Wade- FWIW- I have yanmar 3HMF with 2.14 ratio transmission and
flexofold recommended a 2 blade 16x11. It's worked very well the last 10 yrs.
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I have a Flexofold 3 blades on my 33 mkII with the original engine: 2GM 20F. It
is very good, no vibrations with the 3 blades and very very efficient to stop
the boat with almost no propwalk. But, I'm pretty sure mine is too big for my
setup. I went with the recommandation from Flexofold. It is
In addition to Flex-o-Fold, I would look at Slipstream folders.
Dennis C.
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send
Folding Prop
I replaced the original folding prop with a Flex-o-fold and have been
very happy with it. Now 5+ years old it still looks new after scraping
off the summer crud. Excellent performance in forward and very good in
reverse. Definitely worth looking at.
Howard Paul, Knot Again 35-3
David,
I had exactly the same problem with the new genoa halyard I installed before my
trip to Bermuda last year. The outer layer of the halyard chafed through in
just a couple of weeks of offshore sailing. As you noted, the chafe was a few
inches above the furler swivel.
The culprit
check out this baby...I got the Bruntons H5 3 blade autoprop on my 35
MKII...it's great
https://www.ab-marine.com/feathering/auto-prop/
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 6:07 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
wrote:
>
>
ditto
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 3:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller
I am still very happy with my Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop after over 15 years. I
replaced a non-geared prop because I was sick of
Have a look here:
http://www.flexofold.com/upload_dir/docs/Test_YachtingMonthly_low.pdf
The test is available at the Flex-o-Fold web site for obvious reasons (they
came on top), but the test, as far as I know, was completely independent.
Marek
From: Wade Glew via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday,
I had a Max-Prop on my previous boat (35 Mk II) and I loved it. I have a
Flex-o-Fold on my 37+ and like it just as much at half the price.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 3:09 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
I am still very happy with my Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop after over 15 years. I
replaced a non-geared prop because I was sick of having to open the hatch and
set the shaft to a horizontal position when racing. I got better performance in
forward and much better in reverse.
They were great to
Consider J-prop and max-prop. I have a 3 blade max-prop and it works as
good in forward as it does in reverse. No complaints. The only real
disadvantage is that it is a feathering prop... So underwater obstructions
may not slide off like they can on a folder like a gori. Initial cost
seems
Mine didn't have grease cups. I installed zirc fittings. Much easier to
do when the rudder is out. I wish I had installed grease hoses and
remotely mounted the zircs in a more accessible location.
The squeak reported from the base of the pedestal is most likely the 2
sheaves crying out for
Will let Stu answer that one, i'm in Canada so i did an e-transfer from my bank
to his. Was easy for me.
Bruno Lachance
De : CnC-List de la part de Bill Dakin via
CnC-List
Envoyé : 6 novembre 2018 12:43
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : Bill Dakin
Objet : Re:
Mice?
Seriously, My 37+ didn't have any grease fittings on the rudder, but it
only took about 15 minutes to install a couple.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
~~~_/)~~
On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 1:47 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I too have a squeak issue.
I too have a squeak issue. It seems to be coming from under the
quadrant rather than the base of the pedistal. Rudder seemed tight
when I had her hauled in July...any ideas?
Also, are there any of those grease fittings on the 37+/40?
Tom B
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
Good advice, Chuck. I was going by what was told to me. I never bothered to
check the manual for the correct lubricant.
Alan
On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 9:32 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> With all due respect to Alan’s suggestion, please don’t use chain lube on
Hi Wade
Our Frers 33 is very similar to the C 33-2. Motor is normally a 2GM20 for
the Frers 33 but Persistence has 3GM30F with Kanzaki KM3P also 2.61:1
Two years ago we purchased a Flex-o-Fold 2 blade 16x12R geared propeller to
replace the Martec RH16DX14-3 2 blade folding non-geared
Bailey, just to add to what Josh said there should be 1 or 2 grease caps under
the cockpit floor to lube the rudder shaft. You turn the caps CW periodically
to force grease into the tube. I can't remember if I reached in there from the
foot of the quarter berth but I believe so. They are 3/4 or
May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing
a folding propeller?
I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM
Gear Ratio is 2, 62
current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10
On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended: " a 2-blade
Is PayPal the method of payment for these items?
Bill Dakin
> I just want to tell everyone on the list that i recieved my C burgee and a
> few decals from Stu and i am very
>
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___
Thanks everyone for supporting
With all due respect to Alan’s suggestion, please don’t use chain lube on the
chain and cables. Chain lube is designed as lubricant for chains travelling at
high speed on a motorcycle or bicycle and are specially designed to stick to
the chain and not get flung off when moving quickly. The
Hi all,
I just want to tell everyone on the list that i recieved my C burgee and a
few decals from Stu and i am very happy with the quality of the flag. I figured
that a good way to support the C photoalbum website and this list was: yes to
give a small cash donation to Stu, but also get
You can also verify the alignment of the cables on the turning sheaves
below the pedestal and the alignment of the cables as the engage with the
quadrant.
There are needle bearings on the shaft of the steering wheel. A SMALL
amount of lithium (IIRC) grease in the hole above each of the 2
I don’t know about the 36 emergency tiller configuration, but I had a squeaking
sound for a time on my 42. On my boat, the emergency tiller connects to the
top of the rudder post on the coaming behind the wheel. Just below the
connection point, the top of the rudder post has two small bronze
Use chain lubricant on the chain and on the cables. It comes in a spray can.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 7:32 AM, Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> All of this talk on rudder bearings prompted me to ask about a little
All of this talk on rudder bearings prompted me to ask about a little
squeaking I hear when I make fine movements on the helm sometimes. The
rudder feels tight. The cabling on the quadrant looks almost new. Is
lubrication needed somewhere?
Any advice appreciated.
Bailey White
1979 C 36
Some lines such as those with dyneema cores can be stripped. I've had no
problem adding a cover to the end of my halyards.
As for Flemish eyes, the best trick I have seen is to put a zip-tie on them
to pass through clutches.
Joel
On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 8:53 AM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
How about rejecting messages that don't have, or don't change, the subject line?
Don't worry -- punishment is being handed out and so far it is working. The odd one might get thru but you are being watched.
Stu
___
Thanks everyone for
Neil,
This is exactly, how I do it (with an exception that I don’t use bosun’s chair,
but a climbing harness). If you really want to experiment with optimisation,
make the foot loops very short, so that you don’t need to move the ascender by
hand, but it would move with the feet. You could
Rob,
I have wondered about "play" in the rudder myself and asked, "how much is
too much". I had the rudder out about 5 years ago for rebuild. There was
no scoring on the post and the only wear I could find in the bushings was a
bit of port/stbd ovaling. At the bottom tip of the rudder I get
How about rejecting messages that don't have, or don't change, the subject
line?
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
> and every one is greatly
Yeah, I looked at those needle bearings. To rich for my blood. Of course,
the Delrin bearings lasted for 28 years and are still functional. Just a
little worn longitudinally. When I felt the play in the rudder, I felt the
need to drop it and inspect for any other serious problems. In fact all
Presumably you only need to work on the bushings if the rudder post is flopping
around . . . .
If you have the ‘Velvet Touch’ on the helm, maybe your rudder post is a lot
happier . . . . . Ha . . . .
I’ve designed a couple of needle bearings in my time, so if I was rich, I’d be
trying to get
I believe that is called a flemish eye.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 8:22 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi Bruce
>
>
>
> I just had a halyard repaired due to chafe (just inside the mast approx. 4
>
Rob:
Is this a project that owners of all boats of a certain age should be doing
(my boat is now over 40 years old), or are there indicators when this issue
needs a closer look?
From: Rob Ball via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 8:32 AM
To: Gary Russell ; C List
Cc: Rob Ball ;
Recently, I have had to reject several messages every day. Why? We have a limit of 50K per email message which means if you try to add photos, don't trim your messages and maybe send a reply to a digest, your message might get rejected.
Remember too -- all (I mean ALL) of your messages get
Hi Joel- I considered a dyneema cover but thought it would make the line even
thicker and so more likely to be abused. But does anyone know if it is
possible to remove the cover from the last few feet and add a dyneema cover
there? Dave
> On Nov 5, 2018, at 4:21 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Gary,
When you get the new bearings(bushings) made – there are better materials out
there for the job.
I have seen graphite lined and different mixtures of materials that are tougher
and more slippery . . .
Cheers,
Rob Ball – C 34
From: Gary Russell
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 7:39 AM
Hi Bruce
I just had a halyard repaired due to chafe (just inside the mast approx. 4
inches before sheave). When I received it back from rigging shop was a very
small eye on the cockpit end. It went easily through the clutch when I re-ran
it
Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
From: CnC-List
Gentlemen,
I must admit that I always intend to take lots of pictures to record
my progress, then fail to do it because I am so focused on the goal that I
forget the record keeping. I will try to do better. I have set up a
Google Drive folder with a few picture to start here
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