RE: [TANKS] no more Tiger at Aberdeen?

[Paul Hilton]

There has been a plan in place for some time to move the Ordnance Museum to
Ft. Lee.  I suppose the plan is being implemented.  I'd like to see how they
plan to move some of the larger items like the 16 inch gun and the rail
mounted German gun.  The collection is very extensive and I can't imagine
how moving it could possibly save Uncle Sugar a single dime.

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 5:16 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] no more Tiger at Aberdeen?

 

I have been hearing over the last few days that the Tiger at Aberdeen hasn't
been there in some time and is in some place called Ft Eustis (sp?)

 

can anyone confirm this?

 

I have no idea where this place is (did a search and) - currently it's
showing to be in Newport News, Va.

 

anyone able to confirm if the Tiger is there now?

 

 

 

i was also old the Elephant is no longer at Aberdeen either

 

Chris,
Odyssey Slipways  

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{Disarmed} RE: [TANKS] T-34 origins

[Paul Hilton]

It did have a tiny gun.  All other tanks of the era had similar tiny guns.  

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ryan P.
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 8:00 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] T-34 origins

 

It had a tiny gun for light weight.

Ryan p.

 


On Mar 31, 2011, at 12:06 AM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

don't know what it was called before that, but i think there is a tank fan
in here that should know - it looks like one of them tanks that could run
with or without tracks. i think it had light armor and could travel at fast
speeds, someone i thought made a tank similar to it, i think it was even
mocked up out of cardboard first

 

Chris,
Odyssey Slipways  

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{Disarmed} RE: [TANKS] T-34 origins

[Paul Hilton]

Also, Chrys from Greece made a BT.  I'm sort of stalled in the middle of a
BT-7.  If you need any pics or info, I'm your guy.

  And.   the Polish tank was a 10-TP, I had it turned around.

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jeremy Caylor
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 1:12 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] T-34 origins

 

Its called the BT-7, and yes the early versions could run on roads with the
tracks removed, but the design was switched to only allow tracked travel due
to the trackless design being impractical.

On Mar 31, 2011 12:07 AM,  wrote:
> don't know what it was called before that, but i think there is a tank fan

> in here that should know - it looks like one of them tanks that could run 
> with or without tracks. i think it had light armor and could travel at
fast 
> speeds, someone i thought made a tank similar to it, i think it was even 
> mocked up out of cardboard first
> 
> Chris,
> _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) 
> 
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{Disarmed} RE: [TANKS] T-34 origins

[Paul Hilton]

Yep, BT-7.  Basic design by J. Walter Christie.  By all accounts Mr.
Christie was rather difficult to deal with.  He had several run ins with the
war department.  His designs were also influential in the development of the
British "cruiser" tanks such as the Comet and Cromwell as well as the Polish
TP-10.  As far as I've been able to find out, there is a single example of a
Christie M-1928 or T-3 Combat Car at Aberdeen Proving Ground.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jeremy Caylor
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 1:12 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] T-34 origins

 

Its called the BT-7, and yes the early versions could run on roads with the
tracks removed, but the design was switched to only allow tracked travel due
to the trackless design being impractical.

On Mar 31, 2011 12:07 AM,  wrote:
> don't know what it was called before that, but i think there is a tank fan

> in here that should know - it looks like one of them tanks that could run 
> with or without tracks. i think it had light armor and could travel at
fast 
> speeds, someone i thought made a tank similar to it, i think it was even 
> mocked up out of cardboard first
> 
> Chris,
> _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) 
> 
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RE: [TANKS] cheap 12" action figures

[Paul Hilton]

Ken..  Try a department store like Walmart.  You can buy separate heads if
you don't want them all to look the same.  Heads and uniforms can be had on
ebay in lots.

 

Paul H.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of dwconn...@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 11:34 AM
To: rctankcombat
Subject: [TANKS] cheap 12" action figures

 

Hello -

 

Does anyone of a source for cheap 12" (1/6 scale) military action figures ?
I need a few for R/C tank paintball combat.  I don't want to spend $80
apiece for collection quality figures to get painted, but that's generally
what I'm finding. Is there anything around for $10-$15 each ?

 

   Thanks,

   Doug

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RE: [TANKS] surpluscenter supplement catalog?

[Paul Hilton]

I never use their paper catalog.  Their website looks the same to me.

 

https://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp

 

Paul H.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 1:42 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] surpluscenter supplement catalog?

 

i got a smaller catalog from the surpluscenter and was wondering is this
just a seasonal supplement catalog or is this their (new size) regular
catalog?

 

I just tried calling them to check, but said i'd have to call back during
regular weekday work hours.

 

i'm just curious if this is the new regular catalog, because if this is the
new regular catalog, they dropped a bit of stuff and can be a problem for
some of use as they dropped just about all of the sprockets

 

Chris,
Odyssey Slipways  

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RE: [TANKS] Battery?

[Paul Hilton]

Look at the sealed lead acid batteries on the same site.  To answer your
questions, no and no.

 

Paul H.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of ryan wells
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 12:54 PM
To: tank guys
Subject: [TANKS] Battery?

 

Would this battery work for a tank... is it even rechargeable?
http://www.batterymart.com/p-eveready-732-12v-lantern-battery.html
Ryan P. 

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RE: [TANKS] spektrum radios

[Paul Hilton]

Another huge servo chart:

 

http://www.servodatabase.com/servos/all

 

Paul H.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of ryan wells
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 6:14 PM
To: tank guys
Subject: [TANKS] spektrum radios

 

If I get the optional receiver with the spektrum 5 channel transmitter do i
need to buy a rechargeable battery for the receiver? Will i need to buy a
charger for that battery? Will spektrum digital servos work with the
optional reveiver? Do i need to buy a servo programer? Please answer these
ASAP.

Ryan P.



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RE: [TANKS] spektrum radios

[Paul Hilton]

Servo chart:

 

http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servos.html

 

The included link to the "Giant Servo Chart" is helpful as well.

 

Paul H.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of ryan wells
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 6:14 PM
To: tank guys
Subject: [TANKS] spektrum radios

 

If I get the optional receiver with the spektrum 5 channel transmitter do i
need to buy a rechargeable battery for the receiver? Will i need to buy a
charger for that battery? Will spektrum digital servos work with the
optional reveiver? Do i need to buy a servo programer? Please answer these
ASAP.

Ryan P.



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RE: [TANKS] spektrum radios

[Paul Hilton]

My Spektrum DX-6 came with a charger that can be used for the transmitter
and receiver batteries at the same time.  Looks like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390160038501&rvr_id=&crlp
=1_263602_263622&UA=%3F*I7&GUID=495d97d91240a075f373dae3fffc7da4&itemid=3901
60038501&ff4=263602_263622

Paul H.

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bill Hamilton
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 6:43 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] spektrum radios

You'll need a receiver battery and something to charge it.  Dunno what
a servo programmer is, I didn't need one to get the servos to work
with the radio.

On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 5:13 PM, ryan wells  wrote:
> If I get the optional receiver with the spektrum 5 channel transmitter do
i
> need to buy a rechargeable battery for the receiver? Will i need to buy a
> charger for that battery? Will spektrum digital servos work with the
> optional reveiver? Do i need to buy a servo programer? Please answer these
> ASAP.
>
> Ryan P.
>
>
> 
> Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
> inbox. See how.
>
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RE: [TANKS] Reciever control

[Paul Hilton]

Guess I didn't think that one through, did I Frank?  There are several
gizmos on the market to do this.  Here are a couple:

http://www.endurance-rc.com/rcswitches.html

http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store/p/3206-Electronic-R-C-PWM-Switch-RC-110
-.aspx

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-TD-RCE210.html

http://www.bpesolutions.com/rcequip.html

Paul H.



-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 1:50 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Reciever control

Paul Hilton wrote:
> Couldn't you use a relay with a 5V coil to control the 12V load?

The servo signal is not an analog signal, it is a logic signal with a 
1-2ms wide pulse that repeats approx every 20ms.  As such, it can't be 
used directly to trigger anything, it must be interpreted by another 
circuit.  The receiver pin also doesn't source enough current to drive 
anything other than logic levels.

Simple PIC circuits can be designed to translate from servo signals to 
switches of any size.  See:

http://www.anvilus.com/mrc.html

for an inexpensive circuit that can drive 4 relays (or any 150ma load) 
from two servo channels.  It even includes mixing if you want that 
feature.  Add 4 inexpensive auto relays to that circuit and you'll have 
a solution that is far less expensive and far easier to fix than 
anything else on the market.

Frank P.

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RE: [TANKS] Reciever control

[Paul Hilton]

Couldn't you use a relay with a 5V coil to control the 12V load?

Paul H.

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of steveh
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 6:33 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Reciever control

Ok, Since receivers have a voltage output of 3-7v roughly, does anyone
know of a way to convert that so that you can control a 12vdc relay?

Thank You
Steve

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RE: [TANKS] Vex Transmitter

[Paul Hilton]

I have one with a bum channel. 3 I think   Would this work for you?

Paul H.


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Tyng
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 11:46 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Vex Transmitter

Anybody have a VEX transmitter they'd be willing to let go for a good
price?

Steve Tyng

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Tank

[Paul Hilton]

Not sure what the "super 6" and "super 8" biz is all about but make sure
they operate on ground frequencies or 2.4GHz.  Inexpensive radios can be
found on ebay fairly often.  Pick a simple tank!

 

Paul H.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of ryan wells
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 7:19 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: Tank

 

So insted of starting with the hull I need to work with the internals? I
bought a 1/32 scale tank to get dimensions. I was also planning on using 24v
electric scooter motors. I dont know what I will use for a motor controller
yet, but on the subject of radios. I am planning on using a super six radio
and super eight reciver from www.servocity.com. Right now that is all i got.


Ryan


 
> Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 04:13:10 -0800
> Subject: [TANKS] Re: Tank
> From: funkyne...@ntlworld.com
> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> 
> It sounds like you have a good start already Ryan , 1/2" ply is my
> language .
> 
> 1/ choose a subject tank and find drawings with dimensions
> 2/ perchase motors/transmition/radio set
> 3/ choose a track type/drive wheels/road wheels
> 4/ build your hull with your motors/transmition in mind
> 
> it may seem a good idea to just build a tank hull at first ,but I
> think this can lead to later problems , carfull planning will pay off
> in the long run .
> very expert advice is on hand to help you every step of the way ,
> enjoy
> 
> Neil R
> 

  _  

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RE: [TANKS] Sprockets

[Paul Hilton]

This is about the best for sprockets.

 

https://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp

 

Paul H.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morgan, John
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 9:32 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Sprockets

 

What is a good source for sprockets?  I need a 4.5 - 5 inch diameter 12 or
13 tooth sprocket (actually, I need 4 of them).

 

Thanks,

 

John Morgan

Richmond, VA

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RE: [TANKS] Rubber for Wheels

[Paul Hilton]

Two ideas that I had were vacuum cleaner belts and those rubber bracelets
that kids wear.  You might also try vulcanizing your own tires!

 

Paul H.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morgan, John
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:31 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Rubber for Wheels

 

Hi all,

 

I nearly have the suspension done for the Sherman.  I need to get rubber for
the wheels.  The wheels are 2.75" in diameter and 1.25" in width.  I would
love to get an elastic band so the rubber would be seamless, but have had no
luck finding such.  If any of you have ideas, let me know.

 

Thank you,

 

John Morgan

Richmond, VA

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Status of Brummbar Speed Controllers?

[Paul Hilton]

And yet more smiles! Glad to see this scooter motor controller biz working
out!

As for me, I've put the BT-7 on hold to work on the spin caster and mold
vulcanizer...  I've also been bitten by the 1/16 scale bug  But I'm
still here!

Paul H. 

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:51 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Status of Brummbar Speed Controllers?

Fred Thomson wrote:
> I would be very interested in one of these for the Ariete and would
> love to retrofit the Bulldog. Do you have any data on cost?

Price is the first and last thing I think about ... I'm currently in the 
middle of the process (prototype, design, testing, manufacturing) so I 
won't know for sure until the actual boards are laid out.  My target all 
along has been dual-motor control for less than $100 and I now know that 
goal is definitely attainable, now I just need to see how low the bar 
can be set.

Frank P.

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RE: [TANKS] Status of Brummbar Speed Controllers?

[Paul Hilton]

This makes me smile!!!

Paul H.

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:56 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Status of Brummbar Speed Controllers?

Thomas Lum wrote:
> I was wondering how the scooter speed controllers worked out on the
> T012?  Any field test results?

They worked without a problem during the last Gettysburg battles, which 
is our only battlefield experience to date.  However, I plan on 
deploying some more vehicles with scooter motor controllers in 2010 
which is an indication of how well I think they work.

At $20-$25 for each 350W-500W controller they fit well into my "beefy, 
cheap and repairable" approach to system design.  For much less the 
price of the high-amp commercial products (less than $100), I'll be 
using two scooter controllers, 4 auto relays and a circuit board to 
provide fully proportional speed control.  With the money I save, I'll 
have a nice stockpile of spare parts in my box.  More importantly, since 
the system is modular, if something does fail (on any vehicle) I can 
replace any individual component "in the field" in just a couple minutes 
with only a screwdriver.

The only significant drawback of the approach is that the solution 
requires more space in the vehicle than a fully integrated commercial 
speed controller because the scooter controllers have their own heat 
sink cases.  On the other hand, they have much more surface area for 
cooling.  If space is a major concern, the scooter controllers can be 
replaced by a pair of SSRs and heat sinks, resulting in a clone of the 
Anvilus controller design ... which has been successfully used in dozens 
of battles by various vehicles for over 5 years.  (In fact, the scooter 
motor controller approach is the evolution of the Anvilus design using 
modular components.  Joe led the way with the development of some 
circuits to control the controllers, I've simply been running with the 
ball he passed to me, making things more modular.)

The modular approach also requires more control wires between the 
circuit board and the relays/controllers, but the control wires are all 
small gauge.

A complete set of scooter controller components will be on display at 
the upcoming Tank Expo 2010 which is tentatively slated for Saturday, 
Jan 16 in Annapolis.

Frank P.

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RE: [TANKS] Complete Newbie...

[Paul Hilton]

Welcome to the group!  I was looking at building a B-1 Centauro myself!  I
think you should keep a couple of things in mind.  Firstly, others will be
shooting paintballs at your vehicle.  This means that your hull will need to
stand up to some pretty violent impacts.  Secondly, your wheels will need to
be in the neighborhood of 8" in diameter.  I don't know much about monster
trucks, but I haven't seen many with that size wheels.  Thirdly, anything
that you strengthen after you start your build will add weight.  I would
suggest going big from the start.  And, finally..  Have a look at the rules
for an armored car.  No matter how large the gun, no matter how thick the
armor the actual vehicle has, an arored car will always be at a
disadvantage.  Good luck!!!

 

Paul H. 

 

From: whitney james [mailto:me1y...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 8:06 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Complete Newbie...

 

Hey all! 
Been a lurker here for more years than my pride would allow me to admit, but
I'm finally taking the plunge and beginning a build. 
To start off with, the site is about tanks. That much is obvious. However,
I've seen a couple armored cars there, and I think that is where my interest
lies. And so, I present the B1 Centuaro. It's got a nice bulky body to fit
all those moving bit's that make it do cool things, as well as nice sloped
armor that will (in theory anyway) make up for a relatively weak armor
rating (25mm up front: upgradable to 30mm). However, it does come with a
105mm main gun, so that puts us into Tank Destroyer territory. (evil little
grin)

 

 
http://www.sbmodels.net/images/New_From/ModelVictoria/MV002/images/MV0002.jp
g

  
 





Yup: it's wheeled. I don't know why, but in a place beyond all reason, I
find a wheeled vehicle vastly easier to engineer than a tracked one. I know:
I have issues. Still, what do you do?

 

Anyway. The site has made the comment that RC car parts simply do not stand
up to the strains demanded of them in this sport. Well, being a complete
idiot, I threw that advice out in favor of RC parts. 

My basic plan is to scrounge Evil-Bay and dredge up some Nitro RC
monstertruck parts, and build my driveline/suspension system from that. 

The vast bulk will be taken from the Traxxas company, as they seems of a
fairly reputable sort, and their T-Maxx and Revo trucks are both everywhere,
and as any number of UTube videos will document, are nearly indestructible.
I figure anything designed to leap 12 feet in the air, fly 25 horizontal
feet, land on it's head, and keep going is probably fairly tough.
Additionally, parts can be had for fairly cheap, so there you go.

 

As the B1 has 4 sets of wheels, I'll need parts from 2 RC monster trucks. I
considered merely buying two of them, stripping what I need and
Craigslisting/E-baying the rest of the bits off, but at ~$200 a pop, that
was a bit too much of an initial investment. I'm on a bit of a budget here,
as my better (and wiser) half has authorized around $20 a month to be put
into this thing so that option was out. As mentioned, I've taken the plunge
and purchased (won) 3 bulkheads (mounts for the swing arms: 2 rear, and 1
front), some swing arm pins (enough for 2 axles), and (hopefully) a set of
A-Arms (2 axles worth). Assuming I am correct: that their description of a
"complete set" of A-Arms included 4 upper, and 4 lower, I will be in
possession of the above mentioned pieces for the grand total of $35.85. This
is about half my suspension system. 

 

"How to get the power to the wheels?" you might ask. Again, the commercial
market comes to the rescue. I've seen differentials for the Traxxas Revo 3.3
going for around $10 plus shipping. Considering it costs 6 times that to
build one from your local hobby shop, that's on the menu for next month. 

In total, I'll need 6 (to be spread over a couple months, obviously): 2 for
the front and rear most differentials, and 4 to be cannibalized into 2
through differentials for the two middle axles. 

 

Now: Most of the tanks I've seen built on the website (Yes, I've looked
through every page of every single one) don't seem to take weight into
account: building with materials such as solid plywood and steel. Note: I
said "most". (little winky emoticon)

My goal will be to build as lightly as possible: hence the commercial nylon
parts (and my lack of fabrication skills.). My assumption is (and yes: this
may end up making an a** out of me) is that the lighter the vehicle, the
less power will be required to move it. Also, as I only will have need of 1
power source. well, my logic falls apart there, but it seems like those two
things should be complimentary. Less power requirements means less battery
requirements means less weight means less power requirements means less
battery. you get the idea. 

 

As a power source (remember, we're going for CHEAP quality here) I'm
planning on the tried and true drill motor setup. I've seen them tried on
tanks, b

[TANKS] Re: Torque rod suspension?

[Paul Hilton]

Cowan wrote:
> Thanks, Paul! thats exactly the info i was looking for. Im a bit
> apprehensive about making my own springs... do you think welding the
> bars to anchor them to the hull or swing arms change the temper of the
> springs? Otherwise, I may have to borrow Brads idea with the locking
> set screws...Im also trying a modified version of the hacksaw blade
> torsion bars in an earlier post... by having the blades inside grease
> filled axles there seems to ba a sort of shock absorbing quality im
> hoping might help prevent pitching during starts and stops...luckily
> ive only got 10 road wheels to work with.
>
> Thanks again,
> Ed
> p.s  Imagine one of the torsion bars shattering in the full scale
> tiger? right under the drivers seat!
>
> On Oct 30, 8:54 am, NavyShooter  wrote:
>   
>> Here's a peek at a bottom view of my suspension, showing a single
>> Torsion bar in place.
>>
>> http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T066/025-large.jpg
>>
>> I used 1/4" spring steel, ground a flat on one side, (each one is
>> individually ground and fitted) and there's a 1/4" bolt tightened
>> against that flat and locked in place with a nut.
>>
>> They will not move.
>>
>> I had the springs made up in an industrial shop on the waterfront,
>> cost me $5 each.
>>
>> If they bend, then I'll straghten 'em or make a couple of new ones.
>>
>> With 4 rods, I can stand on the weighted frame and almost bottom it
>> out.  That's my 215 pounds plus the 100+ pounds of the frame.  So,
>> that means each wheel can support about 75 pounds.
>>
>> I have 14 wheels.
>>
>> That gets me over 1000 pounds.
>>
>> I hope that's good.
>>
>> We'll see how durable it is.
>>
>> Right now, my issue is alignment for the rear idler, and I'm working
>> on that this weekend.
>>
>> Brad
>> 
>
> >
>
>
>
>   
Yes Ed, welding will change the temper, I would avoid that. 

Paul H.


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[TANKS] Re: Torque rod suspension?

[Paul Hilton]

Well Ed,

Full scale torsion bars are not light, I can tell you this from experience. 
Nor are they soft, they are in fact spring steel.  When they fail, they tend 
to either sheer clean, or shatter.  I suspect that 1/6th scale torsion bars 
would be best made from the same sort of material.

As for threading the live end, I doubt that you will be able to, spring 
steel is pretty hard.  Full scale torsion bars are keyed or splined on the 
ends.  If you can start with a softer steel and harden it after threading, 
you'll be able to thread the ends.  Getting several torsion bars the same 
spring rate would take practice, I would imagine.  You may want to put 
left-handed threads on one side, so that gravity will help keep them tight.

As an alternative, I've seen pics of simulated torsion bars made with 
torsion coil springs.  I'll see if I can find them later.

For now, I've attached a pic of a full scale Tiger I's torsion bar 
arrangement.

The odd roadwheel alignment is a feature of torsion bar suspensions.  It 
seems pretty strange at first and you would think it would cause all kinds 
of problems.  It doesn't.  An M-88 (the one I'm most familiar with) has a 
couple more track sections on one side. Think of the track as part of the 
ground. Maybe a better example would be a road.  A road that the vehicle 
lays in front of itself, then recovers.  Forward speed (or reverse) is not 
affected at all.  Speed vs. input RPM is determined by the diameter of the 
drive sprocket, rather than the track length.  You may find that it is 
easier to turn one direction over another due to friction, but I doubt it.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "?" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 3:04 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Torque rod suspension?


>
> I was am concerned about that too. Im worried that any rod light
> enough to twist under load would bend with a good smack from the side.
> I thought about threading the rods right into the swing arm so the arm
> sits right up against the hull, that might help... or have the torsion
> bar inside another axle. right now i'm experimenting with 5/8 tubing
> axles, filled with grease, with hacksaw blade torsion bars inside...I
> have another question though too. On the full scale Chaffee (and a lot
> of tanks I think) the starboard road wheels sit farther forward than
> the port ones, to allow the torsion bars to span the full with of the
> hull. Would this cause any problems with steering/approach angle?
>
> Thanks,
> Ed
>
> On Oct 29, 6:40 am, Steve Tyng  wrote:
>> I'd be interested to see how these bent rod suspensions hold their
>> wheel alignments after a few hard days battling.
>>
>> Steve Tyng
> >
>
> 

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<>

[TANKS] Re: Differentials

[Paul Hilton]

Run with it, Derek.  We'll be watching...

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Derek Engelhaupt 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 4:10 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: Differentials


  Now that the family and I are back from the Caribbean, I can add my two 
cents.  I bought a couple of riding scooter (type used for people that have 
difficulty walking) differentials to play with.  They are a limited slip type 
with a single motor.  They are heavy (15lbs/per differential), but I think the 
heaviness could aide in traction for a battle vehicle.  I was going to play 
with a seesaw type of suspension and use two of them on a vehicle so I could 
get 4 wheel drive.  I do agree that the complexity of the steering and 
suspension of a wheeled vehicle is more daunting that actually creating a 
tracked vehicle.  In order to steer the vehicle, I would need to make one of 
those heavy duty steering servos using a geared motor and a standard r/c servo. 
 Building a wheeled vehicle is pretty low on my list of projects though.

  Derek
  T065




  On Wed, Oct 21, 2009 at 10:02 AM, Doug Conn  wrote:

We talked about self-propelled lawnmower differentials like the ones they 
sell at Surplus Center. It turns out that they cannot go in reverse with some 
mechanical modifications.



-Doug



From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] 
On Behalf Of mac wynkoop
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 6:25 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Differentials



Well, not too long ago I saw a differential on my neighbor's self-propelled 
lawn mower. It looked like it would fit a tank perfectly. Maybe I should ask 
him if he wouldn't mind pushing it again...

On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 12:26 PM, Steve Tyng  wrote:


I have given the subject of differentials in a 1:6 scale r/c combat
vehicles some thought over the years.  At one point I was interested
in building an armored car (AC) and may still do so.  I looked at the
various differentials currently available and have yet to find one
that I feel is appropriate for our vehicles.  On the heavy end are the
differentials built for go-karts.  These are to large for a typical
1:6 scale AC and have monster 3/4" or 1" output shafts.  On the other
end of the spectrum are the hobby differentials produced for "monster"
scale r/c trucks.  I've looked at these and weren't impressed with
there robustness and many plastic parts.  I have seen references to
differentials for 1/4 scale r/c sand buggy's that sounded good but
they were on a German site with little info and the pricing looked to
be exorbitant.  IMO the best option will be a dual motor setup (or
quad motors for 4wd) driven from one speed controller.  This
"electronic" differential provides the same functionality as a
mechanical one in that it provides varying power to the left or right
drive wheels depending on load.  It can be built as robust as required
much as we build our drive-trains currently.  The issue will be
finding the appropriate motors for such a scheme.  The motors will
need to be relatively powerful and small to fit into the smaller
chassis.  For this all we need to do is look to the new electric
skateboard sport where small high-powered motors of up to 600 watts
can be found.  While on Allellectonics.com the other day I noted a
nice 135 watt motor that that I have seen used on electric skateboards
and may prove to be ideal for the smaller wheeled r/c combat vehicle.

  
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-130/24VDC-135W-MOTOR-W/-BELT-GEAR/1.html

If I were to start building an AC tomorrow I'd get two of these motors
and a single reversing scooter controller and design an AC around
that.


Steve Tyng


















  

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[TANKS] Re: Tank electronics?

[Paul Hilton]

Or a cheap garage door opener...   Or a remote door lock controller...

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Stephen Cobb" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 9:04 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Tank electronics?


>
> I like it... 1 channel remote then hot glue it to the back of my
> esky remote hm and the reciever and batts for that servo could
> be in the turret
>
> On Oct 23, 12:45 am, Gregory Pwneror  wrote:
>> I believe that you'd need 2 channels to move a tank chassis, then 2 more 
>> for
>> a turret, you can then hack in a really cheap 1 channel remote, such as 
>> one
>> I salvaged from a 1 channel RC car.
>>
>> -Gregory
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 8:59 AM, Clark Ward Jr  wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > Is the Esky radio on ground-legal frequencies? If so it sounds like a
>> > good thing.
>> > --
>> > Clark M4 Sherman- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
> >
>
> 



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[TANKS] Re: C6C hook up

[Paul Hilton]

Yes, it works.  I assembled one in about an hour with a cheap soldering pencil. 
 You do need some soldering skill to keep from bridging the circuits and 
roasting the components.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Kamron Duncan 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 2:06 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] C6C hook up


  I was wondering if this really works, and how reliable it is, and if its easy 
to put to gether?

   

  -- 
  Conar

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 || 
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 || 
 ||
 ||  gnv
 \/

  

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[TANKS] Re: legal question

[Paul Hilton]

This might help:

http://jbwid.com/scalcalc.htm

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Cansler 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2009 10:04 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: legal question


  Because I'm too lazy to look through my books and do the math myself, to be 
honest I'm still sweating like a animal from a 4 mile run, does anyone have an 
idea of the size of a 1/6 Maus? 

  David
  Florida


  Derek Engelhaupt wrote: 
You tell 'em David!  :)

Derek
T065


On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 8:24 PM, David Cansler  wrote:

  I say go big or go home!

  3ft is for pansies when it comes to the Maus, it's 1/6th or nothing.

  Keep in mind that I haven't completed a set of drawings, much less a 
working tank, in the 2 years that I've been a member of this group.

  David
  Florida


  Modena wrote: 
don't forget it doesn't have to be 1/6 scale, just needs to be at
least 3 feet long


On Sep 27, 5:50 am, Pureteenlard  wrote:
  Well I'm sure that Neil would see it as just a very BIG target!

On Sep 26, 8:47 pm, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:



I do believe I heard the powers that be say if someone had the gumption to
build one
that they would allow it.  ;)  But don't quote me on that.  I would vote for
allowing it, if
it were put to a vote.
  Derek
T065
  On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 1:14 PM, Clark Ward Jr  wrote:
  That has been hotly debated.  Personally, I hold that since one of
them saw combat in a defensive role, it'd be legal.  Some do not
agree, some do.  I don't think it'd be the easiest tank to build, and
that it'd require some powerful motors to run around.  But it'd look
cool.
On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 2:01 PM, Kamron Duncan  
wrote:
i was wondering if it is legal to build the maus german tank.
the reason i ask is because it was built but not really used.
  --
Conar
 ()
   __)(__
'-<>-'
   )(
   ||
   ||
   ||
   ||
   ||
   ||
   ||
   ||  gnv
   \/
  --
Clark in Georgia, Commissar of the Red Banner Southern Fleet
"We will pass through the American patrols, past their sonar nets, and
lay off their largest city, and listen to their rock and roll... while
we conduct missile drills."- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com



  










  

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[TANKS] Re: Rusty Bates

[Paul Hilton]

Metal, but I may use resin as a spin caster can do either.  I was wondering 
about Rusty Bates as he has already cast T-34 tracks in 1/6th scale using a 
spin caster.

http://www.geocities.com/eastpac01/index.html

I've tried contacting him, no luck.

I'm pretty sure that I could get away with polished steel pins to use as cores 
for resin, not so sure I'd get away with it with metal.

Paul H.

  - Original Message - 
  From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 7:35 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: Rusty Bates


  In a message dated 9/13/2009 4:55:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
phil...@defnet.com writes:
Does anyone know how to contact Rusty Bates?  I'm close to conducting my 
first casting trials and am wondering about pin cores...


Paul H.
  is this metal or resin casting?

  Chris,
  Odyssey Slipways

  

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[TANKS] Rusty Bates

[Paul Hilton]

Does anyone know how to contact Rusty Bates?  I'm close to conducting my first 
casting trials and am wondering about pin cores...


Paul H.

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[TANKS] Re: (it's not a Sherman...) it's a M42

[Paul Hilton]

The Duster has twin AA guns...  Bofors, I think...  There is a static example 
fairly near me, if you need pics.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Derek Engelhaupt 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 1:23 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: (it's not a Sherman...) it's a M42


  I guess I should've know to qualify that statement.  That's the only 
difference as far as driving them.
  The engine, tranny, tracks, bogies, sprockets, and most of the deck plates 
are the same.  There are
  differences in some of the hull areas and of course the turrets.

  Derek
  T065


  On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 11:54 PM,  wrote:

In a message dated 8/15/2009 12:46:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
tan...@gmail.com writes:
  The main difference between the two is that the Duster has a manual pump 
to prime the fuel 
  system while the Bulldog has an electric primer.
and that's the only difference you noted between the 2?

(the thought of a nude guy driving his car ending up for being arrested for 
not having proof of insurance, ownership or licence comes to mind - not sure if 
it was a joke or part of a movie and one cop asking the arresting patrolman - 
is that all you noticed was wrong?)

Chris,
Odyssey Slipways






  

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[TANKS] Re: {Disarmed} more "little tank" stuff...

[Paul Hilton]

1/16 mainly.  I'm impressed with their organization and facilities. I think 
some of their activities might be adapted to our groups uses.  Game play and 
battlefield layout for sure...

I'm also interested in smaller scales.  Just now I'm looking at adapting ready 
made 1/32 scale models to R/C.  I may even add a version of I/R combat system...

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Derek Engelhaupt 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 11:56 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: {Disarmed} more "little tank" stuff...


  When you refer to little tanks, what scale are you talking about?  
  The 1/16 scale tanks?  Or just the smaller tanks in 1/6 scale?

  Derek


  On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 11:59 AM, HV  wrote:


How ell do these little tanks drive on a lawn, say grass 4 or 5 in.
tall?





  

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[TANKS] Re: {Disarmed} more "little tank" stuff...

[Paul Hilton]

I do like the smaller, earlier, more primitive vehicles tho

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Derek Engelhaupt 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 11:56 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: {Disarmed} more "little tank" stuff...


  When you refer to little tanks, what scale are you talking about?  
  The 1/16 scale tanks?  Or just the smaller tanks in 1/6 scale?

  Derek


  On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 11:59 AM, HV  wrote:


How ell do these little tanks drive on a lawn, say grass 4 or 5 in.
tall?





  

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[TANKS] Re: Tank Diesel Sound

[Paul Hilton]

These Benedini sound modules seem popular in Europe:

http://www.benedini.de/Home_E/home_e.html

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Frank Pittelli" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 6:45 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Tank Diesel Sound


> 
> One of our members in Spain would like to know where he can purchase a 
> mechanism to play a diesel engine sound in his tank.  Anyone have 
> experience with such things?
> 
> Frank P.
> 
> > 
>


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[TANKS] {Disarmed} more "little tank" stuff...

[Paul Hilton]

- Original Message - 
From: Dana Lowell 
To: armornutsrcarmor...@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 11:40 PM
Subject: [Armornut's RC Armor Hut] Re: Summer fun at the AAF Tank Museum 
"Cook-out" today


  Glad you were in the area Bob. I have some video of the first Tamiya KV-1's 
in action, (below). 

1) Thanks to Doug for hosting!
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809a.jpg

2) It was a good Summer gathering. I hope we do it again!
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809b.jpg

3) And thanks to Doug for letting me experiment with a place for us to stand 
centerfield:
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809d.jpg

4) This little "sidewalk" gave us a closer vantage point to battle across the 
river.
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809g.jpg

5) Plus Doug made a simple electronic "landmine" for the field:
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809p.jpg

6) When a tank drives over the micro-switch, the buzzer sounds and you are 
dead. Ironically, even though I watched him put the mine in place, later in the 
day I was the only tanker to hit the frackin' mine! Notice the buzzer hidden in 
the bushes:
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809q.jpg

7) Speaking of Doug, he showed off a cool metal hull mod for the HL Panzer III:
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809l.jpg

8) It is from AsiaTam, (whoever they are), and has beefier spring suspension:
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809k.jpg

9) It was a typical bad day for my "Mostly Broken" Jumbo. The out-drive broke!
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809h.jpg

10) It was an all-metal gearbox from Impact, and the drive axel broke right in 
two!
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809i.jpg

11) Apparently the shaft was weakened where they scored it to hold the E-clip 
in place:
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809j.jpg

12) The big news of the day was the two brand new Tamiya KV-1 tanks. Luckily, 
James and Dale let me drive them a while. Here's a close-up of James' tank 
after I got it nice and dirty for the first time! The short barrel allows for 
easy city fighting.
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809c.jpg

13) The engine start-up SF/X are cool! At full speed the KV-1 sounds like a 
vacuum cleaner, and at slow speed you can hear a "clanking" of metal tracks. 
Although the sound is rather muffled by the sealed hull. So to let the sound 
out better, I recommend cutting out those two hull exhausts under the turret 
bustle before covering the holes with the photo-etched grills. Here is the back 
of Dale's tank:
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809m.jpg

14) The tracks are 1-3/4" wide, just like the Tiger I, so it handles well in 
dirt. And even after 8 hits, I was still able to climb up a hill with it! 
Here's a peak inside. (You can see it a little better on my video, below).
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809n.jpg

15) One other mod that Dale suggests on the KV-1 is to fabricate a hull 
stiffener for the bow end. Because the torquing of the idler arms causes the 
thin hull to warp inwards, as seen in this photo. (Maybe our friend Daryl can 
invent a good fix someday!)
http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809o.jpg

I just loved that new Tamiya KV-1 monster. It was a big hit at the museum 
Saturday. The KV-1 feels like a motorboat as it floats across the battlefield. 
I hope to get one as soon as I can! 

Well, thanks again to James and Dale for the test drives all day! And I 
especially want to thank Doug Gasser again for putting the food together and 
hosting a fun gathering for the regulars at Danville. -Dana

Here is a link to my YouTube video of Doug's cookout: 
http://www.youtube.com/user/heatarmor



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[TANKS] Re: Turret rotate motor?

[Paul Hilton]

American Science and Surplus sells a slower one for $14.50:

http://www.sciplus.com/categorySpecial.cfm

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Derek Engelhaupt 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 4:47 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Turret rotate motor?


  Just got this in my Email from Electronic Goldmine:

  http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17222

  Looks like it might work well as a turret rotate motor

  Derek
  T065

  

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[TANKS] Re: did I say that ?

[Paul Hilton]

Doug,

If Joe ever perfects his gizmo, I have a two dollar way to defeat it!

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Doug Conn 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:57 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] did I say that ?


  Joe brought a cool thermal camera to the recent battle. He was checking the 
tanks' heat signatures after the battles. I guess he's planning to win the 
coveted Pittelli X-Prize money and retire. I reminded Frank that he said he 
would allow manual control of the tank's tracks, but he didn't remember making 
that concession. Well, Frank, here it is verbatim from your May 18 post:

   

  Autonomous fire-control (ie. rotate/elevate/trigger) is sufficiently 
  difficult that I have no problem allowing you to operate the tracks 
  manually.  Of course, you might be laughed at by the "autonomous 
  purists" that seem to dominate the robotic world ... but then again, 
  they probably won't have the guts to take on the challenge anyway ;-)

   

  Better warm up that check-writing pen. It's spelled A-N-V-I-L-U-S.

   

  -Doug


  

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[TANKS] Re: The latest from Tyng Industries

[Paul Hilton]

Steve,

Instead of the PVC, could you adapt something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/PT-Xtreme-Pistol-Gun-Spare-Feed-Tube-Magazine-RED-mag_W0QQitemZ350113666794QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item51846696ea&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1205%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A3%7C294%3A50

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Steve Tyng 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:18 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] The latest from Tyng Industries


  A prototype field artillery piece to investigate an innovative manual remote 
control system.


  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvxrVPTGhTM


  Steve Tyng

  

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[TANKS] Questions on hosting an event.

[Paul Hilton]

If one were to host an event, what would be required?  I mean, aside from open 
grass and at least two vehicles, what else?  Just curious.

Paul H.
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[TANKS] Re: What's stopping you ?

[Paul Hilton]

Perhaps Doug, Perhaps.  Mid-PA is about the farthest that I'd be able to go.  
Time brother, just not enough of it!

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Doug Conn 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 5:57 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: What's stopping you ?


   

  Maybe a rendezvous in State Colege, PA ? That's Anvilus country. 

   

  -Doug

   

  From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Paul Hilton
  Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 5:05 PM
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: What's stopping you ?

   

  Doug, 

   

  Of the three categories of tankers that you've mentioned (Regulars, Owners 
and Hopefuls), I suppose that I'd fall into the latter one.  One day I'll 
finish something.  

   

  If there is anyone in the northwest Ohio area, I'd be glad to get together 
with you.  A deadline might help!

   

  Paul H.


   




   


  

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[TANKS] Re: What's stopping you ?

[Paul Hilton]

Doug, 

Of the three categories of tankers that you've mentioned (Regulars, Owners and 
Hopefuls), I suppose that I'd fall into the latter one.  One day I'll finish 
something.  

If there is anyone in the northwest Ohio area, I'd be glad to get together with 
you.  A deadline might help!

Paul H.


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[TANKS] Re: Servo hacking.

[Paul Hilton]

Frank Pitelli wrote:
> A hacked servo as a rotate motor would probably only work if you have a
> very large (ie. expensive) servo.  A cheap, powerful motor, with two
> micro-switches and a cheap servo works far better.  Or, you can splurge
> and get an R/C relay switch and use that with a cheap, powerful motor.

Perhaps.  I had my doubts about a cheap Chinese knockoff micro servo pulling 
the trigger of my marker as well, seems to work fine.  If you have a .68 
caliber marker, a 20oz CO2 bottle, a door lock actuator, and five pounds of 
wood to encase it all, a servo would be much too small.  I would guess that 
my turret would weigh about five pounds all told, maybe even less.

Paul H. 



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[TANKS] Servo hacking.

[Paul Hilton]

Ok, I'll be the one to start another thread!

Here are some other links to pages depicting the hacking of servos for 
continuous rotation.  Might be useful for turret rotation.

http://www.embeddedtronics.com/servo.html

http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/servos/servomod.html

http://www.noeticdesign.com/robotics/picobb_hack/picobb_hack.html

http://www.dprg.org/projects/1998-04b/index.html

http://uhaweb.hartford.edu/klimas/servhack.html

This is a short list.  It would be easier, I think, to pick a tutorial to 
follow, then find a servo to match.

Paul H.


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[TANKS] Artillery, smaller scales, and other musings.

[Paul Hilton]

I was researching gun emplacements using tank turrets such as panzerturms and 
tobruks when a thought entered my mind.  Firstly, such things might be a fairly 
easy starting point for a beginner.  Secondly, such things exist at a fair 
price in 1/35 scale.  Thirdly, (I have to give a bit of background on this one) 
(a) I have been looking at Fruil metal tracks for quite some time.  (b) I have 
two BT-7 1/35 scale static models that I picked up to scale my 1/6 BT-7 from 
that I have no real use for.  (c) I have been researching a good way to hack 
servos to convert to continuous rotation.  (d) I just finished assembling a 
Tamiya twin motor gearbox, just to see how it works.  (e) I picked up a Panzer 
38t cheap from Wal-Mart (in 1/32 scale) that turns out to have working road 
wheels and sprockets.

So, keeping all of this in mind, I've decided to build those two BT-7 models as 
working r/c models.  Is anyone else working in this scale?  I mean it seems 
like a near no-brainer to me.  The sheer volume of prefab vehicles, buildings, 
people, etc. seem to scream "R/C me!".

I know that we are all about 1/6 scale and paintballs.  Just wondering if 
anyone has done anything in 1/35.

Paul H.
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[TANKS] Re: 25-pounder Gun

[Paul Hilton]

Found this at the bottom of the wiki posted by mike:

http://members.tripod.com/~nigelef/25pdrsheet.htm

Gives the length from muzzle to tow pintle.  Using the shell diameter to set 
a scale isn't a bad idea either, this was suggested by another member.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Steve Tyng" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 4:23 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: 25-pounder Gun


>
> Just found this.  No scale marks though.
>
> http://www.army.forces.gc.ca/15FIELD_ARTILLERY/images/Unit_Site/History2/25-Pounder-Gun.gif
>
> Anybody know the outer diameter of the tires used on the 25 Pounder?
>
> Steve
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: torsion bar suspension

[Paul Hilton]

Both the old and new boards can be found here:

http://www.rctankcombat.com/

Most of the torsion bar biz is in the new mailing list.  

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jason R Schafer 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 12:43 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: torsion bar suspension


  Where is this group board?
  Jason


  On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 11:40 AM, Thomas Lum  wrote:


You may want to do a little search on the group boards, a lot of discussion 
has been put out there regarding torsion suspensions.
Tom


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[TANKS] Re: what material for flexible hinge ?

[Paul Hilton]

Doug,
I have lots of captive pin piano hinges, I could send you a couple.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Doug Conn" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 1:38 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: what material for flexible hinge ?


>
> Thanks, John (and everybody). That sounds like a good solution. I'll try 
> the
> inner lip like you suggest and the piano hinge like George suggested.
>
> - Doug
>
> -Original Message-
> From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
> On Behalf Of jvragu47
> Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 12:26 PM
> To: R/C Tank Combat
> Subject: [TANKS] Re: what material for flexible hinge ?
>
>
> Doug,
>  How big of a hatch are you making? I've never had trouble with
> paint leaking into the compartment. I would flush mount the hatch, I
> use 1" brass hinges , and have the hatch rest on an inner lip. If you
> want to ,line the lip with thin rubber from a bicycle tube. I'll show
> you the locking key next battle that I made for the Comet.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> On May 16, 12:54 am, "Doug Conn"  wrote:
>> Hello -
>>
>> One of the things I don't like about my tank is that reloading is a very
>> slow process. To correct that, I'm installing a hatch in the top of my
>> turret. I need a hinge mechanism, but I'm not sure what material would be
>> best. I want to use a strip of flexible material, like rubber, to help
> keep
>> out the paint. I also want to paint it, though, and I don't think I can
>> paint rubber. Any suggestions ?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Doug
>
>
> >
>
> 



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[TANKS] Re: I won !

[Paul Hilton]

Good job, Doug!  Perhaps some modification of your device would help some of us 
get off our arses and finish our tanks!

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Doug Conn 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2009 11:33 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] I won !


  Frank suggested that I let the group know that I won the Sparks competition I 
mentioned earlier on this forum. There's proof !

   

  http://www.microsoft.com/presspass/press/2009/apr09/04-03SPARKsWinnersPR.mspx

   

  Now, let me preemptively answer your questions: J

  No, you can't borrow some money. 

  No, I won't be distributing free tanks.

   

  In fact, I intend to blow the whole wad my next super-tank ! Solid gold rims 
with "spinners", fuel cell power supply, hydraulic suspension, and a pair of 
big fur dice dangling from the barrel !

   

 Thanks,

  Doug


  

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[TANKS] Re: DX6 HELP!

[Paul Hilton]

Good data, Blake.  Not sure how it helps with the issues that I'm having with 
the DX6.  The only reference to the DX6 that I saw was an ad to sell a radio.  
I do have two 1/16th scale tanks, so the link won't go to waste!

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Blake Bobbitt 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 12:28 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: DX6 HELP!


  rctankwars.com smaller scale same electronics




--
  From: Paul Hilton 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 11:22:28 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] DX6 HELP!


  OK, here it is fellows.  I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get 
rid of all the mixing crap from my Spektrum DX6.  Does anyone have a 
line-by-line setup guide for ground vehicles?  I had the Spektrum setup 
attached to my Sabertooth 2x25 for a low volt, low amp test and couldn't get 
either motor to go forwards.  I've since switched to the VEX setup and the 
Sabertooth works fine.

  Paul "What the Hell is a Flaperon Anyway" Hilton


  

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[TANKS] DX6 HELP!

[Paul Hilton]

OK, here it is fellows.  I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get 
rid of all the mixing crap from my Spektrum DX6.  Does anyone have a 
line-by-line setup guide for ground vehicles?  I had the Spektrum setup 
attached to my Sabertooth 2x25 for a low volt, low amp test and couldn't get 
either motor to go forwards.  I've since switched to the VEX setup and the 
Sabertooth works fine.

Paul "What the Hell is a Flaperon Anyway" Hilton
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[TANKS] Re: New to this hobby

[Paul Hilton]

Hah!  A kindred spirit!  Keep with it, Derek.  I have the same issue, build 
then modify, then modify again.  I haven't got a CAD program, nor Solid Works.  
What I have are ideas, some work out, some don't.  Most of the time I need to 
build something to see why it won't work, then modify it so that it does.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Derek Engelhaupt 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 10:57 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: New to this hobby


  Oh, I spent a lot of time thinking about building...problem with thinking is 
there is no tangible product.  Yes, my approach was to build it, test it, see 
it didn't work, and then build it again and again until it did work.  That's 
just my personality though.  I have to make progress (forward or backward) on 
something tangible or I get board.  I've said it many times, the theory in my 
head didn't always work in a practical application.  To me it's easier to fix 
something that's broke than it is to make something work from scratch even it 
means totally rebuilding the broken item.  I haven't really wasted that much 
material though.  I keep my mistakes and make smaller parts from the big 
mistakes... :)

  Derek
  T065


  On Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 9:29 PM, Gregory Pwneror  wrote:

Hmmm, Derrek, you took the same approach as Dave Manson and his Big Mother 
tank. But it works. Basically, prepare to spend a lot of time, blood, sweat, 
tears and money on it. Then get donw to it and get working.






  

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[TANKS] Scooter motors at All Electronics.

[Paul Hilton]

Thought I would give you all a heads up.  In my regular browsing of surplus 
outlets online I found these:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-130/24VDC-135W-MOTOR-W/-BELT-GEAR/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-1250/24VDC-250W-MOTOR-11-TOOTH-SPROCKET/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-160/24VDC-600W-MOTOR-15T-W/CLUTCH/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-1350/24VDC-350W-MOTOR-15-TOOTH-CLUTCH/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-2413/24VDC-135W-MOTOR-BELT-DRIVE-SPROCKET/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-1352/24VDC-350W-MOTOR-11-TOOTH-12-WIRE/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-636/36VDC-450W-MOTOR-11T-SPROCKET/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-2465/24VDC-650W-MOTOR-11T-SPROCKET/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-2445/24VDC-450W-MOTOR-W/-PLANETARY-GEAR/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-1503/24VDC-450W-MOTOR-CLUTCH-15T-SPROCKET/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-1501/24VDC-450W-MOTOR-D-SHAFT/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-1506/24V-135W-MOTOR-BELT-SPROCKET/1.html

Several of these have one way clutches, but they can be replaced.

Paul H.

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[TANKS] Re: SSR go pop - the magic blue smoke comes out....

[Paul Hilton]

You might want to consider mounting your SSR's on a large heat sink.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Modena" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:41 AM
Subject: [TANKS] SSR go pop - the magic blue smoke comes out


> 
> I was playing with C6C and ESC calibration, had the tank up on blocks,
> and got it all working nicely, centered the joysticks yada yada
> 
> then driving around a little in the garage, was about to do a climb
> test, and she stopped dead. Control relays on the Anvilus SSR were
> still clicking, but no movement. Shut everything down, started
> everything up again, go to move, POP and the magic blue smoke came out
> of one of the SSR's - now she still drives well, only in circles :(
> 
> Anyone have any idea what would make an SSR go bang? I am using a
> 60amp fuse before the SSR, motors are M01's. The tank had no
> obstruction in its way, so its not like it was stalled.
> > 
>


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[TANKS] Re: Sturmtiger traverse installed

[Paul Hilton]

I must say Derek, that is a very attractive tin you have as a magazine!

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Derek Engelhaupt 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 11:30 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Sturmtiger traverse installed


  Just a few pics of the gear motor and lead screw set-up I got for $19.95 + 
shipping.  Works really nice.  Since it's a lead screw and motor, the traverse 
stays put even after you release the transmitter joystick - it doesn't 
auto-center.  Helps for those long range shots making fine adjustments.  The 
gun will traverse as slow or as fast as you want it to using the Vantec RET-411 
that is controlling it.  It will span from full left to full right in about 1 
second at full speed.  I would also venture to say that my idea of using one of 
these gear motor/lead screws would work great as a steering servo due to the 
fast transition time.  The only problems with using it as a steering servo 
would be the expense ($19.95 + cost of the ESC of your choice) and the fact 
that it doesn't auto-center.  It does have massive torque for a small gear 
motor.  The two clevis pieces and threaded rod came from McMaster-Carr.  
Surprisingly they weren't that expensive through them.  Anyway.

  Derek
  T065

  



--






--






--




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[TANKS] Re: Speed control question

[Paul Hilton]

Brad, I would suspect the "long lead hookup"  might be the socket for the 
PS2 controller.  Could be wrong, seems there are several versions.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "NavyShooter" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:24 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Speed control question


>
> Goodday folks,
>
> Well, I'm at the point where I want to make my tank move.   Using
> something other than just holding the motor leads up to a battery
> terminal or two...
>
> So, I have a C6C prototype that came with my M01 motors I got from
> Anvilus.  I've been looking at the C6C directions, and tonight I
> picked up a Sony PS2 hand controller.
>
> I'm still hanging out with my ears to the ground for the batteries I
> want, but what I need to add into the mix is ESC's for the motors,
> that can be controlled by the C6C.
>
> So.
>
> What do you guys recommend I pick up?
>
> The C6C I have came with a long lead hookup that appears to be some
> sort of converter thingie that'll go to the ESC (s)
>
> What ESC do you guys recommend?  Should I buy independant (one per
> track) or one that's mixed control?
>
> I'm open to ideas folks.  I spent the evening watching Marc's videos
> of Jurre's Leopard, and I'm wanting to get things rolling for the boy!
>
> Thanks, I appreciate your input!
>
> Brad
>
> >
> 



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{Disarmed} Re: [TANKS] track tension

[Paul Hilton]

Here is my take on this, Chris.  I haven't completed a tank yet and I'm not 
sure how all the completed vehicles have dealt with this.  I am, however a 
longtime student of tank suspensions (full scale).  I can't think of a single 
design that required the idler to be spring loaded.  There DOES need to be some 
provision for adjustment.  A spring might be handy in a fixed (unsprung) 
suspension to automatically adjust for stretch or wear.  In a actual sprung 
suspension, the suspension springs would act as a sort of adjustment as the 
track base will only deform to a limited extent.  However, in a simulated 
suspension system, such a device might be useful (I'm looking at such a system 
for my Voroshilovets).  Let me explain.  The track base (the area of ground 
contact) is a given length on a flat surface.  If the track is presented a 
bump, the running track length at the base is increased.  This increase must be 
made up from somewhere.  In an actual suspension system, this would cause the 
vehicle to ride a bit closer to the ground as the other suspension members 
would give to allow the additional base length.  In a simulated suspension, 
there are no suspension members to make up the difference.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 12:24 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] track tension


  i was just talking to someone about the tension of the tracks while running 
over things. i know it has been said in the past that the idler wheel should be 
sprung somehow to take up slack in the tracks as to prevent the tracks from 
getting too slack and possibly throwing themselves.

  but as i was talking to the person it occurred to me that i shouldn't have 
really any track slack as my road wheels are to scale and that the tracks will 
be riding over the tops of the road wheels, so as the tank rides over an 
object, the track goes up, the wheel goes up and hen the track (on top) goes up 
(taking out most of the slack).

  the only place i can see there being and exception to this would be the lead 
and trailing sets of road wheels.

  anyone wish to confirm or debate my thought as to being right or wrong?

  on another note, i just got my stainless steel button heads screws/bolts and 
washers today and they look nice, but i'll have to order more next week as i 
shorted myself about 100 screws/bolts, but for 250 button heads and 300 
washers, with shipping, it was just over $37.00 - about $.08 cents each

  Chris,
  Odyssey Slipways


--
  Free Credit Report and Score Tracking! Get it Now for $0 at CreditReport.com.

  

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[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.

[Paul Hilton]

Yup, bad transmitter.  Second one works fine.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Hilton" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 12:23 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.


>
> Ok, so I tried it.  Vex transmitter to Vex receiver to Vex signal splitter
> to Futaba S3003 servo.  The signal (white) wire on the tab end of the 
> Futaba
> plug will go toward the tabbed slot in the Vex signal splitter.  This will
> be on the outside edge of the signal splitter.  All channels but 3 worked 
> as
> expected.  Channel 3 centered the servo then I had no response.  I'll try 
> my
> other Vex transmitter tomorrow.
>
> Paul H.
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Paul Hilton" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 1:51 PM
> Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.
>
>
>>
>> Got it, Frank.  I'll give it a go.  I feel better knowing that I have a
>> 50/50 chance of getting it right with a very small chance of smoking
>> either
>> item.
>>
>> Paul H.
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "Frank Pittelli" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 1:54 PM
>> Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Paul Hilton wrote:
>>>> Got the headers today!  Thanks Frank!  You were right about the 
>>>> spacing.
>>>> As
>>>> Ron pointed out, there is a tab on the signal side of the Futaba servo
>>>> that
>>>> keeps it from being inserted.  I'll remove the tab today.  I don't know
>>>> if
>>>> the pin arrangement is the same.
>>>
>>> Most servos now use the Futaba standard which is:
>>>
>>> Signal - the "inside" pin, closest to RX circuit
>>> (Futaba = white, Hitec = Yellow, Airtronics = Blue)
>>>
>>> +V - center pin on connector
>>> (All brands = Red)
>>>
>>> GND- the "outside" pin, closest to edge of RX board
>>> (All brands = Black)
>>>
>>> With that arrangement, if you reverse the connector accidentally
>>> (reversing Signal and GND), the servo will either sit still or chatter a
>>> little, but you won't blow the RX or servo.  If, however, you reverse +V
>>> and GND wires, the magic smoke will be released from either the RX,
>>> servo or, for those lucky few, both.
>>>
>>> Frank P.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>>
>
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Video restored from Gettysburg Kelly Heroes

[Paul Hilton]

Cheers, John!  Wish I could have been there.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "JOHN PITTELLI" 
To: "tank club" 
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 12:27 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Video restored from Gettysburg Kelly Heroes


>
>
> Finally able to lighten up the video so it can be viewed. Hope you enjoy 
> it.  John
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUO0wQayxrg
>
> If that does not work the video is under jplilycomet.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack

[Paul Hilton]

I considered and discarded the original idea I had for the BT-7's steering.  I 
have a rather well made ball screw that I had intended to use for this purpose. 
 The ball screw, from the motor end, would seem to work well.  Friction is VERY 
low, good for not overworking the motor.  The problem shows up when something 
hits the front wheels.  There is a significant mechanical advantage (at least 
in the BT-7) from the wheel end.  This means that if your motor is trying to go 
one way and your front wheels hit a rock, driving your wheels the other way, 
you are going to blow a fuse.  An Acme screw might fare better, don't know how 
much.  I think the better option would be a worm screw setup like a wiper or 
window or sunroof motor.  In this setup, the gear can not work upon the worm, 
thus effecting a sort of stop.  Of course, if a large enough force is applied 
to the gear, it will destroy the drive.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Derek Engelhaupt 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:48 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack


  Has anyone considered using something like a lead screw connected to a motor 
for steering instead?  I just bought one of these to do my traverse in the 
Sturmtiger.  I bought an extra one to play with.  I would think that it would 
work well for steering and be very robust as it's already welded to an aluminum 
plate.

  Derek
  T065


  On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 11:38 PM, Paul Hilton  wrote:


Now that, Steve is good intel!  I am VERY interested in the TLE 5206-2
driver.  I am ready for the "Paul Harvey", (the rest of the story) whenever
you would like to post it.  A simple (very simple) diagram showing what to
connect where and perhaps a socket part number would be useful.  I have a
whopping $8 burning a hole in my pocket!

Paul H.

- Original Message -
From: "Steve Tyng" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 4:47 PM
Subject: [TANKS] High Power Servo Hack


>
> I've renamed the subject of this thread back to "High Power Servo
> Hack" so lets not try to hijack it again (do not change the subject on
> these emails).
>
>
> Now back to the topic at hand.
>
> There's been discussion on making custom h-bridges in lieu of the
> commercial boards available.  I've found the following integrated h-
> bridge modules currently listed on eBay.
>
>
> 
http://cgi.ebay.com/MPM3002-Motorola-H-BRIDGE-MOSFET-POWER-MODULE_W0QQitemZ200308339465QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
>
> 
http://cgi.ebay.com/1ea-ST-L6203-6203-Full-H-Bridge-Motor-DRIVER-IC_W0QQitemZ400020364797QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
>
> These are obsolescent out-of-production h-bridge modules (include all
> four driver FETS) that could be utilized (with a small amount of
> additional components) to drive external motors (up to the current
> rating of the module) and can be driven by the hacked servo.
>
> An interesting and current (in production) h-bridge device is the
> Infineon TLE5206-2 driver.  This is a basic h-bridge driver that
> includes over amperage and temp sensing built-in and only requires one
> external capacitor.  It can handle a continuous 5amps which should be
> plenty for a steering servo setup.  DigiKey has these at under $8US in
> single quantities.
>
>
> 
http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/tle5206-2_20010619.pdf?folderId=db3a304412b407950112b43820d56a4a&fileId=db3a304412b407950112b438215b6a4b
>
> If you review the datasheets for these devices you will find all the
> info needed to utilize them in the hacked servo project under
> discussion.
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
>







  

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[TANKS] Re: Daimler tests

[Paul Hilton]

Looks nice, Chrys!  Crazy how you manage to build your vehicles so fast!

Paul H.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 2:49 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Daimler tests


  National Holiday here today and the Daimler was tested.  The upper hull and 
turret are only painted with a Khaki primer. IT's kind of oversized for a 
1:6th, and I doubt she'll ever be armed with a 0.40 marker, really, but the 
test results are as follows:  12 Kgrs heavy, 25 cm diam. wheels, two 18 V 960 
DeWalt drills, plenty of torque and speed about 20 kms/h. Note that this grass 
is kind of slippery and still traction is perfect. WIth the 1:6th scale, 20 cm 
diam, wheels you'd have monster torque and the battling speed you need (though 
this can be adjusted on digital RCs).
  Enjoy! The desert Rat blends nicely with the landscape.
  
http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s30/ChrysKane/DAIMLER%201%206TH/?action=view¤t=P3240220.flv
  
http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s30/ChrysKane/DAIMLER%201%206TH/?action=view¤t=P3240221.flv

  more videos, with drfits, later.
  Chrys

  

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[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack

[Paul Hilton]

Now that, Steve is good intel!  I am VERY interested in the TLE 5206-2 
driver.  I am ready for the "Paul Harvey", (the rest of the story) whenever 
you would like to post it.  A simple (very simple) diagram showing what to 
connect where and perhaps a socket part number would be useful.  I have a 
whopping $8 burning a hole in my pocket!

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Steve Tyng" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 4:47 PM
Subject: [TANKS] High Power Servo Hack


>
> I've renamed the subject of this thread back to "High Power Servo
> Hack" so lets not try to hijack it again (do not change the subject on
> these emails).
>
>
> Now back to the topic at hand.
>
> There's been discussion on making custom h-bridges in lieu of the
> commercial boards available.  I've found the following integrated h-
> bridge modules currently listed on eBay.
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/MPM3002-Motorola-H-BRIDGE-MOSFET-POWER-MODULE_W0QQitemZ200308339465QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/1ea-ST-L6203-6203-Full-H-Bridge-Motor-DRIVER-IC_W0QQitemZ400020364797QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
>
> These are obsolescent out-of-production h-bridge modules (include all
> four driver FETS) that could be utilized (with a small amount of
> additional components) to drive external motors (up to the current
> rating of the module) and can be driven by the hacked servo.
>
> An interesting and current (in production) h-bridge device is the
> Infineon TLE5206-2 driver.  This is a basic h-bridge driver that
> includes over amperage and temp sensing built-in and only requires one
> external capacitor.  It can handle a continuous 5amps which should be
> plenty for a steering servo setup.  DigiKey has these at under $8US in
> single quantities.
>
> 
> http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/tle5206-2_20010619.pdf?folderId=db3a304412b407950112b43820d56a4a&fileId=db3a304412b407950112b438215b6a4b
>
> If you review the datasheets for these devices you will find all the
> info needed to utilize them in the hacked servo project under
> discussion.
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.

[Paul Hilton]

Ok, so I tried it.  Vex transmitter to Vex receiver to Vex signal splitter 
to Futaba S3003 servo.  The signal (white) wire on the tab end of the Futaba 
plug will go toward the tabbed slot in the Vex signal splitter.  This will 
be on the outside edge of the signal splitter.  All channels but 3 worked as 
expected.  Channel 3 centered the servo then I had no response.  I'll try my 
other Vex transmitter tomorrow.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Hilton" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 1:51 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.


>
> Got it, Frank.  I'll give it a go.  I feel better knowing that I have a
> 50/50 chance of getting it right with a very small chance of smoking 
> either
> item.
>
> Paul H.
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Frank Pittelli" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 1:54 PM
> Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.
>
>
>>
>> Paul Hilton wrote:
>>> Got the headers today!  Thanks Frank!  You were right about the spacing.
>>> As
>>> Ron pointed out, there is a tab on the signal side of the Futaba servo
>>> that
>>> keeps it from being inserted.  I'll remove the tab today.  I don't know
>>> if
>>> the pin arrangement is the same.
>>
>> Most servos now use the Futaba standard which is:
>>
>> Signal - the "inside" pin, closest to RX circuit
>> (Futaba = white, Hitec = Yellow, Airtronics = Blue)
>>
>> +V - center pin on connector
>> (All brands = Red)
>>
>> GND- the "outside" pin, closest to edge of RX board
>> (All brands = Black)
>>
>> With that arrangement, if you reverse the connector accidentally
>> (reversing Signal and GND), the servo will either sit still or chatter a
>> little, but you won't blow the RX or servo.  If, however, you reverse +V
>> and GND wires, the magic smoke will be released from either the RX,
>> servo or, for those lucky few, both.
>>
>> Frank P.
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>>
>
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.

[Paul Hilton]

Got it, Frank.  I'll give it a go.  I feel better knowing that I have a 
50/50 chance of getting it right with a very small chance of smoking either 
item.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Frank Pittelli" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 1:54 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.


>
> Paul Hilton wrote:
>> Got the headers today!  Thanks Frank!  You were right about the spacing. 
>> As
>> Ron pointed out, there is a tab on the signal side of the Futaba servo 
>> that
>> keeps it from being inserted.  I'll remove the tab today.  I don't know 
>> if
>> the pin arrangement is the same.
>
> Most servos now use the Futaba standard which is:
>
> Signal - the "inside" pin, closest to RX circuit
> (Futaba = white, Hitec = Yellow, Airtronics = Blue)
>
> +V - center pin on connector
> (All brands = Red)
>
> GND- the "outside" pin, closest to edge of RX board
> (All brands = Black)
>
> With that arrangement, if you reverse the connector accidentally
> (reversing Signal and GND), the servo will either sit still or chatter a
> little, but you won't blow the RX or servo.  If, however, you reverse +V
> and GND wires, the magic smoke will be released from either the RX,
> servo or, for those lucky few, both.
>
> Frank P.
>
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.

[Paul Hilton]

Got the headers today!  Thanks Frank!  You were right about the spacing.  As 
Ron pointed out, there is a tab on the signal side of the Futaba servo that 
keeps it from being inserted.  I'll remove the tab today.  I don't know if 
the pin arrangement is the same.  Right now I can only assume that it is. 
The battery connection seems near enough right, the only real difference is 
that the retention clip arrangement seems to be backwards for the Vex.  I'll 
update later.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Frank Pittelli" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 11:30 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.


>
> Paul Hilton wrote:
>> Maybe Frank, if the spacing is right.
>
> Servo cables (and probably the Vex splitter) use 0.100" pin spacing,
> which is one of the most common header spacing.  If you need a couple
> headers, send me your snail mail address privately and I'll drop some in
> the mail today.
>
> Frank P.
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.

[Paul Hilton]

Thanks Ron, but are you sure of the spacing?  

Paul H. 

- Original Message - 
From: "Ron" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 9:45 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.


> 
> Paul,
> 
> A three pin header will work as a gender changer. They are available 
> from various electronic supply outlets and some robotics places also 
> carry them. I am not sure where I got mine, but Pololu sells them as 
> breakaway strips of 100 so you can break off 3 at a time.
> 
> Ron
> 
> Paul Hilton wrote:
>> Just got my Vex signal splitter today.  I'm not happy.  The Vex 
>> servo's seem to have male plugs, unlike the Futaba servo's that have 
>> female ones.  Help, guys.
>>  
>> Paul H.
>>
>> >
> 
> > 
>


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[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.

[Paul Hilton]

Maybe Frank, if the spacing is right.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Frank Pittelli" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 9:48 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.


> 
> Paul Hilton wrote:
>> Just got my Vex signal splitter today.  I'm not happy.  The Vex servo's 
>> seem to have male plugs, unlike the Futaba servo's that have female 
>> ones.  Help, guys.
> 
> Can you use a 3 pin header as a converter?
> 
> Frank P.
> 
> > 
>


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[TANKS] Vex signal splitter.

[Paul Hilton]

Just got my Vex signal splitter today.  I'm not happy.  The Vex servo's seem to 
have male plugs, unlike the Futaba servo's that have female ones.  Help, guys.

Paul H.
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[TANKS] Solid state relays.

[Paul Hilton]

So I was surfing ebay for SSR's and discovered that there are AC and DC types.  
I had expected there to be a difference between inputs, and assumed that when 
called out, that an AC or DC relay referred to the input.  I am pretty familiar 
with the old school electro-mechanical relays and an AC or DC callout describes 
the operating coil.  Seems this isn't so with SSR's.  The very first ones that 
I actually read the tech sheets on can have an AC or DC input, the output is 
described as AC only.  Can an AC SSR be used for DC outputs?

Paul H.
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[TANKS] A bit of progress.

[Paul Hilton]

My Sabertooth 2x25 arrived in the mail yesterday.  I'll try to test it out with 
my newly completed motor/transmission assembly by this weekend.  I'm still not 
sure if I'll go for wheeled or tracked mode on the BT-7 yet.  Both present 
problems.  Tracks might be a bit easier, if I go for wheels I'll have to drive 
the rear wheels and build a monster servo to steer with.  The tracks, as I see 
them now, will involve drilling and tapping several hundred small holes.  Oy, 
vey.

Paul H.  
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[TANKS] Re: Transmission

[Paul Hilton]

Point taken.  Still, I wonder if such a transmission could handle a 40+ pound 
vehicle.  Or, as an alternative, serve as a basis for a sturdier copy.  There 
is one on EBay fairly cheap.  Though, if someone had one already it would be 
nice to see pics of how they are constructed.  might save a few bucks.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Clark 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 1:10 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: Transmission


  My Monster GT weighs close to 15 pounds.

  Which is about 5 pounds less then what the batteries and motors weigh in my 
Sherman.


  On Thu, Mar 12, 2009 at 12:57 PM, Thomas Lum  wrote:

As long as your tank weighs 3 pounds...


On Mar 12, 2009, at 11:54 AM, Paul Hilton wrote:


  I wonder if one of these:

  http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTZH8&P=7

  would work for a single, non-reversing motor.  I still have that 
Kollmorgen!

  Paul H.












  

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[TANKS] Transmission

[Paul Hilton]

I wonder if one of these:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTZH8&P=7

would work for a single, non-reversing motor.  I still have that Kollmorgen!

Paul H.
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[TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx

[Paul Hilton]

Kind of what I figured it would look like, George.  The way I figure it, you 
could simply solder on the crystal of your choice, reinstall it in the plastic 
case, and run with it.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: George MacGillis 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 7:09 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx


  OK, Well I took one apart. Not easy to do, anyway inside is a crystal 
soldered onto a pair of pins. No reason why you couldn't do the same thing with 
another crystal.
  The one I took apart was the 89 that came with the transmitter.


  -- 
  George MacGillis USCG ret.
  Portland, OR
  tinsmi...@gmail.com
  PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442
  08' Harley Ultra Classic


  



--






--






--




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[TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx

[Paul Hilton]

Yup, there is always a group of folks fiddling with things somewhere, just got 
to find them!  Thanks, Andy!

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Andy Schwartz 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 7:33 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx


  Guys I cant stress this enough.  Everything your trying to discover has 
already been covered at the Vex Modders Yahoo group:

  http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/VEX_Modders/

  You can save yourselves a lot of time by joining up and doing some reading 
there.

  Andy
- Original Message - 
From: George MacGillis 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 7:09 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx


OK, Well I took one apart. Not easy to do, anyway inside is a crystal 
soldered onto a pair of pins. No reason why you couldn't do the same thing with 
another crystal.
The one I took apart was the 89 that came with the transmitter.


-- 
George MacGillis USCG ret.
Portland, OR
tinsmi...@gmail.com
PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442
08' Harley Ultra Classic

























  

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[TANKS] Re: Stick ratchet.

[Paul Hilton]

Heh, guess I don't need to open it now.  Just found this:

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57745

Good pics of the inside bits, including the ratchet.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Hilton 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 1:08 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Stick ratchet.


  I'm going to disassemble one of the VEX transmitters I have to see if 
something like this:

  http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?&I=HRCM8314&P=0

  can be added.  I suspect that the joysticks are "standard" and only lack the 
spring.  I'll take a look.

  Paul H.

  

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[TANKS] Re: Stick ratchet.

[Paul Hilton]

Just found this:

https://ntxbg.org/KnowledgeBase/?category_id=45&menuaction=phpbrain.uikb.view_article&art_id=22&printer=1

Seems to confirm that a ratchet can be added.

Paul H.
  - Original Message ----- 
  From: Paul Hilton 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 1:08 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Stick ratchet.


  I'm going to disassemble one of the VEX transmitters I have to see if 
something like this:

  http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?&I=HRCM8314&P=0

  can be added.  I suspect that the joysticks are "standard" and only lack the 
spring.  I'll take a look.

  Paul H.

  

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[TANKS] Stick ratchet.

[Paul Hilton]

I'm going to disassemble one of the VEX transmitters I have to see if something 
like this:

http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?&I=HRCM8314&P=0

can be added.  I suspect that the joysticks are "standard" and only lack the 
spring.  I'll take a look.

Paul H.
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[TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx

[Paul Hilton]

George, one thing you might could do with your extra "A" kits, you could 
replace the crystals with ones for frequencies that you don't have.  

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: George MacGillis 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 2:53 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx


  You can also buy Crystal sets for the VEX on Ebay. I have no idea what I'm 
going to do with 6 kit A crystal sets, but I also have 2 splitters. I got the 
crystals for $8. delivered.
  Now that I have the radio, all I need is to figure out how to build a tank. 
And then after I do, who will I battle with? I live in Portland, OR.

  George


  On Mon, Mar 9, 2009 at 11:07 PM, Paul Hilton  wrote:

Also, through searching for cheap VEX things that may be useful, I've found 
that there is a 2.4GHz add on for the transmitter planned.  I've found nothing 
on prices, though.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Hilton 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 1:20 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx


  Now that's a good call, George.  Not being familiar with VEX, I had no 
idea such a thing existed.  I have a VEX receiver, so I would just need the 
signal splitter and a few extra crystal sets.  Here is a linky for everyone 
else:

  http://www.vexrobotics.com/vex-robotics-signal-splitter.shtml

  Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: George MacGillis 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 5:36 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx


Why no just use the Vex receiver, $30. from them and then everything 
works right. I bought the Signal Splitter from the also and everything will be 
going in a Panther I'm building.



 
On Mon, Mar 9, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Ron  wrote:


  I have successfully used this receiver in a robot with a VEX
  transmitter. The VEX crystals do not fit this receiver, so you will 
have
  to but receiver crystals from the same location. Here is the URL:
  http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-GWR6NII75F.html

  Ron


  Paul Hilton wrote:
  > So, does anyone have a source for 75MHz receivers that are 
compatible
  > with those VEX transmitters everyone seems to have bought?  Seems 
like
  > all the available R127DF Futabas have been snatched up, the 75MHz 
ones
  > anyway.
  >
  > Paul H.
  >
  > >

  PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442
  08' Harley Ultra Classic




  -- 
  George MacGillis USCG ret.
  Portland, OR
  tinsmi...@gmail.com
  PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442
  08' Harley Ultra Classic

  

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[TANKS] Re: Is this a good deal?

[Paul Hilton]

True, Derek.  I missed the $9.99 boat myself.  I picked the two that I have 
up from Ebay for $22.  There are a LOT of these things out there.

http://cgi.ebay.com/VEX-ROBOTICS-TRANSMITTER-AND-RECEIVER-ADDS-A-2ND-USER_W0QQitemZ220374695682QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item220374695682&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Crystals can also be had for cheap.  They are a little thick and clunky (the 
transmitters), but are solid and well made.  The 5th and 6th channels are on 
the bottom and consist of high/low buttons that can be used trigger-like 
with no mods.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Derek Engelhaupt" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 12:04 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Is this a good deal?


>
> I looked on the website folks were getting the VEX's and I think they
> are sold out.  The part number posted no longer shows up and a search
> on VEX yielded nothing.
>
> Derek
>
> On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 10:56 AM, George MacGillis  
> wrote:
>> Or how about the Vex, So here is the break down of cost (Vex Radio $10.)
>> (Crystal kit A $2.81) (Signal Splitter $23.91)
>>
>> Total $36.72 not counting shipping, and you still have money left over 
>> for
>> servos.
>>
>>
>>
>> George MacGillis USCG ret.
>> Portland, OR
>> tinsmi...@gmail.com
>> PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442
>> 08' Harley Ultra Classic
>>
>> >
>>
>
> >
>
> 



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[TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx

[Paul Hilton]

Also, through searching for cheap VEX things that may be useful, I've found 
that there is a 2.4GHz add on for the transmitter planned.  I've found nothing 
on prices, though.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Hilton 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 1:20 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx


  Now that's a good call, George.  Not being familiar with VEX, I had no idea 
such a thing existed.  I have a VEX receiver, so I would just need the signal 
splitter and a few extra crystal sets.  Here is a linky for everyone else:

  http://www.vexrobotics.com/vex-robotics-signal-splitter.shtml

  Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: George MacGillis 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 5:36 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx


Why no just use the Vex receiver, $30. from them and then everything works 
right. I bought the Signal Splitter from the also and everything will be going 
in a Panther I'm building.



 
On Mon, Mar 9, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Ron  wrote:


  I have successfully used this receiver in a robot with a VEX
  transmitter. The VEX crystals do not fit this receiver, so you will have
  to but receiver crystals from the same location. Here is the URL:
  http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-GWR6NII75F.html

      Ron


  Paul Hilton wrote:
  > So, does anyone have a source for 75MHz receivers that are compatible
  > with those VEX transmitters everyone seems to have bought?  Seems like
  > all the available R127DF Futabas have been snatched up, the 75MHz ones
  > anyway.
  >
  > Paul H.
  >
  > >

  PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442
  08' Harley Ultra Classic
  

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[TANKS] Re: 1/16th

[Paul Hilton]

My wife bought a pair of tanks for me Christmas time from these guys:

http://www.raidentech.com/rctank.html

Availability seems hit or miss.  Prices are good, though.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "josh" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 7:11 PM
Subject: [TANKS] 1/16th


> 
> Hi, I'm wondering if anyone can help me? Myself and a few friends from
> Uni have decided to buy a 1/16 infrared battle tank apiece for a bit
> of fun. Two of them have settled on the Tiger and T34 models, myself
> and the remainder of the group are wondering if there are any
> different models of tank in that scale with the infrared capability. I
> am just wondering if any of you guys know a place where I might be
> able to find such tanks. Anyway any help you can give would be
> appreciated. Josh : )
> 
> > 
>


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[TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx

[Paul Hilton]

Now that's a good call, George.  Not being familiar with VEX, I had no idea 
such a thing existed.  I have a VEX receiver, so I would just need the signal 
splitter and a few extra crystal sets.  Here is a linky for everyone else:

http://www.vexrobotics.com/vex-robotics-signal-splitter.shtml

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: George MacGillis 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 5:36 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx


  Why no just use the Vex receiver, $30. from them and then everything works 
right. I bought the Signal Splitter from the also and everything will be going 
in a Panther I'm building.



   
  On Mon, Mar 9, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Ron  wrote:


I have successfully used this receiver in a robot with a VEX
transmitter. The VEX crystals do not fit this receiver, so you will have
to but receiver crystals from the same location. Here is the URL:
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-GWR6NII75F.html

Ron


Paul Hilton wrote:
> So, does anyone have a source for 75MHz receivers that are compatible
> with those VEX transmitters everyone seems to have bought?  Seems like
> all the available R127DF Futabas have been snatched up, the 75MHz ones
> anyway.
>
> Paul H.
>
> >

PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442
08' Harley Ultra Classic



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[TANKS] VEX compatible Rx

[Paul Hilton]

So, does anyone have a source for 75MHz receivers that are compatible with 
those VEX transmitters everyone seems to have bought?  Seems like all the 
available R127DF Futabas have been snatched up, the 75MHz ones anyway.

Paul H. 
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[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack

[Paul Hilton]

Steve,

The SSR option looks quite interesting.  How would this be coupled with the 
hacked servo?  I've only seen schematics for H-bridges, how do they 
interconnect?

I may in fact go with the commercial H-bridge.  At best I would save $20 
building a MOSFET H-bridge, even less building one using SSRs.  We'll see. 



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[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack

[Paul Hilton]

OK Steve, sometimes I'm a bit 'thick" when it comes to electronics.  I have 
zero experience with H-bridges and MOSFETs in general.  Are you saying that 
this will do the job?

http://130.94.182.150/servo.jpg

Seems vastly overpowered for my app, but I'll give it a go.  I assume that 
the ".2" beside the capacitor is .2 micro farads.  I also wonder about 
substitutions for the MOSFETs.  If I used smaller MOSFETs, would it all 
still work?  What about 2 N-channel and 2 P-channel, rather than 2 and 4? 
And what of voltage, is this not an issue? Seems kind of important to me. 
And why build a 38 amp H-bridge, then call out "three good gearmotors for 
steering servos"  none of which draws more than 750 mA, like these guys have 
done?  Seems like a bit of overkill.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Steve Tyng" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 11:15 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack


>
> Paul,
>
> The Pololu board would not work to "amplify" the current capability of
> a standard r/c servo.  The Pololu board is a bit to intelligent in
> that it has it's own processing capability and determines motor speed
> and direction via separate PWM and direction signals.  Though the
> Pololu board has an h-bridge the board itself is not controlled like a
> typical h-bridge circuit.  It is meant to be controlled be a
> microprocessor and not as something as crude as a hacked hobby servo.
>
> The hack we are discussing replaces the internal and very basic h-
> bridge circuit of the servo with an external higher capacity circuit.
> This h-bridge circuit requires a PWM speed signal on one of either two
> inputs unlike the Pololu board which has only one input for the PWM
> speed signal and a second to determine direction.
>
> Simple h-bridge boards a few and far between.  The Tecel was one,
> RobotPower simple h-bridge is the only other commercial h-bridge that
> I can recall offhand.  Most servo hacks off this type I've read about
> usually involves making a custom h-bridge board, which actually isn't
> very difficult to do.  Here's a link for one such project.
>
> http://130.94.182.150/mowers.htm (scroll down to "CONVERTING STANDARD
> R/C SERVOS INTO MONSTER SERVOS")
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack

[Paul Hilton]

Thanks Steve,

I have a pair of these:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-316/12VDC-SUNROOF-MOTOR/1.html

that I may be able to adapt, the shafts are a bit on the short side but I 
may be able to stick a slotted arm on.  If not, I'll look at the 24V Mabuchi 
gearmotor you have listed.

I also wonder if there might be a cheaper alternative to the motor 
controller you mention.  One might be:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/755

I'm sure that if I look hard enough, I could find others.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Steve Tyng" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 12:54 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack


>
> Paul,
>
> I have not personally tried this yet but I see no reason why it will
> not work well.  Some possible gearmotors for steering our armoured
> cars could be:
>
> http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981&item=5-1634&catname=electric
> http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981&item=5-1664&catname=electric
> http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981&item=5-1257&catname=electric
> http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981&item=5-1685&catname=electric
> http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981&item=5-1693&catname=electric
>
>
> PF,
>
> The Tecel board seams to be no longer available that's why I listed
> the Robot-Power alternative.  I've spoken with the owner of Robot
> Power and he stated that his Simple H-Bridge is being used to make
> high power servos by others.
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 27, 11:55 am, pixelFiend  wrote:
>> I've been wanting to do this as well for a project. Every time I look 
>> into
>> it however, I keep running up against the Tecel website, which turns up 
>> an
>> "access forbidden" message on the D200. I make a note to call or look 
>> into
>> it further, then other things come up.
>> I have several motors I could use for this— does anyone have any info on
>> Tecel? Are they still a going concern, or have you bought from them?
>>
>> PF
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 11:38 AM, Paul Hilton  wrote:
>>
>> > Steve, you must have been reading my mind. I was just thinking about a
>> > solution for the BT-7's steering. Have you tried this? Seems like a 
>> > good
>> > choice for large wheeled vehicles!
>>
>> > Paul H.
>> > - Original Message -
>> > From: "Steve Tyng" 
>> > To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
>> > Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 10:03 AM
>> > Subject: [TANKS] High Power Servo Hack
>>
>> > > Here's an interesting article on modifying a standard servo to drive
>> > > an external gearmotor. Basically the geartrain is removed from the
>> > > servo which is then used as a position sensor for the gearmotor. The
>> > > servo electronics are used to drive an offboard h-bridge.
>>
>> > >http://www.fieroaddiction.com/servo.html
>>
>> > > An h-bridge that would work well with this setup (the Tecel D200
>> > > referenced doesn't appear to be available anymore).
>>
>> > >http://www.robotpower.com/products/simple-h_info.html
>>
>> > > Steve Tyng
>>
>> --
>> PF
>>
>> astromechbuilder.com
>> astromechfactory.com
> >
>
> 



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[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack

[Paul Hilton]

Steve, you must have been reading my mind.  I was just thinking about a 
solution for the BT-7's steering.  Have you tried this?  Seems like a good 
choice for large wheeled vehicles!

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Steve Tyng" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 10:03 AM
Subject: [TANKS] High Power Servo Hack


>
> Here's an interesting article on modifying a standard servo to drive
> an external gearmotor.  Basically the geartrain is removed from the
> servo which is then used as a position sensor for the gearmotor.  The
> servo electronics are used to drive an offboard h-bridge.
>
> http://www.fieroaddiction.com/servo.html
>
> An h-bridge that would work well with this setup (the Tecel D200
> referenced doesn't appear to be available anymore).
>
> http://www.robotpower.com/products/simple-h_info.html
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: for anyone thinking of a multi axel vehicle, this might (not) be for you

[Paul Hilton]

You might could try one of these:

http://www.mark-1-tank.co.uk/puma.html

I'm not sure what the wheel diameter would be in 1/6th scale, I think perhaps 
8".

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 8:47 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] for anyone thinking of a multi axel vehicle, this might 
(not) be for you


  i was looking through this 4 x 4 site and came across someone building a 10 x 
10 truck. i am only up to page 9 and will be reading some more on this build. 
the truck's body is very nice looking, but all the little suspension arms and 
such isn't for me (and possibly for others wanting to use such a vehicle on the 
battle field). i was looking through the site to see if anyone was working with 
the 10" wheels you can buy at harbor freight but didn't see anything as of yet.

  http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10076 

  Chris,
  Odyssey Slipways


--
  A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!

  

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{Disarmed} Re: [TANKS] Re: Casting treads question

[Paul Hilton]

Well Chris, I've found that I have many of the components needed for a spin 
caster already.  About all I lack are the motor and speed controller.  So, in 
light of this revelation, I'm going to build a spin caster.  Here are a few of 
the things I've been looking at:

http://www.geocities.com/eastpac01/index.html

http://www.gizmology.net/stovetop.htm

http://www.hobbycast.net/video.htm

http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Stories/030.1/index.html

http://www.boatmodelling.com/content/view/57/44/lang,en/

http://www.smooth-on.com/search.php?zoom_query=molds

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/links.html

http://www.smooth-on.com/gallery.php?galleryid=424

http://www.metalcastingzone.com/general-casting-videos/

http://130.94.182.150/foundry.htm

http://www.tekcast.com/index.php?cPath=16&gclid=CJfRtty86pgCFSPaDAodR3wQ1w

http://www.myhomefoundry.com/ezine/32June_06.html

http://theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/050/index.html

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9069k2/=ohk2m

There are more, many more in fact.  The first is the most important to me.  A 
few of the others pertain mainly to casting in resin, but show mold (mould) 
construction as being fairly straight forward.  My goal is to construct a 
workable set of BT-7 tracks from tin or zinc alloy, zinc being the better 
choice.  Although it melts at a higher temp, some zinc alloys can be nearly as 
strong as cast iron.  It's also much cheaper.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 3:12 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: Casting treads question


  In a message dated 2/18/2009 10:42:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
phil...@defnet.com writes:
One day, I would like to give one of these a go:

http://www.granthams.com/Spincast/

Gonna stick with gravity for now.  Not ready for another project just now.

Paul H.
  you don't have to get that fancy if you want one.

  you can make one simpler than that. pretty much make one like an upright disc 
sander, but just secure your molds to the disc rather than sand paper. so build 
it onto a bench. and for a splat shield, an old cardboard box will do, just cut 
out the top and bottom of the box and set it over the spinner, give the motor 
some juice for a second or two (just to get it spinning), then pour

  Chris,
  Odyssey Slipways


--
  A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!

  

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[TANKS] Re: Casting treads question

[Paul Hilton]

One day, I would like to give one of these a go:

http://www.granthams.com/Spincast/

Gonna stick with gravity for now.  Not ready for another project just now.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Retired Rider" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 6:19 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Casting treads question


> 
> I would also like to know about the mold your going to use for the
> treads, I cast items using Lead Free Pewter. And I mix in pure tin to
> make it a bit harder. Only problem I have is not being able to make
> the mold, maainly because I don't know how! The Tin will be harder
> then the zinc and will hold up better.
> 
> George
> 
> On Feb 17, 1:49 pm, "Paul Hilton"  wrote:
>> I'm going to try tin alloy. Perhaps later I'll give zinc a try.
>>
>> Paul H.
>>
>>
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: AES
>> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 4:37 PM
>> Subject: [TANKS] Casting treads question
>>
>> What is the recomended material to cast treads from?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Andy--- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
> > 
> 
>


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[TANKS] Re: Casting treads question

[Paul Hilton]

I want to use silicone if I can find some in the right temp range that's 
cheap enough.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Retired Rider" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 6:19 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Casting treads question


>
> I would also like to know about the mold your going to use for the
> treads, I cast items using Lead Free Pewter. And I mix in pure tin to
> make it a bit harder. Only problem I have is not being able to make
> the mold, maainly because I don't know how! The Tin will be harder
> then the zinc and will hold up better.
>
> George
>
> On Feb 17, 1:49 pm, "Paul Hilton"  wrote:
>> I'm going to try tin alloy. Perhaps later I'll give zinc a try.
>>
>> Paul H.
>>
>>
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: AES
>> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 4:37 PM
>> Subject: [TANKS] Casting treads question
>>
>> What is the recomended material to cast treads from?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Andy--- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
> >
>
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Casting treads question

[Paul Hilton]

I'm going to try tin alloy.  Perhaps later I'll give zinc a try.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: AES 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 4:37 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Casting treads question


  What is the recomended material to cast treads from?

  Thanks

  Andy-- 


  

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[TANKS] Re: 0.40s?

[Paul Hilton]

I ordered these for Chrys several months ago.  I suspect that he will want 
these same ones.

http://www.blow-gun.com/storefront/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TZSI&Category_Code=8

Though he may want these or something similar:

http://www.rap4.com/paintball/os/paintball-projectiles-caliber-c-23_103.html

There is a lot to be said for a single color paintball.  Maybe it's just me, 
but I have a hard time seeing random colors.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Phil" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 11:01 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: 0.40s?


>
> I am using .40 cal splatmatic for a .40 cal splatmatic marker. This is
> the product but I didn't get it from Amazon:
>
> http://www.shopping.com/xPO-Splatmatic_Flying_Colors_1000ct_Airsoft_Paintballs_40_Cal_Assorted
>
> I don't think I got it from RAP4, they do single-colour ones and I
> thuoght I'd go with the splatmatic product.
>
> I found the problem with many shops was that they wouldn't ship
> outside the US. The p'balls csot about $35 as I recall and the whole
> thing was $55 or so inc postage. I can find out where I got it from if
> you like, Chrys, but I'll have to hunt through my paperwork so will
> take a little while.
>
> I don't need any more at the moment.
>
> I have to say I'd fit a .43 or better .68 cal pistol if I did it now, .
> 40 is difficult in Europe.
>
> Phil
>
> On Feb 4, 7:04 am, "Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos" 
> wrote:
>> Thanks Paul. I'll first try and see if I succeed with RAP4 and if they 
>> ship internationally. Hopefully, there won't be a problem.
>> Chrys
>>
>>
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Paul Hilton
>> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 7:50 AM
>> Subject: [TANKS] Re: 0.40s?
>>
>> Sure.
>>
>> Paul H.
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos
>> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 4:28 PM
>> Subject: [TANKS] 0.40s?
>>
>> Anybody out there willing to ship me 0.40 caliper paint later in March? 
>> about 2000 of them?
>> Thanks,
>> Chrys- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
> >
>
> 



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[TANKS] Re: 0.40s?

[Paul Hilton]

Sure.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 4:28 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] 0.40s?


  Anybody out there willing to ship me 0.40 caliper paint later in March?  
about 2000 of them?
  Thanks,
  Chrys

  

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[TANKS] Re: Turret traversing - circular electrical contacts

[Paul Hilton]

Yup, slip rings are expensive.  I've built a fair alternative using four 
ball bearing assemblies, two for each circuit.  Joe Sommer proposed using 
copper clad board etched in a circular pattern, coupled with carbon motor 
brushes.  Of late I have been eyeballing a toy that my daughter has.  It's a 
"ray gun" with several LED's on a rotating head.  In my mind, it must have 
some manner of slip ring assembly.  If only I can spirit the thing away 
without her noticing.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Andy Schwartz" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 8:22 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Turret traversing - circular electrical contacts


>
> We have explored this idea several times for our R2D2 robots.  About once 
> a
> year someone does a group buy of Slip rings which brings the price down to
> about $50 for a 24 wire slip ring.  A low cost alternative is to use the
> connectors for  a headphone jack.
>
>
> Andy
> - Original Message - 
> From: "HV" 
> To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
> Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 7:54 AM
> Subject: [TANKS] Re: Turret traversing - circular electrical contacts
>
>
>>
>> Yes it is called a slip ring, and they are expensive.
>> >
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: T-12 Conversion

[Paul Hilton]

Looks to me like the gun could traverse:

http://www.griffonmodel.com/uploadpic/Products/20088271654988351.jpg

This is a shot of a 1:35 scale model interior upgrade.  

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Thomas Lum" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: T-12 Conversion


> 
> Did the Brummbar have ay side to side barrel movement or was it only 1  
> axis (elevation)?
> 
> On Feb 1, 2009, at 4:18 AM, Marc wrote:
> 
>>
>>
>>
>> That is one gutted tank!
>> Looking forward to the result.
>>
>> >
> 
> 
> > 
>


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[TANKS] Re: Weight distribution.

[Paul Hilton]

Go with what ya got brother, go with what ya got.  You got it made, why not 
use it for a bit before throwing it away?  If it becomes an issue, you can 
always laminate!

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Aahz" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 3:25 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Weight distribution.


>
>I am continuing to work on my suspension and I'm a bit worried. The
> weight of this tank is a lot higher than I originally planned on, in
> excess of 200lbs if my estimates are correct. If the swing arms of my
> suspension are made of 16 gauge steel will they hold? The arms look like
> this
> http://www.slackratchet.com/T35/T-35%20Build%20Journal/slides/DSC00360%20(2).html
> and assembled the unit looks like this
> http://www.slackratchet.com/T35/T-35%20Build%20Journal/slides/sus.html
> Are 8 sets of these mounted on 3/4" axels going to hold the weight? At
> this point I think my plan is to try it and find out.
>
>
>
> Aahz.
> Real T35 suspension for comparison here.
> http://www.slackratchet.com/T35/T-35%20reference/slides/t35_3.html
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania

[Paul Hilton]

Yup, that is the one at Aberdeen.  At least that is the one I saw at 
Aberdeen, there may be more than one.  This one I actually touched.  One of 
my ANCOC classmates did a history paper on it, I helped him find it.  I'm 
not sure about the gun.  I am sure the vehicle I saw was identified as an 
M-18, not a T-87 or T-88 as the up gunned vehicle would have been.  Still a 
very interesting vehicle.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "SmithD" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 12:46 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania


>
> That looks like the one at Aberdeen. It has a 105mm howitzer. The correct
> gun is a high velocity 76mm (76.5?). They tested the 105mm but it shook 
> the
> tank to much for service. Less than 20 tons, 400+ h.p.,torsion bar
> suspension, hydraulic transmission. The luxury sports car of the tank 
> world
> . D. Smith
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 10:29 AM
> Subject: [TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania
>
>
>> The Hellcat would also be a simple US beast to replicate in 1:6th.
>> Attached.
>> Too bad I have 3 tanks and markers to maintain.
>>
>> Too many tanks and little time.
>> C
>>
>>
>> >
>>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.14/1920 - Release Date: 
> 1/27/2009
> 6:15 PM
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Check out www.goflyheli.com, Your one stop RC helicopter store!

[Paul Hilton]

Good find Chrys, they even have a 1/24th scale KV2!

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 1:39 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Check out www.goflyheli.com, Your one stop RC 
helicopter store!


>
> If you're looking for 1/16 tanks try this:
> http://www.bananahobby.com/electric-rc-tanks--airsoft-battle-tanks.html
> Very good prices for the quality you get.
> C
>
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania

[Paul Hilton]

No, the Hellcat was not the fastest.  The BT-7 could do about 60MPH.  Armor 
thickness was about the same but the M-18 had the BT-7 beat with a larger gun.  
The BT-7 did have a roof, however

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mike Måne 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 6:40 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania


  Wasn't the Hellcat the fastest tracked vehicle in the War? If so, you may 
need some powerful motors if you want to be that realistic.
  -


  On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 12:56 PM, Pureteenlard  
wrote:


No roof on the turret either . . .







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{Disarmed} Re: [TANKS] Check out www.goflyheli.com, Your one stop RC helicopter store!

[Paul Hilton]

Good find Chris, but I would check these guys out first:

http://www.raidentech.com/rctank.html

I assume that you are looking at 1/16th scale or 1/24th scale tanks.  

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 4:35 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Check out www.goflyheli.com, Your one stop RC helicopter 
store!


  Click here: www.goflyheli.com, Your one stop RC helicopter store! 

  Chris,
  Odyssey Slipways


--
  A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!

  

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[TANKS] Re: Marmon Harrington Tanks

[Paul Hilton]

The interwar period is packed with interesting vehicles.  Sadly, most are 
not allowed per The Rules.  Here is a fair starting point for research:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanks_(1919-1939)

This isn't intended to be all inclusive as there were thousands of designs.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Steve Tyng" 
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2009 11:20 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Marmon Harrington Tanks


>
> Here's a whole chapter of US tank production I knew nothing about
> until today, the Marmon Harrington tanks!
>
> http://www.overvalwagen.com/tanks.html
> http://www.jedsite.info/tanks-mike/mike/marmon-herrington_series/mh-series.html
> http://www.thedonovan.com/archives/2007/01/ohhhtay.html#007048
>
> I particularity like the MTLS-1GI4 model with it's two 37mm cannons
> and four 30cal machine guns!
>
> http://www.jedsite.info/tanks-mike/mike/marmon-herrington_series/mtls-1gi4/mtls1gi4-intro.html
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>
> >
> 



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[TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away

[Paul Hilton]

Not sure, Tom.  It could have been, Mr. Littlefield sure had a great "garage", 
and a full maintenance staff to boot.  Certainly a place that I would have 
liked to visit.  I had sent him several e-mails with no reply.  I had often 
wondered if he was ill.  Hell, even APG replied to my requests.

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Thomas Lum 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 1:34 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away


  Isn't his place where Mythbusters used the two tanks to pull apart the two 
phone books laced together?  I wondered who had that awesome of a "garage"
  Tom


  On Jan 12, 2009, at 1:24 PM, Paul Hilton wrote:


For those that haven't heard of Jacques Littlefield, here is a linky:

http://www.mishalov.com/littlefield-6jan07/

Paul H.
  - Original Message -
  From: Paul Hilton
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:44 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away


  Sad day indeed.  I enjoyed the episode of "Tank Overhaul" depicting the 
restoration of his Panther.  I hope the collection remains intact, though I 
don't know how it would.

  Paul H.
- Original Message -
From: Gregory Pwneror
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:27 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Jacques Littlefield has passed away


For those of you who don't know, Jacques Littlefield of the Littlefield 
military vehicle collection passed away on the 7th of January.
Littlefield had an extensive collection of military vehicles including 
a Sherman, a SCUD launcher and several Soviet era and WWII German pieces of 
armour.
I'm sure he will be greatly missed in many tank related communities.
I just thought I would let those who didn't know about it know.

-Gregory









  

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[TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away

[Paul Hilton]

For those that haven't heard of Jacques Littlefield, here is a linky:

http://www.mishalov.com/littlefield-6jan07/

Paul H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Hilton 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:44 AM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away


  Sad day indeed.  I enjoyed the episode of "Tank Overhaul" depicting the 
restoration of his Panther.  I hope the collection remains intact, though I 
don't know how it would.

  Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: Gregory Pwneror 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:27 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Jacques Littlefield has passed away


For those of you who don't know, Jacques Littlefield of the Littlefield 
military vehicle collection passed away on the 7th of January.
Littlefield had an extensive collection of military vehicles including a 
Sherman, a SCUD launcher and several Soviet era and WWII German pieces of 
armour.
I'm sure he will be greatly missed in many tank related communities.
I just thought I would let those who didn't know about it know.

-Gregory


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