RE: ECLSTS
when is the garden RR show at York, where Mike will have his portable track at. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Phil Paskos Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 12:30 AM To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam Subject: Re: ECLSTS This is primarily an electric Garden railway show at York, PA fairgrounds. This is a large 3 day event and for the first time Gauge-1 Live steam will be present courtesy of Mike Moore who will be bringing his multiloop dual gauge live steam portable track to the show. Members of the Pennsylvania Live steamers and others are welcome to attend and promote live steam there. Phil P
Re: ECLSTS
This is primarily an electric Garden railway show at York, PA fairgrounds. This is a large 3 day event and for the first time Gauge-1 Live steam will be present courtesy of Mike Moore who will be bringing his multiloop dual gauge live steam portable track to the show. Members of the Pennsylvania Live steamers and others are welcome to attend and promote live steam there. Phil P
RE: Air Supply (not the band)
If you use an air supply, what happens to the steam oil that is suppose to get to the cylinders? There is no steam to condense to displace the oil, wouldn't this mean that the cylinders are running without any lub. Bob -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chuck Walters Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 9:22 PM To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam Subject: RE: Air Supply (not the band) Vance, You are correct! I forgot cost and it does matter. I do not want to spend a fortune. My Best, Chuck Charles W. Walters Twin Lakes Railway CEO http://home.twcny.rr.com/twinlakesrw -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Vance Bass Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 9:00 PM To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam Subject: Re: Air Supply (not the band) Chuck, the quiet ones are gonna cost you a LOT. But, cost wasn't in your list of parameters, so I guess that's no problem. What you want is a two-stage, oil bath compressor. The ones you buy down at the hardware store won't cut it -- you'll probably have to go to an industrial supply. regards, -vance- Vance Bass Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
Re: Materials compatibility
Hey Spenceley, I have a length of .125" ID stainless that I just haven't installed yet. I need the olive fittings so that I can get it in there non-permanent. The only thing keeping me away from getting those is the desire to completely modify the valve gear on the loco. ;] I have this idea that I can (with help from a friend who's into robotics and custom lathe work) add slide valves and working outside valve-gear to the Ruby. One of these years. ;] Trot, the idea-filled, fox... At 07:13 PM 4/2/03, Geoff Spenceley wrote: Hey Solomon, I really enjoy your comments to our group. (except for cats!) That is an interesting point you make,-- the steam chest on the Ruby is very similar to air operated equipment and it works very well. The quick response on the Johnson Bar (which it is not really) depends on the porting design in the valve chest. I like the steam chest in my RC Merlin Matterhorn for example, it is excellent for radio control, on, off and stop all with one servo. I know what you mean about the long line to the steam chest-if I ever alky my Ruby, I'll heat that tube. With the factory butane production, a steam line (with some modifications and SS,) could also be run down the center flue. That condensation is bothersome and it wastes a lot of water. Keep your interest up, Geoff. /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon\ "There is a >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
RE: CA glue
Actually, I didn't ask for it at all. My wife did as she's the one he kept shredding. I was, and still am, all for full claws as I have moral difficulty modifying natures little angels for my own comfort. However, as a playful, hyper kitten he left holes and gouges in her arms every time he decided to go to ground or up a leg. Not her fault in the least though (truly.) It took a lot of convincing before I was even remotely comfortable with the idea but he seems to be ok now and luckily shows no signs of having taken it personally. ;] Again with the apologies... Trot, the gray, fox... At 07:11 PM 4/2/03, you wrote: Foxy Trot, Declawed your friend!--are you really his friend? Our sweet Emmie, outside and inside, with full claws, hardly, I repeat, hardly, ever scratches anything but her scratching post. However, the uprights for the elevated track are a bit shredded! I suppose that if you had your finger nails removed, you could use your teeth to pick up those tiny parts that fall on the floor! Sorry, (not really) you asked for it--With Chesire Cat smiles, Geoff With apologies to Daddy Cole. /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon\ "There is a >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
RE: Air Supply (not the band)
Vance, You are correct! I forgot cost and it does matter. I do not want to spend a fortune. My Best, Chuck Charles W. Walters Twin Lakes Railway CEO http://home.twcny.rr.com/twinlakesrw -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Vance Bass Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 9:00 PM To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam Subject: Re: Air Supply (not the band) Chuck, the quiet ones are gonna cost you a LOT. But, cost wasn't in your list of parameters, so I guess that's no problem. What you want is a two-stage, oil bath compressor. The ones you buy down at the hardware store won't cut it -- you'll probably have to go to an industrial supply. regards, -vance- Vance Bass Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
Re: Air Supply (not the band)
Chuck, the quiet ones are gonna cost you a LOT. But, cost wasn't in your list of parameters, so I guess that's no problem. What you want is a two-stage, oil bath compressor. The ones you buy down at the hardware store won't cut it -- you'll probably have to go to an industrial supply. regards, -vance- Vance Bass Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
Re: Materials compatibility
Hi JR, Please you appreciated the details. I forgot to mention the super elevated curves we can use in Guage 1, and sometimes need if caught out by the "dwell time"!. Also, what is a "Diesel", are they allowed on this website!!!???. Best Regards, Tony D. At 04:40 PM 4/2/03 -0500, JR May wrote: Tony D: Fantastic write up. Simply fantastic. I am amazed at how things are the same from full sized down to Gauge 1. Especially the delay or dwell time you talk about. Prior to heading into the curve on the smaller full sized engines we run, you have to give it some throttle or you die in the curve. The shay is the most instantly reactive, our 4-4-0T has the longest dwell.The diesels (25ton and 55 ton GE diesel electrics) are real dogs. Throttle must be provided before hitting the full impact of the curve or there is a noticeable slow down.I believe this is due in part to the time it takes for the relays to kick in as the generator RPMs come up. Very mushy, unless you really give the throttle a pull. Great write up. Many thanks. J.R. - Original Message - From: Anthony Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 3:34 PM Subject: Re: Materials compatibility > Hi JR, > Really good feedback, and I recognise many parrallel "actions and > reactions" in my 10mm scale coal burners. > I run two coal burners, one is controlled 'by hand", which has only two > controls, one for throttle and one for the blower, with a slip eccentric > controlling forward and reverse. Has a dummy Walschearts valve gear. > The second engine is radio controlled, with working Walschearts valve > gear, and R/C controls for the throttle, blower, Johnson Bar and cylinder > drain cocks. Also have an Aster U1 which also has full Walschearts valve > gear, hand controlled, and can be run on coal or alcohol. >With the slip eccentric engine, without radio control, after firing up > to 80PSI and with a red hot fire, I add 2-3 loads of coal before release. > The running technique is to use both wide throttle (1/2 turn open) > throttle, and 1/4 turn blower for starting off with 6-7 coaches, and once > under way, reduce throttle to 1/8 turn on throttle and 1/16 turn on the > blower. This gives a steady speed with enough throttle and blower, to pull > the load out of the tighter bends after natural slowing, but not allow an > "out of control" speed on the straights, heading for the curves. So almost > a set and release driving method. When the pressure drops to 30-35 lbs, > which is typically after 3-4 laps of my 300' track. I stop the engine, load > 2-3 loads of coal, open up the blower for approx. minute or so, build > pressure to 45-50psi, close blower to 1/16 turn and release again. I have > one really tight curve which brings the engine to almost a standstill, but > the blast increases greatly under this load, and pulls the load through > the curve and up to straight line speed again, till the next curve. > With the UI, a 4 cyl. compound with Walschearts and hand controlled. > The Johnson bar is set at full position, with throttle 1/2 turn open and > blower at 1/8 to start off. Once under way, and after approx 200', the > engine really takes off as all the cylinders warm up. So requires cutting > the Johnson bar to approx 40% cut-off, closing blower to < 1/32 turn and < > 1/8 throttle to achieve the same constant speed as above. However running > on alcohol does not give the really noisy blast when pulling out of the > curves. The U1 is a really quiet engine for its size. Engine will "cruise" > at 40-50psi for several laps before pressure drops as the alcohol runs out. > However the R/C Controlled coal burner with Walschearts is a totally > different animal. It has a "hand throttle" which can be pre-set according > to starting and running load, before release. This hand throttle remains > open at all times in pre-set position while running. The R/C control on the > Johnson bar, for forward, nuetral and reverse are infinately notchable on > the left hand control stick. The throttle and blower are controlled on the > right hand control stick, with the initial 1/4 of stick movement > controlling the blower, the next 2-3 notches control the cylinder drain > cocks, and remaining stick movement controls the throttle. Which is also > infinately notchable. At firing up, the hand throttle is closed, R/C > throttle closed, and R/C blower is opened when pressure reaches 45psi. > At 80-90psi at start-off, the Johnson bar is set in fully open > position, the throttle is opened through the blower position and cuts it > off. The drain cocks are opened through 2-3 notches, > to blow down steam and water and then throttle opened more to move off. As > the load is taken up, I reduce the Johnson bar by approx 10%, and back off > on the throttle. As speed is built up, I reduce the Johnson bar setting > again to approx 50%. Typical run
RE: Silver solder flux
Harry, Thanks for the tip on Harris, I was unaware of that brand. I asked about JM because one of the books that I have (UK origin) mentioned their products. I agree with your rant. At least they didn't prevent the use of the back button to leave the site (I hate that). Ken
Air Supply (not the band)
I have been using a portable electric bike pump for years as an air supply to run the engines with. It is so NOISY! Wife hates it. Dog runs and hides. Etc, etc, etc. Who has a slick solution to this dilemma? Requirements: quiet, variable (0 to 80 psi or so), easily attached to the engine, etc. My Best, Chuck Chuck Walters Twin Lakes Railway CEO http://home.twcny.rr.com/twinlakesrw
Re: Materials compatibility
Hey Solomon, I really enjoy your comments to our group. (except for cats!) That is an interesting point you make,-- the steam chest on the Ruby is very similar to air operated equipment and it works very well. The quick response on the Johnson Bar (which it is not really) depends on the porting design in the valve chest. I like the steam chest in my RC Merlin Matterhorn for example, it is excellent for radio control, on, off and stop all with one servo. I know what you mean about the long line to the steam chest-if I ever alky my Ruby, I'll heat that tube. With the factory butane production, a steam line (with some modifications and SS,) could also be run down the center flue. That condensation is bothersome and it wastes a lot of water. Keep your interest up, Geoff. As an interesting note, I have noticed the same thing on my R/C Ruby. >Johnson bar movements have an immediate response though, I suspect due to >the much shorter steam lines affected. No superheat installed on this >loco yet so all that line has to be filled/heated when the throttle is >adjusted. ;] > >Trot, the fox who wants _real_ valve gear...
RE: CA glue
Foxy Trot, Declawed your friend!--are you really his friend? Our sweet Emmie, outside and inside, with full claws, hardly, I repeat, hardly, ever scratches anything but her scratching post. However, the uprights for the elevated track are a bit shredded! I suppose that if you had your finger nails removed, you could use your teeth to pick up those tiny parts that fall on the floor! Sorry, (not really) you asked for it--With Chesire Cat smiles, Geoff With apologies to Daddy Cole. When my kitten was front-declawed a few months ago he came back the next day ready to go with no stiches. The digits had been 'glued' closed and he was fine to walk on them although you could tell it was somewhat uncomfortable to do. Made me wonder if they'd used a CA derivative but since I was working and my wife was not I never got to ask the vet. :] Kitten has since learned to let his teeth take over where the front claws used to penatrate! Trot, the fox with the worlds best, smartest, most intelligent kitten!
Re: Materials compatibility
As an interesting note, I have noticed the same thing on my R/C Ruby. Johnson bar movements have an immediate response though, I suspect due to the much shorter steam lines affected. No superheat installed on this loco yet so all that line has to be filled/heated when the throttle is adjusted. ;] Trot, the fox who wants _real_ valve gear... On Wed, 2 Apr 2003, JR May wrote: > Tony D: > Fantastic write up. Simply fantastic. I am amazed at how things are the > same from full sized down to Gauge 1. Especially the delay or dwell time > you talk about. Prior to heading into the curve on the smaller full sized > engines we run, you have to give it some throttle or you die in the curve. > The shay is the most instantly reactive, our > 4-4-0T has the longest dwell.The diesels (25ton and 55 ton GE diesel > electrics) are real dogs. Throttle must be provided before hitting the full > impact of the curve or there is a noticeable slow down.I believe this is > due in part to the time it takes for the relays to kick in as the generator > RPMs come up. Very mushy, unless you really give the throttle a pull. > > Great write up. Many thanks. > J.R. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
RE: CA glue
When my kitten was front-declawed a few months ago he came back the next day ready to go with no stiches. The digits had been 'glued' closed and he was fine to walk on them although you could tell it was somewhat uncomfortable to do. Made me wonder if they'd used a CA derivative but since I was working and my wife was not I never got to ask the vet. :] Kitten has since learned to let his teeth take over where the front claws used to penatrate! Trot, the fox with the worlds best, smartest, most intelligent kitten! On Wed, 2 Apr 2003, Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote: > I was conserned that the "No" could be interpreted as "NO!" which it > certainly was not. It was intended as a completly informative "No" with no > empaphsis or strenght in its use. I have just used CA quite often though I > did cringe a bit with the story of glueing the finger back together. > > The other night at dinner our six year old daughter did tell us a story > about her one friend that fell and cracked her head open. She told me she > had to go to the hospital and the doctor glued her head back together. My > wife an I laughed but maybe she really did get her head glued back together. > Kids are fun. > > Steve /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
Re: CA glue
I think I would opt for CA over staples or stitches, Never had CA and have had the latter. Seems CA is less painfull having had stitches minus any freezing. Cheers Ferd maybe she really did get her head glued back together.
Re: Materials compatibility
Tony D: Fantastic write up. Simply fantastic. I am amazed at how things are the same from full sized down to Gauge 1. Especially the delay or dwell time you talk about. Prior to heading into the curve on the smaller full sized engines we run, you have to give it some throttle or you die in the curve. The shay is the most instantly reactive, our 4-4-0T has the longest dwell.The diesels (25ton and 55 ton GE diesel electrics) are real dogs. Throttle must be provided before hitting the full impact of the curve or there is a noticeable slow down.I believe this is due in part to the time it takes for the relays to kick in as the generator RPMs come up. Very mushy, unless you really give the throttle a pull. Great write up. Many thanks. J.R. - Original Message - From: Anthony Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 3:34 PM Subject: Re: Materials compatibility > Hi JR, > Really good feedback, and I recognise many parrallel "actions and > reactions" in my 10mm scale coal burners. > I run two coal burners, one is controlled 'by hand", which has only two > controls, one for throttle and one for the blower, with a slip eccentric > controlling forward and reverse. Has a dummy Walschearts valve gear. > The second engine is radio controlled, with working Walschearts valve > gear, and R/C controls for the throttle, blower, Johnson Bar and cylinder > drain cocks. Also have an Aster U1 which also has full Walschearts valve > gear, hand controlled, and can be run on coal or alcohol. >With the slip eccentric engine, without radio control, after firing up > to 80PSI and with a red hot fire, I add 2-3 loads of coal before release. > The running technique is to use both wide throttle (1/2 turn open) > throttle, and 1/4 turn blower for starting off with 6-7 coaches, and once > under way, reduce throttle to 1/8 turn on throttle and 1/16 turn on the > blower. This gives a steady speed with enough throttle and blower, to pull > the load out of the tighter bends after natural slowing, but not allow an > "out of control" speed on the straights, heading for the curves. So almost > a set and release driving method. When the pressure drops to 30-35 lbs, > which is typically after 3-4 laps of my 300' track. I stop the engine, load > 2-3 loads of coal, open up the blower for approx. minute or so, build > pressure to 45-50psi, close blower to 1/16 turn and release again. I have > one really tight curve which brings the engine to almost a standstill, but > the blast increases greatly under this load, and pulls the load through > the curve and up to straight line speed again, till the next curve. > With the UI, a 4 cyl. compound with Walschearts and hand controlled. > The Johnson bar is set at full position, with throttle 1/2 turn open and > blower at 1/8 to start off. Once under way, and after approx 200', the > engine really takes off as all the cylinders warm up. So requires cutting > the Johnson bar to approx 40% cut-off, closing blower to < 1/32 turn and < > 1/8 throttle to achieve the same constant speed as above. However running > on alcohol does not give the really noisy blast when pulling out of the > curves. The U1 is a really quiet engine for its size. Engine will "cruise" > at 40-50psi for several laps before pressure drops as the alcohol runs out. > However the R/C Controlled coal burner with Walschearts is a totally > different animal. It has a "hand throttle" which can be pre-set according > to starting and running load, before release. This hand throttle remains > open at all times in pre-set position while running. The R/C control on the > Johnson bar, for forward, nuetral and reverse are infinately notchable on > the left hand control stick. The throttle and blower are controlled on the > right hand control stick, with the initial 1/4 of stick movement > controlling the blower, the next 2-3 notches control the cylinder drain > cocks, and remaining stick movement controls the throttle. Which is also > infinately notchable. At firing up, the hand throttle is closed, R/C > throttle closed, and R/C blower is opened when pressure reaches 45psi. > At 80-90psi at start-off, the Johnson bar is set in fully open > position, the throttle is opened through the blower position and cuts it > off. The drain cocks are opened through 2-3 notches, > to blow down steam and water and then throttle opened more to move off. As > the load is taken up, I reduce the Johnson bar by approx 10%, and back off > on the throttle. As speed is built up, I reduce the Johnson bar setting > again to approx 50%. Typical running with 7 coaches and 50lb load is 1/2 > throttle and 50% on Johnson bar. With the R/C notchable increments, it is > surprising what affect 1 or two notches to the throttle and/or the Johnson > bar makes, and the amount of balance one can achieve and maintain. Thereby > actually "driving" the track as opposed
RE: CA glue
I was conserned that the "No" could be interpreted as "NO!" which it certainly was not. It was intended as a completly informative "No" with no empaphsis or strenght in its use. I have just used CA quite often though I did cringe a bit with the story of glueing the finger back together. The other night at dinner our six year old daughter did tell us a story about her one friend that fell and cracked her head open. She told me she had to go to the hospital and the doctor glued her head back together. My wife an I laughed but maybe she really did get her head glued back together. Kids are fun. Steve > -Original Message- > From: Geoff Spenceley [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 11:19 AM > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam > Subject: RE: CA glue > > Thanks, > > I'm informed!--and I shall so do! > > > > No, it should be stored in the freezer until use and then stored at room > >temperature between uses. Moisture sets off CA so the moisture in the > >refrigerator and the act of removing it will shorten its life. The shelf > >life in the freezer is almost indefinite. > > > >Steve > > > >> -Original Message- > > > >
Re: Silver solder flux
In a message dated 4/2/03 11:59:42 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << (looks like borax in water, but has other stuff in it, too) >> Battern's self pickling flux? Real good stuff, liquid and greenish color. Bob
Re: Materials compatibility
Hi JR, Really good feedback, and I recognise many parrallel "actions and reactions" in my 10mm scale coal burners. I run two coal burners, one is controlled 'by hand", which has only two controls, one for throttle and one for the blower, with a slip eccentric controlling forward and reverse. Has a dummy Walschearts valve gear. The second engine is radio controlled, with working Walschearts valve gear, and R/C controls for the throttle, blower, Johnson Bar and cylinder drain cocks. Also have an Aster U1 which also has full Walschearts valve gear, hand controlled, and can be run on coal or alcohol. With the slip eccentric engine, without radio control, after firing up to 80PSI and with a red hot fire, I add 2-3 loads of coal before release. The running technique is to use both wide throttle (1/2 turn open) throttle, and 1/4 turn blower for starting off with 6-7 coaches, and once under way, reduce throttle to 1/8 turn on throttle and 1/16 turn on the blower. This gives a steady speed with enough throttle and blower, to pull the load out of the tighter bends after natural slowing, but not allow an "out of control" speed on the straights, heading for the curves. So almost a set and release driving method. When the pressure drops to 30-35 lbs, which is typically after 3-4 laps of my 300' track. I stop the engine, load 2-3 loads of coal, open up the blower for approx. minute or so, build pressure to 45-50psi, close blower to 1/16 turn and release again. I have one really tight curve which brings the engine to almost a standstill, but the blast increases greatly under this load, and pulls the load through the curve and up to straight line speed again, till the next curve. With the UI, a 4 cyl. compound with Walschearts and hand controlled. The Johnson bar is set at full position, with throttle 1/2 turn open and blower at 1/8 to start off. Once under way, and after approx 200', the engine really takes off as all the cylinders warm up. So requires cutting the Johnson bar to approx 40% cut-off, closing blower to < 1/32 turn and < 1/8 throttle to achieve the same constant speed as above. However running on alcohol does not give the really noisy blast when pulling out of the curves. The U1 is a really quiet engine for its size. Engine will "cruise" at 40-50psi for several laps before pressure drops as the alcohol runs out. However the R/C Controlled coal burner with Walschearts is a totally different animal. It has a "hand throttle" which can be pre-set according to starting and running load, before release. This hand throttle remains open at all times in pre-set position while running. The R/C control on the Johnson bar, for forward, nuetral and reverse are infinately notchable on the left hand control stick. The throttle and blower are controlled on the right hand control stick, with the initial 1/4 of stick movement controlling the blower, the next 2-3 notches control the cylinder drain cocks, and remaining stick movement controls the throttle. Which is also infinately notchable. At firing up, the hand throttle is closed, R/C throttle closed, and R/C blower is opened when pressure reaches 45psi. At 80-90psi at start-off, the Johnson bar is set in fully open position, the throttle is opened through the blower position and cuts it off. The drain cocks are opened through 2-3 notches, to blow down steam and water and then throttle opened more to move off. As the load is taken up, I reduce the Johnson bar by approx 10%, and back off on the throttle. As speed is built up, I reduce the Johnson bar setting again to approx 50%. Typical running with 7 coaches and 50lb load is 1/2 throttle and 50% on Johnson bar. With the R/C notchable increments, it is surprising what affect 1 or two notches to the throttle and/or the Johnson bar makes, and the amount of balance one can achieve and maintain. Thereby actually "driving" the track as opposed to set and release. Which is something never experienced in the non-r/c engines. Also there is a "dwell" time between action on the stick and re-action of the engine, which takes some getting used to. (I have flown R/C planes and used to "instant on" controls). Also by throttling back into the blower zone and and opening up on the johnson bar, you can generate more draft and build up pressure back up, if dropping off. However this is the sign that the fire needs replenising, but you do get some warning or feedback from the engine that this is neccessary. When re-coaling I can keep the blower open by R/C or by keeping the hand throttle slightly open and R/C off. Types of coal are an entirely different issue!. Regards, Tony D. There are three controls that I have seen that might regulate what goes up the stack. That would be the johnson bar, cylinder drains, and fire thickness. There are also mechanical issues such as leaks around the smoke box door, or a crummy firebox door, not to mention the petti coa
Silver solder flux
At 12:36 PM 4/2/03 -0700, you wrote: >Harry and all, >It probably had something that was bad for the environment or your health. >It seems like all of the things that work well are really bad for something. Absolutely, and my point exactly. I was once told what it was, but that's been years ago (it was my 1st jar of flux) and I can't recall. It might have been some form of phosphorus. All the counter men remembered it though, because all their customers complained that the "new improved" version was of course worthless. I can attest to that, there was a marked difference and I ended up tossing mine out. Also (OT rant), six introductory screens is way too many to have to work through to get to Johnson-Matthey's most commonly used products. It's apparent they spend their time devising web site graphics and very little increasing market share. Compared to Harris Metals they aren't even on the radar in the US welding/brazing market (at least in this area) although they are a household (workshop-hold?) name in the UK. Regards, Harry
Re: Silver solder flux
Hi Bob hard Soldering is correct. (soft soldering is no problem) I am using borax and water although the borax does not seem to dissipate into a smooth paste but rather a granular watery paste. I may not have gotten the metals hot enough the silver solder had no problem adhering to the machined piece of brass yet would not adhere to the sheet brass. i had the two bolted together to keep them stable while brazing. Thanks Ferd. On Wednesday, April 2, 2003, at 03:07 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 4/2/03 11:01:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << If you want to experiment with something cheap make up a flux of borax and water >> Borax and water was the standby as far back as the 15th century. I have used it, and it of course works, but best for non-ferrous soldering. I use Harris black flux and prefer it because it melts at a higher temp. As Harry says, hopefully you are not trying to use a soft solder flux and must assume (that word that gets all in trouble) that you are referring to hard soldering. Tell us what your problems are in soldering and maybe we can figure a conclusion. It is not always a cause of flux. Bob
Re: Silver solder flux
In a message dated 4/2/03 11:01:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << If you want to experiment with something cheap make up a flux of borax and water >> Borax and water was the standby as far back as the 15th century. I have used it, and it of course works, but best for non-ferrous soldering. I use Harris black flux and prefer it because it melts at a higher temp. As Harry says, hopefully you are not trying to use a soft solder flux and must assume (that word that gets all in trouble) that you are referring to hard soldering. Tell us what your problems are in soldering and maybe we can figure a conclusion. It is not always a cause of flux. Bob
Re: Silver solder flux
> If you want to experiment with something cheap make up a > flux of borax and water. I've never tried it but I hear > it works. It works, but not really well. I'm glad Ferd. asked the question, because I haven't been really happy with the ones I've used, but the one from the jewelry supply (looks like borax in water, but has other stuff in it, too) works the best. I guess I'll stay with it. regards, -vance- Vance Bass Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
RE: Silver solder flux
Harry and all, It probably had something that was bad for the environment or your health. It seems like all of the things that work well are really bad for something. The best cleaner for grease was LPS super cleaner. They took that off the market because it was a chlorinated solvent and bad for the ozone. Does anyone have any experience with the Johnson Matthey Easy-flo products? http://www.jm-metaljoining.com/ Ken
RE: CA glue
Thanks, I'm informed!--and I shall so do! No, it should be stored in the freezer until use and then stored at room >temperature between uses. Moisture sets off CA so the moisture in the >refrigerator and the act of removing it will shorten its life. The shelf >life in the freezer is almost indefinite. > >Steve > >> -Original Message-
Re: Materials compatibility
Thanks Keith, With experts like you and J.R wot else can a fellow need. I'll write you off list as you kindly offer. Geoff >Geoff, >While opening the fire door a bit, does have it's uses, it will also >give some extra oxygen to burn up the unburned coal in the smoke, and >give you a bit cleaner stack, at such times, like when you first put on >a big batch of green coal. But, you still need to control the air UNDER >the fire, to get better control of the fire!! The air coming in on TOP >of the fire, will only react with the unburned carbon in the smoke, and >will not greatly affect the fire bed. which gets it's air from beneath. >You also have to worry about a blast of cold air, from an open door, >hitting the tube sheet, as that can cause warping, and will eventually >bring on leaky tubes. On my firedoors, I have a disk of metal that >rotates, and when it's in one position, it allows tiny holes to admit >air, in controlled amounts, to help with burning the hydrocarbons that >have left the fire bed in the smoke, but not allow a huge blast of cold >air to hit the tube sheets. When rotated the other direction, it closes >off the holes entirely, to seal the upper fire bed from external air >after the smoke is burned off. To adjust the firing rate, you are much >better off to have dampers, which are nothing more than a controlable >coor at the front and rear of the ash pan. If you do not want a big slug >of cold air to come up in the front of the fire, and by-pass the bulk of >th4e fire, plus cooling the tube sheet, you only open the front damper a >bit. Then opening the rear damper, allows the bulk of the air being >drawn in to pass through the bulk of the fire bed, supplying air where >you want it, when you want it to do so. You can get away with out >working dampers by just having the air openings in the front of the ash >pan, a bit smaller than the openings in the back. I have 3/4" scale >locos with both graduated openings, and working door type dampers. >Write to me off list if you'd like a sketch or more detailed verbal >picture. >Keith > >
Re: Silver solder flux
At 01:21 PM 4/2/03 -0500, you wrote: >Can I please ask for advice on where to get and what to >get as far as good flux goes. >Ferd. There are two, white flux and black flux and most solder mfgs make one or both. Both are good and any good welding supply shop should have the white. Black is harder to find and while I've heard people say they prefer it, it's actually intended for a match to the solders used on stainless and carbides. You of course do not want to use anything intended for soft solder. If you want to experiment with something cheap make up a flux of borax and water. I've never tried it but I hear it works. There is a difference in the performance of white fluxes, but I couldn't tell you whose is better these days. I use Harris and have no complaints. The best I ever had (flux that is) was by AIRCO (Air Reduction Co.) and it was so good they took it off the market. Regards, Harry
Silver solder flux
Hi I know this question has been brought up before and I apologise for bringing it up again. Can I please ask for advice on where to get and what to get as far as good flux goes. I have lots of silver solder and the flux I have been using has provided less than happy results. Thanks in advance Ferd. Ontario Canada
RE: Loctite and Model Steam Engine Construction
I have used knurling and JB weld on a press fit with good results. Steve > -Original Message- > From: Harry Wade [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 4:15 AM > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam > Subject: Re: Loctite and Model Steam Engine Construction > > At 07:40 PM 4/1/03 -0800, you wrote: > >Has anyone had experience with using Loctite products in the building of > >model steam engines? > >Mike Martin > > Micheal, > Yes, quite a bit although I avoid it where convenient. Personally I > prefer to make fits in the traditional way but I do use it and I find it > especially handy in Ga1 where the difference between a slip fit and a > press > fit is often on the order of .0002" rather than .002". That being the > case > (for us amatuers - even good ones) you often don't know which one your are > going end up with until the hole is done and the slightest miss on > diamater > will result in a broken wheel casting rather than a nice press fit. >Primers and accellerants are OK but generally as long as the mating > surfaces are squeaky (chemically) clean they will do fine. In larger > scales on critical torque fits and connections, such as drive wheels to > axles, many people supplement the use of Loctite with a locating pin (or > the usual keyway) but this isn't needed in small scale as the torques > present aren't that great. >One caution I have would be this, unlike press and running fit > clearances which get exponentially smaller as scale decreases, the curing > clearance required by Loctite remains the same, .003"-.005" (min) IIRC. > On > a typical Ga1 driver this is plenty enough running fit to allow the wheel > to set on the axle end wobbly and since Loctites aren't completely > self-centering I feel that some means of positive centering of the wheel > is > neccessary. None of this matters if you can tolerate some wheel wobble > and/or eccetricity but I can't. >My remedy foir this, using axle ends as an example, is to turn the > wheel seat (the short length of axle where the wheel fits) to as close to > a > press fit to the wheel center as I can get it. A very tight running fit > is > OK too, anything where there is no wheel wobble left. I then turn a > "trench" in the wheel seat maybe .004" deep and long enough so as to leave > a 1/32" wide register ring at each end of the seat. This creates the > required curing clearance. When the wheel is installed the trench is > filled with Loctite and the register rings eliminate the wheel wobble and > the assembly appears on the outside to be a full diameter axle. > > Regards, > Harry >
Re: Loctite and Model Steam Engine Construction
At 07:40 PM 4/1/03 -0800, you wrote: >Has anyone had experience with using Loctite products in the building of >model steam engines? >Mike Martin Micheal, Yes, quite a bit although I avoid it where convenient. Personally I prefer to make fits in the traditional way but I do use it and I find it especially handy in Ga1 where the difference between a slip fit and a press fit is often on the order of .0002" rather than .002". That being the case (for us amatuers - even good ones) you often don't know which one your are going end up with until the hole is done and the slightest miss on diamater will result in a broken wheel casting rather than a nice press fit. Primers and accellerants are OK but generally as long as the mating surfaces are squeaky (chemically) clean they will do fine. In larger scales on critical torque fits and connections, such as drive wheels to axles, many people supplement the use of Loctite with a locating pin (or the usual keyway) but this isn't needed in small scale as the torques present aren't that great. One caution I have would be this, unlike press and running fit clearances which get exponentially smaller as scale decreases, the curing clearance required by Loctite remains the same, .003"-.005" (min) IIRC. On a typical Ga1 driver this is plenty enough running fit to allow the wheel to set on the axle end wobbly and since Loctites aren't completely self-centering I feel that some means of positive centering of the wheel is neccessary. None of this matters if you can tolerate some wheel wobble and/or eccetricity but I can't. My remedy foir this, using axle ends as an example, is to turn the wheel seat (the short length of axle where the wheel fits) to as close to a press fit to the wheel center as I can get it. A very tight running fit is OK too, anything where there is no wheel wobble left. I then turn a "trench" in the wheel seat maybe .004" deep and long enough so as to leave a 1/32" wide register ring at each end of the seat. This creates the required curing clearance. When the wheel is installed the trench is filled with Loctite and the register rings eliminate the wheel wobble and the assembly appears on the outside to be a full diameter axle. Regards, Harry
