Re: High temperature wire - also small LEDs
Hi, From: Jeffrey Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: High temperature wire - also small LEDs Someone on this forum had a source for small quantities of very small diameter high-temperature wire, suitable to wiring headlights and running through the smokebox. Discussion was maybe 6-9 months ago. I have some 0.05 (1.3mm) PTFE 7 core wire in Red or Grey. You would be welcome to a length of each, please contact me directly if interested and I will post to you. # Continuous Use Temperature: PTFE - 500 deg F, FEP - 399 deg F # Melt Temperature: PTFE - Does not melt, softens at 625 deg F, FEP - 500 deg F Also, does anyone have a source for white LEDs smaller than the common 3mm diameter? White LEDs are available down to 0603 surface mount packages. Digikey http://www.digikey.com/ have some smallish ones, see : http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T042/1338.pdf ... bottom of page. Or http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T042/1360.pdf Note the LEDs are under L, not Optoelectronics. You can also cut down the normal LED plastic packages as long as the metal bit inside with the bond wire is not disturbed. To finish off the light emitting end you can stick on a thin piece of transparent plastic with superglue and it will be clear again. (The superglue should be the non-vapor type.) Best wishes, Susan.
Re: Sectional Track
Hi Steve, I believe that this may well be ex. War Department Jubilee track as used for the trench railways in Northern France in the latter part of the First World War. Surprised to find a great photo of sectional railroad track, including a stack of 4 curved sections. The gauge appears to be 24 inches (or maybe it's 60 cm). The location is a steamship coaling depot in Papeete, Tahiti about 1918. Here's a link to the photo that I posted over at mylargescale.com: http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/SteveShyvers\Track Photos\Papeete Coal.jpg I had to add a %20 to the above i.e. ...\Track%20Photos\... to get the link to work. The photo shows sections of track and four modular switches that fan out to a 10-foot high or so coal heap. If ever you needed to see a prototype for tinplate sectional track this is it. In fact the track is contemporaneous with tinplate. An interesting detail is that the switch points are articulated and are not stub-style. These were high tech switches. Jubilee track was designed to be carried and laid by hand. Apparently the track was used to transfer the coal to a pier next to a docked ship, or maybe to a lighter. It looks like the coal was hand-shoveled into wicker baskets about 24 tall. Four of these baskets were placed on a tiny 4-wheel flat car. Because there is no evidence of power equipment for handling the coal I will assume that the flat cars were moved by hand. In France they used to run stonking big Alco and Baldwin 2-6-2 and 4-6-0 locomotives on this stuff! http://www.narrow-gauge-pleasure.co.uk/aboutngr.html and this site has some pics of an Alco 2-6-2 in War Department colours: http://home.iae.nl/users/summer/16mmngm/Pics_htms/FRoissyDompierre.htm ... and yes, I have copies of both the Baldwin 2-6-2 and 2-4-0 locomotive erection drawings. These are inside frame locomotives, whilst the Alco 2-6-2 (as per Ffestiniog Railway's Mountaineer) is an outside frame loco. http://www.festrail.co.uk/the_alco_in_war_dept__grey_livery.htm When I have time I hope to build one - although perhaps not for 60cm gauge! Best wishes, Susan.
Re: Testing fuel tanks
Hi Thanks for the reference. Jeffrey Williams wrote: [Big snip] And please, if you feel very confident in your own analytical ability, review a copy of the ASME Code and get a copy of Formulas for Stress and Strain by R.J. Roark before you inadvertantly build yourself a bomb. I have just ordered a copy of Roark (the new 7th edition). Ta. Best wishes, Susan.
G1 Loco Drawings
Hi, The thought accoured to me that another source of drawings for scratch building in G1 might be those for 3-1/2 gauge locomotives, as all the dimensions can be divided by 2 for 1-3/4 gauge (and as most drawings are in fractional inches they are easily modified with a bit of white-out and a pen - 1/16 becomes 1/32, etc.). Some tweaking might be required to get sensible sizes or thicknesses perhaps, plus the tyre profiles modified (remember the 1:20 taper is 3 degrees NOT 2!). The boiler would need to be worked over to optimise for smaller number of firetubes or gas operation (wot, no coal?) but all in all it should be fairly straightforward. Locomotives such as Virginia and Caribou are already (horrendously) simplified but actually should pan out for G1. And Kozo Hiraoka's books for building a Climax, Shay or Pennsy Switcher give lots of how to information, including fabricating most stuff from solid rather than castings. Again, just divide by 2! Building the Shay, ISBN 0-914104-07-1 Building the Heisler, ISBN 0-914104-09-8 Building the Climax, ISBN 0-914104-13-6 The Pennsylvania A3 Switcher, ISBN 0-941653-62-5. And by suitable juggling of dimensions the A3 could be redone as a narrow gauge locomotive and /or have leading/trailing pony trucks added. Hiraoka's books are very good as they show one exactly what one will be letting oneself in for (*gulp*) as they have many step by step sequences. I for one know that I need to spend more time in my workshop turning and milling metal. Anyway, just a thought. Best wishes, Susan.
Re: Thirsty K-27
Hi Tom, As you have 80 psi why not just use a real steam injector? Then the boiler does all the work, saves your thumbs, and you can continue operations whilst the injector does it's stuff should you so wish. Derek Brown gave a practical talk on the construction of miniature injectors at SMEE (Society of Model and Experimental Engineers) a few weeks ago. The smallest injector demonstrated used a number 80 drill for the cone min hole and would be ideal for your loco. You will have to shop around to find one but they do exist. Water needs to be pure and free of bits of course. Best wishes, Susan. Message Number: 2 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 08:57:26 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Thirsty K-27 I want to keep my K-27 under steam for an extended period of time. I am looking for a simple method of filling the boiler under pressure. A Goodall valve with a finger bottle pump works but my finger gives out long before the water is at the top of the Regards, Tom Burns
RE: Hand laid track suplyes
Hi Dave, Many thanks (*smile*). Best wishes, Susan.
RE: Hand laid track suplyes
Hi Gary, Do COC have email/web site? ... or do you have a non 800 number as we can't call toll free from England. Many thanks. Best wishes, Susan. P.S. I'm back - computer repaired and returned at last. S. Message Number: 9 Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:34:40 -0700 From: "Gary Broeder" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Hand laid track suplyes While there are suppliers out there that have a fair amount of goods I would recommend a call to COC in OR ( 800-866-8635) as they have a good stock of rail in aluminum or nickel silver from code 215 to 332, many different lengths of spikes, tie plates, frogs and points, roller and 3 point gauges, turnout kits, however they no longer supply wood ties. GaryB
a major hiccup with my computer
Hi All, Just had a major hiccup with my computer - which may just be a floppy disc drive problem (can't read or write the pesky little things) or something much more sinister as my machine has been hanging and crashing, which in the last event messed up windows badly (*gulp*). A by product of all this is I have lost the entire Outlook database with all my recent emails and of course addresses, plus all my snippets of info held as notes, etc (*sigh*). Due to my computers uncertain stability I may be unexpectedly off line for a while, without warning. Meanwhile my direct email correspondence has come to a crashing halt. Reminders (with sympathy) please (*smile*). Best wishes, Susan.
RE: wheels
Hi Jim, All, Website up soon, promise. Working on it at the moment. Best wishes, Susan.
RE: Traction - Iron vs steel
Hi Harry, All, Hum, you noticed (*smile*). My lathe is a "nearly new" Myford Speed 10. Set up on some temporary wooden blocks. I will be getting the proper drip tray from Myford and bolting the lathe down, plus adding motor control with a nice big red OFF switch (or two). You may notice the Dixon quick change tool system, which is great. I have 10 tool holders and two parting off holders, and even on the little I have done this week they are definitely showing the benefit of their use. I currently have a 4" 3 jaw chuck and the 6" faceplate. I will also get a 4 jaw soon (should have had one with the lathe, but that's another story). Well, I've put up a couple of images: My new lathe: http://www.apnix.demon.co.uk/steam/general/speed10p1.jpg General view loco drawing: http://www.apnix.demon.co.uk/steam/nwp136/nwp136r2.gif The loco general view drawing is very much work in progress. N.B. The tender trucks are placeholders, and will be redrawn when I get back to that end of things. Currently I am working on the front pony truck, wheels and tyre profiles. No other text pages or anything yet, but soon... Best wishes, Susan. P.S. My ISP can take a while to make uploads visible, so it might be the best part of 24 hours before they become generally accessible.
Re: Iron castings
Hi, I am intending to use gunmetal centers with continually cast steel tube for the tyres. BTW, I am told that steel should grip better than cast iron because of the lower carbon content. Comments anyone? Still working out how to make them mind, but then that's all part of the fun. I have the metal upstairs and my "new" lathe delivered yesterday (replacement for the Toyo/Sakai which didn't work out so well), so time to put theory to practice! Happy steaming. Best wishes, Susan. [Original Message - very snipped] From: Harry Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Iron castings appeared to me the best combination of materials, from a castings availability standpoint, and if you didn't want an all-stainless wheel, would be think in terms of brass centers with mild steel tires. Extra work for the tires but brass casters are a dime a dozen and mild steel would provide almost as good traction as iron. Cheers, Harry --
Re: (O.T.) Steam locomotive info.
Hi, No worries on my part anyhow, I really enjoyed reading these! The "hostling.html" has some interesting points that do translate down to smaller scales, although hopefully getting up at 3 a.m. isn't one of them (*smile*) (*yawn*). The stirling info reminded me that the Guilford SME had a G1 0-4-0 stirling powered loco running inside a wheel, rodent like, at the Sandown ME show. I should ask next time how much it can actually pull, although it doesn't go "chuff" "chuff" of course. Best wishes, Susan. P.S. I am looking for a copy of "LOCOMOTIVE BOILERS AND ENGINES" by LLEWELLYN V. LUDY, M.E. If anyone has any info on this I would be most obliged. S. Check out www.carolwood.com/locobuilt.htm It's about one observers description of a Baldwin locomotive being built, circa 1907. Not too terribly detailed on most things, but gives a good insight. This reminded me of another site that people may enjoy. It's about getting up at 3:30 AM to fire up a big engine for 10 AM running. http://sdrm.org/faqs/hostling.html
RE: Kerosene fueling
Hi, Thanks for the further input. I think that the next step will be to get a small camping stove and put a liter of water in a small pressure vessel and time how long it takes to boil with different fuels, and measure the amount of fuel used. Should I be feeling extra enthusiastic I could also get a similar sizes gas stove, and try the same thing out with gas. It would of course be a propane/butane mix (of probably unspecified proportions) however... Candle power could also be tested, however burning wood or coal (or goose fat for that matter) is probably not a great idea in the apartment as, if nothing else, I am sure the smoke alarm will be triggered (it works well enough for burnt toast!). There are two stages of boiling water though. First there is the raising the temperature to c.100 degrees Centigrade, then there is the actual conversion of the water liquid to a gas vapor. The latter apparently requires a lot more energy. It is this latent energy (as heat) that is stored in gaseous H2O that differentiates it from compressed air at a similar pressure. This is probably why flash steam, whilst great in principle, is a lot harder to implement satisfactorily in real life. This type of physics isn't my thing, so I am a bit hazy about the maths. However I have been told that 100 grams of water requires about 230 kilo-joules at 100% heat transfer efficiency to turn it into steam. Actual boiler efficiencies would be rather less. My guess is perhaps 20% maximum, or am I being outrageously optimistic? Any ideas, facts or figures on this one? Best wishes, Susan. P.S. Sorry for the use of SI units in an American-centric list, but I don't know the imperial ones. I am having a hard enough time getting used to decimal and fractional inches for drawing instead of the millimeters which I am used to. And I am old enough to remember using British pre decimal LSD (Pounds, Shillings and Pence) money! S.
RE: Kerosene fueling
Hi, Many thanks to everyone for their comments on and off the list. I have been cautioned as to kerosene, however I can assure everyone that I am not intending to make a fireball in the kitchen (flambeed custards perhaps). Just to widen the discussion for the moment I am listing some fuels with comments for you to add to or correct (I have probably missed a few). Wood: Not appropriate, in my case, as the prototype was oil fired. Coal: Not appropriate as the prototype was oil fired. Methanol: Low heat generation: Safe(ish) as often used in "toy" steamers e.g. Mammod. N.B: Not safe to drink, some health issues. Ethanol: Higher heat generation. Safe(ish) as can be extinguished with water. I don't know how practical this is in the UK as the Customs and Excise people tax this stuff like you Americans wouldn't believe (or maybe post Prohibition you would). Probably better off burning dollar bills or Malt Whiskey (the latter would smell better than JP-5 aviation kerosene too). Wick burners commonly used. Pro: Left overs can be added to the punch bowl. Some health issues from over exposure (*hic*). White Spirit: ? Use in Primus style burner. Safety issues? Petrol (lead free preferred): Use in Primus style burner. Safety issues? Kerosene: Cannot be extinguished with water. Smell problem when used indoors? Gravity fed porous "rock" or pressurized vapor burner. Diesel: Similar problems to Kerosene. Butane: Gas of choice? Ceramic burner or gas jet(s). Problems with maintaining feed pressure when cold. Propane or Butane/Propane mix: Not allowed by G1 society as considered too dangerous. Could use camping gaz cartridges placed in tender to supply gas directly which might overcome the safety concerns but these are far too large for 1/32nd scale use. Electricity: Pro: Clean and on demand: Con: Huge battery required for any sort of reasonable operating time (like truck battery size), or fully electrified track (*sizzle-sizzle*). Candles: Hum, night light power! Might be possible to make a multi wick candle using night lights in a special holder. Can't see how to make it work in my locomotive because of access problems. But might be possible for other designs. Certainly would chuck out a fair amount of heat. The 24 candles (a token amount, I am older than that) on my birthday cake last summer melted the chocolate icing in very short order, the cake had to do an emergency stop in the freezer before being sliced up. Although in the end it didn't save the chocolate (*sticky smile*). Other Fuels/Energy Sources: ? What have I missed? Comments? I will be buying a foam fire extinguisher and fire blanket before trying any of the above. Should really have them for the kitchen anyway (not that I do any deep fat frying). And yes, I will let the list know of any progress. Don't hold you breaths though, as I am just about to start with the front 4 wheel truck. It is my intention to put up a web site at some point, and to include source material (e.g. wheel tire profiles) as well as drawings and pictures. The above fuel list could well be a page in it's own right. Best wishes for the New Year, Susan.
RE: Kerosene fueling [was: Electric Steam / Cold Steam]
Hi Trent, Phil et Al, I have been considering the whole "heating water to make steam" business for a while, and have two versions currently in mind. I would add that all this is very much "thoughts in progress, and may be changed at any time" (sounds very much like woman's prerogative doesn't it (*grin*)!). Firstly I am considering a burner based on the camping style pressurized stove for liquid fuel - which could be kerosene, white spirit or even alcohol for that matter. Secondly I am considering alternative boiling methods including a semi flash steam marine style unit, or even a full flash steam if I can get it right. Okay, deviating from prototype practice, but then we don't put several hundred tubes into our boilers either - some things don't scale neatly. Ultimately I am looking at options to be able to have a pipe rather than a pressure vessel based steam generator to make as much of the steam "on demand" as possible. To my mind liquid fuel has a number of advantages over gas including the fact that it is a liquid at normal temperatures (*duh*) and does not need to be stored or held in a pressurized container. Well, other than any pressure that might be required to feed the liquid, which could be quickly removed. And the UK G1 Soc. doesn't permit Propane mixes for safety reasons, so is has to be straight Butane for gas. As to the burner itself there is the conventional camping stove (blowtorch?) type technology, or as an alternative I am looking at the possibility to use steam to inject the fuel (and atomize it at the same time) into the combustion chamber (as per prototype practice). Some form of mechanical pumping would obviously be needed initially to get the first steam raised. I would note at this point that I am an electronics hardware designer rather than a mechanical engineer by profession. I have lots of ideas, no doubt many of which are impractical for one reason or another, and much of what I am considering is because "I don't know any better" i.e. nobody has told me it can't be done, tain't natural, etc., etc. I am also experimenting (being a practical hands on type) and I do understand that what may work at 1/16th or bigger scale may well not be practical at 1/32nd. So I am very much open to comments and advise from those who actually have real experience with live steamers - as I have yet to raise (locomotive) steam of any kind (*sigh*). To be honest still struggling to get my lathe sorted out (*more sighs*). So any examples of "current practice" i.e. anything that actually worked in the last 100 years (isn't steam technology wonderful - not like electronics which changes so fast that even a few months can outdate things) is of interest. I have the Virginia and Caribou original articles from the Model Engineer, but otherwise there is a dearth of American outline designs available here in the UK. My primary reference source is my 1916 Locomotive Dictionary, an awesome book full of fascinating detail (of course its all 12" scale stuff). And to those who wonder why she doesn't just buy herself an Aster kit (Allengheny!) or such like I guess I am enjoying the challenge of doing/learning something new and as a hobby rather than electronics (i.e. my profession in some form) based. Of course me being me I have gone from idle interest to full head on design, and now my idle thoughts are whether I could ever take my design and build it full size! (Assuming the mythical lotto win of course.) Totally "la-la land", but something to ponder when making pastry, preparing vegetables, or doing the dishes. Thanks. Best wishes, Susan.
RE: egroups small_scale_steam_models
Hi Dave, All. I would absolutely NOT want the SSLS list to move away from plain text, or to allow the addition of attachments. I pay for my connect time and being suddenly faced with a one megabyte plus download with a slow connection would be a serious pain. I often send and collect emails during the day when calls are at a premium rate, because I can get it all done within the minimum charge time. Browsing etc. I do at evenings and weekends. And it would pose a serious security risk, something that as a MickySoft 98 user I am all too aware of. I do not allow Java or ActiveX scripts to run, nor do I accept cookies. The first two are security risks and the latter is an invasion of privacy. Otherwise, what's the point of using a firewall? The practice of providing links to pictures etc. works fine by me. Of course it is extra hassle to ftp the images, and maybe make up a page to go with them, but then that stops whimsical graphics from being inflicted on the unsuspecting. For example of late there has been much expounding on the beauty of various peoples Rubies. Which I think is great. But being deluged with images of the self same beauties (and one of me in my pink bikini) would have been totally over the top. I too think this list is great. To whit, interesting, informative and even fun! Please keep it accessible. Best wishes, Susan. P.S. I get this list as a daily digest, which works very well for me.
RE: Cabooses @ 1:32
Hi all, It would seem to me that one answer to the lack of 1/32nd stuff to pull would be if a manufacturer made two or three different length chassis with 4 wheel trucks and couplers already mounted (or even just as a kit, with a spine that can be cut to the desired length). Then one could build these up as a flat car, gondola, box car, tank, caboose or even coaches. The amount and difficulty of scratch building would be greatly reduced and I imagine the rest could be built from wood, plastic or brass according to one's skill or fancy. Making the stuff "on top" should be within the skill of most of us, whereas building from the rail up might be a bit too daunting. The detailing of each individual item could be done over time, or left quite plain, depending on the individual's needs. Anyone like to suggest a standard for the trucks, which couplers, etc. Personally I am trying to minimize the amount of castings I have to use for one offs, so I am initially going for types that were fabricated rather then cast. Best wishes, Susan.
RE: Ruby Beauty Pageant
Ooh, yes please. I have this really nice pink bikini (*huge grin*). Unfortunately I am not able to be there (*sulk*). Best wishes, Susan. Tom, we don't disagree at all. I wasn't thinking of prizes and judging. For me, a beauty pageant starts and ends with the swimsuit competition, and the rest is superfluous. (Potentially embarassing confession.) All I had in mind was that we all line 'em up and admire 'em. -vance-
Re: Allegheny Investor Club (A.I.C.)
Hi Dan, I am not aware of the number of Allegheny locomotives that are planed, which is why I sad "at least". Also they are being supplied as kits only? If so than some of the overhead in a limited edition is removed. Agreed there is still a fair amount of work to put all the bits in a box, and some major items e.g. boiler are supplied completed. For my own "flight of fancy" the numbers would be so small that they would be individually hand built and supplied as completed units. If one was going to go to larger numbers, in the tens to hundreds even (should there be a market for that sort of quantity) then outsourcing all the manufacturing to an engineering firm would be the only way to go, and supplying kits an option. It was meant to be "humor" anyway, not a serious offer to trade! However ... I am not really interested (in my profession as an electronics hardware designer) in doing manufacturing beyond the prototypes and a few samples for production. Soldering up more than ten circuit boards crawling with today's miniature components is not very effective use of time, and to be honest my eyesight isn't what it used to be. However as a business person (I have been self employed for the best part of twenty years) I believe one should always be open to considering new directions, even if prudently one does keep focused on one's own specialty. My younger brother in California (not the same person as the Shay "sparkie") has, quite independently of myself, bought the same lathe that I have (it's just arrived this evening). Mine is a second hand Sakai ML360 with the milling attachment. It isn't cheep, so I am a little anxious that I have made the correct choice. There are not a lot of small lathes available here in the UK, most are inexpensive Chinese machines, about which I have heard mixed reports about reliability and usability. The Sakai ( www.SakaiMachineTools.com ) is also very popular in Germany, so there is some European support for the product. Also when I emailed a request to the US for product information I got it back here in the UK two days later! (This is when an inland letter can take four days to travel a hundred miles.) My choice in lathes is partly based on weight, as I simply cant handle anything bigger than the Sakai, and it has to sit on the bench along side my pillar drill in the attic. I had been recommended a Myford ML7 as these are very popular here, but they are much bigger and I didn't think I could cope. So now its time to take stock of what I have got with the lathe and work out what I need to accessorize it (milling collets, quick change tool holder, etc). And of course take a trip to South London to buy some metal to do something with! Probably also time to join a local SME society, although London itself isn't overly endowed with such things. My first loco project is a 1914 4-6-0 ALCO which I feel is sufficiently challenging to keep me busy for a good while to come. Especially as I am intending to build it as close to the original style as possible, given that I only have a photograph to work from. Hence my interest in a 1916 Locomotive Dictionary, which is now on its way to me, to get as much information as possible about locomotive construction of the period. Being a good electronics designer doesn't, here in the UK anyway, bring in enough even for small diamonds. To be quite honest the only reason I continue is that I don't have a mortgage to pay every month and I can survive without having to have an uninterrupted flow of work from clients. I have to maintain some very expensive hardware and software just to remain viable as an independent, and it gets harder each year. Keep well. Best wishes, Susan.
RE: Locomotive Cyclopedia info
Hi Clark, Many thanks for the info: Best wishes, Susan. [snip] Hi Susan: My 1930 edition of Locomotive Cyclopedia has 27 pages of couplers and 22 pages of draft gear. There is another 60-70 pages dealing with tenders. And the entire book (some 1440 pages) deals with every aspect of locomotives.
Re: Allegheny Investor Club (A.I.C.)
Hum, I have checked out the URL to look at the pictures, interesting. If it really is "a fully functioning museum quality piece" then I can see where the 20K plus price tag may be coming from (given that end purchase price should be at least five times basic manufacturing material cost for any company that wants to make a profit and be able to grow as a business). Perhaps the other way would be to set up as an Aster distributor, then an Allegheny could be purchased at trade and used as a demonstrator to promote the product(s). Written down over three to five years I am sure there would be a tax break in there somewhere! Who knows, one may even manage to sell a few and make a profit! It does however look a little long to wear comfortably, even if wrapped stole like across my shoulders - and I would guess too heavy to wear as part of a hat (*sigh*). Having thought about steam oil and nice clothes I guess black leather would work best (*grin*). Best wishes, Susan. P.S. "Susan's Live Steam Locomotive Company" - Flights of Fancy and Virtual Locomotives in Miniature! Anyone interested in a SP Cab Forward 4-6-6-2 AM2 with Whaleback tender? Very limited production (12 total - one of each # 3900 to 3911.), delivery maybe 2005 or so and perhaps a price of 50K USD (10% discount for orders before 2002). Fully assembled, black only. I get my lathe tomorrow. I am allowing for three years to get fully up to speed at machining skills, 12 months to sort out the prototype, and another 12 months to set up production and deliver the first units. Cheques to my Swiss banks account please :-) Well, there must be more than one way of getting big diamonds (*smile*). Susan.
Re: Locomotive Cyclopedia info
Hi Vance, Thanks for the info. I will look out for a copy. I have taken a very deep breath and put my name down for an original Locomotive Dictionary. Individual Train Shed Cyclopedia reprints are going for 20 plus dollars, so it doesn't look so expensive after all. If anyone is interested I know of a book store in London which still has a stock of Train Sheds, although not complete sets of everything, selling at 4.95 UK pounds each. They include some building and structures, diesel etc. I can pass on the contact details. Best wishes, Susan.
Re: Allegheny Investor Club (A.I.C.)
Can I imagine the size of the diamond? Oh yes, can I just! Big, very big. In fact bigger than very big! Huge. And that's just the center piece in the necklace. I would want matching earrings etc. too! (*VBG*) And an evening dress to go with. Plus new shoes to match. And a few other things beside. (*laugh*). And of course having all this new finery, one would need to show it off. So evenings out at tasteful (female code for "expensive") restaurants, perhaps a visit to the opera or a Broadway show (plus the air fair from England) and staying somewhere "nice" (alternative female code for "expensive"). Second mortgage time, sounds like (*grin*). Best wishes, Susan.
Locomotive Cyclopedia info
Hi Clark, All. Can you tell me if your Loco Cyclopedia details locomotive (and tender) knuckle couplers. I have various of the Train Shed reprints but unfortunately not full sets. Ideally I need part 4 of the 1912 set (No: 76) which I believe has tender, cab, pilot etc. information. My 4-6-0 design is based on a 1914 ALCO built locomotive (# 136 of the Northwestern Pacific). It was oil fired and had a small Vanderbilt style tender. Best wishes, Susan. P.S. I would be interested in purchasing either singles or sets (steam - any date) if anyone knows anyone who has any. Or covering the costs of decent photocopies of particular pages of interest (GIF B/W images from scans at 600 dpi would be okay too). [snip] Message Number: 5 Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000 14:58:24 -0800 From: Clark Lord [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Boosters (was compounding and reheating, etc.) My 1930 Locomotive Cyclopedia of American Practice has 10 or so pages devoted to boosters. A booster is a flat two cylinder steam engine that is a part of a trailing truck. It can also be a part of the leading tender truck. The booster steam engine is geared to the trailing truck or tender driving wheels and is automatically engaged or disengaged by the throttle action of the engineer. It uses the excess steam that is being generated in the boiler during starting and climbing long hills. With a booster engine installed the locomotive is usually rated one class higher in starting power. Clark. BTW I bought my Cyclopedia from Powell's Technical Books in Portland. See http://www.powells.com/cgi-bin/track.pl/Technical.html It cost $80 where many are listed at $250 or so. CBL
Re: OTP: CO2 powered locomotive?
Hi, I have a replica SV Compact Carry for AirSoft gaming. It is a gas blowback pistol and each mag takes a charge from a large filling bottle, along with 25 or so 6 mm 2.5g plastic BBs. The gas used seems to contain a lubricant, and as it is designed to move objects in tubes I imagine it could be suitable as an alternative power to live steam. Hopefully somewhat more reliable than CO2 as one doesn't have the problems with keeping the original in a cold enough state so that it doesn't boil off. Cooling due to expansion will still happen, although the starting temperature is higher. Overall power per volume will be less as one is going from a liquid/compressed gas rather than from a solid as is the case with CO2 Dry Ice. However easily refilled with a squirt from a bottle. Your local hobby or sports adventure store may have some further info, and there are lots of AirSoft sites in the 'net. As to making a pressure vessel to experiment with, I would suggest copper water pipe fittings and tube. Braze rather then solder, and use the stuff without the solder ring inside. Check that the water fittings are rated to a suitable pressure. Although domestic pipe is normally 15 or 22 mm (here in the UK) larger sizes are available for industrial plant. Using a threaded blanking end one could also try out the Dry Ice for comparison purposes! N.B. I am looking at using these fittings to make a small scale boiler for testing purposes. Best wishes, Susan.
RE: Mikado, minimum radius
Hi, As an aside... There is a three way stub switch behind the Californian State Railroad Buildings in their yard on the river front. It has conventional frogs though. (We have photos.) Best wishes, Susan.
Re: Loco Power
Hi. I read the original Model Railroader article a year or so ago and also happened across a follow up comment from some twenty years later (we were reading through some of my father's back issues on a rainy day in Sonoma county). The comment said that main problem with dry ice power was apparently that the working action i.e. the piston and valve parts, would get cold enough to freeze any water vapor and thus lock up. I believe that replacing these metal parts with PTFE could go a long way to solving this problem as they would not conduct the cold so efficiently. And adding a suitable "cold friendly" lubricant rather than steam oil should also help. Modern electronics with a heater and sensors would take care of the losing pressure problem. I imagine a ceramic cased 25W? resistor would be sufficient. Something with a low thermal mass to be able to keep the pressure even in a fast(ish) feedback loop, with input from the desired regulator position, etc. Track power would probably be needed, or at least a good sized rechargeable battery. It does solve a number of problems (or at least changes the mix), especially in smaller scales. And it would be safer for indoor use (children, pets, partners, etc). Best wishes, Susan.
RE: OT: RE RE etc. Steamup timing WAS Re: PCLS web site up ...
Hi.
The month of May would be better for us as we are planning to come over to
the States during that time next year. We are already planning on staying
in Sacramento for a few days (research at the CSRRM), plus I want to crawl
around a few locos with a measuring tape, so the opportunity to combine it
with a steamup would be most excellent.
We were in Sacramento last year's July ('99) and it was very hot (for us
Brits). So much so we had to buy hats! (I got a nice Panama from a Front St
store). Indoors was okay though.
Best wishes,
Susan.
P.S.
Does anyone have the formula for calculating the "tractive effort" for a
live steam locomotive?
S.
RE: Mikado Steam Regulator
Hi Chuck, You wrote "My wife is going to kill me when I tell her I want to build another very soon." As a way of (possibly) forestalling sudden death, why not buy it for her and help her build it? You know, matching "hers and his" accessories! Could be quite cute (*grin*). Best wishes, Susan.
RE: List
Hi, Try Brandbright at: http://www.steamup.com/brandbright/ for Peco products. They also do other track systems you might consider. I am given to understand that code 200 rail may not be heavy enough for live steam operation and you could have problems with wear. Also the chairs and sleepers are plastic and there may be problems with this material softening from heat when used with a live steam engine (particularly when it is stationary). As I do not yet have my own system operating others would need to comment on these aspects of rail/track choice. My personal preference for my Gauge 1 track (at the moment - I may change my mind) is for wooden sleepers with spiked flat bottom rail. Which Brandbright also do in 32 mm. Best wishes, Susan. P.S. If you ever get over to South West England a visit to the Peco factory display and garden is well worth while, and their 7.25" narrow gauge railway (oops sorry, railroad) is great fun. S.
