Mark,
Look at the silkscreen on the board. The orientation tab on the P5
header is clearly marked. The tab mounts closest to S1. The pins are
away from S1.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/1/2018 11:14 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
The K2 RF board assembly instructions say to install P5 *with the vertical
The K2 RF board assembly instructions say to install P5 *with the vertical
locking ramp toward S1*. I don't know how to interpret this. Does this
mean when P5 is installed, the pins are closer to S1 than the locking ramp
is? Or the other way around?
Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT
--
Mark
I’m progressing on my K2 S/N 7770 and have just starting working on the RF
Board.
I see in the Parts List that D10 should be Part Number 95SQ015. However, it
appears that instead I have a diode part number of SR1503438Y. It appears to
be the right physical size.
Is this an equivalent part for
Rick,
It is OK, both points are grounded.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/12/2017 5:15 PM, Rick A. wrote:
Hi all, I am just trying to make sure I don't have a problem on K2 rf
board. L1 slug inductor can ground and one leg of capacitor C4 have a
solder bridge and I can't tell if the pads were together or s
Hi all, I am just trying to make sure I don't have a problem on K2 rf
board. L1 slug inductor can ground and one leg of capacitor C4 have a
solder bridge and I can't tell if the pads were together or supposed to
be kept separate. I'm thinking it is OK that they are bridged with solder.
Rick,
Look at that capacitor carefully under good light and magnification.
See if that "330" isn't really "33G". If so, it is the 47pF that you seek.
If it is marked "470J" then it is for certain the 47pF.
Sort your capacitors. You should have 4 33pF and 4 47pF. Once you have
them all sor
C73 should be 47pF, not 47uF, in which case, the marking "470" would mean the
capacitor in (in pF) 47 followed by no zeros.
In the manual, it shows that for that group of capacitors, it could be a disc
ceramic type OR a monolithic. Most likely it will be monolithic, either yellow
or possibly blu
Hi all, I am working on assembling my K2 and for component C73, 47uf,
all I have in my kit is a yellow colored cap that has 470 on one side &
330 on the other side. My manual shows a disc type. Some other pics I
have seen show a blue colored cap. I have no means of testing capacitance.
Rick
KC9
Wylie,
That is a voltage rail that you are checking, and you should measure
somewhere close to 250 or 300 ohms. I assume you do not have the
Control Board plugged in yet - if you do remove it and remeasure.
Actually the resistance check at U11 pin 8 is not a very good check of
the 8A voltage
Wiley,
The resistance between U6 pin 8 and ground was 295 ohms in my K2 built in
2003, before the RF board was assembled with the front panel and Control
board.
Hope that this helps.
73,
Geoff
LX2AO
On July 14, 2012 at 10:25 PM, Wiley Kling wrote:
>I am building a recently purchased K2, se
I am building a recently purchased K2, serial # 7313. In the past few years
I have built 6 or 8 solid state kits, including a K1, without a hitch.
However, I am now having a problem that is really making me feel like a
"newbie".
I am on page 62 of the manual and things have gone swimmingly u
David,
If the voltage is over 0.6 volts, and is applied to the base of a
transistor (assuming the emitter is grounded), the transistor will
conduct. So my answer it less than 0.6 volts. OTOH, if the voltage is
less than 0.3 volts, you will not be able to make diode forward
conduction tests
avid Christ [mailto:radio...@mchsi.com]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 2:15 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Resistance Checks
What is the maximum safe voltage? It must be less than 1.5 v as that
is what the Simpson and Triplett VOMs use in th
What is the maximum safe voltage? It must be less than 1.5 v as that
is what the Simpson and Triplett VOMs use in their lower ranges, but
how much less?
David K0LUM
At 3:47 PM -0800 2/20/11, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
>
>I trust you are using a DMM and not a VOM (like the old Simpsons, etc. -
>
n...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Al Gold
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 2:38 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Resistance Checks
Hi All,
I have a partially built K2 circa serial number 5000 and have completed
Assembly Stage II of the RF Board. All of the resistanc
Al,
The first thing to try is reversing your meter leads. Often ohmmeters
use a higher voltage which can make some solid state devices conduct.
Is the Control Board plugged into the RF Board? If so, remove it and
remeasure.
Is U8 oriented correctly? How about Q18 and Q19?
Check the values
Hi All,
I have a partially built K2 circa serial number 5000 and have completed
Assembly Stage II of the RF Board. All of the resistance numbers are fine
with the exception of U6 Pin 8 which reads 42.5 ohms and should be greater
than 100 ohms. I have checked everything on the board visually for
Pippo,
Try reversing the leads of the HP3478a and re-measure. Diode D12 is
connected, and the polarity of the HP when measuring resistance may be
such that the diode conducts.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/19/2011 5:36 AM, Giuseppe Sorrentino wrote:
> Hy to all, just finished the resistance check of R
Hy to all, just finished the resistance check of RF Board (K2 #6995) as on page
62 of the manual. I've dne the check with two gears, an HP3478a and an Extech
470 (handheld dmm). I have different values as indicated down here:
HP
R115 160 ohms (ref.is >500ohms)
U6 PIN 8 290ohms (ref is >100 ohms
Pippo,
That is in the 40 meter low pass filter, so most any 56 pF capacitor
will work fine if it fits physically.
I would likely use an NP0 or C0G type if I had one available.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/14/2011 6:38 AM, Giuseppe Sorrentino wrote:
> Hy to all, trying and re trying i finally succedeed
Hy to all, trying and re trying i finally succedeed in brake a component. It's
the little cap 228 on rf board marked as 560. The damage is well visible on
image on link above. I must replace it and want to know if i have to find a
prticular type of cap as a replacement.
Many tnx
http://tinypic
I also found pins 29 and 30 (dot/dash) on U6 on the Control Board to have
higher than spec resistance, 96.7k and 96.5k respectively. They should be
70-90k.
Weird.
Steve, KC8QVO
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-RF-Board-resistance-checks-not-in-spec-tp
Steve,
Those resistance readings are too low, and you will have to find the cause.
What I believe is happening is that the low resistance on the paddle
connections is triggering the circuits to go into a transmit state - and
if that happens, the buttons do not work nor will the encoder change
f
Here are my out-of-spec measurements. Any ideas?
R1 = 96.4k
R2 = 96.5k
Both should be >1M. Everthing else in the list checks out (well above the
lower spec limit).
At this point the rig powers up and gives me the 201 message, switches to
ELECrAFt, then 7100.00c but the buttons and knobs don't w
Conway,
There is space to solder them. Solder at about the height of the top of
the RPaks, and clip the leads off just above that point so the KSB2
option will fit. Hole the soldering iron tip so that is lots of contact
with the crystal case to maximize the heat transfer.
The solder does not
Don,
The issue is that the ground leads on the left side of the case is between
a resistor pack and the crystal case. There isn't the room to solder the
ground lead after soldering the crystal in place.
Should I solder the ground leads onto the case BEFORE I solder the crystal
onto the PC board?
Conway,
Use a hot soldering iron - 800 deg F - to heat the crystal cases
quickly. Use a flat bladed screwdriver to form the ground leads up
against the crystal case. Then apply the soldering iron (out a bit of
solder on the iron tip to aid heat transfer). Hold the solder on the
crystal can
What is the best way to solder X7-X11 crystals? The instructions say to
solder two ground leads on the side. The ground leads on the left are
between the crystal and the resistor packs.
I think I should solder the ground leads onto the crystals before
soldering the leads onto the crystal case (a
Thanks Don, this did the trick!
Unfortunately I can't test it again on the dipole... mother nature decided
to dump an inch of ice on us which weighted down the antenna and took down
the mast holding up one end of it. booo... I'm still a little bit
concerned about the strange noises I was hear
djmd wrote:
>
> Well, now I'm even more confused. I installed those toroids. I checked the
> pads for connectivity, and they are ok. The signal seems to be present on
Both ends of the filter are grounded when the filter is not selected,
and the power off relay positions are not defined (probably
The first thing you should do when you get back to it Thursday is to put
the bottom cover on (using all 6 screws) if it is not already mounted,
and then run CAL PLL. That should set your tuning straight. Right now
it would appear that you have random data in the EEPROM, and a CAL PLL
run will
Yeah, that was more or less it. I remembered that when I did the KX1 I used a
much bigger tip on the iron, so I switched to that and it worked just like I
remembered. So now I am definitely hearing the outside world loud and clear.
However, this has brought to attention a couple new problems.
Fir
If you are having trouble stripping the toroid leads, that is cause to
suspect that they are the problem. If you are using the 'solder blob'
method, remember to increase the heat on the iron - at least 800 deg F
or even 850. Wait until the enamel starts to smoke a bit before moving
the lead t
I was just going to tell you to check the lead tinning on L25 and L26
when I saw your note here.
Great that you found that omission.
73,
Don W3FPR
djmd wrote:
> Haha!
>
> I skipped over L25 and L26. I'll get those on there and get back to ya'll :)
>
> Seriously though, I learned more about the c
Well, now I'm even more confused. I installed those toroids. I checked the
pads for connectivity, and they are ok. The signal seems to be present on
the "top" pad of L25 and L26, but still nothing on C226 or C227. I guess I
should remove them, re-wind them and re-strip/tin? Like I said, I checked
Haha!
I skipped over L25 and L26. I'll get those on there and get back to ya'll :)
Seriously though, I learned more about the circuit this morning than I have
in the whole process of the build, so I'm glad this happened.
Wow...
--
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K2---RF
Alrighty! Bear with me, this is new territory. I followed the signal through
the radio per the Cheap and Dirty tracing... cool stuff. I thought I had a
problem at C5, as the signal was a bit louder on the other end of C5 (vs.
the junction to C4) but I kept going. C228 seems to be where the buck st
Hello,
See page 59 of the manual for installation instructions for C6. Ensure that
it is indeed soldered into the outer of the two pins
i.e. [here][ ][and here]
(if the [][][] were to represent the three pins)
Merlin
djmd wrote:
>
> Hello Elecraft(ers)!
>
> I just wrapped up
At this point of construction, the 40 meter receiver should be as good
as it gets - the following assembly only adds the other bands and the
transmit section.
You do have a problem somewhere that should be investigated.
The easiest first step is to try the "Quick and Dirty Signal Tracing"
tech
Hello Elecraft(ers)!
I just wrapped up part II of the RF board assembly, test, and alignment.
I was elated to discover that all the VCO values were in range and that
I could hear my KX1 screaming in the headphones attached to the K2. But
I have a question - I brought the K2 upstairs and attache
Hello.
I've checked all components on the 8B rail and can find no problems there.
All solid state devices are installed correctly.
I cleaned off flux and found no hidden solder splashes.
The resistance at pin 8 of U6 still reads about 50 ohms instead of the >100
expected in the manual.
I'm stuck
yes.
73, Eric WA6HHQ
_..._
Jon Perelstein wrote:
According to the manual, it should be an NPO with markings of 2R7, 3,
3.3, or 3R3. The picture shows one of those round NPO caps. I can't
find it.
I do have a very very small, pillow-shaped NPO marked 2.7C. It's
blue, not dark green.
According to the manual, it should be an NPO with markings of 2R7, 3, 3.3, or
3R3. The picture shows one of those round NPO caps. I can't find it.
I do have a very very small, pillow-shaped NPO marked 2.7C. It's blue, not
dark green. It does not have a black mark on top. The markings do n
Jon,
Actually, those are all miniature chokes. Use any one of them at RFC15,
but if you have one that is different looking, I would suggest using
that one at RFC15.
I bend one lead back along the body of the choke, and I solder the
unbent lead to pin 16. That keeps the exposed lead furthe
Jon Perelstein wrote:
I think that I received a full-sized 100 microH RF choke instead of a miniature.
I have four green-bodied brown-black-brown RF chokes and a tan-bodied brown-black-brown RF choke -- all the same physical size. Actually, I'm can't tell for sure if the tan-bodied is a brown-
I think that I received a full-sized 100 microH RF choke instead of a miniature.
I have four green-bodied brown-black-brown RF chokes and a tan-bodied
brown-black-brown RF choke -- all the same physical size. Actually, I'm can't
tell for sure if the tan-bodied is a brown-black-brown or an
ora
Jack,
Believe the DMM and refrain from using the analog ohmmeter because it
apparently uses a high enough voltage for resistance measurements that
it can turn on solid state devices and may even damage them.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jack wrote:
Hi folks
Just building my K2. Got as far as the first re
ginal Message -
From: "Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Jack" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF board test
Jack,
If you do not get a reply which solves your problem please let me kno
Hi folks
Just building my K2. Got as far as the first resistance checks on the RF
board (page 38)
All values test correct but one.
The right end of R115 is meant to be >500 ohms to earth.
With an analogue meter it gives 2 ohms.
With a DMM on auto range it flashes between ranges wildly. But on
turning the
AGC on and off and adjusting for no change in the background noise.
Don Brown
KD5NDB
- Original Message -
From: "JT Croteau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Part 1 - Setting AGC Threshold
> I am currently building K2 6233.
>
&
I am currently building K2 6233.
Setting AGC Threshold - Manual states to turn R1 until pin 5 on U2
reads 3.8V. However, I can't get the voltage this high. When I turn
R1, the voltage range is from 3.75V to 2.638V.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
--
JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH
_
before you
have found the cause.
73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
- Original Message -
From: "Dennis Vavra" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 2:53 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 rf board D18
Hey there Elecraft! I just noticed that D18 on the back of rf bd got fried.
Hi Dennis,
Sorry to hear about your D18 being fried and/or melted.
1N4148 is an industry standard part number so any other 1N4148 should
work fine for you as a replacement regardless of your source.
They are a very common part, but be prepared to pay nearly an arm and a
leg for this cheap p
Hey there Elecraft! I just noticed that D18 on the back of rf bd got fried.
The diode looks melted in the middle,
and is probably not useable. Now here is my question, and I feel silly even to
ask, but, can I just go to
Radio Shack and pick up another 1N4148 diode, or is the diode provided by
E
Jeff,
Those questions are what this reflector is for - have no sorrow about
asking.
You may eventually have to lower the BFO frequency, it all depends on other
factors such as your SSB filter width and your choice of center frequency
for the RTTY filters (if you choose to use those). For now, ju
Jim,
If you can't determine visually which pin of the trimmer
is connected to the adjustment slot, measure with an
ohm-meter and install the trimmer so that this pin goes
to the "gound" hole in the PC board.
Either orientation will work, but if you install the trimmer
"backwards" you'll always h
Next hurdle (my apologies for all the questions) - I just finished the "BFO
Test" and found that my BFO low frequency was a touch high (only about .5kHz).
I am assuming this is because I don't have a frequency counter and was unable
to do the internal frequency counter calibration. Would you all
Jeff,
Do you have the Control Board plugged in when you did those measurements?
If not, plug it in and remeasure. If your control board was in place, do a
resistance measurement from RF Board U10 pin 8 to the collector of Q1 on the
control board - if you measure more than 820 ohms, look for the u
Hey Guys,
Ok, I'm at phase 2 of the K2's RF board resistance checks.
Everything looks good, except U10, pin 8. For this check, the manual says ">500
ohms", but for me, it's like 10Mohms. The rest of the checks (in this phase of
tests) where pretty close (like if it said >500 ohms, it would be
Jim,
I was not aware that they were shipping those capacitors with the K2, but
apparently they are.
Rather than giving you a direct answer (because I can't remember which end
is which at the moment), do a bit of measurement with your ohmmeter.
Measure the resistance from the adjustment slotted pa
I'm not sure which way to orient the 30pf trimmers on the RF board.
The silkscreen has a flat but the parts I have are flat at either end.
They're blue and one flat end is larger than the other.
Should I align the "nose" (smaller flat end) with the silkscreen flat?
73
jim ab3cv
k2 #5874
Look for a long (10+ inches?) square plastic tube -- inside you will
find the relays.
Mark AD5SS
On 1/13/07, Dennis Vavra <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On page 35, left column, step 4, it requires install of k1-k17. I cannot locate
these parts in the inventory Appendis A. I do not know what the
On page 35, left column, step 4, it requires install of k1-k17. I cannot locate
these parts in the inventory Appendis A. I do not know what they look like.
Please advise. Dennis Vavra AD5LY
___
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Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You
Scott (N5SM) wrote ...
Can someone with a K2 tell me the kind and value of capacitor
C75 on the RF board.
Hi Scott,
RF-C75 is, a 470 pF NPO cap, designation "471".
73,
Gary
KI4GGX
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You m
Scott,
The information to sort out which is which can be found in the K160RX
manual.
73,
Don W3FPR
> -Original Message-
>
> Can someone with a K2 tell me the kind and value of capacitor
> C75 on the RF board.
> All it says about it in my manual is that it is supplied with the
> K160RX pa
Hi
Can someone with a K2 tell me the kind and value of capacitor
C75 on the RF board.
All it says about it in my manual is that it is supplied with the
K160RX package, but there are three capicators in that package
they are of two different values.
Thanks
Scott N5SM
__
John,
The VCO frequency of 8903 kHz is not correct for the 40 meter band.
I would be willing to wager that you have installed the 'Rework Eliminators'
which includes the changes to the RF Board for the K60XV.
The K2 manual clearly states that one should NOT install the K60XV
components until the
John,
This is the normal behavior is the proper VCO values are not entered into
the EEPROM.
If you have not yet run the CAL PLL procedure, that is explaination enough.
If you have run CAL PLL, put the bottom cover on and re-do it.
If you then still have trouble, we can help with detailed trouble
I've completed the tests and alignment in Part II of the RF board. All
resistances and voltages are within given ranges. Everything seems to work
except that when I tune through a signal (CW or BC) in CW mode on 40 meters,
the pitch of the received signal doesn't change. The signal pops up when
Frank,
I just check the resistor strip from K2 SN 5428 which I am building for
another ham.
There are normally 95 resistors on the strip. The first two resistors are
220 ohms, and there are 9 resistors from the strip that are to be used in
the Part I assembly.
Of the 86 resistors that should rem
The K2 assembly of the Control Board and Front Panel Board went perfectly.
But my luck has apparently run out after starting the RF Board Assembly Part
1.
I finished installing the latching relays but I am unable to find the
resistors
required for Part 1. The resistor tape starts with
Hi David,
The blue resin dipped caps actually -are- the NP0 type. :-) Caps can
appear in a variety of forms and colors and they do not directly
correlate to the type. (Also, the 68 pF cap you think is missing may be
marked either as "680" (68 times ten to the zero = 68pf) or as just
"68", d
Hi Dave,
Some manufacturers do supply NPO and COG capacitors that are blue
resin-dipped. I have seen other colours but blue seems to be the favourite.
The small blue capacitors that Elecraft supplied for my K2 #3255 RF board
are NPO types, which would be required in the tuned circuits of the K
David Lankshear wrote ...
Guess I must have done something wrong because I got no reply, so can anyone
who's "been there, done that" kindly advise, please?
Hi Dave,
I don't have an answer for your NPO question, but I can tell you a little
bit about Elecraft parts support ...
1) Elecraft will gl
Hi all, hope someone can offer some advice on this.
I'm building K2 #5551 and was concerned that most of the RF board capacitors
listed as NPO appeared to be ordinary blue resin-dipped ones.
I mailed Elecraft tech support a few days ago to enquire if the caps
supplied were NPO (zero tempera
TP3 in an inverted
position.
73,
Don W3FPR
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
> Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2006 10:54 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board TP3
&
Mark brought up an interesting point off-line that I'll repeat here for the
lurkers who may be following the thread. He reports that the DSP module gets
in the way of TP3. I don't have DSP installed in my K2 so that didn't occur
to me. He was looking for easier access to TP3 without removing the DS
Mark G3XYS asked:
Is there any reason why I cannot mount TP3 (PLL Reference Oscillator
Test Point) on the underside of the RF board instead of on top. This
will give easier access for frequency checking after K2 completion. A
suitable hole drilled in the bottom cover and plugged with a bung (l
Hi All,
Is there any reason why I cannot mount TP3 (PLL Reference Oscillator
Test Point) on the underside of the RF board instead of on top. This
will give easier access for frequency checking after K2 completion. A
suitable hole drilled in the bottom cover and plugged with a bung (like
one
Thanks for the confirmation.
I'm always amazed when I get to the last capacitor and find that it is
the right one.
Christine does a great job packing all those little bags!
On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 21:23:56 -0500, kc5wa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>nope! that's it.same here on K2 #4948.
>
>Ma
If it is marked 2.7 (no matter what its color may be), I would think you
have properly identified the capacitor to be used in the C22 position.
Have fun building, solder well, follow the instructions carefully, and you
will reap your rewards.
73,
Don W3FPR
> -Original Message-
>
> The in
On Tuesday 14 June 2005 22:12, Matt Osborn wrote:
> The instructions call for a 3.3pf capacitor for C22. The parts list
> call for a 2.7pf or an alternate of 3.3pf.
>
> I have one baby blue straight legged cap marked as 2.7c on one side
> and 1A on the other.
>
> I'm convinced that this is C22.
The instructions call for a 3.3pf capacitor for C22. The parts list
call for a 2.7pf or an alternate of 3.3pf.
I have one baby blue straight legged cap marked as 2.7c on one side
and 1A on the other.
I'm convinced that this is C22. Anybody want to talk me out of it?
, 2005 11:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RF board - components on bottom?
This may be too late to help you much. But, I'll give
it a spin. This might be more useful to future
builders.
Many years ago in manufacturing we used a small
plastic device that was about
This may be too late to help you much. But, I'll give
it a spin. This might be more useful to future
builders.
Many years ago in manufacturing we used a small
plastic device that was about eight inches long and
about a quarter inch high and tapered from one end at
about a quarter inch to about a
Bob,
This is the way I mount and solder RFC15:
Make nice gentle bends in the leads of RFC15 starting about 1/32 to 1/16
inch away from the choke body (close but not right at the body) - using
fingers only (tools may apply too much pressure without any tactle
indication) I bend the leads so they ma
In a message dated 26/03/05 15:27:54 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
After several failures, and much thought and preparation with pre-bending
and
tinning of leads, I was finally able to get C91, C88, RFC15 soldered to the
correct points on the bottom of the board - with n
I was finally able to free up some blocks of time and begin construction of
K2 #4565. This, and my construction of a KX1 earlier this year, is the most
satisfying and enjoyable experience in ham radio that I've had in years. I've
also learned a great deal monitoring the discussions on the ref
3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: 2005/01/23 Sun AM 08:28:54 EST
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
CC: Elec-Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF board part C72 Identity
John, Tim and all,
Usual capacitor markings are not really hard to interpret - they are just
like re
Hi Tim,
I just finished the inventory on K2 #4693 yesterday. The cap you have is
C22. C72 is very similar, but is marked with a small triangle followed by
271J.
GL,
--Mike WQ5C
At 11:17 PM 1/22/2005, Tim Logan wrote:
I'm having trouble locating this part. Manual says it should be labeled
AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF board part C72 Identity
Tim:
I am using my Rev E manual for reference. It might be slightly different
in yours. There is a 2.7 pf capacitor (C22) listed and I'm wondering if
you have identified that when you did your inventory. I suspect the blue
2.7C
In a message dated 23/01/05 12:19:41 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The really confusing aspect of it all is a 270 pfd capacitor
should be labelled "271", so you have the case where something marked
"270" isn't a 270 pfd capacitor.
-
Tim:
I am using my Rev E manual for reference. It might be slightly
different in yours. There is a 2.7 pf capacitor (C22) listed and I'm
wondering if you have identified that when you did your inventory. I
suspect the blue 2.7C cap you found might be that one. Also, there is a
27 pf capac
I'm having trouble locating this part. Manual says it should be labeled
271. I have a small blue cap that is labeled 2.7C. Could this be C72?
Thanks for any help.
73/Tim NZ7C
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