Hello all. I recently purchased an otherwise complete Drake B-line but
for some reason the VFO-knob is exchanged to a non-standard one.
I managed to get a new knob from eBay/US, but just the plastic part.
So the kHz-dial is missing... Searching a skirt or complete knob, even
a not-so-good will
On Feb 25, 2011, at 9:44 AM, John Hudson wrote:
then the unit is power washed with clean distilled water
^
So the dishwasher is not a bad idea provided you don't use the soap,
and not sure how simple green would work in a
Tom,
Thanks for the info...
about a month ago I did the upgrade. I carefully followed all his
directions, studying the photos too...mine went together fine and is
working FB.
Wish I would have had your notes firstas it was a little confusing
in places.
Mostly just not good writing, not
Paul -
Ripple on Calibrator signal probably power supply ripple, D6, C190, C192.
S-Meter drift is gassy tube (grid emission) probably V4 or V5, possibly V1.
Phones jack 'used' to be on the front panel, but interfered with the
controls on either side. Note small circle where phones jack USED
Boys and girls...
Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor.
The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by drake
changed over production runs.
Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray wire
with a white tracer.
Hi Drake Users
I have sure enjoyed all the help from you guys over the years.
I have my R-4A T-4X going now and have a nice Drake TR-3 RV-3 AC-4 for
sale.
If interested please contact me via E-mail.
Jim Theisen WB8REH
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Mike,
I clearly did NOT over-react to YOUR messages, as you did to mine. I merely
attempted to discern where things went, as the descriptions were not clear
(at least, to me.. and apparently to others as well). I sent you an
off-reflector Email, referencing my offer. If you don't want the
Exactly. This is why it used to be that to get your license you really
needed to know some theory. I had to DRAW a Harley or a Colpitts oscillator,
not multiple guess. 12 years old doing Heathkit stuff with my Dad, there
was 250VDC running around, not 6 volts for some transistor. I learned why
Gary,
Many tnx for the feedback!
Paul, W9AC
- Original Message -
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Paul -
Ripple on Calibrator signal probably power supply
I for one appreciated the availability of the AC-4R. It provided a way to
rebuild my AC-4 with confidence that the result would provide reliable power
for my Drake T-4X and T-4XB. I photographed the AC-4 wiring with my digital
camera from several angles and read the AC-4R instructtions
I've had my 2C for over 10 years and it has always worked well. A couple of
days ago it developed a raspy sound to the audio on all bands. Using the
same antenna my Ten Tec Corsair II sounds fine. Any suggestions as to what
might be the culprit?
John Boyle,
I bought the AC-4R kit from Mike several montha ago and found the kit very easy
to assemble. I think he has the right to assume that one can read a schematic
and has had some experience in working with electronics. I made it a opoint to
carefully trace all of the leads and compare my wiring
Mike,
I too found your instructions to be adequate for me, an old retired school
administrator, to rebuild one AC4 very easily. I plan to incorporate the same
kit in all my AC4's as I can afford it. I found it to be a high quality board,
good components, and with adequate pre-planning
I've built two AC-4R's with Mike's kits and they worked fine right away.
I got stuck a couple of times, but with a quick check of the schematic
and an application of a bit of common sense I got through it.
It really wasn't that difficult to figure out. He provides a great
product and I haven't
Mike;
In today's society you never blame fault on yourself or your own ignorance!
You have to blame it on others. Installing your AC-4R and the one for the
Drake amps is a no brainer if you can read a schematic. You don't even need
written instructions if you can read a schematic and
and the voltages were as advertized. Mike has done a great job
that has benefitted many Drake owners.
John, VE3PMA
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I agree with the gentleman that said building and installing
the AR4 upgrade kit is basically a no brainer.
Mike has done an excellent job designing the kit, the board
layout is simple and the board is marked where all the parts
are placed on the board. This reminds me of the old
Heathkit
Paul Christensen wrote:
Now I've done it. After a complete cleaning of the R-4B front panel
and associated hardware I cannot get the crystal select switch shaft
to engage onto the switch shaft. A brass coupler is used to join the
two pieces but I failed to look closely at the relationship
Gary Mark, K4SO.
Got it. Turned the set upside down and the flat retention spring came out
of God knows where. Whew...don't want to re-live that again.
Tnx for the help.
Paul , W9AC
- Original Message -
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: drakelist
- Original Message -
From: John Hudson john.hud...@calema.ca.gov
To: Morrell Siegel mandbsie...@charter.net; DRAKE LIST
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2011 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] restoring
I've sent this out before but looks like it could help
again.
Him Paul:
There is a small dark metal spring pc that goes inside the brass
coupler. It is approx 1/2 or 5/8 long x 1/8 wide made from spring
steel. It has a slight arc bent into it. It rides on the two flats of
the shafts and is held in place by compressing against the inside of the
I had the same experience as Curt.
worked FB,
Thanks Mike.
Lee
Lee Simmonds
Summit DCS LLC
260-799-4077 Office
260-403-6936 Cell
-Original Message-
From: Curt rhule...@comcast.net
To: mike bryce proso...@sssnet.com
Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, Feb 25, 2011
Thank you. Looking at the T-4XB in question, I found that modification
was already done before I acquired it, so now I know how to use it.
73 de W3NU
On 2/24/2011 11:21 PM, Ron wrote:
Charles,
Only the first part of an answer. The standard Drake factory mod to
bypass/shutdown the finals
Charles -
The output from the Drake transmitters is only about 0 dBm, or about
0.25V RMS on 14 MHz ONLY. The Globe King 500 probably requires more
like 5-10 V RMS input on 3.5 or 7.0 MHz.
Also, there are two RCA jacks added to the rear panel that will have a
jumper cable between them for
Hello All-
I have for sale a very nice Drake R-4C receiver. It is in excellent
condition and is in one of the replacement boxes, with styrofoam pillars, that
is the same size as original box. These boxes were common when units were sent
in for repair. Here is the rundown on the R-4C:
With regard to Garey's suggestion to acquire a VFO, I have some
hands-on experience with the various VFO types with my Globe Scout
transmitter that goes back to my early General license days in the
50's. The Globe Scout used a 6V6 oscillator, the same as the Globe
King 500A uses, and the only
Tony -
Good point! I used a Globe V10 with my Globe King 500A, and it had a
buffer output stage too. Never really tried a 'lesser' one. Best idea
is to probably replace that 6V6 with a 6AG7 like Leo did!!
Hey, yesterday was Leo's 100th birthday!!
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake
Fellow Drake enthusiasts,
I have one set of ten (10), new, 330 mfd 450 volt snap-in capacitors that can
be used to replace the existing power supply capacitors in the L4/L4B/L7 power
supplies per the article on the WB4HFN website. You only need 8 for the supply
and the extra two can be
I bought both kits, one for the AC4 and HP-23. Sure, there were a couple of
things that I saw as ambiguous, but after careful inspection of the power
supply, and it's schematic, I saw that it was my problem, not the
instructions.
No matter what, I traced everything anyway, making sure all
John,
I don't know about the 2C in particular. This is general advice for tube type
equipment. The severe audio distortion that bothers you ear might come from a
grid going positive (with respect to the cathode) which causes that tube to
operate outside it's linear region ( and introduce
Real VFOs have 807s in them!
- Reply message -
From: Richard A. (Tony) Stalls rasta...@verizon.net
To: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com
Cc: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter
Date: Fri, Feb 25, 2011 5:04 pm
With regard to Garey's suggestion to acquire
Food for thought:
When car guys are approached with a fairly well-worn, but very serviceable
automobile, they don't go in with Q-tips: they rip it apart and restore it.
Sometimes they go too far (I just sold an estate HQ-180 to a gentleman who
POLISHED the entire chassis and it looks STUNNING
I thought the kit was of excellent quality and would have bought it with
*NO* instructions. Just having it available was a blessing because without
it we'd all be truly on our own (read: Some of us would be totally screwed).
73/Paul, K4MSG
___
- Original Message -
From: ph...@aol.com
To: n5...@swbell.net; jmbo...@ripnet.com;
drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I thought the kit was of excellent quality and would have
bought it with
*NO* instructions. Just
Fellow Drake enthusiasts,
The capacitors I listed for sale have been spoken for. Thanks for all of the
inquiries.
Talk with you on the Drake nets and see you at Hamvention.
73,
Evan, K9SQG
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