[Repeater-Builder] Re: ICOM FR-3000 / FR-4000 repeater
Thanks for your suggestion. That is basically what I ended up doing. I programmed the unit as full duplex remote base, which basically bypasses the internal controller. I think the only thing I might add is a timer circuit for hang time. Right now the PTT drops as soon as the COR drops out. Thanks again everyone for all your help. John Liguori Sparta, NJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Milt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: John, General setup, I'm not directly familure with this unit. The Icom needs to operate as a full duplex base radio instead of as a repeater. The internal controller will most likely not be used, unless it can provide an ID function. This might be done via programming or a switch (Rpt/Local). Bring the audio and COS from the Icom receiver to the Doug Hall voter. Take the audio output of the voter and PTT and feed to the Icom transmitter. Good Luck Milton Engle N3LTQ MD Technical Services, LLC - Original Message - From: John 99-1nwecs.org2@ To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 4:27 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] ICOM FR-3000 / FR-4000 repeater I have an Icom FR-3000 repeater in use. I would like to add a Doug Hall signal to noise voter. I am not sure how to interface the voter into the repeater. I have COR and audio coming from my other receivers into the voter. My question is how to break out the receiver from the repeater, send it out to the voter, and send the voted signal back into the repeater activating the repeater controller transmitter? Can this be done using the internal repeater controller of the Icom? Should I use an external controller? I have the Icom instruction manual. It gives some pin-out information but doesn't seem to have what I am looking for. Is there a detailed service manual for these? Does someone have a copy they can send me? I tried contacting Icom but the systems people were not available to offer any assistance. Thanks in advance, John Liguori Sparta Twp NJ Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related
I have seen the license for the UHF pair that they have but the hotel is not interested in purchasing new equipment for the current system of VHF radios was just bought last year. I got stuck with this project of getting a repeater pair and programming the radios. If I would have known the system was so jacked I would have turned down the contract. Peter Dakota Summerhawk -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 7:56 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related Peter, What type HTs do they have. One does not see HTs with mWs except for PRS, the small cheap radios in the 462 range. So their HTs might have power, 2-4 W, to cover the grounds. As you proably know the UHF would get out of holes (hotel walls, etc) better, but guess not an option. Covering the 50 acres is no problem, covering from inside rooms/hallways, etc can be. I would try for a remoted base with roof antenna. This will not improve HT-HT coverage, would give someone better coverage which is probably important...if the management can talk this often determines if the system is working. Few listen to the people who actually do the work...way it is. Another solution would be a repeater, low power, 10 W. Mot has some very good GR300 using couple of their Radius line rigs mounted in a box. Since commerical would require 2 freq and if 5 MHz apart could use mobile type duplexer. All fits in a small 10w x 10d x 12h or so including power supply. The HTs would probably need to be reprogrammed and the proper license obtained. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/03/08 Sat AM 09:18:11 CST To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related Thehotel that I am contracted for has just spent $50 million for a renovation buthas already bought new VHF radios, believe mw when I suggested that they go toUHF they balked at the idea of having to buy new radios as part of therenovation was the new handhelds sold to them by a different company in townthat assured them that the new radios would cover the 50 some odd acres ofproperty that they own. So its up to me now to get thethings in order to get a system that works for the least money. Go figure. Peter Dakota Summerhawk -Original Message- From:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of G Shaw Sent: Saturday, March 08, 20085:55 AM To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder]Need some help-Commercial related You will find as I have that the FCC will not permit aVHF highband repeater with a non-govt lic. such as business orindustrial. IB etc. You may be able to bootleg it but you will rcv a ceaseand desist from the FCC when they become aware of it. The Coordinatorssuch as NABER will just reject it. If you need a repeater you will haveto consider a narror band UHF application. If you decide to stickwith high band then simplex would be the route to go. Glenn -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com ]On Behalf Of Milt Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 7:48AM To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Needsome help-Commercial related The simple answer to your question is the pair thatgives the most seperation. There are many more things to take intoconsideration. This is where a firm that is familure with the ins andouts of commercial licensing is invaluable. While the 151.835 may bemodified for a FB2 and paired with 157.695, the coordinating agency may or maynot grant coordination. Another thing to consider is thatwhile you can sell this customer a cheap older repeater, the TK-720 is not approvedfor narrowband operation IIRC. Even if the current license allows +/-5Khz deviation a new grant or modification will most likely require +/- 2.5 Khzdeviation. Since the deadline for conversion to narrowband is 2013 (5years away) one should give serious consideration to how upgrading will takeplace. - Original Message - From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 11:37 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related I have to put in a repeater for a hotel.I have a Kenwood TKR-720 repeater and the frequencies I have for the currentlicense are as follows: 151.835 152.435 157.695 157.575 My question is, what pair is going to be good for this repeater? I haveto get a working system up and running but need to figure ut what pair to useand then adjust the license before putting in the system to have it work. Ihave a duplexer for the repeater as well as the antenna but will have to tuneboth
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater
Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt. However, where all this power is in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs. Looks good on watt meter, but not on spectrum anal. Yes, the driver is used to control power output. The pot that is used to adjust the power simple adjust the base voltage on a pass transistor controlling the voltage to the driver transistor. If this pot is doing nothing I think it is bad. The problem with the solder joint you repaired probably came about due to this high output power and was ran in this condition. You do need to get the power output down to spec for spectral reasons and also for life of the PA. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: kd5inn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/03/13 Thu AM 06:25:04 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater I recently aquired a master II repeater. It turns out that it was only putting out 3.5 watts. After a look around here, I was able to get the pa back in shape by correcting a broken solder near the hamonic filter. Now, however, it shows to be putting out 140 to 150 watts, and even when I try to turn down the power on the 10w driver on the pa board, nothing happens. I need to turn the power down, but it doesn't seem to respond. Any ideas?? kd5inn Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?
Mike, Does this problem occur on one channel or all??? If only on one then the TV's LO might be the problem. TV IFs are 41-47 MHz with the video carrier at 42.25 MHz. I think the LO would be 45.75 MHz above the channel freq. Ch 3 is 61.25 MHz. Since so much these days uses some type of converter box the TV might stay on Ch 3 or 4. The Nelson ratings boxes that log what you watch uses this info to determine what channel you are watching. The Germans in WWII also looked for the rcvr LOs to detect near by ships. If on all channels then something other than the TV's LO and would be another oscillator/ossillation inside. This might be an issue the TV manufacture knows about. The way the interference specs were written long ago was a manufacture was responsible for interference, but only had to correct if a problem occurred. Did not have to spend the money on all TVs made by installing filters, but had to correct if occurred. Might give them a call. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: raritansailor [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/03/13 Thu AM 06:04:14 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV? I had tried the HT sniffer method, but it seemed to come from the TV as a unit, and was not any better/worse at a given lead. I've got to get the SpecAn involved and find out what exactly this thing is radiating, and try to relate it to some fundemental operation of a TV, and go from there! Tnx Mike - N3EAQ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mike, Maybe you've tried this, but taking an HT on your input freq and sniffing around the TV might give idea of where it is coming from. Might be on power cord or antenna. If on power lead could put simple inline wrap cord around choke. Would act as low pass filter. On antenna lead might need a simple notch using a piece of 1/4 wavelength RG59 tuned to your input freq with T connector. Simple to make and sure it would blend in nicely. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: raritansailor [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/03/12 Wed AM 05:59:01 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV? Unfortunately the TV belongs to the folks who are allowing us to use the site for free. I really dont want to bend their noses :-) I've discussed replacing the TV, but they're not keen on that answer. Yes, I am a bit gun shy WRT ripping into their set, I hope some chokes on the leads buy me something! Thanks! Mike --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, George Henry ka3hsw@ wrote: Be VERY careful about doing the work on someone else's property... there are liability issues! (If their TV catches on fire down the road, guess who they'll come after) Best bet is to offer suggestions such as Jeff posted, even offer to pay for the filters, but the bottom line is that it is 100% the responsibility of the owner of the interfering device to eliminate the interference or discontinue the use of the device, when interference occurs to a licensed service. Send 'em to the ARRL website: lots of good information for consumers there, and the FCC even directs people there! You might even want to print out the FCC warning letter that went out to the owner of a TV set that was interfering with the EPIRB satellite system recently. That oughta scare 'em into doing the right thing! George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413 -Original Message- From: Jeff DePolo jd0@ Sent: Mar 11, 2008 9:34 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV? Any Ideas how to stop the noise at the TV? Regards, N3EAQ The most direct solution is obvious: replace the TV. If that's not an option, try choking the coax/video and power cords going into the TV with ferrites. Pick a mix that provides optimum attenuation at VHF. You might also try disconnecting the coax or video/audio cables from the TV and see if that changes the severity of the interference; might give you a clue. If that doesn't seem to improve it, it's probably radiating through the TV's plastic chassis. You can experiment with lining the inside of the cabinet with EMI/RFI shielding foil or spray-on shielding products, but if you have to go that far, and with the final results potentially still not being acceptable, the direct solution first proposed above is probably the best way to go... --- Jeff WN3A Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are
[Repeater-Builder] Need GE Extenders
Greetings In need of a set of MASTR III card extenders Pls state price and condition Ed Com/Rad Inc
[Repeater-Builder] Keying IC-706 Remote Base?
I'd like to hear from anyone who uses an IC-706 as a remote base on a repeater regarding keying the 706 via one of the 706 rear panel connectors..how did you do it? The one we have isn't working as easily as it appears it should... Thank you, Robin Midgett K4IDC
[Repeater-Builder] Micor Equipment Available
Bob, I could use a duplexer and a Micor if they are capable of being tuned to the ham 440 band. Do any of the radios or duplexers have a frequency written on them? Also, are these items made for rack mount or for table mount? John AF4PD
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Master II 110w repeater
I'm sorry, I forgot to put in that this is a vhf repeater. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kd5inn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently aquired a master II repeater. It turns out that it was only putting out 3.5 watts. After a look around here, I was able to get the pa back in shape by correcting a broken solder near the hamonic filter. Now, however, it shows to be putting out 140 to 150 watts, and even when I try to turn down the power on the 10w driver on the pa board, nothing happens. I need to turn the power down, but it doesn't seem to respond. Any ideas?? kd5inn
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater
At 3/13/2008 06:35, you wrote: Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt. However, where all this power is in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs. Looks good on watt meter, but not on spectrum anal. I have never seen this on a Mastr II PA unless it was defective (bad transistor, filter cap, etc.). Many G.E. RFPAs will output well in excess of their rating, do so cleanly. I have a 25 watt VHFHB MVP that will do over 50 watts. The real reason you don't want to do this is that the PCB chassis design will not handle the dissipated power for very long, resulting in heat-related failures such as you describe. You do need to get the power output down to spec for spectral reasons No. and also for life of the PA. Yes. Bob NO6B
Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related
Maybe it is not too late to turn down the contract. Did you really think you would be able to get them licensed to a VHF pair, or were they not totally upfront about what they had and wanted. You can't control what the FCC allows. You could just make a go of it with a simplex system. Michael -Original Message- From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 00:16:05 To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related I have seen the license for the UHF pair that they have but the hotel is not interested in purchasing new equipment for the current system of VHF radios was just bought last year. I got stuck with this project of getting a repeater pair and programming the radios. If I would have known the system was so jacked I would have turned down the contract. Peter Dakota Summerhawk -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 7:56 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related Peter, What type HTs do they have. One does not see HTs with mWs except for PRS, the small cheap radios in the 462 range. So their HTs might have power, 2-4 W, to cover the grounds. As you proably know the UHF would get out of holes (hotel walls, etc) better, but guess not an option. Covering the 50 acres is no problem, covering from inside rooms/hallways, etc can be. I would try for a remoted base with roof antenna. This will not improve HT-HT coverage, would give someone better coverage which is probably important...if the management can talk this often determines if the system is working. Few listen to the people who actually do the work...way it is. Another solution would be a repeater, low power, 10 W. Mot has some very good GR300 using couple of their Radius line rigs mounted in a box. Since commerical would require 2 freq and if 5 MHz apart could use mobile type duplexer. All fits in a small 10w x 10d x 12h or so including power supply. The HTs would probably need to be reprogrammed and the proper license obtained. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/03/08 Sat AM 09:18:11 CST To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related Thehotel that I am contracted for has just spent $50 million for a renovation buthas already bought new VHF radios, believe mw when I suggested that they go toUHF they balked at the idea of having to buy new radios as part of therenovation was the new handhelds sold to them by a different company in townthat assured them that the new radios would cover the 50 some odd acres ofproperty that they own. So its up to me now to get thethings in order to get a system that works for the least money. Go figure. Peter Dakota Summerhawk -Original Message- From:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of G Shaw Sent: Saturday, March 08, 20085:55 AM To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder]Need some help-Commercial related You will find as I have that the FCC will not permit aVHF highband repeater with a non-govt lic. such as business orindustrial. IB etc. You may be able to bootleg it but you will rcv a ceaseand desist from the FCC when they become aware of it. The Coordinatorssuch as NABER will just reject it. If you need a repeater you will haveto consider a narror band UHF application. If you decide to stickwith high band then simplex would be the route to go. Glenn -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com ]On Behalf Of Milt Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 7:48AM To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Needsome help-Commercial related The simple answer to your question is the pair thatgives the most seperation. There are many more things to take intoconsideration. This is where a firm that is familure with the ins andouts of commercial licensing is invaluable. While the 151.835 may bemodified for a FB2 and paired with 157.695, the coordinating agency may or maynot grant coordination. Another thing to consider is thatwhile you can sell this customer a cheap older repeater, the TK-720 is not approvedfor narrowband operation IIRC. Even if the current license allows +/-5Khz deviation a new grant or modification will most likely require +/- 2.5 Khzdeviation. Since the deadline for conversion to narrowband is 2013 (5years away) one should give serious consideration to how upgrading will takeplace. - Original Message - From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 11:37 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater
Bob, I've seen on spectrum anal spur problems with radio shops turning up the power on GE Mastr IIs and get lots of unwanted spurs out of the PAs. This was done of course as to impress the customer with a watt meter. It also may not happen on the bench for a short time, but with use it can get worse. I've seen it in other PAs, some linear or were linear when operated correctly. I would say in most cases it was with the earlier versions. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/03/13 Thu AM 10:36:28 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater At 3/13/2008 06:35, you wrote: Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt. However, where all this power is in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs. Looks good on watt meter, but not on spectrum anal. I have never seen this on a Mastr II PA unless it was defective (bad transistor, filter cap, etc.). Many G.E. RFPAs will output well in excess of their rating, do so cleanly. I have a 25 watt VHFHB MVP that will do over 50 watts. The real reason you don't want to do this is that the PCB chassis design will not handle the dissipated power for very long, resulting in heat-related failures such as you describe. You do need to get the power output down to spec for spectral reasons No. and also for life of the PA. Yes. Bob NO6B Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater
I spoke to a tech at a local radio shop, and he seemed to think that there might be a transistor shorted. He mentioned a large transistor that attaches to the frame of the radio, and I do recall seeing some modification around there. I know just enough to be a little dangerous, so I guess I'll get a little curious tonight, and hope for the best. I'd be open to buying a spare pa board if someone happened to have one laying around. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bob, I've seen on spectrum anal spur problems with radio shops turning up the power on GE Mastr IIs and get lots of unwanted spurs out of the PAs. This was done of course as to impress the customer with a watt meter. It also may not happen on the bench for a short time, but with use it can get worse. I've seen it in other PAs, some linear or were linear when operated correctly. I would say in most cases it was with the earlier versions. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/03/13 Thu AM 10:36:28 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater At 3/13/2008 06:35, you wrote: Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt. However, where all this power is in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs. Looks good on watt meter, but not on spectrum anal. I have never seen this on a Mastr II PA unless it was defective (bad transistor, filter cap, etc.). Many G.E. RFPAs will output well in excess of their rating, do so cleanly. I have a 25 watt VHFHB MVP that will do over 50 watts. The real reason you don't want to do this is that the PCB chassis design will not handle the dissipated power for very long, resulting in heat-related failures such as you describe. You do need to get the power output down to spec for spectral reasons No. and also for life of the PA. Yes. Bob NO6B Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
[Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna
Folks, I've been doing TONS of reading. Mostly I'm hearing that fiberglass radome antennas aren't so good in repeater service. I'm looking for a dual-band antenna (2m/70cm) for a 70cm repeater and 2m remote base. I'm not finding much that isn't a fiberglass radome. I'm not set on a huge antenna -- moderate gain would be fine. Any suggestions before I just say forget about it and just put up a DB-408 or DB-420 for the repeater and run the remote base on something 25' up the tower? 73 DE N0MJS
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna
I'd try a 2m folded dipole array in 3/4 wave mode for the 440
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related
In a message dated 3/13/2008 11:20:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Maybe it is not too late to turn down the contract. Did you really think you would be able to get them licensed to a VHF pair, or were they not totally upfront about what they had and wanted. You can't control what the FCC allows. You could just make a go of it with a simplex system. Michael You are already licensed for the VHF frequencies you need. It should not be a problem to modify the license for repeater operation. Weather it will meet your customers expectations remains to be seen. Chris **It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf000301)
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dual-Band Repeater Antenna
I have a Diamond X50 high atop the School gym roof at about 1588 ft asl. It runs into a MFJ diplexer and serves a 20 watt 440 repeater and 65 watt 2 meter tranceiver just fine.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dual-Band Repeater Antenna
At 05:12 PM 3/13/2008, Terry wrote: I have a Diamond X50 high atop the School gym roof at about 1588 ft asl. It runs into a MFJ diplexer and serves a 20 watt 440 repeater and 65 watt 2 meter tranceiver just fine. --I ran a Diamond X300 on top of Mt Haleakala on Maui at 10,000' for years. It survived many wind and ice storms just fine Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!
[Repeater-Builder] LMR-400 Noise question?
I have seen the emails regarding the noise problems with the LMR type feedline. What I can't find is any on-line documentation that states the problems in duplex service and what is actually going on. I personally know what is going on (dis-similar metals ,foil, braid, etc...). I just need a document to refer the powers that be so they can have it as a tool I did a quick check on the web with Google and on the Repeater builder site, but very little info... Any help would be great.. Bryon Jeffers KØBSJ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna
Cort, The problems most people have with colinears in radomes is (1) leakage of water into antennas assembled from more than one section, (2) internal connections which break or develop intermittents, and (3) they're often completely destroyed in a lightning strike, sometimes spectacularly, because the small-diamater conductors vaporize inside the sealed radome, causing an explosion. (1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break down under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass, which may allow water migration through the radome. (2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted, with a brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last much longer. (3) Some people swear by various lightning arrestor or static-dissipation schemes. I have no personal experience here. Others just put up a heavy-duty exposed-dipole array, which can often live through direct lightning hits with only cosmetic damage. Some people have good luck with Diamond or Comet, especially at sites with low potential for intermod. 73, Paul, AE4KR - Original Message - From: Cort Buffington To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 1:36 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna Folks, I've been doing TONS of reading. Mostly I'm hearing that fiberglass radome antennas aren't so good in repeater service. I'm looking for a dual-band antenna (2m/70cm) for a 70cm repeater and 2m remote base. I'm not finding much that isn't a fiberglass radome. I'm not set on a huge antenna -- moderate gain would be fine. Any suggestions before I just say forget about it and just put up a DB-408 or DB-420 for the repeater and run the remote base on something 25' up the tower? 73 DE N0MJS
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna
At 06:28 PM 3/13/2008, Paul Plack wrote: Cort, (1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break down under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass, which may allow water migration through the radome. -I've always done this (wrap the joints first with the sealing goop, then electrical tape over that and finally a tie wrap at the outer end of the tape to prevent it from unravelling with time) and have never had water penetration. Not once. (2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted, with a brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last much longer. ---Yep, Support the top with something non-conductive to keep the antenna from swingin' in the breeze goes a long way at increasing longevity (my oldest Diamond still in repeater service is almost 10 years old). Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Mastr II 110w repeater
I hate to be a nag, but it would also be helpful if you provided some combination and/or module part numbers. I am not being sarcastic, just realistic. If you can identify exactly by part or model number what you have, it makes it much easier for the Elmers on this list to zero in on the problem and make constructive suggestions. There are several different Mastr II VHF transmitters, which one do you have? Which LBI are you using to troubleshoot? 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of kd5inn Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 6:14 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Master II 110w repeater I'm sorry, I forgot to put in that this is a vhf repeater. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com , kd5inn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently aquired a Mastr II repeater. It turns out that it was only putting out 3.5 watts. After a look around here, I was able to get the pa back in shape by correcting a broken solder near the hamonic filter. Now, however, it shows to be putting out 140 to 150 watts, and even when I try to turn down the power on the 10w driver on the pa board, nothing happens. I need to turn the power down, but it doesn't seem to respond. Any ideas?? kd5inn
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna
A friend and I used direct-burial heat shrink tubing with some kind of sealing goo in it on a multi-piece antenna and did a PVC holder for the top end. We were pretty happy with it, but I've heard so much about how great the folded dipole antennas are that I was unsure if I was really missing out with poor performance. I've since moved from that town, but understand the antenna was change b/c a commercial antenna of some sort was available. I never found out if the Comet survived or if it was torn down and inspected. I was honestly just considering a Diamond X50NA or a Hustler G6-270 so I wouldn't have to worry about joints or extra long flapping in the wind. There's a DB420 sticking out of the top of the tower -- I have the position directly below it, so I can side-mount and do whatever I want - and will be less likely to take a direct lightning strike. It is a tower on a farm for a farm repeater, and after running our two frequencies, I see we have little intermod issues to worry about. I also have a DB-420 I could use... Oh, decisions :) Thanks as usual for the input guys, it is invaluable to me. 73 DE N0MJS P.S. Ken, using dual-band and remote base is directly related to my post on the RC-210 list regarding the TM-271A a couple of days ago. On Mar 13, 2008, at 8:33 PM, Ken Arck wrote: At 06:28 PM 3/13/2008, Paul Plack wrote: Cort, (1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break down under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass, which may allow water migration through the radome. -I've always done this (wrap the joints first with the sealing goop, then electrical tape over that and finally a tie wrap at the outer end of the tape to prevent it from unravelling with time) and have never had water penetration. Not once. (2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted, with a brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last much longer. ---Yep, Support the top with something non-conductive to keep the antenna from swingin' in the breeze goes a long way at increasing longevity (my oldest Diamond still in repeater service is almost 10 years old). Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net We don't just make 'em. We use 'em! Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna
Cort, good deal. Just remember that shrink-wrap was designed assuming it would never see sunlight. It may, or may not stand up to UV any better that Scotch 33. - Original Message - From: Cort Buffington [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 7:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna A friend and I used direct-burial heat shrink tubing with some kind of sealing goo in it on a multi-piece antenna and did a PVC holder for the top end. We were pretty happy with it, but I've heard so much about how great the folded dipole antennas are that I was unsure if I was really missing out with poor performance. I've since moved from that town, but understand the antenna was change b/c a commercial antenna of some sort was available. I never found out if the Comet survived or if it was torn down and inspected. I was honestly just considering a Diamond X50NA or a Hustler G6-270 so I wouldn't have to worry about joints or extra long flapping in the wind. There's a DB420 sticking out of the top of the tower -- I have the position directly below it, so I can side-mount and do whatever I want - and will be less likely to take a direct lightning strike. It is a tower on a farm for a farm repeater, and after running our two frequencies, I see we have little intermod issues to worry about. I also have a DB-420 I could use... Oh, decisions :) Thanks as usual for the input guys, it is invaluable to me. 73 DE N0MJS P.S. Ken, using dual-band and remote base is directly related to my post on the RC-210 list regarding the TM-271A a couple of days ago. On Mar 13, 2008, at 8:33 PM, Ken Arck wrote: At 06:28 PM 3/13/2008, Paul Plack wrote: Cort, (1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break down under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass, which may allow water migration through the radome. -I've always done this (wrap the joints first with the sealing goop, then electrical tape over that and finally a tie wrap at the outer end of the tape to prevent it from unravelling with time) and have never had water penetration. Not once. (2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted, with a brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last much longer. ---Yep, Support the top with something non-conductive to keep the antenna from swingin' in the breeze goes a long way at increasing longevity (my oldest Diamond still in repeater service is almost 10 years old). Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net We don't just make 'em. We use 'em! Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna
Ken Co I'd like to put my hat in the ring here.. Back in the 90's a Diamond 23A 2M antenna was at 5000' for 10 years before it was replaced. It stood off the SE corner of a 300 meter national transmitter tower at about the 30M section, and serviced a vast area of country. The tower was on top of the coastal range in North Queensland. The prevailing SE weather was a constant worry for the tower repair crew, and often salt crystal could be found in dry weather. When the antenna was removed from the site, it was very evident that one side of the radome was more opaque than the other, which was put down to the SE weather. The gland O rings had completely broken down into black powder, and about 5 ounces of water was drained from the radome. It went back into service on a packet BBS at sea level for many years there- after, having been recoated and a hole in the base to drain any condensation. If I recall correctly, the collinear solder joints were silver soldered before it was delivered to the tower crew. John Ken Arck wrote: At 06:28 PM 3/13/2008, Paul Plack wrote: Cort, (1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break down under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass, which may allow water migration through the radome. -I've always done this (wrap the joints first with the sealing goop, then electrical tape over that and finally a tie wrap at the outer end of the tape to prevent it from unravelling with time) and have never had water penetration. Not once. (2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted, with a brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last much longer. ---Yep, Support the top with something non-conductive to keep the antenna from swingin' in the breeze goes a long way at increasing longevity (my oldest Diamond still in repeater service is almost 10 years old). Ken
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater
On Thu, 13 Mar 2008, Ron Wright wrote: Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt. However, where all this power is in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs. Looks good on watt meter, but not on spectrum anal. What kind of spectrum do you receive anally? -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR [EMAIL PROTECTED] But remember, with no superpowers comes no responsibility. --rly
[Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-400 Noise question?
Andrew has a technical paper that compares Heliax to braid-foil cables at: http://www.andrew.com/search/BN_SP30-27.aspx -- --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bryon Jeffers KØBSJ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ...I just need a document ...
[Repeater-Builder] DB 224 antenna for sale tuned for the 2meter ham band
Due to a purchasing mixup our ham radio club has this antenna for sale new in the box. It was ordered for the 2m ham band at 144-148, our repeater is at the high end of the band. We are located in South Florida and I might be talked into meeting someone half way in South Florida to avoid shipping charges and problems, otherwise due to its size it will need to be sent freight. This is a great antenna for a repeater as many of you are already familure with it. Our club is asking $400 for this antenna but any reasonable offer will be considered by the board. Please email me off list if you are interested at ROBP(AT)JFCSOnline(DOT)COM Thanks - Rob - KS4EC
RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related
The simplex system is not working hence the reason they need a repeater. I got the fcc form filled out to get a vhf pair in the area for them so we will see. The system was abandoned by the former shop as they went out of business so its just me now for the system to get them up and running. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: 3/13/08 9:20 AM Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related Maybe it is not too late to turn down the contract. Did you really think you would be able to get them licensed to a VHF pair, or were they not totally upfront about what they had and wanted. You can't control what the FCC allows. You could just make a go of it with a simplex system. Michael -Original Message- From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 00:16:05 To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related I have seen the license for the UHF pair that they have but the hotel is not interested in purchasing new equipment for the current system of VHF radios was just bought last year. I got stuck with this project of getting a repeater pair and programming the radios. If I would have known the system was so jacked I would have turned down the contract. Peter Dakota Summerhawk
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related
Checking with the license two of the stations are 200 some miles away at another little America, so we have one frequency on site so we need a new pair to be able to be complaint. Peter Dakota Summerhawk -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 3:58 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related In a message dated 3/13/2008 11:20:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Maybe it is not too late to turn down the contract. Did you really think you would be able to get them licensed to a VHF pair, or were they not totally upfront about what they had and wanted. You can't control what the FCC allows. You could just make a go of it with a simplex system. Michael You are already licensed for the VHF frequencies you need. It should not be a problem to modify the license for repeater operation. Weather it will meet your customers expectations remains to be seen. Chris _ It's Tax Time! HYPERLINK http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf000301; \nGet tips, forms and advice on AOL Money Finance. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1328 - Release Date: 3/13/2008 11:31 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1328 - Release Date: 3/13/2008 11:31 AM
[Repeater-Builder] R2001 Service monitor question
Sorry if this is a little off topic. I have located what appears to be a Motorola R2001 service monitor, although there is no model number sticker on it. I identified it by the pics on the net. Does anyone know what the difference between the A-B-C and D versions is. and can you tell by looking at it. Also everything I see on the net says this has a sweep generator, some say this is used for tuning duplexors. I have heard of both a sweep generator and a tracking generator. I know you use a tracking generator but is a sweep generator the same thing just a different name? Thanks in advance - Rob
