Re: [RBW] Re: Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"

[Mackenzy Albright]

This conversation got a bit interesting in thr CR Google group - my general 
consensus is that in the entire industry of obsolescence Grant is the only 
one fighting the fight for bikes that will be rideable 15+ years after 
their manufacture. Especially with electronic and carbon parts we will see 
less and less compatibility and more one time use. I think him advocating 
to the average individual that performance can look like a bike that it 
simple, elegant, high quality, and can last a lifetime. 

There are some companies following trend a bit like crust. I bought my 
romanceur as a low trail disc brake Atlantis alternative. Though I realized 
I am just not that fond of disc brakes and the required additional 
stiffening of everything to compensate for the flex. 

Grant isn't forcing anyone to adhere to his opinions - but he is having to 
dig his heels in yo advocate amongst a trend and profit driven industry 
that is racing biased and people take this fo being adversarial. I'd 
strongly argue that steel bikes, lugs, 650b, wheel sizes for different 
sizes, and fat tire road bikes. That in my opinion means every gravel bike 
owes a nod to grants innovation and steadfastness or we'd all still be 
riding pizza cutters. 


On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 8:08:44 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

> I believe there are different degrees of ebikes. Some are just an 
> electronic assist.
>
> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 10:08:12 AM UTC-4 Matt B. wrote:
>
>> "often described e-bikes as mopeds"
>>
>> i mean, that's what they are... is an electric automobile not a car?
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 1:47:56 AM UTC-4 robtw...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Disc brakes are probably at the top of the list of things in which I 
>>> disagree with Grant. Living where I live and riding where I ride, I 
>>> sometimes thank the heavens for disc brakes. But that doesn't mean I want 
>>> them on all my bikes, and yet, here we are, in a timeline where it is the 
>>> only option for 99% of bike buyers who aren't even aware these days that 
>>> there might be other options, it seems.
>>>
>>> The bumper sticker idea is hilarious and extremely on the nose. Grant 
>>> (such a jerk!) has done a *phenomenal* job of "delaying wide-spread 
>>> adoption of disc brakes"... 
>>>
>>> so silly. What an odd, an ungenerous "take" on GP's legacy.
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Orthos

[Mackenzy Albright]

Just to re-comment- because I like looking at this bike: in all honestly I 
haven't given much attention to Ortho bars in the past as I find them a bit 
overwhelming on most builds in terms of a visual focus as they are so 
large. In this case I feel as if they are made for the bike and absolutely 
perfect proportionally and fit the build to a T. Have you had a chance to 
take it for a ride? 

On Friday, September 20, 2024 at 2:30:34 PM UTC-7 Danny wrote:

> Great looking build!
>
> On Friday, September 20, 2024 at 3:11:00 PM UTC-5 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> [image: image0.jpeg][image: image1.jpeg][image: image2.jpeg]
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 14, 2024, at 10:20 AM, Eliot Balogh  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Wow. What a stunning build. 
>>
>> I’m rebuilding a Ram as a roadish bike and this is making me jealous lol. 
>>
>> Eliot
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 14, 2024 at 6:33 AM Andrew Joseph  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thank you both!
>>>
>>> Truly appreciate the responses.  
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Sep 14, 2024, at 6:35 AM, David Ross  wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> I’d also add that the guy who designed the Orthos uses a 25.4 single 
>>> bolt stem on the Orthos even though they are 26mm. I think he actually 
>>> designed them to work this way. Personally, I don’t know enough about 
>>> engineering or metallurgy to know if this is a good or bad idea, so please 
>>> don’t think I’m advising you to do this. 
>>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 13, 2024 at 5:05 PM Andrew Joseph  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Bars slippage reports came in at an interesting point for me.  

 What was the consensus on getting them to stay put?  

 The Sam rebuild is almost there.  Orthos will be angle down slightly 
 more, bar tape and need longer dynamo wires for the Pass and Stow….

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 Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell children's bike

[Mackenzy Albright]

I am guessing Grant is doing a run of these as it appears he has a young - 
soon to be cyclist age kid in his life. I can respect going through wy 
too much effort to do a small run of kids bikes as a niche for fun. 
(especially now with Bluelug carrying a lot of weight has a greater market 
with deep pockets and visibility) I can't imaging (like the rosco-bebe) 
it'll be more than a single run bike. Hopefully it's like an expensive 
handmade crib where it get's passed around the community and generations. 

On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 9:59:49 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

> This is a tough market because there are just tons of great bike store 
> level kids bikes out there for really low dollars. I had a Trek kids bike 
> that we sold on marketplace a few years back for $40 because its just a 
> flooded market. Spending hundred on an adult bike that will last is one 
> thing but spending the same just to have your kid ride a Riv bike that will 
> be unusable for them in a short time is a tough pill to swallow. On top of 
> that I think its much better to recycle and reuse vs make new products. I 
> understand the motivation but its not a path I would go down if I owned the 
> company.
>
> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 12:47:40 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright 
> wrote:
>
>> Brian, the build is absolutely on point - thank you for sharing. That is 
>> absolutely the coaster bike of my dream in every detail. I owned a surly 
>> 1x1 back in the day and to this day one of my bikes with the fondest 
>> memories. I always keep my eye out for one to build - but find them quite 
>> elusive in Canada. I got a custom marino built a few years back but I 
>> deviated from the geometry and it was just a bit too wonky for me. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 8:35:50 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:
>>
>>> On Tuesday, September 17, 2024 at 1:07:16 PM UTC-5 Eric Daume wrote:
>>>
>>> Conventional wisdom says kids don't have enough hand strength for hand 
>>> brakes. 
>>>
>>> In fact, the CPSC requires kids bikes to have a coaster brake (they 
>>> can't be hand brake only).
>>>
>>>
>>>  My now-4-year-old grandson begs to differ. For his third birthday we 
>>> gave him a Woom balance bike. The brakes on the Woom are easily managed and 
>>> adjustable. We ended up adjusting the front brake so it had less stopping 
>>> power, for fairly obvious reasons. This year, for his fourth birthday, we 
>>> gave him the next size up Woom with pedals. He already had balance, 
>>> steering, coasting, and braking figured out, so just needed to learn how to 
>>> pedal. He didn't have any other pedal toys, so it actually took him a bit 
>>> of time to learn to pedal, especially getting going from a stop. If it had 
>>> a coaster brake I think it would have ruined him. Within two days he was 
>>> riding laps around the neighborhood, uphill and down, able to skid to a 
>>> stop if needed. It even has a 2-speed automatic hub. It didn't take him 
>>> long to find 2nd gear :-) 
>>>
>>> The CPSC rule is horribly out of date. It was written when caliper 
>>> brakes, especially those used on childrens' bikes, were crap and couldn't 
>>> stop the bike even with an adult's hand strength. The v-brakes and matched 
>>> levers on the Woom are easily managed by tiny hands.
>>>
>>> Ted Durant
>>> Milwaukee WI USA
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: "Rivendell themed" Cherubim

[Mackenzy Albright]

Raw_meet - what a lovely bike. Thanks for sharing. I've always had a 
fondness or Cherubim's but never seen one set up so 'sportiff' so to speak. 
It looks like a lot of fun. I had a holdsworthy built similarly but the toe 
overlap with fenders made me switch to building something different. 

On Tuesday, September 17, 2024 at 11:59:29 AM UTC-7 raw_meet wrote:

> Sharing some pics of my Cherubim sportif that I ride daily. This is what 
> I'd choose if i had to pick n=1. Actual Riv parts are limited to the 
> sackville bag and cargo net, but I got an introduction to things like 
> Suntour power shifters, wald baskets, and Nitto parts that it uses thanks 
> to Rivendell's website as a kid. 
> Tire clearance is a little limited with these fenders, I'm maxed out at 
> 32mm gravelking slicks on open pros, but that's wide enough for me. Despite 
> not being a light build, the frame itself is light and this thing really 
> moves when I want it to. Some bikes have that sensation of not rewarding 
> your efforts, like you could be riding faster than they're letting you, but 
> this bike goes as fast as I'd want to go with a basket full of stuff out 
> front. 
> The build is a little boring; the only marginally interesting parts are a 
> euro-market LX rear derailleur that I swapped a short pulley onto, and gray 
> suntour power ratchet shifters which I have fiendishly sought to do a gray 
> themed build around over the years.
> I got this bike in 2018 and it took me until 2023 to get it built the way 
> I really like it. I don't have a desire to change any of the fundamentals 
> now. [image: IMG_0078.JPG]
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell children's bike

[Mackenzy Albright]

Brian, the build is absolutely on point - thank you for sharing. That is 
absolutely the coaster bike of my dream in every detail. I owned a surly 
1x1 back in the day and to this day one of my bikes with the fondest 
memories. I always keep my eye out for one to build - but find them quite 
elusive in Canada. I got a custom marino built a few years back but I 
deviated from the geometry and it was just a bit too wonky for me. 

On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 8:35:50 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Tuesday, September 17, 2024 at 1:07:16 PM UTC-5 Eric Daume wrote:
>
> Conventional wisdom says kids don't have enough hand strength for hand 
> brakes. 
>
> In fact, the CPSC requires kids bikes to have a coaster brake (they can't 
> be hand brake only).
>
>
>  My now-4-year-old grandson begs to differ. For his third birthday we gave 
> him a Woom balance bike. The brakes on the Woom are easily managed and 
> adjustable. We ended up adjusting the front brake so it had less stopping 
> power, for fairly obvious reasons. This year, for his fourth birthday, we 
> gave him the next size up Woom with pedals. He already had balance, 
> steering, coasting, and braking figured out, so just needed to learn how to 
> pedal. He didn't have any other pedal toys, so it actually took him a bit 
> of time to learn to pedal, especially getting going from a stop. If it had 
> a coaster brake I think it would have ruined him. Within two days he was 
> riding laps around the neighborhood, uphill and down, able to skid to a 
> stop if needed. It even has a 2-speed automatic hub. It didn't take him 
> long to find 2nd gear :-) 
>
> The CPSC rule is horribly out of date. It was written when caliper brakes, 
> especially those used on childrens' bikes, were crap and couldn't stop the 
> bike even with an adult's hand strength. The v-brakes and matched levers on 
> the Woom are easily managed by tiny hands.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell children's bike

[Mackenzy Albright]

I have no logic for coaster brakes - but from day one of learning to ride I 
loved skids and doing skid whips and spraying gravel all over. I went 
through so many tires. I needed to get so many pebbles picked out of my 
hands and knees almost weekly. As an adult I've wanted to build a coaster 
mtb for a long while - but it's always bottom of my list. 

Handbrakes are fine though. I am guessing the coaster build is somewhat 
related to nostalgia. 

On Tuesday, September 17, 2024 at 9:42:05 AM UTC-7 Nick Shoemaker wrote:

>
> I’m intrigued by this too, but a little puzzled by the coaster brake - can 
> anyone fill me in on the logic of choosing that over hand brakes for a kids 
> bike? My 4yo is riding a Woom 3 and I feel like the lack of a coaster brake 
> has made for an easier transition on the type of riding available to us 
> (easy singletrack, pump tracks, and greenways). I’m definitely onboard with 
> a RivKid offering after seeing the inevitable latest “evolution” of Woom: 
> $750, blacked-out, and be-disc’d…
>
> https://woom.com/en_US/explore-kids-bikes
> On Saturday, September 14, 2024 at 2:23:14 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I was glad to see a new Blahg: 
>> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/grant-petersens-blog/augus-blahg 
>>
>> There otta be a law that Grant has to produce these at least twice 
>> monthly -- it's my second-favorite bicycling screed after Bike Snob.
>>
>> I would have bought a child's bike, even at $900, particularly at the 
>> 2010 dollar equivalent, for my daughter if Rivendell had made them when she 
>> was a child.
>>
>> With very sloping top tube, a stem with long quill, and reachback bar you 
>> could probably get 6 years growth of of the bike, say age 6 to 12. Before 
>> that, kiddie bikes, after that, multigeared bikes or move on to the iPhone.
>>
>> After 3 kiddie 3- and 2-wheelers I bought my daughter an Electra Townie 
>> 3i* with coaster brake and 3 speed Shimano hub for her 10th birthday; she 
>> loved it and the even-slacker-than-Rivendell feet-forward geometry let me 
>> at 5' 10 " ride it comfortably after raising the saddle. That was a well 
>> designed bike -- well designed for its market.
>>
>> * That "i." One is gobsmacked (lovely word) by the absolute lack of 
>> honest in marketing. This monicker was obviously meant (this was 2011) to 
>> pull buyers' emotions to feelings  of 
>> "internet/digital/modern/advanced/praiseworthy" and get them slavering to 
>> hand over $$. But it was a well designed and well built bike for the demo 
>> and price point.
>>
>> Does anyone know *who* is trying to legally ban coaster brakes, and what 
>> their alternative is that they hope to sell in the place of coaster brakes?
>>
>> https://youtu.be/k-tizOwQhMA?t=186
>>
>> Patrick "Ho Hi, Ho Hi" in ABQ, NM
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>>
>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>>
>> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: For the N+1 group

[Mackenzy Albright]

The concept with the builder was to design something akin to a 
bombadil/hunqapillar in fit and setup - but slightly more randonneur (or 
constructeur porteur) in lightweight construction and geometry ALA 
lightning bolt (Jan's mule) I liked how my romancer rode most of the time, 
just don't want discs and the top tube was a bit too short so it really 
struggled with climbing with swept back bars as the front wanted to hop 
constantly even with a 130mm stem. The frame won't necessarily be low trail 
- I left the particularities of geometry with the builder. The idea is with 
a longer wheelbase and a longer, but not rivendell lng chain stay it 
should situate myself more centered in the bike for better climbing and 
comfort but still allow some spring in it's step. 

On Monday, September 16, 2024 at 10:41:29 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Will this be essentially a lighter-weight, more nimble version of the 
> Clem? I'll be very interested to see the final result.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 16, 2024 at 11:30 AM Mackenzy Albright  
> wrote:
>
>> ... +1 (ideally my last bike itch to scratch) is a custom via a builder 
>> in montreal. I wanted a lightweight swept back bar bike with a long top 
>> tube and lightweight tubing for 'spirited riding' - so wanted a shorter 
>> wheelbase unlike the new riv's despite my love for a long wheelbase. This 
>> one is still at the builder
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: For the N+1 group

[Mackenzy Albright]

N+1 is a difficult one. 

My main limitations are realistically space to store given cost of renting 
a place in Vancouver that can accommodate a large number of bikes for 
better or worse. I struggled in the past building up different types of 
bikes in various configurations and was never really felt at home on 
anything which lead to rotation of bikes. Once I traded my Crust Romanceur 
for my Clementine I realized Clementine my all-terrain forever bike (N) - 
which allowed me to be very very specific about my (+1) including not 
feeling like they needed to be practical in any sense. I've set up a few 
rules to guide myself along. 

1. all +1's must be handmade and my size
2. ideally of Canadian / historic lineage or significance 
3. must be a unique, rare design, or one of a kind - more like artwork than 
bikes
4. Must be a good deal 
5. in case of emergency ignore all rules 

- Orange Clementine is my forever bike. Unlike my crust romanceur forever 
bike or my salsa elmariachi forever bike or my salsa fargo forever bike or 
my surly karate monkey forever bike or surly long haul trucker forever bike 
this is absolutely 100% certain my forever bike ;) 

-Marinoni Track (1979-80ish) dated via the stamped Columbus tubing. Early 
non production model with lots of subtle unique features. (no serial no, no 
paperwork)
-Marinoni Time Trial (1986) 700c/650c funny bike. With the UCI banning 
funny bikes these are somewhat rare, they look incredible, and very few 
were produced by Marinoni. (have a copy of the 1986 order form) 
-Syncros Triathalon bike (my guess would be early 90's based off the 650c 
suspension fork and parts) it's entirely custom and hand built aluminum 
frame with a lot of rare 90's syncros parts- the only frame built by 
Syncros as far as anyone knows. I haven't been able to find out much more 
other than the owner worked at syncros and is now deceased. Maybe a 
former machinist? The details on the bike are strange and beautiful. Maybe 
would be more at home in a museum - but not really sure there is anything 
like that in Canada. 
-A Raleigh twenty - mostly because I wanted the porteur rack on it and it 
was cheap - also a bike to "borrow" to visitors and Jason's build was 
pretty inspiring. Not particularly attached. 

+1 (ideally my last bike itch to scratch) is a custom via a builder in 
montreal. I wanted a lightweight swept back bar bike with a long top tube 
and lightweight tubing for 'spirited riding' - so wanted a shorter 
wheelbase unlike the new riv's despite my love for a long wheelbase. This 
one is still at the builder - I am out of storage space - so I may hit up 
my landlord to see if I can rent a corner of her garage but that may open 
up pandora's box of N+1

I am done building bikes after this - I swear. 

I would absolutely cave for a production single speed mtb like an all city 
junkyard dog, original 1x1, bianchi bass, or any 90's early 00's SS mtb 
counterparts. Though - I would most definitely have to get rid of something 
to fit this in. 


On Sunday, September 15, 2024 at 1:41:50 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Late in life after spending untold thousands trying to make bikes that I 
> didn't like in some big or small way into bikes that I liked entirely, I've 
> ended up with 3 customs that take care of all my real needs: gofast road, 
> errand road, and on- and off-road. I don't ride real mountain bike terrain 
> so I don't need a real mtb, and that saves me 1 bike; and I don't race or 
> ride in pacelines and that save me another bike, a gofast derailleur bike.
>
> I finally abandoned thoughts of a Monocog replacement, for single speed 
> drop bar riding over sand up to 4" deep, since the added bike would not be 
> ridden enough and would have liabilities that would make it not worth the 
> hassle of ownership, but I do very much want a nice-riding lock-up-outside 
> beater capable of 2" or at a pinch 3" sand that will be largely invisible 
> to thieves and am thinking of a Clem (I  will continue to think about this 
> as long as I feel like it, so don't rush me, OK?). I've also I've toyed 
> with thoughts of a Brompton. And on day perhaps a bike with electric assist.
>
> But when I think hard about my real needs and interests, for the immediate 
> future the only +1 will be a nice but (somewhat) disposable beater all 
> rounder -- "all" here including said sand.
>

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[RBW] Re: No love for the Albastache?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I still truly believe the choco-moose bar feels exactly how I expected the 
albastash bar to feel and function. It's my favorite *slightly* aggressive 
but comfortable swept back bar. I could never quite dial in the albastache 
despite loving the aesthetics. 

On Friday, September 13, 2024 at 3:14:38 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:

> Upon trying them I instantly realized I wanted more regular style drop 
> bars instead, because they drop and have useful hand positions. 
>
> On Tuesday, September 10, 2024 at 9:24:09 PM UTC-4 Bikie#4646 wrote:
>
>> Thanks for reviving this ol' thread Will. You know how much I love seeing 
>> your beautiful Cannondale regardless of handlebars. I happen to love the 
>> moustache bars on two of my purpose-built bikes, my Sam Hillborne set up 
>> for touring:
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/53726655932/in/album-72177720317070554
>>  
>> and my Homer Hilsen set up for mixed surface riding:
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/53896343476/in/album-72177720319279218
>> I use the Nitto mountain stem on both; 100 mm for touring and 80 mm for 
>> more aggressive riding.
>> I find it interesting that I rarely see these bars used as I use them, 
>> namely, with the ends dropped down a bit. I find this allows me to get 
>> "aero" when I wish and offers plenty of positions. It still allows me to 
>> stretch out on less-than-perfect surfaces, perhaps because I find it allows 
>> better access to the brake hoods and levers.
>> Paul Germain
>> Midlothian, Va.
>>
>> On Friday, September 6, 2024 at 11:21:59 PM UTC-4 Will M wrote:
>>
>>> Revivin' an ol' thread!
>>>
>>> Thanks to all who contributed to this thread because it was about the 
>>> only "review" 2-3 years ago when I was considering the Albastache.
>>>
>>> Some new reviews out:  On the "love" vs. "no love" question, did you see 
>>> that Zack Gallardo recently posted a video review with urban/fixie street 
>>> riding in Taichung, Taiwan using his Alba bars sans levers?  Good review of 
>>> the Alba's pros/cons from the perspective of a strong/young cyclist (listen 
>>> to "I could definitely do a century on these bars, but..." at time 5:00):  
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GhnUxfTakA
>>>
>>> Also recently: Russ/PathLessPedaled found the Alba worked better for him 
>>> after he swapped out the aero levers for VO mtn brake levers:  
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1sVCUMy6rI.  I think I'd do this for 
>>> my next commuter/city build. 
>>>
>>> In my case, I tried the Albastache for the last 2 years on my 
>>> expedition touring bike 
>>> .
>>>  
>>>  For the prior 25 years, the bike had drop bars (tops same height as 
>>> saddle).  At first, I liked the Alba's upright position, but then it 
>>> started feeling "too upright" (half the hand hand positions were simply too 
>>> far back).  On a 63cm touring frame with 59cm top tube, the Albas made we 
>>> want a longer top tube (like the modern Rivs) OR more seatpost setback OR 
>>> more than 80mm reach in the Tallux stem.  Mostly, I missed my drop 
>>> handlebars, for instance, in all-day headwinds in flat eastern-shore 
>>> Maryland, or, say, when you want to PULL HARD on the brake hoods for 
>>> hammering/sprinting/climbing (I never did figure out how to pull hard on 
>>> these bars).  
>>>
>>> I put 48cm Noodles on the bike last month 
>>>  
>>> and... a... that's better.  Just me of course.
>>>
>>> No numbness or anything like that.  In fact, I like the upright riding 
>>> position and will use them on my next city/commuter build.With Russ's 
>>> mtn brake lever trick.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Will M
>>>
>>> On Saturday, September 18, 2021 at 9:43:51 PM UTC-4 Berkeleyan wrote:
>>>
 One more... prompted by Will's email comment today of "properly set up 
 Albastache bars" for long road rides. I keep wondering about best brake 
 placement on these bars. In your opinion, does that mean brake levers are 
 approximately tangent to the same plane, as in Will's picture of the bike 
 they're sending to Philly bike expo? Or do your brakes fall further inside 
 (closer to stem) or outside?

 - Andrew, Berkeley

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Orthos

[Mackenzy Albright]

That is a gorgeous bike! I think the vast majority don't have issues with 
slipping. I wouldn't worry about it UNLESS you have an issue which may be 
partially riding style and habits...I think the main points from the other 
thread are to make sure your stem bolt is greased and you use adequate 
torque to prevent slip but also not so much torque that you over-tighten as 
it could ovalize the bar since it's thin. 

On Friday, September 13, 2024 at 3:16:14 PM UTC-7 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Thanks Ryan!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 13, 2024, at 4:27 PM, Ryan Ogilvie  wrote:
> > 
> > My view is that the single bolt clamps just don’t have a sufficient 
> clamping force to keep the Orthos from slipping. Even if you tighten it so 
> it stays put, you’ve over-torqued the fastener which can lead to bad summer 
> teeth (some’r her, some’r there). A four bolt plate should work, tho.
> > 
> > 
> > Sent from my mobile device.
> > 
> >> On Sep 13, 2024, at 5:04 PM, Andrew Joseph  
> wrote:
> >> 
> >> Bars slippage reports came in at an interesting point for me. 
> >> 
> >> What was the consensus on getting them to stay put? 
> >> 
> >> The Sam rebuild is almost there. Orthos will be angle down slightly 
> more, bar tape and need longer dynamo wires for the Pass and Stow….
> >> 
> >> --
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> .
> >> <74794438703__82188608-16AC-4C68-BCF1-EB91D8A9A83B.heic>
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> 
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Re: [RBW] Puzzled by 2 Rivendell recommendations

[Mackenzy Albright]

I absolutely fell in love with the early Karate Monkey. I have owned 
several set up as fixed gears. I had purchased one with gears on it - and 
it was absolutely the most annoying setup between the discs and derailer 
and eventually stripped it down. I appreciated the idea though. I much 
preferred my salsa el-mariachi with the bushnell eccentric bottom bracket 
for versatilities sake. (Gears never stayed on my mountain bikes long.) It 
was great because you could position the bb higher setting it up fixed for 
reducing pedal strike... 

For a modern fixed gear specific I'd just get a Crust Lightning bolt SS or 
Florida Man. 

BUT - I think the roaduno is super neat as it reminds me a lot of the RSF 
bikes with stallard dropouts. I think an internal real hub like a 
sturmey-archer 3 speed with a compact double crank and paul tensioner would 
be an incredible build. I bought everything to build up a holdsworthy but 
the toe overlap with fenders killed my motivation for the project. Price 
aside the roaduno is the perfect candidate for some fun builds.  


On Thursday, September 12, 2024 at 12:01:35 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Eric
>
> That's interesting.  I think you mean that as kind of a burn, because I'm 
> pretty sure you disapprove of the RoadUno, which you are allowed to do. A 
> few questions though:  Do you have any guess about what fraction of people 
> set up their 2003 Surly Karate Monkeys as single speeds?  Do you think the 
> 2003 Surly Karate Monkey was regarded as a single speed that incidentally 
> had a hanger?  Or do you think it was regarded as a mountain bike, with a 
> single speed option?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, September 11, 2024 at 2:56:06 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> The dropouts might be proprietary, but they're functionally identical to 
>> those on a 2003 Surly Karate Monkey... though I doubt Riv's have the Surly 
>> name cast in.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 11, 2024 at 2:09 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>>> "Wouldn't verticals make the frame less apt for its apparent intended 
>>> use as the single speed signified by the name?"
>>>
>>> This is fascinating.  An individual implicitly shows an utter disregard 
>>> for bicycles' apparent intended use by serially converting all possible 
>>> platforms to fixies.  That individual doubles-down on that disregard by 
>>> brainstorming a way to build a Clem as a fixie.  That same individual then 
>>> makes a post explicitly stating that the only opinion about anything that 
>>> matters is their own opinion.  And then, with extreme earnestness, argues 
>>> that the NAME of a bicycle model pigeonholes the intended use for that 
>>> bicycle.  
>>>
>>> Can you please list the other bicycle models in the history of Earth 
>>> that encode their specific intent in their name?  If that list is empty, 
>>> then why is this the one bike in the history of Earth that is defined by 
>>> your interpretation of its name?
>>>
>>> It has custom proprietary track ends that have a dedicated hanger for a 
>>> tensioner.  I call that the intent that the build include a tensioner.  I 
>>> am pretty sure it is the only production bike on earth with a dedicated 
>>> single-purpose tensioner hanger.  
>>> It is the only current production bike on earth (I'm pretty sure) with a 
>>> solo left-side down tube shifter boss.  I call that the intent that the 
>>> build include a left side shifter.
>>> The complete comes with a triple crank set with two chain rings.  I call 
>>> that the intent that the build include two or three chain rings.  
>>> The complete comes with a single freewheel (1, one, Uno). 
>>> Grant's build is not a single speed.  Grant celebrates and encourages 
>>> using a cool old freebie derailleur as your tensioner.  I call that the 
>>> intent to run it as an Nx1, NxOne, NxUno.  
>>>
>>> I think the primary intent of the RoadUno is a 2x1, and I think that is 
>>> a genius format.  If I had to impart meaning on the name RoadUno, I guess I 
>>> would say it's in reference to the single freewheel in back and the 120mm 
>>> O.L.D.  I also think they had the name and the artwork and the headbadge 
>>> before the bike design was finished in its evolution.  That's why I call my 
>>> RoadUno a RoDeuxNo.  Maybe I'll make decal mods on mine.  
>>>
>>> I think people who want a fixie with a Rivendell head badge on it can 
>>> absolutely get that by building their RoadUno as a fixie.  If that's what 
>>> they decide to do, I hope they love it.   I think people who want a single 
>>> speed A Homer Hilsen can absolutely get that by building up their RoadUno 
>>> as a single speed.  If that's what they do, I hope they love it.  I think 
>>> the clear PRIMARY intent of the RoadUno is a 2x1, and if Riv had gone 
>>> ALL-IN on that primary intent, they would have gone with vertical 
>>> dropouts.  I like the track ends.  I like how they look, and I like that 
>>> they are proprietary.  I like that they look like a monster.  I like 

[RBW] Re: Slipping on swept back handlebars

[Mackenzy Albright]

I've never fully trusted tallux stems for swept back off road use. A steel 
stem gives a bit more confidence with added stiffness. I've had great luck 
with a single bolt 130mm Ritchey in the past on trail riding. Make sure the 
bolt is greased well so it snugs up with the least amount of resistance as 
possible so you run less change of slippage. If I recall Jason said it's 
about a 30% increase of clamp force vs dry. You should be careful not to 
over-tighten as bolt snapping can become an issue if you're not careful. 

I think also take into account Grants philosophy of "ride like a Mongolian" 
- try to use balance and position over the bike to give nimbleness and 
lightness to the bar over obstacles and smooth out your riding vs heavy 
handed leveraging the bars for all your movements. Drops are where it does 
get exceedingly tricky - but adapting riding to the equipment is half the 
fun. 

On Tuesday, September 10, 2024 at 11:51:10 AM UTC-7 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

> Are you sure about the clamp diameter on the swept-back bars you have? 
> What is the brand? 
> If the bar is chromed or even highly polished, that can create a smooth 
> enough surface that slippage is a problem. 
> I will point you to "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" to the 
> description of the shim... 
> Might just be all you need. 
>
> Jim
> On Tuesday, September 10, 2024 at 11:45:45 AM UTC-7 ethan...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I just put some swept back handlebars on my bicycle and I am having 
>> trouble with slipping. The handlebars sweep back 7 inches or so with a 26mm 
>> clamp diameter. My stem is a nitto tallux and I'm switching in an old 130mm 
>> Ritchey stem for more reach, but I'm still worried about the bar slipping. 
>> Is there a good solution for gripping big bars that increase torque at the 
>> stem clamp, especially when riding on gravel/off-road? 
>>
>> I might be able to tighten it more, but I'm worried that going tighter 
>> will strip or deform the bolt. Do folks ever use thread-locker or some 
>> adhesive for extra stick? Or do I need a 2-4 bolt faceplate stem for the 
>> extra gripping strength?
>>
>> Let me know if you have any tips/tricks/ideas! Thanks,
>>
>> Ethan
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

[Mackenzy Albright]

As many others mentioned above and the previous thread - for a particular 
sort of riding the wheelbase increases stability, ride quality, and 
traction immensely. When I first started tinkering with an upright fit I 
found short wheelbase bikes to be too light in the front climbing and 
leaning forward reduced traction. I've found since switching that the long 
wheel base allows a degree of upright riding that still allows a somewhat 
nimble ride, and increase confidence in traction going up and down steep 
and loose sections of trail, and in general less chatter.  I really like 
the way I can lean into descents in loose terrain with confidence. It's 
really a large improvement on the ATB (all terrain bike / hillibike) that 
isn't time trial driven.

For cons (again as mentioned) - most places aren't that bike friendly for 
storage / locking in the first place. May as well be tandem. For really 
technical riding popping the front up over obstacles (curbs / roots / small 
trees) is much more unintuitive. However - I wouldn't exactly pick 
Clementine for this sort of riding. I'd much more likely pop through the 
step through while rolling, grab the down tube, pop over, and jump back on 
CX style. 

I think Grant is absolutely opening up a conversation that we all too often 
get sucked into racing based trends and rarely look outside the box. I'll 
beat this poor dead horse - but definitely think that the larger industry 
will pick up on longer wheelbase bikes for certain types of riding and 
terrain - just maybe not Clem Smith Jr length. 

On Sunday, September 8, 2024 at 9:27:00 AM UTC-7 Nick Payne wrote:

> One potential problem with long chainstays is trying to fit the bike in 
> spaces designed around standard bike dimensions. For example, when our 
> house was built, I got the builder to install a rack along the side of the 
> garage so that that our bikes could be hung from their front or rear 
> wheels, and set the height so that the longest of my bikes had two or three 
> inches clearance to the floor. Any higher and my wife has problems lifting 
> her bikes onto the hooks. But the Appaloosa I bought back in 2021 is so 
> long that I can't hang it from the front wheel as the back wheel hits the 
> ground with the bike a long way from vertical - the only way to hang it is 
> by the rear wheel with the front wheel turned quite a bit sideways, but 
> that doesn't work so well if I have other bikes on either side. Same 
> problem on Swiss and Austrian trains, where the height of the hooks in 
> carriages for hanging your bike is insufficient for these long chainstays. 
> Not a problem with bikes on regional trains in Italy, as you just wheel 
> your bike on and park it at the side of the carrriage. However, at Brescia 
> railway station this morning, I had to carry my bike up and down the stairs 
> to get to our platform, as even with the front wheel turned, the lifts were 
> not long enough for an Appaloosa. My wife's bike fitted no problem.
>
> Nick Payne
>

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Re: [RBW] Silver shifter surgery and corrosive metal welding

[Mackenzy Albright]

I've been looking into this more for fun - because why not? 

It seems like using a non metallic barrier (aka) grease may be preferable 
to metallic such as copper or aluminum. Wax may also work well too. At the 
end of the day most answers were referred to regular maintenance especially 
in wet climates is a necessity. places where they are not maintained and 
sit indefinitely are a big nono as galvanization is almost a given. 

I'll probably keep using my crank caps but will make sure to remove and 
regrease bi-yearly.

On Friday, September 6, 2024 at 10:02:27 AM UTC-7 J wrote:

> Good coverage here. I stopped using brass bits on bikes a few years ago 
> after a single brass ferrule issue, and I always wondered if anyone else 
> had issues as the rise of brass bling took hold in recent years.
>
> On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 10:44:41 AM UTC-4 Jim in Mpls wrote:
>
>> I also grease the cable heads(which I believe are zinc?) to help prevent 
>> seizing in the shifter bodies.
>>
>> Jim in Mpls
>>
>> On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 8:30:50 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks to everyone for your replies and notes on galvanic corrosion and 
>>> otherwise! 
>>>
>>> I haven't greased any of my brass ferrules. I did liberally grease my 
>>> brass Blue Lug crank caps, tho. I have considered greasing them or coating 
>>> them with some Renaissance Wax which certainly couldn't hurt but I worry 
>>> about the longevity of the wax. In some instances, depending on how the 
>>> ferrules interface with parts, it could be very difficult to re-wax or 
>>> re-grease the spot where brass and aluminum meet. 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 11:05:59 PM UTC-4 Michael Baquerizo 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 citing another instance of brass ferrule stuck in a deore RD, this time 
 in NYC (where summers and winters can both be humid)
 On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 6:41:25 PM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

>
> Hey eric, 
>
> Yeah ive had similar issues. Had a mildly stuck cable end in a silver 
> 2, think i was able to get it out with a needle and small hammer, 
> basically 
> punched it out. Noticed the brass ferrule corrosion too. I’m still 
> working 
> through a stash of them, but ive also been getting over my brass 
> preference 
> in favor of lightweight aluminum where reasonable, like headset spacers. 
> I’ll have to check my brass crank extractor caps as mentioned by others…
> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 2:17:25 PM UTC-7 Danny wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the write-up Eric. I'll give my brass parts a once over a 
>> couple times a year after reading this. Did you grease your ferrule 
>> exteriors before installing?
>>
>> I typically give any brass part a liberal greasing before installing, 
>> which in theory should help prevent, or at least slow galvanic 
>> corrosion. 
>> But maybe areas that see more moisture like crank caps/extractors need 
>> more 
>> frequent attention.
>>
>> -Danny
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 4, 2024 at 4:07 PM AppaLanta  wrote:
>>
>>> @Patrick, perhaps these kind of products...
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.cytech.training/uploaded_files/study_documents/7.%20Lubricants%20and%20Greases.pdf
>>>
>>> ...suggesting a copper-based grease to be used between dissimilar 
>>> metals.  This seems like a prevention of the symptom (corrosion) rather 
>>> than the cause (using dissimilar metals when similar could be used in 
>>> the 
>>> first place)?
>>>
>>> @Eric, thanks for this post.  I forgot to say - I really appreciate 
>>> your videos!
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 4:45:27 PM UTC-4 
>>> philip@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 A friend swore off the brass self extractors (White Industries, 
 Blue Lug, Etc.) for exactly these same reasons. 

 He’s been encouraging me to do the same for over a year now.

 I really should replace the two sets I have, even here in arid 
 Southern California.

 P. W.
 ~
 (917) 514-2207
 ~




 On Sep 4, 2024, at 1:29 PM, Patrick Moore  
 wrote:

 

 Eric: Thanks for the clear and comprehensive description and the 
 warning about brass-on-aluminum.

 Remark: I am so very glad that high humidity where I live is 50% 
 and that's seasonal and rare.

 Question (to all): are there not marine greases or applications 
 made precisely to prevent such corrosion?

 Patrick Moore, who had a very nice late "monsoon" mid-afternoon 
 ride just now at an about-normal 90*F and 23% humidity in a very 
 comfortable ss wool jersey.

 On Wed, Sep 4, 2024 at 9:58 AM Eric Marth  
 wrote:

 

Re: [RBW] Silver shifter surgery and corrosive metal welding

[Mackenzy Albright]

h. This got me thinking about my beloved Blue Lug brass crank caps on 
my riv silver cranks - especially living in the pacific northwest. 

Curious of ample grease and yearly teardown will prevent the galvanic 
corrosion. 


On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 1:29:48 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Eric: Thanks for the clear and comprehensive description and the warning 
> about brass-on-aluminum.
>
> Remark: I am so very glad that high humidity where I live is 50% and 
> that's seasonal and rare.
>
> Question (to all): are there not marine greases or applications made 
> precisely to prevent such corrosion?
>
> Patrick Moore, who had a very nice late "monsoon" mid-afternoon ride just 
> now at an about-normal 90*F and 23% humidity in a very comfortable ss wool 
> jersey.
>
> On Wed, Sep 4, 2024 at 9:58 AM Eric Marth  wrote:
>
>> *Before we begin I must admit that I should have documented the process 
>> below in greater detail. I realize it would have made for video content 
>> that at least a few people here would have found worthwhile. This 
>> mechanical occurred as I was trying to sneak in a 90 minute ride before it 
>> got dark and I was determined to get it resolved as quickly as I could 
>> without stopping for pictures or documentation. *
>>
>> *I have a few questions about the problems I encountered. Rather than 
>> searching the Web for answers I've included my questions below, hopeful 
>> that forum members can share their knowledge. In addition to expertise on 
>> bicycles I'm aware that some members are scientists and engineers who might 
>> have fun pockets of information to share with the group. *
>>
>> I run Silver bar end shifters on my Sam Hillborne. Recently I left for a 
>> ride and once I got a few blocks from my house I realized the front 
>> derailer was rubbing the chain. When I went to trim the gear the shift 
>> lever slipped into the relaxed position and dropped the chain to the small 
>> ring up front. I tightened the wingnut to restore tension but there was no 
>> tension to be found. I had an idea of what was going on: the ratchet was 
>> clogged with corrosion, preventing the spring from engaging the pawl. I 
>> rode home in a very easy gear. 
>>
>> Back in the shop I loosened the clamp bolt on the front derailer to free 
>> the cable. When I went to pull the cable out of the shifter lever it 
>> wouldn't budge. The head of the shifter cable had chemically bonded to the 
>> lever itself. I removed the nuts and bolts that hold the lever to the 
>> bar-end shifter pod. I should note that I had previously replaced the 
>> external plastic nut cover with a brass counter-sink washer. I think the 
>> presence of the brass encouraged corrosion. I then struggled to get the 
>> cable out even with the lever freed from the pod. 
>>
>> I then noticed that the brass ferrule I'd used at the end of the shift 
>> cable housing had bonded to the bar-end pod. I now had two instances of 
>> dissimilar metals bonding together. 
>>
>> I snipped the shift cable, pinched the loose end with pliers and tried to 
>> wiggle and finesse it free. No luck! I tried to drill out the head of the 
>> cable, that also didn't work. I decided to abandon the shifter and salvage 
>> the innards for parts. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_2311.JPG]   [image: IMG_2309.JPG]
>> *Terrible pictures showing drilled head of shifter cable and snipped off 
>> cable stuck in lever.*
>>
>> I store my bikes in my shed, an unconditioned and uninsulated space in 
>> Virginia. It is very humid here. The spot where I hang my Hillborne seems 
>> to attract a lot of moisture and I really need to find another place to 
>> store that bike. Sometimes when it rains the handlebars feel damp and 
>> corrosion forms around the seatpost collar, on the chaingring bolts and the 
>> rear dropouts. The roof of my shed does not leak. I think the rust 
>> accumulation has to do with ventilation issues and related to the bicycle 
>> hanging between a door and a window, there must be some kind of draft 
>> situation going on and that spot is a real moisture magnet. I don't have 
>> the same problem with other bikes I hang in adjacent spots. 
>>
>> *What causes the shifter cable head to bond to the lever? What materials 
>> are the shifter cable head and Silver shifter levers made from? Do the 
>> dissimilar metals encourage bonding when moisture is present? What causes 
>> the brass to bond to the bar-end shifter pod?*
>>
>> In my video about repairing Pam's Silver shifters 
>>  I mentioned corrosion 
>> as a potential problem with a Silver shifter that doesn't hold tension. 
>> Here was an opportunity to show the world! I was frustrated and eager to 
>> get it fixed quickly. Setting up to make a video really bogs things down. 
>>
>> I took the lever with the cold-welded shifter cable stuck inside and 
>> pried it open. Indeed, the spring was clogged with corrosion. The corrosion 
>> was chalky and white, 

Re: [RBW] Re: Clem musings

[Mackenzy Albright]

Patrick - I run 2.3 with honjo flat 65's on my clementine. I had previously 
installed 2.4 tires no fenders with plenty of clearance. I definitely could 
have installed 2.5 easily - maaaybe 2.6. I briefly owned a newer Clem jr 
and clearance was identical.

I think the initial marketing of the Clem (entine)+(jr) was based around 
smaller tires (50mm) and fenders. People realized they have ample tire 
clearance for large tires and people started building them more as capable 
hillibikes vs city cruisers. 

On Friday, August 30, 2024 at 6:26:17 AM UTC-7 Kim H. wrote:

> @Patrick
> When I owned a 59cm Clem, I ran 29x2.25 Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires with 
> no fenders. 
>
>
> https://www.merlincycles.com/en-us/schwalbe-racing-ralph-super-race-tle-addix-speed-evo-folding-mtb-tyre-29-216800.html?utm_campaign=googlebase-US&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=Mountain+Bike+Tyres&ucpo=134396
>
> Kim Hetzel.
> On Thursday, August 29, 2024 at 7:47:58 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Thanks Ray for this and the link; I read the content through again. That 
>> means that, if the 59 is the best size for my uses -- need to get my 
>> brother to help me measure PBH after all these years -- I could use my 
>> leftover ultralight 60 mm 700C Big Ones under fenders on a Clem.
>>
>> One problem solved. Though the problem of turning a beater into something 
>> too precious to lock up remains as does the bar question and the drivetrain 
>> question -- no common derailleur system for me. That's my plan: a well used 
>> frameset to build into a nice riding beater, tho' the complete builds 
>> offered by Riv are surprisingly cheap.
>>
>> I'm close to asking onlist for offers of well used and well-beausaged 59 
>> cm Clem framesets.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 29, 2024 at 7:19 PM Ray Varella  wrote:
>>
>>> Patrick,
>>> Somewhere I recall seeing Grant had put 2.6” knobbies on one of his 
>>> Clems. 
>>> I have 60mm G-ones on mine and they have plenty of clearance. 
>>> I would encourage you to visit Riv in person, flights are cheap if 
>>> you’re willing to hunt for deals and both San Francisco and Oakland 
>>> airports have BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) stations and Riv is just a 
>>> block or two from the Walnut Creek station. 
>>> Imagine being able to do all your fretting in person and take some test 
>>> rides. 
>>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: A FSA Duron issue, or head tube reaming/facing needed..or both?

[Mackenzy Albright]

The only time I've had an issue was a paint gloob on a new bike. Since then 
I've always just carefully filed the paint flat and mashed away at the 
headset with a hammer and block of wood and a bunch of grease trusting the 
machining is correct on the frame and headset. I know you're supposed to 
ream - but never had any other issues. I have heard of head tubes being 
uneven on some production bikes. Is the frame new or used? 

On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 3:17:07 PM UTC-7 Igor wrote:

> https://imgur.com/a/L25QKmf
> Here you go
>
> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 4:40:07 PM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> None of the photos show the top of the head tube lug and the insertion of 
>> the top bearing cup. But this is what I would expect to see if the top 
>> bearing cup was not installed with the proper bearing press, OR, if the top 
>> of the head tube was not properly machined, just like the Bleriot frames 
>> from a few years ago that I described last week.
>>
>> Let's see a few photos clearly showing the interface between the bearing 
>> cups and the head tube.
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 4:30 PM Igor  wrote:
>>
>>> I've tried a few different ways. Some say to do two at once, other's say 
>>> one at a time. If one at a time then at least one of them will be in 
>>> parallel to the head tube, and then when one does the other one.. it'll be 
>>> parallel to the other cup that's already pressed (in theory ;) )
>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 4:27:53 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>>
 Igor, Did you install both cups at the same time with a heasdset press, 
 to ensure they're parallel ?  Even if you're using a DIY Rod, washer and 
 nut press you can eyeball it and adjust the rod position to get them in 
 straight. Grease in between the frame/cups helps immensely also, if you 
 had 
 not used any. 

 This assumes the headset is made correctly to begin with ! 
 On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 4:05:03 PM UTC-4 Igor wrote:

> I installed a new FSA Duron-X headset on a new (non-Riv) frame and 
> noticed that the top nut and top cup are not parallel to one another. 
>
> [image: IMG_1978.heic.jpeg]
> I popped the cups out, tried a few more times, and eventually got it a 
> bit better, but still not perfect.
>
> [image: IMG_1998.jpeg]
>
> I then checked my Clem Smith and noticed that, while better than my 
> nTh attempt, also not perfectly straight (barely noticeable..came to me 
> from Riv that way, I assume from the factory).
>
> Someone mentioned to me that their Riv with the headset also has this 
> same crookedness, very slight... I plan to take the bike to the shop to 
> have them take a look but, what is your experience? Is this a headset 
> issue 
> you've seen on your FSA as well?
>
 -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Peter White
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your thoughts on a Rivesdale (Riv + Clydesdale)?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Agreed with Jason here. Great with bulky hauls - but the Clydesdale fork 
wasn't the answer to hauling heavy loads that I desired. I much prefer a 
Burley flatbed trailer. I'd consider another Clydesdale fork if I had a 
cute lil dog tho. 

That being said - that ClemClydes is always inspirational. I think Clyde's 
builds look awesome and definitely serve a niche for some people and I 
respect that. 

On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 9:12:05 AM UTC-7 NYCbikeguy wrote:

> I get the concerns surrounding heavy cargo. I don't foresee heavy or long 
> hauls on some sort of tour or anything. It'll most likely be for 
> convenience rides!
> Also the Crustendell looks cooler after checking out the build process. 
> I've heard of the steerstopper before but your build convinced me that it's 
> a pretty cool investment over the VO spring!
>
> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 11:49:13 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> For more information on my conversion enter “Crustendell” in the search 
>> bar. I did some previous write-ups.  I think that I changed the front disc 
>> caliper to a Paul after I did the write-ups. 
>> Note that I am all torso - 6’ with an 83.5 PBH and 68 years old, so for 
>> an electric city cargo bike, I want to be very upright so that I can rotate 
>> my body to see around me. If there were any hills in south Florida, I would 
>> not feel as comfortable being so upright while descending. 
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 4:01 AM John Johnson  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a couple rivs (clems) and a clydesdale 
>>>  
>>> built around an MB-1 frame.
>>>
>>> I agree with Jason that handling worsens with weight up front. If you 
>>> want to conserve the ride ofnyour Hunq/AR/Atlantis, then I'd go with a 
>>> cheap 90s MTB and make a project out of it. If you don't care, use a riv! 
>>> Aesthetically, why not? Sal from shovel research has the best clydesdale 
>>> conversion ever IMO with the rosco bubbe 
>>> .
>>>  
>>> And Laing's clem is excellent. 
>>>
>>> About handling, I had a flat bar on mine at first and found the handling 
>>> to be twitchy. I like it much better now with Klunker bars (and Albatross 
>>> bars worked great too).
>>>
>>> As for utility and fun, it's the most useful bike I own and the one I 
>>> ride most (anytime I'm not sure where or what I'll be doing, it's nice to 
>>> have a big old basket up front to throw stuff into). But I'm glad to have 
>>> other bikes for dedicated offroad rides or fast road rides. It's also by 
>>> far my ugliest bike.
>>>
>>> Either way, it's a super fun format for a build.
>>>
>>> Cheers,  
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 5:10:22 AM UTC+3 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>
 Hah, I didn't scroll down to see Laing's Clem L before writing my 
 previous post. 

 On Sunday 25 August 2024 at 19:09:24 UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:

> I've considered doing this as well. I had the opportunity to own a 
> Surly with a Clydesdale fork but ended up not keeping it long term 
> because 
> I found that when loaded up beyond about 20 lbs, it didn't handle very 
> well, and for my purposes it made more sense to load up a pair of roomy 
> panniers most of the time. It's certainly a nice way to carry bulky, 
> lower 
> density loads and there is a joy in just tossing stuff in the big basket 
> / 
> bin on the front, but overall my feedback would be: it's not going to 
> entirely ruin a Rivendell or anything, nor is a Rivendell *that* 
> sacred (I might catch hell for saying such things), but I think the 
> combination of the aesthetic and functional drawbacks will get you in the 
> end. The one bike I'd totally try one on, despite all I've said so far, 
> is 
> the Clem L. That would be a neat rig. For most people I think a Pass & 
> Stow 
> makes more sense though. 
>
> On Sunday 25 August 2024 at 10:28:28 UTC-7 NYCbikeguy wrote:
>
>> I've become more of a utilitarian over the years in outlook and 
>> lifestyle and I love the idea of a cargo bike. But I'm not sure the 
>> Rivbike 
>> ethos meshes well with that of a cargo bike. Either way, I got the 
>> opportunity to get one for cheap and so I'm thinking I'm 
>> contemplating 
>> whether I should even try it on a riv or just go straight for the 
>> vintage 
>> MTB. What do you all think? Will there be too much of a clash between 
>> the 
>> brutalist utilitarian fork and the classy lugs of a Rivbike?
>>
>> Best,
>> IY
>> NYC/CT
>>
>> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr vs Polyvalent Lowkicker?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I'm on team Clem jr and will never part with mine. I think the low kicker 
is a beautiful bike and would not be a bad choice either. 

I find a big deal breaker for some is often access to bike racks on cars 
and transit and storage due to wheelbase. If these are not a concern I'd go 
with a Clem purely on my personal preferences. I really enjoy the extra top 
tube which gives adjustment vs putting the longest possible stem on a bike. 

On Monday, August 19, 2024 at 10:24:58 AM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> I’ve used a Wald basket mounted to a Tumbleweed “T” rack on the front of 
> my Clem L & the rear of my Gus. In both cases I also utilized the triple 
> mounts of the rack to support King “many things” cages to hold my fork 
> mounted bags. The front wheel flop on the Clem was far more noticeable than 
> any tail wag on the Gus. Having said that, neither bothered me much. Both 
> bikes handled the load well.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 19, 2024, at 11:17 AM, Chris Halasz  wrote:
>
> 
>
> I assume someone pregnant prefers a more upright position, irrespective of 
> its declared benefits to the health of one's pelvic floor (important to me, 
> anyway), and overall spinal and wrist comfort (subjective, I suppose). It 
> makes sense then to extend the chainstay, and so proportionately the 
> overall triangle from the center of mass of the more upright cyclist and 
> the bicycle wheelbase. 
>
> Likewise, it makes more sense for the cyclist who rides low and in the 
> drops to ride a shorter chainstay and so a shorter wheelbase than the Clem. 
>
> At barely 6'1", with an 89cm PBH, my 64cm Clem L has a more accessible 
> 'step-through' than my 60cm Platypus, and, to me, the Platypus appears to 
> have much more step-through access than the Lowkicker. I don't see how one 
> could really step through the Lowkicker without considerably tilting the 
> bike. 
>
> - Chris 
> On Monday, August 19, 2024 at 7:13:54 AM UTC-7 DJC wrote:
>
>> Paul,
>>
>> I own both the Polyvalent and the Clem Smith H; I've also built up for 
>> others the Polyvalent low-kicker and the Clem L. The Clem has a laid back, 
>> swoopy feel; it's equally comfortable on the road or in the dirt, whereas 
>> the Polyvalent feels snappier and more nimble. That's doesn't mean the Clem 
>> is sluggish, but rather it's not as "fast" handling as the Poly. I'm 
>> selling my Polyvalent because it's too close to other bikes in my stable; 
>> the Clem is a forever bike for me. Another consideration will be the fit; 
>> the Clem has a very generous headtube / stack compared to the Polyvalent, 
>> plus with the Clem you get the advantage of the quill stem for setting the 
>> front-end height
>>
>> Both are lovely bikes, but very different in design and riding 
>> characteristics. Remember that the Polyvalent is a "low-trail" bike, but to 
>> the higher end of the range, which makes it more neutral in handling 
>> compared to low low-trail bikes. It handles a front load better than a rear 
>> load, but still manages a light rear load well. The Clem is a rear loader 
>> primarily, and capable of a light front load. I've chosen the Clem because 
>> it's become a groovy analog trail bike that compliments my Gus Boots 
>> nicely. However, I did have the Clem build as a city commuter for a couple 
>> of years and it was very capable.
>>
>> Best, 
>> Dave
>>
>> On Sunday, August 18, 2024 at 9:25:38 PM UTC-4 paulje...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> [image: Screenshot 2024-08-18 at 5.41.07 PM.png]Hello-
>>>
>>> I'm considering getting a step-thru bike for my partner. She's pregnant 
>>> and her normal touring bike is feeling less and less comfortable. We're 
>>> looking at the size 64 Clem Smith Jr or the XL Velo Orange Polyvalent 
>>> Lowkicker. She's 6'3 with 97 PBH.
>>>
>>> I was wondering if anyone here might be able to say how the ride quality 
>>> might be different on the two bikes? Or if there are reasons I should 
>>> consider one over the other?
>>>
>>> We mostly ride on pavement on country roads and the occasional 
>>> dirt/gravel road. The Clem looks longer which I imagine would make it more 
>>> stable? I imagine this might be nice if we eventually put a baby seat on 
>>> the back. 
>>>
>>> The Polyvalent Lowkicker uses 650b wheels and I'm a little concerned 
>>> with toe overlap as it looks like a shorter wheelbase. I know the 
>>> Polyvalent uses more modern standards like thru axles and disc brakes for 
>>> better or worse. I like that the Polyvalent is a bit more affordable but 
>>> the Rivendell seems like more of a classic. I'd be grateful for any 
>>> suggestions.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Paul
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto R14 bent, bummer, warranty?

[Mackenzy Albright]

One time I hit a bit of sagging telecom line on a bike path that was 
obscured in the sun. It had detached partially from a garage. 
I got clothes-lined off my bike and the bike slid into a curve bending my 
custom stainless porteur rack with a wald basket. I was able to cold set 
the struts and straighten the platform within an acceptable margin. It held 
up fine - it was never quite as *square*. I also had my fav local shop 
check over the bike post crash for any structural issues which fortunately 
everything was A Ok. (Me too minus a slight concussion and black eye) 

Replacement struts aren't that expensive either, if you have a shop that 
deals with nitto or a reason to order from riv/bluelug. I think it'd be 
fine as a bag support. Given it's steel it shouldn't catastrophically fail. 
I do regularly inspect my bikes though. 
On Monday, July 29, 2024 at 7:19:26 PM UTC-7 brenton...@gmail.com wrote:

> I straightened everything out and will try using it again. I get what Nick 
> is saying, that the front is the weak spot. I can keep my skateboard 
> strapped further towards the back, and I’ll find a better spot for my lock. 
> I’ll report back after I take the bike+board out again. 
>
> On Jul 29, 2024, at 7:05 PM, Nick Payne  wrote:
>
> 
>
> You can buy the rack struts as spare parts. I did that a while ago when I 
> moved one of those racks from a bike with 26" wheels to an Appaloosa with 
> 622 wheels, and as I'd shortened the struts on the 26" bike so that they 
> didn't protrude past the rack top, they were no longer long enough to clear 
> the rear wheel on the Appaloosa.
>
> But I've never considered that rack as one that should have much weight on 
> it, particularly not if you have the weight towards the front of the rack. 
> I just use it under saddlebags to stabilise them and prevent them sagging 
> onto the wheel.
>
> Nick Payne
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Canadian's in the house

[Mackenzy Albright]

.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 10:05:04 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Checking in from Vancouver BC as well! 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I've bought three Rivs direct from Walnut Creek and one off Joe on 
>>>>>>>>> the list here.  If I ever find myself buying another Riv (shouldn't 
>>>>>>>>> ... but 
>>>>>>>>> never say never) I would certainly consider getting thru CL Cycles. 
>>>>>>>>> Not 
>>>>>>>>> sure it would be much cheaper in the end but maybe a little saved on 
>>>>>>>>> import 
>>>>>>>>> fees. 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> While there's not a lot of Rivendell presence around here, I'm 
>>>>>>>>> lucky to see the odd one in my travels .. I haven't kept track but 
>>>>>>>>> I'd say 
>>>>>>>>> the tally is somewhere around 15 - 20.  
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Monday 15 July 2024 at 16:21:38 UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Welcome, Jay!
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I'm out near Nelson, BC. I bought my Hunqapillar from Riv, but I 
>>>>>>>>>> went to the US and picked it up. My Atlantis came from a list 
>>>>>>>>>> member, but I 
>>>>>>>>>> also had it shipped to a US address. 
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Cheers, John
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 10:33:42 AM UTC-7 Matt wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I’m in Kingston, Ontario.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 1:13:57 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright 
>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Vancouver here. Ive ordered Riv parts from blue-lug (better 
>>>>>>>>>>>> stock of Riv handlebars and cheaper), occasionally C&L, a few 
>>>>>>>>>>>> orders direct 
>>>>>>>>>>>> from Walnut Creek. I usually try to get a few people in on an 
>>>>>>>>>>>> order. Both 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Riv's i've owned and a fair amount of parts have been second hand 
>>>>>>>>>>>> local 
>>>>>>>>>>>> owners. 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 9:54:33 AM UTC-7 saxt...@gmail.com 
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Canadian here in Dundas, bought my first Riv in 2012 direct, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> was off a bike for a number of years finally back in the saddle 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> and looking 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> to consolidate my 3 older riv frames into a multipurpose bike, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> still 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> working through the decision tree of which one.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 10:51:42 AM UTC-4 Jay wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Damien - if you ever see someone on a dark gold Roadini, it's 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> probably me!  At least once a week I'm riding on the east side 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of Guelph.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 9:53:46 AM UTC-4 Damien wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Kitchener-Waterloo, Ontario here. I've ordered two Rivs 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> direct, and have purchased a few from fellow members of this 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> group! I've 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> seen exactly two Rivendells in town (a fellow with a Cheviot in 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> DT 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Kitchener, and a lady with I think an older Atlantis probably 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 10-12 years 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ago near Uptown Waterloo)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Monday 15 July 2024 at 09:30:01 UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Winnipeg, Manitoba and I ordered my 3 Rivs direct from 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Walnut Creek
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sunday, July 14, 2024 at 2:36:12 PM UTC-5 Jay wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I joined the group back in January and don't recall 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> spotting many posts from my fellow Canadians, eh.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Just seeing who is in Canada?  If you're from SW Ontario, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> maybe we can arrange a ride one day; I've never seen a 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Rivendell in the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wild.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you have a Riv, did you order direct from them, through 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> C&L in Montreal, other?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

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Re: [RBW] WTF a 26.0 Albastache for my questionable Canti Rom?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I had substantial crack in the paint of my Clementine. My curiosity got to 
me eventually and I sanded down the paint to the tubing and luckily the 
frame was totally fine - I did realize how terrible the factory paint was 
though. It was a substantial piece of mind knowing my frame wasn't toast vs 
my terrible touch up. 

On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 11:00:32 AM UTC-7 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Huh, weird.
>
> In my limited experince, a front end hit is usually pretty obvious if 
> you're looking for it.  I would also expect the damage to be right at the 
> lug tip, and it doesn't look to me like it is.  Irregardless, I really 
> doubt whatever that is will ever be a (non-emotional) issue and it's easy 
> to keep an eye on.  I would ride i with extreme prejudice...
>
> Doug
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 10, 2024 at 2:53 PM 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> I may have made a hasty purchase and ended up with a bum frame. But I'm 
>> going to try to make the best of it.
>>
>> So...I parted ways with my 26" Atlantis a while back in hopes to find a 
>> 55-56ish 700c Hillborne (short stay) to replace it. I watched Riv, and the 
>> used market for literally years, and just kept missing them. I fell short 
>> of a wanted ad, as I didnt really NEED one and figured it would pop up one 
>> day. Well, I sort of gave up and stopped checking. However, as age, and 
>> circumstances will do, I am now creeping closer to the need of a more 
>> upright and comfortable bike. I check in here and BOOM...a new run of short 
>> stay Hillbornes!! AND they're sold out in my size. Ugh. 
>>
>> Deflated, I go back to trolling the used market, and my first search 
>> brings up a 55 Canti Rom...20 minutes from me. THIS would do nicely and was 
>> a previous target of obsessive searching. The seller informs me there's a 
>> brake lever ding on the TT and dent on the seat stay. Not deterred, we plan 
>> to meet. 75yo gentleman who clearly has ridden some bikes, and seems to be 
>> a DIY mechanic. Bike looks good, albeit with an odd build. Not Rivvy, but 
>> more hodgepodge of commuter/2000 road bike. Rode fine, set up was not 
>> comfortable for me but the frame fit, the dents were unfortunate but not 
>> apparently damaging. We strike a deal, and I bring it home.
>>
>> The lay of the land: 
>> Threadless adaptor with super upright stem and Noodle bars which I do not 
>> like
>> Thorn proof tubes and 28c rock hard commuter tires
>> BIG gel saddle on a layback post
>> Canti rear, side pull front
>>
>> All of this meant, I needed some time to strip it all down, acquire some 
>> parts, and rebuild to my preference. No worries...until I got to it a few 
>> weeks later.
>>
>> After stripping it mostly down, I started to clean the frame and noticed 
>> a bizarre, what I thought was a scratch, in the paint on the top tube just 
>> at the end of the head tube lug point. Looking closer, its more like the 
>> paint is crackled or scrunched. My gut sank. I immediately checked under 
>> the DT for a bulge or other signs of front impact. Nothing. Seems totally 
>> fine. But the TT really looks odd. I've worked in shops for 30 years and 
>> have seen many cracks, dents etc...generally there's apparent trauma you 
>> can trace to other areas, but this is a new one to me being isolated. The 
>> other oddity that may be normal on these...is that the TT feels like it's 
>> externally butted to fit the HT lug. Nothing massive, but just a slightly 
>> perceptible increase in OD right about the point of the lug. Imagination? 
>> By design? Bulged from impact? No idea.
>>
>> All that said, I am bummed, but absolutely hold no ill will towards the 
>> seller. I truly believe he had no idea and was completely up front with the 
>> damage he knew about. AND it could just be a scratch or other paint 
>> anomaly. Yes, I could have the paint stripped back and find someone 
>> knowledgeable to inspect it, but I feel like the options in the end are the 
>> same...spend more than the frame is worth to repair it, or just ride it and 
>> "keep an eye on it". I'm thinking the latter is the better way.
>>
>> I have tried to get a photo of the offending area but it's elusive. I 
>> will try some different lighting to see if I can capture it and follow up.
>>
>> Which brings me to my inquiry. I would like to try an AlbaStache and I 
>> have two great stems I could use that are both 26.0do I remember 
>> correctly there were some original batches with that clamp size or no? I'd 
>> prefer not to shim, and would ultimately just get a 25.4 stem if need be. 
>> Trying to limit the losses on this one now.
>>
>> So IF they exist, does anyone have a set they'd be willing to sell? Or on 
>> the longer shot, a bar/stem?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Canadian's in the house

[Mackenzy Albright]

Vancouver here. Ive ordered Riv parts from blue-lug (better stock of Riv 
handlebars and cheaper), occasionally C&L, a few orders direct from Walnut 
Creek. I usually try to get a few people in on an order. Both Riv's i've 
owned and a fair amount of parts have been second hand local owners. 
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 9:54:33 AM UTC-7 saxt...@gmail.com wrote:

> Canadian here in Dundas, bought my first Riv in 2012 direct, was off a 
> bike for a number of years finally back in the saddle and looking to 
> consolidate my 3 older riv frames into a multipurpose bike, still working 
> through the decision tree of which one.
>
> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 10:51:42 AM UTC-4 Jay wrote:
>
>> Damien - if you ever see someone on a dark gold Roadini, it's probably 
>> me!  At least once a week I'm riding on the east side of Guelph.
>>
>> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 9:53:46 AM UTC-4 Damien wrote:
>>
>>> Kitchener-Waterloo, Ontario here. I've ordered two Rivs direct, and have 
>>> purchased a few from fellow members of this group! I've seen exactly two 
>>> Rivendells in town (a fellow with a Cheviot in DT Kitchener, and a lady 
>>> with I think an older Atlantis probably 10-12 years ago near Uptown 
>>> Waterloo)
>>>
>>> On Monday 15 July 2024 at 09:30:01 UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>>
 Winnipeg, Manitoba and I ordered my 3 Rivs direct from Walnut Creek

 On Sunday, July 14, 2024 at 2:36:12 PM UTC-5 Jay wrote:

> I joined the group back in January and don't recall spotting many 
> posts from my fellow Canadians, eh.
>
> Just seeing who is in Canada?  If you're from SW Ontario, maybe we can 
> arrange a ride one day; I've never seen a Rivendell in the wild.
>
> If you have a Riv, did you order direct from them, through C&L in 
> Montreal, other?
>


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[RBW] Re: Your Riv's Next Upgades / Parts Swaps

[Mackenzy Albright]

I've really tried  to not obsess with "boutique" parts on my clementine 
after many (imo) over the top parts collecting/builds. (I just love high 
end vintage parts) I found with my Clementine running V-brakes (avid SL's) 
I could not for the life of me find a nice V-brake lever with a low profile 
clamp and the bolt out of the way and the barrel adjuster that protrudes 
limiting lever angle on swept back bars. I bought a cheap set of litepro 
levers from from Ali-express but feel a bit flimsy but work for now. 
Eventually I'd like to swap them out for Pauls as it seems they're one of 
the few quality brake levers that fit my preferences. 


On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 8:04:34 AM UTC-7 Hoch in ut wrote:

> Appaloosa - looking to swap out the Sunrace shifter. The ratcheting mech 
> doesn’t offer fine enough shifts for the RD. I’ll be going to Microshift or 
> use Simplex as soon as I can acquire a thumbie mount. 
>
> On Sunday, July 14, 2024 at 1:52:11 PM UTC-6 Jay wrote:
>
>> When building up a bike sometimes you make do with what you have on hand 
>> already, or is readily available, or affordable.  Though in the back of 
>> your mind you've already identified a replacement.
>>
>> I'm curious as to what parts on your current builds have you slotted for 
>> eventual replacement at some time in the future?  What will you be 
>> replacing it with?  Any dream parts in there, or just more functional or 
>> comfortable choices?
>>
>> On my Roadini I'm really happy with the touch-points: saddle and seat 
>> post, bars and tape, pedals; one of my wheel sets (with the 43mm tires); 
>> the cages; brake levers, callipers, and DT shifters. The chain and cassette 
>> are fine--and I want to stick with 11sp--but the crank and derailleurs are 
>> on my list of upgrades/swaps (partially for aesthetics...would like silver, 
>> partially for function as I would like a bit more great range on the low 
>> end).  I would also like to replace the second wheel set that I use with 
>> 30mm tires for road-only rides (to something lighter/faster).  I would also 
>> change the housing (aesthetics, maybe green or grey), and the saddle bag.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Show me your Riv with Bullmoose bars

[Mackenzy Albright]

Dustin - I had just hauled my hotdog air compressor to work with me and had 
it bungie netted on my portuer rack. It's just awkwardly hooked onto the 
handlebars over the cables. I have a double ring in front - but only use 
the 34 for my riding so I don't shift into a small ring almost ever so 
don't bother with a derailler. I am happy to tap it with my toe to shift 
down on the rare occasion. 

The mount on the swoop toob is a wzrd bikes cargo 
deck: https://www.wzrd.bike/justtryingtosurviveundercapitalism/p/cargo-decks 

Ian - It's an aliexpress lite speed levers. I snapped the bolt on this 
version and switched to a paul knockoff lite speed lever for now. It's very 
difficult to find (modern) V-brake levers that don't have bolts in annoying 
spots. Eventually I'd like real Pauls. Lite speeds have been *fine*. 
On Thursday, June 20, 2024 at 7:58:57 PM UTC-7 ian m wrote:

> Also what are those brake levers??
>
> On Thursday, June 20, 2024 at 8:11:43 PM UTC-4 Dustin wrote:
>
>> 
>> 
>> Mackenzy,
>>
>> What a useful looking mixte.  A few follow up questions for curious 
>> minds:  
>>
>> Cable routing?  Is your rear brake cable wound up in your basketless 
>> basket net?  What is that mount your have strapped to your swoopy top tube? 
>>  I see two rings up front, are you finger shifting the front or just using 
>> the big ring on this?  
>>
>> Thanks
>> Dustin in VA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 20, 2024, at 7:25 PM, Mackenzy Albright  
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, June 20, 2024 at 9:57:47 AM UTC-7 Berkeleyan wrote:
>>
>>> 66cm QB that gets daily/weekly love all around Berkeley. The Harlequin 
>>> wrap has held up great over the past decade, thanks to shellac.
>>>
>>> >> href="https://diesel.smugmug.com/Bici/Rivendell-Quickbeam/i-sDd4Xd9/A";>>> src="
>>> https://photos.smugmug.com/Bici/Rivendell-Quickbeam/i-sDd4Xd9/0/gVPV5h3ssGs2N8Bn38b2qNjd9NmWnvTLHMmtb3C9/L/P1030367-L.jpg";
>>>  
>>> alt="">
>>>
>> -- 
>>
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/56dca445-1cdb-4e94-a868-0c34cc982d65n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>> 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Last Susie fit question (with photos!) & a second Riv Gus?!

[Mackenzy Albright]

John - Don't stress too much. Moving from traditional triangle frames to 
step-though super long riv's I've realized the amount of flexibility of fit 
with Riv's. So much is based on personal opinion and personal ergonomics. I 
found on my Riv I like a short low stem with wide swept back bars. It gives 
me a good hip hinge angle and should stance that prevents neck pain that I 
personally struggle with from an inury. I ride holding in front of the 
levers a lot when I am pedaling at a high cadence. Riv's are also generally 
very easy to swap parts shifter and bar wrap pending. I'd recommend waiting 
to use wrapped bars or internal routing of cables (for example bar end 
shifters) until things have dialed in. 
On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 6:46:30 AM UTC-7 gds...@gmail.com wrote:

> By the way I think your bike fit looks fine.
>
> On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 7:43:03 AM UTC-6 Gordon Stam wrote:
>
>> John, It seems that those of us who are test fitting our bikes make 
>> similar faces. It is, after all, serious business!
>>
>> And here is a link to a stem length calculator that I found handy during 
>> the fit process: http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php . That one 
>> happens to not be secure, but there are others, like this one: 
>> https://www.myvelofit.com/stem-calculator/
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 8, 2024 at 12:30:37 PM UTC-6 Armand Kizirian wrote:
>>
>>> Difference in reach between the two models is only 1.5cm, you can adjust 
>>> for it with stem length without an issue in the age of 80-135mm. I wouldn't 
>>> trust any opinion on fit based on the photos you've provided, especially 
>>> since your feet are floating. :D Only you know best. 
>>>
>>> Your PBH is within range for both sizes. It all depends what kind of fit 
>>> you prefer, being "on" the bike (smaller size, more playful/nimble) or "in" 
>>> the bike (larger size, more stable and relaxed). 
>>>
>>> [image: Screenshot 2024-06-08 111731.png]
>>> On Saturday, June 8, 2024 at 9:14:43 AM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:
>>>

 That's going to be hard to tell without riding.  Based on my own 
 experience and preferences, I'd guess you'll want to stretch out a little 
 more.  Either longer stem or less sweep on the bars.  Completely 
 speculation though.

 I'm a chronic cockpit tinkerer, and mess with bars and stem on at least 
 two of my bikes every year.  I've noticed one un-scientific constant every 
 time I get a setup feeling close to ideal:  if I draw an imaginary line 
 between my hands (where they grip the bar), and sight through that line 
 while riding, the bead from my eyes will almost exactly  intersect the 
 axis 
 of the front hub.  I don't know what the connection is or why it always 
 turns out this way, but assume it has to do with weighting and stabilizing 
 the steering adequately.   It looks to me like you would be sighting 
 behind 
 the axle as currently mocked up? 

  Good news is that that that bike doesn't look too small.  In case you 
 were still worried you got the wrong size.

 Regarding a second:  I'd never try to talk someone out of a second 
 riv.  But keep in mind that the susie is very different from other 
 rivendell models.I think the lowered bb height of yours will help, 
 compared to my first run orange one, but bet its still quite different.  
 My 
 AR, Ram, Saluki, QB and Clem - though mostly older models - all have a 
 characteristic Riv "feel".  My Susie is completely different.  I'd 
 consider 
 getting a different model for variety's sake.
 On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 11:54:24 PM UTC-6 johnwc...@gmail.com wrote:

> Ok, just wanted a final opinion. 
>
> Here is the 50cm Susie I took delivery of. I've mocked this up with 
> 26" Cliffhangers (I didn't have 27.5 rim brake set on hand), Ortho bars, 
> 100mm Nitto stem, Brooks saddle. Saddle height is about 64/65cm and my 
> PBH 
> is about 78. 
>
> How does this fit look? Specifically, reach. 
>
> Without properly riding it, my first impression was that it felt 
> ok-ish. Hard to tell without actually going for a ride. Didn't feel too 
> stretched out and not really cramped either. 
>
> To throw another wrench in things, I have an opportunity to pickup a 
> used 54cm Gus frame. Do I need to have a second Riv right now? No! But, 
> we 
> all know how bikes go. If anything, my partner could probably ride either 
> frame so, it wouldn't be a lost cause. 
> Maybe I'm just looking for an excuse to have 2 Rivs!! 
>
> Using the photos of me on the 50cm Susie, do you think a 54cm Gus 
> would be too large? 
>
> Thanks y'all! 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Inexpensive rear light to mount on Seat stay - any suggestions

[Mackenzy Albright]

https://www.knog.com/products/plus-rear-bike-light

for rechargable rear lights - this knog became my absolute favorite. It's a 
sleek design. It straps nicely onto the seat stay. It is REALLY REALLY 
bright - but not blindingly so. It is easy to remove when parked - as it's 
magnetically clipped to the mount. It charges with a standard USB clip. It 
lasts a reasonable amount of time on steady or erratic blink. 

I found despite it not mounting perpendicular on the seat stay it is still 
exceedingly visible including from the sides. I find it actually lights the 
whole rear wheel quite well. 

On Tuesday, April 30, 2024 at 12:13:44 PM UTC-7 Benjamin Kelley wrote:

> All mine, which are all various usb rechargable Planet Bike super flash 
> lights all came with a mount that is articulated, similar to a standard 
> cheap OEM rear reflector mount.
> They come with 2 tube sizes, a large one that fits a seat tube, a smaller 
> one that is a bit larger than a seat stay, and a couple sizes of rubber 
> shim material.
> You could probably goto a LBS and rummage the parts bin and find something 
> similar.  Picture url of the mount from the planet bike site is below.
>
> --ben in KC
>
>
>
> https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-i3pt5y1dai/product_images/uploaded_images/superflash-usb-bike-tail-light-lifestyle.jpg?t=1644602501&_gl=1*7oe9ud*_ga*NDM5NTc0ODEwLjE1NzAwMzY0NzQ.*_ga_WS2VZYPC6G*MTY0NDYwMTgzMy44MTcuMS4xNjQ0NjAyNTIxLjU4
>
> On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 12:37 PM Art  wrote:
>
>> Hello All:
>> I'm looking for a good but inexpensive rear light for my Bridgestone. I'd 
>> like to mount it on the left seat stay so I need a mount that allows me to 
>> tilt the light so it is pointing straight back (not up in the air). I have 
>> a seat bag covering the seat tube, so mounting it there won't work.
>> Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?
>> TIA
>>
>> .Art
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Long wheelbase = long chain

[Mackenzy Albright]

Buy two KMC z9's for dirt cheap. Toss the leftover second chain in the 
parts bin for the next 3 chain replacements. 

On Friday, April 26, 2024 at 4:38:56 AM UTC-7 Nick Payne wrote:

> On Friday 26 April 2024 at 2:51:46 am UTC+10 Garth wrote:
>
> Ebike chains come in extra long links. Figure out how much you need and 
> buy one close.
>
>  
> ^This. For my Appaloosa I bought a Wipperman Connex chain that had 136 
> links. With 38/24 chainrings and an 11-40 cassette, that was easily long 
> enough to cope with the long chainstays. As I recall, I had to remove six 
> or eight links to get the correct length.
>
> https://www.connexchain.com/en/bike-chains/detail/connex-11se
>
> Nick Payne
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

[Mackenzy Albright]

for an upright bike I *love* the long chain stays on my Clementine for off 
road climbing and descending. I don't struggle much with technical riding - 
except it can be a little more hard to avoid certain roots or rocks. The 
29er tires eat that up though. 

I *do* miss having a short wheelbase nimble bike for more spirited riding. 
I would choose my Clem if I could only have one bike. I definitely prefer 
having a short wheelbase bike around though. 

On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 9:00:28 AM UTC-8 Tim Bantham wrote:

> I can relate to this. For me there are pros and cons. For example, the 
> Clem I bought a few years ago was intended to be an analog mountain bike. I 
> found the long chainstays to be a liability for east coast single track. 
> This is especially the case with tight turns and the need to carry the 
> bike. If I had to do it all over for the type of MTB riding that I have 
> available to me I would go for a bike with shorter stays and a lighter 
> frame. That said, I love the longer chainstays on my Sam as compared to a 
> regular road/gravel  bike. Definitely noticeable on the descents. I ride my 
> Sam on dirt roads quite a bit and the long stay really shines in that 
> situation.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Going really large on Clems

[Mackenzy Albright]

I've ridden a 59 clementine and "sized up" 64 clem jr. I would have been 
equally happy with both in terms of ride and fit. I don't feel reach (TT) 
is an issue with hillibikes given their headtube angle and design around 
sweptback bars. I'd be cautious sizing up if you want to run flat bars. 
Aesthetically the saddle was a bit low in the seattube on the 64 for some 
peoples tastes - but had no issue with leg rub etc. The main reason I kept 
the 59 and resold the 64 was: a really tall person (the previous owner with 
regret) wanted the 64 back if I decided it wasn't for me as well as I found 
the previous Clementine (59) to have a slightly more traditional handling 
feel which worked better for it's utiliarian commuter purpose as I often am 
lugging around weight on a porteur rack for work. For unloaded trails and 
general rides I would have slightly preferred the new gen 64. Both are 
incredible riding bikes. I can't imagine my life without a Clem. 
On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 1:07:39 PM UTC-8 Johnny Alien wrote:

> My PBH generally puts me in the middle of sizes. Either at the top of one 
> range or bottom of the net. For a step thru/general use bike I would go 
> with the size up and for a road setup or diamond frame model I would size 
> down. That has always worked for me. I understand that Rivendell will 
> sometimes suggest massively sizing up on step thru frames but I have never 
> been comfortable that way and also just don't like the look of a slammed 
> stem and seatpost.
>
> On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 3:41:09 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Yes! 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 24, 2024, at 2:38 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Isn't Grant's intention with these very long reaches to the bar, to allow 
>> bars with long sweepback on a stem of reasonable length and with a lot of 
>> rise?
>>
>> In my own case, with short arms and long torso and a drop bar level with 
>> or below saddle, I need a very undersquare frame (60 X 56 c-c is perfect) 
>> for a level top tube; of courses, if I were to use a non-drop bar with a 
>> lot of sweepback, things could be different.
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 11:23 AM Josh C  wrote:
>>
>>> I could fit on anything between 59-64cm with the low top tube but I'd 
>>> pick the 59 just to keep the overall length down. These bikes are already 
>>> crazy long, I don't want to make it longer unnecessarily, a 64 clem is like 
>>> riding an 80s Lincoln Towncar. I don't understand the draw of sizing up. 
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Has anyone else tried the new Riv seat?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Bumping this thread! 

I just made an order from Blue Lug and noticed they had them in stock. I 
decided to give it a try since saddles are always a thing and my brooks are 
all getting quite old and stretched. Now that the seat has been out for a 
few months I am curious how ya'll are feeling about it given more saddle 
time. 

On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 8:24:54 AM UTC-8 Chris K wrote:

> Chris - I wanna say my Ergon saddle is the SR Allroad Comp. Nice basic 
> saddle.
>
> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 7:58:55 AM UTC-7 Steven Seelig wrote:
>
>> I replaced a Brooks Flyer Curved on my Xtracycle now Bafang E-bike that 
>> is about as upright as it gets.  Agree that at first I wasn't sure where 
>> this part of my sit bone connected to that part of the saddle.  After a few 
>> more rides, I simply forgot it was on the bike at all.  Given that with 
>> e-bikes you are constantly shifting the assist and the 9 speed derailleur 
>> to hit the perfect sweet spot, and I ride in City traffic, perhaps I was 
>> not as in-tune as i would be on a quiet country road.  I prefer it to the 
>> Brooks and don't miss the absence of the spring in the least.  
>>
>> My experience is likely comparing persimmons to cumquats for someone 
>> riding unupright on an analog bike.
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 5, 2023 at 1:53:12 PM UTC-5 Tom Wyland wrote:
>>
>> I have it on my Platy currently. It replaced a Selle Anatomica H2 (at 
>> least for the winter). The SA was a tad too narrow since I swapped to 
>> slighly more upright bars. I haven't yet decided if the Riv saddle is too 
>> wide (by 1-2cm).  I don't really care for the wide nose of the Riv saddle, 
>> but I suppose I'll get used to it. I do like the flat shape and the amount 
>> of padding (minimal). It's good for a more upright ride due to the width.  
>> I may use it on my wife's bike to swap out the Bontrager commuter saddle 
>> (wide).  When viewed from the side, the Bontrager commuter saddle has 
>> shoulders that slope down where the Riv saddle is a flat profile. We both 
>> prefer saddles that have a flat profile.  I've also ridden a VO wide 
>> touring saddle and the Riv saddle is wider both in the nose and the rear.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Jumbo Rosco Bubbe Iditabike

[Mackenzy Albright]

This legitimately might be one of the coolest niche Rivendell builds I've 
seen. *slowly leaves room to avoid impulse decisions* 

On Wednesday, January 3, 2024 at 3:15:55 PM UTC-8 Bones wrote:

> I thought the day would never come! Really cool bike Kai. I'm sure you'll 
> find it a new home.
>
> Bones
>
> On Wednesday, January 3, 2024 at 5:33:04 PM UTC-5 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
> wrote:
>
>> Multiple Roscos and multiple bills aren’t adding up, and ever since I put 
>> it together, it hasn’t snowed😩. So here for sale is the bestest bike for 
>> the larger folks out there. I think it measures 64 at the seat tube, but 
>> I’ve got a geometry chart somewhere I’ll plug in here asap. 
>> Pictures
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/U18G3VtrhaWFDisWA
>> Some weird rare parts, some not. Heartily patinated racks with internally 
>> wired dynamo lights and handmade wooden fenders (pretty lightweight 
>> actually). Racks and fenders made by me, the front rack can carry anything 
>> you can get into some panniers, with the rear rack only ever having held 
>> that light there and the fender steady, as I’m hesitant to load up the back 
>> of toptubeless frame. 
>> I’m keeping the grips and the seat, but everything else you see is 
>> included. Also included is a new Mavic 319 rim for when you’d like to swap 
>> out the front. Rear wheel came with my Clem and hasn’t seen much of the 
>> world.
>> Very rare! Highly collectible?!
>> $2000.
>> Thanks for looking, and happy rolling to all
>> -Kai
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Wheel Flop

[Mackenzy Albright]

https://www.renehersecycles.com/trail-does-not-make-a-bike-stable/  -  I 
think this has a pretty good explanation of wheel flop. 

Having ridden a low trail bike (Romanceur) I found it felt twitcher and 
more sensitive to handlebar movement at all speeds. I think I really 
"steered with the hips" a bit more here. Also - lower trail seems to carry 
weight up higher a bit better so you see more weight up top on baskets or 
bar bags, especially at slow speeds. 

High trail bikes have more flop - which from my understanding is the bike 
front end lowers slightly. This gives a lot more handlebar feedback. Lots 
of mountain bikes are higher trail. You can carry higher front loads on 
them as well - but you may notice on slower / sharper turns it feeling 
literally "floppy". At speed it'd likely be stable. Some porteur bikes have 
a bit more mid trail for carrying more substancial weight mixing stability 
and lower flop. 

Honestly, having ridden a lot of different bikes with different trail I can 
say you will almost always get used to what you're spending time riding. 
The only time i've noticed it to be intolerable was building up a bike for 
my girlfriend who is very short. It was an 80's Miele with 700c wheels. 
Seat tube was 48cm but the top tube was 52 and very very raked out. I've 
since switched it with a terry 24/700 and it's a real difference in 
positive ride quality. 

This has all lead me to think to focus on trail and flop is a bit overblown 
within reason. We all have personal preferences but it feels like a 
marketing ploy these days. Trail and flop is really specific and niche 
aspect of the bike that really should be determined by a good builder or 
designer (Riv etc) based on wheelsize, tire size, ride quality, utility, 
and preference. Obviously Rivendell does this with their bikes - i've seen 
attempts to "low trail" a hunq or atlantis - but the reality is these bikes 
are really well designed and functional as is. With my current custom being 
built by a montreal builder - I was very insistent on low trail like my 
Romanceur. However after several consultations he suggested going slightly 
more mid trail as it would fit the build and purpose of the bike better. I 
trust the builder to understand the geometry. 

I had a new Clem Smith Jr with more wheel flop and it carried front weight 
*less well* in a heavy front basket vs a slightly less high trail 
Clementine. Both were floppy with a overfilled basket vs the Romanceur. 



On Tuesday, January 2, 2024 at 12:40:06 PM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:

> I'm struggling to understand what this business of "wheel flop" is all 
> about that I've been seeing from critics on various blogs lately.  I looked 
> it up on the Web and read some descriptions of it.  But based on these 
> comments, do any or all Riv bikes have this characteristic in handling 
> based on "front end loading, etc" maybe, not sure?

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[RBW] Re: Studs for Winter Riding?

[Mackenzy Albright]

John - Ive ridden extensively with both studs and regular tires through 
severe Minnesota and Alberta winters. Back when winters had a fair amount 
of temperature consistency I found fat MTB tires were excellent. I loved 
when the cold weather hit -19*c and packed snow becomes hard and squeaky. 
It's a joy to ride. Most trail riding was perfectly adequate if not 
excellent. 

With the winters these days heavy freeze thaw as well as increased cycling 
traffic on winter trails I found things ice up much more often.  I was also 
commuting extensively and found the 45N kahvas to be excellent and worth 
the money. 

Now that I'm in Vancouver I don't bother with anything but fenders. If it's 
slippery I take the bus!



On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 10:22:53 AM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:

> Thanks again to all of you experienced winter riders for the illuminating 
> discussion and worthy suggestions. One significant factor that I don't 
> contend with anymore is the commute to work, so my winter riding is 
> strictly for pleasure. Since most of my riding is on country gravel roads I 
> also don't have to suffer pavement and, in Takashi's words, 'the sound like 
> the end of the world is coming'. 
>
> I've been riding with my very low-tread WTB Nano's in the packed snow and 
> relying on the handling skills honed from over 50 years of riding. So far 
> so good. I don't ride super fast in these conditions and whenever one of my 
> tires tries to slip out from under me I'm able to correct and hold it 
> together, and this always makes me laugh as though I've cheated death or 
> something. 
>
> Again, I am a believer that the right equipment makes a world of 
> difference, but I also really appreciate Andy's reminder that there is no 
> substitute for skillful bike handling. Combining the two is certainly the 
> sweet spot, but for the time being, I think I will forgo the Schwalbe Ice 
> Spikers and focus on mindful riding and practicing my winter riding skills 
> with what I've got. 
>
> I'll let you know if I end up knocking out my front teeth. 
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Wednesday, December 6, 2023 at 7:02:16 AM UTC-8 Marc Irwin wrote:
>
>> I've used both Nokian  and Schwalbe Marathon Winter on my Hunq.  I prefer 
>> the Schwalbe.
>>
>> Marc[image: 1213150841_05-SNOW.gif]
>>
>> On Sunday, December 3, 2023 at 8:34:32 PM UTC-5 John Rinker wrote:
>>
>>> Went for a ride in snow today and had a blast! I also slipped around a 
>>> little bit as I tried to follow the packed snow of tire tracks. Got me 
>>> thinking about studded tires. I've never ridden them before and know 
>>> nothing about them. 
>>>
>>> Do any of you fine folks with more experience in such matters than me 
>>> have any recommendations for studded tires for my Hunq?
>>>
>>> Cheers, John
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: YAHT (Yet Another Handlebar Thread) :D

[Mackenzy Albright]

I second the Choco-Moose bars! They're everything I wanted the RM-016 
moustache / albastache bars to be. There is a lot of real-estate. Great 
control from the grips - nice position in the hook - and everything in 
between. Plus I'd say they look pretty darn good. 

On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 12:44:39 PM UTC-8 mcgr...@gmail.com wrote:

> I find the Choco bar mounted upside-down (as in the moose version on my 
> Hunq) is a great road bar replacement.  I have a modern indexed 10-speed 
> shifter on the right and a SunTour wishbone shifter on the left, under the 
> bar -  really great for this application.  The moose version of the Choco 
> is great for trail rides - no slippage!  Also fun to show off the 
> Fairweather Ongr bag that I finally found to fill the triangle ;)
>
> [image: PXL_20231025_200507783.jpg]
>
> On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5 chefd...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> For sure, a drop bar looks great, and as others have already pointed out, 
>> there are several drop bar variations out there besides the Noodle...I've 
>> been curious about the Origin8 Tiki Bar, for example. I'm just now looking 
>> to offload a Roadini that is fit with Noodles and brifters, and I have to 
>> say that while the combination is fun,  I also get sore hands fairly 
>> quickly - say by mile 15.  I've got an Albastache bar on my XO-3, and am 
>> quite happy with that for my around-town riding and daily commute. I'm also 
>> fully behind the idea of saving $, so intra-list sales and swaps, CL and 
>> Facebook marketplace are my main source of parts. 
>> On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 8:17:20 AM UTC-8 modemm...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Eh, I'm really thinking of going back to a drop bar of some sort - 
>>> there's 1000 of them out there, and it seems ones with shallower 
>>> drops and mid to high flare are going to make the drops usable.  And I 
>>> probably want something with a longer ramp for even more position 
>>> variability.  There are just. so. many. bars. now.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 10:47:53 AM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
 I love handlebar discussions. I am a pretty big fan of the Albastache 
 bars and generally have moved to them in instances where I would normally 
 use drops. Similar to you I don't really ride in the drops so Noodles just 
 don't have the same amount of options. That said I also love the look and 
 traditional feel of drops. I plan to try out the Blue Lug specific variant 
 of the Noodles. They are the same bar but with shallower drops and less 
 reach. It seems like that could be perfect and make riding in the drops 
 more accessible. As far as anything that would keep you with road levers 
 for brifters thats about the only options. Albastache bars are clunky set 
 up that way because of the way you need to throw the lever to shift. I 
 have 
 only held off trying the BL bars because I am waiting for a stem I want to 
 come in so that shipping makes more sense.

 Now if you do want to move toward a thumb shifter route for road bikes 
 I cannot recommend the Losco bars enough. So good for a sweptback road 
 experience.

 On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 9:54:02 AM UTC-5 modemm...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I have a 2016 Sam, from the batch of completes that year.  I love the 
> bike, and now that I'm riding a lot more (my wife was gifted with being 
> able to ride again after not being able to for years; she has a '16 Sam 
> too), I swapped bars from the stock (Nitto Noodle) to an Albastache.  
>
> The Noodle was only giving me ONE hand position, on the hoods.  The 
> drops didn't feel usable to me and the flats are just too narrow for my 
> comfort.  The hoods position was putting a lot of pressure on the meaty 
> part of my hands behind the thumbs.
>
> The 'Stache fixes that and gives me a lot of hand positions - on the 
> "hoods" (but it's a big flat on the 'Stache of course), behind them, and 
> pretty much all along the rest of the bar.  I like it, but...
>
> I do miss the hand position that only comes from having a drop bar on 
> being on those hoods in that orientation; I just need one that will put 
> them in a spot that doesn't put all the weight on the meaty-hand-part 
> behind the thumbs.
>
> I have to admit I also miss how the bike looks with a drop bar. O_o  I 
> dunno, I guess the bike just "wants" that look, to me.
>
> I'd also like to not run the shifters as barend shifters... So I'd go 
> thumbie or some type of (S DON'T TELL GRANT) brifter. 
>
> The other issue I don't have access to the funds that some others 
> around here seem to. :)  These bikes were EXPENSIVE to us ($2,600 a pop 
> and 
> we've added front and rear racks, fenders, etc.)
>
> Ideas, comments, questions, help, etc, etc?  I'm sure lots aroun

[RBW] Re: Gus ride shaming

[Mackenzy Albright]

Rivendell hillibikes are incredible trail bikes. It's funny because I 
cannot stand suspension "squish". The long wheelbase and large tire 
clearance makes Riv's a formidable off roader. Especially in slow steep 
climbs and fast loose (non bumpy) descents. 

I'll say it once and I'll say it again - I am sure we'll see long wheelbase 
offroad/adventure bikes hit mainstream in the 5 as a new fad from bigger 
companies. salsa/specialized etc. 
On Tuesday, November 14, 2023 at 7:11:45 AM UTC-8 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Friday, November 10, 2023 at 8:17:49 PM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> They asked " was that you that passed us on a cruiser bike?" 
>
>
> Hah. Reminds me of the time I passed somebody on the trail, riding my Riv 
> ATB, and they said "nice cyclocross bike". Yeah, except 26x2" tires aren't 
> legal in cyclocross...
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA 
>

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Re: [RBW] Bosco Knuckle Clearance?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Hi Andrew - I am picky about my brake levers. I don't like a lot of length 
on the barrel adjustor side as well as I don't like a bolt that interferes 
with setting your hand on the levers. A lot of modern V brake levers have 
both of these things. Paul's are way out of my price range. I got a pair of 
litepro levers off AliExpress and they're wonderful. Not quite as much 
pizazz as Paul's, but they leave lots knuckle room and smooth tops. If you 
have the pocket change I'd definitely get Paul's. 
On Monday, November 13, 2023 at 6:35:56 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> [image: image0.jpeg]
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 13, 2023, at 9:16 PM, Richard Rose  wrote:
>
> Here is my measurement - Paul Love Levers on Bosco. 44mm.
>
> 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 13, 2023, at 8:04 PM, Andrew Letton  wrote:
>
> 
> Hello Good Listers,
>
> I have (55cm CroMo) Bosco bars and Shimano BL-R780 levers on my old Shogun 
> kid-hauler/commuter, and I find that I just can't get the brake levers in a 
> position that both works well for braking and gives clearance for my big 
> knuckles when I have my hands on the top of the curve, forward of the 
> levers.  I got in an "altercation" with a car a month ago (they turned in 
> front of me, and I slammed into the side of their car at speed) and while 
> my fractured shoulder and torn MCL are healing, I'd like to complete the 
> bike repairs, so it's ready to ride when I am. The left brake lever 
> suffered some damage, so I'm looking at replacing these with levers that 
> have more knuckle clearance between the bars and the adjusters. The two 
> levers that look promising online are the Paul Love Levers and the IRD 
> Cafam levers, but I'm open to other long-pull candidates.
>
> *If you have Love Levers, the Cafams, or some other lever you think would 
> be a good candidate, would you mind measuring the distance from the 
> adjuster to the handlebar (assuming a straight bar, for consistency) and 
> reporting back here?*  The dimension on these Shimano levers is about 
> 28mm.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Andrew in Sydney
>
> <1699921860221blob.jpg>
>
>
> <1699921879358blob.jpg>
>
>
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>  
> 
> .
> <1699921860221blob.jpg>
> <1699921879358blob.jpg>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best mitten design for very cold weather

[Mackenzy Albright]

https://www.halfordsmailorder.com/deer-mitts-gold-ladies-large-glmitt196golll

I prefer simple deer skin mittens with fleece liners for anything below 
freezing to about -19*c / -19*f

I've had the same pair for 10 years. I have terrible circulation in my 
fingers and numb quickly. 

IMO Lobster claws are a joke. Snow board mittens are OK but over priced. 
Gloves are worst than lobster claws for cold (I wear thin gloves above 32 
though). Pogies are nice but limit hand positions a bit more than I care 
for. 
On Thursday, October 5, 2023 at 11:15:06 AM UTC-7 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:

> All leather for this job is a tough choice in my use case.  I need mitts 
> to be occasionally waterproof but more often breathable.  And in fact, I'll 
> err on the side of breathable because a very waterproof mitt will leave me 
> with wet hands inside anyway.  To get leather to the waterproof stage, you 
> need a sealant (I like SnoSeal), rendering it basically non-breathable.  My 
> personal compromise is a mountaineering mitten with removable liner and a 
> leather palm.  I get the grippiness and longevity of leather (synthetic 
> substitutes are far inferior), which I can waterproof + the breathability 
> of modern membranes (PFCs are a downside).  I dispose of the factory liner 
> beacuse they're usually garbage and use a dense, lightweight wool mitten, 
> knit by my loving mother.
>
> Will
>
>
>
> On Thursday, October 5, 2023 at 2:04:35 PM UTC-4 Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>
>> I also like my Kinco mitts but one note of clarification is that their 
>> built in liner is of the 'fingered/gloved' type so each digit is lined 
>> separately within the mitten.  They are otherwise much warmer than the now 
>> heavily worn out cashmere lined leather gloves I was previously using for 
>> most of my winter riding.  Those older gloves were better for gripping a 
>> variety of bars and using controls but nowhere near as effective for 
>> keeping my fingers warm or dry.  My Kinco mitts also came with a pack of 
>> Nikwax (I think) waterproofing paste to work into the leather.  
>>
>> On Thursday, October 5, 2023 at 1:45:59 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, a second +1 for Kinco products. They're on my short list.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 4, 2023 at 2:02 PM David Pulsipher  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 The best mittens, hands down - for warmth and cost are the Kinco Ski 
 Mitt . They can be broken in so they aren't 
 super dextrous, but as far as warmth goes, I've used them well into the 
 negatives (-14 up to -20) and every other mitten breaks down at that 
 point, 
 especially cycling specific products.

 On Tuesday, October 3, 2023 at 12:29:51 PM UTC-6 mmille...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 I've used an older version of these First Lite mittens 
 
  
 for hunting, and they also had enough feel to operate my cameras. 
 Obviously, they are expensive. My version was much cheaper! But when 
 working for hours in the Dakotas and Minnesota, they were perfect and well 
 worth it. Wool still works when damp, and I sometimes used just the 
 outside 
 with different liners.

 On Tuesday, October 3, 2023 at 12:43:27 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

 The trouble with those, besides being bulky looking, is our big 
 temperature differentials. I can often leave at 9 am at 18*F and come back 
 at 50*F. I daresay that if I were riding long periods at sub 20* I'd think 
 differently.

 On Tue, Oct 3, 2023 at 9:54 AM Wesley  wrote:

 Honestly, Bar Mitts brand neoprene pogies are so amazing that I would 
 recommend just buying enough pairs that you can put them on each bike. Or 
 swapping one pair between bikes as necessary (that can be complicated on 
 the drop-bar version, depending on your cable routing). They are far 
 beyond 
 any gloves or mittens worn on the hands because they block the cold wind 
 without being bulky or interfering with your handling the controls. I have 
 fingers that are quite cold-sensitive, and I used Bar Mitts for seven 
 years 
 of commuting in Wisconsin winters. On the below-zero days I would only 
 have 
 to add a pair of minimalist knitted gloves (the kind they sell for 99 
 cents 
 at the supermarket checkout.) 

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[RBW] Re: Tiller effect: could someone please explain?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I associate tiller effect with wheel flop. Not sure if if that is correct. 
But I've only ever experienced negative effects of high swept back bars on 
a very raked out fork with a steep seat tube. I've never had any I'll 
effects on a low or mid trail bike with swept back bars. 

On Monday, September 11, 2023 at 8:50:13 AM UTC-7 Shoji Takahashi wrote:

> Hi Jim,
> Maybe this blog post can help? 
> https://crosscountrycycle.wordpress.com/2015/06/06/tiller-effect/
>
> Good luck!
> shoji
> Arlington MA
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, September 11, 2023 at 9:58:43 AM UTC-4 J J wrote:
>
>> Hi, I have been really interested in the discussion on the thread "upright 
>> bars: how does shorter or longer stem affect steering 
>> " that 
>> eddietheflay initiated.
>>
>> Joe mentioned the *"tiller effect,"* which is a new term to me. I looked 
>> it up and got something about steering a boat on water. Can someone please 
>> explain it as it relates to bicycle handling? 
>>
>> (I'm starting this new thread so I don't derail eddietheflay's original 
>> one.)
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Jim
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Did Charlie Gallop lose its swoopy top tube?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Reminds me of the Jack Taylor Rough Stuff. I think the calipers vs 
cantilever is more of the shame than losing the swoopy tube. Overall a good 
lookin bike. 

On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 11:13:20 AM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:

>
>
> On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 8:54:47 AM UTC-6 brok...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
> .. does that mean the weight limit on those is going to be even lighter 
> than before? Do you need to be a 150 lb rider to ride one now? I 
> specifically chose the Gus because of all the discussions around the 
> purported weight limits they placed on the 
>
>
>
> Ok..  what I'm wondering *now*, is if there will still be a Gus too, 
> after all.  I may have not followed closely enough and don't want to go 
> back and search old info, but I thought the reason that we all assumed the 
> Gus and Susie were merging into a single model was because a blug blurb 
> said something about a "hybrid."   But could that have meant a hybrid in 
> terms of lugs PLUS fillet welds? That's what these samples appear to be. 
>
> Regarding weight limits, it seems that - with a couple of notable 
> exceptions discussed in the group - the original Susie was alot stronger 
> than anticipated.  So I wouldn't fret too much if you're considering 
> getting one.  I'm a big guy myself, and certainly have no qualms riding my 
> own Susie in rough conditions. It doesn't flex nearly as much as other 
> bikes I own.   
>
> I kind of thought the biggest difference between the gus's and susie's 
> relative frame stregths came from their tubing diameters - especially the 
> downtube, but including the headtube.   Maybe they could just thicken guage 
> of  the smaller-diameter tubing if they wanted to make the susie stronger?  
> Or make thin the gauge of the gus if they wanted to make it lighter?   But 
> the later would require new lugs and we know Grant doesn't like thin, 
> easily-dented tubing.
>
> The oddest thing about not having a Gus Boots Willsen model is going to be 
> explaining to people where Susie W Longbolts and Wolbis Slugstone derived 
> from.
>

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[RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho vs. Nitto Albatross

[Mackenzy Albright]

I've found my sweet spot of swept back bars with the 54cm width range. I 
really like the fit of albatross, loscos, and chocomoose. I found toscos 
(and kind of bosco) to be too wide and somewhat bothersome to my shoulder 
and neck issues.  

I really like how tosco and ortho looks, but am personally not in the least 
tempted. 

On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 3:05:07 PM UTC-7 DavidP wrote:

> David - it looks like your bar ends are Silver2s? If so Riv has Silver 
> shifter thumb mounts 
>  in 
> stock - you could just move the shifters from the bar end pods to the thumb 
> mounts.
>
> On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 5:41:09 PM UTC-4 David Pulsipher wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Eric - when I put the Albatross and 
>> Billie on top of each other on Whatbars, they look almost identical in 
>> width, just with a little more grip area which in turn makes them slightly 
>> wider. I'm actually ok on grip area, just looking for more width in 
>> general. I hear you on the bar-ends - I'm currently using the rivendell bar 
>> ends and would likely convert them to thumbies. Might have to scour the 
>> interweb to see if anyone is selling them, bummer they are sold out.
>>
>> While I have you, when do we get your next video? ; )
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 3:26:14 PM UTC-6 Paul M wrote:
>>
>>> Having used the Albatross and Choco-moose handlebars for years and 
>>> enjoying them, I recently put the Sycip Singles bar on my Kona Dr. Dew. I 
>>> really like the extra width (650mm) and sweep (45 degree) of this bar. It 
>>> has 200mm of straight grip area, unlike the Ortho and Tosco that don't have 
>>> enough grip length before the bend for spreading out the brake and shifter 
>>> controls. I would ride gravel but not mtb with these bars. Available on 
>>> Soma Fabrication's web site.
>>>
>>> On Friday, 25 August 2023 at 13:03:51 UTC-7 David Pulsipher wrote:
>>>
 Man Eric - what an epistle! Truly you have given me some deep things to 
 ponder.
 Right now I was thinking of putting them on my Surly Long Haul Trucker 
 - it's a 62cm. I'm 6'4 (and full of muscles).

 https://www.instagram.com/p/Ch7Y77ruZob/?img_index=1

 I ride 45 schwalbe marathons, but am up-sizing to 47's shortly.

 I use it for a commuter and touring set up - and ride about about 32 
 miles daily on my commute. Have been intrigued by the wider set up.

 On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 1:37:56 PM UTC-6 DavidP wrote:

> We have two bikes with Albatross bars, a 65cm Tosco on my Platypus, 
> and recently picked up an Ortho bar for another bike. I like the 
> Albatross 
> bars on roadish bikes and wider bars like the Orthos and Toscos on bikes 
> with wider tires that see more dirt. 
>
> The 69cm Orthos are significantly wider than the 55cm Albatross 
> throughout the grip range and come back further (they don't extend as far 
> forward as the Albatross).
>
> The Orthos are actually very similar to the 65cm Toscos - just a touch 
> wider and with a bit more rise. There'd be nothing in swap between them 
> except the stem (26.0 vs 31.8) and some weight.
>
> Another (inexpensive) bar that is very close to the Ortho (and Tosco) 
> is the Wald 896. I mocked up my build using these and was very happy with 
> them, though the price difference is apparent in the finish and weight.
>
> What bike would they be going on? What size tires and how is it used?
>
> -Dave
>
> On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 1:51:07 PM UTC-4 David Pulsipher wrote:
>
>> Hi there,
>>
>> I've been using the Nitto Albatross now for over 13 years - and love 
>> it immensely. But recently I've been intrigued by the idea of going 
>> wider, 
>> much wider. Was wondering if any one had made a similar transition and 
>> would mind sharing their thoughts, reflections.
>>
>> Thanks hive mind!
>>
>>  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] A College Clem

[Mackenzy Albright]

Admittedly, I had almost the exact opposite issue as a college student. I 
grew up without cyclists in my family, and think it's so rad that there are 
parents like Leah to give a good starting point of living a happily car 
free college life. 

I was messy messy messy in my hyperfocus niche interests (bikes). As an 
adolescent I got into bmx bikes. I had a very high end BMX I kept in my 
dorm room under my bunk for the first two years. I worked at a skatepark 
and rode with many professional friends. Eventually, a visiting friend 
"from the city" brought his IRO fixed gear. I was absolutely smitten. He 
taught me about fixed gear conversions - so I went to one on one bike 
studios in Minneapolis and Gene helped me pick out a beat Schwinn Letour in 
my size and parts I needed to convert it to fixed. 

Within the next few months - I befriended a local bike shop worker who 
talked me into buying a 54cm Surly steam roller frame (I am 6' 2" mind you) 
for nearly wholesale as it'd been sitting for ever a year. My IRO friend 
came back and took me down the biggest hill in town (sanfrancisco style) on 
that brakeless steamroller. Literally probably the stupidest day of my 
life. We continued on a 40+K ride in the country side to a waterfall and it 
blew my mind. My friend with the IRO was also into racing on a geared bike 
- and informed me on the magic of "geared bikes" 

I sold the steamroller and dropped all my savings on a Long haul Trucker. 
Except - except they all fit weird and I didn't like the lng top tube 
after a short period. So I traded it for Cross check. I despised the cross 
check frame even more - but somebody offered to trade a geared Karate 
Monkey for my Cross check. I rode the Karate Monkey for a while, but fell 
back in love with single speeds, so converted it to single speed and rode 
that a long time. To my detriment "Ride the Divide" came out. Mark Remier's 
first Generation Salsa Fargo was on display - dirt and all at the premier. 
Within the week I rode to Angry Catfish and picked up a Fargo in my size. I 
loved that bike. That concluded my undergradI wont even start on my 
bikes during my "Grad school years" 

I was quite..."promiscuous" in my bike building because "college" is for 
experimenting right? (I never drank or did drugs - most of my bike dealings 
were trade/second hand based being in QBP land) There was just so much to 
learn and try out -  I couldn't get enough. There were definitely other 
bikes and builds in there I am forgetting like a shogun touring bike etc. 
and lots of BMX bikes. That was just my undergrad...20 years later. Oof - 
not going to think too hard about it. But the enthusiasm hasn't stopped.

I think it's super cool to have an option for such a versatile bike from 
the get go and supportive parents for a *much* better starting point. I 
absolutely believe that Leah's kid is in good hands. Who knows what'll 
happen, but he's got a great bike to work with and obviously a lot of love 
and support which is super great. 

On Tuesday, August 15, 2023 at 11:46:56 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> This is going great you guys. I think it was clear after many days and 
> many posts that the question is "what bike?", not does the kid even want 
> one. It'd be super if we could stick with that. 
>
> On Tuesday, August 15, 2023 at 11:38:13 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Sorry, I have to agree with both Johns; the question seemed to be serious 
>> and without condescension. The triple question marks indicate reserve in 
>> asking the question and not exasperation or putdown; "Perhaps you might 
>> consider ...?"
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 15, 2023 at 12:02 PM Doug H.  wrote:
>>
>>> John,
>>> I took the question exactly as Leah interpreted it. The triple question 
>>> mark at the end of the question was pretty emphatic. Take a breath? Really 
>>> man?
>>> Doug
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, August 15, 2023 at 1:57:37 PM UTC-4 John Phillips wrote:
>>>
 Leah, please take a breath and count to 10.

 John's question wasn't rude, and was a fair question in that the *strength 
 of his desire *for a bike at college *could* correlate to the amount 
 of attention he would give to keeping the bike secure.

 You did ask for people's opinions, so please just ignore those you 
 don't like.

 John 
 On Tuesday, August 15, 2023 at 2:22:12 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding 
 Ding! wrote:

> John,
> Text makes it hard to tell sometimes, so I suppose I’ll ask.
>
> 1. Is your question asked because you have the perfect bike waiting 
> for him that you would like to gift him?
>
> 2. Is your question being asked because you are genuinely confused 
> about the topic of the conversation?
>
> 3. Or is your question posed so as to look down on me, as if I was 
> imposing my choices on my son?
>


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[RBW] Re: Ron’s Ortho Bars but no bike conundrum? Buy mine!

[Mackenzy Albright]

Wow! I got a lot more DM's than anticipated. Sale is currently pending at 
this point. 

On Monday, August 14, 2023 at 9:52:48 AM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

> Ive got a pretty minty silver 130mm ritchey force road stem 26.0 clamp in 
> my parts bin for sale for when you realize you need a lng low steel 
> stem to run these bars. *sunglasses emoji* 
>
> On Monday, August 14, 2023 at 8:53:08 AM UTC-7 Lucky wrote:
>
>> For anyone who bought Ron’s bars only to find they don’t have a bike to 
>> put them on, allow me to shamelessly cross post my lovely 1993 MB-4 (for 
>> sale on iBOB and local CL), which I’m happy to sell without cockpit…
>> Ron’s bars would suit this bike exceptionally well!
>> Feel free to e-mail if I actually caught anyone’s interest;)
>> Liz in Sacramento 
>> [image: 00707_eKrnb9sdxrf_0CI0t2_600x450.jpg]
>>
>> Bridgestone MB-4 Classic 26” ATB - bicycles - by owner - bike sale 
>> <https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/d/sacramento-bridgestone-mb-classic-26-atb/7638985753.html>
>> sacramento.craigslist.org 
>> <https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/d/sacramento-bridgestone-mb-classic-26-atb/7638985753.html>
>>
>> <https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/d/sacramento-bridgestone-mb-classic-26-atb/7638985753.html>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Ron’s Ortho Bars but no bike conundrum? Buy mine!

[Mackenzy Albright]

Ive got a pretty minty silver 130mm ritchey force road stem 26.0 clamp in 
my parts bin for sale for when you realize you need a lng low steel 
stem to run these bars. *sunglasses emoji* 

On Monday, August 14, 2023 at 8:53:08 AM UTC-7 Lucky wrote:

> For anyone who bought Ron’s bars only to find they don’t have a bike to 
> put them on, allow me to shamelessly cross post my lovely 1993 MB-4 (for 
> sale on iBOB and local CL), which I’m happy to sell without cockpit…
> Ron’s bars would suit this bike exceptionally well!
> Feel free to e-mail if I actually caught anyone’s interest;)
> Liz in Sacramento 
> [image: 00707_eKrnb9sdxrf_0CI0t2_600x450.jpg]
>
> Bridgestone MB-4 Classic 26” ATB - bicycles - by owner - bike sale 
> 
> sacramento.craigslist.org 
> 
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: A College Clem

[Mackenzy Albright]

George - I recently went on a quest to find an old non suspension corrected 
(1st or 2nd gen) Surly 1x1 or Karate Monkey and it was nearly impossible 
and their prices are quite high at least in Canada. There are little or no 
single speed specific mtb/atb frames these days (except the crust florida 
man and wombat) Getting a custom Marino was cheaper (~$500 CAD in total 
shipped) 



On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 12:55:12 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

> We all love our Rivendell's very very much and think highly of them. But 
> just a point of perspective I would like to point out - not many people 
> take a sloping top tube bike seriously. I've been friends with houseless 
> folks in neighborhoods I've worked in the past. Bike and parts theft is 
> often based off of convenience and flash and occasionally wrong place at 
> the wrong time. Most bike thefts I hear of or witness these days are 
> e-bikes (the biggest target), old 26" mountain bikes (since they're 
> un-obsoletable they are valued highly by street folk), squishy mtbs, and 
> flashy roady bikes that look like they're worth some bucks. A rim brake 
> 700c step through commuter bike isn't exactly a bike to "stick out" to bike 
> thieves - at least if it's locked well. Not saying there isn't a chance of 
> any bike getting stolen. But realistically a clem smith jr is a lot less 
> likely than somebody cruising to work on their carbon or full suspension 
> specialized and locking it outside. Good consistent locking - making it 
> apparent its not an easy steal will be good enough. If somebody really 
> want's it they will steal it - but honestly there's going to be something 
> more eye catching to a thief than a Clem 99% of the time IMO. 
>
> I've also had multiple friends lose bikes that were "uglied up" with 
> stickers and spray paint because security or property owners assumed they 
> were stolen or bikes from street folk. Though universities will usually tag 
> bikes before removal.  
>
> Also - in response to George's good point. There is a reason so many 
> college kids ride single speeds and fixed gears. (at least when I was in 
> UNI and maybe I still notice them for that reason) they're cheap and easy 
> to maintain. Not as much at stake. Less to worry about in general. (even 
> though I stand by my Clem JR isn't high on the STEAL ME lists) 
>
> On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 11:43:29 AM UTC-7 George Schick wrote:
>
>> I'll chime in with yet another recommendation (would be my choice if I 
>> were going to be shipping a kid of to a campus in the near future):  a 
>> Surly 1x1. They're single speed frames, rather on the heavy side made from 
>> 4130 chro-moly tubing, powder coated for durability, and can be set up with 
>> a single-speed cog and chainring of your choice.  I currently own one and 
>> use it as my all around utility bike for running short haul errands, etc.  
>> I'm using a Bulletproof BMX crankset, 38-tooth Rocket chainring, and a 
>> Shimano 17-tooth SS freewheel for a 59" gear (perfect for riding around 
>> campus).  You can equip this bike with front and rear disc brakes, though I 
>> would not recommend it for campus use where it can get beat around on an 
>> overloaded bike rack and the discs bent. Instead I'd set it up with 
>> linear-pull F&R brakes. It comes with a threadless fork/steering tube, 
>> though, so you'd need the right length/angle threadless stem and the right 
>> bars to fit it (I'd recommend the VeloOrange Granola-Moose bar for easy 
>> mounting of the bar with a headlight.  You could pick any hub, rim, and 
>> tire combination you prefer.  Mine has Surly's semi-sealed cartridge hubs 
>> with 28mm rims and 60mm Schwalbe Big Apple balloon tires - again, a perfect 
>> combo for campus riding.
>> A web search shows that there are several LBS's around the GR, MI area 
>> who are Surly dealers so you'd be within reasonable reach of one.  Anyway, 
>> that's my 2¢.
>>
>> PS: I have a 16T White Industries SS freewheel FS if that would work
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 9, 2023 at 6:47:48 AM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Wow, this thread has generated a lot of response, and I’ve enjoyed 
>>> reading every post. It’s such a shame we have to go to extremes to avoid 
>>> bike theft - carrying heavy u-locks, being so choosy about parking and 
>>> locking, replacing parts, making the bike ugly, choosing to ride an 
>>> undesirable bike so we can preserve our desirable bike…
>>>
>>> Then there’s the other variable - how careful

[RBW] Re: A College Clem

[Mackenzy Albright]

. I’m still undecided about what bike to send, but 
>> any bike that goes with him will get skewers that are locked and nuts that 
>> prevent the theft of stem, saddle and seat post. Hexlox makes all these 
>> products, if anyone is wondering. We’ll have good u-locks, too. 
>>
>> And thanks to Jim for the mention of coverage under homeowners’ 
>> insurance. I’ll be looking into that for sure. 
>> Leah
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 7:04:07 PM UTC-4 nlerner wrote:
>>
>>> Similar to Mackenzy, I’ve been bike commuting to college campuses for 
>>> many decades, the last 30 of which have been in the Boston area. I’ve never 
>>> had a bike stolen likely because (1) I use a decent lock and (2) never park 
>>> it outside overnight. I have colleagues who would never leave their bikes 
>>> outside at all and schlep them up to their offices, navigating too small 
>>> elevators and lots of doorways, but I’ve never seen the need. Sure, bikes 
>>> get stolen around here all the time, but I’m convinced those are the ones 
>>> easiest to steal, e.g., unlocked on a porch or in a backyard or part of a 
>>> larger home break in.
>>>
>>> Now that doesn’t mean I necessarily endorse bringing the Clem to college 
>>> as it will likely get thoroughly trashed from daily wear and tear (bike 
>>> racks are not bike-friendly spaces). But I’m also always looking for an 
>>> excuse to build up a commuter for colleagues.
>>>
>>> Neal Lerner
>>> Brookline MA
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 5:07:52 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm amazed at the amount of discouragement of use of the Clem as a 
>>>> college commuting bike. 
>>>>
>>>> I've worked at universities a good chunk of my life and commuted with 
>>>> high(er) end bikes and never had any issues. I like riding nice bikes - 
>>>> which is why I own them. I've parked in high foot traffic zones (in front 
>>>> of libraries, security, etc.) or bring my bike inside ( absolute in 
>>>> downtown Vancouver) when possible or parking my bike is in eyesight 
>>>> (outside my old office at a bike rack in UVIC). Just the standard back 
>>>> wheel lock with cable around the front wheel. Nothing fancy. (no QR seat) 
>>>> Never ever ever leave them parked over night. I always avoid dark or 
>>>> hidden 
>>>> area's, especially near residence halls or maintenance buildings. Granted 
>>>> - 
>>>> some universities and colleges are more sketchy than others. I've found 
>>>> eventually other cyclists with nice or similar bikes will start parking 
>>>> around you. It's a little heartwarming. My biggest issue is the occasional 
>>>> bike jammer - which leads to fender misalignment or dents. Scratches etc. 
>>>> It's the life of a bike. 
>>>>
>>>> I am of the opinion have a wonderful bike to have a wonderful ride 
>>>> everyday not to hide in the garage. On the counterpoint - if one is going 
>>>> to be riding to the bars or parties or potential overnight parking...this 
>>>> is where the shenanigans will happen. It could be good having a "bar 
>>>> hopper" single speed or something of the sort if biking is desired in 
>>>> these 
>>>> situations. 
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 1:50:41 PM UTC-7 Ian A wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Have you considered a Brompton for a college bike? The folding nature 
>>>>> of it means it can always be safely inside with your son. 
>>>>>
>>>>> IanA Alberta Canada
>>>>> On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 8:54:39 PM UTC-6 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> It nearly kills me to say it, but my older son will be heading to 
>>>>>> college in a year. Freshman aren’t to bring cars to campus, so that 
>>>>>> leaves 
>>>>>> buses, bikes, and your own two feet for transportation. My boys have 
>>>>>> grown 
>>>>>> up riding Clem Hs; this son rides a 52 cm cast-off from my husband (who 
>>>>>> doesn’t ride, sigh). 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My 6’3” Dad had a blue 59 cm Clem on order when he died suddenly in 
>>>>>> 2020, and his blue Clem has sat, boxed, waiting for my boy to grow into 
>>>>>> it. 
>>>>>> I lugged

[RBW] Re: A College Clem

[Mackenzy Albright]

I'm amazed at the amount of discouragement of use of the Clem as a college 
commuting bike. 

I've worked at universities a good chunk of my life and commuted with 
high(er) end bikes and never had any issues. I like riding nice bikes - 
which is why I own them. I've parked in high foot traffic zones (in front 
of libraries, security, etc.) or bring my bike inside ( absolute in 
downtown Vancouver) when possible or parking my bike is in eyesight 
(outside my old office at a bike rack in UVIC). Just the standard back 
wheel lock with cable around the front wheel. Nothing fancy. (no QR seat) 
Never ever ever leave them parked over night. I always avoid dark or hidden 
area's, especially near residence halls or maintenance buildings. Granted - 
some universities and colleges are more sketchy than others. I've found 
eventually other cyclists with nice or similar bikes will start parking 
around you. It's a little heartwarming. My biggest issue is the occasional 
bike jammer - which leads to fender misalignment or dents. Scratches etc. 
It's the life of a bike. 

I am of the opinion have a wonderful bike to have a wonderful ride everyday 
not to hide in the garage. On the counterpoint - if one is going to be 
riding to the bars or parties or potential overnight parking...this is 
where the shenanigans will happen. It could be good having a "bar hopper" 
single speed or something of the sort if biking is desired in these 
situations. 

On Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 1:50:41 PM UTC-7 Ian A wrote:

> Have you considered a Brompton for a college bike? The folding nature of 
> it means it can always be safely inside with your son. 
>
> IanA Alberta Canada
> On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 8:54:39 PM UTC-6 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> It nearly kills me to say it, but my older son will be heading to college 
>> in a year. Freshman aren’t to bring cars to campus, so that leaves buses, 
>> bikes, and your own two feet for transportation. My boys have grown up 
>> riding Clem Hs; this son rides a 52 cm cast-off from my husband (who 
>> doesn’t ride, sigh). 
>>
>> My 6’3” Dad had a blue 59 cm Clem on order when he died suddenly in 2020, 
>> and his blue Clem has sat, boxed, waiting for my boy to grow into it. I 
>> lugged the gargantuan box up from the basement last week to see how if the 
>> bike would fit. “Now that I’ve obtained optimal height,” my son is fond of 
>> saying… 
>>
>> Anyway, he’s 6’1” now (likely still growing) and I need him to decide if 
>> he wants to stick with his old Clem H (that he was fond of) or settle into 
>> this Clem L. Because whichever bike he chooses is getting new wheels, dyno 
>> and fenders and going to college with him. At first he was opposed to the 
>> idea of a new Clem; he liked his old Clem, thought it looked cool. But 
>> after the - as he calls it - Big Bike was assembled, he really began to 
>> like it. “It looks elegant,” he said. It really does, all long and lithe, 
>> in blue and silver. He put his saddle and bags on the bike and we test rode 
>> it tonight. He said, “I am really liking the Big Bike. I like that my knees 
>> don’t have anything to hit (geez, were his knees hitting his bars?!) and it 
>> looks elegant. It feels more at home now that I have my old saddle on it.” 
>>
>> I have mixed feelings about sending him to college with this bike, 
>> because it’s so nice. I also doubt he’ll be able to get it on a bus bike 
>> rack - and I have no idea how often he will want to do that. His bike life 
>> is totally unknown at this point. All I know is that I’m getting him dyno 
>> because the kid has never remembered to charge a light in his LIFE and I 
>> will not sleep at night without it.The 52 takes 650b wheels and the 59 
>> takes 700c, so I don’t want to buy the wheels until I know which bike he 
>> really wants. But as of now, he wants his new bike.
>>
>> I know people will say we should just get a beater. I know why that would 
>> be advisable, but I also hate to think of a Clem languishing when it could 
>> be serving a noble purpose. I’d love for him and his Clem to journey 
>> through undergrad together.
>>
>> I am wondering…has anyone gone to college or sent their kid to college 
>> with a Clem? What do you have to say about it? Photos in the next post…
>> Leah
>>
>

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[RBW] Routine maintenance / habits / survey

[Mackenzy Albright]

Howdy all, 

I am curious in what sort of maintenance you and your Riv's (and other 
bikes) undergo. 

1. location (climate variable) 
2. how often do you tinker with your bike (customizing, small adjustments, 
wash, grease) (can you over grease?) 
3. how often do you full tear down (do you re-treat anti-rust?) 
4. when do you cave and let a shop work on your bike?

My current routine is a little lacking or in need of adjustment in a 
somewhat new to me climate. I am a frequent tinkerer of bikes - and I have 
a weird hang-ups with letting shops work on my bikes. I've only had a few 
trusted mechanics that I've really felt comfortable working on my bikes. 
I've had some things installed by mechanics and find they rarely grease 
anything which leads to rusting at contact points which bothers me. I have 
no idea the correct amount of grease, but previously never had much for 
issue myself. 

I've moved to the coast (Vancouver bc) and been finding that my bikes 
really rust or corrode much more quickly here than living in Minnesota, or 
Alberta. (winter slurry aside). I try to rinse off my bike a few times a 
week during rainy season to prevent road goo from accumulating - but that 
is easier said than done. I probably give a quick scrub with a brush and 
hose once a month (maybe every 3-6 months with soap). I probably tinker 
once a month with installing parts or making minor adjustments so these 
often coincide. 

I usually try to do a full tear down yearly where I scrub and re-grease 
everything. I love fluid film so try to give a quick respray on the most 
vulnerable areas (I like it more than frame saver) and replace any bits n 
bobs that needs replacing. I wipe down  and degrease any external grease or 
fluid film. 

After this summer's first (yearly) tear down - I noticed a lot more 
corrosion or rust than on previous bikes. I am assuming that it is perhaps 
partly related to coastal climate. Not to mention that finish on the 
Clementine is abysmal (lots of chipping and cracking). But really don't 
want to repaint if I don't have to. The frame was also initially un-treated 
and I've since treated as well as loaded up most contact points with more 
fluid film and/or grease. Hoping it'll be less of an issue now that I've 
undergone my normal corrosion prevention routine. 

Curious what your habits are - (bonus if you live on the coast!)






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[RBW] Re: Blue Lug Koma Lights in-stock at Analog

[Mackenzy Albright]

I fully submerged mine under water for over an hour accidentally. The 
switch got kind of weird but it still worked for close to a year before the 
switch mechanism stopped working entirely. I've been meaning to replace it 
but were out of stock for a long time. I've since moved to a dynamo. I wish 
Koma made a dynamo light...they look so nice. 

10/10. 

On Friday, July 21, 2023 at 11:53:06 AM UTC-7 Matthew Miller wrote:

> These were everywhere for a while until they weren't, haha. Analog got 
> some back in-stock if anybody is in the market for one. Big fan of mine.
>
> https://analogcycles.com/products/blue-lug-koma-usb-taillight
>
> best,
> matt
>

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[RBW] Re: Seat angle

[Mackenzy Albright]

brooks saddles have a bit of a curvature due to the shape of the leather 
and frame. In my experience, when you sit in a more upright position your 
sit bones sit further back on on the wider area of the saddle. Due to the 
hammock shape of the saddle you nose it up a touch to maintain a somewhat 
flat seat position to avoid slipping forward. 

not this way for everyone - there's variables like pelvic tilt, bike fit, 
core strength, and general preference. But a lot of people using b17's on 
relaxed bikes tend to nose up. 

On Friday, July 21, 2023 at 12:42:27 PM UTC-7 richdpow...@gmail.com wrote:

> I was watching the Asheville video- looks like a great event. I’m sure we 
> could lure 10’s to the DesMoines metro some  weekend for a ride. :-) Corn 
> and beans are a pretty sight you know….
>
> Anyhow- my mind wondered to the range (one?) of nose up  brooks saddles in 
> pictures. What am I not understanding? No judgement. Could I make that 
> work? When working with friends that are new riders- they seem to want to 
> have a too high of a saddle height and tilt it down. 
>
> Comments or feedback from those that nose up works for? 
>
> Killing time as a passenger traveling to a Shriner’s event. 
>
> Rich
> In DSM
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem: Fleecer Ridge vs Antelope Hill?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I am currently running racing ralph/smart sam on my clementine. As those 
wear out I will likely put a fleecer ridge on the front for gravel grab and 
an antelope hill on the back for smoth rolling. Best of both worlds. 

On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 10:38:43 AM UTC-7 mrg...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Jim
>
> I've got the 700x44 Snoqualmie tires on my Clem L in and I love them. 
> Happy to let you ride if if you like (I'm in Austin). Send me a PM.
>
> Mike  
>
> On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 12:00:11 PM UTC-5 Jim Bronson wrote:
>
>> Anyone tried either one of these tires on their Clem?  I know Rene Herse 
>> tires are a bit high zoot.  Any feedback out there?  The goal is something 
>> that rolls easily on the street, but, can mix it up in the gravel as well.
>>
>> Also open to other suggestions.
>>
>> Jim
>> Austin MSA, TX
>>
>> -- 
>> --
>> signature goes here
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Most Discreet Bell Placement

[Mackenzy Albright]

Thanks for the kind words all. I quite love the utilitarian versatility of 
the Clementine. 

I found a full sized silky biking and was convinced of their excellence. 
The Pocket boy is just as good! If you want another fun pocket-sized saw 
that is even smaller check out. It'd be great for cutting small kindling. 

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/japanese/69363-retractable-japanese-saw?item=60T2230

On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 10:44:42 AM UTC-7 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've been laughed at for my Pocket-Boy saw in my bikepacking kit... until 
> you basically save the trip with it, then everyone suddenly realizes its 
> worth.
>
> On Wed, Jul 12, 2023 at 1:40 PM Tom Wyland  wrote:
>
>> Mackenzy,
>>
>> Wow, your bike belongs on the RivBike instagram/website/email somewhere. 
>> I love to see working bikes. I hope Will is reading.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 12, 2023 at 1:34 PM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Very cool bike … and job! Thanks!
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>>>
>>> On Jul 12, 2023, at 10:32 AM, Mackenzy Albright  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Eric - I am a museum technician. I use my clementine to bring tools do 
>>> the different gallery spaces I work in. The bag is a aerial tote with an 
>>> assortment of tools I use for exhibition installations. Furthest left to 
>>> right  is a Silky Pocket Boy saw, Snap-on Ratcheting screw driver, Svord 
>>> pocket knife, occidental pouch with a flush cut pliers, small klien 
>>> scissors, higonokami knife, pica pencil, and spot for the ratcheting screw 
>>> driver. 
>>>
>>> I have a bunch of other things in the bag like a 12v milwaukee drill, 
>>> hammer, tape measure, pliers, various scrapers, square, etc etc etc. 
>>>
>>> I've thought about building a bike with a Clydesdale and attaching a 
>>> milwaukee packout kit to it. 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 9:59:53 AM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> I’m intrigued by the assortment of items in your handlebar bag. Mobile 
>>>> hairdresser? Dog groomer? Other? Inquiring minds want to know ...
>>>>
>>>> --Eric Norris
>>>> campyo...@me.com
>>>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>>>>
>>>> On Jul 12, 2023, at 9:47 AM, Mackenzy Albright  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I usually place my bell on my stem - but was playing with fit so had my 
>>>> moose bars slammed. I like keeping hand positions open so don't like them 
>>>> on prime handlebar real estate. I am pretty certain I stole this one from 
>>>> Jan Heine somewhere - but it easily fit under my seat. It worked well 
>>>> enough - wasn't hard to reach. I moved it back to the stem eventually 
>>>> because I decided I didn't need my stem slammed and like to be able to use 
>>>> a saddle bag. I would consider this placement again on the right bike. 
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 9:26:56 AM UTC-7 mcgr...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Re Spurcycle price - they have a "Frankenbell" sale every fall where 
>>>>> you can get a good deal on blems.  Mine looks perfect, couldn't ID any 
>>>>> quality issues.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 7:57:03 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Tom: I love a stem-shifter-mounted bell, very cool that the thread 
>>>>>> pitches are the same. I've never run one myself but I have threaded a 
>>>>>> bell 
>>>>>> onto a stem shifter in my shop just to try it out. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Another install I like is a Crane E-ne mounted to the downtube 
>>>>>> shifter boss, seen here on a Crust Romanceur with a one-by drivetrain. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> [image: Screen Shot 2023-07-12 at 7.52.28 AM.png]
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 7:35:00 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I indicated that I had bought a Crane ENE.  That one ended up under 
>>>>>>> the top tube on my Bla

Re: [RBW] Most Discreet Bell Placement

[Mackenzy Albright]

Eric - I am a museum technician. I use my clementine to bring tools do the 
different gallery spaces I work in. The bag is a aerial tote with an 
assortment of tools I use for exhibition installations. Furthest left to 
right  is a Silky Pocket Boy saw, Snap-on Ratcheting screw driver, Svord 
pocket knife, occidental pouch with a flush cut pliers, small klien 
scissors, higonokami knife, pica pencil, and spot for the ratcheting screw 
driver. 

I have a bunch of other things in the bag like a 12v milwaukee drill, 
hammer, tape measure, pliers, various scrapers, square, etc etc etc. 

I've thought about building a bike with a Clydesdale and attaching a 
milwaukee packout kit to it. 

On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 9:59:53 AM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> I’m intrigued by the assortment of items in your handlebar bag. Mobile 
> hairdresser? Dog groomer? Other? Inquiring minds want to know ...
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>
> On Jul 12, 2023, at 9:47 AM, Mackenzy Albright  
> wrote:
>
> 
>
>
> I usually place my bell on my stem - but was playing with fit so had my 
> moose bars slammed. I like keeping hand positions open so don't like them 
> on prime handlebar real estate. I am pretty certain I stole this one from 
> Jan Heine somewhere - but it easily fit under my seat. It worked well 
> enough - wasn't hard to reach. I moved it back to the stem eventually 
> because I decided I didn't need my stem slammed and like to be able to use 
> a saddle bag. I would consider this placement again on the right bike. 
>
> On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 9:26:56 AM UTC-7 mcgr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Re Spurcycle price - they have a "Frankenbell" sale every fall where you 
>> can get a good deal on blems.  Mine looks perfect, couldn't ID any quality 
>> issues.
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 7:57:03 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Tom: I love a stem-shifter-mounted bell, very cool that the thread 
>>> pitches are the same. I've never run one myself but I have threaded a bell 
>>> onto a stem shifter in my shop just to try it out. 
>>>
>>> Another install I like is a Crane E-ne mounted to the downtube shifter 
>>> boss, seen here on a Crust Romanceur with a one-by drivetrain. 
>>>
>>> [image: Screen Shot 2023-07-12 at 7.52.28 AM.png]
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 7:35:00 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> I indicated that I had bought a Crane ENE.  That one ended up under the 
>>>> top tube on my Black Mountain Monstercross: 
>>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53021867018
>>>>
>>>> BL in EC
>>>> On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 12:53:57 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I bought three (3!!!) bells at Blue Heron yesterday.  I've got a 
>>>>> number of bell-less bikes and the shame has become too much.  All three 
>>>>> were Japanese Crane models. 
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. A hand painted one will clamp to the stem quill on my Quickbeam
>>>>> 2. A "Spur-Like" ENE model will go on my Hetchins
>>>>> 3. A headset-spacer model will get disassembled, and I'm going to 
>>>>> drill and tap an M5 hole into the side of my CNC aluminum Cinelli Sesamo 
>>>>> stem on my Single Speed Lightning Bolt.  That will be my entry for "most 
>>>>> discreet".  
>>>>>
>>>>> Pics or it didn't happen
>>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, June 28, 2023 at 9:25:34 AM UTC-7 John Dewey wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Here's nice image of most discreet placement of the best looking, 
>>>>>> smartly engineered richest sounding, bicycle bell *ever* made. 
>>>>>> That's my story and I'm sticking to it  *;  )*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jock
>>>>>>
>>>>>> [image: IMG_0810.jpeg]
>>>>>>
>>>>>
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>
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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Build Opinions

[Mackenzy Albright]

Just to pipe in on CHOCO-MOOSE. I emailed Riv a while ago and they said 
they may not restock them ever and/or is yet undecided on the fate of the 
Chocomoose. I noticed they came into stock at bluelug and immediately 
ordered a pair and love them. They feel how I imagine moustache bars should 
feel when I imagined liking them. Sporty yet comfortable with lots of for 
and aft space. Sportier than the Bosco. more comfortable than a drop. They 
have become one of my favorite bars (even thought I think Loscos are more 
classically handsome like a porteur bar) functionally the chocomoose are 
fantastic on a long TT bike. (I got these bars as a potential option on a 
appaloosa/hunqalpillar like build from a local builder but have stuck on my 
clementine because I love them so) 

Given the lesser price - by the time you pay for bulky shipping it's still 
cheaper than Riv - plus you can order some fun blue lug merchandise since 
there will be lots of room in that box.  

On Friday, July 7, 2023 at 1:38:47 PM UTC-7 Nick Payne wrote:

> When I bought an Appaloosa, I compared the effective TT length with one of 
> my other drop bar bikes on which I was comfortable, and found it was about 
> 30mm longer. So I used a 70mm stem vs the 100mm stem on the other bike. 
> Everything seems fine - I've had it setup like that for a couple of years:
> [image: PXL_20201213_024100183.jpg]
>
> Nick Payne
>

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Re: [RBW] Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[Mackenzy Albright]

Patrick - proof Marinoni sticker is working - smoke and mirrors. I had a 
few decals left over from the restoration project so decided to stick one 
on the Clementine for fun. I was at a vintage bike swap meet earlier this 
summer and realized many could not identify the Clementine since there 
isn't a large RIV branding sticker and a less popular riv color. So I 
thought a Marinoni frame sticker would be funny (I have an obtuse sense of 
humor) 

the little metal plate is a WZRD bikes cargo deck for occasionally 
strapping odd items to the top tube. It's a little less klunky than the 
blackburn I have for city riding. I use clementine mostly for a city work 
truck these days.

https://www.wzrd.bike/justtryingtosurviveundercapitalism/p/cargo-decks
On Tuesday, July 4, 2023 at 10:26:18 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Sorry, looked closer and it's a Clem.
>
> On Tue, Jul 4, 2023 at 11:24 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> McKenzie: I was puzzled by the caption to your photo of the Platypus with 
>> the Marinoni sticker, but then came across your CR post about the 
>> refurbished Marinoni track bike.
>>
>> Track Bike: Yes, indeed!
>>
>> Platypus: I can't see the entire bike, but on faith: Yes, indeed!
>>
>> Pray, what is that metal plate bolted to cage bosses with rubber cinch?
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 4, 2023 at 11:18 AM Mackenzy Albright  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The trick is deception. 
>>>
>>> [image: PXL_20230701_230336336.jpg]
>>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Let’s say I made my Clem into a “gravel bike”

[Mackenzy Albright]

I've really learned to love fenders (honjo/VO) even outside of rainy 
season. Keeps a lot of dust and dirt off the drive train if placed 
correctly, reducing wear and maintenance. Sometimes there are unavoidable 
puddles or wet spots. Animal waste. Human waste. (City riding) keep bags 
and strapped things from rubbing. They look COOL. 

I'd like to have an bike without fenders. But I really just love fenders...

On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 1:39:52 PM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 3:35:01 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I'm curious now. Is goose poop worse than horse poop?
>
> Well, at the risk of seriously derailing the thread, ... that depends. 
> Fresh horse poop is pretty bad but it dries out quickly and then isn't a 
> problem. Goose poop stays an icky, gooey, smelly mess for a long time and 
> is a putrid green color. To try to keep this on topic ... I don't mind 
> riding without fenders where there will be horse poop. I'll do anything to 
> avoid riding without fenders through goose poop.
>
> It probably matters that I've owned a horse and so I'm kind of fond of the 
> smell of horse poop.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>

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[RBW] Re: Let’s say I made my Clem into a “gravel bike”

[Mackenzy Albright]

I've fit up to 2.3 tires with flat 65's on my Clementine. The real factor 
is being able to get your fender high enough for vertical clearance. 
especially with V'brakes. Different V'brakes are different arm lengths. 
Knobby tires really throw a lot of rocks and they ping and grind on the 
inside of the fenders. It can be a bit annoying on long rides, in my 
opinion.

My favorite setup for gravel was Rene herse Switchback Hill with fenders on 
my Romanceur. Tubeless was nice because lower pressure smooth tires grip 
well, bounce less, and throw rocks less. They are terrible in greasy mud 
(clay) however. So may be a bit regional. They work great on the west 
coast. Less well in the prairies. 

I'll probably eventually put a smooth rear tire and slightly knobby front 
tire on my Clementine. I liked tubeless but I prefer being able to do tire 
maintenance myself vs a shop since I don't have an air compressor.
On Saturday, June 3, 2023 at 2:55:28 PM UTC-7 DavidP wrote:

> Most of my favorite rides tend to mix pavement, gravel, and trails (where 
> I am we have lots of great country roads and trails of various difficulty 
> but not many long stretches of gravel). My primary "gravel" bikes are a 
> Soma Wolverine and my Platypus. (In reality, most of my bikes end up being 
> used on multi-surface rides and are thus "gravel" bikes.) The Wolverine has 
> 650x48s with VO Wavy fenders, the Platypus has 700x50s with VO Fluted 
> fenders.
>
> Gravel King SKs are pretty versatile and Rene Herse knobbies are great 
> too. Slick (file tread) tires like the Gravel King slick or RH non-knobbies 
> are also fine on gravel. 
> If you think you might also ride your Clem on light trails then some kind 
> of knobs up front can help if you encounter some mud. My Wolverine has a 
> slick (Pari-moto) rear with RH knobby front (the knobby front makes a 
> difference on muddy corners), while the Platy has Gravel King SKs front and 
> back (enough traction for light mud) - both are fine for the types of 
> trails I take them on.
>
> Tubeless or not depends on how often you tend to get flats (some locations 
> are worse than others) and if you ride the bike enough to keep up with the 
> maintenance. The Wolverine is tubeless in the rear (where I tend to get 
> more flats), the Platypus is tubed on Cliffhangers (mostly because I'm 
> getting more reluctant to add to my tubeless maintenance burden).
>
> If you find yourself riding into a strong wind, the flats of that Bosco 
> can provide a more aerodynamic position.
> On Saturday, June 3, 2023 at 4:43:09 PM UTC-4 cjus...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I used to ride the Almanzo 100 annually and introduced many people to 
>> gravel over the past decade or so.
>>
>> The Clem should be a great bike so long as you are committed to being 
>> upright.  For big rides drops are nice to get down and out of the wind, but 
>> not a need just to enjoy being on roads less travelled.  Long wheelbase and 
>> stability of the Clem is great.
>>
>> I have not ridden gravel much with fenders but based on your tires 
>> comments, the fender size seems suitable.
>>
>> I like small knobs and fast tires.  Rene Herse or Schwalbe Racing Ralphs 
>> as examples of what I am running etc.
>>
>> If you are new to gravel or off road and 42 is not feeling confident, 48 
>> seems like a great spot for you and still in your fender range.
>>
>> I still ride tubes for road and gravel.  I only ride tubeless for 
>> mountain biking.  No wrong answer really IMHO.
>>
>> Enjoy the ride and shiny side up...
>>
>> On Saturday, June 3, 2023 at 3:15:22 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I love pavement. But I’ve been on two gravel rides in the last month and 
>>> I rode a Platy either time and it wasn’t my favorite for that bike. But, I 
>>> have my old 2019 52 cm Clem L, and it doesn’t have a dedicated purpose 
>>> right now and shouldn’t that be the bike for rough and tough stuff like 
>>> gravel? Also, my Platys are prisses. 
>>>
>>> BUT. I’m not good at gravel. I have no idea what the kids are doing 
>>> these days. I have questions, and you have answers.
>>>
>>> 1. Can I keep my VO wavy fenders on a gravel bike? Here’s what I have, 
>>> and they say up to 50 mm tire will fit:[image: IMG_5029.jpeg]
>>> 2. Slick or knobby? I can’t even get a straight answer on this. Which is 
>>> better? If it matters about the rider, this will be for a rider with a 
>>> healthy fear of crashing.
>>>
>>> 3. How wide? I have 42s on my bikes now and I don’t feel like they are 
>>> wide enough. 
>>>
>>> 4. Tubeless or no? These wheels are tubeless-compatible but I put a tube 
>>> in them because I wasn’t riding enough to keep the sealant circulating. But 
>>> that can be changed right quick.
>>>
>>> Here is my Clem in its current configuration, and yes, I know the 
>>> Backabikes gotta go. 
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1812.jpeg]
>>> Thanks for your help!
>>> Leah 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Riv-inspired off-road bike

[Mackenzy Albright]

That bike is absolutely hideous, but to each their own! There's another 
frame builder that did a similar build without susp correction and toscos. 
I am certain many of Rivendell's design features will trickle into 
mainstream MTB as some innovative tech (specialized / salsa) and 
performance bike culture in general in the coming years. The way the XO-1 
pioneered modern gravel bikes and 650b revivals...

On Monday, May 29, 2023 at 5:41:10 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Interesting article for sure. Kind of lost me at “suspension corrected” 
> but still interesting. On the subject of Susie vs. Gus; when both frames 
> were available Grant said in his description that there was “no ride 
> difference” between the two. I don’t know, having only ridden the Gus. I 
> think the Gus is a very capable MTB. Perhaps not the best choice for really 
> aggressive riding but pretty darn perfect for the trails I ride & the way I 
> ride them. Also, the v brakes are definitely up to the task.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 29, 2023, at 4:03 PM, Joe D.  wrote:
>
> Here's a neat article about a rider and frame builder inspired by Riv's 
> Susie Longbolts: 
>
>
> https://bikepacking.com/bikes/maestro-rat-snake-prototype/
>
> It makes me wonder what their impression would be of a stiffer Rivendell 
> Hillibike, like the Atlantis or especially Gus Boots Wilson.
>
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> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: forthcoming Hillibike "combo" predictions?

[Mackenzy Albright]

My no evidence fantasy guess is if it's a lugged hillibike variation it'll 
be something more akin the Hunqapillar but with some updated "riv" quality 
of life improvements. Maybe gus like room for rubber and longer wheelbase. 
As much as I like swoopy tubes - diamond frames and frame bag capacity is a 
nice feature for "adventure" bikes. 

On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 10:50:12 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

> I agree with Joe. There isn't. a huge need for a Susie variant when the 
> Clem L already kind of covers that. 
>
> On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 1:20:35 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> My guess is swooptube. My hope is it leans towards the Gus side of the 
>> equation with 1-1/8" threadless and heavier duty tubes, I feel that the 
>> Susie/Wolbis side was already adequately covered by like 7 different 
>> Rivbikes. I've just started trail riding again (after many years) and may 
>> pop for this new frame if it specs out to my preferences. 
>>
>> Joe Bernard 
>>
>> On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 9:35:53 AM UTC-7 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone know anything specific about this new Hillibike iteration 
>>> scheduled for October? Care to make any speculations or predictions? 
>>> According to the latest Riv IG post, it only says "lugged, green and dark 
>>> gold".
>>>
>>> My main questions are:
>>> Will it have a straight top tube like the Platy / Roscoe Bubbe, or the 
>>> nice graceful swoopy one like Gus / Susie / Charlie?
>>>
>>> 1" threaded or 1-1/8" threadless (like Gus)?
>>>
>>> Heavier tubing (like Gus), or lighter duty (like Susie)?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Bike Snob blog becoming all-Rivendell blog

[Mackenzy Albright]

To be fair - after acquiring a real deal Rivendell, I've since become 
considerably less interested in other bikes (gasp) as it's the only bike I 
want to spend time on. I can understand where he is coming from... 

On Wednesday, April 26, 2023 at 7:12:34 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Yesterday's and today's posts are all about his Homer and he said: *And 
> yes, this is an all-Rivendell blog now,* and devoted most of both to 
> shopping and commuting (including locking up the Homer downtown for a long 
> time).
>
> In case you find his humor appealing. Riv content: Grant likes him and 
> advertises on the blogsite.
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis Old vs New?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I don't have an atlantis - but for a long time rode a crust romancuer, 
which was somewhat based off the old atlantis's. I thought it was the bees 
knees for a long time, but never felt right *for me* especially while 
trying to use upright bars. It felt amazing with drops however. Due to neck 
injuries and unable to set the bike up in it's best form decided to trade 
my Romanceur for a Clementine. It is a day and night difference of ride 
with boscos and long top tube and wheelbase. 

My summarization would be: 

For drop bar setup - an older atlantis would be nice. There are a more 
similar bikes available like the older atlantis frames. AKA large tire 
clearance touring bikes. Bassi Le Montreal, Crust Romancuer, etc. 

For upright bars - the long wheelbase and top tube rivs truly shine in 
their comfort, performance, and handling. I don't think there are a lot of 
bikes out there outside of rivendell with similar wheelbase and handling 
characteristics. I get a bit annoyed with the constant rebuttal that 
"they're just over priced 80's mountain bikes" - but they took everything 
good about 80s mountain bikes and improved it. Longer wheelbases and top 
tubes. Better steering geometry. Higher head tubes. More clearance for 
larger tires. Lots of braze on options for racks and bags. etc. 

On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 8:32:06 AM UTC-7 Ken Yokanovich wrote:

> I have a 61cm Toyo-built Atlantis. I had not ridden the bike for about 3 
> years due to some unexpected life change circumstances and then a 
> repaint/rebuild. I also have a latest-generation 57cm Appaloosa that I have 
> owned and ridden during those 3 years for recreation, errands, and 
> commuting. The current generation MIT Atlantis is very similar to 
> Appaloosa.   I recently got the Atlantis back from a repaint, and it has 
> been fun to compare the two bikes. 
>
> Atlantis
> I have ridden this bike for recreation, commuting, and have done several 
> loaded tours on it. I like it a lot, I *don't LOVE* it. At least not for 
> recreational riding. I tend to grab something else when it's time to go 
> play.  (I also own Rivendell: Custom - All Rounder, Custom - Road, Frank 
> Jones, HubbuHubbuH, Platypus) Tire widths have ranged 35-48mm. It seems to 
> handle a lot better with the wider tires, particularly when descending 
> hills on gravel. It *IS *my go to bike for loaded touring and when I 
> travel. (This is a weird combination of opposing purposes that I am 
> constantly struggling with.) I prefer the position of drop bars and 
> appreciate multiple hand options for multi-day rides and long hours in the 
> saddle. The more "aerodynamic" position is something MUCH appreciated for 
> those eventual day-long headwinds. The bike does have toe overlap with the 
> fenders, but this has never been a big deal for me. For the most part, I 
> would have a hard time telling you which of my bikes did/didn't.
> [image: Atlantis Full.png]
>
> Appaloosa
> I bought the Appaloosa as the keep-handy grab-n-go bike. My confidence in 
> upright handlebars was bolstered by the experience of riding and touring on 
> the HubbuHubbuH. I like the Bosco bars way more than I expected I ever 
> would.  I keep the Appaloosa parked in front of the car making it an easy 
> choice for errands and commuting. Unexpectedly, I have found myself riding 
> the Appaloosa for recreation too.  The bike rides much "lighter" and 
> "faster" than I expected it would.  If I hadn't just got the Atlantis ready 
> for summer touring, I would like to try taking the Appaloosa on a 
> fully-loaded tour. I think the more casual ride mood that it inspires might 
> encourage me to cut back on ambitious daily mileage goals when touring.
> [image: Appaloosa.png]
>
> Summary 
> Both bikes provide a lot of enjoyment. If forced to choose between the 
> Atlantis or Appaloosa, I would select the Appaloosa. 
> What's next or what would I do differently?  I have thought about buying 
> another Appaloosa from the next batch and building it up for loaded touring 
> so I could reconfigure the Atlantis for easier travel.
>

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[RBW] Looking for a set of Choco-moose (shipped to canada)

[Mackenzy Albright]

Just like the title says! Choco-mooses have been out of stock for a long 
time. I really like the look and feel of moose bars. They're one of the 
only bars I haven't tried out and would like to give em a whirl. 

Let me know if you have a set sitting around that you want to sell and 
would be willing to ship to Vancouver. 

Thanks! 

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[RBW] Re: 173 v. 178 Crank Arms?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I'm 6' 1" give or take with a 89.5pbh. 've ridden 165-180mm cranks. My 
preference is typically 165-170. I like the pedal clearance and prefer 
higher cadence riding. I generally get used to whatever I am riding though. 
No science based or anatomical insight, but I feel like outside of marginal 
gains and maybe physiological anomalies ones body will adapt to whatever. 

I wouldn't over think it. If you want some new cranks and got the cash, why 
not give it a try. 

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 8:26:28 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I am considering switching my crank arms. My existing arms are 173; I’m 
> thinking about going to 178. Here are the existing specs:
>
> Bike: Appaloosa 58cm with 700c wheels
> PBH: 90.5
> I’m 6’ tall and I have long legs.
>
> Here are my questions:
>
> 1: Will 178 arms work on my bike, or will I not have enough ground 
> clearance?
>
> 2: Why was the bike originally built with 173 arms? Is it a 
> standard/average size, better ground clearance, better fit for the average 
> user, toe-hitting-the-front-wheel, or another reason?
>
> 3: Is the 173 v. 178 difference so minimal that I won’t notice it? 
>
> As always, your experience, wisdom, advice, and opinions are appreciated. 
> Thanks, everyone.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hillibikers - do you stand and pedal?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I guess I should have made a disclaimer I am not looking for tips on fit or 
technique. As Patrick mentioned I am just actually generally interested in 
your physical adaptation of physical technique with evolving bicycle 
geometry. 

I love the clementine. It's the best climbing bike ive owned, and the fore 
- aft gives a lot of position variety. I am not going to gain any KOM's but 
I love the stability and traction for steep and loose climbing vs normal 
geometry. 

with my sized up clem jr i do find more ability to stand, but dont feel 
strongly it's necessarily better for climbing, but its kind of comparing 
oranges and grapefruits. 

On Thursday, March 16, 2023 at 2:48:46 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Mackenzy — I find it uncomfortable to pedal out of the saddle for more 
> than a few strokes with my hands in the primary grip position on swept back 
> bars. With a grip in the 'hooks' of the bars on Albatross, Billie or Ron's 
> Ortho bars it's no problem for me. I've installed Boscos on a bike I built 
> up for a friend and found that the secondary or hooks position ahead of the 
> levers was not very good for climbing or spirited riding. 
>
> I would think given the height of your bars, the tilt of your bars making 
> the grip almost parallel with the ground and the general shape of Boscos 
> that climbing out of the saddle would be uncomfortable and a little 
> unnatural. 
>
> I see you have your stem pretty low, do you wish for lower bars? If so you 
> might consider the Losco or the Billie, they're both plenty wide with lots 
> of sweep back but much less rise. 
> On Thursday, March 16, 2023 at 3:08:56 PM UTC-4 DavidP wrote:
>
>> Hey Damon - It's a Nitto UI-12 quill stem. This is a welded cromo, -19 
>> deg, 31.8 clamp, removeable faceplate stem. Not quite as nice and 
>> definitely not as tall as the brazed Nitto faceplate stems (CR60-3F) that 
>> Riv stocks, but my fit didn't need the extra height and I liked the look 
>> and reach of a horizontal stem extension.
>>
>> I've attached a closeup photo of the stem and bars (taken during the 
>> build, before the shifters were cabled). Note the stem height is just about 
>> max'd where I have it and many will want something with more rise.
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Thursday, March 16, 2023 at 12:21:48 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> I have not felt comfortable standing on the pedals in many years. I sit 
>>> and spin regardless of the type of bike. On a single speed, I will dismount 
>>> and walk when the slope is too steep - not often the case in Florida.
>>>
>>> I seem to remember a top cyclist from years ago advocating for sitting 
>>> and spinning, but I cannot remember who it was.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Hillibikers - do you stand and pedal?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I've recently been riding my more traditional geometry fixed gear quite a 
bit for "urban commuting". Out of necessity I've been standing and 
"mashing" more on inclines. I recall most of my "traditional diamond frame 
bikes" I would stand and pedal a fair amount. 

Every time I switch back to my Clementine with Boscos I find standing 
pedaling to be quite un-natural feeling with my hands more or less by my 
thighs. It works for a short burst to speed up my cadence but doesn't seem 
like an option for sustainable climbing. 

It's got me thinking with the laid back seat tubes, swept back bars, what 
is peoples instinctive climbing methods on "hillibikes" (not traditional 
geo rivs)

Seated spinning? Or have you found a method of standing and pedaling that 
works well. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Widest fenders that easily fit a Joe Appa?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Just FYI when I installed honjo smooth 62 fenders on my clementine they fit 
width wise, but decided to run a 2mm wider BB to avoid the need of cutting 
the fender for chain rub. Or maybe I ran a BB spacer? I can't remember off 
the top of my head now that I type this. But the included riv BB rubbed 
*slightly* on the fender when in the small chain wheel and largest rear cog 
and didn't feel like cutting up the fender.  

On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 2:40:28 PM UTC-8 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Not so fast, Doug!  Alas, there are no 60mm Berthoud 650B fenders that I 
> can find, so it looks like the V-O 58mm wavies are the best easy choice 
> after all...
>
> Doug
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 3:36 PM Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
>
>> Thanks Edwin :^)  These might be my winner, cheaper than anything but on 
>> sale V-O and the widest (of the economical options) that will fit without 
>> manipulation...
>>
>> Doug 
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 2:34 PM Edwin W  wrote:
>>
>>> Berthoud 60mm (700c) fit my 58cm Joe Appa fine with no manipulation.
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PONCHOS!!!

[Mackenzy Albright]

I used a Peoples poncho for 5+ years with a lot of success. 

My biggest complaints are

-I am over 6ft tall and it felt a bit short in the arms, and worked less 
well on upright bikes vs drop bar setups. 
-When I got off my bike it all dumped onto my thighs and got my pants wet 
-the hood is a really weird not big to fit over helmet but a bit bulky fit 
under helmet 
-i had several occasions gusts of wind blew the poncho from my back over my 
face 

Things I loved:: 

-Light and packable so I always had it in my bag 
-on the bike it worked really well 
-looked great
-the hooks on the front hook to bars great leaving your hands free. 

It's since lost its water repellence at the seams so I gifted it to a 
shorter friend to re scotch spray. I invested in the LX carradice duxback 

things i dislike: 

-heavier and bulky so I don't "always" pack it with me 
-doesn't hook on the handlebars quite as nicely, but its longer so it kind 
of evens out. 
-It may be warmer than the OPP, but only used it in Vancouver cold so far. 
All water proof fabrics I find a bit overly warm though, so ussually just 
wear wool if precipitation is light enough. 
-takes longer to dry off completely 

things I love: 

-The hood is smaller and lined, so feel confident with vision and under 
helmet placement 
-better fit as a tall person on an upright bike 
-feels like it'll last a very long time and is easily refinished 
-looks even cooler than the OPP, much more of a classic RSF aesthetic. 
-has a tether so no flapping over the head (although I think OPP add this 
in recent models) 





On Tuesday, March 7, 2023 at 1:19:58 PM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've used rain capes for a good 10 years, and they're great except in 
> sidewind. The ventilation can't be beat. With a sidewind, turning feels a 
> lot more like coming about in a sailboat. I stopped using them because I 
> started riding my road bikes off pavement a lot, and full fenders kept 
> making noise or getting in the way.  With mountain bike style clip on 
> fenders rain capes just don't work as well. Modern rain suits are now much 
> more breathable than they used to be so I've gotten used to them as a 
> compromise. 
>
> On Tuesday, March 7, 2023 at 1:00:47 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Contrary opinion from someone who lives in a desert. I recall riding home 
>> 5 miles in an immense S Western thunderstorm with howling 3/4 headwind 
>> wearing my light Campmore poncho. The rain was coming down so hard that the 
>> access road to my street flooded ~2' deep -- the 1 time I've seen that 
>> happen; I rode into it and bailed, and it was just below my knees. I was 
>> wearing shorts and the poncho has a hood. I was completely dry from throat 
>> to thigh and relatively dry from chin to hair (well, at least in back). I 
>> was very surprised that the wind didn't bother me much more than it usually 
>> does; I had a 64" fixed gear.
>>
>> Now this sort of experience around here is a once in a decade, but I've 
>> used the Campmore (and the 2 Carradices) on 15 mile homebound commutes 
>> enough to know that for some people ponchos work well, given that any rain 
>> system is going to be a compromise. As always, YMMV.
>>
>> I still have the Campmore in its little stuffsack and stick it into my 
>> bag with a Grunden's hat when it looks like rain, but I've been lucky this 
>> season. I wish I'd seized the spats that were on sale here recently.
>>
>> Patrick "in ABQ, when it rains, it pours" Moore
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 7, 2023 at 1:42 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>>
>>> Yeah, ponchos are for "in case of rain" use in my opinion - and no 
>>> replacement for rain kit when there's 100% chance of rain.  Another good 
>>> use for them is short rides in the rain so you can simply pull the poncho 
>>> off and be wearing your 'normal' clothes straight away. It even keeps your 
>>> feet pretty dry if your fender coverage is sufficient, so you don't need an 
>>> entire change of clothes for a ten minute ride. 
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 7, 2023 at 12:33 PM Will Boericke  wrote:
>>>
 I ride in the rain frequently (commuter).  I tried it in a poncho 
 once.  It sucked.

 Perhaps there are bike specific ponchos that miraculously reclaim this 
 experience through some technological innovations, but it was loud, wet, 
 and annoying.

 Will

 On Tuesday, March 7, 2023 at 2:43:10 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> Brian, 
>
> Yes.. I hesitated a moment on the recommendation for that point, and I 
> too consider it an important topic - I didn't realize until after I owned 
> it and had used it - but also didn't want to send your topic into too 
> much 
> of a tangent :)
>
> Several of my riding buddies have the Cleverhood poncho and love it. 
> My partner has a waxed canvas poncho from Bramble and Mr Twigg but it 
> hasn't seen much use yet to comment on performance. Avoiding plastics is 
> a 
> priority for me as 

[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[Mackenzy Albright]

I was able to fit Avid SL V brakes with Honjo Flat 65's and 2.1 tires on my 
Clem Smith. The Flat 65's really give you a lot of height adjustability. 
They work really really well. 

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 11:45:39 AM UTC-8 lconley wrote:

> I might just be really, really bad at setting up V-brakes.
>
> Laing
> What is hilly terrain?
> Delray Beach FL
>
> On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 12:50:28 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> I need to get Laing to set up my cantis for me :)  I have found V's to 
>> have significantly more power and tend to save my hands on hillier terrain 
>> as a result.  I run Motolites on my Bombadil (and I have the canti bridge 
>> just hanging there.. doesn't look too weird though) and while they do 
>> become a clearance limitation when you're trying to fit larger fenders, 
>> they'll clear anything that fits the Bombadil.  I wouldn't go more than 2.4 
>> or 2.5 with V's although I see Riv and Crust promoting larger; and biggest 
>> fender combo I would try is a Flat 65 with 2.1 or 2.2. 
>>
>> I will say, after running a couple sets of Motolites and most recently 
>> setting up and riding a pair of Avid V brakes ... the Avids work just as 
>> well and are even easier to set up. They just lack fanciness. 
>>
>> Jason 
>>
>> On Tuesday, 28 February 2023 at 05:29:32 UTC-8 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> The stem is the Nitto DirtDrop 100mm.
>>> I went with the widest 660mm Towel Racks.
>>>
>>> Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not 
>>> to play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't 
>>> really see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider 
>>> ugly an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the 
>>> fender clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get 
>>> their cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 10:53:01 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>>>
 Something else I have now started to realize is that cantilevers are 
 more likely to rub against a handlebar bag. Are V-Brakes preferred for 
 this 
 reason?

 Laing, what stem are you using with the towel racks on the bombadil? 
 Also, how wide did you go?

 I'm reconsidering my Riv Bullmoose choice and wondering whether towel 
 racks (660) or a spank flare 25 bar is a better way to go. 

 I plan on running a BXB goldback bag in the front

 Thoughts?

 Max

 On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 2:47:11 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> I use only cantilevers and basically will always ! Good ol' smooth 
> post cantilevers that clear the frame as opened and open all the way. No 
> silly overly long and offset pads that add nothing to the braking 
> performance. I take a certain delight(albeit comical and always good for 
> a 
> laugh in just thinking it), in denigrating v-brakes and certain 
> cantilever 
> designs, including making/selling/defending frames without rear cable 
> stop 
> bridges. Call it what you will, as so have I. ((( laughing )))  
> Nevertheless, it stands. I could also speak about how "the industry" is 
> their own worst enemy, in fact, their only enemy and the customer but a 
> witness. 
>
> I remember not long ago before the Clem Riv couldn't give a v-brake 
> away. Then with disc brakes becoming the thing, and dwindling proper 
> canti 
> manufacture and design , it didn't leave them much choice as the frame 
> was 
> a sales hit. It's like drinking a brand of beer you really don't like, 
> but 
> because the wife loves it, and you love the wife's company, you swallow 
> your taste buds,one   bitter   chugatatime.   "Ain't this 
> beer great ?   said with crooked broken smile and whose eyes betold 
> another 
> story. 
>
> What's life without a couple of good ol' stories ?   teeheehee . 
>
>
>
> So sure Max, Anything but a cantilever on your Bombadil would leave 
> you without any brake at all :-) 
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Proper(?) fitting of a Bosco or similar handlebar & Nitto V5 stem

[Mackenzy Albright]

Watch out - ordering from blue lug can become a problem. The first order 
shows up in 4 days. The next thing you know you have another package coming 
with "just a few more parts to finish the build". 

DHL is a bit weird on their brokerage as they charge a flat rate fee for 
their time which is a bit annoying, but not the worst. They are also 
extremely reliable and great for scheduling delivery and drop offs. Paying 
fees online etc. 

I find their prices are fantastic for items manufactured in Japan. You get 
to avoid paying the shop price markup on them importing the item. You just 
pay shipping+ brokerage yourself with no mark up. Plus they just have tons 
of lovely small detailed items like bolt covers, reflectors, nets, etc that 
are difficult to find in other places. 

On Friday, February 17, 2023 at 7:22:33 AM UTC-8 jad...@gmail.com wrote:

> I found circles to have lower shipping rates and lightening fast service. 
> I am in zip 59808 (Montana) and 4 days from order to delivery..
> https://shop.circles-jp.com/en
> On Friday, February 17, 2023 at 8:08:36 AM UTC-7 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>
>> The few times I've placed orders with BL have been easy with very fast 
>> shipping. If you give feedback about the site's performance they usually 
>> add a bunch of cool stickers.
>>
>> On Friday, February 17, 2023 at 9:34:56 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Well that was easy. I’ve been reluctant to order any bike parts from out 
>>> of the country, not sure why. But I pulled the trigger yesterday on a V5 & 
>>> appropriate spacers from Bluelug. A very user friendly website & reasonable 
>>> shipping. Estimated delivery next week! Not sure if there will be any 
>>> additional fees? 
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Feb 16, 2023, at 2:55 PM, greenteadrinkers  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Just mounted a Billie bar to my V5, I would say both Choco, and Billie 
>>> bars are compatible. Regarding the Bosco Bullmoose, I agree with Keith's 
>>> comment above. Below, is the Billie bar with the V5. Also, a few details 
>>> show the space between the stem and the front cap of the stem, looking at 
>>> images at Blue Lug, there is no gap, guessing that's not a big issue, but 
>>> thought I'd point it out. The bolt extends outside of the rear port, so 
>>> there's no loss in bolt length. Wow, wonder how much ($$$) a modern remake 
>>> of the Slingshot would cost?
>>>
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 1:46:18 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:
>>>
 On Wednesday, February 15, 2023 at 12:14:57 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore 
 wrote:
 Interesting; I just glommed on the V5, which I'd not seen before. It 
 seems to be a good design for bars where the moment of force is relatively 
 high, like many of the current Rivendell bars.

 Curious: I can see how a Technomic would be wholly overwhelmed by a 
 Bosco. But what about a wide-faced, 4-bolt single-clamp stem? The only 
 examples of these last are the Ritchey 4-bolt faceplate threadless stems I 
 have on 2 bikes, but I wonder if these might hold a Bosco in place firmly 
 without requiring over tightening of the bolts?

 This is not an idle question; I may try a bosco or tosco or some other 
 such long sweepback bar on the Monocog 29er, and I'd not want to have to 
 buy a new V5 stem as well as a new, expensive, bar.


 Patrick, just in case it isn't clear:  The V5 stem probably only works 
 with Nitto-made bars.  The Tosco, even in the narrower 25.4 versions, lack 
 the long sleeve swaged onto the clamp area.  On nitto bars,  i know it 
 works with the Bosco, but I think it might even be worth double checking 
 to 
 make sure the sleeve is long enough on the Billie, Chaco, Wavie, etc.  
 Starting with the Billie bar, Nitto adopted a new manufacturing method 
 that 
 combined a bulged section WITH a sleeve.  For the Bosco and older models, 
 the  clamp diameter was made up entirely with a swaged sleeve - like their 
 drop bars.

 Regarding clamp force:  Ive experimented with boscos quite a bit.  I 
 found a steel, ritchey force stem  with a broad clamp surface, to be 
 adequate, even with a single bolt.  I was eventually able to get them to 
 work in a technomic stem, and not slip after tightening enough, but found 
 this unsatisfactory for another reason.  The aluminum bars flex in a 
 torsional way, and the narrower clamp width exacerbated this.  I think 
 this 
 anti-torsion characteristic of wide clamps would be the best part of the 
 V5 
 stem.

 Ultimately, I found the steel bullmoose version to be the only Bosco I 
 can use - despite wishing the angle was different (I wish the ends angled 
 down more).  The steel is less flexy and the effective stem length is 
 150mm 
 which is still barely long enough.  It's hard to find long stems these 
 days.  (This is the problem with t

[RBW] Re: Proper(?) fitting of a Bosco or similar handlebar & Nitto V5 stem

[Mackenzy Albright]

I've found boscos to be very lenient with their "fitting". The only time I 
haven't liked them is when they are way  too close. I have yet to have them 
too far. I find the bar tilt also drastically effects the reach - if that 
is a thing of concern. 

I absolutely love the looks of the V-5 stem. On the bike's I've seen with 
boscos/loscos and V5's installed I haven't taken much notice. Could always 
"riv it up" and wrap it with some cotton tape and twine. I haven't had 
issues with a faceplate chromoly stem and loscos but imagine it'd give the 
confidence of the boscomoose. 

On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 5:56:35 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Two separate questions. Regarding the Bosco; I am curious how others 
> approach the Bosco from a fit perspective. I love mine on my Clem. Its a 
> 540 wide and came with a 135 FacePlater. Mine is positioned with the tips 
> between 2"-3" above the saddle nose. With the 135 stem those tips come back 
> perhaps not as far as most folks? When pedaling, the tips do not come back 
> far enough to cross an imaginary line between my knee caps. Turning the bar 
> the tips do cross this line but the bars are high enough to pass over the 
> knees - no contact. I fiddled with this a lot when I got the bike and the 
> way I have it really works well for me. I am just curious how other folks 
> have these handlebars set up particularly on a Gus / Susie? Thanks in 
> advance for sharing.
> Regarding the V--5 stem, I just really like it & am considering using one 
> on my Gus. Any drawbacks? From a purely aesthetic perspective it kind of 
> bothers me that the knurled center portion of the bar is exposed. A minor 
> thing I know...
>

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[RBW] Re: 64cm Clem "Reach"

[Mackenzy Albright]

I can't remember precisely off the top of my head, but if i recall the 
imaginary TT is around 70cm. 

I have a 59 clementine with bullmoose boscos and a 64 clem Jr. with a 90mm 
stem and loscos are *very similar * in total reach. 

I currently am running a positive rise 130mm ritchey force stem and loscos 
and find it extremely comfortable. I find the fit to be quite flexible. 

Im around 6' 1" with an 89.5 PBH 



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[RBW] Re: Platypus questions

[Mackenzy Albright]

Also note depending on the swept back bars, rivs lineup have gotten further 
back. 

Albatross or albastache are fairly short. Tosco, Billie, and losco are 
considerably more swept back. Likely in conjunction with longer top tubes. 

I have a 64cm clem jr and a 59 clementine. I find it easy to match height 
and reach since head tubes are pretty tall. 
On Wednesday, February 8, 2023 at 9:30:25 AM UTC-8 Johnny Alien wrote:

> From what I have seen pretty much every Rivendell has a longer reach these 
> days vs the Toyo days because they are designed around sweptback bars. 
> Which I am always a little confused by because you want to get the bars 
> closer but you have to extend the reach through geometry or long stems to 
> do it. Seems like the end result is usually the same. But yeah...I would 
> bet the Platy has a longer reach than a Toyo Atlantis. I know my Clem L is 
> way out there. I keep a short stem on it with Toscos to get it where it 
> works for me.
>
> On Wednesday, February 8, 2023 at 12:17:15 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Doug — If you haven't yet I'd recommend calling Rivendell, someone 
>> there would be happy to talk to you about the differences in the frames. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 7, 2023 at 9:26:37 PM UTC-5 mma...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Doug! Although not platypuss, I have clem L in both 59cm and 52cm if 
>>> you want to take a test ride. Holler at me, I'm in the Valley.
>>> - Matt
>>> On Tuesday, February 7, 2023 at 5:08:01 PM UTC-8 dougP wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for the response, Kim. Really, any Rivendell step thru is an 
 option. I don't do any trail riding so the Platypus is sufficient & I'm 
 guessing will have a softer ride than one of the more trail capable 
 frames. 
 A major factor will be what's available, and with Riv's current delivery 
 program one has to be ready to make a decision & commit on short notice. 

 doug

 On Tuesday, February 7, 2023 at 6:44:22 AM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

>
> Hi Doug,
>
> With the purchase of my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bicycle, it was the best 
> option for me in choosing a bicycle with a step-through frame with an 
> upright riding position as a senior cyclist. Yes, I had trouble swinging 
> my 
> right leg over the back end of my previous bike, as well.  I have been 
> looking for these requirements in a bike for quite a few years.  
> Furthermore, I enjoy the Clem's capabilities as being a ATB. A very solid 
> and sure-footed bike. 
>
> The Clem maybe an option for you ?
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA.
>
>
> On Monday, February 6, 2023 at 7:44:54 PM UTC-8 dougP wrote:
>
>> I love my Atlantis, but it's getting harder to swing the old leg over 
>> the saddle. Time to move on to a step thru. The Platypus looks like the 
>> best option for my riding, mostly short trips around town. 
>>
>> The 55 cm fits my PBH (84) & saddle height. What I'm interested in 
>> doing is comparing the geometry to my 58 cm Toyo Atlantis. Specifically, 
>> I'm curious about the distance of the seat from the bars. I seem to be 
>> shrinking in my old age & the reach on the Atlantis is just a bit too 
>> far. 
>> Not unridable but a noticeable stretch, even with a short stem & swept 
>> back 
>> bars.
>>
>> Let me know if you may be of assistance. Be forewarned I'll probably 
>> think of some more questions if this looks promising. It would be 
>> fantastic 
>> is you're in southern California.
>>
>> Doug Peterson 
>>  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I really like the way the Skid Lid helmet looks! A bit reminiscent of the 
leather helmets. I wish that helmet design was a bit more diverse 
aesthetically. It's a bit lackluster the only major innovation in helmet 
tech has been the MIPS system. 

On Friday, February 3, 2023 at 10:04:21 AM UTC-8 Jock Dewey wrote:

> In case any of you are new to Kurcharik, if there are woolies your size 
> snatch 'em up.
>
> I bought my first Kurcharik jersey in 2003 and twenty years later I'm 
> still wearing it in daily rotation. No visible wear save for some sunshine 
> fading on the backside. Otherwise looks brand new. Best deal ever!
>
>
>
> On Friday, February 3, 2023 at 9:20:42 AM UTC-8 John Dewey wrote:
>
>> I check regularly and all size S are gone nearly everywhere. Will miss 
>> these guys, they've been part of our consciousness for so many years. Great 
>> wool stuff at always reasonable prices. Good folks for sure.
>>
>> BEST / Jock Dewey
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 3, 2023 at 8:42 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> I am still or was until last week or so still getting "closeout sale" 
>>> emails from Kucharik; maybe they've finally shut down, but there were open 
>>> until very recently.
>>>
>>> Harth Huffman, on the Boblist, owns Wabi Woolens who make excellent 
>>> jerseys; better than Kucharik's IMO.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 3, 2023 at 5:16 AM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>>
 Thanks, Kim, but while the website is still up I thought John Kucharik 
 closed up shop and liquidated their inventory sometime in 2021 or 2022. 

 On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 11:01:14 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Eric,
>
> Try visiting Kucharick Bicycle Clothing. Going out of business sale !
> https://www.kucharik.com/
>
> I have bought some solid colored wool jerseys late last year from John 
> Kucharick. They are luxurious merino wool !
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA.
>
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 9:25:55 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> George — I do wish that there was more simple wool out there in nice 
>> solid colors and I think generally shorts are too long! 
>>
> -- 
>>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgsK8wgPv416Bhvezre8qTMgTypwuvx0zC%3DfpDJ_cYYxWA%40mail.gmail.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil and Hunqapillar origins: The definitive thread

[Mackenzy Albright]

One thing i've been curious about is the geometry changes over time. 

It seems the Hunqapillars were generally a bit shorter TT's and relatively 
traditional geometry while the Bombadils ran long (I'm assuming meant more 
for non drops?). Eventually all Rivendells started getting lnger and 
more swept back bar designed. The Hunqapillars took over the Bombadils in 
terms of production. Which is funny because I was always under the 
impression hunqs were cheaper bombas, but the top tubes have always from 
what i've seen been longer on the bombas. 

It seems to me the 58 hunqs and bombas were around 61-62 and the 60 (?) 
were 62-64? is this correct? It seems the charts vary as well as peoples 
physical measurements (especially with the sloping tubes) 

Has anyone ridden or tried out different length variations or a hunqapillar 
and a bombadil in terms of drop bar oriented or swept back oriented 
designs? 

On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 3:15:25 PM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for these, Max, John's build and pics are simply delicious. 
>
> Very sweet bike and poster/postcard combo, Jennings! I'd rock a Hunq tee 
> shirt with that design. 
> On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 3:22:33 PM UTC-5 Jennings wrote:
>
>> Ill play along.  I've had my 58 Hunqapillar since 2010.  Its my absolute 
>> favorite bike even over the Trek 720 and the Specialized expedition i 
>> owned.  I even have the poster and postcard Rivendell was selling when 
>> these first came out.  
>>
>> On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 11:24:37 AM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> For those not on instagram, looks the build is coming together for 
>>> John's yellow Bomba - the color looks amazing on these photos:
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_9687.jpeg] [image: IMG_9688.jpeg]
>>> Max
>>> On Sunday, December 25, 2022 at 7:41:46 PM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:
>>>
 Lovely bike, Vern! What kind of drop bars are those?

 On Sunday, December 25, 2022 at 5:30:49 PM UTC-7 plumber...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Purchased from a member of the group in July but very recently built 
> Bombadil. Excited for many more miles of dirt in the new year!
>
> [image: IMG_9161.jpg]
>
> Happy holidays,
> Vern in San Francisco
> On Saturday, December 24, 2022 at 12:41:47 PM UTC-8 
> foolis...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Presumedly, it might of sounded like I didn't like my Bombadil. I 
>> associate "overbuilt" with "wellmade" and absolutely love my bike. It 
>> keeps 
>> up with a casual road ride no problem. Impressive! It always felt like a 
>> swiss army knife. It's really great hearing all of the Bomba and Hunq 
>> info 
>> flowing. They have always been the most interesting of the Riv line to 
>> me. 
>>
>> On Saturday, December 24, 2022 at 9:34:53 AM UTC-6 Marc Irwin wrote:
>>
>>> That is indeed my Hunq and it is a Waterford frame.  I pre-ordered 
>>> from the first Taiwan production but Riv screwed up and sold mine to 
>>> somebody else.  When they realized their mistake they offered the 
>>> remaining 
>>> 54CM from the first Waterford run.  My understanding is that the more 
>>> ornate lugs require more handwork during the brazing process and were 
>>> too 
>>> difficult for the factory to produce.  My Taiwan built Sam  has the 
>>> less 
>>> ornate rounded lugs like the ones on the Taiwan Hunqs.  Everything 
>>> people 
>>> say about the ride is true.  The Hunq is a 
>>> goanywheredoanythingforbigboysbike, but, despite feeling heavy (my 
>>> frame 
>>> and fork registered 10lbs on the bathroom scale) it rides surprisingly 
>>> quickly.  I've ridden with 15-16mph groups at club and charity rides 
>>> with 
>>> no problem and could probably keep up with faster if I cared enough.
>>> [image: IMG_1831.JPG]
>>> Here's where it's taken me so far.
>>>
>>> Marc
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, December 23, 2022 at 4:26:48 PM UTC-5 Chris L wrote:
>>>
 I first discovered RBW in August of 2011 and Grant said he would 
 only recommend the Hunqapillar or Bombadil for someone my weight.  In 
 the 
 following eight years it took for me to finally buy one, I amassed 
 quite a 
 collection of Hunqapillar photos.  

 One thing I've noticed is that some of the very earliest 
 Hunqapillars have mismatched headtube lugs.  The top has points on the 
 sides but on some bikes, the bottom headtube lug is rounded, with no 
 point 
 on some bikes and pointed on the sides of others.  I'm wondering if 
 this 
 factor differentiates Tawain Hunqapillars from the MUSA/Japan (of Toyo 
 made 
 some, it seems like they did) ones.  

 The 54cm proto-type had the rounded side on the bottom lug.  

 [image: 4985768915_03bc844911_o.jpg]


>>

Re: [RBW] Re: Red Toyo Atlantis?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Wow Miles - that may be the best looking Atlantis build I've seen. Love the 
(antelope hills?) and towel rack bars. 

On Wednesday, February 1, 2023 at 1:00:24 PM UTC-8 iamkeith wrote:

> Ooh!  Sorry to derail things but, Miles, what bars are those?  They look 
> great.
>
> On Wednesday, February 1, 2023 at 8:46:18 AM UTC-7 Miles wrote:
>
>> [image: E1A443FE-8A4C-4111-B54B-B89B6697EDCF.jpeg]Another Toyo Atlantis 
>> owner chiming in here, since this thread seems to be morphing into a good 
>> resource. I’m 6’0 with around an 87 PBH and my 58 feels perfect as my 
>> all-around gravel bike. I wouldn’t hesitate to tour it either. It might 
>> look smaller fit-wise than how Grant would size it, but I think it’s the 
>> perfect bike. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 1, 2023 at 2:22:40 AM UTC-8 iamkeith wrote:
>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 2:29:49 PM UTC-7 homer...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>> Wow, you guys really are the source for all things Rivendell!!… I mean 
>>> seriously, tracking down the original owner?… Smart!
>>> Thanks to your assistance, I’ve decided to pass on this opportunity for 
>>> the moment…
>>>
>>>  I think I’m going to wait for a 60cm and honestly I need to sell or 
>>> trade my Jones LBW first, not only for the Atlantis money, but more 
>>> importantly just to keep my wife happy🙄🙂
>>> Again, Thank You So Much!
>>>
>>>
>>> My hunch is that it'd be a tad too small, but wanted to add one more 
>>> comment before you give up:  You mentioned wanting to wait for a 60cm, but 
>>> there actually wasn't such a thing in this era Atlantis.  Even though they 
>>> came in the normal-for-the-time 2 cm increments, there was an odd 3 cm jump 
>>> between this one (58) and the next one (61).  Standover and some other 
>>> dimensions took an odd turn at that increment.  You should fig up the old 
>>> geometry charts from Jim's Cyclofied website to make sure it would work - 
>>> or that this one wouldn't (assuming you have your heart set on this 
>>> vintage.)
>>>
>>> I remember this all too well, because I wanted one so badly, stared at 
>>> the charts forever, and tried to rationalize buying one even though I fell 
>>> squarely between sizes.  I was convinced it was some sort of conspiracy by 
>>> Grant, that started with the missing size 57 cm XO-1 years earlier.  I 
>>> never got the Atlantis, but did end up with a 60 Ram, a 60 quickbeam, a 60 
>>> Saluki and  60 All Rounder... because I couldn't have "the one."  They all 
>>> fit me great, but the Atlantis just wouldn't have.  (FWIW, I'm 6'-1 1/2" 
>>> and have an 87 PBH.  All torso)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  
>>> “Maranatha”!
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jan 31, 2023, at 12:42 PM, Jeremy Till  wrote:
>>>
>>> I *think* this bike was formerly owned by (former list member?) Gino 
>>> Zahnd, as evidenced by this photo from 2013, which I faved at the time: 
>>>
>>> https://flic.kr/p/f8fyGT
>>>
>>> Gino does reference selling it in the comments on the photo.  
>>>
>>> -Jeremy Till
>>> Sacramento, CA
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 30, 2023 at 9:27:02 AM UTC-8 homer...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>> I very curious about this bike. Honestly, I’ve just never seen a red 
>>> Atlantis?
>>> Does Anyone know what year this bike was made?
>>>
>>> Thanx folks 
>>>
>>>
>>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/vallejo-rivendell-atlantis-58/7578102714.html
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[Mackenzy Albright]

For some reason I thought I had read that fillet joints were lighter and 
stronger than lugs. If I recall quite a few concourse des machines bikes 
were fillet vs lugged. I just assumed it was more tedious construction 
because you have to fille joints as well as it's easier to overheat tubes. 
I love lugs but love the looks of fillet brazed when I see them. Especially 
older Ritchey MTBs. 

On Wednesday, February 1, 2023 at 10:10:30 AM UTC-8 John Dewey wrote:

> Yes, that would be most interesting debate, the two Js: Jobst V. Jan. Of 
> course, Jobst had solid engineering chops as exhibited in his work at 
> Porsche. 
>
> Ah, helmet debate. Jobst did land on his head & that was the end of the 
> road for him. Sadly...or maybe not.
>
> BEST / Jock Dewey
>
> On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 4:37 PM Philip Williamson  
> wrote:
>
>> I think he'd ride a very similar bike today to the ones he rode for 50 
>> years. 
>>
>>- Steel. He wasn't swayed by aluminum, titanium, or carbon, the first 
>>time around, so nu-Jobst wouldn't choose them either. Steel is still 
>> tough, 
>>reliable, and cheap. 
>>- Fillet brazed? I imagine this was for aesthetics, but I'd need to 
>>dive into The Jobst Hole to find out. 
>>- Rim brakes, not discs. Single pivot sidepulls (??) indicate no 
>>worries about stopping with a simple, light, rim brake. 
>>- Supple tires, but still narrow. I would love to see Jobst and Jan 
>>debate the testing protocol.
>>- Downtube shifters. Simple, light, easy cabling, and there for the 
>>two times a day he'd shift. 
>>- Yellow. 
>>
>> Philip 
>> rec.bicycles.tech
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 1:59:48 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Laing, I think you made a lot of solid arguments. Custom steel still 
>>> feels like the way he'd go, and probably not so dissimilar to his no-frills 
>>> road bikes of yore. I'm certainly grateful for his impact on the bicycle, 
>>> riders, and builders of today, and for the journalists keeping his name 
>>> alive!
>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 3:16:07 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:
>>>
 If he were still around, I think he would probably still have the same 
 setup as the 2008 photo, steel, rim brakes, clipless pedals. 
 But that is not the question that seems to have been posed. As I 
 understand the question, it is if his prime days were now, what would he 
 be 
 riding - basically not a silent generation member, but a later millennial 
 or early gen-Xer, but still a mechanical engineer, still concerned with 
 reliability, and dare I say it, under-biking. So maybe he still ends up on 
 a metal, rimmed braked bike. I think it may be easier to eliminate some 
 things, I don't see him with electronic shifting, that just adds more 
 possible unrepairable-on-the-road failure points. I want to say no disc 
 either - as it adds stress to the fork and reduces the reliability of the 
 front end of the bike. I kind of envision him on a stripped down 80th 
 anniversary Rene-Herse or Rivendell Rodeo, or possibly some sort of 
 titanium frame.

 I am a mechanical engineer also, but a boomer.

 Laing

 On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 1:42:06 PM UTC-5 andyree...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I think I'd agree that Jobst would remain an advocate for the rim 
> brake...PROBABLY. But just to play devil's advocate, if Jobst was in his 
> prime today, he wouldn't have been brought up with the old-school tech 
> that 
> we're familiar with him using, but I suppose being a *bit* of a 
> retrogrouch could still be in his cards. To me, it would depend heavily 
> on 
> his opinion towards modern wheel design and if the 11 (or 12) speed hub 
> would be a yay or nay. As I'm typing this, I'm reminded of Ritchey's 
> comment on his use of his shifters, or lack-there-of, so I'm leaning 
> towards him reverting to shorter free-hub bodies. Hell, maybe he'd have 
> beat Rivendell to the modern-day 7 speed rear hub! Or perhaps, the Rene 
> Herse rear mech would tickle his fancy. Tough call. He'd certainly ride 
> whatever it is to the ground though. 
>
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 11:51:37 AM UTC-6 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> Andrew,
>>
>> Thank you for sharing.  The article was definitely worth the read.  A 
>> few things stood out to me:
>>
>> - they were/are all *extremely *fit.
>> - fear was not a word in their vocabulary.
>> - what camaraderie (and competition) at the same time.
>> - the Higgins' couple rock.  Of course the stoker is doing all the 
>> work ;)
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>> (who's beloved stoker [Lori] continues to do all the work)
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 7:49:25 AM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm in the process of building a JB-inspired road bike but with a 

Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Haha! Touché Eric. I feel like Brandt falls into the heros of the 
retrogrouch. Grant, Sheldon Brown, Rando Jan (not to be confused with 
Business Jan)

Id love to hear a considerate counterpoint from somebody that says he'd be 
on a 54mm tire carbon open...
On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 4:59:44 PM UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:

> The Riv list imagining Jobst riding a steel frame with rim brakes? 
> Shocking!
>
> Eric
>
> On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 7:37 PM Philip Williamson  
> wrote:
>
>> I think he'd ride a very similar bike today to the ones he rode for 50 
>> years. 
>>
>>- Steel. He wasn't swayed by aluminum, titanium, or carbon, the first 
>>time around, so nu-Jobst wouldn't choose them either. Steel is still 
>> tough, 
>>reliable, and cheap. 
>>- Fillet brazed? I imagine this was for aesthetics, but I'd need to 
>>dive into The Jobst Hole to find out. 
>>- Rim brakes, not discs. Single pivot sidepulls (??) indicate no 
>>worries about stopping with a simple, light, rim brake. 
>>- Supple tires, but still narrow. I would love to see Jobst and Jan 
>>debate the testing protocol.
>>- Downtube shifters. Simple, light, easy cabling, and there for the 
>>two times a day he'd shift. 
>>- Yellow. 
>>
>> Philip 
>> rec.bicycles.tech
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 1:59:48 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Laing, I think you made a lot of solid arguments. Custom steel still 
>>> feels like the way he'd go, and probably not so dissimilar to his no-frills 
>>> road bikes of yore. I'm certainly grateful for his impact on the bicycle, 
>>> riders, and builders of today, and for the journalists keeping his name 
>>> alive!
>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 3:16:07 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:
>>>
 If he were still around, I think he would probably still have the same 
 setup as the 2008 photo, steel, rim brakes, clipless pedals. 
 But that is not the question that seems to have been posed. As I 
 understand the question, it is if his prime days were now, what would he 
 be 
 riding - basically not a silent generation member, but a later millennial 
 or early gen-Xer, but still a mechanical engineer, still concerned with 
 reliability, and dare I say it, under-biking. So maybe he still ends up on 
 a metal, rimmed braked bike. I think it may be easier to eliminate some 
 things, I don't see him with electronic shifting, that just adds more 
 possible unrepairable-on-the-road failure points. I want to say no disc 
 either - as it adds stress to the fork and reduces the reliability of the 
 front end of the bike. I kind of envision him on a stripped down 80th 
 anniversary Rene-Herse or Rivendell Rodeo, or possibly some sort of 
 titanium frame.

 I am a mechanical engineer also, but a boomer.

 Laing

 On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 1:42:06 PM UTC-5 andyree...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I think I'd agree that Jobst would remain an advocate for the rim 
> brake...PROBABLY. But just to play devil's advocate, if Jobst was in his 
> prime today, he wouldn't have been brought up with the old-school tech 
> that 
> we're familiar with him using, but I suppose being a *bit* of a 
> retrogrouch could still be in his cards. To me, it would depend heavily 
> on 
> his opinion towards modern wheel design and if the 11 (or 12) speed hub 
> would be a yay or nay. As I'm typing this, I'm reminded of Ritchey's 
> comment on his use of his shifters, or lack-there-of, so I'm leaning 
> towards him reverting to shorter free-hub bodies. Hell, maybe he'd have 
> beat Rivendell to the modern-day 7 speed rear hub! Or perhaps, the Rene 
> Herse rear mech would tickle his fancy. Tough call. He'd certainly ride 
> whatever it is to the ground though. 
>
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 11:51:37 AM UTC-6 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> Andrew,
>>
>> Thank you for sharing.  The article was definitely worth the read.  A 
>> few things stood out to me:
>>
>> - they were/are all *extremely *fit.
>> - fear was not a word in their vocabulary.
>> - what camaraderie (and competition) at the same time.
>> - the Higgins' couple rock.  Of course the stoker is doing all the 
>> work ;)
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>> (who's beloved stoker [Lori] continues to do all the work)
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 7:49:25 AM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm in the process of building a JB-inspired road bike but with a 
>>> nod to current bicycle trends: mainly wider tires and spinnier gearing. 
>>> As 
>>> a result, it's made me wonder what he would be riding today if you 
>>> spliced 
>>> his timeline and moved his prime days to current day. 
>>>
>>> Today's Radavist 
>>> 

Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I'm also curious about the opinion of Brandt on modern cycling technology. 

One thing I've noticed is he is feverishly adamant about 1. Preventative 
failures and design flaws even if miniscule. 2. Repairability in the field. 

It makes me wonder about opinions on carbon. If you get a chip or crack 
failure is catastrophic and unrepairable. Also with discs you can have 
inconsistent braking with heat fade. 

I recall a Sheldon brown thread on internally geared hubs and he (Brandt) 
and Sheldon and other forum members were having a lively debate in AW3 
hubs. Brandt argued due to false neutrals they should never be used and 
we're garbage even though the idea is great. Others argued it's infrequent 
and due to installation error (cable slack). I think about the cult 
following of the AW3 and people love them. 

It seemed brandt loved his steel, skinny tires, and rim brakes. I would 
genuinely love to see what he picked and chose as valid technological 
advances. 

On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 8:55:43 AM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:

> True.  I remember those days.  The most you see in one or two of those 
> photos are riders wearing "leather hair nets," except for one who looks 
> like he has a mountaineering helmet.  Another thing I notice is much 
> shorter cycling shorts, probably all wool with a natural chamois crotch.
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 10:31:48 AM UTC-6 Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
>> Those pictures were taken before helmets were commonly available. During 
>> Bikecentennial helmets were rare. Steve
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 4:20 PM lconley  wrote:
>>
>>> One thing I notice in those photos is that no one was wearing a helmet.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 10:49:25 AM UTC-5 andyree...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I'm in the process of building a JB-inspired road bike but with a nod 
 to current bicycle trends: mainly wider tires and spinnier gearing. As a 
 result, it's made me wonder what he would be riding today if you spliced 
 his timeline and moved his prime days to current day. 

 Today's Radavist 
 
  article 
 really fueled that question so I'd like to open it up to this group who 
 likely have much more insight into the man and his bike(s). 

 What are we thinking? Rim brakes or disc? Carbon? Steel? Ti? I see a 
 lot of similarities between him and Jan Heine as far as a desire for 
 performance and reliability, so perhaps he'd lean towards a rando build?  

 Take it away if you wish, 
 Andrew

>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>> -- 
>> Steven Sweedler
>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] My First Riv: Clem Smith Jr. L, it's all the way live

[Mackenzy Albright]

I came across your Clem a while back when I started thinking about getting 
one, both it and Dominic's build on the riv blog made me decide to rid my 
romanceur and get a Clem. I eventually found an orange 59 clementine and 
haven't looked back. It's a lifetime bike and every time I ride it it is a 
joy! 

Thanks for sharing the updates! Looks good as ever. 

On Wednesday, January 18, 2023 at 3:18:59 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> So fun to read your almost 2-year-recap of your relationship with this 
> Clem. I know how you feel; Clems are great bikes and so comfortable. I was 
> so glad when Riv decided Clems would be exclusively step-thrus - it nudged 
> a lot of folks towards trying a step-thru for the first time, and I think 
> most Clem owners fell in love with that feature. Your Clem screams READY. 
> Have a the adventures on it, in perfect comfort and total class. And 
> don’t forget to post about them here.
>
> Happy riding!
> Leah 
>
> On Wednesday, January 18, 2023 at 2:47:55 PM UTC-5 mma...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Welp, it's been a little under two years and I'm still very much in love 
>> with this bike. Dare I say favorite bike ever?  By far my favorite Riv 
>> ever; I had an orange Ram and a Toyo Homer since buying the Clem to chase 
>> the high but both didn't stick around too long.
>> I've enjoyed countless miles of big smile casual riding, errand running, 
>> and short loaded tours. In summation this bike shines because of how 
>> versatile it is. I've ridden other bikes with "do it all" intentions (cross 
>> bike w/ racks) but the handling had much to be desired; far too responsive 
>> on the front end and too uncomfortable/sketchy when loaded on the rear end. 
>> Clem L fulfills the ability to be loaded and ride well. I really don't have 
>> any interest in drop bar touring bikes at any capacity while I have Clem L.
>> Anywho, I just wanted to check in and share some iterations of the build, 
>> currently with a 1x12 transmission! I had a low-normal XT for a short time 
>> which was totally acceptable and novel. I think the best upgrade or change 
>> was the Sim Works Fun Bar 3 (RIP Terry Hall), I can't imagine going back to 
>> a bosco-type cockpit. If you're thinking about Clem L I highly suggest you 
>> CLEM IT UP. -Matt
>>
>> [image: 52632307568_d17dede0d7_c.jpg]
>> [image: 51274416243_3a37f1c90e_c.jpg][image: 
>> 51273225695_70bd27b36c_c.jpg][image: 52492573337_a65168034f_c 
>> (1).jpg][image: 
>> 52303354108_fca2254841_c.jpg][image: 52283682710_42d1a82bf8_c.jpg][image: 
>> 51963057161_323262246a_c.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rosco Mtn Mixte?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I really aesthetically enjoy the rosco bubbe. It's too bad it was such a 
short lived frame set. That XL is a good looking bike.  

On Saturday, December 17, 2022 at 9:25:04 AM UTC-8 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> I think the wheelset alone makes it semi reasonable. Having a frame/fork 
> built will be a small fortune with no guarantee they will nail the usual 
> Riv magic!
>
> On Saturday, December 17, 2022 at 9:16:14 AM UTC-8 captaincon...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> One of the best Rivs ever.  My wife has the medium, but it was a $900 ish 
>> frame new.  You could just have a builder clone it (or a small run of 
>> frames) for under $3k.
>>
>> On Saturday, December 17, 2022 at 10:45:32 AM UTC-6 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>> Ding! wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> https://www.facebook.com/groups/3127504017358010/permalink/5447624762012579/
>>>
>>> On Saturday, December 17, 2022 at 11:44:59 AM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>
 There’s a post on the Facebook Rivendell buy/sell/trade group that has 
 a Rosco with the lift-a-tube shown for sale. I can’t seem to post the link 
 here - will try in a second post. It’s $$$ at 3k, but I know people go 
 crazy for these for some reason, so heads up and maybe a Merry Christmas 
 present for someone.
 Leah 

>>>

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Re: [RBW] New Gus shipping from Canada

[Mackenzy Albright]

In my experience of shipping bikes and parts, it's generally a ~$50 flat 
fee for brokerage clerical charges no matter what and Russian roulette on 
import tax fees. Coming from us to Canada there are various import rules of 
taxation on new vs used related bikez: us parts, us manufacturers, frame, 
frame+wheels. And however customs decides to tax. I've gotten a new Marino 
frame with no costs. I've paid $125 for a used frame and fork and been hit 
with $70 tax. They make it really really frustrating and annoying. Haha. 


On Thursday, December 15, 2022 at 12:33:50 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Whoa! That’s a lot different than Jacob’s experience.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 15, 2022, at 2:20 PM, Ronald Halili  wrote:
>
> I too ordered my Gus from C&L Cycles at the end of the day of Thursday, 
> 9/22/22 and it was delivered on Wednesday, 9/28/22 to NYC. From Canada it 
> was shipped via Purolator and then transferred to UPS for final delivery. I 
> received an email from UPS on Tuesday afternoon regarding import fees 
> stating that I could either pay online or have check ready for the delivery 
> driver. I chose the latter and wrote a check to UPS for the amount of 
> $243.92 USD. As for the original question regarding clearance fee, I do not 
> know how it was calculated other than the split of brokerage fee and import 
> tax fee that was stated in the UPS email. Here is the breakdown of my 
> purchase:
>
>
> Frame/Fork/Headset/54cm Orange
>
> (C$2600.00 + C$199.19 Shipping)
>
> = $2095.83 USD
>
> + $191.42 USD Import Tax
>
> + $52.50 USD Brokerage Fee
>
> = $2339.75 USD
>
> On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 12:34:08 PM UTC-5 jacob...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I bought my Gus from C&L Cycles out of Montreal. They shipped it to me 
>> (Pennsylvania) via UPS. I think it took 3 days? UPS sent me the bill for 
>> import fees and I think it was around $50. Dead simple process. 
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Jacob
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 12, 2022, at 12:01 PM, Richard Rose  wrote:
>>
>> Yes, the Gus I found is at a Riv dealer in Canada. Having googled until 
>> I cannot stand it anymore I ask; anyone have experience with "clearance" 
>> fees associated with importing a bicycle frame from Canada? The closest I 
>> have come to uncovering the cost is that items valued under $2,500.00 US 
>> are less expensive and easier to do than items over $2,500.00. I started a 
>> Bikeflights estimate and I get the shipping cost and a message that 
>> clearance fees will be calculated and added to order. 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
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Re: [RBW] Saddle height and BPH

[Mackenzy Albright]

I find a more slack seat tube I run my saddle a bit lower than a steeper 
counterpart. 

Ride whatever is comfortable. Don't worry too much about stand over. French 
fit looks great. 

On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 5:59:19 AM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Jay, I noticed your mention of the Pedaling Innovations Catalyst pedal. If 
> you are using a mid-foot position on your pedals ( I do) you may need to 
> adjust your saddle down 2-3 cm. I discovered this on my own then confirmed 
> it with Pedaling Innovations. For this and other reasons I do not favor the 
> PBH method of determining saddle height. It’s more a guideline than a rule. 
> I have used the knee slightly bent at bottom of stroke for 50 years without 
> injury or incident.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 12, 2022, at 12:49 PM, Jay Lonner  wrote:
>
> I just took delivery of a new (non-Riv) bike and am dialing in the fit. 
> I’m a little worried that the frame is too big for me, since I only have 
> maybe 2” standover, which seems tight for a gravel bike.
>
>
> So I went out and measured the saddle height on my Hunq (which is a size 
> 62). It came in at about 75cm. This gives me a solid fistful of seatpost. 
> Then I remeasured my PBH, which is 93-94 cm depending on hard I pull. For 
> reference, here’s the relevant page from HQ:
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-bone-height-how-to-measure-your-pbh
>
> This suggests that based on my  PBH my saddle height should be closer to 
> 83 cm – an 8cm discrepancy. Before riding in this morning I raised my 
> saddle height to 79 cm, basically splitting the difference. It felt weird, 
> which of course it would after so many years at 75cm. But I made it in and 
> my feet were in full contact with the pedals without any tippytoe 
> maneuvers. So I guess I’ve been doing it wrong this whole time? Kind of 
> embarrassing. Even so, according to the Riv method my saddle height is 
> still ~4cm lower than my PBH would suggest. 
>
> So I guess I’m wondering about alternative ways of determining saddle 
> height somewhat objectively, and/or whether I should now be looking at 
> other variables such as a fore-aft saddle positioning, saddle angle, and 
> even saddle type (currently a B68, slammed back as far as it can go on a 
> S83, with the nose pitched up ~10 degrees or so). Other relevant factors 
> might be crank arm length (175mm), pedal height (Pedaling Innovations 
> platform pedals), and shoes (Chuck Taylors, typically). Looking for the 
> optimum balance of comfort, efficiency, and protecting my perineum.
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
>
>
>
>
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> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nivex on a Rivendell?

[Mackenzy Albright]

My assumption is this der setup would be a lifelong purchase? Seems like 
most bikes that had this originally are still functioning. I'd imagine it'd 
Pay for itself on a bike that was owned and ridden for manymany years. 

I think it's beautiful. I won't buy one any time soon. But if I ever win 
the lottery. First superfluous bike purchase. 

On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 8:06:56 AM UTC-8 greenteadrinkers wrote:

> The shift lever looks as though it would have to be mounted only to a 
> downtube shift boss, guessing one might have to forgo bar-end shifting.
>
> Scott
>
> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 9:47:50 AM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> The price point + the added cost of having to modify a frame with the 
>> proprietary braze-on it needs to mount it would make this impractical 
>> beyond the derailleur cost alone for most folks.
>>
>> On Dec 13, 2022, at 9:32 AM, Eliot Balogh  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> I think Grant said ~$170. Sensah offered to do them for $350 which he was 
>> adamantly against as he wanted them to be affordable and functional rather 
>> than something artistic that no one bought. 
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 13, 2022 at 6:24 AM Shoji Takahashi  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'd love to try it-- unfortunately an unlikely proposition for me.
>>>
>>> After seeing the RH price point, I'm scared to think what the Riv 
>>> derailer will cost. 
>>>
>>> shoji
>>> arlington ma
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 8:39:29 AM UTC-5 Bill Schairer wrote:
>>>
 I'm intrigued but consider all the bits needed to make it happen and 
 one is probably looking at more like $1,500 and, besides that, most of 
 those added bits aren't available!?  I'm still intrigued, though.

 Bill S
 San Diego

 On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 3:56:18 PM UTC-8 Garth wrote:

> I'm all peanut gallery on this one. I'm reminded of a Canadian rock 
> band I listened to as a teen named Max Webster. They had an album called 
> "High Class in Borrowed Shoes". I never really related much to that title 
> until right now.. and how underneath the inflated image of "high 
> class" 
> resides the person, place or thing as it truly is. In this case, it's 
> "just" a derailleur regardless of the sales pitch and inflated sense of 
> worthiness. Not to diminish the "just", I mean that as the authenticity 
> of 
> Existence. A derailleur is a marvelous and ingenious thing and no amount 
> of 
> over or under inflating can change that. 
>
>
>
> -- 
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Cliffhanger alternatives?

[Mackenzy Albright]

IME: type or riding pending rim width in popular bike market is a bit 
inflated. I run 2.5's on 19mm inner width with no issues. Ive ran rat traps 
on 17mm inner width tires. The main issue is rolling at low pressure if 
running tubeless. I've gotten over the perks of tubeless because I like to 
self service my bike. With tubes if the pressure is kept in check I've had 
no issues. 

Ive also asked Jam Heine about this early on when rat traps came out. The 
width changes the tire shape and ride characteristics. A narrower rim gives 
better pneumatic suspension, restricts footprint,  but will roll at low 
pressure. Wider rims spreads tires giving a larger foot print, ability to 
run lower pressure without rolling, but sacrifice some of the squish. 

I wouldn't run narrow rims on a downhill bike with 2.6 tires. But for slow 
trail mashing over rocks and roots.

I think that bike industry wants to cover it's ass for legal reasons and 
sell you specialty parts. There's a lot of wiggle room. 

*Based on experience and opinions. There are a lot of variables in play 
here, so it's not going to be universal for everyone. Just a counter point 
to everyone thinking they need 25mm internal width rims. 

On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 8:35:02 AM UTC-8 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> Interesting. I can’t imagine not having tubeless with bigger tires 
> especially. Been tubeless for about 10 years and have never had one issue. 
> I did have trouble with my first set needing to be pumped back up every few 
> days for the first month or so. A shop set those up though. I have found 
> that using a tube for a quick ride to make sure the tape is set to be a 
> key. Shops do not take the time for that. 
>
> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 8:25:41 AM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good to know!
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 13, 2022, at 11:09 AM, Ryan Frahm  wrote:
>>
>> Richard, my 2.5” Ehline measures right at 2.5”. They are huge sitting 
>> next to the Fleecer Ridge 55mm. They roll very fast compared to the Maxxis 
>> tire as well. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 8:07:31 AM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Keith, are those rims tubeless compatible? 
>>>
>>> As for machined sidewall, neither set of my cliffhangers have them and 
>>> braking hasn’t been an issue even with the ice and snow. I have seen 
>>> plenty of 2.8” tires successfully run on a 25mm ID (like the cliffhanger) 
>>> rim so i wouldn’t worry much there. You just can’t go quite as low with the 
>>> tire pressure or they get a bit squirmy. Rider weight makes a big 
>>> difference on that though at a certain point as well. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 8:01:29 AM UTC-8 iamkeith wrote:
>>>

 I used the Nimbus Dominator Unicycle rims on my Susie.  42mm outside 
 /.32 inside.  They don't offer the machined sidewall version anymore, but 
 I 
 haven't had braking issues.  I can detect the pinned joint at times, but 
 it's not a detractor.  They're stronger than any other rim  (they're meant 
 to carry a rider's e tire weight on one unsuspended wheel) but feel MUCH 
 lighter in reality than they do on paper.  I wasn't too concerned about 
 long-term aesthetics, but the brake surface has held up remarkably well.  
  It's a good anodizing.  I have anodized rims on one of my most used bikes 
 from 1997 where the finish has held up well, too.  In both cases, the 
 blemishes occur when you use them in wet, muddy conditions and get grit on 
 the pads. I have some Kris Holm 29er unicycle rims too, that are even 
 wider 
 and DO have a machined braking surface, but they'd be hard to find. 

 Ive posted pics of my susie a few times here over the past couple of 
 years, but can try to take some more if you're interested.
 On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 8:41:01 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:

> 2mm wider.
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 10:39:16 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>
>> Alex DM-24. When I was deciding what rims to get built for the 
>> Hubbuhubbuh, Rich said that the Alex rims were slightly wider - 1mm -> 
>> 32 
>> mm wide.
>>
>>
>> Laing
>> Delray Beach FL
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 10:29:31 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> 2.5"-2.6" tires seem to be at the very upper limits for the 
>>> venerable Cliffhanger. Is anyone aware of a 700c  rim brake rim that is 
>>> a 
>>> bit wider? I have not found one.
>>
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[RBW] If you convince Rivendell to bring back "one" former model

[Mackenzy Albright]

All these threads about "choosing the one Riv" or "how do I pick which 
model" got me thinking. If you could convince Rivendell to resurrect one 
out of production modelwhich would you choose? 

After acquiring a Clementine after a new Clem Smith Jr, I see merit of the 
geometry of the Clementine as a standalone step through that feels like a 
long wheelbase agile bike rather than a floaty surfboard. I absolutely 
adore both-but they're extraordinarily different, despite being a natural 
and logical evolution. I really enjoyed the reference of the thread "a tale 
of two clems" by Ding Ding! as I found similarities in my experience. 

The evolution of Rivendell's is absolutely fascinating to me as there has 
never been a hang up for changing tried and true models. XO-1 - ALL Rounder 
- TOYO Atlantis - MUSA Atlantis - MIT Atlantis. People are still obsessive 
with each rendition of a concept over its evolution. 


SOoo long story short. I would choose the Hunqapillar. Hands down. 

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[RBW] Re: Book recommendations for learning how to build up a bike

[Mackenzy Albright]

Not to discourage books. I love books. Just an FYI I am a really really 
really big fan of the Sheldon Brown website. Every time. i need to do a 
thing to my bike that I cant remember how to do it i just type whatever I 
need and sheldon brown.  like "chain length sheldon brown"  problem solved. 

I love that every write up is well written. builds in problem solving and 
issues based DIY compatibility options instead of assuming group sets and 
new parts. etc. 

I wish somebody would just compile the sheldon brown website into a 
hardcover book. ISOLA PRESS. After jobst brant - here is your next project! 

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 10:14:20 AM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:

> My experience with bike mechanic books is that they all say the same 
> stuff, but in different ways, with different styles of illustrations or 
> photographs, and in varying degrees of detail. It might be worth a trip to 
> the library to flip through a few of them and see what jives with your 
> experience and preferences.
>
> The one I used as a kid was called something like "How to fix your 
> bicycle" and it just confused me (and my dad who is a competent mechanic). 
> So definitely skim anything you can before you buy it.
>
> The content I would really want in a book is tips and tricks, like how to 
> hold everything just right to get the cable tension for my brakes perfect 
> and what parts are compatible with other parts (like using a 9 speed chain 
> on 8 speed cassettes, or using Shimano road shifters with mountain 
> derailers). I don't know of a book that has that stuff, but I bet there is 
> one out there that does.
>
> Paul in AR
>
> On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 9:08:04 AM UTC-6 Stephanie A. wrote:
>
>> As I continue to change things on my current bike, I've realize that what 
>> I really want is a book that helps me understand building up and 
>> maintaining a bike. YouTube videos and helpful websites are great. I'm so 
>> thankful that they exist. But my brain craves a single, cohesively written 
>> text I can easily read through and turn to when I'm thinking about changing 
>> shifters, selecting different drivetrain parts, understanding geometry, 
>> taking apart bikes, wiring, and making adjustments. I really only see 
>> myself dealing with non-fixie commuters and touring bikes.
>>
>> I found a book online called *How to Build a Bike (in a Weekend)* by 
>> Alan Anderson with illustrations by Lee John Phillips. Has anyone used 
>> this? Does anyone have other suggestions?
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus max tire with fenders?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Admittedly, the flat 65's were probably one of the most pleasant to install 
ive dealt with. Granted I have all the tools and bits and bobs. But they 
just really "fit" no fuss. Hardware was great and intuitive. The Clem has 
ample clearance. Only downside is the kickstand mount needs a long spacer. 
Plus, I ended up putting electrical shrink tube where the fender stays 
contacted the fender because of a little bit of rattle, which others have 
also complained about. 

On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 4:56:16 PM UTC-8 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> Very Nice Mackenzy! I was actually thinking of those fenders for my Clem, 
> and possibly the Platypus. The SW  Honjo fender is a bit more work to 
> install but definitely worth it in my opinion. 
>
> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 4:36:16 PM UTC-8 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>
>> I splurged and put Simworks Flat 65's on my Clem - They work really 
>> really well to give a lot of clearance especially if you use something that 
>> isn't a slick that might toss and occasional pebble. 
>>
>> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 2:37:12 PM UTC-8 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Great information, thank you! I just unboxed my wife’s frame a couple 
>>> hours ago.  Frame saver sprayed and drying now. I’m very excited to build 
>>> it up for her! She hasn’t decided on fenders or tire size yet. I did a 
>>> quick test fit of a Fleecer Ridge that I have on a Cliffhanger and it was 
>>> tight up front. Didn’t pay a lot of attention to above the tire, maybe with 
>>> something like a flat Honjo fender? She really wants the Ultradynamico grey 
>>> tires but 42mm ish or 2.2” are the options. We’ll see how it comes together 
>>> when parts start coming in!
>>>
>>> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 1:40:02 PM UTC-8 DavidP wrote:
>>>
>>>> Rivendell says "up to 48mm fendered" and I've seen a few Platypus 
>>>> builds with fendered Shikoro's. I have a 700x50 Gravel King on the back of 
>>>> my Platypus and it looks like there's room for a fender. Clearance 
>>>> actually 
>>>> looks tighter at the fork, both vertically to the crown and in width as 
>>>> the 
>>>> distance between the lugs at the crown is only 60mm.
>>>>
>>>> My front tire is a Fleecer Ridge and I test fit a Planet Bike Cascadia 
>>>> 60mm fender, which is fairly flat and thin, and the vertical clearance 
>>>> between the top of the tire and the inside of the fender at the fork crown 
>>>> was only a few millimeters - it seems too close for a knobby. The same 
>>>> fender looks ok on the back at all the stay intersections.
>>>>
>>>> So it seems like 48mm is a good general max, but you could probably 
>>>> squeeze 50s with the right fenders.
>>>>
>>>> I have another bike with a fendered Juniper Ridge front (same tread as 
>>>> the Fleecer ridge but 650x48) and it's actually not too bad in the noise 
>>>> department.
>>>>
>>>> -Dave
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 4:01:32 PM UTC-5 Tom Palmer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>> After 1 ride on my new to me Platypus, I am thinking larger tires. I 
>>>>> have 42mm tires now because they were in the bin and would work with the 
>>>>> bin fenders too. How big a tire you running with fenders on your 
>>>>> Platypus? 
>>>>> Mine is a 60cm for reference. I have some Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge tires, 
>>>>> but think they would constantly be throwing noisy dirt/pebbles if they 
>>>>> fit 
>>>>> at all with fenders. I like a quiet riding experience.
>>>>> any experience is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> Tom Palmer
>>>>> Twin Lake, MI
>>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus max tire with fenders?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I splurged and put Simworks Flat 65's on my Clem - They work really really 
well to give a lot of clearance especially if you use something that isn't 
a slick that might toss and occasional pebble. 

On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 2:37:12 PM UTC-8 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> Great information, thank you! I just unboxed my wife’s frame a couple 
> hours ago.  Frame saver sprayed and drying now. I’m very excited to build 
> it up for her! She hasn’t decided on fenders or tire size yet. I did a 
> quick test fit of a Fleecer Ridge that I have on a Cliffhanger and it was 
> tight up front. Didn’t pay a lot of attention to above the tire, maybe with 
> something like a flat Honjo fender? She really wants the Ultradynamico grey 
> tires but 42mm ish or 2.2” are the options. We’ll see how it comes together 
> when parts start coming in!
>
> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 1:40:02 PM UTC-8 DavidP wrote:
>
>> Rivendell says "up to 48mm fendered" and I've seen a few Platypus builds 
>> with fendered Shikoro's. I have a 700x50 Gravel King on the back of my 
>> Platypus and it looks like there's room for a fender. Clearance actually 
>> looks tighter at the fork, both vertically to the crown and in width as the 
>> distance between the lugs at the crown is only 60mm.
>>
>> My front tire is a Fleecer Ridge and I test fit a Planet Bike Cascadia 
>> 60mm fender, which is fairly flat and thin, and the vertical clearance 
>> between the top of the tire and the inside of the fender at the fork crown 
>> was only a few millimeters - it seems too close for a knobby. The same 
>> fender looks ok on the back at all the stay intersections.
>>
>> So it seems like 48mm is a good general max, but you could probably 
>> squeeze 50s with the right fenders.
>>
>> I have another bike with a fendered Juniper Ridge front (same tread as 
>> the Fleecer ridge but 650x48) and it's actually not too bad in the noise 
>> department.
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 4:01:32 PM UTC-5 Tom Palmer wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>> After 1 ride on my new to me Platypus, I am thinking larger tires. I 
>>> have 42mm tires now because they were in the bin and would work with the 
>>> bin fenders too. How big a tire you running with fenders on your Platypus? 
>>> Mine is a 60cm for reference. I have some Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge tires, 
>>> but think they would constantly be throwing noisy dirt/pebbles if they fit 
>>> at all with fenders. I like a quiet riding experience.
>>> any experience is greatly appreciated.
>>> Tom Palmer
>>> Twin Lake, MI
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: saddle angle and lower back pain

[Mackenzy Albright]

you know, one more quick note on my ride into work today. I've noticed on a 
slacker seat tube bike in a "more upright" position - i do run the saddle 
height just a touch lower than a steeper ST counterpart. maybe ~1/4 to 3/8 
of an inch. 

ive noticed while fitting new bikes sometimes dialing the height can also 
effect the lower back, reach an STA pending 

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 6:11:37 AM UTC-8 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 7:21:55 AM UTC-6 ascpgh wrote:
>
>> If I find the actual fore and aft dimension of my sit bone movement and 
>> the place it occurs on the saddle I discovered that all of my over thought 
>> adjustments are almost always such that this range of motion always ends up 
>> level, independant of the rest of the saddle's resultant attitude.
>>
>
> Yes! I hadn't thought about that before, but as I was doing a 60-mile ride 
> yesterday I realized the same thing. My preferred tilt of a saddle puts the 
> low spot in the center of the fore-aft range where I ride, typically pushed 
> back a bit going up hills. 
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>

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Re: [RBW] The Rivendell Ride

[Mackenzy Albright]

I think the reason that Rivendells ride the way they do is the same reason 
Rivendell will never be financial powerhouse or direct "influencer". Grant 
is interested in feel, function, and aesthetic balance that  is "just 
right" counter to any sort of industry "trend" "study" "statistics" etc. 

He'll go down in history as an amazing designer and pioneer as an advocate 
for many trends. Ie steel, wheel sizes, rim brakes (revival - its 
happening), and I dare say eventually "wheelbase" will become a hot trend - 
i am calling it. watch out for specialized "long wheelbase bikes"

Admittedly, going from the original hunqapillar and atlantis traditional 
triangle frames towards the step through long wheel base bikes, i was 
extremely skeptical. But honestly they're some of the best feeling bikes 
ive ever ridden and grown to love them aesthetically. I think the design 
evolution starting with some of the early bridgestones through time into 
the current line of bikes makes perfect logical sense. I look foward to 
every model they release these days. 

It drives me nuts when people call rivendells overpriced 80's mountain 
bikes or "just get a long haul trucker its just a cheaper atlantis" it's 
comparing apples to apple pie. 

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 12:54:10 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

> Thanks, Randy. After pushing go, I reread your post and realized you were 
> discussing the Appaloosa. Are they a bit heavy? I've heard same about 2TT 
> Atlantis.
>
> On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 12:47:09 PM MST, larson@gmail.com <
> larson@gmail.com> wrote: 
>
>
> Scott,
> I have never ridden an Atlantis, but would love to, and believe that you 
> will love it. Looking forward to hearing your impressions going forward.
> Randy
>
> On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 1:41:14 PM UTC-6 Scott wrote:
>
> Randy,
>
> I'm curious, too, to get the group's take on your question as to weight 
> vs. ride quality, as I'm currently building a new 62 Atlantis F/F. I'm 
> wanting to do some dirt touring and bike packing on it. Hope I'm not in for 
> a fat hog...
>
> Scott
>
> On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 06:55:28 AM MST, larson@gmail.com <
> larson@gmail.com> wrote: 
>
>
> I built up a 2TT 62cm Appaloosa in February as my first Riv, and have 
> enjoyed it very much. The over riding impression is that I know that this 
> is a heavy bike (from lifting it onto my hitch rack), but it rides lively 
> and relatively light, and comfortable and stable. It is hard to wrap my 
> head around the contradiction of the weight of the bike vs. this ride feel 
> and seems to be one of the defining Rivendell ride characteristics from the 
> opinions of others.
> Randy in Wisconsin
>
> On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 6:32:53 AM UTC-6 Chris L wrote:
>
> I remember reading where Grant, or one of his long-term employees but I 
> think Grant, said on front end geometry handling there are a few numbers 
> they hold to but they don't discuss them outside the shop.  Trail would be 
> an obvious one, but I've always thought it would be interesting to hear the 
> rest.  Jan Heine gets into what might be some of RBW's other unspoken 
> factors in his book on performance bicycles.  
>
> On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 10:38:08 PM UTC-6 pi...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
> Grant's 1993 Bridgestone RB-1 had a 54mm trail with 25mm tires. The 2022 
> Roadini had a trail of around 58mm but with a 5mm lower BB. The Cheviot (I 
> can't find numbers for the Platypus) had a trail of 58mm with a 25mm tire 
> (but obviously few people would run 25mm tires on that bike), but even with 
> a 33mm tire it'll still be a 61mm trail, making the bike steer a little 
> slower but still agile. I had a custom bike built around the 1993 RB-1 
> geometry with a lower BB, and it rides similarly great. Now when it comes 
> to compliance, stiffness, etc., the tubing thickness etc matters more, but 
> in terms of handling I think Grant has it dialed down and you can see that 
> he pretty much keeps all his bikes in the same zone when it comes to trail. 
> The longer wheel base that he's been going for recently adds alot to 
> stability and high speed handling at the expense of packability into bike 
> boxes, which few care about. If you were to buy say, a Craig Calfee carbon 
> framed bike, it actually has a very similar geometry too the RB-1, and 
> rides similarly, but of course being made out of carbon and with a short 
> wheel base and relatively little tire clearance chances are that bike 
> wouldn't appeal to the same people who like Rivendell bicycles.
> On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 6:09:47 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Oh I haven't the first clue how Grant does it. There's something going on 
> with the numbers and tubes that makes them ride like a Harley Softail on 
> the straights AND a Ducati Panigale in the turns. It's bonkers! 
>
> On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 5:51:31 PM UTC-8 J J wrote:
>
> You hit it on the head, Joe. Thanks for the thread. 

[RBW] Re: saddle angle and lower back pain

[Mackenzy Albright]

I think there is a small ducktail effect at the back of the saddle. It's 
quite old (it might be an early first generation) I wouldn't doubt if 
there's some stretch or sagg from years if use. You can see where I sit on 
the saddle as it's a bit more worn in the area. 

I may have just won the lottery with my personal fit. I also feel like the 
boscomoose feel like they were designed for the bike (werent they?) 
Everything just kind of settled into place on this build quite intuitively. 

I wanted to originally put a b17 on it  and I may still but it just works 
well at the moment. To be fair I haven't really ridden more than 20-30k 
with this setup. hopefully ill get some longer day rides soon. 

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 12:59:08 PM UTC-8 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:50:35 PM UTC-6 Mackenzy Albright 
> posted a photo of his Riv with a Cambium saddle
>
> Interesting - from that angle it looks like the Cambium has some dip to 
> it. All the other photos I've seen make it look like it runs straight along 
> the top from nose to tail.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Is a Gus the right choice for me? Would a Platypus be better?

[Mackenzy Albright]

I wish I had tried flat bars (or nitto wavies) on the romanceur before I 
sold it. I did appreciate it's slow speed maneuverability, especially while 
climbing. it may have been a good compromise to drop bars vs swept backs! 
Maybe it would have mitigated some of the front wheel lifting off bumps in 
really low gearing climbs. That being said I ran my romancer with 26" 
wheels and racing ralph 2.1's and felt like I was constantly getting pedal 
strike. 650 was better, but I felt it lost some of the spryness I loved so 
much. I am going to get a custom made based off the romancer with a few 
tweaks. It was a memorable bike and very much enjoyed my time with it. But 
agreed bikes are so much subjective! haha 

the clem does love a decent! I also feel like the clementine was quite a 
bit shorter than the JR. It's really a shame they didn't keep the original 
clementine on the roster, I think it's a really swell feeling bike. 

On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 8:20:18 PM UTC-8 Hoch in ut wrote:

> Apparently, this is all subjective, because I felt just the opposite! 🙂 
> The Clem was so long, much longer than what I’d been used to mountain 
> biking for 30+ years. The trails here are fairly chunky, and maneuvering 
> around rocks and/or high-centering became issues. I thought I’d adapt, but 
> never could. 
> The Romeo (with flat bars) handled razor sharp and I could weave around 
> and over all obstacles without the fear of pedal strikes or getting hung 
> up. We’ve got some steep climbs here and I never had a problem with the 
> front end wandering. I just felt “at home” with it in just about every 
> aspect. 
>
> One thing the Clem absolutely destroys the Romeo and other bikes is 
> straight line descents. I could bomb steep gravel roads like Bode Miller 
> soaring down a run. 
>
> Both good bikes. Just depends on what you prefer and are used to. I 
> personally gave the long wheelbase a couple of tries but couldn’t ever come 
> to grips with it. You might. 🙂
>
> On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 5:16:39 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>
>> RE those comparing Romanceurs and Rivs 
>>
>> I loved my (XL disc) Romanceur - but have a bad shoulder / neck. I 
>> couldn't run drops. It didn't handle that well with upright bars IMO. The 
>> short wheelbase makes it hop  and wheelie a lot climbing. I love climbing. 
>> It rode amazing with a shortish stem and towel racks, but was a real neck 
>> destroyer. Looked great though. Hauled front basket cargo like nobody's 
>> business. I loved it - but not for me. 
>>
>> I traded it for a Clementine 59 and (also bought a) Clem Smith JR 64. OG 
>> clementine feels a tad like the Romanceur a bit with a bit more room in the 
>> front for swept backs and appropriate chain stays to keep it on the ground. 
>> Climbs wonderfully. Clem JR just cruises like nobody's business. One of the 
>> most fun and cruisey bikes ive ever ridden. The more slack head tube makes 
>> it a bit floppier than the Clementine with a high front load (ie basket or 
>> porteur bag) Im likely going to keep the Clementine and part with the JR 
>> only because of slight overlap and lack of space. 
>>
>> Now that I took the RIV plunge, having a high maintenance body that gets 
>> pissed off easily, I can't imagine not owning a rivendell for my main ride 
>> anymore. I dont think you can make a wrong decision. I think it comes down 
>> to more or less tire size, aesthetics, and availability. Each has their 
>> slight niche variations, but overall no matter what be amazing. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 3:47:06 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson wrote:
>>
>>> Triples are my fave. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 3:14:06 PM UTC-8 jacob...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> It’s the Mermaid color. They only had one in stock so the decision was 
>>>> pretty easy. 
>>>>
>>>> Right now I’ll be going 3x9. I bought a NOS Ritchey triple recently to 
>>>> put on my Long Haul Trucker but it’ll be going on the Gus. I could see 
>>>> going 2x9 or 2x10 at some point. White Industries makes some really nice 
>>>> stuff. 
>>>>
>>>> It’s funny because I just bought some Paul Motolite brakes for the 
>>>> Trucker and now they’ll be pulled for the Gus. Back to the mismatched 
>>>> v-brakes. 
>>>>
>>>> I still need wheels but I found a cheap set on eBay. They’ll do for 
>>>> now. 
>>>>
>>>> The shipping notification just came through. Hopefully I’ll have it 
>>>> early next week. 
>>>>
>>&

[RBW] Re: saddle angle and lower back pain

[Mackenzy Albright]

I think the idea is that brooks have a bit of a "banana sway" and also a 
bit of where you actually *sit* on the saddle. The further back you sit and 
the wider, the further back on the "banana" so the higher the now. ie vs a 
aggressive geometry drop bar bike you would likely sit closer to center and 
nose down accordingly. I think to a certain extent you're just leveling the 
saddle to the area that best suits the riding position give or take so you 
aren't sliding. 

One thing i've really noticed, I think perhaps what you're getting at, is 
pelvic tilt has a lot to do with your core tension. If you are in an 
upright position and your sitting in such a way that you don't sufficiently 
engage your core, (anterior pelvic tilt) i've noticed the tendency is to 
compensate the pedal *push* by tensing or clenching your back muscles vs 
proper core engagement and leaving you with a sore back. I think upright 
bikes can be much touchier - in my experience it seems the slack saddle 
angle and longer top tube still give you a reach and adjustability to make 
sure you're in a sweet spot that your core is happy. Ive noticed this 
position is much easier to obtain on my clementine than on upright 
converted bikes with steeper geo. 

On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 3:05:37 PM UTC-8 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> I wanted to post a bit about an experience I've had lately to see if 
> anyone else here can relate, or provide some insights into: to preface, I'm 
> a relatively new Riv owner, a longtime cyclist in his late 40's with no 
> previous history of back pain (knock on wood), and someone who has always 
> ridden saddles at a level angle, at or slightly above bar height.
>
> As most of us on here do, I enjoy looking at photos of different setups 
> for all the many different Riv bikes produced over the years. One thing 
> I've noticed about a lot of folks' setup - especially the ones that are 
> more upright, and especially the newer models that are stretched out and 
> upright (Clem, Platy, Gus/Susie, Joe, etc.) - is that many riders tend to 
> tilt their saddles nose-up slightly, and some at rather pronounced angles. 
> I recall reading some posts recently published by Rivendell that 
> essentially recommend positioning the saddle this way on these types of 
> bikes.
>
> So, after getting my Gus built up back in the beginning of October, I took 
> the recommendation to heart, bolstered in part by all the evidence of many, 
> many photos showing owners enjoying their saddles set up this way. I tilted 
> the nose up at an angle that seemed appropriate, set my saddle height, and 
> off I went. It felt ok, but I always felt like I was sliding down the 
> backside of the saddle, and my body did feel like it was trying to get used 
> to the upright position of the bike. Since then, I've been riding my Gus a 
> lot. Many different types of terrain and varying distances. It's a joy to 
> ride of course, and has been extremely comfortable otherwise from the 
> get-go. i love it.
>
> However, something else started coinciding with my time on Gus; a nagging 
> lower back ache that seemed to be at its worse following a ride, and 
> continuing for a day or two afterwards. I recently took 5 days off the bike 
> and experienced no back pain during that time. It was then that I started 
> to wonder if it was all related to the saddle angle. This past week, I 
> started experimenting with setting my saddle up the same way it is on all 
> my other bikes. The only difference with this bike is that the bars are 
> much higher in relation to the saddle on my other bikes. After a couple of 
> days riding with the newly level saddle (including a 30 mi ride yesterday), 
> I'm experiencing no back pain like I was before. Maybe it's too early to 
> count out coincidence, but something tells me it's not.
>
> So this leads me to question the whole upwards tilt thing as it relates to 
> these types of Riv models and how folks ride them. I know everyone is 
> different, and there's always going to be those who prefer upward tilts, 
> downward tilts, extreme fore / aft, etc. but what exactly is it, 
> physiologically speaking, that skews towards the preference for the upward 
> saddle tilt for an upright riding position? I'm certainly no expert on bike 
> fit, but is there a logical justification for it, other than just personal 
> preference? Has anyone else here had a similar experience? I'm going to 
> keep it this way for a while to see if my hunch continues to bear fruit - 
> fingers crossed.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Is a Gus the right choice for me? Would a Platypus be better?

[Mackenzy Albright]

RE those comparing Romanceurs and Rivs 

I loved my (XL disc) Romanceur - but have a bad shoulder / neck. I couldn't 
run drops. It didn't handle that well with upright bars IMO. The short 
wheelbase makes it hop  and wheelie a lot climbing. I love climbing. It 
rode amazing with a shortish stem and towel racks, but was a real neck 
destroyer. Looked great though. Hauled front basket cargo like nobody's 
business. I loved it - but not for me. 

I traded it for a Clementine 59 and (also bought a) Clem Smith JR 64. OG 
clementine feels a tad like the Romanceur a bit with a bit more room in the 
front for swept backs and appropriate chain stays to keep it on the ground. 
Climbs wonderfully. Clem JR just cruises like nobody's business. One of the 
most fun and cruisey bikes ive ever ridden. The more slack head tube makes 
it a bit floppier than the Clementine with a high front load (ie basket or 
porteur bag) Im likely going to keep the Clementine and part with the JR 
only because of slight overlap and lack of space. 

Now that I took the RIV plunge, having a high maintenance body that gets 
pissed off easily, I can't imagine not owning a rivendell for my main ride 
anymore. I dont think you can make a wrong decision. I think it comes down 
to more or less tire size, aesthetics, and availability. Each has their 
slight niche variations, but overall no matter what be amazing. 

On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 3:47:06 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

> Triples are my fave. 
>
> On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 3:14:06 PM UTC-8 jacob...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> It’s the Mermaid color. They only had one in stock so the decision was 
>> pretty easy. 
>>
>> Right now I’ll be going 3x9. I bought a NOS Ritchey triple recently to 
>> put on my Long Haul Trucker but it’ll be going on the Gus. I could see 
>> going 2x9 or 2x10 at some point. White Industries makes some really nice 
>> stuff. 
>>
>> It’s funny because I just bought some Paul Motolite brakes for the 
>> Trucker and now they’ll be pulled for the Gus. Back to the mismatched 
>> v-brakes. 
>>
>> I still need wheels but I found a cheap set on eBay. They’ll do for now. 
>>
>> The shipping notification just came through. Hopefully I’ll have it early 
>> next week. 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 15, 2022, at 5:45 PM, Luke Hendrickson  
>> wrote:
>>
>> Awesome!!! Which color is your Gus, Jacob? Very much looking forward to 
>> seeing it built up. What sorta gearing you have in mind?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 2:41:13 PM UTC-8 jacob...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for all the replies. I ended up going with a Gus. C&L Cycles out 
>>> of Montreal had a frame in stock. I've been eyeing parts for the build all 
>>> day. My parts stash is pretty full so hopefully things will come together 
>>> quickly on the build. Thanks again for the help! 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 11:30:00 AM UTC-5 Mark Schneider wrote:
>>>
 Country roads, sounds like the Platypus would be perfect. The Gus/Susie 
 really is nice for washboard, and rough off-road rides, but rides great on 
 the roads too. I have a large Susie, and I'm running Rene Herse tires, and 
 I'm impressed with the responsiveness. It's very plush! Kind of wish I'd 
 gotten the Gus, just because I've packed on some weight and there's a 
 small 
 drop-off I occasionally find myself going over. 

 On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 7:44:14 AM UTC-8 saxt...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

>
> Thanks I’ll stop hijacking this thread and ask for more advice on a 
> separate one.
> On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 8:38:48 AM UTC-5 Hoch in ut wrote:
>
>> I’m running Albatross currently  it works well but I am looking for 
>> something with a little less rise and sweep. I may have to just bend my 
>> Albatross out a little and call it good. 
>>
>> The bike itself is awesome. Coming from a Clem, which was too heavy 
>> duty for me, this bike feels more springy and lively. Rides fast on the 
>> road and tackles dirt roads and singletrack with ease. 
>>
>> One knock I have is the fork feels a little stiff. I guess for 
>> heavier front loads. But I wish it were a little more compliant. Other 
>> than 
>> that, it’s a great bike. 
>>
>> On Sunday, November 13, 2022 at 3:19:22 PM UTC-7 saxt...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> What bars are you running on the Romanceur?  I was about to start a 
>>> similar thread looking for advice and one of my shortlist choices was 
>>> the 
>>> Romanceur..so curious about your set up. 
>>> On Saturday, November 12, 2022 at 8:32:37 PM UTC-5 Hoch in ut wrote:
>>>
 I’d agree Gus is not the right bike. Neither is a Clem. Riv rates 
 them the same, as far as durability. 

 There’s been some good suggestions already. 

 I’d offer a non-Riv option: Crust Romanceur. Light, lug

Re: [RBW] Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[Mackenzy Albright]

When I was living in Alberta, I had an art studio near a bottle depot. We 
had a lot of houseless folks in the area for that reason. We were pretty 
good pals with some of the regulars and we had some very interesting 
conversations about bike thief's. The main points i remember that i use as 
general rules: 

1. bikes and parts that can be bartered - 26" wheels are hot. old mountain 
bikes. anything with QR. Any seat is in danger. 
2. Convenience - anything that can be swiped or taken off easy. (QR) 
Leaving a bike "for a moment" etc. Leaving a bike in a dark corner street 
late at night. Leaving it alone draws attention. Riding your carbon roadie 
and leaving it outside the shop to grab an espresso - its gone. Parking 
your bike in the same spot every single day makes it easy for more 
organized thief's. 
3. Making it inconvenient means locking well lit high foot traffic zones, 
near spaces where other cyclists lock up (we kinda watch out for suspect 
behavior) coffee shops. bike shops. bars can be OK as there are often 
smokers outside etc. other social sort of spaces. 
4. if somebody really wants it, they'll find a way. 


On Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 4:34:49 PM UTC-8 Jim Bronson wrote:

> I ride my Rivendells for almost everything, but I'm not going to lock them 
> up outside a grocery store or a bar.  Or an outdoor music festival, like 
> Austin City Limits with 75,000 people.  I have my beater for those things.
>
> The Rivs get 99% of all the riding I do.  They get rode hard and put away 
> wet.  Grant needent fret.
>
> Jim
> Austin suburbs, TX
>
> On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 5:15 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Did you read Grant’s Blahg? He covers a lot of ground, but most notable 
>> to me was the Please Don’t Be Precious About Your Rivendell section. In 
>> sum, Grant is saying it saddens him to think of people riding beater bikes 
>> instead of their Rivendells to do daily, monotonous tasks - because those 
>> tasks make up a lot of real life. If one “saves” their Rivendell, it will 
>> not realize its potential, sit mostly unused and then pass to one’s heirs 
>> who will sell it in “near mint” condition on EBay, and how sad. What was 
>> the bike for?
>>
>> I have found myself both guilty and innocent on the matter. My #1 
>> favorite bike is my raspberry Platypus. I ride it all the time, because I 
>> bought it to ride it, but I also dread any harm coming to it, and I do 
>> guard it from that. I got a second Platypus that I dedicated to shopping 
>> and traveling with and promised not to be precious about it. But now and 
>> then I still am tempted to backslide. When traveling to the Philly Bike 
>> Expo I dithered about which bike to bring. I didn’t want my raspberry Platy 
>> damaged while locked up at racks and I feared it being stolen. Roberta 
>> said, “I don’t think you have a choice, Leah. That’s the bike people will 
>> expect you to bring.” And she was right, and I did. 
>>
>> Then, there is Pam. Pam is at the other far end of the spectrum. Her bike 
>> is a model of beausage. Innumerable paint chips and little spots of rust 
>> cover her tiny Betty frame. Her Backabike bags are full of holes and the 
>> elastic closures are worn out. She locks it up and never worries about it. 
>> She did not obsessively stare out the restaurant window to see if it was 
>> still locked to the rack while we were at dinner (like yours truly). But 
>> she loves her bike, has real affection for it. She looked at me, eyes 
>> shining, and said exactly that. Ana, PurpleRiv, is another good example to 
>> us. She adores her bike, but has not spared it from hard work. Her bike has 
>> hauled obscene loads and taken her everywhere. I remember there was that 
>> one fateful camping trip for she 1. Posed it for a photo, only to have it 
>> topple and slide down the face of a boulder next to it. I believe she said 
>> she sat there and wept for 2 hours over her Joe Bell paint. And who among 
>> us would not do the same? 2. Same trip, another photo op, and the bike fell 
>> off a cliff. 
>>
>> So, who truly loves their Rivendell? The one who lavishes it with care 
>> and protection? Or the one who pulls it out of the garage and into all of 
>> life - the mundane and the adventurous? 
>>
>> On one end of the spectrum we have those who will only take a Rivendell 
>> out for special occasions so as not to spoil it, and on the other…well, we 
>> have Pam and Ana, who will give it a good thrashing. (Oh, don’t take it 
>> personally, friends, I’m being funny about both types of owners.)
>>
>> I find myself wanting to be precious but fighting it and succeeding 
>> *most* of the time. I’m lucky that the raspberry paint hides beausage and 
>> dirt, so it looks pretty new. But a dent in the top tube or a large chip in 
>> the paint would really hurt my feelings. Heaven help me. 
>>
>> Where are you on the spectrum? What words of wisdom might you have? What 
>> strategies do you employ? Do y

Re: [RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[Mackenzy Albright]

after riding a lot of bikes in a lot of terrible conditions i've come to 
find for the most part a semi well maintained bike is pretty robust and not 
so worried anymore. 

the two things that DO worry me is 

1. bike theft. Having a bike you can lock up. Ideally the workplace has 
secure bike parking and if I park for less than a few hours neighborhood 
pending. I no longer bar hop and in general pretty careful about where to 
park for short periods. Knock on wood aside from a few stolen bits and bobs 
off my bikes never had any real major theft. 

2. SALT. Previously living in Alberta, they put some sort of demonic liquid 
ice melt on the paths. I used the 45north Kavas on my winter bike and they 
were great in all conditions and especially on ice and hardpack snow. The 
ice melt would melt through snow and ice making some sort of corrosive 
slurry that felt like riding on wet sand at a beach. The ice slurry ate 
through an imperfect powder-coat on my SSFGmtb "winter bike". By spring it 
was bubbling and flaking terribly and lead to a lot of rust that I have yet 
to deal with since moving other than a good scrub and light oiling. It's 
fine as "beausage" on my Marino winter bike - but would have been pretty 
choked if it were a Riv or Crust 4x the cost and meant as a "lifer".  If 
they just left the packed snow it'd been fine and i'd ride any bike in the 
snow with studded tires. 

I feel quite guilty if i'm not using most of my bikes regularly. 

On Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 11:23:49 AM UTC-8 penne...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks, Jim. I’m running studs in the front (Schwalbe Marathon 29x2.0), 
> but not in the back. On days like today, studs on both ends would be 
> better, but where I live we are prone to warm (and fierce) chinook winds, 
> which means that the roads will be clearish for a big chunk of the winter, 
> so I compromise. There is a 90+% chance that I’ll lose rear traction and 
> fall a time or two this winter, but I’ll be wearing lots of clothes so it 
> won’t hurt too bad! If I had the clearance you’ve got on a Clem, I might 
> even run something bigger and spikier (?) like the Schwalbe Ice Spiker, 
> which I think comes in 29x2.25. Along with Schwalbe, 45NRTH seems to be the 
> other good option for studs. They have a tire called the Kahva that is also 
> 29x2.25. 
>
> Mack
> (apologies to the thread if this message appears twice, I'm having email 
> problems)
>
> On Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 11:55:07 AM UTC-7 Jim Whorton wrote:
>
>> Mack, I like that setup on your Joe a lot.  Cool!  Are those 2-inchers 
>> studded?  
>>
>> I use studded tires in winter (Continental Spike Claw 26 x 2.1") that I 
>> got cheap through Craigslist.  I have thought of getting a set of studded 
>> tires for my Clem, but would need 700c and haven't begun to sort that out.  
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 8, 2022 at 1:39 PM Mack Penner  wrote:
>>
>>> Grant's blahg was a bit of a kick in the pants for me. Here is a photo 
>>> of my just-winterized Joe in a snowbank on my commute this morning. This 
>>> commute would have previously been earmarked for my "beater," which I've 
>>> decided to give to my brother, so he can squirm through the snow on 30mm 
>>> studded tires while I plow (and sometimes squirm), on 2-inchers. 
>>> Coping in -20 degrees on the prairies,
>>> Mack 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 6, 2022 at 7:35:19 PM UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>
 Your two examples, Pam and Ana, are by no coincidence also my two 
 biggest role models when it comes to using the heck out of one's beautiful 
 bike. I try to channel them all the time, and in fact, I recently sold the 
 Charlie because I was finally able to fully accept that its existence in 
 my 
 quiver was to be a "lockable" alternative to the Hillborne - and I should 
 just ride the Hillborne [but be smart about it]. The Hillborne is closing 
 on 8000km and the Bombadil nearing 5000km which is nothing compared to 
 Pam's numbers, but I'm proud of the mileage nonetheless - and optimistic 
 that this is just the beginning.  

 I spent a somewhat embarassing amount of money on the Bombadil's 
 repaint, but generally haven't been too fussed about the scratches I've 
 put 
 into that paint - with one exception: it fell over once and the Paul brake 
 lever put a sizeable gouge in the top tube's paint.  It looks horrible 
 because it doesn't look like a scratch from riding, it looks like a 
 scratch 
 from poor care. So if you ever wonder why I put a "BIKE" sticker in such 
 an 
 odd spot on my bike... it's to cover that scratch (photo from today's cold 
 and wet ride) 



 On Sunday, 6 November 2022 at 18:04:25 UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Since this is the my first time owning a Rivendell bicycle; a Clem Jr. 
> "L", I have grown to appreciate it more and more when I ride it. 
> Purchased 
> it mid-September of this year. I am relieved and happy a

Re: [RBW] Re: Shimano Altus low range question

[Mackenzy Albright]

I switched wheelsets and forgot to switch out my 11-42 cassette and 
accidentally friction shifted my altus to 38-42 and it didn't explode. I 
think it has much more range than spec'd. I otherwise use 38/24 double with 
a 11-36 cassette normally. 

On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 2:01:39 PM UTC-7 John Bokman wrote:

> Thanks for the real world recommendation Dave!
>
> On Nov 1, 2022, at 1:59 PM, DavidP  wrote:
>
> In my experience you can usually expect to go a bit above stated max cog. 
> While the RD-M310 is rated to 34t, I would give it a go with a 36t.
> I have a bike with a Deore M531 (rated to 34t) shifting a 9 speed 40t.
> That said hangers can vary and if you find it's not quite there then a 
> short hanger extension (road link or similar) will get you there.
>
> -Dave
>
>
> On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 4:34:41 PM UTC-4 J Imler wrote:
>
>> I don't think you'll have any problem, especially if you use a Wolftooth 
>> Roadlink . May 
>> not even be necessary though. I think I got a 42t low gear using said 
>> setup, but that was an 8 speed.
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 1:23:29 PM UTC-7 John Bokman wrote:
>>
>>> HI Rivsters.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if anyone has successfully shifted a 12-36 shimano 9-speed 
>>> cassette with an Altus RD?
>>>
>>> I currently have an altus, and like it well enough, but am using a 
>>> 44x30, 11-32 8 speed.
>>>
>>> The new setup would be a triple up front (48-34-24), and a 12-36. 
>>>
>>> According to Shimano, the Altus only shifts up to a 34 cog.
>>>
>>> Just wondering if any of you Rivsters have been able to shift lower than 
>>> that?
>>>
>>> I can hunt for another derailer if need be, but would much rather not. I 
>>> don't like the looks of the one Riv sells (Shimano Deore 592) because it 
>>> doesn't have the barrel adjuster. I guess  could potentially go to the 
>>> Alvio, or the used market. I actually have a Deore something or other which 
>>> does shift to 36, but it's R Rise, and I have never gotten used to the 
>>> reverse movement. Drives me mad!
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> John
>>> Portland OR
>>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Canti-lever alternatives

[Mackenzy Albright]

I found a NOS set of AVID SL's and they're incredible. Not "silver" but 
at-least not black. I forgot how good Avid SD7 and SL's are. 

On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 12:20:29 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> The problem with Paul levers is they make everything else feel 
> not-so-great. I have Pauls (long pull) on my Riv Custom and every time I 
> hop on my Bike Friday with Avid levers... atrocious! 
>
> On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 9:56:49 AM UTC-7 jmlmu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I have the Paul’s on my Sam and while they were pricey and I kicked 
>> myself for spending that much on levers, they are definitely “forever” 
>> levers. They have a feel to them that no other lever I’ve tried can match. 
>> Those in combination with Mini-Motos and the brakes are almost “too” good. 
>> I had to loosen the cables so I don’t instantly lock up my wheels. They are 
>> hands down my favorite levers. Seems like there’s a pun in there somewhere. 
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> On Nov 1, 2022, at 9:39 AM, Collin A  wrote:
>>
>> Sorry folks, just to clarify I have a pair of the Tektro levers that I 
>> am looking to offhaul, not the Pauls sadly!
>>
>>
>> Collin, vaguely speaking, in Sacramento
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 8:36:23 AM UTC-7 Collin A wrote:
>>
>>> And I have a used pair collecting dust that I'm looking to offhaul :)
>>>
>>> I wouldn't say they are the same quality, though, and you'll be hard to 
>>> find something of the same quality, but cheaper (except for the IRD levers 
>>> that soma sells, but those are still $100+). Part of the reason the Pauls 
>>> are so nice is because they have bearings instead of pivots, that alone is 
>>> hard to find.
>>>
>>> Collin
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 8:30:37 AM UTC-7 thetaper...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 For the price, I'm a fan of the Tektro FL750 levers 
 . Quite comfortable and 
 stylish IMO.

 On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 11:22:12 AM UTC-4 BobW wrote:

> I'm planning to reconfigure my Sam Hillborne from drop bars to 
> upright/flat/sweptback bars; so am looking for short pull brake lever 
> options.  I love the Paul Canti Levers, but they are a bit pricey.  
> Looking 
> for "affordable" suggestions for silver levers of similar quality to the 
> Pauls.  Thanks!

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>>
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Re: [RBW] Perfect tires for Clem?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Im running freebies on my clem at the moment, but I think my fantasy setup 
would be fleecer ridge front and antelope hill rear. I like knobby fronts 
and smooth rear. Good compromise for rolling resistance, buzz, and trail 
versatility.  

On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 10:34:56 AM UTC-7 DavidP wrote:

> I'm thinking of a similar setup for my upcoming 700c Platy build but with 
> a 50mm rear (with tread similar to your Gravel King SS) and 55mm Fleecer 
> Ridge up front. 
>
> A Rose \ Mars combo would certainly be a step towards a more trail 
> oriented setup. I've yet to find any written impressions of the Mars on 
> pavement. The Mars remind me of Continental Race Kings, which I recently 
> put front and rear on a bike and find decent enough on pavement but seem a 
> bit noisier than the RH Juniper Ridge I have on the front of another bike. 
> I'm happy with the Race Kings for mixed use and the Mars was on my short 
> list for the Platypus - they just lean a bit more to the dirt/trail end of 
> the spectrum, which may be perfect for your Clem.
>
> I was waffling on trying to squeeze a pair of 2.25" Schwalbe Hurricanes on 
> the Platypus - that one may work well on the Clem. It's wire bead but a 
> decent weight; and I've seen several reports that it is silent on pavement. 
> It should handle rougher terrain better than smaller tires and possibly 
> have some cornering stability due to the side knobs. Still probably not a 
> tire for hard corners on or off road. Definitely the other end of the 
> spectrum in terms of tire technology/features/price from RH.
>
> Honestly, I don't think any of us expect a multi-surface tire to rail down 
> trails so it's matter of choosing degrees.
>
> - Dave
>
> On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 10:35:51 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> [image: image0.jpeg][image: image1.jpeg][image: image2.jpeg]
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 1, 2022, at 10:33 AM, Richard Rose  wrote:
>>
>> The impossible question, right? And when I read Riv's intro to their 
>> website tire offerings "we are not tire snobs" I almost feel guilty 
>> obsessing over such things. "Just ride", right? I want the "do it all" set 
>> of tires (aren't we all?). I have been quite happy with the Gravelking SS 
>> 650 x 48 tires for all road / gravel and mild trail conditions. On a single 
>> foray onto a truer singletrack they fell short in loose conditions and 
>> sandy corners. So after exhaustive research I am considering a 
>> Ultradynamica combo, Mars front / Rose' rear. Other contender  is Soma 
>> Cazadero. Naturally RH Untanum are a consideration but lack of side knobs 
>> are a concern. I had Fleecer Ridge tires on my Jones 29 and did not think 
>> the noise cancellation thing lived up to the hype - they were rather noisy 
>> on pavement especially compared to the Gravelkings. Speaking of the 
>> Gravelking, check out these pics. I was on a ride recently and felt a 
>> "lump" in the rear tire on pavement. It disappeared when the ride turned to 
>> dirt but was there again when I returned to pavement. when I got home all I 
>> could discern was a slightly raised football shaped bulge and it was worn 
>> smooth. Upon removal I was stunned by the amount of structural damage and 
>> the fact that I did not flat. I wonder if something like this qualifies as 
>> a defect? I will add the pics in a comment momentarily... 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Imitation Sinew for alternative wrapping string option

[Mackenzy Albright]

it's made of polyester, nylon, and or polypropylene? I'm hoping that it 
won't deteriorate too quick. I think the main advantage is the strand is 
flat so it binds well when wrapped and is meltable for tying off. It does 
smell nice, but not fresh beeswax nice. Waxing your own twine is smart! 

On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 6:45:20 PM UTC-7 J wrote:

> Looks pretty good! I wonder it's made of? It looks very similar to the 
> hemp twine I use after I've ran it through beeswax before tying with it. 
> Does it smell as good though?
>
> On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 4:05:44 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>
>> [image: PXL_20221024_200728518.jpg]
>>
>> On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 1:05:25 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>>
>>> Two summers ago I was helping my partner with an art install. We needed 
>>> a strong string to hang a bunch of heavy drawings and we found imitation 
>>> sinew at the local leather shop. 
>>>
>>> https://www.halfordsmailorder.com/sinew-strong 
>>>
>>> it can be found other places as well. Leather shops. amazon etc. 
>>>
>>> It comes in various colors and wraps very nicely. It is not a "natural 
>>> fiber" but because it is waxed it is very strong and the knots / tucks 
>>> secure very very well. I used it initially to cover a nice "carry bar wrap" 
>>> on the top tube (ala jason fullers proto velo inpiration) which has some 
>>> chippout and a bad attempt at painting / finger nail polish sealing. I 
>>> liked how it wrapped so well I used it to secure my wiring on my newly 
>>> installed dynamo tail light (inspired by bicycle belle) I still used zip 
>>> ties in higher risk zones for added security, but it has a really nice 
>>> look. 
>>>
>>> Id definitely suggest as a nice looking option for anyone looking for a 
>>> sturdy string easy to work with string. 
>>>
>>> [image: PXL_20221023_185442280.MP.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>>

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