>From what I know, the aluminium is for brackish water and magnesium is for
>fresh.
To answer the original question (Pete's), you cannot have a long lasting anode
and a good protection at the same time, as the whole point of protection is
that it won't last too long. Pick the compromise that is
You win the prize Edd. Got in there with a dental pick and fine screwdriver
near the tube exit and managed to free it and pull it out. Thanks for the
help. But that was only the first of the problems with the new lights. Will
post tomorrow when I calm down so not too inflamatory. Dave
> On
I’ve had all rope halyards on my boat for about 15 years and have never needed
to add extra cover to reduce chafe. I’d give it a try and see if you need to
do it before going to the trouble of adding the cover.
Just my two cents.
Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach,
NOW ya tell me!!
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From: Richard Bush
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2020 2:43:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davidrisc...@msn.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat projects again- wire running through rail tube
I'v
Oh boy, this will be a lengthy discussion!
I believe they recommend Aluminum for fresh water. I tried it once, and
ended up with all kinds of unexplained *stuff* all over my shaft. I went
back to zinc.
Bill Coleman
Erie PA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
Throughout my boating "career", I have also used ZINC for protecting prop and
shaft. I sail the Virginia portion of Chesapeake Bay where the further north
you go, the more brackish the water becomes.
In looking to order anodes through Defender, I noticed their comment about
ALUMINUM being longe
I always wonder why these things happen always in a gale…
Talking about the Baltic (this time not the boat, but the sea), on a different
boat (45 ft steel boat, built like a tank), when we were sailing in the middle
of the Gulf of Finland, the cable snapped during a gale (about 35 kt.). We used
I've seen installers put a know in the wire at a juncture so it wont pull
out;
Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original Message-
From: David Risch via CnC-List
My boat neighbors had an experience on a Catalina 42 that wasn't humorous at
the time, but looking back on it, we always chuckle.
They had decided to go on a cruise down the west side of Florida and over to
the Dry Tortugas, which are about 70 miles west of Key West. On the way back,
one of the
All,
I have not tried it yet on the current Enterprise, but on the Enterprise-A
(1978 C&C 34), we had the steering cable snap in the middle of the night on the
way to Montauk. Between the prop wash and the waves, it was very difficult to
steer, but we set up a line from the e-tiller to a block
I am the outdoorsy type...
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From: CnC-List on behalf of Edd Schillay via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2020 1:59:34 PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency til
Not easy for for sure. When not on autopilot drive, had to use my hips to
shove it around. And I am not a small guy...
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From: CnC-List on behalf of Della Barba, Joe
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 20, 20
Sailing to Halifax from Bermuda one April on a C&C designed Baltic 51 when
the steering cable snapped in the middle of the second of the three gales
we encountered. Steered with the very short emergency tiller the rest of
the way. We hooked lines to either side and led them to winches. We got
prett
… and all this time, I thought David’s throne was in that little room between
his main saloon and v-berth cabin….
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
I was sailing to Hawaii on a 1973 Ericsson 35. We snapped a rudder cable twice
in 24 hours, and had to use the e-tiller. Worked great, except for the compass
being mounted behind the rudder post. On that boat the binnacle is mounted
behind the rudder post. When the first cable snapped, on my wa
While we're on the subject, this article on steering with no rudder is very
interesting.
https://www.cruisingclub.org/article/guide-steering-without-rudder
Andy
Masquerade
Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
https://burtonsai
I am surprized to read that, on mine ( 1975 ) the tube is aluminum and the
fitting to connect to the rubber post looks like cast aluminum, held in place
by a 1/2 in bolt. I taped an open 1/2 in key to the tube so I can tighten it
appropriately in a short time.Tried it once, it fits well and mak
It is pretty stiff. If you actually wanted to sail the boat a lot that way, you
would want a tiller about a foot longer, a hinge, and have the wheel steering
disconnected.
For an emergency tiller setup it is the best I have ever seen.
Joe
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List On Beh
Joe,
I am remiss it actually trying mine, but how does behave when
back-driving the quadrant with the wires/chain/wheel? Is it difficult
to turn?
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 3/20/2020 1:11 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
Fortunately the 35 MK I tiller is actuall
Fortunately the 35 MK I tiller is actually usable to sail the boat and
if it were 1 foot longer and had a hinge it would be like the boat was
designed to be tiller steered. I used to use it to sail from under the
dodger.
Joe Coquina
___
Thanks eve
The cast aluminum tiller head fitting on my previous 27 foot boat broke.
Fortunately I was in the marina and not far from my slip. I clamped a
large pair of Vise Grips on what was left of the fitting to get into the
slip. It wasn't easy.
Dennis C.
___
I had to use the e tiller once on our 37+. The wheel had to be removed.
Conditions were 45+ knots of wind and significant waves during a line squall
coincidently between two major shoals. You will likely find the relatively
short tiller too short for significant leverage. Removal of the pedestal
That reminds me...on our 40-2 had to remove helm "throne" hump too.But of a
PIA in a sea state, but doable.
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From: CnC-List on behalf of Charlie Nelson via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2020 11:52:40
My emergency tiller could not reach the hole in the top of the rudder since the
stern step with the removable plate (to access the rudder post) was offset
enough that the tiller could not reach the rudder post--finding that out when
needed would be a REAL EMERGENCY!
I had the marina redo the ti
Similar experience on a 27-3. Short throw and remember steering is backwards to
the wheel.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 20, 2020, at 10:47 AM, David Risch via CnC-List
wrote:
I have actually used the e-tiller offshore. Need to remove wheel. Make sure
your hub is lubed! And it works at 45
I rewired my bow light. Had to remove pulpit leg to get wire through a small
deck hole hidden by tube.
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From: CnC-List on behalf of Edd Schillay via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2020 10:22:18 AM
To: E
I have actually used the e-tiller offshore. Need to remove wheel. Make sure
your hub is lubed! And it works at 45 degrees off. Lots of hip action to
steer. Auropilot ram really comes in handy here.
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From
Will
The emergency tiller on Persistence runs at an angle from the rudder post
(something between 30 and 45 degrees I think). The pedestal is NOT in the way
but the wheel is.
Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Will Gerstmyer via
CnC-List
Sent
Removing the pedestal is complicated beyond removing the four bolts. There are
the steering cables, the throttle and shifter cables and electric wires. My
boat came with an aluminum pipe emergency tiller that was just long enough to
catch the spokes of the wheel. I cut an inch off the end and
The emergency tiller on Persistence fits over the top of the rudder post.
However the arm extends pas the pedastel requiring removal of the wheel to be
used (or perhaps running between spokes?
The wheel comes off easily but I had not thought of running between wheel
spokes. If we ever get a b
David,
When I did some rewiring (on the 37+), there was some sealant inside the tube,
and it was keeping the wire from moving. I used a very fine screwdriver to
“pick" it free.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Cl
Will,
That doesn’t sound right. The emergency tiller should be able to be attached
and used in an, ahem, emergency. I would suggest trying to put it in place and
see if there is actually not enough room. If your pedestal isn’t original and
bigger than normal, then I would suggest cutling down t
Dave,
Can you run an electrician's fish tape, coat hanger or the like down the
tube? Dennis' suggestion is also a good one.
Joel
On Fri, Mar 20, 2020 at 10:10 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I had another problem the other day that I can’t figure out. I am
> re
It may be sealant at the deck. Does the vertical tube go into a deck
fitting? If so, remove any set screws and try to lift the tube. You may
have to do the same to an adjacent tube. Once you lift the tube you may
see your issue.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Fri, Mar 20, 2020 a
I had another problem the other day that I can’t figure out. I am replacing
the bow and stern lights with LED. The wire from the old stern light runs into
the stainless steel vertical tube of the rear rail and down into the port
lazarette. I have been unable to budge the wire by pulling on it
Hi,
I am impressed with the birth of the emergency tiller. However, it would appear
that I’d have to remove the wheel pedestal to have room for it to work.
If so, does anybody have any experience doing that?? I’m also thinking
1986–this sucker is likely to be very challenging to unbolt!
Thanks,
My 32 came from Racine, Wisconsinthe boat documentation number in on
the bulkhead in the port lazarrete .it is clearly visible for anyone
looking in it.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.
On 3/19/2020 4:16 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
David,
According to the Coast Gu
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