[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-18 Thread Tom
Then call the stinking things 12 amp and 16 amp circuits; for crying
out loud!!!  The United States is FULL of examples of this type of
DISHONESTY (can you say horsepower?). No wonder the US has become a
third rate country and their products (those that ARE still made here)
have no credibility in the world market.  Just like the half gallon
of ice cream that now weighs 48 ounces; and I could go on and on! 
ONLY in the US.
Tom













1


-- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ron,
 
 That is a good question.  The answer is that one is not supposed to
connect
 any load greater than 12 amperes to an outlet rated at 15 amperes,
that is,
 a NEMA 5-15R receptacle.  The NEC allows two or more 15-ampere-rated
outlets
 to be installed on a 20-ampere branch circuit (wired with 12 AWG
conductors
 and a 20A fuse or circuit breaker), but the limit of 12 amperes on each
 outlet still applies.
 
 Proof of this restriction is evident in the vacuum cleaner wars of a
 decade or so ago.  Hoover came out with a vacuum cleaner with 7
amperes of
 cleaning power.  Then Bissel came out with a unit claiming 9 amperes of
 cleaning power.  Other vacuum cleaner makers entered the fray until
all of
 the brands had units with 12 amperes of cleaning power.  The
reason that
 nobody offered a unit with 13 amperes of cleaning power is because they
 would then have to equip that unit with a NEMA 5-20P plug and at least a
 14/3 power cord.  Most older homes do not have NEMA 5-20R outlets,
so such a
 vacuum cleaner could not be plugged in to the outlets in most homes.
 Besides, there is no credibility to a laughable rating of cleaning
power
 expressed in amperes!  That is about as silly as claiming that a mobile
 radio has 13.8 volts of talk power!
 
 Back to your second question.  By definition, a 15-ampere-rated branch
 circuit has circuit conductors of #14 AWG or larger, and is
protected by a
 fuse or circuit breaker rated at 15 amperes.  The fuse or circuit
breaker
 should hold indefinitely at 15 amperes, but the NEC recognizes that
allowing
 100% of rated current is never a good idea, since wiring in attics may
 already be in a very hot environment.  Therefore, the NEC requires
that no
 ordinary branch circuit be permitted to be loaded more than 80% of the
 circuit rating.  That's where the 12 and 16 ampere limits come from.
 
 Another issue is voltage drop, which is directly proportional to circuit
 loading.  Circuits that are loaded to 100% of rating will probably have
 excessive voltage drop, which leads to inefficient operation.  Good
 electrical design dictates that the wire size be increased for long
runs, to
 keep the voltage drop below 3%.  Moreover, an adequate electrical supply
 system should never experience more than 80% loading of any circuit.
 Very
 heavy single loads should have a dedicated branch circuit of suitable
 capacity, with a single outlet.
 
 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright
 Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 8:07 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power
Supplies
 
 Eric,
 
 Question about the outlets. Is the only reason one cannot get more
than 12
 amp from a 15 amp outlet is the rules so if one is designing a power
system
 if more than 12 amps is required one has to put in 20 amp outlet to meet
 code???
 
 I would think one could get 15 amps due to the breaker able to
handle it or
 are 15 amp breakers designed to trip at just above 12 amps???
 
 73, ron, n9ee/r
 
 From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net 
 Date: 2008/07/17 Thu PM 11:00:53 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 
 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
 
  
 Wayne,
 
 That is not exactly true. An outlet rated at 15 amperes cannot have any
 load greater than 12 amperes plugged into it. An outlet rated at 20
amperes
 cannot have any load greater than 16 amperes plugged into it. This is
 clearly stated in Article 210.21(B)(2) of the National Electrical
Code. A
 device that actually draws 20 amperes at 120 VAC must be plugged
into an
 outlet and branch circuit rated at 30 amperes.
 
 When load currents exceed 16 amperes at 120 VAC, it's time to
consider a
 branch circuit rated at 208 or 240 VAC. Most repeaters and
high-power PAs
 have optional connections to enable operation on 208 or 240 VAC.
Keep in
 mind that there is no such voltage as 220 although that obsolete
figure
 is
 still in common usage. The nominal single-phase voltage supplied to
 residences is 120/240 VAC, while the electrical supply to light
commercial,
 apartment complexes, and condos is usually 120/208 VAC derived from two
 phases of a three-phase distribution system. I mention this because a
 fellow Ham who now lives in a large apartment complex mentioned to
me

[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-18 Thread Tom
That's the problem.  Nothing/nobody delivers what it/they're
rated/expected to deliver.  I do not consider it acceptable for
shysters to shirk their responsibility by citing engineering
practice as an excuse.
Tom


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Pelnar [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Eric,
 
 Nice explanation. Good engineering practice. However, circuits can
be loaded 
 100% as long as it is not a continuous load (operated for more than 4 
 hours). Vacuum cleaners (not likely to run 4 hours at a time) are more 
 likely limited to 12 amps due to minimum circuit opacity for motor
loads 
 requiring an additional 25% of the load, so as to not overload a 15 amp 
 circuit.
 
 I apologize to all the non electricians reading this. Due to the
amazingly 
 confusing way the NEC is written, it's hard for electricians to pass
up a 
 good code argument. :)
 
 Once again, very good engineering practice, Eric, in spite of the code 
 details.
 
 Gerald Pelnar WD0FYF
 McPherson, Ks
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 10:47 PM
 Subject: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power
Supplies
 
 
  Ron,
 
  That is a good question.  The answer is that one is not supposed to 
  connect
  any load greater than 12 amperes to an outlet rated at 15 amperes,
that 
  is,
  a NEMA 5-15R receptacle.  The NEC allows two or more 15-ampere-rated 
  outlets
  to be installed on a 20-ampere branch circuit (wired with 12 AWG 
  conductors
  and a 20A fuse or circuit breaker), but the limit of 12 amperes on
each
  outlet still applies.
 
  Proof of this restriction is evident in the vacuum cleaner wars of a
  decade or so ago.  Hoover came out with a vacuum cleaner with 7
amperes 
  of
  cleaning power.  Then Bissel came out with a unit claiming 9
amperes of
  cleaning power.  Other vacuum cleaner makers entered the fray
until all of
  the brands had units with 12 amperes of cleaning power.  The
reason that
  nobody offered a unit with 13 amperes of cleaning power is because
they
  would then have to equip that unit with a NEMA 5-20P plug and at
least a
  14/3 power cord.  Most older homes do not have NEMA 5-20R outlets,
so such 
  a
  vacuum cleaner could not be plugged in to the outlets in most homes.
  Besides, there is no credibility to a laughable rating of
cleaning power
  expressed in amperes!  That is about as silly as claiming that a
mobile
  radio has 13.8 volts of talk power!
 
  Back to your second question.  By definition, a 15-ampere-rated branch
  circuit has circuit conductors of #14 AWG or larger, and is
protected by a
  fuse or circuit breaker rated at 15 amperes.  The fuse or circuit
breaker
  should hold indefinitely at 15 amperes, but the NEC recognizes that 
  allowing
  100% of rated current is never a good idea, since wiring in attics may
  already be in a very hot environment.  Therefore, the NEC requires
that no
  ordinary branch circuit be permitted to be loaded more than 80% of the
  circuit rating.  That's where the 12 and 16 ampere limits come from.
 
  Another issue is voltage drop, which is directly proportional to
circuit
  loading.  Circuits that are loaded to 100% of rating will probably
have
  excessive voltage drop, which leads to inefficient operation.  Good
  electrical design dictates that the wire size be increased for
long runs, 
  to
  keep the voltage drop below 3%.  Moreover, an adequate electrical
supply
  system should never experience more than 80% loading of any
circuit.  Very
  heavy single loads should have a dedicated branch circuit of suitable
  capacity, with a single outlet.
 
  73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 
 





[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-18 Thread Tom
Besides, there is no credibility to a laughable rating of
cleaning power expressed in amperes! That is about as silly as
claiming that a mobile radio has 13.8 volts of talk power

Not exactly.  You can see that the vacuum is designed for 120 volt
operation (plus or minus) and they tell you the maximum current,
therefore you have an approximate volt-amp rating for the motor. 
Assuming the power factor of the small motors is fairly similar (I
don't know that but I would guess they are) you now have an
APPROXIMATION of the amount of work the motor can do.  In the case of
the 13.8 volts, no other information is given.  You therefore have NO
idea of the input power of the transmitter, etc.  Of course, in the
case of the vacuum, impeller design, housing design, air flow routing,
and numerous other factors come in to play but, short of an industry
standard rating, it's better than nothing.
Tom



-- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ron,
 
 That is a good question.  The answer is that one is not supposed to
connect
 any load greater than 12 amperes to an outlet rated at 15 amperes,
that is,
 a NEMA 5-15R receptacle.  The NEC allows two or more 15-ampere-rated
outlets
 to be installed on a 20-ampere branch circuit (wired with 12 AWG
conductors
 and a 20A fuse or circuit breaker), but the limit of 12 amperes on each
 outlet still applies.
 
 Proof of this restriction is evident in the vacuum cleaner wars of a
 decade or so ago.  Hoover came out with a vacuum cleaner with 7
amperes of
 cleaning power.  Then Bissel came out with a unit claiming 9 amperes of
 cleaning power.  Other vacuum cleaner makers entered the fray until
all of
 the brands had units with 12 amperes of cleaning power.  The
reason that
 nobody offered a unit with 13 amperes of cleaning power is because they
 would then have to equip that unit with a NEMA 5-20P plug and at least a
 14/3 power cord.  Most older homes do not have NEMA 5-20R outlets,
so such a
 vacuum cleaner could not be plugged in to the outlets in most homes.
 Besides, there is no credibility to a laughable rating of cleaning
power
 expressed in amperes!  That is about as silly as claiming that a mobile
 radio has 13.8 volts of talk power!
 
 Back to your second question.  By definition, a 15-ampere-rated branch
 circuit has circuit conductors of #14 AWG or larger, and is
protected by a
 fuse or circuit breaker rated at 15 amperes.  The fuse or circuit
breaker
 should hold indefinitely at 15 amperes, but the NEC recognizes that
allowing
 100% of rated current is never a good idea, since wiring in attics may
 already be in a very hot environment.  Therefore, the NEC requires
that no
 ordinary branch circuit be permitted to be loaded more than 80% of the
 circuit rating.  That's where the 12 and 16 ampere limits come from.
 
 Another issue is voltage drop, which is directly proportional to circuit
 loading.  Circuits that are loaded to 100% of rating will probably have
 excessive voltage drop, which leads to inefficient operation.  Good
 electrical design dictates that the wire size be increased for long
runs, to
 keep the voltage drop below 3%.  Moreover, an adequate electrical supply
 system should never experience more than 80% loading of any circuit.
 Very
 heavy single loads should have a dedicated branch circuit of suitable
 capacity, with a single outlet.
 
 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright
 Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 8:07 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power
Supplies
 
 Eric,
 
 Question about the outlets. Is the only reason one cannot get more
than 12
 amp from a 15 amp outlet is the rules so if one is designing a power
system
 if more than 12 amps is required one has to put in 20 amp outlet to meet
 code???
 
 I would think one could get 15 amps due to the breaker able to
handle it or
 are 15 amp breakers designed to trip at just above 12 amps???
 
 73, ron, n9ee/r
 
 From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net 
 Date: 2008/07/17 Thu PM 11:00:53 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 
 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
 
  
 Wayne,
 
 That is not exactly true. An outlet rated at 15 amperes cannot have any
 load greater than 12 amperes plugged into it. An outlet rated at 20
amperes
 cannot have any load greater than 16 amperes plugged into it. This is
 clearly stated in Article 210.21(B)(2) of the National Electrical
Code. A
 device that actually draws 20 amperes at 120 VAC must be plugged
into an
 outlet and branch circuit rated at 30 amperes.
 
 When load currents exceed 16 amperes at 120 VAC, it's time to
consider a
 branch circuit rated at 208 or 240 VAC. Most repeaters and
high-power PAs
 have optional connections to enable operation on 208

Re: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-18 Thread Ron Wright
Eric,

Thanks for the info.  

Yes we all went thru the vacuum cleaner current junk days.  I guess was good 
marketing tool.  Now it is how quiet and how it will clean your home air.  
Still little about how well it will clean what you want it for except for 
picking up MMs and bolts.  The bowling ball pick up is still hanging in there, 
hi.

So we can get 15 Amps out of a 15 amp 14-2 w/G circuit if needed.  That was my 
question.  The safety factor is my concern.  We all know we should normally not 
load 100%, but how does one know in typical life.  Most users don't even know 
what load is let alone how much it is.  That is where the NEC comes in to give 
some assurance it is safe, not workable, but safe and that is how it should be.

73, ron, n9ee/r






From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2008/07/17 Thu PM 11:47:03 EDT
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies


Ron,

That is a good question.  The answer is that one is not supposed to connect
any load greater than 12 amperes to an outlet rated at 15 amperes, that is,
a NEMA 5-15R receptacle.  The NEC allows two or more 15-ampere-rated outlets
to be installed on a 20-ampere branch circuit (wired with 12 AWG conductors
and a 20A fuse or circuit breaker), but the limit of 12 amperes on each
outlet still applies.

Proof of this restriction is evident in the vacuum cleaner wars of a
decade or so ago.  Hoover came out with a vacuum cleaner with 7 amperes of
cleaning power.  Then Bissel came out with a unit claiming 9 amperes of
cleaning power.  Other vacuum cleaner makers entered the fray until all of
the brands had units with 12 amperes of cleaning power.  The reason that
nobody offered a unit with 13 amperes of cleaning power is because they
would then have to equip that unit with a NEMA 5-20P plug and at least a
14/3 power cord.  Most older homes do not have NEMA 5-20R outlets, so such a
vacuum cleaner could not be plugged in to the outlets in most homes.
Besides, there is no credibility to a laughable rating of cleaning power
expressed in amperes!  That is about as silly as claiming that a mobile
radio has 13.8 volts of talk power!

Back to your second question.  By definition, a 15-ampere-rated branch
circuit has circuit conductors of #14 AWG or larger, and is protected by a
fuse or circuit breaker rated at 15 amperes.  The fuse or circuit breaker
should hold indefinitely at 15 amperes, but the NEC recognizes that allowing
100% of rated current is never a good idea, since wiring in attics may
already be in a very hot environment.  Therefore, the NEC requires that no
ordinary branch circuit be permitted to be loaded more than 80% of the
circuit rating.  That's where the 12 and 16 ampere limits come from.

Another issue is voltage drop, which is directly proportional to circuit
loading.  Circuits that are loaded to 100% of rating will probably have
excessive voltage drop, which leads to inefficient operation.  Good
electrical design dictates that the wire size be increased for long runs, to
keep the voltage drop below 3%.  Moreover, an adequate electrical supply
system should never experience more than 80% loading of any circuit.  Very
heavy single loads should have a dedicated branch circuit of suitable
capacity, with a single outlet.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 8:07 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

Eric,

Question about the outlets. Is the only reason one cannot get more than 12
amp from a 15 amp outlet is the rules so if one is designing a power system
if more than 12 amps is required one has to put in 20 amp outlet to meet
code???

I would think one could get 15 amps due to the breaker able to handle it or
are 15 amp breakers designed to trip at just above 12 amps???

73, ron, n9ee/r

From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net 
Date: 2008/07/17 Thu PM 11:00:53 EDT
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

 
Wayne,

That is not exactly true. An outlet rated at 15 amperes cannot have any
load greater than 12 amperes plugged into it. An outlet rated at 20 amperes
cannot have any load greater than 16 amperes plugged into it. This is
clearly stated in Article 210.21(B)(2) of the National Electrical Code. A
device that actually draws 20 amperes at 120 VAC must be plugged into an
outlet and branch circuit rated at 30 amperes.

When load currents exceed 16 amperes at 120 VAC, it's time to consider a
branch circuit rated at 208 or 240 VAC. Most repeaters and high-power PAs
have optional connections to enable operation on 208 or 240 VAC. Keep in
mind that there is no such voltage as 220 although that obsolete figure

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-18 Thread Dave
Well stated Ron!  


Ron Wright wrote:

Eric,

Thanks for the info.  


Yes we all went thru the vacuum cleaner current junk days.  I guess was good 
marketing tool.  Now it is how quiet and how it will clean your home air.  Still 
little about how well it will clean what you want it for except for picking up 
MMs and bolts.  The bowling ball pick up is still hanging in there, hi.

So we can get 15 Amps out of a 15 amp 14-2 w/G circuit if needed.  That was my 
question.  The safety factor is my concern.  We all know we should normally not 
load 100%, but how does one know in typical life.  Most users don't even know 
what load is let alone how much it is.  That is where the NEC comes in to give 
some assurance it is safe, not workable, but safe and that is how it should be.

73, ron, n9ee/r






  

From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2008/07/17 Thu PM 11:47:03 EDT
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies



  
   
Ron,


That is a good question.  The answer is that one is not supposed to connect
any load greater than 12 amperes to an outlet rated at 15 amperes, that is,
a NEMA 5-15R receptacle.  The NEC allows two or more 15-ampere-rated outlets
to be installed on a 20-ampere branch circuit (wired with 12 AWG conductors
and a 20A fuse or circuit breaker), but the limit of 12 amperes on each
outlet still applies.

Proof of this restriction is evident in the vacuum cleaner wars of a
decade or so ago.  Hoover came out with a vacuum cleaner with 7 amperes of
cleaning power.  Then Bissel came out with a unit claiming 9 amperes of
cleaning power.  Other vacuum cleaner makers entered the fray until all of
the brands had units with 12 amperes of cleaning power.  The reason that
nobody offered a unit with 13 amperes of cleaning power is because they
would then have to equip that unit with a NEMA 5-20P plug and at least a
14/3 power cord.  Most older homes do not have NEMA 5-20R outlets, so such a
vacuum cleaner could not be plugged in to the outlets in most homes.
Besides, there is no credibility to a laughable rating of cleaning power
expressed in amperes!  That is about as silly as claiming that a mobile
radio has 13.8 volts of talk power!

Back to your second question.  By definition, a 15-ampere-rated branch
circuit has circuit conductors of #14 AWG or larger, and is protected by a
fuse or circuit breaker rated at 15 amperes.  The fuse or circuit breaker
should hold indefinitely at 15 amperes, but the NEC recognizes that allowing
100% of rated current is never a good idea, since wiring in attics may
already be in a very hot environment.  Therefore, the NEC requires that no
ordinary branch circuit be permitted to be loaded more than 80% of the
circuit rating.  That's where the 12 and 16 ampere limits come from.

Another issue is voltage drop, which is directly proportional to circuit
loading.  Circuits that are loaded to 100% of rating will probably have
excessive voltage drop, which leads to inefficient operation.  Good
electrical design dictates that the wire size be increased for long runs, to
keep the voltage drop below 3%.  Moreover, an adequate electrical supply
system should never experience more than 80% loading of any circuit.  Very
heavy single loads should have a dedicated branch circuit of suitable
capacity, with a single outlet.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 8:07 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

Eric,

Question about the outlets. Is the only reason one cannot get more than 12
amp from a 15 amp outlet is the rules so if one is designing a power system
if more than 12 amps is required one has to put in 20 amp outlet to meet
code???

I would think one could get 15 amps due to the breaker able to handle it or
are 15 amp breakers designed to trip at just above 12 amps???

73, ron, n9ee/r



From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net 
Date: 2008/07/17 Thu PM 11:00:53 EDT
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  
mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 


Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
  
Wayne,


That is not exactly true. An outlet rated at 15 amperes cannot have any
load greater than 12 amperes plugged into it. An outlet rated at 20 amperes
cannot have any load greater than 16 amperes plugged into it. This is
clearly stated in Article 210.21(B)(2) of the National Electrical Code. A
device that actually draws 20 amperes at 120 VAC must be plugged into an
outlet and branch circuit rated at 30 amperes.

When load currents exceed 16 amperes at 120 VAC, it's time to consider a
branch circuit rated at 208 or 240 VAC. Most repeaters and high-power PAs
have optional connections to enable operation on 208 or 240 VAC. Keep

Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-18 Thread Gary Glaenzer
breakers are ratedat '80%'

it's not the wire or outlets  that determine load allowed, but (breaker rating) 
x 80%


  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Wright 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 10:07 PM
  Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies


  Eric,

  Question about the outlets. Is the only reason one cannot get more than 12 
amp from a 15 amp outlet is the rules so if one is designing a power system if 
more than 12 amps is required one has to put in 20 amp outlet to meet code???

  I would think one could get 15 amps due to the breaker able to handle it or 
are 15 amp breakers designed to trip at just above 12 amps???

  73, ron, n9ee/r

  From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: 2008/07/17 Thu PM 11:00:53 EDT
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

   
  Wayne,
  
  That is not exactly true. An outlet rated at 15 amperes cannot have any
  load greater than 12 amperes plugged into it. An outlet rated at 20 amperes
  cannot have any load greater than 16 amperes plugged into it. This is
  clearly stated in Article 210.21(B)(2) of the National Electrical Code. A
  device that actually draws 20 amperes at 120 VAC must be plugged into an
  outlet and branch circuit rated at 30 amperes.
  
  When load currents exceed 16 amperes at 120 VAC, it's time to consider a
  branch circuit rated at 208 or 240 VAC. Most repeaters and high-power PAs
  have optional connections to enable operation on 208 or 240 VAC. Keep in
  mind that there is no such voltage as 220 although that obsolete figure is
  still in common usage. The nominal single-phase voltage supplied to
  residences is 120/240 VAC, while the electrical supply to light commercial,
  apartment complexes, and condos is usually 120/208 VAC derived from two
  phases of a three-phase distribution system. I mention this because a
  fellow Ham who now lives in a large apartment complex mentioned to me that
  his 500 watt rig that worked fine in his former home was not putting out
  full power at his new location. The cause was revealed when he measured his
  line-to-line voltage as close to 208 VAC. His power amplifier was rated for
  240 VAC, but was starving when fed 87% of its design voltage. A
  commercially-available boost transformer was installed to give him a true
  240 VAC supply. Problem solved.
  
  73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
   
  
  -Original Message-
  From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne
  Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 11:01 AM
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
  
  To properly plug in an item that is a 20 amp draw. etc., one should 
  install a 20 amp outlet.
   This can be single or duplex, and is readily spotted (if dual purpose) by
  
  the fact that one side will be flat instead of vertical, or have both 
  horizontal and vertical on that side.
   the flat/horizontal is on the neutral side.
   Not to be confused with a similar looking outlet for 250 volts, which has
  
  two flats , and one has vertical as well on the left side, looking at the 
  front with the ground hole down.
  
  Anyway, there are oulets made for 20 or more amps, which are different 
  than the 15 amp common outlets.
  
  local ordinances can often be more stringent than even the NEC codes.
  
  of course, if you are running a high power repeater, you would probably 
  wish to put it on a circuit breaker by itself.
   But ordinary house wiring normally has several outlets wired in series 
   from one breaker, and is NEC approved that way.
   Shop and Industrial become another matter, ha ha ha...
  
  Wayne WA2YNE
  
  On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 20:08:33 -0500, Bruce Bagwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  wrote:
  
   I figured that was A local code, not NEC. The only reason I can think 
   of for that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga wires. While 
   we all know, in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung along will not all 
   have 15 amp or higher loads in EACH outlet. However, theoretically, each 
   outlet could have A 20 amp load plugged into it.That is probably why 
   some pencil pusher decided each outlet needs its own wire. (Never mind 
   the fact the breaker would trip regardless of what is plugged into each 
   outlet or the number of wires leading to said outlets, but that's 
   another crazy thread) As for the Breaker Box, I would assume each also 
   has its own breaker. Trying to stuff more than one wire into A breaker 
   would more fun than I care to have.
  
   Bruce
   KE5TPN
  
  
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  Yahoo! Groups Links
  
   

  Ron Wright, N9EE
  727-376-6575
  MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
  Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
  No tone, all are welcome.



   
No virus

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-17 Thread Wayne
  To properly plug in an item that is a 20 amp draw. etc., one should  
install a 20 amp outlet.
  This can be single or duplex, and is readily spotted (if dual purpose) by  
the fact that one side will be flat instead of vertical, or have both  
horizontal and vertical on that side.
  the flat/horizontal is on the neutral side.
  Not to be confused with a similar looking outlet for 250 volts, which has  
two flats , and one has vertical as well on the left side, looking at the  
front with the ground hole down.

  Anyway, there are oulets made for 20 or more amps, which are different  
than the 15 amp common outlets.

local ordinances can often be more stringent than even the NEC codes.

  of course, if you are running a high power repeater, you would probably  
wish to put it on a circuit breaker by itself.
  But ordinary house wiring normally has several outlets wired in series  
 from one breaker, and is NEC approved that way.
  Shop and Industrial become another matter, ha ha ha...

  Wayne WA2YNE



On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 20:08:33 -0500, Bruce Bagwell [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:

 I figured that was A local code, not NEC.  The only reason I can think  
 of for that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga wires.  While  
 we all know, in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung along will not all  
 have 15 amp or higher loads in EACH outlet. However, theoretically, each  
 outlet could have A 20 amp load plugged into it.That is probably why  
 some pencil pusher decided each outlet needs its own wire.  (Never mind  
 the fact the breaker would trip regardless of what is plugged into each  
 outlet or the number of wires leading to said outlets, but that's  
 another crazy thread) As for the Breaker Box, I would assume each also  
 has its own breaker. Trying to stuff more than one wire into A breaker  
 would more fun than I care to have.

 Bruce
 KE5TPN


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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-17 Thread Eric Lemmon
Wayne,

That is not exactly true.  An outlet rated at 15 amperes cannot have any
load greater than 12 amperes plugged into it.  An outlet rated at 20 amperes
cannot have any load greater than 16 amperes plugged into it.  This is
clearly stated in Article 210.21(B)(2) of the National Electrical Code.  A
device that actually draws 20 amperes at 120 VAC must be plugged into an
outlet and branch circuit rated at 30 amperes.

When load currents exceed 16 amperes at 120 VAC, it's time to consider a
branch circuit rated at 208 or 240 VAC.  Most repeaters and high-power PAs
have optional connections to enable operation on 208 or 240 VAC.  Keep in
mind that there is no such voltage as 220 although that obsolete figure is
still in common usage.  The nominal single-phase voltage supplied to
residences is 120/240 VAC, while the electrical supply to light commercial,
apartment complexes, and condos is usually 120/208 VAC derived from two
phases of a three-phase distribution system.  I mention this because a
fellow Ham who now lives in a large apartment complex mentioned to me that
his 500 watt rig that worked fine in his former home was not putting out
full power at his new location.  The cause was revealed when he measured his
line-to-line voltage as close to 208 VAC.  His power amplifier was rated for
240 VAC, but was starving when fed 87% of its design voltage.  A
commercially-available boost transformer was installed to give him a true
240 VAC supply.  Problem solved.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 11:01 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

  To properly plug in an item that is a 20 amp draw. etc., one should  
install a 20 amp outlet.
  This can be single or duplex, and is readily spotted (if dual purpose) by

the fact that one side will be flat instead of vertical, or have both  
horizontal and vertical on that side.
  the flat/horizontal is on the neutral side.
  Not to be confused with a similar looking outlet for 250 volts, which has

two flats , and one has vertical as well on the left side, looking at the  
front with the ground hole down.

  Anyway, there are oulets made for 20 or more amps, which are different  
than the 15 amp common outlets.

local ordinances can often be more stringent than even the NEC codes.

  of course, if you are running a high power repeater, you would probably  
wish to put it on a circuit breaker by itself.
  But ordinary house wiring normally has several outlets wired in series  
 from one breaker, and is NEC approved that way.
  Shop and Industrial become another matter, ha ha ha...

  Wayne WA2YNE



On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 20:08:33 -0500, Bruce Bagwell [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:

 I figured that was A local code, not NEC.  The only reason I can think  
 of for that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga wires.  While  
 we all know, in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung along will not all  
 have 15 amp or higher loads in EACH outlet. However, theoretically, each  
 outlet could have A 20 amp load plugged into it.That is probably why  
 some pencil pusher decided each outlet needs its own wire.  (Never mind  
 the fact the breaker would trip regardless of what is plugged into each  
 outlet or the number of wires leading to said outlets, but that's  
 another crazy thread) As for the Breaker Box, I would assume each also  
 has its own breaker. Trying to stuff more than one wire into A breaker  
 would more fun than I care to have.

 Bruce
 KE5TPN


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Yahoo! Groups Links






Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-17 Thread Ron Wright
Eric,

Question about the outlets.  Is the only reason one cannot get more than 12 amp 
from a 15 amp outlet is the rules so if one is designing a power system if more 
than 12 amps is required one has to put in 20 amp outlet to meet code???

I would think one could get 15 amps due to the breaker able to handle it or are 
15 amp breakers designed to trip at just above 12 amps???

73, ron, n9ee/r



From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2008/07/17 Thu PM 11:00:53 EDT
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies


Wayne,

That is not exactly true.  An outlet rated at 15 amperes cannot have any
load greater than 12 amperes plugged into it.  An outlet rated at 20 amperes
cannot have any load greater than 16 amperes plugged into it.  This is
clearly stated in Article 210.21(B)(2) of the National Electrical Code.  A
device that actually draws 20 amperes at 120 VAC must be plugged into an
outlet and branch circuit rated at 30 amperes.

When load currents exceed 16 amperes at 120 VAC, it's time to consider a
branch circuit rated at 208 or 240 VAC.  Most repeaters and high-power PAs
have optional connections to enable operation on 208 or 240 VAC.  Keep in
mind that there is no such voltage as 220 although that obsolete figure is
still in common usage.  The nominal single-phase voltage supplied to
residences is 120/240 VAC, while the electrical supply to light commercial,
apartment complexes, and condos is usually 120/208 VAC derived from two
phases of a three-phase distribution system.  I mention this because a
fellow Ham who now lives in a large apartment complex mentioned to me that
his 500 watt rig that worked fine in his former home was not putting out
full power at his new location.  The cause was revealed when he measured his
line-to-line voltage as close to 208 VAC.  His power amplifier was rated for
240 VAC, but was starving when fed 87% of its design voltage.  A
commercially-available boost transformer was installed to give him a true
240 VAC supply.  Problem solved.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 11:01 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

To properly plug in an item that is a 20 amp draw. etc., one should  
install a 20 amp outlet.
  This can be single or duplex, and is readily spotted (if dual purpose) by

the fact that one side will be flat instead of vertical, or have both  
horizontal and vertical on that side.
  the flat/horizontal is on the neutral side.
  Not to be confused with a similar looking outlet for 250 volts, which has

two flats , and one has vertical as well on the left side, looking at the  
front with the ground hole down.

Anyway, there are oulets made for 20 or more amps, which are different  
than the 15 amp common outlets.

local ordinances can often be more stringent than even the NEC codes.

of course, if you are running a high power repeater, you would probably  
wish to put it on a circuit breaker by itself.
  But ordinary house wiring normally has several outlets wired in series  
 from one breaker, and is NEC approved that way.
  Shop and Industrial become another matter, ha ha ha...

Wayne WA2YNE

On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 20:08:33 -0500, Bruce Bagwell [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:

 I figured that was A local code, not NEC.  The only reason I can think  
 of for that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga wires.  While  
 we all know, in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung along will not all  
 have 15 amp or higher loads in EACH outlet. However, theoretically, each  
 outlet could have A 20 amp load plugged into it.That is probably why  
 some pencil pusher decided each outlet needs its own wire.  (Never mind  
 the fact the breaker would trip regardless of what is plugged into each  
 outlet or the number of wires leading to said outlets, but that's  
 another crazy thread) As for the Breaker Box, I would assume each also  
 has its own breaker. Trying to stuff more than one wire into A breaker  
 would more fun than I care to have.

 Bruce
 KE5TPN


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Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/



Yahoo! Groups Links

   
 


Ron Wright, N9EE
727-376-6575
MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
No tone, all are welcome.




Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-17 Thread MCH
Sounds like a government spec... when 15 is really 12.

Joe M.

Ron Wright wrote:
 I would think one could get 15 amps due to the breaker able to handle it or 
 are 15 amp breakers designed to trip at just above 12 amps???
 
 73, ron, n9ee/r


Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-14 Thread Wayne
  I have seen instances where a light switch to a ceiling fixture was put  
in the neutral side, nd not the hot side of the line.

  I have also seen where some hams, to save money, were using 120 volt 3  
prong plugs for their mobile radios. Thinking what would happen if someone  
else plugged it into a 120 volt outlet, ha ha ha.
  I also dislike 12 volt light fixtures that take a 12 volt screw in bulb  
of the same size as a 120 volt light bulb. Took me a while to figure that  
out on a 5th wheel I had, and putting a 120volt bulb in it would not  
light. A previous owner had rewired the light over the bathroom sink for  
120 volts, but using zip cord.

  At one corner of a 10 acre plot, of which I own 1/4, there is an  
electrical box on a pole, no switches or breakers, that still has 430  
volts coming into it.
  they use a lot of supposed 480 volt motors around here for oil well  
pumps. They wire two transformer outputs in series to get the 480. Some,  
but not all, meter boxes are marked 480 volts.

  I see a lot of poor wiring around this area. I even found one outlet in  
this house, one of only two left, that had the white and black wires  
reversed. I redid that before I hooke that line up to a new breaker panel.  
I had to extend the wire, but did that in a box to be sure of what I had.
  I always tend to check each outlet to be sure it is wired correctly.
  Most of the ceiling lights that had been in here were poorly wired with  
no boxes at the fixtures. I'm putting in boxes where I will be wiring  
ceiling/wall fixtures.
  It doesn't take that much to do a proper wiring job, compared to a lousy  
jb with possible hazards...
  YMMV

  Wayne WA2YNE


On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 01:39:50 -0500, Bruce Bagwell [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:



 There are many makes of voltage sensing sticks one can get basically  
 anywhere.

 Many times I have seen outlets Converted to 3 wire from two, only to  
 find all they did was ground from the neutral wire.  That means I get  
 all kinds of RFI and if the Ground ever dropped, it would be HOT just  
 from the return from the light bulb or whatever.

 BTW, those cheap Testers will NOT detect HOT/Ground/Neutral Reverse!

 If in doubt, run a wire from a known ground to your Meter and find what  
 wires are Hot

 I remember A house I rented, every time I touched the light  
 switch/outlet in the garage I got tickled
 Glad I knew what was going on or else I might have made full contact,  
 and I would not be typing this right now!
 Swapped the HOT/Neutral/Ground and all was OK!

 Always remember, just because the outlet is Grounded does not mean it  
 is really Grounded  Verify!

 Stay safe out there!

 Bruce Bagwell
 KE5TPN

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies  Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-07 Thread kb5vjy
It's funny that you should mention that... 

I am the Chief Engineer for 2 television stations where I live.  One 
of my transmitters is out of state in Arkansas.   I too built two 
identical buildings for my full power ATSC transmitters.  The 
building out of state was such a breeze!!!.. Because the square 
footage was less than X.. I didn't require any inspections, or 
strange permits The state feller showed up, looked up at the 
tower, had a cup of coffee, and asked questions not related to 
building, (hunting accually) and left.

HOWEVER.. IN Louisiana...  First I couldn't act as the General 
Contractor.. Then you have 2 different inspecting officials, Fire 
Marshall, and Local building inspector (which was sub contracted out 
to another company)  It was a living nightmare... When I started, I 
had to submit plans and drawings of this little 20x40' building. Then 
they wanted exact drawings of the electrical and plumbing for the 
building.  Well, if any of you have installed a Television 
transmitter lately, A lot of it is quite dynamic depending on 
location of the tower to the ice bridge, feed through points, and the 
location of the RF system.  It took a month and a half just to get 
the plans approved through the fire marshall... The rest is just down 
hill, including handicap accessable bathroom (uh..hello, you have to 
walk quite a bit to get to the building.  I'm afraid a hover-round 
isn't gonna make it.And this is NO offence to our disabled repeater 
builders)emergency lighting (the site has a huge backup generator 
that kicks on after 2 seconds of power failure), emergency egress 
signage (there are no walls except the exterior walls, and one door)

When it came to fire suspression systems, they couldn't figure out 
why I didn't want to use sprinklers.   A non conductive, non residue 
hand held fire suspression system finally was agreed upon.  My 
project in Louisiana cost double of my other one.  

In short... Building codes are NOT the same from state to state.  
Never assume that because it NEC compliant, that it will pass 
Louisiana's (or another state's) code.. 


73 de Joe KB5VJY

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Zeman 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It's funny you mention building construction. I work for a company 
that,
 under the original ownership in the 70's, built two identical
 facilities, one in California and one in Illinois. I work for the
 company in Illinois. The buildings were constructed to California 
code,
 and I'm sure you can imagine the problems we've had with the 
buildings
 in the winter.
 
 Chris
 N9XCR
 
 
 On Sun, 2008-07-06 at 13:12 -0500, Ron Wright wrote:
  Dave,
  
  This is a code requirement here in my county and think all of 
Florida.
  
  The code requirements for building is a county/state issue and 
vary.
  Most use the NEC code. Many have additional codes such as having 
wind
  resistance building. The way homes are constructed in the north 
would
  not be allowed in Florida mainly due to the wind. This is why we 
see
  so much concrete block construction with lots of requirements for
  attaching to foundation and roof securing. Just different part of 
the
  US.
  
  Same with electric code. For various reasons some additional 
changes
  are often made. Just because you have a code in your area does not
  mean it is in all of US. It is county mostly with some state 
codes. In
  my county there were NO building codes until the 70s. Can you 
believe
  this.
  
  73, ron, n9ee/r
  
  From: Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 11:43:50 EDT
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power 
Supplies
  Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
  
   
  Where is the requirement for running a separate feed to EACH 
OUTLET 
  REQUIRED? Not in the US A dedicated out is required for 
certain 
  special situations but not for each outlet elsewhere. There are
  certain 
  other requirements such as GFCI and AFCI. But, certainly no
  dedicated 
  feeder for each out.
  
  Ron Wright wrote:
   Gary,
  
   I've noticed in panels the safety ground and neutral go to a
  different buss bar. I had thought maybe because the neutral was
  sometimes, not now to code, smaller than the neutral. However, 
both
  got connected to the panel case. One can Ohm out neutral to 
safety and
  only see the resistance in the wiring to/from the panel. However, 
as
  you well know, should not be considered the same.
  
   In most plastic coated wireing I see today the safety wire is 
green
  coated, but some is still bare as you said. I've seen lots of 
this.
  
   Now in our county following NEC code the safety wire has to be 
same
  size as neutral . No more of the 14-2 w/G cable, but 14-3 one 
being
  safety ground color or bare. Also they are doing something 
different,
  a separate set of wires must be ran between panel and each 
outlet...no
  more of one wire to one outlet and then from here to another

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-07 Thread Ron Wright
Bruce,

Probably should kill this topic for it has radiacally changed from orginal 
posting and not really repeater related although AC power is a concern for 
about any repeater builder.

I think one reason for separate wiring to each outlet is the way so many are 
wired using the little spring loaded connections that require only stripping 
the wire and inserting...do not use the screw terminals that most all have.

Over time the spring tention weakens producing a poor connection at one outlet 
that can lead to a high resistance and heat.  Having multiple outlets on one 
string of wiring can amplify this situation.

I don't like the strip and insert connections and think they sould no be 
allowed.  Whenever I replace/repair an outlet I cut the wire and connect to the 
screws.

I am sure there are other reasons for separate wiring to each outlet.  The 
electric code has many not so obvious reasons for what they do mainly from 
experience.

73, ron, n9ee/r





From: Bruce Bagwell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2008/07/06 Sun PM 09:08:33 EDT
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies


I figured that was A local code, not NEC.  The only reason I can think of for 
that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga wires.  While we all know, 
in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung along will not all have 15 amp or 
higher loads in EACH outlet. However, theoretically, each outlet could have A 
20 amp load plugged into it.That is probably why some pencil pusher decided 
each outlet needs its own wire.  (Never mind the fact the breaker would trip 
regardless of what is plugged into each outlet or the number of wires leading 
to said outlets, but that's another crazy thread) As for the Breaker Box, I 
would assume each also has its own breaker. Trying to stuff more than one wire 
into A breaker would more fun than I care to have.  BruceKE5TPN 
Dave,

This is a code requirement here in my county and think all of Florida.

The code requirements for building is a county/state issue and vary. Most use 
the NEC code. Many have additional codes such as having wind resistance 
building. The way homes are constructed in the north would not be allowed in 
Florida mainly due to the wind. This is why we see so much concrete block 
construction with lots of requirements for attaching to foundation and roof 
securing. Just different part of the US.

Same with electric code. For various reasons some additional changes are often 
made. Just because you have a code in your area does not mean it is in all of 
US. It is county mostly with some state codes. In my county there were NO 
building codes until the 70s. Can you believe this.

73, ron, n9ee/r

From: Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 11:43:50 EDT
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due 
toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

 
Where is the requirement for running a separate feed to EACH OUTLET 
REQUIRED? Not in the US A dedicated out is required for certain 
special situations but not for each outlet elsewhere. There are certain 
other requirements such as GFCI and AFCI. But, certainly no dedicated 
feeder for each out.

Ron Wright wrote:
 Gary,

 I've noticed in panels the safety ground and neutral go to a different buss 
 bar. I had thought maybe because the neutral was sometimes, not now to 
 code, smaller than the neutral. However, both got connected to the panel 
 case. One can Ohm out neutral to safety and only see the resistance in the 
 wiring to/from the panel. However, as you well know, should not be 
 considered the same.

 In most plastic coated wireing I see today the safety wire is green coated, 
 but some is still bare as you said. I've seen lots of this.

 Now in our county following NEC code the safety wire has to be same size as 
 neutral . No more of the 14-2 w/G cable, but 14-3 one being safety ground 
 color or bare. Also they are doing something different, a separate set of 
 wires must be ran between panel and each outlet...no more of one wire to 
 one outlet and then from here to another outlet, etc. Can you imagine the 
 extra cost and labor. Not sure what they do at the breaker panel...put in 
 separate breaker for each outlet. Not sure if this NEC code or something to 
 do with the hurricane code we have here in Florida. We do lots of 
 construction very different here, hi.

 73, ron, n9ee/r




 
 From: Gary Glaenzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 10:19:49 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies 
 Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
 

 
 


 I don't know what part of the US you live in, but around here (western IL)
 the grounding conductor ('safety ground') is bare in Romex-type cable, and
 may or may not be insulated in conduit, and usually one size smaller than
 the 'main'conductors.

 Also, the GC goes

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-07 Thread Gary Glaenzer
Ron;

That requirement (if it is correct) is NOT part of the NEC

It would be a local thing, and quite frankly, I feel the original poster of
that info may have incorrect information

It would, among other things, limit a home to (42 - circuits used for other
than outlets) receptacles, there being only 42 circuit breaker spaces in a
200-amp panel

Gary


- Original Message - 
From: Ron Wright
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies



I am sure there are other reasons for separate wiring to each outlet. The
electric code has many not so obvious reasons for what they do mainly from
experience.

73, ron, n9ee/r

: 7/6/2008 5:26 AM



[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-07 Thread wb8art
I am not buying it.  Seems over the top and you would never have 
enough breaker panel posistions for all of the needed outlets. 
Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Bruce,
 
 Probably should kill this topic for it has radiacally changed from 
orginal posting and not really repeater related although AC power is 
a concern for about any repeater builder.
 
 I think one reason for separate wiring to each outlet is the way so 
many are wired using the little spring loaded connections that 
require only stripping the wire and inserting...do not use the screw 
terminals that most all have.
 
 Over time the spring tention weakens producing a poor connection at 
one outlet that can lead to a high resistance and heat.  Having 
multiple outlets on one string of wiring can amplify this situation.
 
 I don't like the strip and insert connections and think they sould 
no be allowed.  Whenever I replace/repair an outlet I cut the wire 
and connect to the screws.
 
 I am sure there are other reasons for separate wiring to each 
outlet.  The electric code has many not so obvious reasons for what 
they do mainly from experience.
 
 73, ron, n9ee/r
 
 
 
 
 
 From: Bruce Bagwell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2008/07/06 Sun PM 09:08:33 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
 
 
 I figured that was A local code, not NEC.  The only reason I 
can think of for that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga 
wires.  While we all know, in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung 
along will not all have 15 amp or higher loads in EACH outlet. 
However, theoretically, each outlet could have A 20 amp load plugged 
into it.That is probably why some pencil pusher decided each outlet 
needs its own wire.  (Never mind the fact the breaker would trip 
regardless of what is plugged into each outlet or the number of wires 
leading to said outlets, but that's another crazy thread) As for the 
Breaker Box, I would assume each also has its own breaker. Trying to 
stuff more than one wire into A breaker would more fun than I care to 
have.  BruceKE5TPN 
 Dave,
 
 This is a code requirement here in my county and think all of 
Florida.
 
 The code requirements for building is a county/state issue and 
vary. Most use the NEC code. Many have additional codes such as 
having wind resistance building. The way homes are constructed in the 
north would not be allowed in Florida mainly due to the wind. This is 
why we see so much concrete block construction with lots of 
requirements for attaching to foundation and roof securing. Just 
different part of the US.
 
 Same with electric code. For various reasons some additional 
changes are often made. Just because you have a code in your area 
does not mean it is in all of US. It is county mostly with some state 
codes. In my county there were NO building codes until the 70s. Can 
you believe this.
 
 73, ron, n9ee/r
 
 From: Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 11:43:50 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power 
Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
 
  
 Where is the requirement for running a separate feed to EACH 
OUTLET 
 REQUIRED? Not in the US A dedicated out is required for certain 
 special situations but not for each outlet elsewhere. There are 
certain 
 other requirements such as GFCI and AFCI. But, certainly no 
dedicated 
 feeder for each out.
 
 Ron Wright wrote:
  Gary,
 
  I've noticed in panels the safety ground and neutral go to a 
different buss bar. I had thought maybe because the neutral was 
sometimes, not now to code, smaller than the neutral. However, both 
got connected to the panel case. One can Ohm out neutral to safety 
and only see the resistance in the wiring to/from the panel. However, 
as you well know, should not be considered the same.
 
  In most plastic coated wireing I see today the safety wire is 
green coated, but some is still bare as you said. I've seen lots of 
this.
 
  Now in our county following NEC code the safety wire has to be 
same size as neutral . No more of the 14-2 w/G cable, but 14-3 one 
being safety ground color or bare. Also they are doing something 
different, a separate set of wires must be ran between panel and each 
outlet...no more of one wire to one outlet and then from here to 
another outlet, etc. Can you imagine the extra cost and labor. Not 
sure what they do at the breaker panel...put in separate breaker for 
each outlet. Not sure if this NEC code or something to do with the 
hurricane code we have here in Florida. We do lots of construction 
very different here, hi.
 
  73, ron, n9ee/r
 
 
 
 
  
  From: Gary Glaenzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 10:19:49 EDT
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls 
Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire

Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-07 Thread Ron Wright
Gary,

I got this info from a local licensed electrican who does a lot of home 
construction.  He was not happy either.  My wife owning a hair salon also has 
seen a number of required changes in  your shop.

I do not thing there is a breaker for each outlet, but more than one outlet 
wired to multiple outlets to a single breaker.  I had wondered about this since 
I spoke with the electrician.

There are lots of building requirements for homes now in our area that are not 
standard in most of the US.  We have to use concrete block construction, in the 
past of over 10 years ago one simple layed the blocks.  Now in all blocks 
vertical channels a steel rod must be inserted and connected to the foundation 
and the hole filled with concrete.  A few years ago only a few of these were 
required, but now all on the outer wall must be.

Since huricane Andrew where they found many stick/2x4 built homes that got so 
easily blown away and the other hurricanes in recent years many building 
changes have been mandated.  Many problems occured due to electical problems 
causing fires and other hazards and many changes have been made.  My home built 
in 1988 would not even come close to code today.  We now cannot use 14-2 w/g 
wire.  It is 14-3 or larger.  All breaker boxes must be assible from the 
outside.  Had a friend who was updating his box and found it had to go outside. 
 Definitly increased the cost.

There are many many codes not national that must be followed.  And for good 
reason.  Would not expect to have all to have to build for high wind in say 
Chicago.  They don't get too many hurricanes up theres.  They do get tornados, 
hi.

73, ron, n9ee/r




From: Gary Glaenzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2008/07/07 Mon AM 08:36:19 EDT
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies


Ron;

That requirement (if it is correct) is NOT part of the NEC

It would be a local thing, and quite frankly, I feel the original poster of
that info may have incorrect information

It would, among other things, limit a home to (42 - circuits used for other
than outlets) receptacles, there being only 42 circuit breaker spaces in a
200-amp panel

Gary

- Original Message - 
From: Ron Wright
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

I am sure there are other reasons for separate wiring to each outlet. The
electric code has many not so obvious reasons for what they do mainly from
experience.

73, ron, n9ee/r

: 7/6/2008 5:26 AM

   
 


Ron Wright, N9EE
727-376-6575
MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
No tone, all are welcome.




Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-06 Thread Dave
Where is the requirement for running a separate feed to EACH OUTLET 
REQUIRED?  Not in the US  A dedicated out is required for certain 
special situations but not for each outlet elsewhere.  There are certain 
other requirements such as GFCI and AFCI. But, certainly no dedicated 
feeder for each out.

Ron Wright wrote:
 Gary,

 I've noticed in panels the safety ground and neutral go to a different buss 
 bar.  I had thought maybe because the neutral was sometimes, not now to code, 
 smaller than the neutral.  However, both got connected to the panel case.  
 One can Ohm out neutral to safety and only see the resistance in the wiring 
 to/from the panel.  However, as you well know, should not be considered the 
 same.

 In most plastic coated wireing I see today the safety wire is green coated, 
 but some is still bare as you said.  I've seen lots of this.

 Now in our county following NEC code the safety wire has to be same size as 
 neutral . No more of the 14-2 w/G cable, but 14-3 one being safety ground 
 color or bare.   Also they are doing something different, a separate set of 
 wires must be ran between panel and each outlet...no more of one wire to one 
 outlet and then from here to another outlet, etc.  Can you imagine the extra 
 cost and labor.  Not sure what they do at the breaker panel...put in separate 
 breaker for each outlet.  Not sure if this NEC code or something to do with 
 the hurricane code we have here in Florida.  We do lots of construction very 
 different here, hi.

 73, ron, n9ee/r




   
 From: Gary Glaenzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 10:19:49 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies  
 Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
 

   



 I don't know what part of the US you live in, but around here (western IL)
 the grounding conductor ('safety ground') is bare in Romex-type cable, and
 may or may not be insulated in conduit, and usually one size smaller than
 the 'main' conductors.

 Also, the GC goes to one bus-bar, the neutral to another, the GC bus-bar is
 bonded ot the neutral at the SERVICE panel (incoming power, the one with the
 'Main' braker that shuts off all power), but is kept separate in all
 sub-panels, and from the sub-panel(s) there must be a separate GC (coded
 green) run back to the GC bus-bar in the service panel.

 


 Ron Wright, N9EE
 727-376-6575
 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
 Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
 No tone, all are welcome.



 



 Yahoo! Groups Links



   



Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies  Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-06 Thread Christopher Zeman
It's funny you mention building construction. I work for a company that,
under the original ownership in the 70's, built two identical
facilities, one in California and one in Illinois. I work for the
company in Illinois. The buildings were constructed to California code,
and I'm sure you can imagine the problems we've had with the buildings
in the winter.

Chris
N9XCR


On Sun, 2008-07-06 at 13:12 -0500, Ron Wright wrote:
 Dave,
 
 This is a code requirement here in my county and think all of Florida.
 
 The code requirements for building is a county/state issue and vary.
 Most use the NEC code. Many have additional codes such as having wind
 resistance building. The way homes are constructed in the north would
 not be allowed in Florida mainly due to the wind. This is why we see
 so much concrete block construction with lots of requirements for
 attaching to foundation and roof securing. Just different part of the
 US.
 
 Same with electric code. For various reasons some additional changes
 are often made. Just because you have a code in your area does not
 mean it is in all of US. It is county mostly with some state codes. In
 my county there were NO building codes until the 70s. Can you believe
 this.
 
 73, ron, n9ee/r
 
 From: Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 11:43:50 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
 Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
 
  
 Where is the requirement for running a separate feed to EACH OUTLET 
 REQUIRED? Not in the US A dedicated out is required for certain 
 special situations but not for each outlet elsewhere. There are
 certain 
 other requirements such as GFCI and AFCI. But, certainly no
 dedicated 
 feeder for each out.
 
 Ron Wright wrote:
  Gary,
 
  I've noticed in panels the safety ground and neutral go to a
 different buss bar. I had thought maybe because the neutral was
 sometimes, not now to code, smaller than the neutral. However, both
 got connected to the panel case. One can Ohm out neutral to safety and
 only see the resistance in the wiring to/from the panel. However, as
 you well know, should not be considered the same.
 
  In most plastic coated wireing I see today the safety wire is green
 coated, but some is still bare as you said. I've seen lots of this.
 
  Now in our county following NEC code the safety wire has to be same
 size as neutral . No more of the 14-2 w/G cable, but 14-3 one being
 safety ground color or bare. Also they are doing something different,
 a separate set of wires must be ran between panel and each outlet...no
 more of one wire to one outlet and then from here to another outlet,
 etc. Can you imagine the extra cost and labor. Not sure what they do
 at the breaker panel...put in separate breaker for each outlet. Not
 sure if this NEC code or something to do with the hurricane code we
 have here in Florida. We do lots of construction very different here,
 hi.
 
  73, ron, n9ee/r
 
 
 
 
  
  From: Gary Glaenzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 10:19:49 EDT
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power
 Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
  
 
  
  
 
 
  I don't know what part of the US you live in, but around here
 (western IL)
  the grounding conductor ('safety ground') is bare in Romex-type
 cable, and
  may or may not be insulated in conduit, and usually one size
 smaller than
  the 'main' conductors.
 
  Also, the GC goes to one bus-bar, the neutral to another, the GC
 bus-bar is
  bonded ot the neutral at the SERVICE panel (incoming power, the
 one with the
  'Main' braker that shuts off all power), but is kept separate in
 all
  sub-panels, and from the sub-panel(s) there must be a separate GC
 (coded
  green) run back to the GC bus-bar in the service panel.
 
  
 
 
  Ron Wright, N9EE
  727-376-6575
  MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
  Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
  No tone, all are welcome.
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 Ron Wright, N9EE
 727-376-6575
 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
 Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
 No tone, all are welcome.
 
 
 
 
  



[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

2008-07-06 Thread Bruce Bagwell
I figured that was A local code, not NEC.  The only reason I can think of for 
that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga wires.  While we all know, 
in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung along will not all have 15 amp or 
higher loads in EACH outlet. However, theoretically, each outlet could have A 
20 amp load plugged into it.That is probably why some pencil pusher decided 
each outlet needs its own wire.  (Never mind the fact the breaker would trip 
regardless of what is plugged into each outlet or the number of wires leading 
to said outlets, but that's another crazy thread) As for the Breaker Box, I 
would assume each also has its own breaker. Trying to stuff more than one wire 
into A breaker would more fun than I care to have. 

Bruce
KE5TPN

Dave,

This is a code requirement here in my county and think all of Florida.

The code requirements for building is a county/state issue and vary. Most use 
the NEC code. Many have additional codes such as having wind resistance 
building. The way homes are constructed in the north would not be allowed in 
Florida mainly due to the wind. This is why we see so much concrete block 
construction with lots of requirements for attaching to foundation and roof 
securing. Just different part of the US.

Same with electric code. For various reasons some additional changes are often 
made. Just because you have a code in your area does not mean it is in all of 
US. It is county mostly with some state codes. In my county there were NO 
building codes until the 70s. Can you believe this.

73, ron, n9ee/r

From: Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 11:43:50 EDT
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due 
toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

 
Where is the requirement for running a separate feed to EACH OUTLET 
REQUIRED? Not in the US A dedicated out is required for certain 
special situations but not for each outlet elsewhere. There are certain 
other requirements such as GFCI and AFCI. But, certainly no dedicated 
feeder for each out.

Ron Wright wrote:
 Gary,

 I've noticed in panels the safety ground and neutral go to a different buss 
 bar. I had thought maybe because the neutral was sometimes, not now to code, 
 smaller than the neutral. However, both got connected to the panel case. One 
 can Ohm out neutral to safety and only see the resistance in the wiring 
 to/from the panel. However, as you well know, should not be considered the 
 same.

 In most plastic coated wireing I see today the safety wire is green coated, 
 but some is still bare as you said. I've seen lots of this.

 Now in our county following NEC code the safety wire has to be same size as 
 neutral . No more of the 14-2 w/G cable, but 14-3 one being safety ground 
 color or bare. Also they are doing something different, a separate set of 
 wires must be ran between panel and each outlet...no more of one wire to one 
 outlet and then from here to another outlet, etc. Can you imagine the extra 
 cost and labor. Not sure what they do at the breaker panel...put in separate 
 breaker for each outlet. Not sure if this NEC code or something to do with 
 the hurricane code we have here in Florida. We do lots of construction very 
 different here, hi.

 73, ron, n9ee/r




 
 From: Gary Glaenzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 10:19:49 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies 
 Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
 

 
 


 I don't know what part of the US you live in, but around here (western IL)
 the grounding conductor ('safety ground') is bare in Romex-type cable, and
 may or may not be insulated in conduit, and usually one size smaller than
 the 'main' conductors.

 Also, the GC goes to one bus-bar, the neutral to another, the GC bus-bar is
 bonded ot the neutral at the SERVICE panel (incoming power, the one with the
 'Main' braker that shuts off all power), but is kept separate in all
 sub-panels, and from the sub-panel(s) there must be a separate GC (coded
 green) run back to the GC bus-bar in the service panel.

 


 Ron Wright, N9EE
 727-376-6575
 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
 Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
 No tone, all are welcome.





 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread Barry

Last month one the workers and I were inside a local shopping centre planning 
additions to the fibre and telephone when we found some cable ( power) just 
thrown in the dust above a vacant shop , live single phase 240 15 amp cable 
resting inside a steel roof truss covered with dust , happily I had my voltage 
pen with me so no harm but when the matter was broached with the manager he 
attempted to ignore it with a dismissive...
 He wont do that again :)
 The alarming thing was it was neutral and active reversed and had nothing to 
protect the naked copper 

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 04:47:25 +
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to 
Electrocution and Fire Hazards




















Nevertheless, I see inadequate and

sometimes dangerous electrical installations almost on a daily

basis...



Another war story that goes with your comment.  Shortly after I

retired, I took a job with a company that was located in a former

International Harvester building doing general maintenance type work.

 Part of that job included running over the rough concrete floors with

a cleaning machine.  In one unused part of the building, I saw a

length of several fairly heavy wires lying on the floor, near a puddle

of water (the roof leaked in that section of the building).  I thought

I'd just coil them up and hang them on a spike on the wall near where

they originated.  I picked up the wires and started to coil them up

and as I straightened them out I hit the end of the wires and they

soundly hit me back with one of the most painful shocks I can recall

receiving.  It turned out that those lines were part of a 440 volt,

three phase line that was never turned off when the equipment was

moved out of the area.  Once again, I was very lucky in that the only

injury was one gigantic scare over what might have happened.  Another

lesson, never ASS-ume that a line is dead until you confirm it.  Had

my other hand been grounded, I probably wouldn't be telling this story

now.

Tom



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:



 Don,

 

 Your dad is a man I can relate to and admire!  I am an ICBO/IAEI

Certified

 Electrical Inspector, although that has nothing whatsoever to do with my

 employment in the aerospace business.  Nevertheless, I see

inadequate and

 sometimes dangerous electrical installations almost on a daily basis  My

 next-door neighbor once called me over to check some wiring he added

to his

 garage for some power tools.  He had run some 18/2 SPT, commonly

called zip

 cord, from a light socket above his washing machine over to a

receptacle

 box he added for a drill press.  He said that the drill press stalled

 easily, and he often smelled a burning odor.  Duh!  Not only was

the zip

 cord extension a violation of several articles of the National

Electrical

 Code, but it was undersized for the load and there was no grounding

 conductor!  He was absolutely clueless about safe and legal electrical

 wiring.  At my urging, he hired a competent electrician to install a

new and

 dedicated branch circuit for his workbench.

 

 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY

   

 

 -Original Message-

 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com

 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Kupferschmidt

 Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 5:47 PM

 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com

 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to

 Electrocution and Fire Hazards

 

 Can you imagine this happening in a residential / commercial

bathroom where 

 the GFI is compromised?

 

 I'd relate that to old sparky in one of the state's pens, (say in

Florida)

 

 where the lethal death penality still exists.

 

 My Dad was an electrician and an electrical inspector for a city in 

 Wisconsin. I still remember to this day when he would be out inspecting 

 jobs, me along with him, and get really MAD when he saw something

like you 

 have just described.

 

 I'll never forget the day when he called up an electrical contractor

and 

 told him if he didn't fix the problem within 24 hours, he would yank

his 

 license and refer him to the police department for endangering the

public's 

 welfare.

 

 He was not a liked inspector, but was trusted within the electrical 

 community. And he slept very well at night.

 

 Don, KD9PT

 

 - Original Message - 

 From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net 

 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com

 mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 

 Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 11:55 AM

 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

Due to 

 Electrocution and Fire Hazards

 

  The primary danger is electrocution, most likely caused by

exchanging the

  neutral and ground leads inside the case. Although the power

supply will

  operate just fine when wired this way

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread Bruce Bagwell


There are many makes of voltage sensing sticks one can get basically anywhere.

Many times I have seen outlets Converted to 3 wire from two, only to find all 
they did was ground from the neutral wire.  That means I get all kinds of RFI 
and if the Ground ever dropped, it would be HOT just from the return from the 
light bulb or whatever.

BTW, those cheap Testers will NOT detect HOT/Ground/Neutral Reverse!

If in doubt, run a wire from a known ground to your Meter and find what wires 
are Hot

I remember A house I rented, every time I touched the light switch/outlet in 
the garage I got tickled
Glad I knew what was going on or else I might have made full contact, and I 
would not be typing this right now!
Swapped the HOT/Neutral/Ground and all was OK!

Always remember, just because the outlet is Grounded does not mean it is 
really Grounded  Verify!

Stay safe out there!

Bruce Bagwell
KE5TPN

If You Can Read This,
Thank A Teacher.

If You Are Reading This in ENGLISH,
Thank A Veteran or Current Soldier!

Support Our Troops!
For Without Them,
We Have No Support at All!



 The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found one in
the 
 garage that had line  neutral reversed. It is tagged as such,  is now 
 only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.

 Bob NO6B

My brother lived in a house with two wire plugs he changed to three wire
plugs. He just jumpered the neutral and ground together on the plugs.

It fooled the inspector with the little plug in light up gizmo.

I highly recomend one of these to anyone working around electricity.
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnit
edStates

Best $20.00 I spent.

tom n8ie



 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread Tom
Nate wrote: From the link you sent:  This product is discontinued.


Just to the right of the words, This product is discontinued is a
line that says, Fluke suggests... and lists the 1ACII with a link to
it.  Appears to be just a newer version of the same thing; I didn't
read what's different about it.  Anyway, they do still have one available.
Tom


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 On Jul 4, 2008, at 5:30 PM, Thomas Oliver wrote:
 
  I highly recomend one of these to anyone working around electricity.
 
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnit
  edStates
 
  Best $20.00 I spent.
 
  tom n8ie
 
 
  From the link you sent:  This product is discontinued.
 
 --
 Nate Duehr, WY0X
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]





Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread John J. Riddell
Yes there is a new version available from Fluke.
I have one as well as two of the older versions.
One is in my shirt pocket at all times !
If you ever tried to check a dead string of Christmas tree lights, then this 
thing is what you need.
It will show you where the bad bulb is located by not lighting up past the 
bulb.
If you check an outlet and see power on both the hot and the neutral, then 
the ground is missing.
They are very handy in checking a power panel to find the open breaker, or a 
blown glass fuse.

These are one of the best and simplest AC testers ever built.

John VE3AMZ

- Original Message - 
From: Tom [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 3:16 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due 
toElectrocution and Fire Hazards


 Nate wrote: From the link you sent:  This product is discontinued.


 Just to the right of the words, This product is discontinued is a
 line that says, Fluke suggests... and lists the 1ACII with a link to
 it.  Appears to be just a newer version of the same thing; I didn't
 read what's different about it.  Anyway, they do still have one available.
 Tom


 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 On Jul 4, 2008, at 5:30 PM, Thomas Oliver wrote:

  I highly recomend one of these to anyone working around electricity.
 
 http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnit
  edStates
 
  Best $20.00 I spent.
 
  tom n8ie


  From the link you sent:  This product is discontinued.

 --
 Nate Duehr, WY0X
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]




 



 Yahoo! Groups Links



 



RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread Richard
Try this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EJ332O
 
Richard
 http://www.n7tgb.net/ www.n7tgb.net
 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Nate Duehr
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 10:38 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards




On Jul 4, 2008, at 5:30 PM, Thomas Oliver wrote:

 I highly recomend one of these to anyone working around electricity.
 http://us.fluke.
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=Fl
ukeUnit com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnit
 edStates

 Best $20.00 I spent.

 tom n8ie

From the link you sent: This product is discontinued.

--
Nate Duehr, WY0X
[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:nate%40natetech.com com



 


RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread Daron Wilson
 The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found one in
the 
 garage that had line  neutral reversed. It is tagged as such,  is now 
 only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.


Uh...seems like it might be wiser to just rewire the receptacle?  Once
you've determined the device is miswired, I would suggest correcting it.



RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread no6b
At 7/5/2008 10:09, you wrote:

  The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found one in
the
  garage that had line  neutral reversed. It is tagged as such,  is now
  only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.
 

Uh...seems like it might be wiser to just rewire the receptacle? Once
you've determined the device is miswired, I would suggest correcting it.

Has no one seen my reply to this  like messages?

It will be fixed, but by a professional.  With my luck, the circuit breaker 
is probably wired to the neutral line as well so all I'd do is end up 
killing myself trying to fix a simple problem.  When I get the electrician 
out here, I'll have him check all that.  In the meantime, Christmas lights 
are safe to use on that outlet.

Bob NO6B



RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread Richard
I don't think people read the entire thread before firing off a reply.
I read your initial message, and was going to reply, but finished
reading the rest and changed my mind.
 
Richard
 http://www.n7tgb.net/ www.n7tgb.net
 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 11:06 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards



At 7/5/2008 10:09, you wrote:

  The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found
one in
the
  garage that had line  neutral reversed. It is tagged as such, 
is now
  only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.
 

Uh...seems like it might be wiser to just rewire the receptacle? Once
you've determined the device is miswired, I would suggest correcting
it.

Has no one seen my reply to this  like messages?

It will be fixed, but by a professional. With my luck, the circuit
breaker 
is probably wired to the neutral line as well so all I'd do is end up 
killing myself trying to fix a simple problem. When I get the
electrician 
out here, I'll have him check all that. In the meantime, Christmas
lights 
are safe to use on that outlet.

Bob NO6B



 


RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread Eric Lemmon
Bob,

Maybe they are, but probably not.  Christmas light sets must have a
polarized plug, in order to be NRTL listed.  The wider plug blade is
supposed to go into the wider slot of the receptacle which, in a
properly-wired outlet, will be the neutral (grounded) side of the power
circuit.  This arrangement ensures that the screw base of each lamp in the
string is close to  ground potential, minimizing the shock hazard if a
fingertip touches the metal when a lamp is replaced.

In your case, with reversed polarity on the power outlet, the lamp bases
will be hot (electrically) and thus pose a dangerous shock hazard.  It would
be a good idea to unplug the lights before changing out a lamp.  Of course,
if the light strings are not NRTL-listed and/or are polarized incorrectly,
the receptacle polarity becomes irrelevant.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
  

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 11:06 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due
toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

At 7/5/2008 10:09, you wrote:

snip

In the meantime, Christmas lights are safe to use on that outlet.

Bob NO6B



[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies  Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-05 Thread Tom
I wonder how this happened. I am sure the supply is UL listed (no
such thing as US approved) so looks like something got over looked or
a change occured at RS manufacturing.

The thing was made in CHINA!!!  Need I say more?  They just got
through killing hundreds of our pets, so far this is minor!  I don't
buy ANYTHING made in China since that happened.  I recently walked out
of the local dollar store because the product I had intended to buy
was made in China; that is now a way of life for me.  They could care
less about us once they get our money, much less our safety!
Tom


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I believe RS has to take the supply back and rewire or fix it.  It
sounds like an easy thing to do...just reverse the neutral and safety
ground as the plug enters the supply.
 
 If I had a number of these I would take back to RS and have them do
it.  They should put a label on it stating the mod had been done.
 
 I wonder if there are any charges such as return shipping charges.
 
 Although one can say if your outlet is wire correctly there would
not be a problem.  This is true, but with the millions of outlets in
the world and maybe one in your own home you have not yet tried with
the RS supply I would definitly want it wired correctly.
 
 I wonder how this happened.  I am sure the supply is UL listed (no
such thing as US approved) so looks like something got over looked or
a change occured at RS manufacturing.
 
 In the US the safety ground and neutral both go back to the same
place in the power panel (fuse box).  Most of the time both are
insulated with different color wires and often the neutral is a size
larger wire (not allowed with new code), but with the RS supply this
wire size would not be a problem.
 
 73, ron, n9ee/r
 
 
 
 
 From: Gary Glaenzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2008/07/05 Sat AM 08:21:43 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power
Supplies  Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
 
 
 I must have a half-dozen of
these http://www.mytoolstore.com/ideal/ide05-08.html  true, they
will NOT show ground/neutral reversal, but if your panel is wired
correctly, that's a non-issue     - Original Message -  
From:  Thomas OliverTo: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comSent:
Friday, July 04, 2008 6:30 PM  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re:  
RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards  
 
 
 
 
  The inspector I used checked every outlet in the   house,  found
one in
 the 
  garage that had line  neutral   reversed. It is tagged as such,
 is now 
  only used with fully   insulated loads such as Christmas lights.
 
  Bob NO6B
 
 My   brother lived in a house with two wire plugs he changed to
three   wire
 plugs. He just jumpered the neutral and ground together on the   plugs.
 
 It fooled the inspector with the little plug in light up   gizmo.
 
 I highly recomend one of these to anyone working around   electricity.

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnit
 edStates
 
 Best   $20.00 I spent.
 
 tom n8ie
 
 No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG -
http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.135 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1533 -
Release Date: 7/3/2008 7:19 PM  

 
 
 Ron Wright, N9EE
 727-376-6575
 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
 Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
 No tone, all are welcome.





[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread Tom
OT (sorta)...there is the possibility that the
unit may be plugged into an improperly-wired receptacle- which happens
often when do-it-yourselfers change out a receptacle.

Just a heads-up on the assumption that a professionally wired home is
safe.
When I bought the house I'm living in now, one of the selling points
was that the old knob-and-tube wiring had been replaced with new Romax
and a new 125 amp breaker panel (by a professional electrician).  All
of the outlets were the 3-wire type so I ASS-UMED that all was well
and good.  The house even passed a buyer's inspection as part of the
sale.  Well, things were not all as they appeared.  After getting
smacked a couple of times on the bench, when I knew I shouldn't
have, I started looking.  Although all of the outlets in the house
were the 3-wire type, only the ones in the kitchen (not even the
bathroom) had the third wire ground actually connected.  All of the
others were wired with 2-wire Romax and NO ground.  Now, if that isn't
a booby trap, I don't know what is.  So, unlike me, don't assume
anything.  Buy a cheap line tester and check every outlet you have in
the house.  It may save your skin!
Tom

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 The primary danger is electrocution, most likely caused by
exchanging the
 neutral and ground leads inside the case.  Although the power supply
will
 operate just fine when wired this way, there is the possibility that the
 unit may be plugged into an improperly-wired receptacle- which
happens often
 when do-it-yourselfers change out a receptacle.  If the receptacle
ground
 connection is poor or does not exist, the power supply enclosure can be
 energized at 120 VAC and pose a severe shock hazard.  Simple outlet
testers
 normally will not detect such wiring errors, leading to false
confidence.
 
 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
  
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mung Bungholio
 Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 8:49 AM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to
 Electrocution and Fire Hazards
 
 I have one so we will see what they do when I bring it back in.  It
hasn't
 burst into flames yet.
 
  
 
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark Thompson
 Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 12:48 AM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to
 Electrocution and Fire Hazards
 
  
 
 
 
 U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
 Office of Information and Public Affairs
 Washington, DC 20207
 
 FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
 July 2, 2008
 Release #08-319
 
 Firm's Recall Hotline: (800) 843-7422
 CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
 CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908
 
 RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards
 
 WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in 
 cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary
recall 
 of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled
 products 
 immediately unless otherwise instructed.
 
 Name of Product:  13.8V DC Power Supplies
 
 Units:  About 160,000
 
 Importer:  RadioShack Corp., of Fort Worth, Texas
 
 Hazard:  The recalled power supplies are wired incorrectly, posing 
electrocution and fire hazards.
 
 Incidents/Injuries:  None reported.
 
 Description:  The recall involves RadioShack 13.8V DC Power Supplies, 
 catalog numbers 22-507 and 22-508 with date codes from 
   08A04 through 01A08. 
 
 Date code format is MMAYY where MM is the month and YY is the year. The 
 catalog number and date code are located on the back of the power
supply. 
 Power Supplies with a green dot on the product and the product's
packaging 
 have already been repaired and are not included in the recall.
 
 Sold at:  RadioShack stores nationwide from October 2004 through
January 
 2008 for between $50 and $85.
 
 Manufactured in: China
 
 Remedy:  Consumers should unplug the recalled power supply
immediately and
 take it to 
 any RadioShack store for a free repair. Registered owners of the
recalled
 power supplies 
 will be mailed a notice.
 
 Consumer Contact:  For additional information, contact RadioShack at
 800-843-7422 anytime, 
 or visit the firm's website at:
 
  http://www.radioshack.com/recall
http://www.radioshack.com/recall
 
 
 To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the
recalled
 products, please go to:
 
  http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtm108/08319.html
 http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtm108/08319.html





Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread no6b
At 7/4/2008 15:21, you wrote:

OT (sorta)...there is the possibility that the
unit may be plugged into an improperly-wired receptacle- which happens
often when do-it-yourselfers change out a receptacle.

Just a heads-up on the assumption that a professionally wired home is
safe.
When I bought the house I'm living in now, one of the selling points
was that the old knob-and-tube wiring had been replaced with new Romax
and a new 125 amp breaker panel (by a professional electrician). All
of the outlets were the 3-wire type so I ASS-UMED that all was well
and good. The house even passed a buyer's inspection as part of the
sale. Well, things were not all as they appeared. After getting

The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found one in the 
garage that had line  neutral reversed.  It is tagged as such,  is now 
only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.

Bob NO6B



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread Gary Glaenzer
Wouldn't it be a lot better and safer to just shut off the power, pull it out 
of the box, and reverse the white and black wires, and have it right ?




  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 5:52 PM
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to 
Electrocution and Fire Hazards


  At 7/4/2008 15:21, you wrote:

  OT (sorta)...there is the possibility that the
  unit may be plugged into an improperly-wired receptacle- which happens
  often when do-it-yourselfers change out a receptacle.
  
  Just a heads-up on the assumption that a professionally wired home is
  safe.
  When I bought the house I'm living in now, one of the selling points
  was that the old knob-and-tube wiring had been replaced with new Romax
  and a new 125 amp breaker panel (by a professional electrician). All
  of the outlets were the 3-wire type so I ASS-UMED that all was well
  and good. The house even passed a buyer's inspection as part of the
  sale. Well, things were not all as they appeared. After getting

  The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found one in the 
  garage that had line  neutral reversed. It is tagged as such,  is now 
  only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.

  Bob NO6B



   
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.135 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1533 - Release Date: 7/3/2008 7:19 PM


Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread Joe
My mother-in-law's condo also had a problem.  My electrician neighbor 
came over to do some wiring work and found out that the outside outlets 
were not connected to the GFI.  We figured that the original contractors 
working the job were tired of resetting the GFI all day due to their 
faulty tools, so they bypassed the GFI.  Then they forgot to rewire it 
back when they were done.  These guys were prime candidates for the 
Darwin Award.

73, Joe, K1ike

Tom wrote:
 OT (sorta)...there is the possibility that the
 unit may be plugged into an improperly-wired receptacle- which happens
 often when do-it-yourselfers change out a receptacle.

 Just a heads-up on the assumption that a professionally wired home is
 safe.



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread Maire-Radios
why don't you just fix it and be safe?


  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:52 PM
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to 
Electrocution and Fire Hazards


  At 7/4/2008 15:21, you wrote:

  OT (sorta)...there is the possibility that the
  unit may be plugged into an improperly-wired receptacle- which happens
  often when do-it-yourselfers change out a receptacle.
  
  Just a heads-up on the assumption that a professionally wired home is
  safe.
  When I bought the house I'm living in now, one of the selling points
  was that the old knob-and-tube wiring had been replaced with new Romax
  and a new 125 amp breaker panel (by a professional electrician). All
  of the outlets were the 3-wire type so I ASS-UMED that all was well
  and good. The house even passed a buyer's inspection as part of the
  sale. Well, things were not all as they appeared. After getting

  The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found one in the 
  garage that had line  neutral reversed. It is tagged as such,  is now 
  only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.

  Bob NO6B



   

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread Dave Gomberg
At 15:52 7/4/2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found one in the
garage that had line  neutral reversed.  It is tagged as such,  is now
only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.

Bob NO6B

Bob, I am just curious.   Why not just fix it???



-- 
Dave Gomberg, San Francisco   NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com
All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html
- 



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread Dave Gomberg
At 15:52 7/4/2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found one in the
garage that had line  neutral reversed.  It is tagged as such,  is now
only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.

Bob NO6B

Bob, I am just curious.   Why not just fix it???



-- 
Dave Gomberg, San Francisco   NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com
All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html
- 



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread Thomas Oliver



 The inspector I used checked every outlet in the house,  found one in
the 
 garage that had line  neutral reversed.  It is tagged as such,  is now 
 only used with fully insulated loads such as Christmas lights.

 Bob NO6B

My brother lived in a house with two wire plugs he changed to three wire
plugs. He just jumpered the neutral and ground together on the plugs.

It fooled the inspector with the little plug in light up gizmo.


I highly recomend one of these to anyone working around electricity.
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnit
edStates

Best $20.00 I spent.

tom n8ie



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread no6b
At 7/4/2008 16:02, you wrote:

Wouldn't it be a lot better and safer to just shut off the power, pull it 
out of the box, and reverse the white and black wires, and have it right ?

High voltage  I don't get along, so I try to avoid messing with house 
wiring unless absolutely necessary.  Besides, I can't stand working with 
solid wire.

I need to have some other electrical work done in that area.  When I do, 
I'll have the electrician take care of it as part of the job.

Bob NO6B



[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to Electrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread Tom
Nevertheless, I see inadequate and
sometimes dangerous electrical installations almost on a daily
basis...

Another war story that goes with your comment.  Shortly after I
retired, I took a job with a company that was located in a former
International Harvester building doing general maintenance type work.
 Part of that job included running over the rough concrete floors with
a cleaning machine.  In one unused part of the building, I saw a
length of several fairly heavy wires lying on the floor, near a puddle
of water (the roof leaked in that section of the building).  I thought
I'd just coil them up and hang them on a spike on the wall near where
they originated.  I picked up the wires and started to coil them up
and as I straightened them out I hit the end of the wires and they
soundly hit me back with one of the most painful shocks I can recall
receiving.  It turned out that those lines were part of a 440 volt,
three phase line that was never turned off when the equipment was
moved out of the area.  Once again, I was very lucky in that the only
injury was one gigantic scare over what might have happened.  Another
lesson, never ASS-ume that a line is dead until you confirm it.  Had
my other hand been grounded, I probably wouldn't be telling this story
now.
Tom


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Don,
 
 Your dad is a man I can relate to and admire!  I am an ICBO/IAEI
Certified
 Electrical Inspector, although that has nothing whatsoever to do with my
 employment in the aerospace business.  Nevertheless, I see
inadequate and
 sometimes dangerous electrical installations almost on a daily basis  My
 next-door neighbor once called me over to check some wiring he added
to his
 garage for some power tools.  He had run some 18/2 SPT, commonly
called zip
 cord, from a light socket above his washing machine over to a
receptacle
 box he added for a drill press.  He said that the drill press stalled
 easily, and he often smelled a burning odor.  Duh!  Not only was
the zip
 cord extension a violation of several articles of the National
Electrical
 Code, but it was undersized for the load and there was no grounding
 conductor!  He was absolutely clueless about safe and legal electrical
 wiring.  At my urging, he hired a competent electrician to install a
new and
 dedicated branch circuit for his workbench.
 
 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
   
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Kupferschmidt
 Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 5:47 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due to
 Electrocution and Fire Hazards
 
 Can you imagine this happening in a residential / commercial
bathroom where 
 the GFI is compromised?
 
 I'd relate that to old sparky in one of the state's pens, (say in
Florida)
 
 where the lethal death penality still exists.
 
 My Dad was an electrician and an electrical inspector for a city in 
 Wisconsin. I still remember to this day when he would be out inspecting 
 jobs, me along with him, and get really MAD when he saw something
like you 
 have just described.
 
 I'll never forget the day when he called up an electrical contractor
and 
 told him if he didn't fix the problem within 24 hours, he would yank
his 
 license and refer him to the police department for endangering the
public's 
 welfare.
 
 He was not a liked inspector, but was trusted within the electrical 
 community. And he slept very well at night.
 
 Don, KD9PT
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net 
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 11:55 AM
 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
Due to 
 Electrocution and Fire Hazards
 
  The primary danger is electrocution, most likely caused by
exchanging the
  neutral and ground leads inside the case. Although the power
supply will
  operate just fine when wired this way, there is the possibility
that the
  unit may be plugged into an improperly-wired receptacle- which
happens 
  often
  when do-it-yourselfers change out a receptacle. If the receptacle
ground
  connection is poor or does not exist, the power supply enclosure
can be
  energized at 120 VAC and pose a severe shock hazard. Simple outlet 
  testers
  normally will not detect such wiring errors, leading to false
confidence.
 
  73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Mung
Bungholio
  Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 8:49 AM
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 
  Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
Due to
  Electrocution and Fire 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards

2008-07-04 Thread Nate Duehr

On Jul 4, 2008, at 5:30 PM, Thomas Oliver wrote:

 I highly recomend one of these to anyone working around electricity.
 http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnit
 edStates

 Best $20.00 I spent.

 tom n8ie


 From the link you sent:  This product is discontinued.

--
Nate Duehr, WY0X
[EMAIL PROTECTED]