Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fuses on power cords]

2004-01-08 Thread Mike Morris
The telling point it to measure the output power with none, then one,
then two uses in line.  I think you will be surprised at just how much
power even .7 of a volt costs you.  I remember seeing a Icom 22
go from 11w to 6w.

This power loss is why many radios have a diode connected in
reverse across the power leads - something designed to blow
the fuse when the radio is hooked up backwards yet keeping full
power out under normal conditions.

Mike WA6ILQ

At 01:05 AM 1/8/04 -0500, you wrote:

Yes,0.7 volts per side,1.4 total. Some radios wont like it but most I
have tried worked ok. 73,Lee
- Original Message -
From: JOHN MACKEY [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 1:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fuses on power cords]


  That's a good idea that I have done also, but it is 1.4v drop, not
.7v
 
  Lee Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   The protection diodes should have blown the fuses,shouldnt have
   damaged the radios unless too big a fuse was used. An old trick I
have
   used where the unknowing kept hooking things up reversed,was to
use a
   diode bridge inline- then the polarity wouldnt matter. Worked well
if
   you could live with the 0.7v drop,and its idiot proof ! Of
course,fuse
   both leads... 73,Lee,N3APP







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RE: [Repeater-Builder] CW ID info

2004-01-08 Thread Mike Morris
This is true - and still no FCC rule PREVENTS you from adding it.
I STILL like having every TX in a system have a unique ID for the
same reason as I said earlier: if someone is hearing one of my TXs
someplace it shouldn't be and they can catch the ID it tells me
which TX to look at.

Mike WA6ILQ

At 11:23 AM 1/7/04 -0500, you wrote:

The latest re-write of the FCC Part 97 rules do not dictate that you have
to add ANY /R, /L, or / anything to repeater or link transmitter
callsigns. Just a plain callsign is fine and less than 20 WPM if using CW
ID's ( Tone modulated FM in FM repeaters).

Ron
-WB8ERB-


-Original Message-
From: Don [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 6:02 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] CW ID info


I just had a old rack mount data Signal CWID-70  Re programmed with My call
, They forgot to put /R But I will use My controller for That.  I was
thinking of putting a 220 Link on My 440 repeater or a remote . Do I have
to ID That as /L  Or can it just be My call ?

PS Data Signal is no longer in business , But they still had a former
employee working for the New Company called Game Country in Albany Ga ,
that I got it re programmed and a Manual from.  so if anyone is still using
a Unit like this and needs info E-Mail and I will look in the Manual.

Thanks Don KA9QJG







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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Broken/ stuck slugs - was Fiberglass rod

2004-01-08 Thread Tedd Doda
On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 00:32:58 -0500, stephanieree wrote:

ive tried rubber bands next to the slug.

The only problem with rubber bands is that most are
square, and have a tendency to jump during the flat
spots. I've used thin O rings cut to size with great
success. Being round, they turn smoothly.


Tedd Doda, VE3TJD

Lazer Audio and Electronics
Baden, Ontario, Canada
Way to go Matt! (NASCAR #17)






 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Broken/ stuck slugs - was Fiberglass rod

2004-01-08 Thread Mike Morris

At 12:15 PM 1/7/04 -0500, you wrote:
 (The small hotel soaps work especially well. Don't us your wife's good
 dove) This process has worked well for me. Any other suggestions?
 
 Scott

Thanks for the Tip Scott  and we won't tell your wife where You got the
Hotel soap

Don KA9QJG

Some soaps harden after a while - and some doesn't.

I know that Ivory bar soap dries but doesn't turn to glue the
way that liquid dish soap does.  In my late fathers toolbox
there is still a half-bar of Ivory that he used to use for
lubricating wood screws before he'd twist them in... he'd just
drag the threads across the soap, stick them in the predrilled
hole and twist...  That bar of soap was new sometime in the
1940s and there's still half left.

As far as lubricating coil slugs I've used a drop of Scotch
Scotch Yellow-77 wire pulling compound - which you can get
at your local electrical distributor - sometimes referred to with
other names (one of the more polite ones is Gorilla Snot).
It dries to a very slick talcum-powder-like residue - something
that does not jam a slug at all..

Mike WA6ILQ

At 04:46 PM 1/7/04 -0600, you wrote:





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fiberglass rod

2004-01-08 Thread Tedd Doda
On Wed, 07 Jan 2004 11:37:57 -0500, Mike Perryman wrote:

Just one question.  Which gives up first...  the fiberglass rod, or the 
slug?  Breaking a slug can be a real pain in the hiney!!

Being only an 1/8 in diameter, you usually can't get enough
torque to damage the slug, unless you try and use a 14
pipe wrench on the dowel :)

The secret in using the fiberglass rod is the use of
the Dremel tool. I have a selection of small grinding
wheels which makes every conceivable shape possible.


Tedd Doda, VE3TJD

Lazer Audio and Electronics
Baden, Ontario, Canada
Way to go Matt! (NASCAR #17)






 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fuses on power cords

2004-01-08 Thread John Clark
 A competitor of ours wired a cement truck with a new Kenwood right to
 the battery with both leads (not fusing the negative lead). It lost the
 chassis ground, and the starter current went through the radio back to
 the battery. The radio was toast (literally).  Joe M.

I would agree that this is one of the main factors for fusing the ground. 
Remember you have a antenna that is grounded with a possibility of a ground 
difference. Use better than OEM fuse holders though, for I had a hum in my 
radio at full power that went away when I put real fuse holders on it.
I think it is safe to say that no ground fuse is necessary in vehicles as long 
as it is the ONLY ground (not mounted to metal and no antenna connected)

John - KI4AWK



 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] diddle sticks???

2004-01-08 Thread Adam T. Cately
   You could try MCM Electronics in Dayton OH for new parts, or Fair Radio
in Lima OH for surplus...

   - Adam - 

   

  




 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fiberglass rod

2004-01-08 Thread Tedd Doda
On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 12:04:20 -0500, Rogers, Ron wrote:

McMaster-Carr carries all sorts of Fiberglass rod material in various sizes.
An example is a 60 length of 1/4 rod for $2.25. Check out part no. 8543K59
on the McMaster Carr website if you are interested. 

8543K27 looks to be the 1/8 rod..thanks!

I've sent them an email to see if they can chop
them up into 12 pieces, to make shipping a little
easier.

The only thing that worries me is that they are
natural fiberglass, and may have a course grain.
The red ones I have here have a very fine grain and
are very easy to shape.

Thanks for the tip Ron


Tedd Doda, VE3TJD

Lazer Audio and Electronics
Baden, Ontario, Canada
Way to go Matt! (NASCAR #17)






 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] diddle sticks???

2004-01-08 Thread John Clark
If you need one for Motorola, they still sell them. About $7 with shipping and 
all. That's where I went for tuning my mitreks
If you get a younger sounding person on the phone, ask for a tuning 
screwdriver --they may not know 'diddle'!



 

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[Repeater-Builder] Cable Lengths and Connectors

2004-01-08 Thread John Clark
I am building notch filters for my 6m repeater project (out of 1 5/8 heliax)
The connecting cables between the filters are all 1/4 wavelength, per the 
design instructions.
The cable connecting the notch filters to the radio will need to have 
connectors in the line (to pass through the cabnet, etc) and be about one 
wavelength long.
Should I put the connectors at the 1/4 wavelength, or should I avoid putting 
connectors there? Does it matter?
To put it another way, where is the place of least loss to put a connector in a 
cable?
Should I use BNC, PL-259, or what?

John- KI4AWK



 

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: FREE 330 watt GE AMP

2004-01-08 Thread n3ezd
I didn't have a manual.  If you have one that you are willing to part 
with, I'm sure the new owner will be interested.
73, Mike  N3EZD

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 
   Did you give him the manual too? 
 
   Neil 
 
 
 n3ezd wrote:
  
  A new home for the amp has been found.
  73 Mike N3EZD
  
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n3ezd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  wrote:
   Free if you are fast enough,
   it's soon to be residing in the local landfill,
   GE 4EF4A3 Rev. A,
   330 watt, low band 42-54MHz,
   all three decks, plus metering panel,
   even has the directional coupler,
   was working when removed from service,
   also good for spare power supply parts if
   you have one of these amps on another band,
   no shipping,
   you must pick it up near Baltimore MD.
   Mike Dees  N3EZD





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] diddle sticks???

2004-01-08 Thread Neil McKie

  They might not not the term 'diddle' in your way of thinking ... 

  Neil 

John Clark wrote:
 
 If you need one for Motorola, they still sell them. About $7 with 
 shipping and all. That's where I went for tuning my mitreks.  If 
 you get a younger sounding person on the phone, ask for a tuning 
 screwdriver --they may not know 'diddle'! 
 




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Broken/ stuck slugs - was Fiberglass rod

2004-01-08 Thread Neil McKie

  Mike, 

  You are quite correct ... it's-snot funny ... 

  Neil 


Mike Morris wrote:
 
 At 12:15 PM 1/7/04 -0500, you wrote:
  (The small hotel soaps work especially well. Don't us your wife's 
  good dove) This process has worked well for me. Any other 
  suggestions?
  
  Scott
 
 Thanks for the Tip Scott  and we won't tell your wife where You got 
 the Hotel soap 
 
 Don KA9QJG
 
 Some soaps harden after a while - and some doesn't.
 
 I know that Ivory bar soap dries but doesn't turn to glue the
 way that liquid dish soap does.  In my late fathers toolbox
 there is still a half-bar of Ivory that he used to use for
 lubricating wood screws before he'd twist them in... he'd just
 drag the threads across the soap, stick them in the predrilled
 hole and twist...  That bar of soap was new sometime in the
 1940s and there's still half left.
 
 As far as lubricating coil slugs I've used a drop of Scotch
 Scotch Yellow-77 wire pulling compound - which you can get
 at your local electrical distributor - sometimes referred to with
 other names (one of the more polite ones is Gorilla Snot).
 It dries to a very slick talcum-powder-like residue - something
 that does not jam a slug at all..
 
 Mike WA6ILQ
 
 At 04:46 PM 1/7/04 -0600, you wrote:
 




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder]

2004-01-08 Thread Scott Zimmerman
You can try the phone company. I have had great success getting 1200' spools
of 5 pair cable. I tell them I am putting in a new home and need some wire
to bury with the electric cable. The only problem is you will need to do
this several times and do some splicing to get to your 3500'.

You might ask how much it is to buy a piece 3500' long. you may just be
surprised at the price. (good or bad!)

Scott

- Original Message - 
From: W3GFD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 12:24 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder]


 I am looking for about 3500 feet of surplus 4 pair direct burial telephone
cable for a remote base project. The 4 pairs is a minimum. If anyone knows
of any at a real good price please let me know. Thanks for your help.

 W3GFD





 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fiberglass rod

2004-01-08 Thread Rogers, Ron
Tedd:
The rods I have gotten from them before seem to be on the order of G10
Fiberglass which is fairly workable, at least for 1/4 tools and tuning
shafts. I have made a couple of screw driver tipped tools for tuning the
Vari-notch trimmers on TX-RX duplexers with this material. I cut the tuning
tools about 4 long, shape the end into a flat screwdriver blade using a
Dremel then a file, and install a small radio control knob on the end for
nice torque. When tweaking those TX-RX trimmers is mandatory to use a tool
containing no metal whatsoever.

Ron Rogers
-WB8ERB-


-Original Message-
From: Tedd Doda [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 6:22 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fiberglass rod


On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 12:04:20 -0500, Rogers, Ron wrote:

McMaster-Carr carries all sorts of Fiberglass rod material in various
sizes.
An example is a 60 length of 1/4 rod for $2.25. Check out part no.
8543K59
on the McMaster Carr website if you are interested. 

8543K27 looks to be the 1/8 rod..thanks!

I've sent them an email to see if they can chop
them up into 12 pieces, to make shipping a little
easier.

The only thing that worries me is that they are
natural fiberglass, and may have a course grain.
The red ones I have here have a very fine grain and
are very easy to shape.

Thanks for the tip Ron


Tedd Doda, VE3TJD

Lazer Audio and Electronics
Baden, Ontario, Canada
Way to go Matt! (NASCAR #17)






 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fuses on power cords

2004-01-08 Thread Richard
I use the blade type fuse holders and solder them in. I experience much less
voltage drop across them, resulting in more power out of the radio.
Richard, N7TGB

-Original Message-
From: Rod Lane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 10:07 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fuses on power cords


I think we all agree that there's nothing wrong with having the fuses
there.

With that said, and we want to install fuses in the grounds of existing
radios without the fuses, is there a favorite fuse holder for in-line
use?  I've never seen a 3AG style in-line fuseholder like comes with
most radios as a stand-alone purchasable item.  It usually comes with a
short (most times inadequate) length of wire out each end, already
crimped to the buttons or clamps used for contact to the fuses.

The only other kind of in-line fuseholders I've seen is the kind that
use the new blade type automotive fuses.  I picked up one that is
designed to solderlessly connect to the wires in an
insulation-displacement style, but it looked really weak.  I wouldn't
trust it with a couple of amps, let alone what a high power radio would
need.

73 de N1FNE







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Re: [Repeater-Builder] inline fuse holders

2004-01-08 Thread RSGilmore

On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 01:06:30 -0500 Rod Lane [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 With that said, and we want to install fuses in the grounds of
existing radios without the fuses, is there a favorite fuse holder for
in-line use?  I've never seen a 3AG style in-line fuseholder like comes
with most radios as a stand-alone purchasable item.  It usually comes
with a  short (most times inadequate) length of wire out each end,
already crimped to the buttons or clamps used for contact to the fuses.  



Check your electrical wholesaler;   once stumbled on a nice one --
rubberized, linked, ribbed cover ends (adjustable length  can't get
lost) with ready-to-crimp contacts for 14ga or so; price wasn't so bad.
mfgr was maybe BUSS or TRON ??

R Scott Gilmore  N8BQN   Saginaw   MI  USA

Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day.
Give him the internet, and he'll leave you alone for weeks.









 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] diddle sticks???

2004-01-08 Thread Ted Bleiman K9MDM - MDM Radio

remembering that this is a technical forum how else
could this be interpreted but in the technical rather
than biblical sense... I' m shocked nay disappointed
that anyone would attach anyother meaning to my
suggestion.
mdm ted (incensed ;-))

--- Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   They might not not the term 'diddle' in your way
 of thinking ... 
 
   Neil 
 
 John Clark wrote:
  
  If you need one for Motorola, they still sell
 them. About $7 with 
  shipping and all. That's where I went for tuning
 my mitreks.  If 
  you get a younger sounding person on the phone,
 ask for a tuning 
  screwdriver --they may not know 'diddle'! 
  
 
 
 
 
  
 
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=
Ted Bleiman  K9MDM -just tired
MDM Radio Ltd
1629-B N. 31 st Ave
Melrose Park, IL 60160
708.681.0300   fax 708.681.9800
email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web http://www.mdmradio.com

__
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the Signing Bonus Sweepstakes
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] inline fuse holders

2004-01-08 Thread Rogers, Ron
You might also check your local car audio shops. They carry some pretty
Beefy screw together inline cartridge fuse holders and fuses for these 800
watt and higher car audio systems. Some of these holders are made to
accommodate that # 2 welding cable that the kids use to run power back to
the rear mounted amplifier bays in their vehicles. 
I use a similar ones of these from the big Astron power supplies to the
final amplifiers in repeaters. The larger cartridge fuse and holder has more
surface area, stiffer spring tension, and less probability of voltage drop
under continuous high current than your smaller 1/4 Buss fuses and holders.


Ron Rogers
-WB8ERB-


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:11 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] inline fuse holders



On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 01:06:30 -0500 Rod Lane [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 With that said, and we want to install fuses in the grounds of
existing radios without the fuses, is there a favorite fuse holder for
in-line use?  I've never seen a 3AG style in-line fuseholder like comes
with most radios as a stand-alone purchasable item.  It usually comes
with a  short (most times inadequate) length of wire out each end,
already crimped to the buttons or clamps used for contact to the fuses.  



Check your electrical wholesaler;   once stumbled on a nice one --
rubberized, linked, ribbed cover ends (adjustable length  can't get
lost) with ready-to-crimp contacts for 14ga or so; price wasn't so bad.
mfgr was maybe BUSS or TRON ??

R Scott Gilmore  N8BQN   Saginaw   MI  USA

Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day.
Give him the internet, and he'll leave you alone for weeks.









 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] inline fuse holders

2004-01-08 Thread Mike Perryman
http://www.painlesswiring.com

Anything and everything automotive electrical..
Reasonable prices, outstanding customer service...

mike


At 10:56 AM 01/08/2004 -0500, you wrote:
You might also check your local car audio shops. They carry some pretty
Beefy screw together inline cartridge fuse holders and fuses for these 800
watt and higher car audio systems. Some of these holders are made to
accommodate that # 2 welding cable that the kids use to run power back to
the rear mounted amplifier bays in their vehicles.
I use a similar ones of these from the big Astron power supplies to the
final amplifiers in repeaters. The larger cartridge fuse and holder has more
surface area, stiffer spring tension, and less probability of voltage drop
under continuous high current than your smaller 1/4 Buss fuses and holders.


Ron Rogers
-WB8ERB-


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:11 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] inline fuse holders



On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 01:06:30 -0500 Rod Lane [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  With that said, and we want to install fuses in the grounds of
existing radios without the fuses, is there a favorite fuse holder for
in-line use?  I've never seen a 3AG style in-line fuseholder like comes
with most radios as a stand-alone purchasable item.  It usually comes
with a  short (most times inadequate) length of wire out each end,
already crimped to the buttons or clamps used for contact to the fuses.
 
 

Check your electrical wholesaler;   once stumbled on a nice one --
rubberized, linked, ribbed cover ends (adjustable length  can't get
lost) with ready-to-crimp contacts for 14ga or so; price wasn't so bad.
mfgr was maybe BUSS or TRON ??

R Scott Gilmore  N8BQN   Saginaw   MI  USA

Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day.
Give him the internet, and he'll leave you alone for weeks.











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-
   Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz  Davis, Inc.
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
   http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
   K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
   (703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
- 




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] inline fuse holders

2004-01-08 Thread albemarle7
The guys looking for a quality fuseholder.Newark Electronics has them in 
their catalogs. Mrf: Cooper/Bussmann, try Bussmann HFA ,rated 20 [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] 
Newark Part number 28F043. Holds regular 3AG and the quality is very good.  I 
have used them for years.  Newark Electronics may not sell to you because it is 
a small quanity order and a minimum charge may apply.  Check out their web 
site http://www.newark.com.   Hope this helps
To the guys that suggested dental floss, rubber band, small o rings to 
be used on tuning slugs. Very good ideas,  thank you. I was close but no gold 
ring, hi. 
Gary K2UQ
 



 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fiberglass rod

2004-01-08 Thread Tedd Doda
On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 09:01:52 -0500, Rogers, Ron wrote:

The rods I have gotten from them before seem to be on the order of G10
Fiberglass which is fairly workable, at least for 1/4 tools and tuning
shafts. 

I'm sure they will work just fine Ron. I just ordered 10x
5 foot rods, and the shipping was almost as much as the
rods themselves..that's what you get for living North
of the boarder.

and install a small radio control knob on the end for
nice torque.

Now there's a novel idea. I've got a whole box full
of old knobs and I think some are designed for a 
1/8 shaft.thanks!

When tweaking those TX-RX trimmers is mandatory to use a tool
containing no metal whatsoever.

Agreed. Some of those adjustments go off with just
the presents of metal NEAR them.

If anyone up here in Canada needs a foot or two of this rod, let
me know. No markup, just whatever it cost me plus shipping to you.


Tedd Doda, VE3TJD

Lazer Audio and Electronics
Baden, Ontario, Canada
Way to go Matt! (NASCAR #17)






 

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[Repeater-Builder] CSC CWID 51A

2004-01-08 Thread Bob
Anyone have the hookup information on this antique?  




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Identify this antenna manufacturer

2004-01-08 Thread Ken Arck
At 12:44 PM 1/8/2004 -0500, you wrote:
Looks like a DB-201 that is missing the radial kit...  see attached PDF and 
tell me if you agree..

---I disagree. Aside from the fact there is no plate through which the
radiator extends (using that fast-becoming-infamous Hy-Gain style
insulator) and the fact the J part of radiator extends below that plate,
IMHO the antenna in question looks nothing like a ground plane...

Of course your mileage may vary

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers
and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
Our new Repeater Audio Delay (RAD) board is now shipping! 
Compatible with many controllers!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net



 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Identify this antenna manufacturer

2004-01-08 Thread Mike Perryman




Yes sir! I guess space would be a problem on a list server.
Won't happen again.
mike
At 11:00 AM 01/08/2004 -0800, you wrote:
Please don't send email messages to
the list that have 900K attachments. 

Paul, kb9wlc
Mike Perryman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:


Looks like a DB-201 that is missing the radial kit... see attached PDF and 

tell me if you agree..

mike


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-
 Mike Perryman Cavell, Mertz  Davis, Inc.
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Consulting Engineers
 http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
 K5JMP Manassas, VA 20109 USA
 (703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax; DC Line (202) 332-0110 
-










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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Identify this antenna manufacturer

2004-01-08 Thread Jeff DePolo WN3A

Both Butternut and Hy-Gain made j-pole arrays for VHF and UHF.  It's hard
to tell from the picture - does it appear to be ham-grade construction or
something more significant?

 -Original Message-
 From: Mike Perryman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 12:44 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Identify this antenna manufacturer


 Looks like a DB-201 that is missing the radial kit...  see
 attached PDF and
 tell me if you agree..

 mike

 At 04:07 AM 01/08/2004 +, you wrote:
 Replaced a commercial antenna with electrical characteristics of a
 Decibel DB-224 or Celwave PD-340, four dipole array.
 Elements are much
 larger in diameter, only 3/4 of a folded dipole.  Bottom
 counterpoise
 is only a stright stick instead of a fold.  Took the antenna
 apart and
 have picture on this web site:
 
 http://www.w4dex.com/ant.htm
 
 Who made this thing and how old is it?  Trying to find more
 information
 about it to satisfy my mind.
 
 Thanks,
 Derek KC4FWC

 -
Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz  Davis, Inc.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
(703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
 -




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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fuses on power cords

2004-01-08 Thread Ralph Mowery


 My bet would be that the black wire fuse is there for positive ground
 vehicles, a vestige of times past. In that case, the black (negative) wire
 is hot, and you would need the fuse there.

 Bob U.
 AA6BT


That is one reason, but the other is for the times you go directly to the
battery with the negative lead.  If the wire from the battery for the normal
car's electrical system comes loose , the pathe for all the car's negative
return is from the coax or frame of the radio to the black wire of the rig
going to the battery.






 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder]

2004-01-08 Thread Lee Williams
Seems like a lot of extra work when compared to a cheap and easy radio
link. Why the wire? 73,Lee
- Original Message - 
From: W3GFD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 12:24 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder]


 I am looking for about 3500 feet of surplus 4 pair direct burial
telephone cable for a remote base project. The 4 pairs is a minimum.
If anyone knows of any at a real good price please let me know.
Thanks for your help.

 W3GFD





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder]

2004-01-08 Thread Matt Krick
Find a telephone company storage yard and steal it.

Or if you are not that adventurous,  or just plain out of shape...

You can get CAT-5 Shielded Twisted pair. But you will need to splice it 
your self, And I think the longest you can get it is 1000 feet.  And 
look to spend $80 to $150 per box times 4. And then you have to worry 
about line loss, ground loops and lightning strikes, Oh and did I 
mention what happens when some one inadvertently digs it up?

A cheaper and often overlooked alternative is using 2 pairs of modified 
2.4 GHz Wavecom wireless video links. These provide 1 video path plus 2 
audio channels and you could send 15 kHz Cue Tone down the video line 
to signal COS and PTT back and forth, and the audio bandwidth is 
sufficient (50Hz to 15kHz) to pass PL tones or straight discriminator 
audio.  Or if you are really psycho, you could send the 455 kHz Second 
IF of the RX down the video line.

Going into 2 coffee cans for antennas it should make 3500 feet easy, and 
it should cost about $100 - $150 for both pairs, depending where you get 
them. And they can run on 12 volt battery power, Ideal for solar 
applications.

--Matt




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fiberglass rod

2004-01-08 Thread Virden Clark Beckman
The red stuff is called glastic in the power distribution world,
fiberglass impregnated plastic - it has a very nice dielectric value and
is installed in most power distribution transformers around the
connection lugs. I see it in 1/4 flat format, I imagine it must be
available in other forms like round dowel rods.


-- 
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD



 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Identify this antenna manufacturer

2004-01-08 Thread Virden Clark Beckman
If you are looking for a name it was folded monopole 20 some years ago,
no gain but wide banded and durable in high winds - most coast guard
stations use these.

Mike Perryman wrote:
 
 Looks like a DB-201 that is missing the radial kit...  see attached PDF and
 tell me if you agree..
 
 mike
 
 At 04:07 AM 01/08/2004 +, you wrote:
 Replaced a commercial antenna with electrical characteristics of a
 Decibel DB-224 or Celwave PD-340, four dipole array.  Elements are
 much larger in diameter, only 3/4 of a folded dipole.  Bottom
 counterpoise is only a stright stick instead of a fold.  Took the
 antenna apart and have picture on this web site:
 
 http://www.w4dex.com/ant.htm
 
 Who made this thing and how old is it?  Trying to find more
 information about it to satisfy my mind.
 
 Thanks,
 Derek KC4FWC
 
 -
Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz  Davis, Inc.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
(703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
 -
 
 
 
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  Name: DB-201.pdf
DB-201.pdfType: Acrobat (application/pdf)
  Encoding: base64

-- 
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD

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RE: [Repeater-Builder]

2004-01-08 Thread Daron J. Wilson
 Find a telephone company storage yard and steal it.

Nice approach

 You can get CAT-5 Shielded Twisted pair. But you will need to splice
it
 your self, And I think the longest you can get it is 1000 feet.  And
 look to spend $80 to $150 per box times 4. And then you have to worry
 about line loss, ground loops and lightning strikes, Oh and did I
 mention what happens when some one inadvertently digs it up?

Not the right choice for your application at all, don't waste your time
burying that stuff that far.  If you are going to push audio that far on
the cable you will likely need to do some conditioning on it, if you are
interested in just dc control voltages, that's much easier.

I pay .13 a foot for 3 pair Cat3 direct burial phone cable, you can
probably find a better price on 3000' worth.  It has a heavy poly jacket
and a copper shield for rodent protection and shielding.  For splicing
you can easily use 3M scotchloks, they pinch together with pliers and
are gel filled to keep any moisture out.  There is a wonderful splice
box made by Klick-it.  It is yellow plastic, and comes in two halves.
After you splice the conductors and bond the shields together, you press
the two gel filled halves together until they click and you are set for
direct burial.

N7HQR

Daron J. Wilson, RCDD  ) )
Telecom Manager   ( (
LH Morris Electric, Inc.   ) )
(541) 265-8067 office   _||  mmm!
(541) 265-7652 fax ( ||  coffee!
(541) 270-5886 cellular \||
[EMAIL PROTECTED]||






 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Identify this antenna manufacturer

2004-01-08 Thread JJ
Intriguingmakes me think of a jpole but the dimensions are not right.
I also thought of the unity ground plane antennas that are folded on the
vertical element as well. (dc grounded)
The construction looks like that of cushcraft or hy-gain...but then I am but
a relative newbie and pale in the experience most of this group.

73,
Jon
KD5SFA

- Original Message -
From: Derek B. McIntyre [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 10:07 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Identify this antenna manufacturer


 Replaced a commercial antenna with electrical characteristics of a
 Decibel DB-224 or Celwave PD-340, four dipole array.  Elements are
 much larger in diameter, only 3/4 of a folded dipole.  Bottom
 counterpoise is only a stright stick instead of a fold.  Took the
 antenna apart and have picture on this web site:

 http://www.w4dex.com/ant.htm

 Who made this thing and how old is it?  Trying to find more
 information about it to satisfy my mind.

 Thanks,
 Derek KC4FWC







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Re: [Repeater-Builder] FREE 330 watt GE AMP

2004-01-08 Thread ICOMMAN
I'm in Baltimore, what's next?




 

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