[RBW] Re: Very cool bottle dynamo, CNC machined in Germany

2015-01-02 Thread Mike Shaljian
Well, after talking with Jeff Jones, it seems like the Schmidt SON 28 135mm 
hub would actually work, since it has a through axle. I will need to talk 
with Peter White and make sure that this should actually work, I guess. i'm 
always tempted to go the route of dynamo hub if I'm going to be spending 
lots of money anyway, because they're the utmost for reliability in any 
weather. The reason I wouldn't want just a battery powered light is because 
multiple day touring in the backcountry is part of my plan for this bike, 
and I'd rather be able to easily charge my phone and have a constant light 
source. 

On Friday, January 2, 2015 9:33:40 PM UTC-8, Ryan Christbaum wrote:

 I'd love to do a full-on lighting system, but man, for $50 you can get a 
 completely reliable, light weight and very bright light.  Admittedly, I 
 hate remembering to charge, but for another $50 I have a backup in case.  
 That and a Planet Bike flasher w/ Enloop rechargeables (with a second set 
 on hand) have been totally reliable and very satisfactory for me.  Not as 
 neat as the high-tech stuff, but...


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[RBW] Re: Very cool bottle dynamo, CNC machined in Germany

2015-01-01 Thread Mike Shaljian
Oh, I didn't realize the BM was a good, functional little bottle dynamo. 
It makes sense now that the light would be underpowered, since the 
Velogical puts out 1.5W and the headlight takes 2.3. I think I may start 
with just using something like a Cygolite Trion 1300 on the Jones and then 
if I want dynamo power, I could run an E-Werk as the battery charger for 
that. I'd like to have a bonafide daytime running light, but it seems like 
the best strategy with a bottle dynamo would be to just go for recharging a 
battery pack. $60 as opposed to $160 is certainly attractive though!

On Thursday, January 1, 2015 7:08:42 AM UTC-8, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:

 I have seen LED lights sec'd as low as 1 W, and it may be that the new 
 StVZO standard anticipates these.  Shimano, FWIW, also manufactures 
 dynohubs that put out power in the 1.5W range.  I did have the impression 
 that the Edelux (I used an Edelux and Pixeo as a test bed) was slightly 
 underpowered by the Velogical.

 I don't know whether you'd need a brake track to run this; the O-ring is 
 pretty grippy.  The nice thing about the brake track is that if it get 
 super wet, you can clear it with a touch of the brakes.  Again, just in 
 case it needs to be repeated, this is designed to run on the RIM, not the 
 TIRE.  But the BM dynamo can also run on the rim.

 It's a very light, elegant solution.  But it's very costly, and I think 
 that the BM dynamo (for example) would likely do a fine job in its place.

 As for powering something like a USB charger in addition to a headlight, 
 it can do that.  I didn't test it for great periods of time, but my phone 
 (a Lumia) did show that it was charging.

 If anyone has any questions they want addressed on the Velogical, I'll try 
 to answer them from my experience.

 On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 6:42:57 PM UTC-5, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 I was talking with Jeff Jones about lighting options with his 29+ bikes 
 (which can't run a disk SON hub because of 142mm spacing) and he said that 
 one of his customers had good results with this fancy model: 
 http://www.velogical-engineering.com/rim-dynamo-en

 I'm considering it for the 29+ I want to build, I could power a headlight 
 alone up front and also a BM E-werk for charging batteries. Seems like a 
 good solution to the one drawback of the 29+ model (no dynohub). I'm also 
 wondering if some battery-powered lights (Cygolite, Light  Motion) have 
 advanced to the point of being tolerable to use now in terms of 
 reliability. 



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[RBW] Re: Very cool bottle dynamo, CNC machined in Germany

2015-01-01 Thread Mike Shaljian
So if yo had to pick one bottle dynamo, would it be the Velogical?

The (seemingly) lower power output is a little offputting to me, but I 
really think I will want to use it as a battery recharger rather than on a 
constant dynamo. It certainly has a nicer form factor than the BM!

On Thursday, January 1, 2015 2:02:17 PM UTC-8, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:

 Here's my take on the BM (Dymotec) unit:


 http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/08/09/the-shocking-truth-part-5-bottle-generators/

 If you want to read the whole series (heh) start here:

 http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/07/20/the-shocking-truth/


 On Thursday, January 1, 2015 1:57:50 PM UTC-5, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 Oh, I didn't realize the BM was a good, functional little bottle dynamo. 
 It makes sense now that the light would be underpowered, since the 
 Velogical puts out 1.5W and the headlight takes 2.3. I think I may start 
 with just using something like a Cygolite Trion 1300 on the Jones and then 
 if I want dynamo power, I could run an E-Werk as the battery charger for 
 that. I'd like to have a bonafide daytime running light, but it seems like 
 the best strategy with a bottle dynamo would be to just go for recharging a 
 battery pack. $60 as opposed to $160 is certainly attractive though!

 On Thursday, January 1, 2015 7:08:42 AM UTC-8, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
 wrote:

 I have seen LED lights sec'd as low as 1 W, and it may be that the new 
 StVZO standard anticipates these.  Shimano, FWIW, also manufactures 
 dynohubs that put out power in the 1.5W range.  I did have the impression 
 that the Edelux (I used an Edelux and Pixeo as a test bed) was slightly 
 underpowered by the Velogical.

 I don't know whether you'd need a brake track to run this; the O-ring is 
 pretty grippy.  The nice thing about the brake track is that if it get 
 super wet, you can clear it with a touch of the brakes.  Again, just in 
 case it needs to be repeated, this is designed to run on the RIM, not the 
 TIRE.  But the BM dynamo can also run on the rim.

 It's a very light, elegant solution.  But it's very costly, and I think 
 that the BM dynamo (for example) would likely do a fine job in its place.

 As for powering something like a USB charger in addition to a headlight, 
 it can do that.  I didn't test it for great periods of time, but my phone 
 (a Lumia) did show that it was charging.

 If anyone has any questions they want addressed on the Velogical, I'll 
 try to answer them from my experience.

 On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 6:42:57 PM UTC-5, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 I was talking with Jeff Jones about lighting options with his 29+ bikes 
 (which can't run a disk SON hub because of 142mm spacing) and he said that 
 one of his customers had good results with this fancy model: 
 http://www.velogical-engineering.com/rim-dynamo-en

 I'm considering it for the 29+ I want to build, I could power a 
 headlight alone up front and also a BM E-werk for charging batteries. 
 Seems like a good solution to the one drawback of the 29+ model (no 
 dynohub). I'm also wondering if some battery-powered lights (Cygolite, 
 Light  Motion) have advanced to the point of being tolerable to use now 
 in 
 terms of reliability. 



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[RBW] Very cool bottle dynamo, CNC machined in Germany

2014-12-31 Thread Mike Shaljian
I was talking with Jeff Jones about lighting options with his 29+ bikes 
(which can't run a disk SON hub because of 142mm spacing) and he said that 
one of his customers had good results with this fancy model: 
http://www.velogical-engineering.com/rim-dynamo-en

I'm considering it for the 29+ I want to build, I could power a headlight 
alone up front and also a BM E-werk for charging batteries. Seems like a 
good solution to the one drawback of the 29+ model (no dynohub). I'm also 
wondering if some battery-powered lights (Cygolite, Light  Motion) have 
advanced to the point of being tolerable to use now in terms of 
reliability. 

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[RBW] Re: Very cool bottle dynamo, CNC machined in Germany

2014-12-31 Thread Mike Shaljian
Very nice writeup and glad to know you think it is very capable! It seems 
with the favorable exchange rate a new unit would be about $160-$170 
shipped. The price of a Jones front hub ($140) plus this is still equal to 
or less than the cost of a SON wide body i recently bought, and it's a 
wider  stronger front wheel!

With having both a dynamo headlight and an E-Werk, this seems like a really 
great solution. 

On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 5:22:38 PM UTC-8, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:

 I have a Velogical unit, and wrote of my experiences with it here as part 
 of a series on bicycle generators:


 http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/08/26/something-old-is-new-again-the-velogical-rim-dynamo/

 Overall, I'm pretty impressed.  HOWEVER, be aware that the Velogical does 
 not supply a full 3 Watt output, and that you *will* notice that your 
 Edelux (or other) 3W light isn't quite as bright.  

 It's a nice unit, and perfect for bikes that can't deal with a dynohub.  
 However, it's not quite perfect, and it *is* expensive.

 On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 6:50:26 PM UTC-5, Mattt wrote:

 This is neato.  Gotta love those Germans.  Hope this works well.  I would 
 try it out.



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[RBW] Re: Very cool bottle dynamo, CNC machined in Germany

2014-12-31 Thread Mike Shaljian
Also, as I understand it, standard LED headlights draw 2.4W of power while 
the taillight draws 0.6W. If i just run an Edelux up front, shouldn't it 
run that at full power? I'd like to know if the dynamo lighting is actually 
decent because I prefer to have a daytime running light. It seems like the 
dynamo should provide enough juice for a headlight, but one of Jeff's 
custom customers who found this said his light seemed underpowered, I'm 
pretty sure. Could also just power a USB battery recharge for something 
like a cygolite trion, but I think a dynamo headlight would be ideal. 

On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 5:22:38 PM UTC-8, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:

 I have a Velogical unit, and wrote of my experiences with it here as part 
 of a series on bicycle generators:


 http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/08/26/something-old-is-new-again-the-velogical-rim-dynamo/

 Overall, I'm pretty impressed.  HOWEVER, be aware that the Velogical does 
 not supply a full 3 Watt output, and that you *will* notice that your 
 Edelux (or other) 3W light isn't quite as bright.  

 It's a nice unit, and perfect for bikes that can't deal with a dynohub.  
 However, it's not quite perfect, and it *is* expensive.

 On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 6:50:26 PM UTC-5, Mattt wrote:

 This is neato.  Gotta love those Germans.  Hope this works well.  I would 
 try it out.



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Re: [RBW] Very cool bottle dynamo, CNC machined in Germany

2014-12-31 Thread Mike Shaljian
 Jim,

Why would I need rim brake-specific rims? I don't think a dynamo strip or 
specific sidewall is needed to run this? Am I missing something obvious?

- Mike 

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne, Oregon Outback, Off-roading and the ?: 2 bikes or 2 sets of wheels?

2014-12-30 Thread Mike Shaljian
Call it heresy if you wish, but I think the Ultimate gravel and bikepacking 
bike may have actually arrived: 
http://www.jonesbikes.com/jones-plus-xt-bb7-build-complete-bicycle-pre-order/

I talk to Jeff for two hours about my riding, preferences and wishes for an 
all-terrain, all-use bike and this really seems like the best possible 
option. I'm thinking this fits all of the requirements that Jan Heine 
talked about in the Oregon Outback article from BQ. And fortunately, it is 
sized to fit giant people with 86cm PBH's. It really may be a bike with no 
compromises. 

On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 12:15:24 PM UTC-8, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 Thanks for the insight, John. It seems that 45mm-max is the verdict for a 
 Sam H. 

 If I wanted the ideal Rivendell for the O.O, it does seem like the 
 Hunqapillar would be the bike, riding a 55mm touring tire like the Schwalbe 
 Almotion. I am considering a used 62cm Hunqapillar as a possibility right 
 now. It seems that my dream of having just one bike to truly do it all 
 would lead to more compromises than I want. Having an always fendered, 
 go-fastish Sam H. with 38mm Barlow Pass tires and a more beefy Hunqapillar 
 with studs/fenders in the winter and 50+mm tires in the dry 7 months of the 
 year here seems like a nice approach, but I'm still considering all of the 
 possibilities. 

 On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 7:36:21 AM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:

 Don't know if it is too late to post on this thread or not but this is a 
 topic I've had very recent experience with.  I'm currently riding Schwalbe 
 Mondial 40's with fenders on my new to me 56 Hillborne (the one with 
 cantis).  I'm sure it would easily take 45's if I take off the fenders.  I 
 seriously doubt I'd get 50's on there.  It would be tight.  The geometry 
 charts for the 56 SH stated 45 as the max size.  I think that might be a 
 good call.  The one thing I was surprised to find out was how much rim 
 width mattered.  My rims are 24mm wide and all the Schwalbes measure almost 
 actual size (Mondial 40 = 39.7 with calipers).  When I rode a Surly Cross 
 Check with Schwalbe Marathon 42's, the rims were 20mm and the tires 
 measured 38 or 39mm with calipers.  If I were to buy again, I'd be tempted 
 to buy to sets of tires.  45 knobbies to run without fenders and 35 
 Supremes to run with for road adventures.  I may get a second set of wheels 
 in the future to have the easier swapping capability.  If I can figure out 
 a quick release for the SKS fenders, I'd be all set (If anyone has a 
 solution, please pass it on).  In the meantime, I'm hanging on to my SOMA 
 Groove and looking to put even fatter tires on that.  

 John


 On Sunday, November 16, 2014 2:33:17 PM UTC-8, Mike S wrote:

 So I currently have my Sam Hillborne as my only bike, though I was 
 considering adding a front suspension/disc-brake mountain bike to the 
 stable. There's a deal for a Jamis 650B dragon pro on the interwebs now for 
 $1400, but I'm thinking I could rather add a second set of very nice wheels 
 with fatter tires instead. My main reason to do this is so that first of 
 all, I can have a set of slicks and a set of studded tires in the winter, 
 as I live in a very icy/snowy area and am bummed out by having just studded 
 tank tires to ride in winter. Beyond that, I want to have a set of wheels 
 with a 55mm-ish tire that can handle most gravel/firetrail/light 
 singletrack in a ride like the Oregon Outback, as I am hoping to actually 
 do that ride this summer. It would also just be nice to have this set of 
 wheels that can handle more aggressive off-road riding to go explore 
 different areas where I'm at (Eastern Washington). 

 So, I guess the question I pose to the group is: better to have a 
 second, cheap-ish mountain bike or a second set of really nice wheels to 
 maximize the All-Rounderness of a Hillborne? I've been thinking also about 
 Jan Heine's opinion that a rigid all-road bike with fat tires is the 
 Porsche 911 of a gravel-orientated ride, and I want to stick with that 
 plan. Also, what are some ideas about the best tire model to do this kind 
 of riding? I think that 50-54mm with a moderately aggressive tread would be 
 perfect, but I'm wondering if there is something better than the Smart Sam? 



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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne, Oregon Outback, Off-roading and the ?: 2 bikes or 2 sets of wheels?

2014-12-30 Thread Mike Shaljian
***96cm PBH

And this model is sized at 63.5cm seat tube, very close to my 64cm Sam H. 

On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 7:06:34 PM UTC-8, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 Call it heresy if you wish, but I think the Ultimate gravel and 
 bikepacking bike may have actually arrived: 
 http://www.jonesbikes.com/jones-plus-xt-bb7-build-complete-bicycle-pre-order/

 I talk to Jeff for two hours about my riding, preferences and wishes for 
 an all-terrain, all-use bike and this really seems like the best possible 
 option. I'm thinking this fits all of the requirements that Jan Heine 
 talked about in the Oregon Outback article from BQ. And fortunately, it is 
 sized to fit giant people with 86cm PBH's. It really may be a bike with no 
 compromises. 

 On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 12:15:24 PM UTC-8, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 Thanks for the insight, John. It seems that 45mm-max is the verdict for a 
 Sam H. 

 If I wanted the ideal Rivendell for the O.O, it does seem like the 
 Hunqapillar would be the bike, riding a 55mm touring tire like the Schwalbe 
 Almotion. I am considering a used 62cm Hunqapillar as a possibility right 
 now. It seems that my dream of having just one bike to truly do it all 
 would lead to more compromises than I want. Having an always fendered, 
 go-fastish Sam H. with 38mm Barlow Pass tires and a more beefy Hunqapillar 
 with studs/fenders in the winter and 50+mm tires in the dry 7 months of the 
 year here seems like a nice approach, but I'm still considering all of the 
 possibilities. 

 On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 7:36:21 AM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:

 Don't know if it is too late to post on this thread or not but this is a 
 topic I've had very recent experience with.  I'm currently riding Schwalbe 
 Mondial 40's with fenders on my new to me 56 Hillborne (the one with 
 cantis).  I'm sure it would easily take 45's if I take off the fenders.  I 
 seriously doubt I'd get 50's on there.  It would be tight.  The geometry 
 charts for the 56 SH stated 45 as the max size.  I think that might be a 
 good call.  The one thing I was surprised to find out was how much rim 
 width mattered.  My rims are 24mm wide and all the Schwalbes measure almost 
 actual size (Mondial 40 = 39.7 with calipers).  When I rode a Surly Cross 
 Check with Schwalbe Marathon 42's, the rims were 20mm and the tires 
 measured 38 or 39mm with calipers.  If I were to buy again, I'd be tempted 
 to buy to sets of tires.  45 knobbies to run without fenders and 35 
 Supremes to run with for road adventures.  I may get a second set of wheels 
 in the future to have the easier swapping capability.  If I can figure out 
 a quick release for the SKS fenders, I'd be all set (If anyone has a 
 solution, please pass it on).  In the meantime, I'm hanging on to my SOMA 
 Groove and looking to put even fatter tires on that.  

 John


 On Sunday, November 16, 2014 2:33:17 PM UTC-8, Mike S wrote:

 So I currently have my Sam Hillborne as my only bike, though I was 
 considering adding a front suspension/disc-brake mountain bike to the 
 stable. There's a deal for a Jamis 650B dragon pro on the interwebs now 
 for 
 $1400, but I'm thinking I could rather add a second set of very nice 
 wheels 
 with fatter tires instead. My main reason to do this is so that first of 
 all, I can have a set of slicks and a set of studded tires in the winter, 
 as I live in a very icy/snowy area and am bummed out by having just 
 studded 
 tank tires to ride in winter. Beyond that, I want to have a set of wheels 
 with a 55mm-ish tire that can handle most gravel/firetrail/light 
 singletrack in a ride like the Oregon Outback, as I am hoping to actually 
 do that ride this summer. It would also just be nice to have this set of 
 wheels that can handle more aggressive off-road riding to go explore 
 different areas where I'm at (Eastern Washington). 

 So, I guess the question I pose to the group is: better to have a 
 second, cheap-ish mountain bike or a second set of really nice wheels to 
 maximize the All-Rounderness of a Hillborne? I've been thinking also about 
 Jan Heine's opinion that a rigid all-road bike with fat tires is the 
 Porsche 911 of a gravel-orientated ride, and I want to stick with that 
 plan. Also, what are some ideas about the best tire model to do this kind 
 of riding? I think that 50-54mm with a moderately aggressive tread would 
 be 
 perfect, but I'm wondering if there is something better than the Smart 
 Sam? 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne, Oregon Outback, Off-roading and the ?: 2 bikes or 2 sets of wheels?

2014-12-30 Thread Mike Shaljian
Oh and these are the tires I would be basing the bike on:

1) Schwalbe Super Moto 622-60 
2) Schwalbe Marathon Winter 622-50
3) Surly Knard 3

So gravel-grinding tours and general use, ice and snow, and mountain trails 
ready. Probably would have two wheelsets, with one go-fast and either ice 
or trail on the other. The ultimate Swiss-Army knife of a bike. Go fast, 
haul stuff, go off-road, go camping, whatever you want. Yes please!

On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 7:57:27 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hmmm, I'm guessing there's enough clearance on the regular diamond 29er to 
 make it into a B+ bike: 
 http://www.jonesbikes.com/steel-diamond-unicrown-bicycle/

 On Tue, Dec 30, 2014 at 7:08 PM, Mike Shaljian mikesh...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 ***96cm PBH

 And this model is sized at 63.5cm seat tube, very close to my 64cm Sam H. 

 On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 7:06:34 PM UTC-8, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 Call it heresy if you wish, but I think the Ultimate gravel and 
 bikepacking bike may have actually arrived: http://www.jonesbikes.com/
 jones-plus-xt-bb7-build-complete-bicycle-pre-order/

 I talk to Jeff for two hours about my riding, preferences and wishes for 
 an all-terrain, all-use bike and this really seems like the best possible 
 option. I'm thinking this fits all of the requirements that Jan Heine 
 talked about in the Oregon Outback article from BQ. And fortunately, it is 
 sized to fit giant people with 86cm PBH's. It really may be a bike with no 
 compromises. 

 On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 12:15:24 PM UTC-8, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 Thanks for the insight, John. It seems that 45mm-max is the verdict for 
 a Sam H. 

 If I wanted the ideal Rivendell for the O.O, it does seem like the 
 Hunqapillar would be the bike, riding a 55mm touring tire like the 
 Schwalbe 
 Almotion. I am considering a used 62cm Hunqapillar as a possibility right 
 now. It seems that my dream of having just one bike to truly do it all 
 would lead to more compromises than I want. Having an always fendered, 
 go-fastish Sam H. with 38mm Barlow Pass tires and a more beefy Hunqapillar 
 with studs/fenders in the winter and 50+mm tires in the dry 7 months of 
 the 
 year here seems like a nice approach, but I'm still considering all of the 
 possibilities. 

 On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 7:36:21 AM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:

 Don't know if it is too late to post on this thread or not but this is 
 a topic I've had very recent experience with.  I'm currently riding 
 Schwalbe Mondial 40's with fenders on my new to me 56 Hillborne (the one 
 with cantis).  I'm sure it would easily take 45's if I take off the 
 fenders.  I seriously doubt I'd get 50's on there.  It would be tight.  
 The 
 geometry charts for the 56 SH stated 45 as the max size.  I think that 
 might be a good call.  The one thing I was surprised to find out was how 
 much rim width mattered.  My rims are 24mm wide and all the Schwalbes 
 measure almost actual size (Mondial 40 = 39.7 with calipers).  When I 
 rode 
 a Surly Cross Check with Schwalbe Marathon 42's, the rims were 20mm and 
 the 
 tires measured 38 or 39mm with calipers.  If I were to buy again, I'd be 
 tempted to buy to sets of tires.  45 knobbies to run without fenders and 
 35 
 Supremes to run with for road adventures.  I may get a second set of 
 wheels 
 in the future to have the easier swapping capability.  If I can figure 
 out 
 a quick release for the SKS fenders, I'd be all set (If anyone has a 
 solution, please pass it on).  In the meantime, I'm hanging on to my SOMA 
 Groove and looking to put even fatter tires on that.  

 John


 On Sunday, November 16, 2014 2:33:17 PM UTC-8, Mike S wrote:

 So I currently have my Sam Hillborne as my only bike, though I was 
 considering adding a front suspension/disc-brake mountain bike to the 
 stable. There's a deal for a Jamis 650B dragon pro on the interwebs now 
 for 
 $1400, but I'm thinking I could rather add a second set of very nice 
 wheels 
 with fatter tires instead. My main reason to do this is so that first of 
 all, I can have a set of slicks and a set of studded tires in the 
 winter, 
 as I live in a very icy/snowy area and am bummed out by having just 
 studded 
 tank tires to ride in winter. Beyond that, I want to have a set of 
 wheels 
 with a 55mm-ish tire that can handle most gravel/firetrail/light 
 singletrack in a ride like the Oregon Outback, as I am hoping to 
 actually 
 do that ride this summer. It would also just be nice to have this set of 
 wheels that can handle more aggressive off-road riding to go explore 
 different areas where I'm at (Eastern Washington). 

 So, I guess the question I pose to the group is: better to have a 
 second, cheap-ish mountain bike or a second set of really nice wheels to 
 maximize the All-Rounderness of a Hillborne? I've been thinking also 
 about 
 Jan Heine's opinion that a rigid all-road bike with fat tires is the 
 Porsche 911 of a gravel-orientated ride, and I

[RBW] Installing Tioga Studs on Grip King Pedals

2009-10-03 Thread Mike Shaljian

I have an extra set of Tioga grip studs and I just bought some Grip
King Pedals, and I was wondering if any of you all know what tools/
procedures are necessary to get the studs to thread into the GK holes.
I saw a hand - drill mentioned on RBW's website, but I do not know
what that is.

So basically, has anybody on here installed these and if so could you
please give a brief description of how to do it. I'm sure it's simple,
but clarification would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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[RBW] Best Methods for Shellac Application

2009-09-25 Thread Mike Shaljian

I recently shellacked some dark blue Japanese cloth tape, and the end
result was pretty unsatisfactory. My guess is I put it on way too
thick, and when it was dry it had this thick, hideous amber crust all
on the surface. It comes off if you rub at it real good, but it looks
nothing else some of the beautiful results I've seen on cotton tape
with Zinser Amber Shellac.

Is the secret applying it very lightly in several coats, and giving
ample time to dry between each coat? I really hate to waste anymore of
that fine Japanese tape, so any tips would be appreciated. I'm also
wondering if it's even worth shellacking at all, I mean does it really
add to looks/durability enough to bother? All opinions appreciated,
thanks.
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[RBW] Re: For Sale: My Quickbeam's Stock Wheelset

2009-08-27 Thread Mike Shaljian

Sorry for forgetting to include a price. I'm asking $250 for the
wheelset  $20/ea sh via UPS.

On Aug 26, 3:40 pm, Mike Shaljian mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 Greetings All,

 Due to a previously committed buyer backing out, I am again offering
 up for sale myQuickbeam'sstock wheelset. The wheelset came with 
 myQuickbeamwhich was purchased directly from Rivendell in May. The
 wheels have been ridden under 100 miles, as they were merely a
 placeholder until I get some custom wheels built up. They are in
 superb condition with no significant blemishes, and they are true.

 The wheelset consists of the following: 32H Mavic Open Sport Rims.
 Suzue track hubs w/ quick - release skewers (120mm rear/100mm front).
 Excellent quality spokes of I - don't - know - which make  gauge. An
 18t Shimano freewheel. * There is also the option of adding a hardly
 ridden Shimano Dura - Ace track cog for $15.

 Pictures are available upon request, but you can get the idea of what
 they look like from theQuickbeamcomplete bike pics on rivbike.com
 Again, there are no significant defects cosmetic or otherwise with the
 wheels.

 Thanks for your interest,

 Mike
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[RBW] FS: *Brand New* Black Brooks B.17 Standard

2009-08-26 Thread Mike Shaljian

Greetings RBW Owners,

I bought a B.17 Standard on Ebay a while back for a Ressurectio I'm
working on, but I decided to go with a B.17 Special for it instead.
Therefore, I need to sell this brand new, still - in - full -
packaging Standard black B.17. It also includes the Brooks saddle
tensioning wrench twined to original packaging.

It will come in the extra fancy box that Brooks sends their stuff out
in, and the saddle itself is attached to the company cardboard
placard. It has never, ever been used or treated with anything.

Picture of a B.17 from Riv here: 
http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/saddles_and_seat_posts#product=11-055

Price is $90 + $10 s/h = $100.

Many thanks for your interest,

Mike

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[RBW] For Sale: My Quickbeam's Stock Wheelset

2009-08-26 Thread Mike Shaljian

Greetings All,

Due to a previously committed buyer backing out, I am again offering
up for sale my Quickbeam's stock wheelset. The wheelset came with my
Quickbeam which was purchased directly from Rivendell in May. The
wheels have been ridden under 100 miles, as they were merely a
placeholder until I get some custom wheels built up. They are in
superb condition with no significant blemishes, and they are true.

The wheelset consists of the following: 32H Mavic Open Sport Rims.
Suzue track hubs w/ quick - release skewers (120mm rear/100mm front).
Excellent quality spokes of I - don't - know - which make  gauge. An
18t Shimano freewheel. * There is also the option of adding a hardly
ridden Shimano Dura - Ace track cog for $15.

Pictures are available upon request, but you can get the idea of what
they look like from the Quickbeam complete bike pics on rivbike.com
Again, there are no significant defects cosmetic or otherwise with the
wheels.

Thanks for your interest,

Mike

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[RBW] Re: For Sale: My Quickbeam's Stock Wheelset

2009-08-24 Thread Mike Shaljian

This wheelset has been claimed by Rocky.

On Aug 24, 9:56 am, Rocky B luggedsteel.fatti...@gmail.com wrote:
 I would like to purchase if its still available.

 -Rocky

 On Aug 23, 8:09 pm, Mike Shaljian mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:

  Greetings All,

      I am looking to sell the stock wheelset from the Quickbeam I
  purchased directly from Rivendell in May of this year. I had the
  wheels on for just a couple weeks and rode definitely under 100 miles
  on them. I've since replaced them with Phil/Mavic A719 custom wheels,
  so I just have no need for them -- there is absolutely nothing wrong
  with them, they're 99.9% true too.

      The wheels consist of a 32h Mavic Open Sport rim, Suzue high -
  flange track hubs w/ quick release skewers (120mm rear/100mm front),
  and I'm sure very good spokes of I - don't - know - which make and
  gauge. They have a Polylite plastic rim strip.

      I would be happy to get a picture up for a prospective buyer, but
  I can't get to it at the time of posting, right here and now. The
  wheels are in like new condition with no significant blemishes or
  defects. When I spoke with John @ Riv before buying and I asked him
  what the estimated value of the wheels would be if they were sold as a
  standalone wheelset, he said about $350. Being that they have rolled
  off the showroom floor, I'm offering them here for $250/set + s/h. I
  believe the shipping will be $20 per wheel.

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[RBW] For Sale: My Quickbeam's Stock Wheelset

2009-08-23 Thread Mike Shaljian

Greetings All,

I am looking to sell the stock wheelset from the Quickbeam I
purchased directly from Rivendell in May of this year. I had the
wheels on for just a couple weeks and rode definitely under 100 miles
on them. I've since replaced them with Phil/Mavic A719 custom wheels,
so I just have no need for them -- there is absolutely nothing wrong
with them, they're 99.9% true too.

The wheels consist of a 32h Mavic Open Sport rim, Suzue high -
flange track hubs w/ quick release skewers (120mm rear/100mm front),
and I'm sure very good spokes of I - don't - know - which make and
gauge. They have a Polylite plastic rim strip.

I would be happy to get a picture up for a prospective buyer, but
I can't get to it at the time of posting, right here and now. The
wheels are in like new condition with no significant blemishes or
defects. When I spoke with John @ Riv before buying and I asked him
what the estimated value of the wheels would be if they were sold as a
standalone wheelset, he said about $350. Being that they have rolled
off the showroom floor, I'm offering them here for $250/set + s/h. I
believe the shipping will be $20 per wheel.

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