Heine
Founder
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com 

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[RBW] René Herse: The Beauty of Function

2017-12-15 Thread Jan Heine
We've admired René Herse's bikes for a their beauty, function and 
performance for many years. However, it took a long time to figure out just 
how Herse made his bikes so stunning despite (or rather, because of) their 
simplicity... We share some of the secrets of the 'magician of Levallois' 
in this blog post:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2017/12/14/rene-herse-the-beauty-of-function/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle, WA
www.bikequarterly.com

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[RBW] BQ Icon: First Rivendell Lugs

2017-06-08 Thread Jan Heine
In every *Bicycle Quarterly*, we present an "Icon" - a part that we feel is 
among the best of its kind. Some are classics, like the JOS headlight or 
the Huret Jubilee derailleur, others more recent like the Shimano M-737 SPD 
pedals, or even timeless, like the Brooks B-17 saddle. Together with a 
beautiful studio photo, we talk about the history and significance of the 
part.

The Summer 2017 "Icon" are the first Rivendell lugs, originally designed by 
Richard Sachs for Bridgestone, and used on the very first Rivendell Road 
frames way back in 1994. You could say that the resurgence of lugged bikes 
began with this lugset, and for good reason: It's still one of the most 
elegant curly lugsets ever made. My linked attachments don't always come 
through, so I posted a photo on our Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/bikequarterly/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Disc Brake Pros and Cons

2017-01-13 Thread Jan Heine
It seems that mechanical discs need larger rotors than hydraulics, that is
all. We tested a Jones with 200 mm rotors and mechanical (mtb) Shimano
discs (XT, I recall), and they were very powerful, but a bit too grabby.

All the bikes we've tested recently with 160 mm rotors (mostly TRP Spyre
brakes) were "almost" fine, but not quite as powerful as a good centerpull.
That seems to indicate that 180 mm is worth a try...

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 2:09 PM, Evan Baird <vanster...@gmail.com> wrote:

> While I agree that drop bar hydraulics feel loads better than mechanicals
> in terms of modulation, I'm curious whether Jan knows of any mechanical
> brakes that pass muster. My experience has been that using compressionless
> housing makes a huge difference in terms of power, but I haven't ridden the
> Paul Klampers or the TRP Spyres long enough to form any opinion. I ask
> because I'm planning to try an Ultra Romance style non aero disc brake
> combo on my Ravn build, and you better believe I'm going to ride that thing
> on singletrack.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Disc Brake Pros and Cons

2017-01-11 Thread Jan Heine
The Pauls are nice in their own way, but they don't work well with racks
that mount to the canti posts...

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 8:07 PM, Ryan Ray <ryanr...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Aren't the Paul neo-retros just updated mafac canti brakes? Maybe you guys
> could get a review set :)
>
> - Ryan
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Disc Brake Pros and Cons

2017-01-10 Thread Jan Heine
We've sourced a number of yokes from old Mafac Raid brakes. They have been
checked, polished and made better than new. Soon, we'll offer a limited
number of brakes for bolt-on mounting... Stay tuned. (And if anybody has a
set of Mafac Raid - not Racer - yokes or backing plates that they don't
need because they mounted the brakes to brazed-on pivots, please get in
touch...)

Commissioning a forging die for the backing plate and offer it as a regular
model is unlikely, because the cost is so high. A CNC-machined yoke would
have to be very beefy to withstand the loads, and it would look totally out
of place with the slender forged arms of our brakes.

Jan Heine
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 6:13 PM, ted <ted.ke...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hey Jan,
>
> Speaking of products Compass might consider ...
> In the past I've seen posts wishing that Compass brakes were offered with
> yokes for mounting without brazed on posts.
> Yesterday I saw (or at least think I saw) "with yoke and ..." options in
> the menu for Compass brakes.
> Are you all developing tooling, and starting to produce new mounting yokes
> similar to the old Mafac Raid stock offering?
>
> regards
> ted
>
> On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 6:01:12 PM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> I wish I could answer that question. I haven't used any
>> current-production cantis that were really elegant and top-notch. I like
>> the old Mafacs for their simplicity and excellent function, but there are
>> other ideas out there, too. It seems like a product that Compass should
>> consider...
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Cycles
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 5:03 PM, Daniel Jackson <daniel.se...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Jan,
>>>
>>> What is your pick these days for the best currently available cantilever
>>> brakes?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Daniel
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 9:54:23 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Often, the cycling world seems split between those who absolutely love
>>>> discs and those who think they are just awful. The reality, as so often, is
>>>> more complex. After riding more than 20 bikes with disc brakes for
>>>> significant distances (a typical Bicycle Quarterly test goes over 300-1000
>>>> km and lasts a few weeks), I found that discs have their applications, but
>>>> they aren't my preferred brakes for just every bike. Read more about the
>>>> pros and cons of disc brakes at
>>>>
>>>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2017/01/10/disc-brake-pros-and-cons/
>>>>
>>>> Enjoy!
>>>>
>>>> Jan Heine
>>>> Editor
>>>> Bicycle Quarterly
>>>> www.bikequarterly.com
>>>>
>>> --
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>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Disc Brake Pros and Cons

2017-01-10 Thread Jan Heine
I wish I could answer that question. I haven't used any current-production
cantis that were really elegant and top-notch. I like the old Mafacs for
their simplicity and excellent function, but there are other ideas out
there, too. It seems like a product that Compass should consider...

Jan Heine
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com


On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 5:03 PM, Daniel Jackson <
daniel.seth.jack...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Jan,
>
> What is your pick these days for the best currently available cantilever
> brakes?
>
> Thanks,
> Daniel
>
> On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 9:54:23 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> Often, the cycling world seems split between those who absolutely love
>> discs and those who think they are just awful. The reality, as so often, is
>> more complex. After riding more than 20 bikes with disc brakes for
>> significant distances (a typical Bicycle Quarterly test goes over 300-1000
>> km and lasts a few weeks), I found that discs have their applications, but
>> they aren't my preferred brakes for just every bike. Read more about the
>> pros and cons of disc brakes at
>>
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2017/01/10/disc-brake-pros-and-cons/
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Editor
>> Bicycle Quarterly
>> www.bikequarterly.com
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Disc Brake Pros and Cons

2017-01-10 Thread Jan Heine
Good question. Cantis and centerpulls really need good setup. Most use an
oversized brake cable as a straddle wire, which needs to be set to conform
to the straddle cable hanger, otherwise, it takes the first lever travel
just to straighten the straddle wire. There are better ways to set up
straddle cables, see

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/04/04/straddle-cables-done-right/

The biggest issue with V-brakes was that they did have a higher mechanical
advantage (less slack meant you could set the pads closer to the rim), but
that exacerbated the issues with flexing the fork blades and seatstays
under hard braking.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 8:38 AM, George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Jan - just curious whether or not it would be worthwhile to throw
> linear-pull brakes into the mix of various rim brakes for comparison.  If
> I'm not mistaken, the main reason these "V-brakes" were developed in the
> first place was because of cable routing problems on certain MTB frames,
> especially those with dual suspensions.  However, my experience has been
> that the longer metal arms of linear-pull vs. the wire associated with
> cantilevers seem to give a more "solid" feel to the braking effort.  Any
> thoughts?
>
> On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 8:54:23 AM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> Often, the cycling world seems split between those who absolutely love
>> discs and those who think they are just awful. The reality, as so often, is
>> more complex. After riding more than 20 bikes with disc brakes for
>> significant distances (a typical Bicycle Quarterly test goes over 300-1000
>> km and lasts a few weeks), I found that discs have their applications, but
>> they aren't my preferred brakes for just every bike. Read more about the
>> pros and cons of disc brakes at
>>
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2017/01/10/disc-brake-pros-and-cons/
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Editor
>> Bicycle Quarterly
>> www.bikequarterly.com
>>
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[RBW] Disc Brake Pros and Cons

2017-01-10 Thread Jan Heine
Often, the cycling world seems split between those who absolutely love 
discs and those who think they are just awful. The reality, as so often, is 
more complex. After riding more than 20 bikes with disc brakes for 
significant distances (a typical Bicycle Quarterly test goes over 300-1000 
km and lasts a few weeks), I found that discs have their applications, but 
they aren't my preferred brakes for just every bike. Read more about the 
pros and cons of disc brakes at

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2017/01/10/disc-brake-pros-and-cons/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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[RBW] Compass Guide to

2016-12-02 Thread Jan Heine
We get a lot of questions about how the various models of SON generator 
hubs are different, and which is best for a certain application. So I wrote 
a short guide to the most commonly used SON hubs:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/12/02/guide-to-generator-hubs/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Quarterly charity drive

2016-10-31 Thread Jan Heine
We get quite a few requests for digital editions, and I understand the 
appeal of that format.

The problem with different formats for Bicycle Quarterly is simple: We are 
too small to offer multiple platforms. So we have to decide on a single 
platform, which accrues the economies of scale that make it possible to put 
out a high-quality magazine.

If we split the print run between 50% print and 50% digital, our costs will 
be 175% of what they are if we focus on one format. Digital is actually 
more expensive than print, because we cannot handle the files and 
distribution ourselves – as we do with the print copies. Simply mailing you 
a pdf wouldn't work - because of the many photos, the print files are huge 
(1000+ MB).

We decided to focus on print because the beauty of Bicycle Quarterly's 
photos just can't come across in digital formats. 

The longevity of print also is important. Much of BQ's research really has 
changed the bike industry – whether it's the findings that wide tires at 
lower pressures can roll as fast as narrow ones, even on smooth roads, or 
our findings that suspension losses are very important in slowing you down. 
It would be sad if all that was lost, because it was available only in the 
equivalent of a floppy disc. We often refer to old magazines about the 
history of cyclotouring. The paper may have yellowed a bit, but the 
information is still there, whether it's the wonderful drawings of Daniel 
Rebour or the results of the amazing Technical Trials...

Thank you for understanding - and continuing to enjoy Bicycle Quarterly!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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[RBW] Bicycle Quarterly charity drive

2016-10-31 Thread Jan Heine
If you have been thinking about subscribing to Bicycle Quarterly or buying 
back issues, now is a good time – and do a good deed at the same time. For 
the next 24 hours, Bicycle Quarterly will donate 50% of all subscription 
and back issue sales to Doctors Without Borders. More details on the blog at

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/10/31/bicycle-quarterly-charity-drive-3/

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle, WA, USA
www.bikequarterly.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rat Trap Pass: reviews? impressions? poetic waxings?

2016-08-22 Thread Jan Heine
That is interesting stuff, but I think the idea that wider tires are a 
disadvantage on smooth roads is a bit outdated. I wonder when this video 
was recorded.

You might also be interested in a podcast that featured Josh Poertner, 
formerly of Zipp (now of Silca), James Huang and me, talking about the 
latest research. I was surprised that the guys at Zipp came to the same 
conclusions as we did at Bicycle Quarterly, only their research was top 
secret and only available to their sponsored riders! You can listen to the 
discussion here:

http://cyclingtips.com/2016/08/cyclingtips-podcast-episode-9-rethinking-road-bike-tire-sizes-and-pressures/

Jan Heine
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 8:31:22 AM UTC+9, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> Listen to what Keith Bontrager says about wide tires.  Not directed at you 
> Jan.  It is at 2:35.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpxUcfZhxLk=TL7aUwq5E8PH4yMjA4MjAxNg
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 22, 2016 at 5:26 PM, Jan Heine <hei...@earthlink.net 
> > wrote:
>
>> The Rat Trap Pass use the same casings, same tread pattern, and same 
>> tread thickness as the other tires in the Compass line. We did a lot of 
>> testing with prototypes to make sure that you could actually use such a 
>> supple casing on such a wide tire – nobody had ever done that before.
>>
>> As to tread wear, the wider the tire, the more rubber touches the road. 
>> So the wear is spread over a larger surface, and the tire lasts longer. 
>> It's that simple. Our tires have a somewhat thicker tread than event tires 
>> like the Soma Grand Randonneur or the Pari-Motos. Again, we did a lot of 
>> testing to see how thick we could make the tread rubber without slowing 
>> down the tire significantly, so we could optimize speed and longevity.
>>
>> I get about 5000 miles out of a set of Babyshoe Pass tires before I 
>> retire them. When I cut them apart to check the wear, I am always surprised 
>> how much tread is left – I probably could have ridden them another 1-2000 
>> miles. I haven't yet worn out a set of Rat Trap Pass, so I cannot comment 
>> on how much longer they last.
>>
>> Of course, you'll find tires that last longer (harder rubber that doesn't 
>> grip well, thicker tread that rolls slowly), but for a high-performance 
>> tire, I am very happy with the mileages we and others get on these tires.
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Cycles
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
>> On Sunday, August 21, 2016 at 1:47:26 AM UTC+9, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>>  
>>
>>> Maybe there is something about the RTP that makes them different from 
>>> the other tires in the lineup? 
>>>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rat Trap Pass: reviews? impressions? poetic waxings?

2016-08-22 Thread Jan Heine
The Rat Trap Pass use the same casings, same tread pattern, and same tread 
thickness as the other tires in the Compass line. We did a lot of testing 
with prototypes to make sure that you could actually use such a supple 
casing on such a wide tire – nobody had ever done that before.

As to tread wear, the wider the tire, the more rubber touches the road. So 
the wear is spread over a larger surface, and the tire lasts longer. It's 
that simple. Our tires have a somewhat thicker tread than event tires like 
the Soma Grand Randonneur or the Pari-Motos. Again, we did a lot of testing 
to see how thick we could make the tread rubber without slowing down the 
tire significantly, so we could optimize speed and longevity.

I get about 5000 miles out of a set of Babyshoe Pass tires before I retire 
them. When I cut them apart to check the wear, I am always surprised how 
much tread is left – I probably could have ridden them another 1-2000 
miles. I haven't yet worn out a set of Rat Trap Pass, so I cannot comment 
on how much longer they last.

Of course, you'll find tires that last longer (harder rubber that doesn't 
grip well, thicker tread that rolls slowly), but for a high-performance 
tire, I am very happy with the mileages we and others get on these tires.

Jan Heine
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

On Sunday, August 21, 2016 at 1:47:26 AM UTC+9, Mark in Beacon wrote:
 

> Maybe there is something about the RTP that makes them different from the 
> other tires in the lineup? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Rat Trap Pass: reviews? impressions? poetic waxings?

2016-08-22 Thread Jan Heine
It's not clear to me why a tire would have to grip worse in the rain to be 
faster. Both grip and speed are improved with softer rubber – ask any 
skateboarder about this! So a tire that grips better in the rain also will 
be faster.

When you compare tread patterns, the Pasela is basically a slick tire. 
Those little grooves don't do anything – Panaracer is very honest about 
them being a "design feature". The Compass tread has many ribs that 
interlock with the road surface, so it actually grips a lot better in the 
wet.

Most of all, the Paselas are made by the same company as the Compass tires 
- Panaracer. The biggest difference is in the casing – the tread material 
is similar, albeit a bit grippier on the high-end tires.

As you pointed out, we do ride in Seattle. It rains here. We love to 
descend fast. We wouldn't accept a tire that didn't grip well in the rain. 
Here is a photo of the "BQ Team during a cold and rainy descent. Sorry for 
the poor photo quality – it was dark and cold and rainy on the January day 
when it was taken.

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qdLcIXbXEiQ/V7treErYA6I/CNE/b-pOF0bDpNkPklIc5VeNlrvsJJ4HZxBdACLcB/s1600/tigerdown.jpg>

I am sorry that you and your friend crashed on the Rat Trap Pass tires. I 
think you just encountered a really slick spot, and you probably would have 
crashed on any tire.

Jan Heine
Compass Cycles
www.compasscycle.com

On Sunday, August 21, 2016 at 12:53:31 AM UTC+9, Gravel & Grind Espresso + 
Bikes wrote:
>
> Paselas have way more grip, in my experience.  Paselas are also slower 
> feeling, and as the saying goes, there's no free lunch.  Gotta give up 
> something.  
>

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[RBW] Re: The "Friend" – a sweet cyclotouring bike

2016-06-22 Thread Jan Heine
Racks mounted to the sides of the fork crown were common on the bikes of 
the French constructeurs. As you say, it's a logical way, as it attaches to 
the strongest part of the fork.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

On Tuesday, June 21, 2016 at 6:16:03 PM UTC-7, JohnS wrote:
>
> Thank you Jan for sharing, that's a great looking bike. I really liked the 
> front rack's top mounting points, there a two on either side of the fork 
> crown. It allows for an open area for the canti yoke cable, no 
> interference, nothing in the way. I'm sure that rack is very stable. I 
> don't think I've seen a front rack mounting points like that before. The 
> closest being top of crown mounts.
>
> JohnS
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 21, 2016 at 11:27:20 AM UTC-4, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> In Japan, I saw a bike that, according to my friends, "was every boy's 
>> dream". I think it still would be a dream today, and not just for boys...
>>
>>
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/06/21/the-friend-an-affordable-touring-bike/
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Editor
>> Bicycle Quarterly
>> www.bikequarterly.com
>>
>

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[RBW] The "Friend" – a sweet cyclotouring bike

2016-06-21 Thread Jan Heine
In Japan, I saw a bike that, according to my friends, "was every boy's 
dream". I think it still would be a dream today, and not just for boys...

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/06/21/the-friend-an-affordable-touring-bike/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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[RBW] Re: Finding fun in un-un-racing

2016-06-20 Thread Jan Heine
Good job! A career change to mountain bike pro may be in order! Or more 
likely, it's surprising what a lifetime of cycling will give you in skills.

I think what people mostly are reacting to when they identify as 
"Un-Racers" are the attitudes of racers (or more often, wannabe racers), 
rather than the fact that pushing yourself a bit can be fun. When we are 
returning from a long trip in the mountains with panniers on our bikes, and 
every "racer" on the (flat) bike trail picks us as a target, passing us, 
and then slowing down exhausted, it gets tiring. 

But that doesn't mean that riding a performance bike isn't fun, and the 
better the bike performs, the more fun it can be. In fact, I sometimes give 
in to the temptation and up the pace myself, drop the wannabe racers, and 
then keep up the pace, if only to get home sooner. Feeling the bike in sync 
with my pedal strokes and my entire body working hard is fun.

The true high-level racers I've known are usually very pleasant. They don't 
need to prove to everybody how fast they are – if you want to race, line up 
at the start line! It's the non-racers who treat every commute as a 
competition, and every guy (or even better, woman) on a heavily loaded bike 
as an opportunity.

It's easy to confound "anti-attitude" with "anti-performance", but I think 
that is a mistake. Cycling is fun in part because of its speed. Otherwise, 
we could be walking. That doesn't mean that we should prioritize speed over 
everything else – comfort and fun are more important. But when the gains 
come without penalties, such as wide supple tires – faster, more 
comfortable and more puncture-resistant – or frames that get in sync with 
your pedal strokes ("planing") – lighter, more fun at any power output – 
then it makes sense to embrace them.

Fortunately, the image of a "performance bike" is changing. No longer is it 
a harsh-riding machine with skinny tires pumped to 100 psi or more. With 
the new "Gravel" and "Allroad" bikes, the industry finally is espousing 
what this group has been about all along.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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[RBW] Re: Suspension Losses - Now Confirmed by Other Research

2016-06-15 Thread Jan Heine
You are right, there are many potential variables. We are lucky to have two 
riders who weight the same, have the same height and the same power output: 
Mark and me. So if we ride next to each other on identical bikes, we ride 
at exactly the same speed. If the bikes are different, and one is faster, 
then we switch bikes. If the same bike still is faster, then it's faster. 
If the other bike now is faster, then one of us is having a bad day.

This technique factors in wind, temperature, fatigue, etc., since it's the 
same for both bikes and riders. More on the Rando bike vs. Ti study is here:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/02/19/laws-of-physics/

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 5:19:23 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Thanks Jan,
>
> Did you test the Rando vs. Ti bikes by powering the bikes with riders? I 
> know some of your studies have used small samples with human riders 
> powering the vehicles.
>
> Is it possible that a study involving a human rider powering the bike will 
> be reliable and valid in light of the fact that the state of the engine 
> changes moment by moment? I am by no means a scientist, so forgive my 
> ignorance. Sometimes when I read about the studies all these other ideas 
> pop up in my mind to explain away the findings and I don't know if they 
> matter. I don't know if the ideas would really have any type of meaningful 
> effect on the results.
>
> Also all the other extraneous factors like the fact that the bikes weren't 
> ridden exactly on the same line, subjected to different air movement 
> patterns, minor grade changes in the different lines, different 
> components/frames, etc.
>
> I think it is really difficult to test bike performance because there are 
> so many variables. And while one may be explained away as noise in the 
> data, all the elements, taken as a whole must have a profound effect on the 
> movement of the bikes.
>
> Is this true or is it not so difficult to get reliable data in bike tests?
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Suspension Losses - Now Confirmed by Other Research

2016-06-14 Thread Jan Heine
You bring up good points.

1. Higher mass will slow you down climbing, but the question is how much. 
Realistically, the differences are very small. We tested a 650B randonneur 
bike with 42 mm tires against a titanium road bike with 25s. Both were 
excellent bikes, and their speed was the same. Clearly, the difference in 
weight got lost among other, more important factors.

2. Yes, sidewall deformation is an issue - that is the start of the 
sidewall collapse under high cornering loads. That is why you need to run 
slightly higher pressures with supple tires. Even at those higher 
pressures, the supple tires are much faster and more comfortable.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

On Tuesday, June 14, 2016 at 2:33:20 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> 1. What does the higher mass do in regards to climbing? Help or hinder?
>
> I wonder at what point the mass is nullified by hysteresis, s-losses, and 
> planing, supple tires, etc.? One could do alot of mixed variables tests to 
> see how it all shakes out.
>
> 2. Also, what about tire sidewall deformation under the force of the rim 
> turning?
>
> Wouldn't a supple tire's sidewalls deform more, lagging behind the rim to 
> a point, though the bead stays in place, resulting in slower response and 
> drag? 
>
>

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[RBW] Suspension Losses - Now Confirmed by Other Research

2016-06-14 Thread Jan Heine
In science, it's important that results are replicable - this means that 
anybody doing the same experiment must get the same results. I was excited 
to learn that recently, Joshua Poertner (formerly of Zipp, now of Silca) 
has replicated our results on tire pressure: Higher tire pressures don't 
make you faster on smooth pavement, and definitely are slower on rough 
surfaces. He apparently used the same rumble strip method as we did when we 
first quantified suspension losses. 

More about this is here:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/06/14/suspension-losses-confirmed/

It's exciting that what used to be highly controversial now is entering the 
mainstream. And I want to thank the listmembers who were open to these 
ideas long before anybody else. 

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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[RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

2016-04-28 Thread Jan Heine
The old cup-and-cone bottom brackets were great when I was a student with 
more time than money. Back then, I enjoyed working on bottom brackets. But 
it never made sense from a monetary perspective. Even at $ 7 an hour, 
overhauling my BB twice a year was $ 14 in time alone. If the BB lasts 10 
years, I've spent $ 140 of my time. And the cup-and-cone BB wasn't cheap - 
I recall a Campy BB costing (back then) $ 80. In today's dollars, that 
would be more than an SKF BB.

These days, I am terribly busy, and I prefer riding my bike over working on 
it. That is why money spent on components that I never have to think about 
is money well spent. All too often does it happen on Bicycle Quarterly test 
bikes that the night before a big ride, I discover a problem and have to 
scramble to fix it. And these are new bikes!

As to BB weight, there isn't much you can do. Yes, you can replace the 
spindle with titanium, but remember that titanium is much less strong than 
steel. And when BB spindles were originally designed, the engineers who 
designed them weren't stupid. They made them as big as they need to be, 
using very strong CrMo steel. Even a stainless spindle will be less strong. 
Replacing a CrMo part with an identically dimensioned titanium part invites 
trouble.

You could design a BB with a titanium spindle, but you'd have to start from 
scratch. You'd make the bottom bracket shell of the bike bigger to make 
room for the bigger spindle. You'd make the crank bigger, too, so the 
bigger spindle fits. The end result probably would be heavier than what you 
started with.

There is a way around this, by using a lighter material for the cranks, 
too. That is why carbon cranks make sense only with modern BBs and vice 
versa. (The original Campy carbon cranks with a square taper were heavier 
than our René Herse aluminum cranks!) The carbon cranks actually aren't 
lighter than aluminum ones, but the BB is lighter, so overall, you save 
weight. However, much of the savings come from the tiny bearings, which you 
need to replace annually on most models.

I am a lightweight rider, and I don't tend to break components, so I 
sometimes am tempted by a titanium spindle. Then I think of the 
consequences if it breaks (almost certain to crash), and I realize that 
it's not worth the risk. 

It's interesting to note that none of the titanium BBs are made by 
companies who have their components fatigue-tested to the universally 
accepted industry standards.

Disclosure: Compass Bicycles Ltd. sell SKF bottom brackets.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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Re: [RBW] Richard Sachs on the original Riv lugs

2016-04-25 Thread Jan Heine
To me, still one of the prettiest lug design ever. It's fancy and playful, 
yet tasteful.

As to timeline, all the early Rivendells used them. Mine was built in early 
1999, and was one of the first to use different lugs, with a mix of windows 
and curls.
Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com


On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 8:15:37 AM UTC+9, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> I think the road standards...all-rounders and expeditions are plainer., 
> still nice but not RS.were long-lows even around then?
>
> On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 5:22:07 PM UTC-5, WETH wrote:
>>
>> This is very interesting.  Which frames were built (are still) with these 
>> lugs? ( I have a Riv Road Stnd that appears to have these.)
>
>

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[RBW] Videos: Rinko and Gravel Racing

2016-04-18 Thread Jan Heine
With all the recent interest in Rinko, Theo from Compass took a video of 
Hahn packing his bike for Rinko.

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/04/17/weekend-rides-on-film-gravel-racing-and-rinko/

It's one of two videos from last weekend's rides. The other shows a clip 
from the Rasputitsa gravel race in Vermont, where Matt Surch placed second 
on Compass Bon Jon 700C x 35 mm tires.

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Gravel Riding - Interview

2016-04-11 Thread Jan Heine
I recently had the opportunity to interview Matt Surch, who won the 
season-opening Steaming Nostril gravel race in Ottawa, CA. He talks about 
technique, equipment and training for gravel riding and racing. It's a 
fascinating read, and some good photos, too. (Disclosure: He won on Compass 
Bon Jon Pass tires, but just like the pros with their FMB tires for 
Paris-Roubaix, he wasn't sponsored, but rode tires he bought because he 
considered them the best choice.)

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/04/11/gravel-racing-on-compass-tires/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

2016-04-08 Thread Jan Heine
Tim, sorry to hear that your Compass brakes are squealing so much. We are 
trying to figure out why they are totally silent on most bikes after a 
short break-in, but squeal persistently on a very small number of bikes. We 
have a few hypotheses that we are testing. It's a bit hard, since none of 
our bikes squeal - but we live in rainy Seattle. And we never use our rear 
brakes except when we encounter very slick roads. You can read about why 
using the rear brake doesn't help slowing down here 
<https://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/08/23/how-to-brake-on-a-bicycle/>. 
(https://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/08/23/how-to-brake-on-a-bicycle/)

So my question: Is it the front or the rear that is squealing?

My first remedy would be as suggested by another reader: Get the rims wet, 
and then brake very hard. Don't hesitate - if you have decent tires, apply 
the front brake very hard. Of course, brace yourself as described in the 
article above. It's a good skill to practice, and in 99% of the cases, 
it'll quieten your front brake totally.

If that doesn't help, I second Will's suggestion to file the washers. That 
way, you'll get a permanent solution, as the toe-in will remain set even 
after changing pads. So you won't have to fiddle with it ever again. If you 
mess up, the washers are available and don't cost much.

You can also file the pads, but the drawback is that you'll have to do it 
again every time you change the brake pads. And you have to remove more 
material - the washers just need very little removed to get a toe-in of 
about 1 mm at the front of the pad (i.e., the rear of the pad should be 1 
mm clear of the rim). If you file too much, and get up to 4 mm, it's not a 
problem. But filing the pads also is an option.

One good thing about centerpulls compared to cantis is that pad wear 
doesn't bring back the squeal, as the pads wear parallel to the rim. Cantis 
see a lot of fork blade twist, and so their pads lose their toe-in as they 
wear.

Brake squeal is very annoying - I recall a number of *Bicycle Quarterly* 
test bikes with various Paul brakes that had persistent squeal. However, 
their squeal has a higher pitch, so it's not quite as annoying... I hope 
you'll resolve the issue soon. If not, don't hesitate to contact me, and 
we'll work with you on this. I know that your bike can be silent, and that 
is how it should be!

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

On Wednesday, April 6, 2016 at 8:27:47 AM UTC+9, Tim wrote:
>
> Not to hijack the thread but...I just got my custom MAP with Compass 
> centerpulls and I have a question. Will the front break stop squealing like 
> a banshee after they break in a bit?!?!? I'm using them with HED Belgium 
> 650b rims (brand new). I've only been riding it about a week. Probably 
> around 100 miles. With light pressure there is no noise but with moderate 
> to hard pressure they squeal so loud that they turn heads. It's been like 
> that from the get go. It really kind of sucks. Any ideas?

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Re: [RBW] Re: On tire supple-itude

2016-03-29 Thread Jan Heine
Interesting tread... and I am glad so many listmembers enjoy their Compass 
tires as much as we do. (We developed them for our own bikes, after all.)

I'd like to clarify a few things about the TPI (threads per inch) of the 
Compass tires. The Extralight models actually use the thinnest casing 
fibers that Panaracer makes. If packed tightly and measured the "Italian 
way", these would result in 360 TPI casings. However, by using the same 
thin fibers, but weaving them a bit looser, you get an even suppler casing, 
but of course, the TPI is lower. More on the subject is here:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/01/05/tpi-and-tire-performance/

There is a lot that goes into making supple tires, and like so many things, 
it's hard to put that into a single number. It's like "How do you make a 
great-riding frame?" In the end, you go by experience - if many experienced 
riders tell you that a certain frame is great, it probably is. The same 
applies to tires.

As a final note, if you want to compare the performance of tires, you have 
to do it on the same bike. With different bikes, small things like 
aerodynamics (if your stem is just 20 mm lower, your wind resistance is 
about 5% lower) or the frame flex characteristics of the frame (what we 
call "planing") will affect the speeds you can achieve on the road, so even 
if your measurements are accurate (you need a lot of repeats to reduce the 
noise in the data), you may not be measuring tire performance. That said, 
the Challenge tires mentioned by one poster are very nice, too, and in our 
performance testing, were about equal to the standard Grand Bois/Compass 
casings.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] How to Determine the "Correct" Tire Pressure?

2016-03-09 Thread Jan Heine
One of the most common questions I get asked is what tire pressure is best 
for performance and comfort. After years of studying tire performance, the 
amazing answer is that tire pressure doesn't matter much... I wrote a piece 
on why that is the case, and what it means for every rider as they set up 
their bikes:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/03/09/tire-pressure-take-home/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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[RBW] How forged cranks are made

2016-02-25 Thread Jan Heine
A photo essay along the lines of the old Bridgestone catalogues where Grant 
explained how things were made: The steps in forging our Compass cranks and 
what is involved.

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/rene-herse-cranks-177-and-165-mm/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Re: Metal fender shaping/cutting advice

2016-02-19 Thread Jan Heine
Just a quick reminder about copyright: If you xerox an article and give it 
to a friend, it's probably fine under "fair use". But scanning and posting 
online would be the equivalent of publishing copyrighted work without 
permission, which is definitely illegal.

Perhaps you'll understand that *Bicycle Quarterly* relies on people 
subscribing and buying back issues. If the contents were pirated and made 
widely available, the magazine simply wouldn't exist. It's not like we are 
getting rich putting out a magazine that champions small builders (who 
don't have money to advertise) and which is supported to 90% by subscribers.

(Compass pays *BQ* for the articles it includes with the fenders, as a 
service to customers to help them install them correctly.)

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 2:07:52 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Can anyone scan or photo and post the BQ article on the details of fender 
> mounting, particularly the pages where Jan describes making forms with 
> which to shape fenders to fit around stays and fork legs?
>
> Many thanks, Patrick Moore, who gave away his BQ back issues to friends.
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Compass cycling knickers back in stock

2016-02-17 Thread Jan Heine
The old model is on sale, and some sizes are sold out.

The new production run is in stock in all sizes:

https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/compass-knickers-2016/

Thanks,

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 7:21:59 PM UTC-8, iamkeith wrote:
>
> All I see are XS.  Did I miss this already?!  Crap.
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 5:07:24 PM UTC-7, Neil wrote:
>>
>> Looks like all sizes of the Compass Bicycles riding knickers are back in 
>> stock, in gray (no more khaki, yay!). Supposedly some modest improvements 
>> over the last version. Mine should arrive tomorrow, just in time for the 
>> weekend! It's been a lovely two weeks of dry weather here in Nor Cal, 
>> hoping to get out for a good ride this weekend.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Neil
>>
>

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[RBW] Tokyo Handmade Bicycle Show Report

2016-02-14 Thread Jan Heine
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/14/tokyo-hand-made-bicycle-show/

Lots of neat bikes from Toei, Cherubim, Watanabe, C. S. Hirose and others. 
Where else do you see a maker with his own custom-made derailleurs? And the 
visitor  bike parking area was amazing, too: full of beautiful handbuilt 
bikes...

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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[RBW] Re: Why slick tires don't stick well

2016-01-19 Thread Jan Heine
Thanks for posting your experience. I was mostly referring to behavior on 
pavement, but it's conceivable that the negative tread would help in mud. 
However, it seems to me that the grooves would clog up with mud pretty 
quickly. We should research this further, especially if we ever plan to 
offer a special mud tire.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 4:06:38 AM UTC+9, Ryan Ray wrote:
>
>
>>- *“Negative” treads*, that just cut grooves into the tire, 
>>apparently are inspired by car tires, where they help prevent 
>> hydroplaning. 
>>But even very wide bicycle tires are too narrow for hydroplaning (and our 
>>speeds are too low, too). Perhaps a fatbike with slick tires at 50 mph 
>>could hydroplane…
>>
>> I have not done the research so my account is personal. It sounds like 
> you haven't done research on this yet either though?
>
>
> I just switched from the folding version of the fatty rumpkins (one of the 
> slowest, most long lasting tires you can buy at 650x42) to a pair of worn 
> in BSPs.
>
> Switching from one of the harder, more durable, slower tires you can buy 
> to a pair of worn in BSPs provided a drastic comparison. My heavy steel 
> bike feels like it's gliding. Climbing and descents on roads both seem 
> faster and are more fun either way.
>
> The BSPs are essentially useless in mud or wet sloppy gravel however. The 
> rumpkins not only felt better going over tough roots, but they held far 
> better traction than the BSPs. Climbing in and out of the saddle were 
> really no problem with the rumpkins over the same course.
>
> Perhaps a negative tread pattern like the rumpkins does have 
> some benefits other than being inspired by car tires?
>
> Some possible advantages:
>
> Allows for more long lasting tread on longer tours, but the the cutouts 
> allow the thicker tread to be more flexible and slightly lighter 
> (drillium rubber!).
>
> Allows for a non-trivial amount of grip in muddy, loose conditions without 
> providing a rough road ride or negatively impacting cornering on roads in 
> the way knobs would.
>
>
> The only experiment I can think of would be to ride up the same muddy hill 
> on the same day in the same gear with several sets of tires a 
> statistically relevant number of times while timing the rides and counting 
> slippages. Expensive and time consuming.
>
> Either way I'm probably now a BSP lifelong customer even if  I switch them 
> out for certain rides.
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 6:19:06 AM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> Sometimes, it seems that tire tread is just about "design", but there 
>> actually are real reasons why some tires stick better than others, 
>> especially in the wet...
>>
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/01/05/why-slick-tires-dont-stick-well/
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using SunXCD Exceed cranks?

2016-01-07 Thread Jan Heine
The photo shows that the crank seated fairly deeply. It was well within the 
range of what's acceptable. Much deeper, and you run the risk of bottoming 
out the crank bolt. The taper has a very shallow angle, so even small 
variations in the taper cause big differences in how deep the crank seats. 
Since there are tolerances in the dimensions of both BB and crank, you need 
some margin for these tolerances. If you designed the system that the BB 
spindle comes within 1 mm of the end of the crank, you'd get 10% where the 
spindle is a tad small or the crank taper a tad large, and the spindle 
would extend beyond the  edge of the crank. The crank bolt would bottom 
out, and you couldn't tighten the crank properly.

It's hard to speculate about the reason for the failure. It's not a place 
where the crank gets stressed in use, only when mounting. It could be that 
the crank was tightened repeatedly by a previous owner, and thus pulled 
further and further onto the spindle, until it "burst". (Repeated 
tightening is not recommended - install the crank and tighten it once 50 
miles later. Then leave it alone. After 2 years or so, take it off, inspect 
it and reinstall it. But don't just tighten it every few months or so.) 
Another possible explanation is a flaw in the forging.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 11:57:38 AM UTC+9, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I think Peter's dead on, it may have not seated deeply enough, and I maybe 
> contact stresses were too high. 
>
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1207650.jpg>
>
> or it may have just been seated too many times on too many tapers.  I 
> didn't know the age of it, it was a used ebay purchase.
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using SunXCD Exceed cranks?

2016-01-07 Thread Jan Heine
Ron,

I wasn't worried about the SKF BB's reputation, but just trying to figure 
out what could have happened to your poor crank. (I used to run a bunch of 
second-hand TAs without problems, but I switched to a René Herse on my 
Urban Bike as a precaution.) Interestingly, with the old TA crank tapers 
being JIS, that actually opens up a much larger range of suitable BBs.

The two tapers (JIS and ISO) are so close that you can get away with 
substituting JIS for ISO. We have several customers who run old Campagnolo 
Nuovo Record cranks (close to ISO taper) on JIS SKF bottom brackets. They 
use a 113 mm spindle instead of the 114.5, and that difference gives them 
the correct chainline (with a spacer to get the offset that the old Campy 
cranks required). The spindle penetrates 0.75 mm less into the crank, but 
that hasn't been a problem in practice. (Of course, we cannot officially 
recommend this.)

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 11:11:33 AM UTC+9, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> no worries Jan.  It was clearly fatigue cracking that started at the 
> inside corners of the taper in the crank arm.  [...]I've bought 3 SKF BB 
> from you, and would be the last person to badmouth them, so don't take this 
> next observation wrong.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Why slick tires don't stick well

2016-01-06 Thread Jan Heine
As long as the casing isn't fraying, your tires should be fine to ride. 
They won't just rip in half and explode. Deterioration due to UV or ozone 
is easy to see - look at an abandoned bike somewhere, and you'll see the 
"dry rot" on the tires.

Most black tires use more rubber on the sidewalls, which does protect the 
casing, but it also makes them less supple. You could get the same effect 
with brown casings. Functionally, there is no difference between the 
different colors - it's just dye.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using SunXCD Exceed cranks?

2016-01-06 Thread Jan Heine
It's a common misunderstanding that TA cranks use ISO threads, when in fact 
at least the older ones are JIS. The reason is simple: The Japanese copied 
the Stronglight/Herse/TA taper and then made it their JIS standard. So the 
JIS taper could also be called "French taper".

The ISO standard is based on Campy's cranks, which also are a copy of 
Stronglight/Herse, but they got it slightly "wrong" (or at least 
different), which is why the ISO standard is slightly different. (Most 
people seem to assume that ISO is European and JIS Japanese, so TA and 
others should be ISO. Not so.)

The two tapers are so similar that the tolerances actually overlap. I have 
seen Campy spindles that were closer to JIS than to ISO... It's similar 
with pedal threads, where metric and BSC are so similar that TA used to 
offer just one set of pedals for both threads.

So back to the original question, using a JIS spindle for a TA "Pro 5 vis" 
crank should not cause any problems. More likely than not, it is the 
correct spindle for this crank.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 10:38:11 AM UTC+9, Peter Adler wrote:
>
> Since the TA Pro V was an ISO crank (in all its generations, AFAIK)
>

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[RBW] Why slick tires don't stick well

2016-01-05 Thread Jan Heine
Sometimes, it seems that tire tread is just about "design", but there 
actually are real reasons why some tires stick better than others, 
especially in the wet...

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/01/05/why-slick-tires-dont-stick-well/

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Re: Rinko and how it works

2015-12-19 Thread Jan Heine
Thank you, Takashi. I had a great sensei (teacher) - Natsuko Hirose, who 
was featured in the first Rinko article in BQ, packs her bike in 12 
minutes, without any noise from dropped wrenches. At the end, her hands are 
clean enough to go and eat dinner... A number of cyclotouring trips with 
her as part of the group has given me something to aspire to.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 1:26:47 PM UTC+1, Takashi wrote:
>
> Very elegantly packed Jan!
> You are a better packer than most Japanese cyclotourists!
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Rinko and how it works

2015-12-17 Thread Jan Heine
There has been a lot of discussion lately of Rinko, so this blog post 
explaining the different components used to make a Rinko bike (Hint: there 
are very few!) may be of interest:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/12/17/rinko-parts-useful-not-only-for-train-travel/

<https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/12/17/rinko-parts-useful-not-only-for-train-travel/>
I 
<https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/12/17/rinko-parts-useful-not-only-for-train-travel/>
 suspect 
many Rivendell frames already have everything you need to make them 
Rinko-compatible - slotted cable guides and such...

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Re: "adequate" fender clearance

2015-12-13 Thread Jan Heine
Interesting discussion. Just to clarify, I really do like to see 20 mm of 
"air" between the top of the tire and the fender. Here is a photo:

https://janheine.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/compass_babyshoe.jpg

Anything less risks trouble when your tires pick up small rocks and drag 
them through the fender. Even on gravel roads, you shouldn't get the 
"scrtchh" of a rock rolling between tire and fender more than once every 
500 miles... You can ride a bike with less clearance, but it's a little 
risky for my taste. I know too many people who've fallen on their faces 
when fenders collapsed and jammed the front wheel.

There really is no reason to have less clearance on a custom bike. The 
fender lines on the bike shown in the photo above look great, see

https://janheine.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/jhherse_full.jpg

There really is no reason to mount the fenders closer to the tires, except 
that when you remove the fenders, the clearances may look excessively 
large. (Just like my car, my bike always carries fenders, so that isn't an 
issue for me.)

Of course, you don't need (and won't get) 20 mm all around the tire, 
because your fender doesn't need (and cannot) to be 40 mm wider than your 
tire! You won't drag debris along the sides of the tire, so less clearance 
there is fine. You just need enough so that if your fender's position moves 
a bit after you lean your bike against a wall or something like that, the 
tire doesn't rub on the fender. 10 mm probably is fine there.

The chainstays and fork blades will encroach a little further into your 
clearance. It's fine to indent the fenders there - the fenders are firmly 
supported, so they won't budge. In those places, you just need enough that 
frame flex, wheel flex or a slightly out-of-true wheel won't cause the tire 
to rub on the fender. I'd say 5 mm is OK, 8 is better.

Of course, you can ride bikes with much less clearance. I have done so for 
many years. The fenders may rub a bit when you rise out of the saddle, and 
you have to hope for the best when riding over gravel, but most of the 
time, it's fine. 

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com


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[RBW] Bicycle Quarterly flip book

2015-12-01 Thread Jan Heine
We put together an online *Bicycle Quarterly* flip book with 33 pages of 
sample articles. These include an excerpt of our tire tests, a report from 
a gravel Super Randonnée 600, and Raymond Henry's article about women in 
mid-century French randonneuring. Check it out at

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/12/01/bicycle-quarterly-flip-book/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly..com

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[RBW] Re: Compass Knickers

2015-10-06 Thread Jan Heine
I don't think any of the "domestic" knickers are quite so sophisticated in 
their cut, and quite as performance-oriented. It's like many of the 
mainstream "classic" bikes, which go for the look of a classic, but not 
necessarily get the performance right. 

The Compass knickers really are incredibly light, and they really do 
disappear when you ride. I rode 2/3 of PBP this year without them and 1/3 
with them, and there was no difference in speed or feel. I can't say that 
about other knickers, which often work remarkably well, but I am always 
aware that I am wearing them.

Or to put it another way, these are the only knickers I'd ever do hill 
intervals in. Not that you should do hill intervals, but basically, these 
are intended for riders who don't want to compromise performance, but who 
don't like the look of tight-fitting lycra.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 2:29:11 PM UTC+9, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> I was wondering how Japanese knickers differ from the american ones like 
> swrve, chrome, betabrand, etc.  Umm yeah don't google "japanese knickers" 
> at work.  But Japanese cycling knickers didn't turn up anything either.
> On Monday, October 5, 2015 at 9:17:49 PM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> The whole idea of knickers is to have pants that look good, but otherwise 
>> disappear when you ride. Ours are based on Japanese cyclotouring and hiking 
>> knickers, which are quite sophisticated, with articulated knees and hidden 
>> drawcords at the leg cuffs. This makes them incredibly complex to sew, 
>> which explains the price. If we priced them like most clothing companies 
>> price clothing, they'd be unaffordable...
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Bicycles
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Compass Knickers

2015-10-05 Thread Jan Heine
The fit of the knickers certainly isn't form-fitting - that would defeat 
the purpose. We clarified the language - what we meant to say is that if 
you wear padded shorts underneath these, you should definitely order one 
size larger than you would for your normal pants.

The whole idea of knickers is to have pants that look good, but otherwise 
disappear when you ride. Ours are based on Japanese cyclotouring and hiking 
knickers, which are quite sophisticated, with articulated knees and hidden 
drawcords at the leg cuffs. This makes them incredibly complex to sew, 
which explains the price. If we priced them like most clothing companies 
price clothing, they'd be unaffordable...

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Re: Tested 6 pairs of 700c (29in) tires - results and impressions

2015-09-06 Thread Jan Heine
Takashi,

First of all, I apologize for butchering your name...

Please do report on further testing you do, but I totally understand that 
testing is a tedious job. I can tell you when we did the rumble strip test, 
and I had to ride 15 miles on rumble strips over the course of a morning, I 
was glad to just go for a spin the following day on comparatively smooth 
roads.

We'll consider the Furious Fred and Thunder Burts when we next test tires 
on the track with a power meter under carefully controlled conditions. 
Thank you for the suggestion.

Best,

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

On Sunday, September 6, 2015 at 1:31:05 PM UTC+2, Takashi wrote:
>
> Thank you Jan.
> I have enjoyed reading your articles in blog and BQ, and they inspired me 
> to do the test.
> As an amateur cyclist, my time to ride bike is limited, so I cannot say 
> for sure how many times I will ride the same route.
> I like to visit places I have never seen, rather than riding same route 
> over and over.
> (I'm pretty sure that most people in this group understand this 
> inclination)
> Still, I am interested in performances of tires myself, so when I do 
> further test, I will post about it.
>
> I have read in your blog (comment section maybe) that you consider Furious 
> Fred and Thunder Burt as too much off-road-oriented, but I think they were 
> very smooth and efficient on pavement.
> So I am expecting to read reviews of those tires in future issues of BQ.
>
> Takashi
>
>
> 2015年9月5日土曜日 15時15分36秒 UTC+9 Jan Heine:
>>
>> Takahashi,
>>
>> That is an interesting comparison. Like you, I am surprised that our 
>> Barlow Pass tires weren't super-fast. At first, I thought about why this 
>> could be... until I realized that you did only one run with each tire. You 
>> mention that yours isn't a detailed study, and you are right. It would be 
>> erroneous to draw conclusions based on a single run, especially on a road 
>> course where so many variables can change.
>>
>> It's very important to control all the variables when testing tires. For 
>> example, at Bicycle Quarterly, we test on a track, and only when there is 
>> no wind (measured with a windspeed meter, < 0.5 m/s; but looking at trees 
>> and checking that the leaves don't move is equally precise). We also 
>> measure temperature and correct for that based on a curve we've established 
>> by measuring the same tires at different temperatures. We do at least three 
>> repeats with each setup.
>>
>> On an open-road course, you'll have many more variables that change. The 
>> way to deal with this is to do repeat runs until the variations average 
>> out. A statistical analysis helps you figure out whether you've reached 
>> that point. (Bicycle Quarterly's tests always include a statistical 
>> analysis to make sure we report actual differences between tires, rather 
>> than just "noise" in the data.)
>>
>> So I encourage you to do more test runs with at least some of the tires, 
>> and then do a statistical analysis. If you need help with that, we can 
>> help. (BQ contributor Mark Vande Kamp has a Ph.D. with a minor in 
>> statistics.)
>>
>> In the mean time, rather than looking at numbers, it may be more useful 
>> to report your impressions of riding each tire. How did they feel different 
>> on each section of your course? Which one was more fun to ride? In the end, 
>> that is what counts for most of us when we ride.
>>
>> Again, thank you for doing the testing. Please continue the experiment 
>> until you get meaningful numbers. It's of great interest to all of us how 
>> these tires perform.
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Bicycles
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Tested 6 pairs of 700c (29in) tires - results and impressions

2015-09-05 Thread Jan Heine
Takahashi,

That is an interesting comparison. Like you, I am surprised that our Barlow 
Pass tires weren't super-fast. At first, I thought about why this could 
be... until I realized that you did only one run with each tire. You 
mention that yours isn't a detailed study, and you are right. It would be 
erroneous to draw conclusions based on a single run, especially on a road 
course where so many variables can change.

It's very important to control all the variables when testing tires. For 
example, at Bicycle Quarterly, we test on a track, and only when there is 
no wind (measured with a windspeed meter, < 0.5 m/s; but looking at trees 
and checking that the leaves don't move is equally precise). We also 
measure temperature and correct for that based on a curve we've established 
by measuring the same tires at different temperatures. We do at least three 
repeats with each setup.

On an open-road course, you'll have many more variables that change. The 
way to deal with this is to do repeat runs until the variations average 
out. A statistical analysis helps you figure out whether you've reached 
that point. (Bicycle Quarterly's tests always include a statistical 
analysis to make sure we report actual differences between tires, rather 
than just "noise" in the data.)

So I encourage you to do more test runs with at least some of the tires, 
and then do a statistical analysis. If you need help with that, we can 
help. (BQ contributor Mark Vande Kamp has a Ph.D. with a minor in 
statistics.)

In the mean time, rather than looking at numbers, it may be more useful to 
report your impressions of riding each tire. How did they feel different on 
each section of your course? Which one was more fun to ride? In the end, 
that is what counts for most of us when we ride.

Again, thank you for doing the testing. Please continue the experiment 
until you get meaningful numbers. It's of great interest to all of us how 
these tires perform.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Re: [Bulk] Re: [BOB] For those of you who don't subscribe to the Compass/BQ mailings ... New Compass Tires Now Available

2015-08-29 Thread Jan Heine
There isn't a technical reason... but the issue of how many tires we can 
produce and stock. We figured that somebody who absolutely needs black 
tires can upgrade from Standard to Extralight casings, whereas downgrading 
from Extralight to Standard just because you want black would be giving up 
significant performance. That said, I think tan sidewalls look great on 
many modern bikes, as they emphasize the wheels, which are the most 
important parts of the bike, after all. Modern all-black bikes tend to look 
like amorphous blobs to me, with little to catch my attention.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles
www.compasscycle.com

On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 7:51:49 PM UTC+2, Chris L wrote:

 Is there a technical reason for this?  Some of us much prefer the look of 
 an all black tire over one with a tan sidewall, especially those of us 
 running MTB's.  



 On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 12:48:33 PM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:

 The Rat Trap Pass 26 x 2.3 measures about 53-54 mm wide on most rims. 
 It's pretty much the largest tire you can fit on a custom bike with road 
 cranks (and thus a narrow tread/Q factor).

 As to the black sidewalls, they are available only with the Extralight 
 casing. The Standard casing is available only with tan sidewalls. The 
 Extralight comes both in tan and black.

 Jan Heine
 Compass Bicycles Ltd.
 www.compasscycle.com



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Re: [RBW] Re: Fenders in Summer

2015-07-29 Thread Jan Heine


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3ulEle6-vVY/VbjsmDMkKbI/A9c/lBpA-A6nCag/s1600/MotoGP2015-Desmosedici_Standard-01_634x357_634x357.jpg


It does not appear the photo of the fastest two-wheeler (that can actually 
go around corners) uploaded, so here it is again. Fenders are part of the 
aero package.


Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3ulEle6-vVY/VbjsmDMkKbI/A9c/lBpA-A6nCag/s1600/MotoGP2015-Desmosedici_Standard-01_634x357_634x357.jpg

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fenders in Summer

2015-07-29 Thread Jan Heine
Formula 1 cars don't have fenders because the rules don't allow them. 
Sports cars (like the ones that race at Le Mans) have fenders and are way 
faster, because they are more aerodynamic...

Shielding the wheels from the airstream actually makes you faster, which is 
why racing motorbikes have fenders. (Neither kickstands nor lights, though!)



Seriously, Bicycle Quarterly tested fenders in the wind tunnel and found 
that the forward extension makes the bike more aerodynamic, the rearward 
one less, and the overall effect is zero.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 2:54:33 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 No fenders on this baby.

 [image: Inline image 1]

 On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 10:59 PM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.net 
 javascript: wrote:

 https://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/03/31/taking-off-fenders/

 How many cyclists run fenders year-round on their cars? It still amazes 
 me that nobody thinks a Porsche or a Ferrari is less sporty for having 
 fenders and lights, but on a bike, it's still uncool in certain circles. ;-)

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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 *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
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 individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

 *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle

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[RBW] Re: Fenders in Summer

2015-07-28 Thread Jan Heine
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/03/31/taking-off-fenders/

How many cyclists run fenders year-round on their cars? It still amazes me 
that nobody thinks a Porsche or a Ferrari is less sporty for having fenders 
and lights, but on a bike, it's still uncool in certain circles. ;-)

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Bicycle Quarterly Un-Meeting

2015-06-24 Thread Jan Heine
For those who can make it to the Pacific Northwest, mark you calendars for 
the BQ Un-Meeting, Sept. 26/27! If last year's Un-Meeting is any 
indication, it'll be great fun... More details are here:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/06/24/bicycle-quarterly-un-meeting/

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

2015-06-12 Thread Jan Heine
It's totally normal to be skeptical when a magazine also has a sister 
company that sells bicycle components... However, the reason Compass exists 
is because we at Bicycle Quarterly wanted to put our research into practice 
and make the parts that we want to ride on our own bikes. We cannot tell 
others what they should manufacture (and believe me, we have tried!), so we 
had to do it ourselves. It's that simple. 

The conflict of interest is best dealt with by being honest. So when the 
handlebar bag of a test bike that was held on with a Grand Bois decaleur we 
sell flew off during a fast gravel descent, of course, we reported it. When 
we found that the Grand Bois Ourson tires didn't perform appreciably better 
than the Panaracer Col de la Vie that used the same mold, we said so. Sure, 
we lost some sales at Compass, but the credibility of Bicycle Quarterly is 
far more important. And the Ourson tires were discontinued based on our 
research, and we replaced them with our own Compass Loup Loup Pass tires, 
which perform much better. And Compass Bicycles sells the MKS platform 
pedals and half-clips that I found to offer less optimal performance on 
short hills... If I was trying to boost sales, I would have said that the 
half-clips offer the same performance as clipless or full toeclips, and 
have quoted the Youtube study...

To suspect that we talk about fork judder on carbon cyclocross forks only 
to boost sales of Rene Herse bikes is a bit far-fetched. For full 
disclosure, we do get a small licensing fee from Boulder Bicycles for every 
Rene Herse bike sold, but so few of these bikes are being made that it's 
totally insignificant, on par of what we make from selling Maxi-Car 
replacement axles. These are projects we do because we want to do them, not 
because they make money. We also do sell the wonderful Kaisei Toei 
Special fork blades, but again, I doubt many are sold to riders who'd 
otherwise buy a production carbon fork...

The carbon fork issue (brake judder with cantilever brakes and a 
high-mounted cable hanger) has been reported in many magazines, but I 
believe we are the first who figured out what really is happening. It is 
simply a mismatch between very stout fork legs and a flexible steerer. 
Instead of getting the brake dive in the fork legs as the weight 
transfers forward during braking, you get flex in the steerer, which 
affects the tension of the brake cable, setting up a rhythmic oscillation. 
It can happen with any fork material, but it's predominant with carbon 
forks. I am sorry if that wasn't explained clearly enough in the article.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

2015-06-12 Thread Jan Heine
Clayton,

No apologies necessary. You are right that a lot of brake judder can be 
cured with toe-in adjustment. However, on these carbon forks, even the most 
extreme toe-in doesn't solve the problem - we tried everything (including 
toe-out, different pads, etc.). On our first long ride on that particular 
bike, we actually stopped multiple times adjusting the brakes (with several 
professional bike mechanics on the team, everybody felt that _they_ could 
cure the problem, even if the others couldn't). I am glad that your bike 
doesn't display the brake judder any longer, because it's annoying, and not 
something I'd gladly live with on a daily basis.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly

On Friday, June 12, 2015 at 7:50:46 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:

 Jan, I apologize. 
 I did not mean to offend anyone, and was totally mistaken about your 
 connection to Rene Herse. Your connection to them in my mind, somehow 
 became your brand, that you sold. However I stand by my brake comments. I 
 had intense brake judder on my Specialized Crux, and it was cured by toe-in 
  (regardless of the cause). Other forks may not have the same results, and 
 using different brake pads could change things too.
  

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[RBW] Re: Jan reports on new Compass tire prototypes

2015-06-09 Thread Jan Heine
Rim width matters much less with very supple tires, since the sidewalls 
don't hold up the bike. So you need to run somewhat higher pressures, but 
the supple casing still gives you much better comfort and traction (and 
speed).

Cyclocross and pro mountain bikers run tubulars on rims that have a very 
narrow effective width - the tire is not supported at all on the sides. And 
yet they perform great - the fact that they are winning races in 
disciplines where bike handling is of crucial importance says it all.

With stiffer tires, you want to run lower pressures (the tires already are 
harsh), so the sidewalls get tasked with holding up the bike. Then, and 
only then, does rim width make a big difference, as it either allows the 
tire to stand on the sidewall (wide rim making the sidewalls horizontal), 
or the sidewall simply folds (narrow rim making the sidewall curved).

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.

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[RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

2015-06-08 Thread Jan Heine
There seems to be a misunderstanding. We never advertised it as a study. 
I wrote in a blog comment that we tested some pedals with and without 
retention. I am sorry this was misunderstood as purporting to have done a 
scientific study, and then reported here as such. The article and test 
never were intended as a scientific study. Like any test, they simply 
report on the (somewhat subjective) experience of riding with the product. 
I apologize for any disappointment that arose from this misunderstanding.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle WA USA
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/ 
http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Monday, June 8, 2015 at 6:39:16 AM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:

 I too was disappointed with the study. By study I thought Jan meant a 
 scientific study where a hypotheses was rigorously tested with a repeatable 
 methodology that would refine the hypothesis. Instead it was subjective 
 with non-repeatable observations of how Jan reacted to a system that was 
 different to his own pedal system and possibly his own bias. At the end of 
 the short article, we are left with an untested hypothesis that Uphills, 
 especially short rises, are easier when your feet are firmly attached to 
 the pedals. 

 I personally don't disagree with this hypothesis, just like in the past I 
 didn't disagree with the hypothesis that tire pressure was directly 
 correlated to speed.

 I think if Jan had advertised that he had some observations of pedal 
 performance or some such wording, then I would have not had an expectation 
 of a (scientific) study.

 Joe huge fan of BQ and pay for 3 subscriptions Ramey

 On Wednesday, June 3, 2015 at 12:07:49 PM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:

 I am sorry that there was a misperception that we did a detailed study of 
 pedal retention. We tested a few pedals, both with and without retention, 
 and the results were interesting. Whether a more rigorous study is needed 
 when the results are so clear is another matter. To cite an even more 
 extreme case: Do we also need a rigorous study to prove that a bike with 
 flat tires rolls slower?

 I think it's pretty clear that during normal riding, retention makes 
 little difference. Grant P. is right when he says that you don't pull up 
 much, if at all. However, during short efforts on rolling terrain, it's 
 obvious that you can pull up, and I did realize how much I do pull up when 
 that ability was taken away. On the same bike and the same course, I 
 suddenly needed to shift on the smallest hills, whereas usually, I just 
 roll over them. And getting out of the saddle had no benefit, since I 
 couldn't lever the bike with my lower foot as a fixed point. Suddenly, my 
 power output was limited by my body weight...

 In the article, I compared it to opening the lid of a jar. If you hold 
 the jar with one hand and the lid with the other, you can apply way more 
 force than if you have your friend hold the jar while you turn the lid.

 Considering this, I am not sure I want to put our limited resources into 
 a more sophisticated study.

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 Seattle WA USA
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

 On Wednesday, June 3, 2015 at 9:28:39 AM UTC-7, Jayme Frye wrote:

 Received my summer issue of BQ. I am disappointed with the published 
 test. Not that the test does not support my position but that it was a 
 seat-of-the-pants test. I was expecting/hoping for power outputs, VO2 
 charts, lactate threshold kinds of data. This is what I would expect from 
 the BQ crew given all the rigor applied to tire testing. 

 Jayme

 On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 9:23:53 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Doubtless of interest to RBW listers. Quoted from the Compass blog for 
 those who don't read it or BQ.

 I'll be very interested myself, as someone hitherto convinced that 
 retention is a great help. If tests show that retention doesn't help, I'd 
 probably still keep retention on my fixed gears, for safety, and because 
 they do undoubtedly allow pulling up for more torque when climbing steep 
 hills, but would undoubtedly switch to platforms for my off road 
 derailleur 
 bike.














 *Jayme Frye says:May 15, 2015 at 6:27 amI was with you up until SPD 
 clipless pedals. I am not convinced there is any need for retention 
 systems 
 outside the ultra competitive world of pro cycling (primarily sprints). 
 Perhaps you could use your testing methods on the claims that pedal 
 retention systems are more efficient and allow the rider to produce more 
 power by pulling up. That would make for a great BQ article.CheersReplyJan 
 Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly says:May 15, 2015 at 6:55 amWe did test 
 this. It’s in the Summer issue, which will come out soon…Reply*

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 http

[RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

2015-06-03 Thread Jan Heine
I am sorry that there was a misperception that we did a detailed study of 
pedal retention. We tested a few pedals, both with and without retention, 
and the results were interesting. Whether a more rigorous study is needed 
when the results are so clear is another matter. To cite an even more 
extreme case: Do we also need a rigorous study to prove that a bike with 
flat tires rolls slower?

I think it's pretty clear that during normal riding, retention makes 
little difference. Grant P. is right when he says that you don't pull up 
much, if at all. However, during short efforts on rolling terrain, it's 
obvious that you can pull up, and I did realize how much I do pull up when 
that ability was taken away. On the same bike and the same course, I 
suddenly needed to shift on the smallest hills, whereas usually, I just 
roll over them. And getting out of the saddle had no benefit, since I 
couldn't lever the bike with my lower foot as a fixed point. Suddenly, my 
power output was limited by my body weight...

In the article, I compared it to opening the lid of a jar. If you hold the 
jar with one hand and the lid with the other, you can apply way more force 
than if you have your friend hold the jar while you turn the lid.

Considering this, I am not sure I want to put our limited resources into a 
more sophisticated study.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle WA USA
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Wednesday, June 3, 2015 at 9:28:39 AM UTC-7, Jayme Frye wrote:

 Received my summer issue of BQ. I am disappointed with the published 
 test. Not that the test does not support my position but that it was a 
 seat-of-the-pants test. I was expecting/hoping for power outputs, VO2 
 charts, lactate threshold kinds of data. This is what I would expect from 
 the BQ crew given all the rigor applied to tire testing. 

 Jayme

 On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 9:23:53 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Doubtless of interest to RBW listers. Quoted from the Compass blog for 
 those who don't read it or BQ.

 I'll be very interested myself, as someone hitherto convinced that 
 retention is a great help. If tests show that retention doesn't help, I'd 
 probably still keep retention on my fixed gears, for safety, and because 
 they do undoubtedly allow pulling up for more torque when climbing steep 
 hills, but would undoubtedly switch to platforms for my off road derailleur 
 bike.














 *Jayme Frye says:May 15, 2015 at 6:27 amI was with you up until SPD 
 clipless pedals. I am not convinced there is any need for retention systems 
 outside the ultra competitive world of pro cycling (primarily sprints). 
 Perhaps you could use your testing methods on the claims that pedal 
 retention systems are more efficient and allow the rider to produce more 
 power by pulling up. That would make for a great BQ article.CheersReplyJan 
 Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly says:May 15, 2015 at 6:55 amWe did test 
 this. It’s in the Summer issue, which will come out soon…Reply*

 -- 
 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

 *
 *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
 circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
 individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

 *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle

 *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante  
  


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[RBW] Re: 'Fat tires' featured on front page of Sac Bee

2015-05-12 Thread Jan Heine
I think he was talking about the average weekend warrior. It is funny (or 
sad) that middle-aged men and women on their team replica racing bikes 
are still toughing it out on super-hard, puncture-resistant 23 mm 
clinchers, while the pros roll in (relative) comfort on hand-made 25 mm 
tubulars and much lower pressures.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] The Golden Age of Handbuilt Bicycles – Classics Edition

2015-03-20 Thread Jan Heine
Our classic book *The Golden Age of Handbuilt Bicycles* has been 
re-released in Rizzoli's Classics series, in a slightly smaller format 
and at a very attractive price. It's exciting to see a book about 
real-world bikes as a best-seller (at least among art and architecture 
books), and it's a great opportunity to get the book at a very affordable 
price. More information and some stories from the making of the book are 
here:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/03/20/the-golden-age-classic-edition/

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle WA USA
http://www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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Re: [RBW] Re: mafac raid brake

2015-03-10 Thread Jan Heine
I think there was something very wrong with your Raid setup, so I am glad 
you are using a better-performing brake now! Being able to stop well is 
important, and it's not worth risking an emergency room visit to try and 
save a few dollars.

Your braking problem is difficult to diagnose from a distance, and there 
are many variables with bolt-on centerpulls. The interface between the yoke 
and the fork crown matters greatly (unlike on a modern sidepull, where the 
bolt takes all the load). If the fork crown is shaped in a way that makes 
that interface less-than-optimal, it might affect your brake power. For 
example, a curved surface, or a raised lip around the hole... That would be 
my first guess.

That is one of the reasons we offer the Compass centerpull brakes only for 
braze-on mounting. With dedicated braze-ons, you eliminate any flex at the 
fork crown/brake yoke interface, as well as within the brake yoke itself. 
As long as you have decent pads and rims, your stopping power and 
modulation will be among the best of any brake ever made.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
Seattle WA USA
http://www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 8:15:11 AM UTC-7, NickBull wrote:

 Sorry, don't know.  I was just comparing between bikes so ... on the Ram I 
 could come to a full stop before the house number painted on the curb, but 
 with the Raid's I came to a full stop about ten feet after.  I would guess 
 the stopping distance was about 25 feet on the Ram, but that doesn't mean a 
 whole lot because I don't remember my target speed, and of course the 
 downward angle of the road matters.

 On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 9:49:12 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:

 Guess I'm lucky and/or not discerning, since I'm pretty satisfied with 
 how my Raid brake is working.
 Mildly curious, what was your stopping distance with with Shimano 
 medium-reach brakes on your Rambouillet?

 On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 9:21:45 AM UTC-7, NickBull wrote:

 After a couple of years of trying to get my Raid brakes with arches and 
 Kool Stop red pads to 1) not squeal intermittently, and 2) brake 
 effectively, I finally gave up and bought a new fork for which I could 
 mount cantilever brakes.  The final straw was a comparison test that I did 
 on a gentle hill near where I live, where I rode several bikes at a 
 constant 20mph speed toward a particularly noticeable crack crossing the 
 road and then did a panic stop at that point.  The stopping distance was 
 best for the Shimano medium-reach brakes that came on my Rambouillet, and 
 only slightly worse for Dia Compe 600's and for Tektro CR720's and R559's.  
 For the Raid's it was a good ten feet of additional stopping distance.  
 Note that on my Raid brakes, in order for them to contact the rim at the 
 correct angle, the pad-holders were slammed as far down as possible in the 
 slots, creating the longest possible lever arm.  That may be why I had so 
 much difficulty getting these adjusted for acceptable braking distances.  
 Bolt-on Raid's would probably (but not definitely) have solved the problem, 
 so I had to make a hard choice between having Waterford build up a 
 cantilever fork or one with Mafac braze-ons.  Since they had no experience 
 with the latter, I was not all that confident that they'd get it right, and 
 since my Raid's were bought used and have some noticeable wear, I decided 
 that the millions of people riding on cantilever brakes (including me on my 
 Burley tandem and Soma Grand Randonneur) are probably not making too big of 
 a mistake, and I joined them.

 Nick

 On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 11:04:48 PM UTC-5, ted wrote:

 Minor update.
 This morning I took a little time and got the toe in down to something 
 approaching the amount I typically find works well on other brakes I have 
 set up.
 Rode up hill and down dale after that. The raid worked just fine. Lever 
 travel is about what I like. No squealing (except one or two modest very 
 low speed chirps). Braking power seemed fine to me. Controlled speed and 
 stopped the bike just fine.
 One caveat, I don't think I am a particularly demanding brake user. 
 I've got no complaints about how the CR720s and R559s I have used perform. 
 I gather some find those under powered and can't stand em, so as usual 
 YMMV.

 On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 7:53:45 AM UTC-8, A. L Young wrote:


 On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 6:19 PM, ted ted@comcast.net wrote:

 It's a bit lost in the mists of time, but I think I bought the aero 
 levers to replace older non aero levers, and that they seemed the same 
 (except for being aero). Do you know when levers started having more 
 mechanical advantage? Was that a Mafac versus others differentiator?


 My understanding is that the more modern aero levers have more 
 mechanical advantage than the older non-aero style due to the position of 
 the pivot in the handle and direction of cable pull.  I've used both 
 types 
 and when

[RBW] Re: Grand Bois rim dumb question.

2015-02-27 Thread Jan Heine
I have used 16 mm without problems. Ideally, you'd cover the whole rim bed, 
since the thickness of the tape is factored into the tire fit. (Rim plugs 
would be a bad idea, since your tire seating would be affected.) However, 
half a millimeter on each side is narrower than the bead of the tires, so 
it doesn't make a difference...

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
Seattle WA USA
www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Re: WTT: edelux II for upside down version

2015-02-25 Thread Jan Heine
They are already listed, but not yet in stock. ETA is late March. Since we 
were the instigator behind the project, we'll get them as well once they 
are available.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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On Wednesday, February 25, 2015 at 6:47:49 AM UTC-8, lungimsam wrote:

 Clayton, Peter White Cycles says they now have the upside down edeluxe II. 
 There are two models of it.

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[RBW] Re: Bent Handlebars Question

2015-02-10 Thread Jan Heine
Also consider how the bars are made at Nitto in the first place (see the 
article in the Winter 2014 *Bicycle Quarterly* 
http://www.bikequarterly.com/current_issue.html). They are just bent to 
shape. So a little bending to straighten them is fine.

Of course, if they are truly bent or kinked, you should retire them. If you 
bend aluminum back and forth too many times, it will break (usually turns 
whitish first).

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
http://www.bikequarterly.com

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[RBW] Re: Drilling head tube lug for internal wiring?

2015-02-08 Thread Jan Heine
Drilling a hole for a lighting wire should only void the warranty if that 
is what causes the problem. So if your frame fails, and the crack clearly 
started at the hole, you wouldn't want to make a warranty claim. But if 
your frame fails where the downtube enters the bottom bracket shell, no 
reputable company will claim that drilling a hole in the headlug somehow 
caused that failure... (And Rivendell is a reputable company.)

It's interesting when I show around people who've never been inside a frame 
shop. They are shocked at what they see – all the frame parts are 
discolored from soaking off the flux. After brazing the frames get aligned 
by yanking on them with brute force. To the untrained eye, it all looks 
very rough. Yet the frames are stronger than what you could make in an 
aseptically clean factory... So drilling a tiny hole in the headlug (away 
from any stressed areas, of course) isn't a big deal.

Speaking of not aseptically clean factories, during a recent visit to 
Panaracer, we got to meet quite a few of the engineers. It was very 
encouraging to see that many had rubber stains on their shirts, indicating 
that they actually made prototype tires and were involved in the making of 
things! Same thing at Nitto... If you only get to meet the guys in suits 
with clean hands, it always a bad sign!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Sunday, February 8, 2015 at 7:47:11 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:

 The Atlantis has 4 factory drilled holes on the DT for the water bottle 
 bosses.  Surely the lugged HT area is pretty stout, and the wire doesn't 
 have be very big.  I would assume any customer modifications like this void 
 any warranty.  

 As a point of reference and not to encourage you in any way, I performed 
 all manner of ham fisted butchery to my Atlantis fork, included TIG 
 welding, drilling, brazing  grinding things off to move them, and it 
 survived just fine (the metal, not the paint).  Rivendells are not 
 delicate.  YMMV.  

 dougP

 On Sunday, February 8, 2015 at 8:58:58 AM UTC-8, William! wrote:

 I'm interested in running internal dynamo wiring, front to back, on my 
 Atlantis. There's already a good size hole in the BB shell, so I'm thinking 
 all I need to do is drill a hole in the downtube in the head tube lug. 
 Wiring would go up fork (the outside, held with twine or something), into 
 the new hole, down the downtube, out the BB shell and through a hole in the 
 rear fender, all the way around the fender inside it to a fender-mounted 
 light at the rear of the bike. That's the thinking, anyway.

 Yes, I'm really thinking bout putting a hole in my beloved Atlantis. 
 Anyone done this and care to advise? Or perhaps you have a better idea?



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[RBW] Damaged Book and 2015 Calendar Sale

2015-02-06 Thread Jan Heine


At Compass Bicycles, we sometimes receive books from overseas that got 
damaged in shipping. And some of our own books have flaws, from bumped 
corners to minor manufacturing defects. Most bookstores would sell these 
books all the same, but we'd rather send you a pristine copy, and sell the 
damaged ones every couple of years at a reduced price. This is your 
opportunity to get the following titles at a reduced price:

   - Bicycle Quarterly's 2015 Calendar
   - René Herse: The Bikes • The Builder • The Riders 
   - The Golden Age of Handbuilt Bicycles
   - The Competition Bicycle 
   - Alex Singer (the Japanese book)
   - Paris-Brest-Paris (the French book)

Click here for more information 
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/02/06/damaged-book-and-2015-calendar-sale/.
 
Supplies are limited. Fortunately, we don't have a lot of damaged books!

Tailwinds,
Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com 

Follow our blog at https://janheine.wordpress.com/ 

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[RBW] Tire Pressure Revolution

2015-01-26 Thread Jan Heine
Most here already know this, of course, but I summarized what we now know 
about tire pressure and performance in a new blog post today...

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/01/26/the-tire-pressure-revolution/

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Re: Tire Pressure Revolution

2015-01-26 Thread Jan Heine
There is lots more data - Bicycle Quarterly has published numerous articles 
on tire performance:

http://www.bikequarterly.com/BQ_subject_index.html

The sweet spots are real – we did a statistical analysis to make sure it 
wasn't just noise in the data – but they also depend on the road surface. 
So unless you develop a system that allows you to change your tire pressure 
as you ride (and somehow determines what the optimum pressure is for the 
surface you are riding on), the take-home message is: Don't stress about 
tire pressure.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:23:48 AM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:

 Jan, can you post more data? The one table of data you provided seems 
 inconclusive to me - there might be sweet spots for rolling resistance both 
 below and above the so-called high pressure inflation point. Also, can 
 you show similar data for wider tires, to help reinforce the conclusions? 
 Or, were such data already presented, in previous blog posts?

 It would be helpful, too, to see data that are controlled for inflated 
 tire diameter, not just rim diameter.

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 6:20:47 AM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote:

 Most here already know this, of course, but I summarized what we now know 
 about tire pressure and performance in a new blog post today...

 https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/01/26/the-tire-pressure-revolution/

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/



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[RBW] Re: Tire Pressure Revolution

2015-01-26 Thread Jan Heine
The folding bead is lighter, but it doesn't change the flex of the tire, 
since it lies against the (ultra-stiff) rim.

What makes a tire supple is:

1. Casing construction. Finer threads, less rubber, etc., all make the tire 
more supple. Puncture-proof belts make it less supple.
2. Tread thickness. Thinner is more supple.
2. How far the tread rubber wraps around the tire. The tread rubber 
stiffens the casing, so the less you wrap it around, the more supple the 
tire.

Of course, all these factors need to be balanced so that you get a tire 
that works in the real world. Different conditions require different 
tires...

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:19:07 AM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:

 Even the folding Supremes?  Just wondered if that would make a difference 
 from the wire bead. 

 Thanks, 
 John

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[RBW] Re: GrandBois tires on sale at Grandbois

2015-01-21 Thread Jan Heine
It's a bit more complex than that. The Standard tires have a lower tpi 
casing, which improves their cut resistance. (Very fine threads are easier 
to cut.)

The Extralights have a higher thread count, but not the highest TPI 
Panaracer can do, because spacing the threads further apart makes the 
casing more supple, rather than a super-dense weave. The blog post David 
referenced explains it in more detail.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/ 

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[RBW] Re: GrandBois tires on sale at Grandbois

2015-01-20 Thread Jan Heine


On Monday, January 19, 2015 at 3:40:32 PM UTC-8, Minh wrote:

 It's amazing that these guys will discount them so heavily only being 10% 
 off on weight!  they've could've called them 'leger' instead of 'extra 
 leger'!  


Grand Bois is getting a new shipment, and don't want to create confusion. 
Adding an SKU to the shop is a major administrative task, and if you have 
limited numbers, it's easier to just sell them at a discount and clear the 
shelves.

I actually prefer the current tires, as the new ones will revert to the 
dry-feeling casing that the first Extra-Legers used. We had too many issues 
with them fraying, but perhaps we ride them harder than many Japanese 
cyclotourists...

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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Re: [RBW] Re: A visit to MKS

2015-01-15 Thread Jan Heine
I like that idea – it used to be available on some French bikes, perhaps 
also to keep the edges of the clips from digging into the shoes when you 
use touring shoes without a cleat that keeps the shoe located precisely 
where you want it (away from the front of the toeclip). We'll see whether 
we can make it happen.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 2:36:59 PM UTC-8, Lee Legrand wrote:


 Have you thought about or is it in the works to have those 
 leather fittings or strips that fit around the metal on the toe clip? Not 
 the straps but the stitch leather in the toe clip to that protects the shoe 
 from metal of the toe clip.


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[RBW] Re: A visit to MKS

2015-01-15 Thread Jan Heine
Shoes vary a lot - do you use thin cycling shoes (in which case you'll need 
a small). If you use street shoes, a Medium or Large would be a better 
choice. It also depends on where you like to have your foot in relation to 
the pedal spindle. Although it seems the latter doesn't matter all that 
much within a reasonable range.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 5:14:26 PM UTC-8, Kellie Stapleton wrote:

 Hey, you don't have a size recommendation for the toeclips that go with 
 the MKS Rx-1 on your website. Like men's 8 shoe size, order small, etc. I 
 wear a women's 8.5. What size toe clip should I get?
 On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 8:40:55 AM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote:

 During our recent visit to Japan, we had the privilege of visiting the 
 MKS pedal factory. It was a treat to see huge machines stamp out toeclips. 
 On the other end of the spectrum, a single, white-gloved employee adjusted 
 the bearings of the top-of-the-line pedals with miniscule shims... I wrote 
 a blog post about the visit 
 https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fjanheine.wordpress.com%2F2015%2F01%2F14%2Fmks-pedals-and-more-in-japan%2Fsa=Dsntz=1usg=AFQjCNGnrw6LV_cWwUQR7QB5YS-BQkH8Ig
 :

 https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/01/14/mks-pedals-and-more-in-japan/

 https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fjanheine.wordpress.com%2F2015%2F01%2F14%2Fmks-pedals-and-more-in-japan%2Fsa=Dsntz=1usg=AFQjCNGnrw6LV_cWwUQR7QB5YS-BQkH8Ig
 Jan Heine
 Compass Bicycles Ltd.
 Seattle WA USA
 www.compasscycle.com

 Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/



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[RBW] A visit to MKS

2015-01-14 Thread Jan Heine
During our recent visit to Japan, we had the privilege of visiting the MKS 
pedal factory. It was a treat to see huge machines stamp out toeclips. On 
the other end of the spectrum, a single, white-gloved employee adjusted the 
bearings of the top-of-the-line pedals with miniscule shims... I wrote a blog 
post about the visit 
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/01/14/mks-pedals-and-more-in-japan/:

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/01/14/mks-pedals-and-more-in-japan/

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
Seattle WA USA
www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Re: Compass Babyshoe pass and Grand Bois Hetre actual width

2014-12-06 Thread Jan Heine
The Hetre is a tad wider, since the tread on the shoulders is thicker. 
However, the inside mold is the same shape, so the air volume is the same.

I recommend the Hetre if you like the look (which I agree is beautiful), 
and the Babyshoe Pass if you want the ultimate in performance and supple 
comfort.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

On Friday, December 5, 2014 8:22:51 PM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:

 Has anyone who owns both the Compass Babyshoe Pass and the Grand Bois 
 Hetre measured both tires on the same rim to determine the actual width? I 
 know that actual measured width varies with the rim, but if measured on the 
 same rim we should know which tire is wider. Or are they dead-on the same?

 Doug


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Re: [RBW] About to start experimenting with centerpulls

2014-12-06 Thread Jan Heine
Ernest Csuka of Cycles Alex Singer always said that no adjustment should be 
at the end of the range. Good bikes and good components are designed so 
that you don't need to push things to the very edge. In Rivendell's early 
days, this wasn't the case, since only short-reach brakes were commonly 
available, so Grant spec'd the clearances so the brakes were at the bottom 
of the slot, so you could fit the widest possible tires. All was fine until 
Toyo got it half a millimeter off on some Rambouillets, and you had to file 
the slots of the brake to stop the pads from hitting the tires... I am glad 
that we now have better components and no longer need to take these risks.

The Compass brakes are designed to provide optimum clearances with 42 mm 
tires and the pads 2/3 of the way down the slot. Moving the braze-ons 
higher (and the pads lower in the slots) would increase the clearance, but 
if you use our rack, it would move the fender mount too high. The brakes 
open far enough for 42 mm tires as designed, so there is no need to push 
them any further. Our custom pad holders are short enough to clear the 
seatstays/fork blades, so the brake can open wide. Most modern pads hit the 
stays/blades, which limits how wide the brake can open.

If you use narrower tires (say 38 mm), then it makes sense to move the 
pivots down a bit, so the rack sits at the right level above the tires 
again. We intend the pads always to be in the middle third of the 
adjustment range, so that you have some wiggle room.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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On Friday, December 5, 2014 4:05:00 PM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:

 Can anyone comment on benefits/risks of placing the centerpull braze-on 
 posts so pads are normally at position of longest reach? 


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