Charlie,
I removed Sky-liner or spray hood. Maybe 20 SS wood screws hold it in place and
much adhesive caulk. Use a battery powered drill driver and you'll have it off
in minutes. It's not that heavy, since it is cored w 3/8" balsa. One person can
handle it. Removing the caulk took more time th
Edd and Ken,
Chuck contacted me with concern about the way the PO engineered a fix for
this weakness. Now I can't help being equally interested in pictures of
your boats.
Josh
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On Aug 22, 2013 10:31 AM, "Edd Schillay" wrote:
> Rich,
>
>
Google "Amsteel eye splice".
http://ropeandline.wordpress.com/2011/03/10/splicing-an-eye-into-spectra-amsteel-dyneema-12-plait-line/
You'll need to have a sharp pair of scissors to cut the line, a sharpie to mark
the strands that get cut to taper each end and you need to calculate the fid
le
I'll check it out as suggested when I get an extra hand on the boat. I was
looking at it this evening and did notice the spring in its proper
location...Good. On a side note (I should start a new thread but forgot my
password) I have always had water in my bilge and tonight while spraying water
Rich,
Check out the pictures I took of my rig. I knew this area to be a weakness
of the 37+ because I had almost bought Blue Pearl a 1990 37+. The port
side U-bolt looked to have previously pulled nearly completely out. The
surveyor almost missed it since it had been partially repaired.
I was
If you have someone run the throttle cable up and down while you watch at the
engine, you should see the lever bottom out at the spring-loaded stop; then
pull the throttle back a bit more and the engine stop mechanism will kick in.
I just replace my engine control cables, and it's easy to feel
Thanks for the diagram. The bracket as illustrated, showing the stop cable
attached, is the one I was previously referring to. Unfortunately, my 1980 LF38
does not have this cable installed.
Thanks for the additional info Fred, sounds like I have the same set up as your
boat. Not sure how stiff
Charlie
I removed my spray hood while on vacation. It wasn’t a big deal. It took
longer to clean up under it. There was no sealant around the edges. Some fool
put silicone at the companionway. After all cleaned up I put a strip of butyl
tape along all edges and re-installed the spray hood.
Rich -- my 1979 LF38 has no stop cable, either; you stop the engine by
throttling down to idle; then there's a spring-loaded lever on the throttle
assembly at the engine, where if you pull the throttle lever a bit further, it
stops the engine. This is on a Yanmar 3QM30. It could be that the sp
Thanks, auto-correct and all!
Joel
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 23, 2013, at 2:28 PM, Josh Muckley wrote:
I would do similar to a core-to-core or a continuous loop splice where the
jacket is fed up inside and tapered over 3 did lengths. Then "milk" it
tight down to the bitter end of the amsteel an
Rich,
I don't believe I have a stop cable. Would the stop cable attach to a bracket
close to where the throttle cable connects to. I see a bracket where a cable
might attach to there, but no cable. As far as a cable knob, I don't see one
either. Below the engine panel and between the fuel gage
Charlie,
Assuming your setup is similar to mine, you do have to remove the spray hood
which covers the hatch rails. I've had mine off three different times trying
to fix the leak I mentioned without removing the skylight itself. No dice. So
I'm reinstalling the skylight "correctly" after whic
Glad you posted that, Fred. I was about to, with trepidation, now you get the
heat:)
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-08-23, at 15:35, Frederick G Street wrote:
Try these… :^)
http://keep0smiling.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/even-more-very-funny-autocorrect-fails.html?m=1
Fred Street
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ua-yJgrg2rc
Here is how I did my lifelines.
On 8/23/13, Indigo wrote:
> I have just been persuaded by West Marine to use Amsteel to make a short
> (2ft) strop to raise the upper swivel on my roller furler so that the
> entry/exit angle to the sheave is better t
Try these… :^)
http://keep0smiling.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/even-more-very-funny-autocorrect-fails.html?m=1
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Aug 23, 2013, at 1:29 PM, Josh Muckley wrote:
> That's supposed to be "3 FID lengths". Damn autocorrect
That's supposed to be "3 FID lengths". Damn autocorrect!
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On Aug 23, 2013 2:28 PM, "Josh Muckley" wrote:
> I would do similar to a core-to-core or a continuous loop splice where the
> jacket is fed up inside and tapered over 3 did lengths.
I would do similar to a core-to-core or a continuous loop splice where the
jacket is fed up inside and tapered over 3 did lengths. Then "milk" it
tight down to the bitter end of the amsteel and whip normally.
Josh
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On Aug 23, 2013 12:40 PM,
Arieto (now Calypso) is hull #1 and won its class at SORC the same year. The
"Limited Edition" 43's including Endurance did very well until the later 70's
as lighter, better IOR rated boats became dominant.
I am onboard now headed to Anacortes WA to participate in the Northern Century
100 race
I appreciate the prompt responses and I'm glad we all feel the same way. I
researched it over at the 34/36 Google group ( I just discovered the
group. Thanks Chuck ) and all concur there as well.
The boat came with 1 1/2 ID hose, C&C designed it that way, and Yanmar
approved. I would think
hose.
Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Messag
Google "Amsteel eye splice" or something similar. There's lots of information on line. Even videos.
I want to replace my outhaul with Amsteel and put a cover on the end
that goes through the clutch. I can't find any instructions on line.
Do I just feed the Amsteel through the cover with a fid and then
stitch it?
Joel
Sent from my iPad
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Jonathan,
Try the Samson or NE Rope splicing instructions available on their
websites. Eye splices are so easy even I can do them!
Joel
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 23, 2013, at 12:35 PM, Indigo wrote:
I have just been persuaded by West Marine to use Amsteel to make a short
(2ft) strop to raise
I have just been persuaded by West Marine to use Amsteel to make a short
(2ft) strop to raise the upper swivel on my roller furler so that the
entry/exit angle to the sheave is better to prevent a halyard wrap. In the
store, they made it sound so easy to splice round a thimble.!
Essentially th
My 1995 36 XL/kcb has a 'sky liner' also--and it has a few leaks or at least
the water gets around it into the companionway/cabin.
AFAIK, it looks like I need to remove the entire hatch cover 'cover'/'surround'
to be able to remove and re bed/clean-up/replace this 'smoked' Lexan/acrylic
sheet.
Thanks Alan
Yes I’m using some good quality Trident sanitation hose.
At the moment I though I’d hold on any self-pumpout option. Not sure, for one
thing, if I’ve got the space for it!
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII
... soon to be renamed
From: Alan Bergen
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 1
Yes, Ken is correct, the skylight is directly bonded to the flat surface of the
deck. I have removed it as well as all of the original adhesive used to attach
it. I will be rebonding it next week with Sika 295iUV. I'm hoping that will
take care of a leak that has found its way in between th
Ah well people can be a bit stupid abou their pets said Hagrid wisely Behind him
i've sent you a Offline messageClick to read the alerts
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The skylights are a beautiful addition to the later C&C designed boats. I love
seeing the entire rig from below.
I have a couple of leaks in the corners of ours. I don't think the boat flexes
much in this area, but there is a slight crown to the frame and the plexi wants
to be flat. The plexi f
> When I removed the EDSON 335 pedestal, there was a swaged wire fitted to
> the quadrant and attached to the chain. When I sent this to EDSON, they
> said that is not an EDSON setup, and that all EDSON set ups use SS wire,
> thimbles and nicropress sleees.
>
> Is that what other listers ha
They did my windows and a hatch with the same adhesive with great results.
When I did my hatches they said Dow 795 was also fine to use. I did a
hatch with it, and it does not leak either.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 9:55 AM, Monty Schumpert wrote:
> Several years ago I replac
Several years ago I replaced one of the windows on my 34+. Maritime Plastics in
Annapolis cut the acrylic window (in two parts) for me and recommended Silpruf
SCS2000 , made by GE, as a sealant/adhesive. I have had no leaks since the
replacement. Biggest job was to remove and fair the surface wh
Alan; The cable tension and wheel centring adjustments are done where the
cables attach to the quadrant. Generally there are long threaded sections on
the ends of the cables with adjusting nuts on them where they pass through the
quadrant.
Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.
On 2013-08-2
Yes, but in this case I think the skylight lens in question is bonded to
the flat surface of the deck. If it is like the skylight on a 37+ there is
no depression the lens fits into, no frame, the lexan panel just lays there
so the choice of adhesive / sealant is very important. As the boat flexes
>
>
> All, thank you for your responses, i will do a search, and any pictures would
> be most helpful. Our boat, now Kindred, was the old Ajax not Blue Pearl. We
> have the wing keel and teak decks. I understand Blue Pearl was in tough
> shape, ours just needed updated running rigging an
I just rebuilt Honey's entire Edson steering system. The entire parts kit
including next day FedEx costs USD 1,122.00. The new chain & cable kit with
the wires properly swaged and shrinkwrapped including all of the quadrant
clamps was USD 268.00. According to Edson's support tech the safe av
Francois,
When I replaced my muffler several years ago, I used a muffler with a 2"
outlet. I ran 2" hose all the way to the transom and then used an adapter
to attach it to the exit fitting. The boat sounds better now, but that
could be because of the fiberglass muffler instead of the origina
Hi Bill
I have a 3QM30 in my Landfall 38. If you have the original throttle and stop
cable setup on your engine, it sounds as though it needs adjustment or
lubrication.
The engine stop cable when it is pushed in all the way acts as the idle stop.
If either the stop cable is not returning fully
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