Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
So, there are OK alternate techniques, such as heating both ends of the
component at the same time as Alan Bloom pointed out, or my usual
solution of heating both ends alternately in rapid succession until the
component moves, or the two soldering iron solution.
On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 10:56 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
...An engineer is a man who can do for five bob (25 cents) what anyone
can do
for a quid ($1)...
and a government contractor is an outfit that can do for a guinea what
anyone else can do for half a crown.
: Thursday, April 19, 2012 4:23 PM
To: 'Elecraft Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
Keep in mind that all of the step-by-step procedures in the Elecraft documents
were actually done by the writer, tested by others, and then refined and
improved by customer feedback. That's
I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back to Aptos for
updates. Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3. It is SMT, but they
also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT
Hi Lee,
I replaced that SMT resistor with the supplied SMT resistor. Was pretty
easy. Cut the old one in half in place, then unsoldered the two pieces.
Then made sure the solder on both sides was good and cleaned most off.
Was not much there. then tacked the SMT replacement in place on one
I started building kits in January of 2011. Been a ham for almost 20
years and missed the Heathkit Generation. Why do I mention this?
Well, the kits I wanted to build were SDR's (SoftRocks to be specific).
They are great little radios and wonderful for those wanting to
experiment with SDR;
or not a
change is necessary. Good Luck
You will really enjoy the P3.
73, Doug VE3MV
- Original Message -
From: Lee Buller k...@swbell.net
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
I have SN
you
sent
the rig back before.
From: Lee Buller k...@swbell.net
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thu, April 19, 2012 9:20:03 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back
I do not believe cutting the part in half is a good idea. The stress is
applied
to the pads
and they can lift off the board. The potential for board damage, is very high.
73,
Bob
K2TK
On 4/19/2012 10:46 AM, Tom Azlin N4ZPT wrote:
Hi Lee,
I replaced that SMT resistor with the supplied SMT
Check if it's been done. Then if you need to, just do it. The likelihood of
damaging
anything is very small.
The component in question is large, as SMT parts go. You can do it. Read the
instructions
and jump in. You will feel great afterwards.
On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
I have
Lee;
Your repair report shows that mod was done in 2010.
I am sending you a copy of the report directly to your email.
Keith
On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back to Aptos for
updates. Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that
Hi Bob,
I disagree. Did you read the Elecraft instructions?? Please do so then
comment to Elecraft on the errors in their ways.
Thanks and 73, tom n4zpt
On 4/19/2012 12:04 PM, Bob wrote:
I do not believe cutting the part in half is a good idea. The stress
is applied to the pads and they can
Now that is customer service!!!
On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 12:23 PM, Keith ke...@elecraft.com wrote:
Lee;
Your repair report shows that mod was done in 2010.
I am sending you a copy of the report directly to your email.
Keith
On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
I have SN 443 - an early
...@swbell.net
Sent: Thu, April 19, 2012 11:23:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
Lee;
Your repair report shows that mod was done in 2010.
I am sending you a copy of the report directly to your email.
Keith
On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
I have SN 443 - an early model
Bob makes a good point IMHO in that cutting the part in half is not a good
idea, it can damage the pads - been there g Better, I suggest, to
unsolder both ends at the same time, and then remove the part off the board.
Unsoldering one end and lifting that end can also stress the pad at the
Keep in mind that all of the step-by-step procedures in the Elecraft
documents were actually done by the writer, tested by others, and then
refined and improved by customer feedback. That's in accordance with Wayne's
basic requirements for Elecraft manuals. So if you take the time to follow
them
On Thu, 2012-04-19 at 14:23 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in half or
by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any damage
to the pcb.
On most two-terminal SMD parts (resistors, capacitors, etc.), the
: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:23 PM
To: 'Elecraft Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
Keep in mind that all of the step-by-step procedures in the Elecraft
documents were actually done by the writer, tested by others, and then
refined and improved by customer feedback. That's
Both at work and at home, I use two irons to remove SMD parts. The earlier
poster that warned against pad damage when clipping a chip in half was
right on; the damage won't occur most of the time, but it will certainly
happen on the hardest to remove or the hardest to replace board ;-) And, I
bits worth. Buy the way the right
tips are far less expensive than a
damaged PCB.
Mel, K6KBE
Mel
--- On Thu, 4/19/12, Alan Bloom n...@sonic.net wrote:
From: Alan Bloom n...@sonic.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
To: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Cc: 'Elecraft Discussion
It's not too bad - I would just recommend NOT simply clipping the existing
SMG resistor - but rather heating it up and using tweezers to pull it off.
If you clip with cold solder, you risk pulling up traces from the board.
You may not mean clip in this sense but I thought I'd mention it just in
Clearly, the route to dealing with SMD's is a very personal one. I would
like to offer my US$ 0.02 worth on this matter. A good, small-tip,
temperature controlled soldering pencil is very important, as is fine
gauge solder. I use a ceramic tipped iron which needs no extensive
cleaning (a wipe
expensive than a
damaged PCB.
Mel, K6KBE
Mel
--- On Thu, 4/19/12, Alan Bloomn...@sonic.net wrote:
From: Alan Bloomn...@sonic.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
To: Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz
Cc: 'Elecraft Discussion List'elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Thursday, April
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned Chipquik to ease the pain of SMT removal.
It is a low temperature alloy (something like Wood's metal - the melting
teaspoon in a hot drink prank etc.), supplied in small diameter wires
together with a special flux. Melt a little Chipquik onto an existing
Only because we were talking about simple two-terminal SMDs, Dave.
I use Chipquik for SMDs with more than two terminals. It's great!
I agree, follow the instructions on their website and you can remove/replace
huge MCUs and other chips easily.
This whole discussion reminds me of something my
Dave,
I can highly recommend Chipquik - for multilegged devices. For devices
with only 2 leads, I believe it is overkill (but it will work). My
objections with Quickchip is that one *must* clean up the site before
applying new solder - or the new solder will not stick.. The cleanup
task is
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