Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
with that much oil usage, you either have a bad bad leak, broken rings,
cracked pistons, scored cylinder walls
Other than OM603.97 engines with bent rods and elliptical cylinder
bores, the only time I've seen qt/200-250 miles was when I had a blown
head gasket
Thank you, Sir!
At 10:30 AM 3/27/2006, you wrote:
Loren Faeth wrote:
The 88 300TE is getting water in both rear wheel wells. Under the third
seat is also getting wet. When I open the seat back and bottom, the
carpet
underneath is wet. Can anyone shed light as to what the source of the
Huh. Too bad these things are so cranky. That's not very nice.
I went out this a.m. and hit the hazards, and got some reaction - they
work normally, and if I hit the right side turn sigs. while the
hazards are on, they work (the left stop blinking when I do this in
other words).
Brian
83 240d
Try fixing grounds. I had similar problems with an old Ford that my younger son
was driving last summer. I finally
resolved the problem after doing all of the other stuff like changing bulbs and
sockets, by attaching a new ground
wire at each corner between the harness and the frame. No more
Does it have tailights that you'd like to sell??
Yes, and no. They're its best feature!
-- Jim
I went out this a.m. and hit the hazards, and got some reaction - they
work normally, and if I hit the right side turn sigs. while the
hazards are on, they work (the left stop blinking when I do this in
other words).
Huh? When the hazards are on the turn signal lever should
be inoperative.
Thanks for the reply Marshall -
The car has never been in an accident and the problem doesn't seem to be
temperature related as it did it on the way to work today (about 20 or so
out).
I will check the ball joints.
Would a clogged filter do this? What has me confused is after I turned and
Thanks Loren. I'll certainly try to tighten it up. By the way, what's that
second terminal, (stud) for anyway? Mine doesn't have any wire going to it.
Brian
83 240D
On 3/26/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
BINGO! that'd do it! If the stud on the solenoid is tight, and only the
nut
No doubt the 380 is slower at high RPM than a 500 SEC/SL but the max torque
comes on quickly at about 2700RPM and the rear axle ratio of 2.47:1 gives
the car lots of low RPM acceleration. I've owned a half dozen diesel and gas
MB cars and have never thought my present 380 SEC was a
Yeah, that seems funny to me too, but it happened. So you're saying that the
hazards operating is essentially the hazard switch telling it to run both
turn signals at once? And when this happens, the input from the turn sigs.
is negated, or has no effect? Not trying to make things difficult, just
Joe signed off this list, too high a fluff-to-content level I think,
lol. He's still dieseling away with his 124.193 wagon though.
=)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 15:27:48 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Headlight
Try turning the hazard switch on and off 30-50 times! The dimmer for the
dash lights is on the cluster just below the gauges on the right side I
think. If not then it's the one on the left side.
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
Bill. I would second that.
My 85 380SL is very quick off the line and keeps up very nicely with
city traffic. In the 50 to 90 mph range, it does run out of steam.
One of the reasons I wanted the 380SL was due to the fact that it
burns regular unleaded. Big factor for me today.
OTOH, am starting
What is the tool they say you need.
I just changed my OM603 belt and didn't need any special stuff.. is
yours that different?
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
The solenoid is a switch. The top stud has a cable connected to the
battery. The bottom terminal has a strap that goes to the wiring inside
the starter. That is why, when your solenoid fails, you can jump the
starter, with a big screwdriver, or equivalent, and cause the starter to
run. (but
Ok, I just checked my 124 manual and I don't see any mention of an SST.
(special service tool)
All you need out of the ordinary is a longish bar to use as a lever to
tension the belt tensioning mechanism.
Do you want the pdf?
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
If it is the same as my '81 300SD it is the same button that resets the trip
mileage. A rheostat that burned out on me the first time I turned it - had
to replace [bought a cheap cluster from a 560 and swapped it out.
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL
'Got mine at salvage yard.
Wilton
Well,
Got my 1990 350SDL w/250K back after about 3 weeks of sunroof and paint
repairs and it developed a problem...Turn key on, NO GP light. Give it
a few seconds ...Turn key to Start ..Car starts, then the GP light goes
on for about 10 seconds or so and goes off. Car runs rough for about the
You guys are disappointing me! I though sure someone would have suggested
opting for an OM606 in a R129, or at least a 603 in a 107! Or one of
those crazy Finn engines with 800 HP and clouds of black
smoke! Personally, I'd like a Euro 280SL 5 spd. I have always preferred
inline to v-8
longish bar to use as a lever I use a 12 long 3/8 socket
extension. works great. In fact I think that IS the special tool for that!
At 12:31 PM 3/27/2006, you wrote:
Ok, I just checked my 124 manual and I don't see any mention of an SST.
(special service tool)
All you need out of the
I've also realized that they want you to remove the fan blades, clutch
and the radiator. I didn't take any of that out. I removed the shroud
clips and moved it aside a bit, cursed and swore a bit but got the job
done without removing all the crap they said you needed to!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
What's up? Bad GP's? GP relay?
One or more GP's is out. Wiring can be at fault too, you know.
Get out the ohmmeter an spend the 10 minutes it takes to know
for sure!
-- Jim
Try turning the hazard switch on and off 30-50 times! The dimmer for
the
dash lights is on the cluster just below the gauges on the right side I
think. If not then it's the one on the left side.
It's the one (on the left) that makes the nasty scrapey/scratchey
sound when you twist it.
-- Jim
Yeah, that seems funny to me too, but it happened. So you're saying
that the
hazards operating is essentially the hazard switch telling it to run
both
turn signals at once? And when this happens, the input from the turn
sigs.
is negated, or has no effect?
Exactly. Reading the schematic for
Dave Wakin wrote:
Thanks for the reply Marshall -
The car has never been in an accident and the problem doesn't seem to be
temperature related as it did it on the way to work today (about 20 or so
out).
I will check the ball joints.
Would a clogged filter do this? What has me confused is
I received 4 tickets in Bethesda, MD over a 30 day period for driving up to
45 mph in four different 30 mph zones. Geico threatened to cancel my auto
insurance, but I pleaded (whined) directly top their VP so they reconsidered
and just doubled my rates for a few years while I learned my lesson.
Plan to get change that and see what happens - thanks again for your help
Dave
- Original Message -
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 Wagon Steering - Possible Bad Power
http://feedback.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedbackuserid=hk-plusiid=8051273241frm=284
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
When the seal on a 123 300 TD rear hatch leaks the rear cargo bay carpet is
wet near where the hatch closes. Also, both my side windows leaked at
different times, and Banner Glass resealed them for about $20/side (this was
a decade ago).
Andrew
1983 300TD
On 3/27/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL
Larry,
On my 603-engined 300sdl, I was able to replace the belt in a parking lot
with only the tools that came with the car. There is a neat little hole
that perfectly fits the tire iron, used to counter spring tension.
Would be easier with a couple of common sockets and a ratchet, though.
Howdy!
Well, ... perhaps I misinterpreted it - it says to use
WF58.50-P-3902-01A and calls it a Lever for pressing spring tensioning
lever Poly V-Belt tensioning device -- ya'll are probably right about it
just being a long lever - but never having done it I feared is was notched
or had a
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Howdy -
I plan to replace the Serpentine Belt on my '91 300D 2.5T shortly and after
reading the WSM it appears straightforward. The question I have is how to
adjust the tension mechanism. The manual shows a special tool - which I
don;t have - is there a backyard
Jeff Zedic wrote:
Ok, I just checked my 124 manual and I don't see any mention of an SST.
(special service tool)
All you need out of the ordinary is a longish bar to use as a lever to
tension the belt tensioning mechanism.
The handle end of the lug wrench supplied with the car PERFECTLY
andrew strasfogel wrote:
When the seal on a 123 300 TD rear hatch leaks the rear cargo bay carpet is
wet near where the hatch closes. Also, both my side windows leaked at
different times, and Banner Glass resealed them for about $20/side (this was
a decade ago).
Usually when the cargo bay
On Mar 26, 2006, at 9:39 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
It's what seems to work best at eliminating that nasty air bubble
in the head. Make sure you install the thermostat correctly with
the air bleed hole (or jiggle valve) up.
-- Jim
I pull the temp sensor, its pretty high up toward the front of
Has anyone else wondered how long or what's the rest of THIS story when
Marshall says something like this?? I have, and wish he'd fill us in..
~
~DO NOT ASK how long I owned a 123 wagon before I discovered that!
~
~Marshall
~--
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82
Has a TON of great articles - this is my first issue. Has a better article on
the Popemobiles.
MB Classic is a near must for most on this list, IMO. If you've never seen
it, call MBUSA and order a current or back issue. It is really great. WAY
better than STAR, at least for me as I am
Unfortunately, instead of receiving my latest MB Classic, they sent me 2
copies of the 04/2005 issue. So now I have three copies of that issue, and
none of the 01/2006 issue.
I called MBUSA, and they said they'd ship me a new one, but that that would
be the last issue I receive because they're
I just subscribed! I better get a refund or some back issues to compensate! Ugh.
Chris
Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Unfortunately, instead of receiving my
latest MB Classic, they sent me 2
copies of the 04/2005 issue. So now I have three copies of that issue, and
none of the
He burned out 2,477 fuses and 335 rear hatch light bulbs before HIS inner
light bulb illuminated!
On 3/27/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Has anyone else wondered how long or what's the rest of THIS story
when Marshall says something like this?? I have, and wish he'd fill us
On Sat, Mar 25, 2006 at 06:11:11PM -0500, Bob DuPuy wrote:
Got it! The dent puller was a no go, bad agle due to the condensor. I
soaked it with PB again then rattled the boss on the back side of the
headwith an air hammer. Then I heated it with some Mapp gas and
applied the bolt and washer
I may have missed it but have you checked for valve guides/seals. IIRC it
takes a leak down test rather than a compression test to determine if they
are bad. The ones in my 91 300CE are bad at 200k and it is buring a quart
every 1,000 miles or so. It doesn't have any oil smoke at all, only some
There always seems to be quite a few for the 124 and 201 chassis but 123
clear indicators are quite rare and the ones I bought where of cheap
construction but did the job until my missus had a momentary lapse of
concentration.
However if you spot some 123 ones let me know. Then again maybe it's
Alan Duff wrote:
I may have missed it but have you checked for valve guides/seals. IIRC it
takes a leak down test rather than a compression test to determine if they
are bad. The ones in my 91 300CE are bad at 200k and it is buring a quart
every 1,000 miles or so. It doesn't have any oil smoke
Thanks Jeff but I could not find any stuff for 123's in their store.
Anyway I got to focus on the more mundane aspects like oil change and tune
up.
Hendrik
- Original Message -
From: Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, March 28,
Found some in England, ebay number 8041305307
Bit pricey.
Hendrik
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mon Mar 27 21:47:37 2006
Received: from wproxy.gmail.com ([64.233.184.226])
by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FNzYn-0001Yw-Qx
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mon, 27 Mar 2006 21:47:37
I went to wire the unused rear fog lights in my '82 240D/3.0 as extra
brake lights and found that there are no sockets there.
Does anyone have a couple of extra brake light sockets for a W123?
You should be able to find what you want at any german car graveyard since
the sockets are fairly
www.strichacht.de/daten.html
That's a great website. So, my '72 250 had an M130 engine. Who knew? And
only 130PS. And the quoted top speed of 112mph is what mine would do after a
five mile flat out run. If the14mpg was mentioned on the data sheet, I couldn't
read it.
I notice that sixty
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Mercedes-Benz-300SD-Diesel-Car-and-Driver-car_W0QQitemZ4624538378QQcategoryZ6336QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Here is the CD hoopty that they drove from MI to CA.
No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mon Mar 27
I miss the fifties palette.
Yeah, me too. '56 Belair teal and ivory two-tone.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
How about any color you want so long as the interior is grey? Seems to be that
way right now. I don't really mind
the grey interior in my truck but it would look alright in blue or tan as the
truck is blue.
Randy B
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(The cruise is fixed. What a nightmare!)
-- Jim
March 25, 2006
Removed the test contacts in the amplifier and put it back in its
case. Put together the bench vacuum pump again now that its glue has
had a chance to dry. When stuffed inside its foam 'football' it's
really quite quiet. It
(The cruise is fixed. What a nightmare!)
-- Jim
I admire your persistence and patience. I have projects laying around from
*gasp* twenty plus years that need attention. Where do you find the time and
motivation for such things? Gotta admit I like your writing style too.
Rick Knoble
'85
Our dealer had in an infamous w140 350SDL, they told me the turbo was
cracked and when
hot and only when really hot it would leak oil into the intake and
produce *huge* clouds of
blue smoke.
On 27-Mar-06, at 9:04 AM, Marshall Booth wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
with that much oil
Moose green!
834
moosgrün
That would be a good color for a 220 D
As with the Heckflossen colors, not all colors were offered each year.
At 04:02 PM 3/27/2006, you wrote:
www.strichacht.de/daten.html
That's a great website. So, my '72 250 had an M130 engine. Who knew? And
only 130PS. And
I know how you feel. For example, I have a cedar and canvas canoe that I bought
in 1974 that remains in my garage
attic waiting for me to repair it. I have had it more than 30 years and never
had it in the water. Also bought a
set of plans and the works for a grandfather clock in about 1982 and
It's actually much faster to pull the fan -- I've done it both ways,
and with the fan out it's about 10 min, with it in, more like an
hour.
Peter
Congratulations Jim.
Harry
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon
(The cruise is fixed. What a nightmare!)
-- Jim
March 25, 2006
On Mar 26, 2006, at 1:39 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
I had a '78 (or was it '76?) Lebaron SE with 360/727 and T-tops,
does that count?
(this was when the Cordoba and Lebaron were basically the same car)
Not big enough. I'm talking land yacht here. Actually, I'm not
talking at all. Just came
On Mar 26, 2006, at 1:11 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Howdy -
While familarizing myself with my new 300D I discovered what
appears to be
an open vacuum line. It's black and starts on what I believe is
the fuel
shut-off valve on the side of the IP. The black tube
On Mar 26, 2006, at 1:37 PM, redghost wrote:
She was also considering an audi TT. Does anyone
care to offer some advice?
Bob DuPuy
Give her what she wants. If she's anything like my Wife, she
deserves it and more.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
There was a discussion of lighting a few days ago. I know I am late to the
game. Has anyone ever ordered from these guys? Their prices look good for
Euro headlights, but there is not much info about what you get and what you
need.
ANGELO GIAIMO wrote:
Well,
=
Got my 1990 350SDL w/250K back after about 3 weeks of sunroof and paint
repairs and it developed a problem...Turn key on, NO GP light. Give it
a few seconds ...Turn key to Start ..Car starts, then the GP light goes
on for about 10 seconds or so and goes off.
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