Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Jun.. The boiler is fixed to the smokebox with 3 10BA screws. The boiler is not fixed at the back. Two pieces of 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/16" brass angle are riveted to the sides of the firebox. These angles rest on the top of the frames to support the boiler and let it expand backward. Mike Chaney - Original Message - From: "Jun Kitsukawa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 9:21 AM Subject: G1MRA Project Loco > I do not understand the method of fixing the boiler to the chassis. Someone > should teach me the suitable method. > > > > Jun Kitsukawa
G1MRA Project Loco
I do not understand the method of fixing the boiler to the chassis. Someone should teach me the suitable method. Jun Kitsukawa mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] hp: http://locomotive999.hp.infoseek.co.jp/
Re: Fw: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions
Thanks, Jim. Dave Cole just responded that my user profile was set so that I didn't get my own messages, so then I didn't know if it had been copied to the List. We live and learn ! Slowly. Cheers, Peter. - Original Message - From: "Alison & Jim Gregg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 9:56 AM Subject: Re: Fw: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions > Peter I saw the original post of your message, so it did get out. > > Jim Gregg. > > At 09:45 AM 6/27/02 -0400, you wrote: > >I sent this message 24 hours ago to the List and haven't seen it appear, so > >thought I had better resend it. > >Cheers, > >Peter. > > > >- Original Message - > >From: "Peter Trounce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 10:02 AM > >Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions > > > > > > > No problem here on Outlook Express. > > > > > > On the track radius problem, a more simple solution could be to check the > > > track, as well as the "Project" wheels. > > > > > > Jun, I don't remember how you built your track, if it is hand-built or > > > commercial track sections, but the "Project" should certainly go round 6 > > > foot radius curves. > > > A friend of mine has 7 foot radius and my Aster 141R had no problem, but > >he > > > had widened the track gauge slightly on the curves. > > > If you put the "Project" on the curve where it gets tight, you should be > > > able to see if the wheels still have sideways clearance. Can you move the > > > loco sideways ? > > > If so, then at the tight spot, can the coupling rods be moved sideways on > > > their pins ? If not, then that is easier to fix than the wheels. Remove > >each > > > coupling rod and see if they are straight. And if OK, they can be made > > > slightly thinner by filing to get more.clearance. > > > > > > But I would look at the track gauge first. > > > Some commercial plastic track has holes in the centre of each tie for > > > screws, and if the screw is put in tightly, the tie ends will curl up and > > > reduce the gauge. > > > > > > Hope this helps, > > > Peter Trounce > >
Re: Fw: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions
Peter I saw the original post of your message, so it did get out. Jim Gregg. At 09:45 AM 6/27/02 -0400, you wrote: >I sent this message 24 hours ago to the List and haven't seen it appear, so >thought I had better resend it. >Cheers, >Peter. > >- Original Message - >From: "Peter Trounce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 10:02 AM >Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions > > > > No problem here on Outlook Express. > > > > On the track radius problem, a more simple solution could be to check the > > track, as well as the "Project" wheels. > > > > Jun, I don't remember how you built your track, if it is hand-built or > > commercial track sections, but the "Project" should certainly go round 6 > > foot radius curves. > > A friend of mine has 7 foot radius and my Aster 141R had no problem, but >he > > had widened the track gauge slightly on the curves. > > If you put the "Project" on the curve where it gets tight, you should be > > able to see if the wheels still have sideways clearance. Can you move the > > loco sideways ? > > If so, then at the tight spot, can the coupling rods be moved sideways on > > their pins ? If not, then that is easier to fix than the wheels. Remove >each > > coupling rod and see if they are straight. And if OK, they can be made > > slightly thinner by filing to get more.clearance. > > > > But I would look at the track gauge first. > > Some commercial plastic track has holes in the centre of each tie for > > screws, and if the screw is put in tightly, the tie ends will curl up and > > reduce the gauge. > > > > Hope this helps, > > Peter Trounce
Fw: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions
I sent this message 24 hours ago to the List and haven't seen it appear, so thought I had better resend it. Cheers, Peter. - Original Message - From: "Peter Trounce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 10:02 AM Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions > No problem here on Outlook Express. > > On the track radius problem, a more simple solution could be to check the > track, as well as the "Project" wheels. > > Jun, I don't remember how you built your track, if it is hand-built or > commercial track sections, but the "Project" should certainly go round 6 > foot radius curves. > A friend of mine has 7 foot radius and my Aster 141R had no problem, but he > had widened the track gauge slightly on the curves. > If you put the "Project" on the curve where it gets tight, you should be > able to see if the wheels still have sideways clearance. Can you move the > loco sideways ? > If so, then at the tight spot, can the coupling rods be moved sideways on > their pins ? If not, then that is easier to fix than the wheels. Remove each > coupling rod and see if they are straight. And if OK, they can be made > slightly thinner by filing to get more.clearance. > > But I would look at the track gauge first. > Some commercial plastic track has holes in the centre of each tie for > screws, and if the screw is put in tightly, the tie ends will curl up and > reduce the gauge. > > Hope this helps, > Peter Trounce > > > - Original Message - > From: "Art Walker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 7:41 AM > Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions > > > > I am not having any problem with Kitsukawa's messages on O/E, but I am not > > sure how to advise him! > > I have lent my copy of the Project book to a friend, but if memory serves, > > the coupling rods are one continuous bar connecting the crank pins of > axles > > 1,2,&3. ie they are rigid. > > I suggest Jun, that as a first go, you remove the con rods & see if that > > improves things. > > If it does, then the answer is a 'proper' jointed con rod, with a knuckle > > after the second axle position.This should allow the wheels to conform > > better to the track curvature.Usually done to allow vertical movement, of > > course, which is not necessary on an unsprung loco like the Project. > > But before doing that, I would check whether the holes in the con rods may > > just be too tight, & might benefit from a LITTLE reaming out. Check to see > > if the wheel sets have some freedom to move a little from side to side & > > that they can do so EASILY. > > If removing the con rods makes no difference, & if the wheel sets cannot > > move a little from side to side, then this means that there is > insufficient > > play between inside of wheel boss & outside of axle bearing. > > Now again, if memory serves right, a fault of the original Project design > > was that there was no means of pushing the axle bearings out & dropping > the > > wheel set. Basically what needs to be done is to thin the outside of axle > > bearings to give greater play. Difficult. > > > > 'De-flanging' the middle wheels was suggested. A dodge used frequently by > > the prototype BUT with a wider wheel tread, so not an easy solution.With > an > > unaltered wheel width there is a risk of the centre drivers falling into > the > > track on tight curves. > > > > I would also check that your wheel profile conforms to the GIMRA > standards. > > With a 40mm back to back these give a very 'sloppy' fit on the track (the > > Europeans use 41)& should allow curves to be taken easily even with a > rigid > > chassis. Perhaps you have made your wheel flanges too thick?- thus > removing > > the flexibility. > > > > Art Walker, Guildford, England. > > > > > > > > > At 11:53 PM 6/25/02 -0800, you wrote: > > > > >G1MRA Project Loco can not run on my garden railway (track radius 6 > > > > >feet). Does the loco require larger track radius? Please let me know > > > > >what to do. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Jun Kitsukawa > > > > > JAPAN > >
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Me neither! And I regularly correspond with Kenji Toma from Japan, with absolutely zero troubles. When I very firsat went to Kenji's home page, MS asked if I wanted to download some software to generate the Japanes pictograms. It took about 20 minutes to do so, and while I understand none of it, it makes for a very interesting web site, I no longer get meaningless jiberish, now I get meaningless (to me) pictograms! Along with the English text which he so graciously adds to his site! Keith - Original Message - From: "Jim Curry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 8:19 AM Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > Never had a problem with my Outlook crashing for any reason. > > Jim > >
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
He's not huting my OE. Mike Eorgoff - Original Message - From: "John Simon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 11:38 PM Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > > I keep getting mail from an unreadable address that keeps crashing the Outlook > Express programme. I think it is from the gentleman from Japan, are any > others having this problem? >
Re: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions
No problem here on Outlook Express. On the track radius problem, a more simple solution could be to check the track, as well as the "Project" wheels. Jun, I don't remember how you built your track, if it is hand-built or commercial track sections, but the "Project" should certainly go round 6 foot radius curves. A friend of mine has 7 foot radius and my Aster 141R had no problem, but he had widened the track gauge slightly on the curves. If you put the "Project" on the curve where it gets tight, you should be able to see if the wheels still have sideways clearance. Can you move the loco sideways ? If so, then at the tight spot, can the coupling rods be moved sideways on their pins ? If not, then that is easier to fix than the wheels. Remove each coupling rod and see if they are straight. And if OK, they can be made slightly thinner by filing to get more.clearance. But I would look at the track gauge first. Some commercial plastic track has holes in the centre of each tie for screws, and if the screw is put in tightly, the tie ends will curl up and reduce the gauge. Hope this helps, Peter Trounce - Original Message - From: "Art Walker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 7:41 AM Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions > I am not having any problem with Kitsukawa's messages on O/E, but I am not > sure how to advise him! > I have lent my copy of the Project book to a friend, but if memory serves, > the coupling rods are one continuous bar connecting the crank pins of axles > 1,2,&3. ie they are rigid. > I suggest Jun, that as a first go, you remove the con rods & see if that > improves things. > If it does, then the answer is a 'proper' jointed con rod, with a knuckle > after the second axle position.This should allow the wheels to conform > better to the track curvature.Usually done to allow vertical movement, of > course, which is not necessary on an unsprung loco like the Project. > But before doing that, I would check whether the holes in the con rods may > just be too tight, & might benefit from a LITTLE reaming out. Check to see > if the wheel sets have some freedom to move a little from side to side & > that they can do so EASILY. > If removing the con rods makes no difference, & if the wheel sets cannot > move a little from side to side, then this means that there is insufficient > play between inside of wheel boss & outside of axle bearing. > Now again, if memory serves right, a fault of the original Project design > was that there was no means of pushing the axle bearings out & dropping the > wheel set. Basically what needs to be done is to thin the outside of axle > bearings to give greater play. Difficult. > > 'De-flanging' the middle wheels was suggested. A dodge used frequently by > the prototype BUT with a wider wheel tread, so not an easy solution.With an > unaltered wheel width there is a risk of the centre drivers falling into the > track on tight curves. > > I would also check that your wheel profile conforms to the GIMRA standards. > With a 40mm back to back these give a very 'sloppy' fit on the track (the > Europeans use 41)& should allow curves to be taken easily even with a rigid > chassis. Perhaps you have made your wheel flanges too thick?- thus removing > the flexibility. > > Art Walker, Guildford, England. > > > > > At 11:53 PM 6/25/02 -0800, you wrote: > > > >G1MRA Project Loco can not run on my garden railway (track radius 6 > > > >feet). Does the loco require larger track radius? Please let me know > > > >what to do. > > > > > > > > > > > > Jun Kitsukawa > > > > JAPAN
Re: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions
I am not having any problem with Kitsukawa's messages on O/E, but I am not sure how to advise him! I have lent my copy of the Project book to a friend, but if memory serves, the coupling rods are one continuous bar connecting the crank pins of axles 1,2,&3. ie they are rigid. I suggest Jun, that as a first go, you remove the con rods & see if that improves things. If it does, then the answer is a 'proper' jointed con rod, with a knuckle after the second axle position.This should allow the wheels to conform better to the track curvature.Usually done to allow vertical movement, of course, which is not necessary on an unsprung loco like the Project. But before doing that, I would check whether the holes in the con rods may just be too tight, & might benefit from a LITTLE reaming out. Check to see if the wheel sets have some freedom to move a little from side to side & that they can do so EASILY. If removing the con rods makes no difference, & if the wheel sets cannot move a little from side to side, then this means that there is insufficient play between inside of wheel boss & outside of axle bearing. Now again, if memory serves right, a fault of the original Project design was that there was no means of pushing the axle bearings out & dropping the wheel set. Basically what needs to be done is to thin the outside of axle bearings to give greater play. Difficult. 'De-flanging' the middle wheels was suggested. A dodge used frequently by the prototype BUT with a wider wheel tread, so not an easy solution.With an unaltered wheel width there is a risk of the centre drivers falling into the track on tight curves. I would also check that your wheel profile conforms to the GIMRA standards. With a 40mm back to back these give a very 'sloppy' fit on the track (the Europeans use 41)& should allow curves to be taken easily even with a rigid chassis. Perhaps you have made your wheel flanges too thick?- thus removing the flexibility. Art Walker, Guildford, England. - Original Message - From: "John Simon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 5:38 AM Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > I keep getting mail from an unreadable address that keeps crashing the Outlook > Express programme. I think it is from the gentleman from Japan, are any > others having this problem? > > 73, John de VK2XGJ > VK2XGJ, VK's last Satellite Gateway > The early bird may get the worm > but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Alison & Jim Gregg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:55 AM > Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > > > > Jn Kitsukawa > > > >. > > > > At 11:53 PM 6/25/02 -0800, you wrote: > > >G1MRA Project Loco can not run on my garden railway (track radius 6 > > >feet). Does the loco require larger track radius? Please let me know > > >what to do. > > > > > > > > > Jun Kitsukawa > > > JAPAN > > > > > > > > > > > >
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Never had a problem with my Outlook crashing for any reason. Jim
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
I am receiving the English portion of his messages in Outlook just fine. I just don't get the Japanese portion. No crashing problems with Outlook. Later Michael Florida USA Iron Nut - Original Message - From: John Simon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 12:38 AM Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > I keep getting mail from an unreadable address that keeps crashing the Outlook > Express programme. I think it is from the gentleman from Japan, are any > others having this problem? > > 73, John de VK2XGJ > VK2XGJ, VK's last Satellite Gateway > The early bird may get the worm > but the second mouse gets the cheese! >
G1MRA Project Loco
G1MRA Project Loco can not run on my garden railway (track radius 6 feet). Does the loco require larger track radius? Please let me know what to do. Jun Kitsukawa JAPAN
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
In a message dated 19/04/01 00:39:39 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << how to get a copy of the book or other documentation >> Apologies, List. Had I bothered to read the rest of my mailings I would have realised that Sam Evans & John Kowalchuck had already dealt with this issue. Art Walker
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Try this link http://www.gaugeone.org/ Sam E DuWayne Schmidlkofer wrote: > > I am new to the list and have been looking for a locomotive project. I have > seen several references to the G1MRA project loco. Could someone please > give me information on how to get a copy of the book or other documentation > on this project. > TIA DuWayne >
RE: G1MRA Project Loco
At 07:37 PM 4/18/01 -0400, DuWayne Schmidlkofer wrote: >give me information on how to get a copy of the book or other documentation Having just received my book this week, I will be glad to pass on the information. Visit http://www.gaugeone.org to find out about the G1MRA in the UK. The book is available on the website and is £10.50 including shipping. It is a spiral bound softcover book which gives complete instructions on building a single-piston 0-6-0 locomotive and tender. I'm starting to amass the necessities and raw materials already. John Kowalchuk maker of mutes/horns/canoes/paddles/bikes/harps Oshawa, Ontario http://home.istar.ca/~johnk Canadians don't surf the net, we paddle it.
RE: G1MRA Project Loco
I am new to the list and have been looking for a locomotive project. I have seen several references to the G1MRA project loco. Could someone please give me information on how to get a copy of the book or other documentation on this project. TIA DuWayne
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
In a message dated 18/04/01 04:56:12 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << Has anyone come up with a conversion for running on butane instead of "meths"? I also wanted to ask about wheel castings availability. Should I consider cutting my own from bar stock? How about making it a 0-4-0? >> John, I don't know of anyone who has done this but it could be done I am sure.The new GIMRA 'D' has a very similar boiler but gas fired. A ceramic burner would be best, but I guess the rear axle would be in the way. But the existing firebox is very long so a 'split' ceramic would still work OK I imagine. A slotted poker as per Roundhouse, Accucraft etc. would also be a possibility. The bottom of the firebox would need to be sealed probably. As far as wheels are concerned, I wouldn't even think about it. Contact Bob Paule of Sulphur Springs Models for some suitable castings from Walsall or Locosteam 'tho the latter firm is virtually kaput. The problems of getting North American source castings have been extensively aired on this list. If you really want to do your own, the best words & music are in Kozo Hiraoka's 'Building the Shay' book, which I think has recently been reprinted. Well, you can make it a 0-4-0. 2-6-0, 2-8-0 as you like ! Art Walker
G1MRA Project Loco
Well, my book arrived today and I've had just a little time to pore over it. I have some ideas for modifications but I have a couple of questions right off. Has anyone come up with a conversion for running on butane instead of "meths"? I also wanted to ask about wheel castings availability. Should I consider cutting my own from bar stock? How about making it a 0-4-0? John Kowalchuk maker of mutes/horns/canoes/paddles/bikes/harps Oshawa, Ontario http://home.istar.ca/~johnk Canadians don't surf the net, we paddle it.
Re: G1MRA Project Loco - New 'Dee'
In a message dated 02/04/01 16:46:33 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << Speaking of Project Book, has anyone on the list read the new G1MRA "Dee" book? The book is now available, 'tho I do not know if Bob Paule has stocks as yet. Very well presented 'tho the dimensioning is almost incredibly retro - all fractions with not a decimal inch in sight which caused me some difficulties as all my ex UK toolroom height gauges etc are decimal or metric. Bit like going back to school trying to remember how to subtract 11/32 nds from this that or t'other. Put the frames together but there I will halt for a while as I have other fish to fry. A very attractive but very Brit prototype with ingenious twin inside cylinders & a very neat axle pump. Follows the Moger gas fired philosophy ie. secondary air admitted by a hole up the middle of the ceramic burner & the use of a blower. Alternative boiler & burner(meths) designs are given. One or two little obscurities exist, but lots of chaps will be beavering away on this project so plenty of help will be available. Walsall does suitable wheel castings & there will be 'kits' of bits before too long I am sure. Probably not a beginners loco as the instructions are far from idiot proof - as I found out ! Barry Applegate & Dick Moger are the joint authors. I have seen the first prototype (Dick Moger - Project type boiler & takes 'liquid' from bottom of the tank) & the second - (Frank Norton - JvR type 'B' boiler & takes gas from the top) & both run very well. Proto 3 is being built by Tom Barrett & is meths fired. ie. it has been pretty thoroughly tested ! Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Speaking of Project Book, has anyone on the list read the new G1MRA "Dee" book? That's the new project that Dick Moger put together. I believe he had that @ DH. Jim
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Clark, I know that when I joined G1MRA the Project book came for free, but looking at the G1MRA website I think that you have to buy it now (cheaper for members). The current book is also a lot fancier than the typewritten original with hand sketches. But it is certainly worth it, and the loco is excellent to build and run, though the boiler may need some help from someone experienced. Peter. -- > From: Clark Lord <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > Date: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:26 AM > > >G1MRA is the Gauge One Model Railway Association and the Project book is > >a detailed set of instructions on how to build a live-steam 0-6-0 loco. > > I'm surprised that no one has mentioned Bob Paule who is the G1MRA US > representative. Bob can be reached evenings M-F 6-9 Central time at > 636-527-8326. > > Bob will take US funds and set you up with a 1 year G1MRA membership. > Part of the welcome package is The Project Book. Alternatively he can > get you a copy of the book only. > > Tell him Clark sent you. > > Clark Lord > Las Vegas Nevada
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
>G1MRA is the Gauge One Model Railway Association and the Project book is >a detailed set of instructions on how to build a live-steam 0-6-0 loco. I'm surprised that no one has mentioned Bob Paule who is the G1MRA US representative. Bob can be reached evenings M-F 6-9 Central time at 636-527-8326. Bob will take US funds and set you up with a 1 year G1MRA membership. Part of the welcome package is The Project Book. Alternatively he can get you a copy of the book only. Tell him Clark sent you. Clark Lord Las Vegas Nevada
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Yes John, on the 15th Sunday at 11am. Directions on:http://www.livesteaming.com/clubs/club_pages/RichmondHill.html Peter -- > From: John Kowalchuk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > Date: Sunday, April 01, 2001 8:48 PM > > At 07:35 PM 4/1/01 -0400, you wrote: > >G1MRA is the Gauge One Model Railway Association and the Project book is a > >detailed set of instructions on how to build a live-steam 0-6-0 loco. > > I had just found the Project Book on either the Small Scale Live Steam site > after I sent those emails. > > >http://www.gaugeone.org/ > > SSLS only has snail mail address, no web address. > > >A relatively simple loco to build and works extremely well, even if it is > >single-cylinder, but will pull a huge load. > > Between this and the Evans book I should be well equiped to tackle the > Porter then the Mike. > > >When you're finished, come and run it at our club near Ballantrae, not far > >from Oshawa. > > Is that where the meeting is on the 15th that Arno mentioned ? > > John Kowalchuk maker of mutes/horns/canoes/paddles/bikes/harps > Oshawa, Ontario http://home.istar.ca/~johnk > > Canadians don't surf the net, we paddle it.
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Casey, The Project book comes only from G1MRA: http://www.gaugeone.org/g1mra_book_sales.htm Peter. -- > From: Casey Sterbenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > Date: Monday, April 02, 2001 7:28 AM > > Is there a domestic US outlet for this book? Or does it have to be ordered > directly from England? If so, what is the approximate cost in $US? > > Casey Sterbenz > > >From: "Peter Trounce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > >Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 19:35:13 -0400 > > > >John, > >G1MRA is the Gauge One Model Railway Association and the Project book is a > >detailed set of instructions on how to build a live-steam 0-6-0 loco. > >Go to: > >http://www.gaugeone.org/ > >to Resources and look for the Project book.
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Is there a domestic US outlet for this book? Or does it have to be ordered directly from England? If so, what is the approximate cost in $US? Casey Sterbenz >From: "Peter Trounce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco >Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 19:35:13 -0400 > >John, >G1MRA is the Gauge One Model Railway Association and the Project book is a >detailed set of instructions on how to build a live-steam 0-6-0 loco. >Go to: >http://www.gaugeone.org/ >to Resources and look for the Project book. _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
At 07:35 PM 4/1/01 -0400, you wrote: >G1MRA is the Gauge One Model Railway Association and the Project book is a >detailed set of instructions on how to build a live-steam 0-6-0 loco. I had just found the Project Book on either the Small Scale Live Steam site after I sent those emails. >http://www.gaugeone.org/ SSLS only has snail mail address, no web address. >A relatively simple loco to build and works extremely well, even if it is >single-cylinder, but will pull a huge load. Between this and the Evans book I should be well equiped to tackle the Porter then the Mike. >When you're finished, come and run it at our club near Ballantrae, not far >from Oshawa. Is that where the meeting is on the 15th that Arno mentioned ? John Kowalchuk maker of mutes/horns/canoes/paddles/bikes/harps Oshawa, Ontario http://home.istar.ca/~johnk Canadians don't surf the net, we paddle it.
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
John, G1MRA is the Gauge One Model Railway Association and the Project book is a detailed set of instructions on how to build a live-steam 0-6-0 loco. Go to: http://www.gaugeone.org/ to Resources and look for the Project book. A relatively simple loco to build and works extremely well, even if it is single-cylinder, but will pull a huge load. Peter Trounce. When you're finished, come and run it at our club near Ballantrae, not far from Oshawa. -- > From: John Kowalchuk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > Date: Sunday, April 01, 2001 3:14 PM > > At 09:55 AM 4/1/01 -0400, Peter Trounce wrote: > >My copy of the book is an old one, so I cannot tell you the page, > > Which book is this and how do I get hold of it? > > John Kowalchuk maker of mutes/horns/canoes/paddles/bikes/harps > Oshawa, Ontario http://home.istar.ca/~johnk > > Canadians don't surf the net, we paddle it.
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
At 09:55 AM 4/1/01 -0400, Peter Trounce wrote: >My copy of the book is an old one, so I cannot tell you the page, Which book is this and how do I get hold of it? John Kowalchuk maker of mutes/horns/canoes/paddles/bikes/harps Oshawa, Ontario http://home.istar.ca/~johnk Canadians don't surf the net, we paddle it.
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Please send me your Email address (off list, please), and I will send you a sketch of how to make the pin Peter Trounce -- > From: $B5L@n!!=c > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: G1MRA Project Loco > Date: Sunday, April 01, 2001 2:47 PM > > Please let me know in detail how to make the special pin for marking > coupling rod on page 14 in the Project Book. > > > > > Jun Kitsukawa > 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka > Fujisawa, Kanagawa > 251-0027 JAPAN > >
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
My copy of the book is an old one, so I cannot tell you the page, but at the end of the description of making the axles, it tells you how to make this pin. There is also a drawing which in my copy does not show you that the end is turned to a 45 degree point, but this is described in the words. Peter Trounce. -- > From: $B5L@n!!=c > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: G1MRA Project Loco > Date: Sunday, April 01, 2001 2:47 PM > > Please let me know in detail how to make the special pin for marking > coupling rod on page 14 in the Project Book. > > > > > Jun Kitsukawa > 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka > Fujisawa, Kanagawa > 251-0027 JAPAN > >
G1MRA Project Loco
Please let me know in detail how to make the special pin for marking coupling rod on page 14 in the Project Book. Jun Kitsukawa 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0027 JAPAN
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
> > Please let me know in detail how to make a special pin for marking > coupling rods. Jun, I'm not sure what you need but look at http://www.fls.org.jm/users/fls/tips/rodjig.html Cheers Keith -- === Keith Manison Phone (876)702-0337 7 Mulberry CloseFax (876)702-0661 Jacks Hill P.A.Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] Kingston 6, Jamaica W.I.
G1MRA Project Loco
Please let me know in detail how to make a special pin for marking coupling rods. Jun Kitsukawa 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0027 JAPAN
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Jun- The 10BA tapped hole in the side rods is to simulate a hinged joint on the prototype's side rods. The full-size 4F's had two piece rods, while our little ones have a single piece rod. Just screw in a 10BA hex-head, file it flush on the back, and it will make the rod look nice. -Jon
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
The tapped hole is for a 10BA hex head screw to represent a bolt on the full-sized loco, Peter Trounce -- > From: $B5L@n!!=c > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: G1MRA Project Loco > Date: Sunday, March 18, 2001 2:32 PM > > I have a question about construction of G1MRA Project Loco. > What for is tap 10BA of coupling rod? > > > > > Jun Kitsukawa > 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka > Fujisawa, Kanagawa > 251-0027 JAPAN > >
G1MRA Project Loco
I have a question about construction of G1MRA Project Loco. What for is tap 10BA of coupling rod? Jun Kitsukawa 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0027 JAPAN
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
My Ruby (ser. #276) has R/C added (no "de-glitcher") and doesn't seem to have that problem. I only use one servo on the J-bar but have considered adding a servo to the steam valve just to "fine-tune" the smoothness of rolling off from a dead stop. After saying that, I really don't remember the last time that I ran the Ruby without pulling any cars. The added weight probably smooths things a bit. I usually open my steam valve enough to allow running at the maximum desired speed when the J-bar is in the full forward or reverse position. Gas valve set to just maintain steam at that speed. I have noticed that if I open the steam valve more than I usually do, Ruby seems to be less controllable through the J-bar. I have pretty much discovered where the "brotherhood notch" is on my particular Ruby and operate close to that on most runs. I'm FAR from an expert on R/C or steam. Just thought I'd share what worked for me. Later, Trent "M. Paterson" wrote: > > The Ruby has a very course adjustment on the > throttle and a small adjustment provides a significant > change in steam release. > mp >
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
Hey Walt, thanks for the info! HAM Radio?! For some odd reason I had never thought of that causing a problem. I have a "HAM guy" at the end of the street. That might explain why I have a few problems on occasion. OK, now where do I find the "de-glitchers"? I'll check at my local hobby shop. Later, Trent [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > the dam ham > operator on the next block. >
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
Hi, Electronics and I are not on a first name basis. All I know is it is a gadget with little (dip?) switches on it that change the rate at which things happen. It plugs in to the receiver and the servo is plugged in to it. I know that it reduces much of the radio interference I get from the buried telephone lines, the cable TV, the overhead power lines, and the dam ham operator on the next block. Keep your steam up! Walt & Lunk
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
"Deglitcher", are we discussing a capacitor bridge in series with the signal to the servo or is this placing another electrical circuit between the the xmiter and rcvr? The Ruby has a very course adjustment on the throttle and a small adjustment provides a significant change in steam release. mp --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > To get finer adjustment on the servo controlled > throttle, try using a > "deglitcher," it lengthens the time, or slows down > the movement of the servo. > Seems to have helped my loco's. > Walt __ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
To get finer adjustment on the servo controlled throttle, try using a "deglitcher," it lengthens the time, or slows down the movement of the servo. Seems to have helped my loco's. Walt
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
Bruce, in response. I have ended up working with 3 different Ruby's and by this thread and pure stumbling have started to learn a little about steam. My Ruby ran well out of the box (#096)this engine is now being kit bashed into a 0-4-2 Baldwin type Plantation engine. The second engine belonged to a local dealer. We found that the screws had loosen on the eccentrics and were able to adj and lock them. The third engine came to me after it had been modified. Found this engine had numerous steam leaks, all solved by just tightening screws, fittings and adjustment the steam slide valve/j-bar. Two of the three engines now have #3jets, I have seen some improvement is run time, however I am now worried about the possibility of running the boiler dry as a full charge of iso-butane will out last a boiler with 80cc of water at startup. Concerning the safety valve, I have observed that the earlier models were not consistent in release point. The newer production models seem to done away with this variation. Finally grade. No my track is not level, rather at ground level and has gradients of up to 2% with minimum radius of 44". Because of this I have gone to RC control of both the Ruby and FrankS. I have not been as successful in slowing the Ruby performance as I have the FrankS. I am using a single servo in both, it looks like I will have to add a second to the Ruby to control the throttle. I would really like to have a finer thread on the steam throttle as adjustment is very course currently. Thanks for your input. Mike --- Bruce Gathman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:16:25 -0700 (PDT), you wrote: > > >Bruce, would your or members of your steamer group > be > >willing to share with this thread your timing > >procedure? I was fortunate that my engine was > >reasonably adjusted but the one I am currently > working > >with does not want to slow down after I solved the > >problem of steam pressure loss. > > While running the locomotive on test rollers, not > just > suspended between two blocks, to maintain some > rolling > resistance we ensured that both the forward and > reverse > positions of the Johnson Bar steamed the locomotive > equally. > Just setting the little mark in its proper position > according to the Accucraft instructions was not > adequate as > it ran considerably better in reverse. The correct > adjustment ended up being inside the cylinder cover > on the > new loco. > > > By gauge this engine > >is running at approx 40psi (I have not way of > >confirming this pressure only that it is just below > >the release of the safety valve that has been > modified > >by adding a washer. > > I still have the original safety valve unmodified on > my > locomotive. It runs well and pulls well without a > new > safety valve and because I set the gas valve as low > as I can > it never pops off but just maintains sufficient > steam to > continue running at the desired speed. I did put in > a #3 > gas jet from Sulphur Springs to cut down on gas > consumption > to extend the run time. Not sure if this helped as > the runs > were about the same length as before to change. > > Are you running on level track? > > >mp > > > >--- Bruce Gathman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> Several of us were pulling eight car trains, > >> Bachmann cars > >> with metal wheels, this past weekend with our > Ruby's > >> at > >> Larry Hergets. Mine has a low serial number and > the > >> other > >> loco was brand new and around the 600 serial > number > >> range. > >> The new loco ran beautifully(slow) once we got > >> everything > >> timed and adjusted. > >> > >> > >> On Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:22:30 EDT, you wrote: > >> > >> >In a message dated 09/18/00 9:00:26 PM Central > >> Daylight Time, > >> >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > >> > > >> ><< Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power > from > >> their Ruby? I'm getting > >> > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of > >> trouble pulling herself > >> > up a grade. ... as I want to put a tender > behind > >> her ...>> > >> > > >> >That hasn't been my experience at all. In fact, > I > >> regularly pull a heavy > >> >metal tender (maxitrack) and a couple of cars > (all > >> four axle)...but now as I > >> >speak the grade is minimal...less than 1%. > >> > > >> >Jim Crabb > >> >Seabrook > >> > >> > >> Bruce Gathman, President > >> Eldorado Timber & Mining Co. > >> Tall Trees - Deep Shafts > > > > > >__ > >Do You Yahoo!? > >Send instant messages & get email alerts with > Yahoo! Messenger. > >http://im.yahoo.com/ > > > Bruce Gathman, President > Eldorado Timber & Mining Co. > Tall Trees - Deep Shafts __ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
Thanks, I already have that info. What I am looking for is adj of the eccentrics on the axles. Since these are held in place by set screws not all of them are tight after shipment. I have been lucky so far as only very minor adjustments have been necessary when tightening the set screws and securing with Loctite. mp --- Charles Brumbelow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The Accurcraft web site -- http://www.accucraft.com/ > -- has a "how-to" > with diagram for adjusting Ruby's valve motion. > Since my Ruby hasn't > arrived yet, I cannot speak to the procedure itself > . . . Charles > > "M. Paterson" wrote: > > > > Bruce, would your or members of your steamer group > be > > willing to share with this thread your timing > > procedure? I was fortunate that my engine was > > reasonably adjusted but the one I am currently > working > > with does not want to slow down after I solved the > > problem of steam pressure loss. By gauge this > engine > > is running at approx 40psi (I have not way of > > confirming this pressure only that it is just > below > > the release of the safety valve that has been > modified > > by adding a washer. > > mp > > > > --- Bruce Gathman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Several of us were pulling eight car trains, > > > Bachmann cars > > > with metal wheels, this past weekend with our > Ruby's > > > at > > > Larry Hergets. Mine has a low serial number and > the > > > other > > > loco was brand new and around the 600 serial > number > > > range. > > > The new loco ran beautifully(slow) once we got > > > everything > > > timed and adjusted. > > > > > > > > > On Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:22:30 EDT, you wrote: > > > > > > >In a message dated 09/18/00 9:00:26 PM Central > > > Daylight Time, > > > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > > > > > ><< Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power > from > > > their Ruby? I'm getting > > > > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit > of > > > trouble pulling herself > > > > up a grade. ... as I want to put a tender > behind > > > her ...>> > > > > > > > >That hasn't been my experience at all. In > fact, I > > > regularly pull a heavy > > > >metal tender (maxitrack) and a couple of cars > (all > > > four axle)...but now as I > > > >speak the grade is minimal...less than 1%. > > > > > > > >Jim Crabb > > > >Seabrook > > > > > > > > > Bruce Gathman, President > > > Eldorado Timber & Mining Co. > > > Tall Trees - Deep Shafts > > > > __ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Send instant messages & get email alerts with > Yahoo! Messenger. > > http://im.yahoo.com/ __ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
The Accurcraft web site -- http://www.accucraft.com/ -- has a "how-to" with diagram for adjusting Ruby's valve motion. Since my Ruby hasn't arrived yet, I cannot speak to the procedure itself . . . Charles "M. Paterson" wrote: > > Bruce, would your or members of your steamer group be > willing to share with this thread your timing > procedure? I was fortunate that my engine was > reasonably adjusted but the one I am currently working > with does not want to slow down after I solved the > problem of steam pressure loss. By gauge this engine > is running at approx 40psi (I have not way of > confirming this pressure only that it is just below > the release of the safety valve that has been modified > by adding a washer. > mp > > --- Bruce Gathman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Several of us were pulling eight car trains, > > Bachmann cars > > with metal wheels, this past weekend with our Ruby's > > at > > Larry Hergets. Mine has a low serial number and the > > other > > loco was brand new and around the 600 serial number > > range. > > The new loco ran beautifully(slow) once we got > > everything > > timed and adjusted. > > > > > > On Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:22:30 EDT, you wrote: > > > > >In a message dated 09/18/00 9:00:26 PM Central > > Daylight Time, > > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > > > ><< Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from > > their Ruby? I'm getting > > > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of > > trouble pulling herself > > > up a grade. ... as I want to put a tender behind > > her ...>> > > > > > >That hasn't been my experience at all. In fact, I > > regularly pull a heavy > > >metal tender (maxitrack) and a couple of cars (all > > four axle)...but now as I > > >speak the grade is minimal...less than 1%. > > > > > >Jim Crabb > > >Seabrook > > > > > > Bruce Gathman, President > > Eldorado Timber & Mining Co. > > Tall Trees - Deep Shafts > > __ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. > http://im.yahoo.com/
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
On Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:16:25 -0700 (PDT), you wrote: >Bruce, would your or members of your steamer group be >willing to share with this thread your timing >procedure? I was fortunate that my engine was >reasonably adjusted but the one I am currently working >with does not want to slow down after I solved the >problem of steam pressure loss. While running the locomotive on test rollers, not just suspended between two blocks, to maintain some rolling resistance we ensured that both the forward and reverse positions of the Johnson Bar steamed the locomotive equally. Just setting the little mark in its proper position according to the Accucraft instructions was not adequate as it ran considerably better in reverse. The correct adjustment ended up being inside the cylinder cover on the new loco. > By gauge this engine >is running at approx 40psi (I have not way of >confirming this pressure only that it is just below >the release of the safety valve that has been modified >by adding a washer. I still have the original safety valve unmodified on my locomotive. It runs well and pulls well without a new safety valve and because I set the gas valve as low as I can it never pops off but just maintains sufficient steam to continue running at the desired speed. I did put in a #3 gas jet from Sulphur Springs to cut down on gas consumption to extend the run time. Not sure if this helped as the runs were about the same length as before to change. Are you running on level track? >mp > >--- Bruce Gathman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> Several of us were pulling eight car trains, >> Bachmann cars >> with metal wheels, this past weekend with our Ruby's >> at >> Larry Hergets. Mine has a low serial number and the >> other >> loco was brand new and around the 600 serial number >> range. >> The new loco ran beautifully(slow) once we got >> everything >> timed and adjusted. >> >> >> On Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:22:30 EDT, you wrote: >> >> >In a message dated 09/18/00 9:00:26 PM Central >> Daylight Time, >> >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: >> > >> ><< Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from >> their Ruby? I'm getting >> > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of >> trouble pulling herself >> > up a grade. ... as I want to put a tender behind >> her ...>> >> > >> >That hasn't been my experience at all. In fact, I >> regularly pull a heavy >> >metal tender (maxitrack) and a couple of cars (all >> four axle)...but now as I >> >speak the grade is minimal...less than 1%. >> > >> >Jim Crabb >> >Seabrook >> >> >> Bruce Gathman, President >> Eldorado Timber & Mining Co. >> Tall Trees - Deep Shafts > > >__ >Do You Yahoo!? >Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. >http://im.yahoo.com/ Bruce Gathman, President Eldorado Timber & Mining Co. Tall Trees - Deep Shafts
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
Bruce, would your or members of your steamer group be willing to share with this thread your timing procedure? I was fortunate that my engine was reasonably adjusted but the one I am currently working with does not want to slow down after I solved the problem of steam pressure loss. By gauge this engine is running at approx 40psi (I have not way of confirming this pressure only that it is just below the release of the safety valve that has been modified by adding a washer. mp --- Bruce Gathman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Several of us were pulling eight car trains, > Bachmann cars > with metal wheels, this past weekend with our Ruby's > at > Larry Hergets. Mine has a low serial number and the > other > loco was brand new and around the 600 serial number > range. > The new loco ran beautifully(slow) once we got > everything > timed and adjusted. > > > On Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:22:30 EDT, you wrote: > > >In a message dated 09/18/00 9:00:26 PM Central > Daylight Time, > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > ><< Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from > their Ruby? I'm getting > > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of > trouble pulling herself > > up a grade. ... as I want to put a tender behind > her ...>> > > > >That hasn't been my experience at all. In fact, I > regularly pull a heavy > >metal tender (maxitrack) and a couple of cars (all > four axle)...but now as I > >speak the grade is minimal...less than 1%. > > > >Jim Crabb > >Seabrook > > > Bruce Gathman, President > Eldorado Timber & Mining Co. > Tall Trees - Deep Shafts __ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
Re: (was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
Several of us were pulling eight car trains, Bachmann cars with metal wheels, this past weekend with our Ruby's at Larry Hergets. Mine has a low serial number and the other loco was brand new and around the 600 serial number range. The new loco ran beautifully(slow) once we got everything timed and adjusted. On Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:22:30 EDT, you wrote: >In a message dated 09/18/00 9:00:26 PM Central Daylight Time, >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > ><< Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from their Ruby? I'm getting > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of trouble pulling herself > up a grade. ... as I want to put a tender behind her ...>> > >That hasn't been my experience at all. In fact, I regularly pull a heavy >metal tender (maxitrack) and a couple of cars (all four axle)...but now as I >speak the grade is minimal...less than 1%. > >Jim Crabb >Seabrook Bruce Gathman, President Eldorado Timber & Mining Co. Tall Trees - Deep Shafts
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Which ever works. > Ahhh; Dan; Are we cutting down the trees or the tree huggers here? Just > thought I'd ask. > I like the the idea of using disconnects personally. >
RE: White vinegar (received as "G1MRA Project Loco")
Thanks Steve, I knew that someone out there knew- Wish I could join you for the second experiment! Now, my coal fired locos?? Will the vinegar help the "black lung" disease coal miners used to get? and us coal firers too? I will steam one of my alcohol fired locos with vinegar, my Grasshopper most probably. Hey Clark and Steve, here is a thought for you--wot 'appens when the vinegar steam mixes with the steam oil? Wot do we have then --OK, I know--Italian salad dressing! Informed Geoff. Chemistry classes at school before "better living through chemistry" became >a counter-culture sneer: an alcohol plus an acid produces an ester. (Plus >water? I forget.) > >Esters are the stuff of fragrances. The fragrance depends on the acid and >alcohol that are selected. Ethanol, propanol, and methanol should produce >different smells when mixed with vinegar (acetic acid). It could be a new >way to characterize and to qualify various sources of hooch. > >At home I have acetic acid, but only half a jug of stove alcohol and a >bottle of cabernet. Tonight I will do two experiments. One experiment will >involve vinegar. The other experiment will not. I will post the results. > >-Original Message- >From: Geoff Spenceley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] >Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 12:06 PM >To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam >Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > > >Clark advised: > >>K: Make a run with a boiler full of white vinegar. That will make a >>new girl out of her. Works for us here in sunny Las Vegas >> >>CB > >Will it work with alcohol fired locos?? H-M-M-M--Alchol and vinegar. A side >benefit -if I had a condensing engine would I get chablis, burgundy or >gin?? Of course with butane and vinegar, all you'd get would be a clean >boiler with the smell of rotten eggs! > >Invinegarated Geoff. > > > > > >
RE: White vinegar (received as "G1MRA Project Loco")
Chemistry classes at school before "better living through chemistry" became a counter-culture sneer: an alcohol plus an acid produces an ester. (Plus water? I forget.) Esters are the stuff of fragrances. The fragrance depends on the acid and alcohol that are selected. Ethanol, propanol, and methanol should produce different smells when mixed with vinegar (acetic acid). It could be a new way to characterize and to qualify various sources of hooch. At home I have acetic acid, but only half a jug of stove alcohol and a bottle of cabernet. Tonight I will do two experiments. One experiment will involve vinegar. The other experiment will not. I will post the results. -Original Message- From: Geoff Spenceley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 12:06 PM To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco Clark advised: >K: Make a run with a boiler full of white vinegar. That will make a >new girl out of her. Works for us here in sunny Las Vegas > >CB Will it work with alcohol fired locos?? H-M-M-M--Alchol and vinegar. A side benefit -if I had a condensing engine would I get chablis, burgundy or gin?? Of course with butane and vinegar, all you'd get would be a clean boiler with the smell of rotten eggs! Invinegarated Geoff.
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Clark advised: >K: Make a run with a boiler full of white vinegar. That will make a >new girl out of her. Works for us here in sunny Las Vegas > >CB Will it work with alcohol fired locos?? H-M-M-M--Alchol and vinegar. A side benefit -if I had a condensing engine would I get chablis, burgundy or gin?? Of course with butane and vinegar, all you'd get would be a clean boiler with the smell of rotten eggs! Invinegarated Geoff.
Re: Ruby anemia (was G1MRA Project Loco)
Expanding on Vance's comments. I have been working with a poor performing Ruby belonging to one of our club members. Increasing the safety valve pressure release to approx 40 psi and tightening all of the steam fittings has produced and engine that runs like a scared rabbit in Australia. A quarter turn on a fitting will make a difference. I am now changing the gas jet to a Sulphur Springs #3 and will provide info on the results. mp --- VR Bass <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from > their Ruby? I'm getting > > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of > trouble pulling herself up > > a grade. > > Yes, I have. I attribute it to two problems: first, > my right-hand cylinder > developed a leak where the gland packing would have > been, if it had been a > more expensive locomotive. (No complaints here, > just an observation.) > Second, the safety valve pops off at about 25 psi, > which is pathetic. > > Accucraft fixed the first problem by sending a new > rear cylinder cover. > Installation was very simple. I haven't had an > opportunity to run it since > installing the cover, but I'm convinced that this > was a large part of my > problem. Watch your engine for signs of condensed > steam oil on the front > driving wheel. Also, check for steam leaks in other > places (e.g. union > connectors). > > Bob Paule of Sulphur Springs fixed the second > problem with a 40 psi safety > valve. This really adds a lot to the pulling power > and repsonsiveness of the > engine. Someone on the list also mentioned > inserting E-clips or washers at > the base of the valve stem to compress the spring > and thereby raise the > operating pressure. Either way, more steam pressure > will help. > > I can't imagine why Clark's vinegar treatment would > work unless you're > running tap water in your boiler. Clark, don't they > distill water out there > anymore? :-) > > And, please, folks -- change the Subject: line when > the topic changes. I > almost junked the whole G1MRA Project thread because > I don't know much > about them. > > -vance- __ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Are you serious? Charles Clark Lord wrote: > > Kevin Strong wrote: > > Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from their Ruby? I'm getting > > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of trouble pulling herself > > up a grade. > > K: Make a run with a boiler full of white vinegar. That will make a > new girl out of her. Works for us here in sunny Las Vegas > > CB
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
I think Galveston and Corpus Christi, among others, would disagree with
you about hurricanes!
Charles
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> a! ;]
>
> Other thing is that we in Texas don't have to worry 'bout no stinkin'
> hurrycanes!
>
> 'Course a bit 'a rain would be nice now an then... :(
>
> Trot, the tree-hugging, fox... (don't care that much for granola
> though... {:/ )
>
> On Mon, 18 Sep 2000, Dan Pantages wrote:
>
> > Yes, falling down in Florida really is like falling off a log...sorry, I
> > forgot they don't have any trees either.
> >
> > Dan, from the Great Bear Forest in the North. ( choke ) well that's what the
> > Granola Eating Tree Huggers call it.
> >
> > I say cut them all down, load them on disconnects and run 'em out on the
> > rails!
> >
> > Dan
> >
> > The dogs and cats aint
> > > around, they are long gone to the hills and the woods. 'Course -you don't
> > > have to worry about hills in Florida!
> > >
> > > Worried Uncle Geoff. -whoops- somefings moving!! OK, I think it's just me
> > > bowels!
> > >
> > > >
> > > >Any other ideas out there? Mr. Spenceley??
> > > >
> > > >Jim Curry
>
> TrotFox \ Always remember, /\-/\
> AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a ( o o )
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." >\./<
>
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Ahhh; Dan; Are we cutting down the trees or the tree huggers here? Just thought I'd ask. I like the the idea of using disconnects personally. Phil.P. Reading,Pa. > > Dan, from the Great Bear Forest in the North. ( choke ) well that's what the > Granola Eating Tree Huggers call it. > > I say cut them all down, load them on disconnects and run 'em out on the > rails! > > Dan > > The dogs and cats aint > > around, they are long gone to the hills and the woods. 'Course -you don't > > have to worry about hills in Florida! > > > > Worried Uncle Geoff. -whoops- somefings moving!! OK, I think it's just me > > bowels! > > > > > > > >Any other ideas out there? Mr. Spenceley?? > > > > > >Jim Curry > > > > > > > > > > >
Re: Ruby anemia (was G1MRA Project Loco)
VR Bass wrote: > I can't imagine why Clark's vinegar treatment would work unless you're > running tap water in your boiler. Clark, don't they distill water out there > anymore? :-) Actually we just put water in the boiler and place it in the sun. Steam is up in no time and away we go. No muss, no fuss. VBG Really ... Don't knock it until you try it. (Vinegar that is.) Amazing things happen. I'll let you chemists et. al. figure it all out. And Vance's two hints (looking and fixing steam leaks; raising boiler pressure) will go a long way on any engine. My Frank S (Frank the Tank #6) has a Aster Americanized Mogul safety. Improves performance greatly. CB
Ruby anemia (was G1MRA Project Loco)
> Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from their Ruby? I'm getting > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of trouble pulling herself up > a grade. Yes, I have. I attribute it to two problems: first, my right-hand cylinder developed a leak where the gland packing would have been, if it had been a more expensive locomotive. (No complaints here, just an observation.) Second, the safety valve pops off at about 25 psi, which is pathetic. Accucraft fixed the first problem by sending a new rear cylinder cover. Installation was very simple. I haven't had an opportunity to run it since installing the cover, but I'm convinced that this was a large part of my problem. Watch your engine for signs of condensed steam oil on the front driving wheel. Also, check for steam leaks in other places (e.g. union connectors). Bob Paule of Sulphur Springs fixed the second problem with a 40 psi safety valve. This really adds a lot to the pulling power and repsonsiveness of the engine. Someone on the list also mentioned inserting E-clips or washers at the base of the valve stem to compress the spring and thereby raise the operating pressure. Either way, more steam pressure will help. I can't imagine why Clark's vinegar treatment would work unless you're running tap water in your boiler. Clark, don't they distill water out there anymore? :-) And, please, folks -- change the Subject: line when the topic changes. I almost junked the whole G1MRA Project thread because I don't know much about them. -vance-
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
So, what's the less poluting fuel, butane or propane? };]
Trot, the topic-dodging, fox... {:]
On Mon, 18 Sep 2000, Dan Pantages wrote:
> The loggers here like to bury the granola and hugger at the base of a tree,
> it makes them grow just as well as using Spotted Owl as fertiliser.
>
> Dan
TrotFox \ Always remember, /\-/\
AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a ( o o )
[EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." >\./<
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
On Mon, 18 Sep 2000, Kevin Strong wrote: > Oh really??? I'd bet the folks in Galveston would beg to differ... Ok then, I'll rephrase that to include Dallas next time. ;] > Seriously, though - back to steam content... > > Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from their Ruby? I'm getting > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of trouble pulling herself > up a grade. This is just a bit disconcerting, as I want to put a tender > behind her, and don't have any plans on adding a steam booster to it. If > this is normal, I apologize for taking up valuable bandwidth, but since > I'm using Ruby to get my girlfriend involved in live steam, I kinda want > it to work. I'd call it semi-normal. I've noticed a few comments to the same effect and I know that mine is quite wimpy. The biggest trouble I have is that the piston rod seals leak steam. It'll actually produce a jet of steam when the lokie is up to temp. As long as the cranks are set to get power from the front half of the cylinder she's fine but if there's not enough momentum to carry through the other half-revolution she stalls and blows. :( There is a higher presure safty valve soulution that's supposed to help this out but I haven't even gotten to play with her since I found out about it. Sulphur Springs should have info on the valve. I've also heard that if you're having trouble with this you can get new rear cylinder caps from Accucraft. Now I just gotta set up an oval out on the patio of my Apt so I can boil water again! ;] > Later, > > K Trot, the semi-steamable, fox... TrotFox \ Always remember, /\-/\ AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a ( o o ) [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." >\./<
(was G1MRA Project Loco) now Ruby pulling power
In a message dated 09/18/00 9:00:26 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from their Ruby? I'm getting long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of trouble pulling herself up a grade. ... as I want to put a tender behind her ...>> That hasn't been my experience at all. In fact, I regularly pull a heavy metal tender (maxitrack) and a couple of cars (all four axle)...but now as I speak the grade is minimal...less than 1%. Jim Crabb Seabrook
(was G1MRA Project Loco) now it's weather
In a message dated 09/18/00 8:44:13 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << Other thing is that we in Texas don't have to worry 'bout no stinkin' hurrycanes! >> Speak for yourself (in Dallas area) we in Texas along the coast (especially if you own a boat) are VERY MUCH aware of and worry 'bout dem hurrycanes!!! Jim Crabb Seabrook (along the coast) Texas
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Kevin Strong wrote: > Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from their Ruby? I'm getting > long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of trouble pulling herself > up a grade. K: Make a run with a boiler full of white vinegar. That will make a new girl out of her. Works for us here in sunny Las Vegas CB
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > a! ;] > > Other thing is that we in Texas don't have to worry 'bout no stinkin' > hurrycanes! > Oh really??? I'd bet the folks in Galveston would beg to differ... Seriously, though - back to steam content... Has anyone noticed a lack of pulling power from their Ruby? I'm getting long enough runs, but it seems she has a bit of trouble pulling herself up a grade. This is just a bit disconcerting, as I want to put a tender behind her, and don't have any plans on adding a steam booster to it. If this is normal, I apologize for taking up valuable bandwidth, but since I'm using Ruby to get my girlfriend involved in live steam, I kinda want it to work. Later, K
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
The loggers here like to bury the granola and hugger at the base of a tree,
it makes them grow just as well as using Spotted Owl as fertiliser.
Dan
> Trot, the tree-hugging, fox... (don't care that much for granola
> though... {:/ )
>
> On Mon, 18 Sep 2000, Dan Pantages wrote:
>
> > Dan, from the Great Bear Forest in the North. ( choke ) well that's what
the
> > Granola Eating Tree Huggers call it.
> >
> > I say cut them all down, load them on disconnects and run 'em out on the
> > rails!
> >
> > Dan
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
a! ;]
Other thing is that we in Texas don't have to worry 'bout no stinkin'
hurrycanes!
'Course a bit 'a rain would be nice now an then... :(
Trot, the tree-hugging, fox... (don't care that much for granola
though... {:/ )
On Mon, 18 Sep 2000, Dan Pantages wrote:
> Yes, falling down in Florida really is like falling off a log...sorry, I
> forgot they don't have any trees either.
>
> Dan, from the Great Bear Forest in the North. ( choke ) well that's what the
> Granola Eating Tree Huggers call it.
>
> I say cut them all down, load them on disconnects and run 'em out on the
> rails!
>
> Dan
>
> The dogs and cats aint
> > around, they are long gone to the hills and the woods. 'Course -you don't
> > have to worry about hills in Florida!
> >
> > Worried Uncle Geoff. -whoops- somefings moving!! OK, I think it's just me
> > bowels!
> >
> > >
> > >Any other ideas out there? Mr. Spenceley??
> > >
> > >Jim Curry
TrotFox \ Always remember, /\-/\
AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a ( o o )
[EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." >\./<
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Yes, falling down in Florida really is like falling off a log...sorry, I forgot they don't have any trees either. Dan, from the Great Bear Forest in the North. ( choke ) well that's what the Granola Eating Tree Huggers call it. I say cut them all down, load them on disconnects and run 'em out on the rails! Dan The dogs and cats aint > around, they are long gone to the hills and the woods. 'Course -you don't > have to worry about hills in Florida! > > Worried Uncle Geoff. -whoops- somefings moving!! OK, I think it's just me > bowels! > > > > >Any other ideas out there? Mr. Spenceley?? > > > >Jim Curry > > > > >
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Hey Jim, You request MY input- I am only a "fiddler' !! -I"m more confused about most things than The Lunk is with his LOVERLY(?) FLORIDIAN weather!-Furthermore, we don't need hearing aids out here as we instinctively "feel" when an earthquake has arrived. The dogs and cats aint around, they are long gone to the hills and the woods. 'Course -you don't have to worry about hills in Florida! Worried Uncle Geoff. -whoops- somefings moving!! OK, I think it's just me bowels! > >Any other ideas out there? Mr. Spenceley?? > >Jim Curry >
Re: G1MRA Project Loco
Jun: I believe they are talking about a flat piece of steel with a stub of 3/16" round stock screwed into it. The wheel fits over the round stock, gets secured(with a nut on the round stock) and you mount that fixture in your drill press. When you have measured 10mm from the center of the axle hole you drill your #39 drill for the crankpin hole. Any other ideas out there? Mr. Spenceley?? Jim Curry
G1MRA Project Loco
Please tell me how to make a drilling jig in " The Project Book " on page 14. Jun Kitsukawa 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka Fujisawa Kanagawa 251-0027 JAPAN
About G1MRA Project Loco
Please tell me how to make a drilling jig in " The Project Book " on page 14. Jun Kitsukawa 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka Fujisawa Kanagawa 251-0027 JAPAN
