W2AGN wrote:
The term Ham Radio has been used at least for 75 years, possibly
more. Most of us old-timers are proud to be Hams. But then, we took
real exams and even, back in the olden days, had to pass a Morse Code
test. (After walking barefoot in the snow 5 miles to the FCC examiner,
of
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Mark [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
There is never ever any moment during a contest, with the exception of
the first/last half hour on high band openings/closing, where the rx
signals drop below S9.
If not, you're antenna situation really sucks big-time. Go visit a
contest
From: David Ferrington [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For what its worth, I'm switching EVERY 12v cable/device I have to use APPs,
including completely replacing the molex style connector on my FT-857, which
has proven to be less than reliable after only 3 yrs.
My local club (Minnesota QRP club) has
For relative newbies to CW such as myself, narrow filters
are a necessity. It's all that I can handle to copy code
at 18-20 WPM without the distraction of 2 or 3 other signals
in the passband banging away at my brain. I have noticed
that the real experts in my club often leave the filters
wide
I was enthusiastically poring through the K3 information last night when
my husband came into the room. I showed him the rig and was clearly
looking a little starry-eyed. He looked at me and said, What do you
need another radio for? Your current ones work fine!
Just thought I'd share --
As I'm sure you know, you can tell when the vertical antenna is
performing better; the SWR goes up. A lossy vertical will have a low
SWR because the high ground losses are in series with the radiation
resistance and the sum comes out perversely close to 50 Ohms. A low
loss vertical is around
Thank you for the advice so far. Unfortunately, the problem is deeper
than just filter adjustment. I tried tweaking the filters back and
forth quite a bit on 30M without getting any stir out of the external
wattmeter.
I am now on page 6 of the K1 manual. Under Transmitter Signal
I've nearly completed my K1, and the receiver has been calibrated and
works extremely well. While calibrating the receiver against my K2, I
had a 3 foot antenna consisting of daisy-chained alligator clips
attached to the antenna jack, and I was picking up not only the adjacent
K2, but also
Bob N5BZ wrote:
Subject: [Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2
These are things I would do in the future, that I did NOT do this time:
4) I would use a small piece of perf board and mount it in a handy vice.
and use it to 'guage' the lead length to 'pre cut' the leads
While experimenting with 15 meters today, I noticed that when
transmitting a CQ at 10 watts, HI CUR would appear intermittently on the
display. I have never seen this on the lower bands (20 meters and down)
where I do 99% of my operating. Turning the power down to 8 watts on 15
meters
I am unclear on the correct orientation of C13 and C20. The directions
state this [flattened] side must be oriented towards the flattened side
of the component outline. Unfortunately, the component outlines on my
RF board are symmetrical as far as I can see, with no sign of
flattening.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The K2 has a series
diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - that diode
drops about .2 volts.
What that means is: to obtain 13.8 volts at the battery terminals, one must
connect a supply of 14.0 volts to the K2 to maintain full charge on the
Tom, that's a great idea,and it never occurred to me. However, it will
probably be years before I need to change the voltage again, so at this
point I doubt I'll bother. Thanks for the tip, though!
Cathy
Tom Hammond wrote:
Cathy:
For future possible adjustments... REMOVE the pot and
One thing I never want to see on any ham radio equipment: No
user-serviceable parts inside.
Cathy, N5WVR
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 11/3/06 8:45:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
What was Astron thinking burying the pot where it can't be safely and
Don Wilhelm wrote:
There are two major problems with the Uniden 2600. First is the power
output level is in excess of the maximum drive that the transverter can
handle. That problem was solved with a 10 dB attenuator that was switched
out of the circuit on receive (using a relay).
I had
I'm not sure what you mean by 'tie up the K2 as the IF.' It only ties
up the K2 to the extent that you can't be operating on the HF bands at
the same moment.
Exactly -- I can't monitor 2M while making an HF contact or vice versa.
Yeah, yeah, I'm hard to please. :-)
Cathy
N5WVR
Folks,
I am interested in building the XV144 transverter. However, I do
not want to tie up the K2 as the IF. Instead, I have a Uniden HR-2600
(unmodified) lying around that I'd like to use for the IF/tuner/etc.
Has anyone out there used the 2600 or 2510 as the IF for the XV144?
I recall seeing a reference somewhere to a mod for the K1 tuning pot
circuit. The mod causes the pot to change frequency about 13 kHz per
turn at the low end of the band (thus giving easy tuning in the portion
where most ops will spend most of their time, and 22 kHz per turn at the
high end
I am seeing some odd behavior on my K2, and it may be just in my
imagination.
On 40, with its normal higher background level of QRN, I can easily get
strong signals and strong noise levels. With the AF and RF gains turned
up, I have comfortable armchair reception. If the S/N ratio is bad
I missed the earlier question. Count me as another leftie (write
left-handed, bat right-handed, use paddle right-handed). I had no real
problems winding the toroids. One toroid in the middle of the set was
wound backward, discovered on inspection after winding but before
installation, and
W1SRB wrote:
I recently added a CW tuning indicator to my K2..,
Tell me more about this! I'd love to have one of these. I have real trouble zero-beating CW sigs using the standard K2 method, especially when the sig is weak.
Cathy
___
Elecraft
I'd like to thank everyone who assisted in getting the K2 filters tuned
up correctly. The rig is working very well and has made many CW
contacts as well as a couple of PSK contacts.
I'm thinking about building a K1 this winter with the intention of using
it primarily for camping. Right
With my Alinco DX-70TH, I have become used to using the waterfall
spectrum display to zero-beat CW signals. Just spin the tuning knob
until the signal is sitting on the beat frequency, and you're tuned. I
also like to use my ears to get a rough find on PSK and other digital
signals. Both
The something else is tinning toroid leads. This is still the number one
problem. The wire needs to be tinned all the way up to the core so when the
wire is pulled tight you are not pulling the insulation down into the pad.
There are many ways to strip and tin the wires. Just make sure you do a
I have been playing around with the K2 since finishing it. No
successful QSOs yet, but I blame the bands, my limited operator skills,
and limited operating time rather than the rig.
However, while testing, I noticed that my MFJ-941E claims that the K2 is
putting out about 10 W on 40 meters
Greetings,
I have just finished building and installing the KSB2 in K2 #5191. The
rig works fine on CW and SSB receive, but I am struggling to get the BFO
tuned right for SSB xmit.
My crystals were marked 3.7. I've set LSB to 4913.6 and USB to
4916.4. When I set the rig to xmit on 20
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Cathy,
Yes there is a simpler way to do that! That way is called Spectrogram - an
audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows computer (there are others
that will work on other OS's, but doesn't everyone run Windows G).
Actually I am reading this on Linux. But the
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