Phillip Hill via KRnet wrote:
> FYI: Searches work better if you know that any sheet metal less than
something like .010" is considered "foil".
I used fiberfrax and .002" foil. The lower 10" is doubled where the fuel lines
would be. It was propane torch proof, so I know I can land
t;Mark Langford via KRnet"
To:?KRnet
Cc:?"Mark Langford"
Subject:?Re: KR> Firewall
Paul Visk wrote:
>> Fiberfrax Firewall Material from Wicks and a piece of stainless
steel sheet .016" thick. I tried to find some .005" SS shim stock, but
couldn't find it wide en
Paul Visk wrote:
>> Fiberfrax Firewall Material from Wicks and a piece of stainless
steel sheet .016" thick. I tried to find some .005" SS shim stock, but
couldn't find it wide enough.<<
I couldn't find any either, and bought the .016" also. When I took it
out of the box, it amazed me how
09/07/2016 8:30 AM (GMT-06:00)
> To: KRnet
> Cc: Mike Arnold
> Subject: KR> Firewall
>
> What are you guys using to build up the firewall? Specifics.
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/searc
al message
From: Mike Arnold via KRnet
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 09/07/2016 8:30 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: KRnet
Cc: Mike Arnold
Subject: KR> Firewall
What are you guys using to build up the firewall? Specifics.
___
Search the K
What are you guys using to build up the firewall? Specifics.
Martindale Subject:
Re: KR> Firewall Edge Finish
Hi Sid
I just ran a bead of silastic around the top and sides before clamping the
steel and frax to the wall. I left the bottom open just in case something
needed to drain out. All good so far. How close are you to flight again?
John
J
ph:61 2 6658 4767
m:0403 432179
email:john_martindale at bigpond.com
web site:
-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Sid Wood via
KRnet
Sent: Thursday, 12 May 2016 1:10 AM
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Cc: Sid Wood
Subject: KR> Firewall E
ly
removed with the right polishing compound. It is also very light, but
comparatively soft.
Mark W.
N952MW (res)
USMC - '71 - '73 (to mirror Pat's veteran statement).
-Original Message-
Patrick Driscoll wrote:
Subject: Re: KR> Firewall Edge Finish
Just be sure that when you file
Just be sure that when you file or grind S/S on the firewall, you use a new
file or grinding disc. Stainless steel will not rust? It will if you use a
file or disc that was used on plain steel or iron.
Patrick Driscoll
Saint Paul, MN
patrick36 at usfamily.net
www.pensbypat.com
If you can read
What method would be used to finish the firewall edge of a stainless steel
sheet to keep out water, oil, etc. from getting between the plywood and
steel sheet, make a neat interface for the cowl and not add excessive
weight?
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
Heath - Lexington, SC
-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Peter Drake
via KRnet
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 10:34 AM
To: KR Net
Subject: KR> Firewall
Hi All
I have just got a sheet of 0.5mm Titanium for my firewall.
Has anyone got
Hi Peter..I have a box full of 1/8th monel b/h tucker popsI've
been trying to give them away as we are downsizing and need the space!
If you know anyone who could use them they're welcome
Mac
On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 3:33 PM, Peter Drake via KRnet wrote:
> Hi All
>
> I have just got
"Has anyone got any tips on how best to attach it to the ply bulkhead."
Hello Peter,
I used stainless steel truss head sheet metal screws around the perimeter. Both
sides have the traditional piano hinge and the top has the full width (radius)
angle for the forward cowling so the only place I
Hi All
I have just got a sheet of 0.5mm Titanium for my firewall.
Has anyone got any tips on how best to attach it to the ply bulkhead.
Peter Drake
Hereford
UK
)
Stef
Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see
http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2
>Origineel Bericht
>Van : krnet at list.krnet.org
>Datum : 04/12/2014 02:40
>Aan : ppaulvsk at aol.com, krnet at list.krnet.org
>Onderwerp : Re: KR> Firewall beef up for nise
)
To: KR EMAIL BOARD
Subject: KR> Firewall beef up for nise gear
I'm looking at ideas for beefing up my firewall for my nose gear.?
One that looks interesting is a piece of extrusion from the nose gear attach
point to the main spare.?
Any other ideas?
Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618 406 4705
S
>
>
> Original message
> From: Mark Jones
> Date: 12/03/2014 12:07 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: ppaulvsk ,KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Firewall beef up for nise gear
>
>
> Paul,
> Are you using the Diehl nose gear? If so why do you feel the need to
I screwed ( bolted ) mine in place around the edges when putting on the
piano hinge and then let the rest of the stuff being applied to the
firewall, be what held it in place. Also, I did not use what everyone else
used between the wood and steel. I got fire retardant paint from AS and
applied
I cut the stainless for my firewall to day. do I need to epoxy it to the plane
or just screw it in place?
Randy Moore
Newbern Tn
731 589 1330
>I cut the stainless for my firewall to day. do I need to epoxy it to
>the plane or just screw it in place?
>Randy Moore
+
You will want to put a layer of "fiberfrax" over the ply for fire
protection before applying the
r 23, 2014 4:49 PM
To: flesner at frontier.com; krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: Re: KR> firewall
thanks I will get enough to get it done , then I will mix up some flox and
epoxy and add it about 1 in on the outside of it then secure with screws
when I install the flange to attach t
http://tugantek.com/cozylinks/NNLS/test/nlFirewall.php
On 15 Mar 2014 12:52, "Kenneth B. Jones" wrote:
>
Snipped...
>
>
> John/Rogelio,
>
> IF certifying under FAR 23, and using other than the listed materials,
then the fire test is required. Who knows? Perhaps .005" stainless over
Fiberfrax is better than .015 stainless.
>
> Ken
I agree. Someone
Great info. I guess my point to the original question/comment was the designed
material was not easily found or within a reasonable price. The drawings still
shows .005 stainless and asbestos on the firewall. Maybe this dialog will
bring about some sort of addendum to the drawings with a
We're NOT certifying under Part 23. The info I provided was in response to a
question from John. But, if you want to do the test, you can get some ideas
from http://www.fire.tc.faa.gov/handbook.stm
On Mar 15, 2014, at 9:12 AM, Rogelio Serrano wrote:
> On 15 Mar 2014 12:52, "Kenneth B.
Fibnrefrax is the heat shield, not the stainless, Virg
On 3/15/2014 8:52 AM, Kenneth B. Jones wrot
>> .015 in Stainless seem to be the only option...
> Thanks for digging up the reference Ken! I'll see what I ca
>> n do.
>>
>> Right off the bat, the existing plans method for
>
>
On Mar 15, 2014, at 7:51 AM, Rogelio Serrano wrote:
> .015 in Stainless seem to be the only option...
On Mar 15, 2014, at 7:39 AM, John Bouyea wrote:
> Thanks for digging up the reference Ken! I'll see what I can do.
>
> Right off the bat, the existing plans method for constructing
I should probably clarify that the exact type of aluminum doesn't matter
much, given that it all melts at about the same temperature. I'm guessing
Tony recommended 2024-T6 because it's a little stiffer than most others and
would look better, but if you've got any kind of .015" aluminum around,
] On Behalf Of Kenneth B.
Jones
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2014 9:14 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Firewall material
On Mar 14, 2014, at 11:18 PM, John Bouyea wrote:
> Anyone make a reference as to what heat level/ temprature and duration is
"approved" as a test?
>
2000 degrees F for 1
On Mar 14, 2014, at 11:18 PM, John Bouyea wrote:
> Anyone
> make a reference as to what heat level/ temprature and duration is
> "approved" as a test?
>
2000 degrees F for 15 minutes, per part 23.
?23.1191 Firewalls.
(a) Each engine, auxiliary power unit, fuel burning heater, and other
I am pretty sure that you can get thin galvanized at Home Depot. Any
local sheet metal place should have it also. I got a 4' X 8' sheet of I
think .016" when I redid my Sonerai and Starduster firewalls. I think
it was something like $30. Aluminum will not block a fuel fire for very
long.
How much is the Stainless and Fibrefrax firewall kit ? Virg
On 3/13/2014 6:59 PM, Dan Prichard wrote:
> FYI. Neither wicks or aircraft spruce carry .005 stainless sheet or any other
> size below .015. I found a specialty supplier in Ashland Oregon and they want
> $63 per sqft. A
recall.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/fiberfrax.php?clickkey=6977
Rob Schmitt
N1852Z
www.robert7721.com
-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Dan Prichard
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2014 5:59 PM
To: KR List
Subject: KR> Firew
FYI. Neither wicks or aircraft spruce carry .005 stainless sheet or any other
size below .015. I found a specialty supplier in Ashland Oregon and they want
$63 per sqft. A touch spendy for me. Fortunately I have a piece coming from a
generous KR builder. So for the other new builders out there,
Wicks or Aircraft Spruce, Virg
On 3/10/2014 8:11 PM, Dan Prichard wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can order .005" stainless steel for the firewall?
>
> Dan Prichard
> Portland, OR
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives
Does anyone know where I can order .005" stainless steel for the firewall?
Dan Prichard
Portland, OR
Sent from my iPhone
[mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Mark
Langford
> >Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 11:41 PM
> >To: KRnet
> >Subject: Re: KR> Firewall Space
> >
> >Sid Wood wrote:
> >
> >>I am continually amazed at how much clear space some KR's have on the
>
Sid Wood wrote:
>I am continually amazed at how much clear space some KR's have on the fire
>wall while others, like my KR-2, are packed. Is there some rhyme or reason
>for that?
I put as much stuff as possible on the aft side of the firewall, just to
keep it out of the heat. That was made
I am continually amazed at how much clear space some KR's have on the fire
wall while others, like my KR-2, are packed. Is there some rhyme or reason
for that?
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
---
> See enclosed photo. More
, 2011 3:24 PM
Subject: KR> Firewall Covering
Netters,
What is the best method to cover the firewall plywood and make it fireproof?
I was thinking I'd use sheet metal (about 22 gauge SS) But I do not know of
a good adhesive. I was wondering if there are any other good ideas out
there
Chris,
I can't tell you the best way, but I just re-built mine due to the "Swiss
Cheese" look that it had after I removed the VW. I chose .018 SS on the
wood which I painted with FireStop. I got these from AS. The SS is
attached to the firewall by nothing other than the screws and bolts that
: Sunday, July 24, 2011 3:25 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Firewall Covering
Netters,
What is the best method to cover the firewall plywood and make it
fireproof? I was thinking I'd use sheet metal (about 22 gauge SS) But I do
not know of a good adhesive. I was wondering if there are
Fibrefrax and SS. The kit should be available from AS or Wicks, Virg
On 7/24/2011 4:24 PM, Chris corbine wrote:
> Netters,
>
> What is the best method to cover the firewall plywood and make it fireproof?
> I was thinking I'd use sheet metal (about 22 gauge SS) But I do not know
Netters,
What is the best method to cover the firewall plywood and make it fireproof? I
was thinking I'd use sheet metal (about 22 gauge SS) But I do not know of a
good adhesive. I was wondering if there are any other good ideas out there..
All inputs are welcome...
Thanks,
Chris Corbine
Hey guys,
Over here in the Netherlands we are bussy with the fwd deck, canopy frame and
the aft deck. If I am looking at the next stage we have to think about the fire
wall. We have made the decision to go for an 100 HP engine. Did any of you make
the connection from the firewall to the
Hey guys,
Over here in the Netherlands we are bussy with the fwd deck, canopy frame and
the aft deck. If I am looking at the next stage we have to think about the fire
wall. We have made the decision to go for an 100 HP engine. Did any of you make
the connetion from the firewall to the
Hi folks,
I have a question. I've been using T88 epoxy and decided to try
Aeropoxy PR2032 Resin with
PH3660 hardener. I glassed a part of my elevator with it three days
ago and, although it has
set up and no longer tacky, it is still flexible. I can still indent
it with my finger. Is it
McMaster Carr sells various thicknesses of thin stainless steel. I used
some .005" for some of the "NACA duct" protection from exhaust heat that I
put under those ducts. See
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3710/=bh9nfp . A 24" x 50" piece of
.005" is $42.05.
Also, a 2'x3' piece of
Some folks asked where to get Fiberfrax. See
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php . I think I used 1/8", but
1/16" is supposed to work fine. I guess that's another reason my plane is
heavy, although fiberfrax is a tiny fraction of the weight of stainless
steel, and that was my
Hmmm that is true, though I do have a real small tank too so there is alot
of weight savings there. Guess it all depends on several factors. I guess if
I was going the two place route I would worry more about it as tyring to lug
300-400lbs of humans then every single pound saved counts.
I won't
Joe Fuentes wrote:
>>Was reading though the plans, and it seems it was supposed to have cooking
foil thin firewall, .005, gezz that is thin!! No wonder it peeled off with
my fingers. I'm going with stainless steel at .035 yea a little more weight,
but...<<
I thought exactly the same thing, so I
Dan Heath wrote:
> What thickness and alloy is being used now, for the firewall. I will be
> re-surfacing mine when I install the Corvair and will use Stainless.
> Also,
> what is the insulation material that is preferred.
I bought a piece of .016" stainless for my firewall and was shocked
I have seen 0.040 with stainless and 0.06 with aluminum. Use Fiber
Frax. It comes in to thickness's.
Hope this helps
Cheers
M. Greg Martin
>
> Dan Heath wrote:
>> What thickness and alloy is being used now, for the firewall. I will be
>> re-surfacing mine when I install the Corvair and
/10, Dan Heath <da...@windstream.net> wrote:
From: Dan Heath <da...@windstream.net>
Subject: RE: KR> Firewall Stainless and Insulation
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sunday, June 27, 2010, 11:43 AM
I imagine that the stainless would be terribly
deformed.
Hi Dan,
Have not tried the method listed at the bottom but:
On the LONGEZE we were to use Fiberfrax on the firewall covered over with Type
301 or 302 .016 Stainless Steel Sheet
Larry Howell
From: Dan Heath da...@windstream.net
Has anyone used this
Has anyone used this method? It looks good to me for getting the mount
directly on the firewall, but I imagine that the stainless would be terribly
deformed. The engine on the Black Bird, and the one on the Little Beast,
were mounted on top of all the layers as I had never given any thought to
compress and possibly cause future looseness.
- Remove the bolts and bolt on your engine mount."
Tom
--- On Sun, 6/27/10, Dan Heath <da...@windstream.net> wrote:
From: Dan Heath <da...@windstream.net>
Subject: KR> Firewall Stainless
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sunday, June 27, 2010, 8:13 AM
Wicks & AS carry the firewall kit. Stainless and fibrefax, Virg
Dan Heath wrote:
> What thickness and alloy is being used now, for the firewall. I will be
> re-surfacing mine when I install the Corvair and will use Stainless. Also,
> what is the insulation material that is preferred.
>
What thickness and alloy is being used now, for the firewall. I will be
re-surfacing mine when I install the Corvair and will use Stainless. Also,
what is the insulation material that is preferred.
Yes, I searched the archives back to 2006 and did not find the answer.
Daniel R. Heath
been more informative and helpful
than you, and, still, I was unable to manage the "Little Beast". Hope things
are going well with you, your family and the Blackbird.
Yours, as always, Rick
--- On Tue, 6/2/09, Dan Heath <da...@windstream.net> wrote:
From: Dan Heath <da...@windstre
I suggest that you also remove the engine. When the Little Beast was
delivered here for repairs, and I removed the front deck, I found that the
firewall was separating from the cross member shelf. I am certain that it
was caused by the long trip with the engine on the plane. I will never move
Hi Guys,
I have a friend with a KR2 that wants to know how much he can hang on the
firewall without doing any mods. The KR2 was designed for a 1600 VW and as
we all know, those years have come and gone. You guys with the bigger and
heavier engines on the stock KR2, have you made any mods to the
I have a friend with a KR2 that wants to know how much he can hang on
the firewall without doing any mods.
One answer would be to minimize the weight carried by the firewall. If you
look at the Falco, another airplane with a wood fuselage, the engine mount
attaches at the very edge of
2180 VW no mods.
See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics
See you at the 2007 - KR Gathering
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying
has begun.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
---Original Message---
You guys with the bigger and
I have searched the archive but did not find what I was looking for so here it
goes.
What is the best way (Or the way you did it) to hold the 1/4" plywood firewall
in place firmly against the fuselage while to glue sets up?
Steven Phillabaum
KR2S; 5048; corvair;
Auburn, Alabama
Subject: KR> Firewall attaching
I have searched the archive but did not find what I was looking for so
here it goes.
What is the best way (Or the way you did it) to hold the 1/4" plywood
firewall in place firmly against the fuselage while to glue sets up?
Steven Phillabaum
KR2S; 5048;
elder/flying/KR1/
- Original Message
From: "skp...@charter.net" <skp...@charter.net>
To: KRNET <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 8:58:14 AM
Subject: KR> Firewall attaching
I have searched the archive but did not find what I was looking for so he
Duct tape works for most anything like this :-)
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of skp...@charter.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 7:58 AM
To: KRNET
Subject: KR> Firewall attaching
I have searched the archive but
Elder
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 12:40 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Firewall attaching
I used wood screws (or drywall variety) equally spaced... about 6" apart.
Just take them out when the glue sets.
Matt
-
Matthew Elder
Orange
I am having a little trouble figuring out something and I was hoping you guys
could help. I turned my fuselage over last night and am about to install my
longeron doublers. My question is, with the upper longerons at an angle because
of the angle of the fuselage how do I attach the doublers? Do
I don't think it matters. I just stuck mine on the
existing longeron, and I know several others have done
the same.
Why would it matter if it's "level". It would be
easier to have a miter in one plane to install the
upper cross braces, but haveing a compound miter is a
whole lot easier in my
Mark Langford, Looking at your engine page I was wondering about the coil wire
where it goes through the firewall. Where did you get the through the firewall
connector?
kr2coo...@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Pour : kr...@mylist.net
> cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
> Objet : KR> firewall
>
> I used fiberfrax from Wicks
> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=665/index.html
> and glued it down with its glue, along with the sta
Could somebody tell me if a 1000 x 750mm (39.3" x29.5") sheet of Stainless
Steel is enough to cover the firewall of a stock KR2?
Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France
Yes Serge that is big enough.
I bought mine pre-cut and rolled for cheaper shipping and then just cut to fit.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1895/index.html
Second line down is for $27.17 which is what mine cost plus shipping.
If I remember it was something close to 23
voyé par : krnet-bounces+serge.vidal=sagem@mylist.net
13/01/2006 15:06
Veuillez répondre à brokerpilot96ta; Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 13/01/2006 15:06
Pour : kr...@mylist.net
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : KR> Firewall
Yes Serge th
I used fiberfrax from Wicks
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=665/index.html
and glued it down with its glue, along with the stainless sheet. I used 6 small
stainless screws to hold the sheet
metal flush until the glue cured.
erpilot96ta; Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 13/01/2006 15:30
Pour : kr...@mylist.net
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : KR> firewall
I used fiberfrax from Wicks
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=665/index.html
and glued it d
ndre à brokerpilot96ta; Veuillez répondre à KRnet
> Remis le : 13/01/2006 15:06
>
>
> Pour : kr...@mylist.net
> cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
> Objet : KR> Firewall
>
>
>
> Yes Serge that is big enough.
> I bought mine pre-cut and
> Could somebody tell me if a 1000 x 750mm (39.3" x29.5") sheet of Stainless
> Steel is enough to cover the firewall of a stock KR2?
>
> Serge Vidal
> KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
> Paris, France
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at
Ron
If I were to be building at a point where you are it would seem to me to be the
easiest to just keep the firewall the same, and adjust things so that there is
a straight line down the side to the widest point at your hips. This will get
you closest to a teardrop shape and correct the shape
Colin wrote:
>> Mark L. has been advocating for years to straighten the sides to
>> eliminate the banana boat effect, and sited the builders that have have
>> been happy with the results...<<
Well, not really advocating to straighten the sides. It's an option, and it
works, but I also don't
Ithink that if ever things got that hot that the
fumes given off past a sealed firewall bulkhead
would be the least of your problems.Yes I have
welded it, it has to be at fusion temperatures
to give off fumes
Don Chisholm
At 02:13 PM 1/11/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Ithink that if ever things got that hot that the
>fumes given off past a sealed firewall bulkhead
>would be the least of your problems.Yes I have
>welded it, it has to be at fusion temperatures
>to give off fumes
>Don Chisholm
About a year ago someone
Do not forget the Fibrefrax, Virg
On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 09:14:38 -0500 (EST) Don Chisholm
writes:
> when I did the Firewall on my KR1 I used galvanised
> sheet metal from the local heating airconditioning shop
> I didn't like the thickness of the stainless
just to stir the pot a bit more on the subject
of firewall mat'ls
check out page 12 sonerai construction manual
just about every steel tube and fabric airplane that I
have encountered uses galvanized sheet for
firewall material.
studying other designs can only make your airplane
better, each
OK, sounds good to me, I hope none of us ever have a fire to worry about
testing them...
Appears you were ahead of the game on it.
RG
Don Chisholm wrote:
Ithink that if ever things got that hot that the
fumes given off past a sealed firewall bulkhead
would be the
>just about every steel tube and fabric airplane that I
>have encountered uses galvanized sheet for
>firewall material.
>Don Chisholm
>++
Those are usually "stand alone" pieces of metal for a firewall also
and quite heavy compared to what we
Tony Bengelis The Sport Plane Builder
see note page 182
All plywood firewalls,whether of the
laminated built-up type,or of the single plywood
web type should be overlaid and insulated with
a 1/16-inch sheet of asbestos and a layer of
.016 inch stainless sheet or galvanized sheet
or ( fibrefrax,
There are advantages to being a farmer in tobacco country. The old =
drying
kilns were built using asbestos and since it is no longer available I
brought several sheet home and stored them in the barn. Nice stuff 1/3 =
inch
thick 3 x 8 foot sheets. After covering with stainless the only thing =
t'" <kr...@mylist.net>
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : RE: KR> firewall materials
There are advantages to being a farmer in tobacco country. The old drying
kilns were built using asbestos and since it is no longer available I
brought several sheet hom
At 09:57 AM 1/14/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>Now, guys, you do what you want, but personally, I won't want to have
>anything to do with asbestos. I would rather die from an engine fire than
>from a nasty, lengthy lung cancer!
>
>This being said, I don't have to die from an engine fire, since there are
riday, January 14, 2005 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: Réf. : RE: KR> firewall materials
> At 09:57 AM 1/14/2005 +0100, you wrote:
> >Now, guys, you do what you want, but personally, I won't want to have
> >anything to do with asbestos. I would rather die from an engine fire than
> >from
Greetings again
I was covering my fire wall with the stainless steel and screwed it up big
time. Does anyone know the thickness, etc., and what supplier has it The blue
prints doesn't tell me anything other then its stainless steel.
Thanks
Patricia
Patricia and others.
My stainless sheet is 0.007 inches thick.
It is or was on the parts catalog from RR.
Now my question to the list:
My stainless sheet is already attached to the 1/4 inch
firewall.
I need to drill holes.
Is there a drill bit that cuts thru the stainless?
So far no joy.
Louis
The stainless steel will work harden quickly when you drill using normal
procedures. It can even melt the end of your drill bit on the second hole!!
The trick is to run the drill as slowly as possible while maintaining as
much force as you can without buckling the bit. Use Go Jo handcleaner for
>
>I was covering my fire wall with the stainless steel and screwed it up big
>time. Does anyone know the thickness, etc., and what supplier has it The
blue
>prints doesn't tell me anything other then its stainless steel.
>Patricia
+=
I seem
when I did the Firewall on my KR1 I used galvanised
sheet metal from the local heating airconditioning shop
I didn't like the thickness of the stainless steel sheet
supplied by Rand Robinson. Make a pattern, you can
probably get them to shear it to shape
Don Chisholm
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