> K1 VFO PROBLEM: I’m building a K1, and have reached the mid-point on
> populating the RF board, at the Alignment and Test, Part I (page 36). All
> looks well until I get to VFO Range Test on p. 38, and I get E42 (VFO not
> functioning). The previous resistance and voltage checks were all fine.
David,
Yes, it does seem to be a problem between C8 and the MCU input on the
Front Panel.
If you are getting good oscillation at the VFO (Q9 buffer) then check
continuity from C8 to the base of Front Panel Q1 - that should give you
a good check on the path continuity. Also check resistance to
It helps to know **exactly** where in the manual the problem is detected.
It appears that you are building a two-band filter board, which is also
important information.
I assume that you are using K1 manual Rev. I, that **all** the testing on
page 46 (especially the late step on that page) was com
Martin and Micah,
The information Gary gave you is exactly correct.
I would add three additional comments:
1) The oscilloscope should have a 10X probe for reliable readings
(otherwise use an RF Probe)
2) If you have a 4 band board, start with the trimmer slots parallel
with the long edge of the
My son and I have been building a 20m & 15m K1 over the past year. Great kit!
It is assembled and we are trying to finish aligning the radio. however, it
will not transmit. We have tried signal tracing it and cannot get a reading on
any of the test points. Receiver works fine. We did extensive m
With the voltage on D3 changing, but no change in VFO frequency it looked
like a bad D3 (1SV149). I installed a replacement and now the frequency
changes as it should. I used all the recommended static protection when I
originally installed it. I guess it was a bad one.
Don, thanks for your hel
John,
While you are waiting for the 1SV149 to arrive, solder a 1N400x diode (X
= 1 thru 7) in its place and see if you can achieve any variation in the
frequency. Make certain the cathode is oriented to connect to the RP2
pin 2 and C2 junction.
It may not give you correct range, but it shoul
John,
If the other 1SV149 varactors are not behaving correctly, it will show
up in your IF filter passband.
Download Spectrogram from my website www.w3fpr.com (or use Spectrum Lab
or ohters) and feed the K1 audio output to your soundcard.
I understand that you may not know what to expect, so se
Don,
thanks so much for your advice. The board traces in that area all check out
good. I'll email a request to elecraft for a new D3.
If it really is bad, it makes me wonder about the 1SV149 diodes in the crystal
filter circuit. I don't know how I would tell if those are functioning
correctl
John,
Yes, that would strongly indicate that D3 is faulty. It is good that
you confirmed RIT does change the frequency.
I don't think you will find one locally, but an email to
pa...@elecraft.com should bring you one quickly in the mail.
Since a bad D3 is a rarity, you might also want to che
Mike,
I used the diode test on my fluke 117. It shows the diode is good; 0.633 v.
hmmm….
73,
John W8DE
On Feb 24, 2013, at 3:42 PM, "Mike WA8BXN [via Elecraft]"
wrote:
>
>
> John,
>
> A couple of things you might try. First, use your ohm meter to check D3. It
> should show lower R in
roper diode, any of
these will also change the C as voltage across them changes. So you should
see some change in frequency.
73 - Mike WA8BXN
---Original Message---
From: John Reed, W8DE
Date: 2/24/2013 3:27:25 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO freq
Don,
C2 and D3 look to be properly installed. I confirmed orientation from a 1SV149
data sheet just in case I mis-read the instructions.
I can adjust receive frequency with RIT, so it looks like the D4 control is
working.
Since the D3 voltage is varying from 0v to 5.888v with the tuning pot, b
John
Is D3 oriented correctly? Is it well soldered?
Is C2 well soldered?
Those two components are about the only ones that would prevent the
frequency from changing.
A faulty D3 is a possibility, although that would be rare.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/23/2013 9:43 PM, W8DE wrote:
I'm at the VFO rang
I had installed the 68 pF C2. Based on your questioning about C2 I swapped it
out for the 120pF C2. Still no change in displayed VFO frequency when I turn
the tuning pot.
I have checked the installation of the components in that circuit. They appear
to be installed correctly.
thanks for th
A missing or not properly soldered C2 would do it.
73 - Mike WA8BXN
---Original Message---
From: W8DE
Date: 2/23/2013 9:43:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 VFO frequency does not change
I'm at the VFO range test in building of my K1.
I'm at the VFO range test in building of my K1. I go into the CAL menu,
display OSC and see a freq of 3.121 MHz. The frequency does not change when
I turn the VFO tuning pot.
I checked the voltage on the VFO POT signal and it goes between 0v and
5.935v. The voltage on D3 goes between 0v and 5.8
George wrote:
> Used the K1 in the ARRL DX INTERNATIONAL and had a INCREDIBLE time
> 304 Qs , 141 multipliers , for a claimed score of 128,592. 50 countries
> on 40 meters , 46 countries on 20 meters and 45 countries on 15 meters.
That's an impressive report. Regardless of the bells and whi
Used the K1 in the ARRL DX INTERNATIONAL and had a INCREDIBLE time 304 Qs
, 141 multipliers , for a claimed score of 128,592. 50 countries on 40 meters ,
46 countries on 20 meters and 45 countries on 15 meters. My only wish would
have been a filter like 100hz instead of 200hz as the narrowe
Denny,
But I was thinking that you would not want to physically remove the
tuner - putting it into CAL will effectively remove it.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/4/2013 7:01 PM, Dennis Rayfield wrote:
Thanks Don. My thought was that when I have it going into the amp, the KAT1
does not do me much good
Thanks Don. My thought was that when I have it going into the amp, the KAT1
does not do me much good anyway, the tuner I have on the outboard side of the
amp will be doing the work.
Denny - KI3F
On Feb 4, 2013, at 6:57 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Denny,
>
> Yes, it is really that simple. I a
Denny,
Yes, it is really that simple. I am not sure about your "plug it in"
statement, if you use a connector at J1 on the filter board, you will
not be able to plug in the KAT1 - so you may want to look for another
place to pick up the 6R signal and 6 volts.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/4/2013 6:41
I'm thinking of hooking up a small amp to my K1for those times when I need a
bit more power. I've researched the archives and found some messages from 2008
and 2011 that indicate small 2 transistor circuit similar to that for the K2
could be used, driving it with the 6R line. In reviewing the
Paul,
Use flush cutters and trim them as close as you can. Yes, that 1mm
matters. If you do not trim them, the LCD will contact the metalwork on
the front panel assembly and may break when you put things all together.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/19/2013 5:35 PM, Paul Roche wrote:
I am getting read
I am getting ready to install my backlight on my unbuilt K1. Step #1 is
³flush-trim all component leads which are located BETWEEN the two rows of
LCD PC board pads...²
Does this mean to flush-trim the pins of the U1 HOLDER? These pins are only
1 mm above the board. Am I really supposed to try to c
Check to be sure that you have set the correct 30-meter band edge (10.0
or 10.1, depending on your chosen VFO range). See the manual's
instructions for setting the Bx parameters.
Some years ago I had a problem similar to your first one. It turned
out to be a defective pair of relay contacts on m
I have a K1 with the 4 band filter board (40,30,20,15). I recently removed this
board and tested a two filter board (80,17) that had come with this radio. The
second board worked fine but the problem I have is that when I replaced the
original filter board and reconfigured the band settings, som
Scott,
Sorry I misread your question. Yes the side protruding is kind-of
square which makes it a flat side. The remainder of the body is round.
You apparently have them mounted correctly.
73,
Don w3FPR
On 12/24/2012 12:31 PM, Scott Krebs wrote:
Don,
These are definitely not the blue-bodi
Don,
These are definitely not the blue-bodied trim caps. I'm familiar with those as
they are used in the KFL1-4, which I've already assembled. No confusion at all
as to how to orient the blue-bodied, angular-nosed trim caps.
The C13/20 trim caps I've now installed on my RF board appear to have
Scott,
I figure you have the blue bodied trimmers and not the older ceramic ones.
Look at them carefully - one end is rounded (that will be the wider end
with rounded corners) while the 'shorter' end has angular corners and a
flat between those corners. That is the 'flat' side and should be
> My K1 RF board ceramic trimmer capacitors C13 and C20 have an outline
> shape that differs from either that described in the K1 assembly
> instructions or on the silkscreen outline on the RF board PCB. This is
> the same question that Dean asked back on 10/27/12. Don's answer
> described trimme
My K1 RF board ceramic trimmer capacitors C13 and C20 have an outline shape
that differs from either that described in the K1 assembly instructions or on
the silkscreen outline on the RF board PCB. This is the same question that Dean
asked back on 10/27/12. Don's answer described trimmer capacit
I've reached the point in assembling my K1 where I install the backlight kit
and have a few questions:
1. I assume that the black neoprene LCD spacer that comes with the K1 is not
used when the backlight kit is installed? In other words, the only items under
the LCD will be the insulator card a
I am reducing the price asked for my K1 from $515.00 plus shipping to $500.00,
including shipping.
The particulars:
Serial # 589
Six bands - (160 and 80 in a two band module); (40,30 20 and 15 in a four band
module)
KNB1 Noise Blanker
Finger Dimple
K1LCD Backlight mod
K6XX CW indicator when z
Hi Joe,
Is the K1 still available?
Tnx, Lou
--
Lou - W6UR
On The Air Since 1949
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The shafts on those controls can become worn where the shaft exits the
body of the control, and that will allow an excessive amount of 'wobble'
in the shaft and knob. The solution is to replace the controls. The
VFO pot was improved a year or so ago, so if you have to older one with
the blue
I have been using my K1 mobile for about a year and a half now, and am
noticing
that the 3 main controls - volume, RIT/XIT, and the main tuning control are now
fairly loose and wiggle about a bit when I am operating them. They don't seem
to
be moving together like the circuit board that they
Posting for a friend, and yes, I do know the radio.. very nice. Photos
available.
Have a K1 for sale - I'm moving to a Ten Tec rig. Pric is $515.00 plus shipping.
Particulars:Serial # 589
Six bands - (160 and 80 in a two band module); (40,30 20 and 15 in a four band
module)
KNB1 Noise Blanker
I am selling my K1 four-band (15,20,30,40) transceiver S/N 1486.
Very good condition with the following options:
* KAT1 Antenna tuner
* KBT1 Internal battery option
* Built-in Filter option
* KNB1 Noise Blanker option
* KTS1 Tilt stand
* FDIMP Finger dimple for tuning knob
* Manual
I
Have a K1 for sale as I'm moving to another Ten Tec rig. Pric is $515.00 plus
shipping.
Particulars:
Serial # 589
Six band - 160,80,40,30 20 and 15
KNB1 Noise Blanker
Finger Dimple
K1LCD Backlight mod
K6XX CW indicator when zero beat
All documentation
Just had it aligned, varification of secs
Apologies if this appears as a duplicate on the list, my first posting
didn't appear for some odd reason.
I've just added a Cumbria Designs X-Lock 3, "Huff Puff" VFO stabilizer
to my K1. The performance is amazing, no drift and no issues with
using RIT (or XIT).
Cumbria Designs are at: http://www
I've just added a Cumbria Designs X-Lock 3, "Huff Puff" VFO stabilizer
to my K1. The performance is amazing, no drift and no issues with
using RIT (or XIT).
Cumbria Designs are at: http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk
The installation details are on my web site at:
http://www.astromag.co.uk/pdfs/X-Loc
Thousands of people will agree with you, Dean, and congratulations in
putting your K1 on the air. Yes, Elecraft produce some fine kits - I
have built the K1, KX1 and K2 and assembled the K3 also. I intend to
buy a KX3 when the exchange rate allows.
Be sure to register the serial number of your n
Dean wrote:
> Don't know exactly how many hours I have spent building the little
> radio, but they flew by quickly! Everything went together just as
> directed and checked out exactly as the manual said they should.
Your K1 is 3003 units after my number 175, received in November 2000 after
a six-
Sorry about the first post a moment ago, I forgot the forum only uses
plain text..
Hello all.
Don't know exactly how many hours I have spent building the little
radio, but they flew by quickly! Everything went together just as
directed and checked out exactly as the manual said they should. Th
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Selling my K1 -4 band unit.
40 / 30 / 20 / 17
With the following modules installed and working:
K1BKTL Backlight
KAT1 Antenna Tuner
KNB1 Noise Blanker
KTS1 Tilt Stand
FDIMP Finger Dimple
All manuals included. Unit was purchased Dec 2008 and assembled in Jan 2009.
Minimal in shack only use. Looks
Have a K1 with no power output and looking for a repair person. Car accident
left me disabled and very shaky about 3 years ago. Wish I could fix it myself
but no go.
Hello Curt,
Your filters are probably off center. Install Fldigi and plug in the K1 headset
plug into your computer mic plug. Then I think it's C21 that you use to center
the filter, if I remember well. I also think you have to redo the C13 alignment
after that. I'm just writing this from memor
Hi,
I built a K1 this summer that I have been getting great reports on from other
ops I've had QSOs with. However I wonder if I have everything aligned
correctly. What I notice, particularly when I have the filters active, is that
the receive signal strength is strongest when I've tuned below
George,
You wil have to trace the problem to the failing stage. Loo in the
manual appendix for Transmit Signal Tracing and progress through those
steps to reveal the failing stage. Once the failing stage has been
identified, analysis to the component level should be possible, the K
schemtic
George,
Do not be so quick to pass judgement, there are several options in the
power output path.
Remove the KAT1 - and do not forget to change the RF source jumper to
the K1 position.
After doing that, what is the power output on each band? If it is 5
watts or greater (usually 6 to 7 watts),
Had a great time but ran into trouble at the very end ... Nothing on the
display of bars for power and when I try to auto tune it reads PO 1 then P lo
. Blew a final (had 146 Qs 57 sections in 9 hours of play)
Thanks !!!
George , N2JNZ
___
Hi Don,
Oh OK! That makes sensethe screw is at ground potential and
therefore less affected by a screwdriver adjustment. I looked at the
schematic and got it all fiqured out. Thanks so much for taking the
time to help out a fellow builder.
See you on the air soon!
Dean
K6DDJ
Dean,
Dean,
OK, if there is any confusion, use your ohmmeter.
Measure the board to determine the lead of the component that is
connected to ground - that is the ground side, and then with one
ohmmeter lead on the adjustment screw, see which lead is connected to
that adjustment screw. Connect the adj
Hi Don,
Thanks for answering. The type of capacitor you are describing is
like the ones that I mounted on the four band module. Those do have a
round body with a flat SIDE to it. These capacitors are completely
round but have a little square extension on one end. For lack of a
better descr
Dean,
Look carefully, one side has rounded corners while the other side has
angular corners (even though it is smaller). The flat side is the one
with the angular corners.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/27/2012 6:41 PM, d...@jonemail.com wrote:
> Hi all,
> I am installing trimmer caps C13 and C20 on the
Hi all,
I am installing trimmer caps C13 and C20 on the RF board and having
trouble identifing which way they need to be installed. They are
physically different than the discription in the manual. There is NO
flattened side to them. They look like a round body that has a square
tab extending on on
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Check this out:
http://www.hamuniverse.com/randomwireantennalengths.html
Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
On Oct 22, 2012, at 6:45 PM, John wrote:
> I tried 50 feet with 25 foot counterpoise, 20 and 30 feet with 15 foot
> counterpoise.
__
When I connected a random wire antenna and counterpoise to my K1 using a Male
BNC to dual binding posts the ATU would not bring the SWR down. It showed r9.9.
I tried different lengths of wire without results. The ATU works fine with
coax and a vertical. Any suggestions will be appreciated. T
Anyone have a K1 for sale? I'm looking for one with 40 and 15M.
Thanks
73
Steve
---
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
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Thanks to all who responded to my post about a bag for my K1. They were very
helpful. 73, John
Sent from my iPad
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Post
On 10/17/2012 2:04 PM, John wrote:
> I need a shoulder bag that will hold a K1, a 12 volt, 7amp gel cell, a key
> and a Par 10-20-40 antenna. I would prefer one with a separate compartment
> for the K1. Any suggestions? 73, John
>
> Sent from my iPad
> __
I need a shoulder bag that will hold a K1, a 12 volt, 7amp gel cell, a key and
a Par 10-20-40 antenna. I would prefer one with a separate compartment for the
K1. Any suggestions? 73, John
Sent from my iPad
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Hom
I want to increase the output power from my K1 station. I have an
ex-laptop 15V/4A supply to hand so a 3:1 turns ratio collector
transformer looks like it will offer a useful 20W RF output.
As a first step in this exercise I am trying to understand the design of
the K1's own single ended PA transf
For Sale – K1-4 with the following options. I started 1 Circuit Board,
everything else is
new and unused.
K1-4 4 Band Transceiver, KBT1 Internal Battery, KTS1 Tilt Stand, K1BKLT
Backlight, KNB1
Noise Blanker. I paid
539.70. Your cost 270.00 shipped. Thank You!
David casualobse
Fred,
That hits right at home base. Yes, these women have lots of names for
those "in between" colors, and paint manufacturers amplify that by a
factor of 10.
My wife tells me that I only had 8 crayons in my box when I was a kid,
but that is sufficient for reading resistor values.
I have com
On 9/23/2012 7:17 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> If your color
> acuity is not sufficient to clearly determine the difference between the
> red bands and the orange, ask a female for assistance.
Ummm ... not always helpful. I have no color vision, I've showed
resistors to my wife who tells me, "Well
Gil,
You adjust the RX BFO trimmer C20. Check that RFC1 is actually 33 uHy,
it is frequently exchanged with RFC2 while is 22 uHy. If your color
acuity is not sufficient to clearly determine the difference between the
red bands and the orange, ask a female for assistance.
I would suggest that
Hello,
Please have a look:
http://radiopreppers.com/images/K1_FL3.png
This is my K1 on FL3. Looks similar on FL2, better on FL1.
How do I bring it to center on 600Hz?
Thanks,
Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
__
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For those interested in this problem, it turned out to be one of the cap's in
the LO.
C5, C11 and C12. I changed all three and now the LO is working correctly.
Turns out it
was oscillating, just on the wrong frequency, 7.8Mhz, which I did not see until
I lifted
R5 and Q9 to unload the LO.
Paul,
Yes, do borrow from the RF board parts list. The parts are the same,
and the *real* part number is E580006 - E580010 does not appear in the
"official" list of part numbers that I have. Request a replacement
2N4124 PN E580006 from pa...@elecraft.com.
Sorry for the confusion, and I am sur
I'm building a K1 and missing a transistor for the Front Panel Board. It's
Q1 2N4124. There are two 2N4124 transistors on the RF Board, Q3 and Q14,
which I am not missing. The normal order of building the K1 is to build the
Front Panel Board followed by the RF Board. The Front panel board is needed
I am selling my K1 four-band (15,20,30,40) transceiver S/N 1486.
Very good condition with the following options:
* KAT1 Antenna tuner
* KBT1 Internal battery option
* Built-in Filter option
* KNB1 Noise Blanker option
* KTS1 Tilt stand
* FDIMP Finger dimple for tuning knob
* Man
I am selling my K1-2 two-band (20 and 40) transceiver S/N 00813. Beautiful
condition/no smoke with the following options:
* KAT1 Antenna tuner
* KBT1 Internal battery option
* K1KBLTLIT Backlit disolay option
* KTS1 Tilt stand
* FDIMP Finger dimple for tuning knob
* Manual and all documen
Stan asked:
> Could you give a little more info on your "foam tape" suggestion.
> I have noticed some vibrations with my K1 when a loud station is heard.
>
> Where exactly do you put the tape?
> How thick of a tape did you use?
The corners of the K1 front panel (FP) PCB do not rest firmly against
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Tom,
I think the solution to proper filtering, finding, and so forth is for all
Elecraft customers to buy all Elecraft equipment. Therefore, no matter what
rig is being discussed, it is of potential interest.
Therefore, I think that Eric and Wayne should encourage people to buy all their
equi
Phil's filtering suggestion warrants a repeat of an earlier suggestion
that the subject line of e-mails contain the type of rig the e-mail
relates to (in his example "K1" should appear in the subject line) to
facilitate filtering. As hard as it is to believe, not all of us have
K3's...hi.
To
Greg,
The list is not divided into different products. But, if you want to only look
at K1 then you need to add filters in your e-mail that filter by keywords such
as "K1". You could by using such a scheme grab every e-mail that mentions K1
even if the email is not really about a K1 specifica
There is no separate K1 list, you will have to set up the filters in
your email client to only save those emails containing K1.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/31/2012 6:16 AM, greg fripp wrote:
> i successfully entered the elecraft lists
> i only want k1 items as someone is building one for me
> at the mome
i successfully entered the elecraft lists
i only want k1 items as someone is building one for me
at the moment, i get all elecraft mails
all the ones for k2 and k3
i only want the k1 ones. not k2 or k3
how can i narrow the list down?
a puzzled greg
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View this message in context:
http://elecr
Got the right transistor put it and all is working well.
Thanks for all the help!
You guys are great.
73
Stan AE7UT
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http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K1-building-problem-VFO-not-working-tp7561287p7561642.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at N
Stan,
Your homemade RF probe should suffice for doing Transmit Signal Tracing
as indcicated in the back (appendix E) of the manual. Find the stage
where the RF voltages is substantially less than the expected value and
you have found the source of your failure.
Once we know that failure point
It would be extremely helpful to aid those with troubleshooting suggestions
for a problem experienced by a K1/K2/KX1 owner if, at the time a help request
is made, the following is reported in addition to the problem description:
1. Identify any component issue exactly by component designation and
Don wrote:
> Check your transistor numbers. K1 Q1 is a 2N7000 FET and not a 2N4124.
> The ZVN4424 goes in the T-R switch at location Q4.
Stan was referring to Q1 on the front panel board, which is the frequency
counter amplifier, 2N4124. This could cause the problem as described,
so I would h
Check your transistor numbers. K1 Q1 is a 2N7000 FET and not a 2N4124.
The ZVN4424 goes in the T-R switch at location Q4.
The VFO transistor (well OK an FET) is a J309 at Q8.
Possible solutions for a "no VFO" problem are diode D17 installed
backwards, and also D3 and D4 varactors. Check the
Gordon look closely at Q1 on the Front Panel Board.
The transistor supplied in my kit was the wrong one... but very close.
They have the same casing and the numbers are very close.
The one I got was ZVN 4424. It should be the 2N 4124.
I thought it was just a "replacement" for the 4124. It's not
I also have a K1 that I'm building, with the same error code - no LO. I'm
interested in
any of the possible solutions!
Thanks!
Gordon - N1MGO
On 20 Aug 2012 at 13:34, Stan AE7UT wrote:
> For those of you following this thread with bated breath.
>
> I did check the resistors and the transist
For those of you following this thread with bated breath.
I did check the resistors and the transistor in the VFO.
They were right well at least the transistor was the one supplied with
the kit.
Apparantly the Q1-2N4124 was switched with a ZVN4424 in the parts supplied.
The right one is on th
Oh one more thing.
The stand off post for the face place was missing in the kit.
It should arrive in Monday's mail.
I just put it together WITHOUT this in place being careful not to
bend any pins because it's not 100% stable without it.
Would that effect the VFO?
Thanks
Stan AE7UT
--
View thi
Everything has checked out good so far.
When I went to the CAL - EDIT the display reads "OPF" and then back to
"E42".
I'm assuming the VFO is not functioning.
I checked all the soldering and don't see any bridges or other problems.
Where do I go from here?
Thanks for any help you can be.
Stan A
I wrote:
> I'm sure that you must have a simple problem on 17m, like maybe poor
> solder connections to any of the six 17m band toroids (L2, L3, L7, L8,
> L11, L12).
Correction. Only L11 and L12 are toroids. The other four are slug-tuned
inductors.
Mike / KK5F
_
Gil asked:
> ...what do you guys think of the usefulness of the noise blanker?
For years, I thought the KNB1 was only marginally useful, because only
rarely did I find a noise source for which it was effective. But in
the past four years I've encountered in several locations, including
my home t
Congratulations Bob, I just built one too, great radio!
Mike & all, what do you guys think of the usefulness of the noise blanker?
By the way, I just converted my 2-band board to 80/17, but the 17 side does not
work, darn!
I must have messed-up somewhere because the board worked before on 40/20.
Congratulations on the K1 build, Bob. The K1 I bought a few years ago was my
first Elecraft acquisition and my first kit since a Heathkit power supply many
years ago. I've had a blast using it in portable field operations. I predict
you'll build the 4 band board next. Even though I've moved up t
Bob/KD2UJ wrote"
> ...my K1 is complete and working on 40 and 20 meters.
It's a great radio. I built K1 s/n 175 12 years ago and it remains my
favorite QRP rig.
I hope you installed the LCD back light option. That is so useful that
no K1 should be sold without it. It can be a real pain to ba
Hi,
With superior dexterity, perseverance, dumb luck, and a lot of help from Don
W3FPR my K1 is complete and working on 40 and 20 meters. This is my first
kit rig, my first QRP rig, and my first CW only rig.
When I set out to buy a QRP rig, I looked at everything I could find on the
Web. W
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