Trying out RTTY for the first time here on my k3.
Reading the setup for both I am getting bamboozled, no big surprise there I
know.
Getting the k3 to "talk" to the software is proving a tad difficult. (read, I'm
slow?)
Is there a link for step by step setup for a k3, and also, am I correct in my
I'm glad my XYL is happy with the Little Tarheel antenna on the
4Runner. My high point with it was driving over I40 from Barstow
and contacting 5Q4B in Denmark on 15M SSB. It was a good day and
he was working stations all over North and South America. DX at
100 KPH. (She was driving.)
73
"Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org [KX3]"
wrote:
> I got the whip for 17m. I figure there is not much difference between a coil
> at the base of the whip and a coil inside the ATU. Neither one will radiate.
> So get a whip for the highest band you want to use
I got the whip for 17m. I figure there is not much difference between a coil at
the base of the whip and a coil inside the ATU. Neither one will radiate. So
get a whip for the highest band you want to use and let the ATU provide loading
for lower bands.
wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
Wayne,
Funny you should bring this up, I just received an MFJ-1899T today. Slapped
a counterpoise on it and at 6 watts running JT9 (in New Jersey) was able to
be heard (watching PSK Reporter) all the way in CA and Alberta. Just
worked a station in MN.
I'm not even giving the whip a fair
Yes, you are in real GAS trouble now! Just like
many of us here :-)
73, Phil W7OX
On 3/23/16 7:18 PM, TFJM via Elecraft wrote:
Funny you should say that. I have only had my KX3 a week and I'm already
looking at and reading about the K3S. I better get a hold of myself - at least
until I get
Hi Tim,
I've added your suggestions to the wish-list.
Thanks,
Wayne
N6KR
On Mar 23, 2016, at 6:54 PM, Tim Henrion wrote:
> Hi Wayne,
> Is there an ‘official’ channel for firmware feature requests? I’d really love
> to see an easy way to adjust NR mix without having
Funny you should say that. I have only had my KX3 a week and I'm already
looking at and reading about the K3S. I better get a hold of myself - at least
until I get back from Dayton in May.
73=Tom
W1PDI
-Original Message-
From: lstavenhagen [via Elecraft]
Hi all,
I've been using an MFJ-1820T telescoping 20-meter whip for a few months.
Considering its length (48"), results have been excellent. I typically use it
with the KX3 on a picnic table at 15 W (with an external battery), or hand-held
at 3 to 5 W (internal battery).
During the ARRL DX
Hi Wayne,
Is there an ‘official’ channel for firmware feature requests? I’d really love
to see an easy way to adjust NR mix without having to disable/reenable it or to
go through the menus. It would be nice to be able to tweak it while tuning
around the bands. The other thing I’d like to do is
Tom,
Glad you like the rig. If you have a question that stumps the experts, drop me
an email. I have a unique perspective as the guy who wrote the firmware and
owner's manual :)
73,
Wayne
On Mar 23, 2016, at 12:02 PM, TFJM via Elecraft
wrote:
> I'd like to thank
An obscure Novice in SoCal did that ... he had no wallet. PVC pipe
hadn't been invented, he used a mailing tube, same tube he made a
telescope out of with a shaving mirror. He actually had to study some
of the simpler math associated with acoustic resonance which was of some
assistance
OK, Don - no problem with that :-)So the effect is most striking and easiest
to do on the old A level board, but it is doable and has a positive effect
even on the B level (i.e. the present) K2 board as Bill W4ZV testified to in
his response in this thread also.
Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
> Sverre.I beg
Sverre.
I beg to differ slightly. The B level boards already have the 82mH
inductor across the same R-PAK that the TF3MA mod wants to install the
large capacitor. In addition, the 47k resistor is already in place, but
the path must be broken to install his 47mH inductor.
While it is
Back in the 50's and 60's there were many articles in the mags of hams
mounting a headphone in one end of a tube. The length of the tube was cut to
provide resonance at the desired audio frequency. Such filters actually
provided pretty sharp responses for CW operation for Hams with slender
wallets
Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
> Yes, those two mods are old, and apply only to the A level boards (below
> SN 3000).
> There have been improvements in the K2 sidetone incorporated into the B
> level boards, and are also included with the A to B mod kit.
> The changes added a 47k resistor in series with
I would try a piece of heavy-duty mylar packing tape stuck to one board.
Optionally a thin piece of plastic, such as we must deal with encasing so
many things we buy these days or even a thin sheet of cardboard, held in
place with a bit of double-sided tape should be more than enough.
73, Ron
The TF3MA sidetone mod is still current as it is in fact a modification of
the B level board, not just the A level board, as the site states that this
is an improvement of exactly the 47k / 82 mH A to B improvement mentioned in
the quote below. See
Yes, and Elecraft's tend to multiply once you get your first one. I started
off with my first K2, which I built and still have. And now there have
appeared a K3 a K3S and now my second K2 which I'm currently building... Be
sure and do let that happen to you too!
73,
LS
W5QD
--
View this
Yes, my first RX when I was a child in the 70's was a Realistic from Radio
Shack. I can't remember the model but it was as wide as the Red Sea,
especially with the built-in speaker. At one point I got a set of comm
headphones with a hefty peak in 400hz or so range and it really worked well
as a
Well I think Rick's idea of cork is the way to go, though maybe it wont be as
glamorous as fish paper! hi hi. And it'll stay put sandwiched between the
boards too, I imagine...
Onwards to the RF board portion starting tonight. This part I remember well
on my first K2, the parts inventory alone
Ah yes, cork is a much better idea thanks a million!
73,
LS
W5QD
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-encoder-kit-4-pin-connector-tp7615471p7615487.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Resin would be difficult to remove should the need arise.
How about a thin piece of cork, often used in crafts?
Rick nhc
On 3/23/2016 11:57 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:
Actually, I just checked mine after finishing the flush cutting and the
boards are going to touch when they're screwed together.
I'd like to thank everyone who took the time to respond to my posting about
just buying my new KX3 (first radio purchased since 1980) and answering some
of my questions I had and providing suggestions and feedback. Much
appreciated.
I have to say this KX3 is amazing and I'm very happy that I made
Fish paper! Any day's a good day when a solution involves fish paper.
Eric
KE6US
On 3/23/2016 11:57 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:
Actually, I just checked mine after finishing the flush cutting and the
boards are going to touch when they're screwed together.
In the archives it was suggested to use
Actually, I just checked mine after finishing the flush cutting and the
boards are going to touch when they're screwed together.
In the archives it was suggested to use electrical tape, but I'm thinking a
more durable solution might be a thin layer of resin on the daughterboard as
a more
Thanks all for your helpfull sugestions!!
Problem solved: I moved the IC-2820 to a separate power supply. I can operate
the k3 and k3/kpa500 on any band and the interference is gone.
78, KX6F
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Home:
Hi there!
I am trying to contact Doug Shields, W4DAS. Doug, are you out there?
73, Byron N6NUL
by...@n6nul.org
--
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org
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Home:
Won't argue with the experts.
However, I really wonder why one would not want a "brick wall" type
earphone/speaker which greatly rejected anything outside the audio range
of interest. There is the issue of dynamics (e.g. 100 wpm CW) which
probably needs some higher frequency response.
In
Hi Don,
Ok thanks for the info. Whew, that's good because I managed to ruin it
anyway having made a mistake with it that I'm too ashamed to admit to on the
reflector hi hi.
And thanks for the warning about flush-cutting the daughter board. In fact,
I did find some discussion of this in the
Hi,
For those that are using the P3 offset macro available at:
http://nk7z.net/adding-an-external-keypad-to-the-k3/
or
http://nk7z.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/CP48-Master-Spreadsheet.xls
if you download the spread sheet directly, I have made a small
modification to reduce the size of the
Regarding headphones/speakers, the way I learnt it many years ago was that
hi-fidelity transducers were generally a no-no in communications, primarily
because frequency response and other distortions (if done correctly) aided
in hearing desired signals.
Of course, back then our receivers weren't
LS,
Yes, that 4 pin connector is extra - use it for whatever purpose you want.
There is a situation with the new encoder in that its board can contact
the back of the control board. That is not completely clear in the manual.
The area of the Control Board that could possibly contact the
FWIW,
I once heard a friend transmitting with a rig that was in swr foldback
condition due to his antenna. Each syllable started at full power and
clamped down. (My terminology) It was a strange sound. I had never
given it much thought but expected there might be some delay built in
somehow
I don't dispute what Barry says below, except that IMO it is a question
of *both* re-profiling the AGC settings within the K3/K3S *and then*
doing whatever else is necessary to present that enhanced range of audio
levels to one's ears.
Neither of those actions can deliver its full benefit without
It's not a question of whether "your ears can handle the increased range of
audio levels."
I've been in the trenches battling against pileup mush since the K3's
release. This is only one guy's opinion, but there's another important
prerequisite that's been missing from this discussion. And
Hi all,
Just finished the front panel on my 2nd K2 last night and in the process of
building the encoder daughter board, I noticed there was an unused 4pin
connecter supplied in the kit. Long story short, I ended up ruining the
connector, but I don't see that it's actually used for anything.
I
Don wrote:
>Gene (and all),
>
>Yes, the AGC settings do help a lot. The K3/K3S has enough gain that
>often the AGC is activated on the atmospheric noise in the band.
It isn't so much that the K3/K3S has "gain", but that the factory
default AGC THReshold is so very, very low. Measurements by
It is in great shape and fully
functional to original specs and has
been well maintained over the years with
all known official mods and updates
applicable to this serial number.
Additionally, it has the new and
improved synthesizer board(KSYN3A) and
Interface module (KXV3B) installed (Same
It is in great shape and fully functional to original specs
and has been well maintained over the years with all known
official mods and updates applicable to this serial number.
Additionally, it has the new and improved synthesizer
board(KSYN3A) and Interface module (KXV3B) installed (Same
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