eric peterson wrote:
any special areas to pay attention to in looking at a
220 SEB. What is a solid car needing work worth? Is
$2500 too much it needs a bit to make it roadworthy
but seems solid. NADA has low value at around $10K
IIRC.
RUST, RUST, RUST!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (
Sexton had one of those and says it was a money pit!
I know that rust is a major issue with those cars. Check the trunk and
floor!
I love the styling!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does anyone know of a place that rents the RIV position sensor to set the
start of delivery on the inj. pump? Rusty, how much is a new one?
Is there another way to set the start of delivery without the sensor?
You can set the timing PERFECTLY using the locking screw 6
any special areas to pay attention to in looking at a
220 SEB. What is a solid car needing work worth? Is
$2500 too much it needs a bit to make it roadworthy
but seems solid. NADA has low value at around $10K
IIRC.
Eric
crunched 85 300CD 97K
__
Do
Hmm, there really is no way to get fuel THROUGH the IP without purging
the fill chamber. However, have you checked that you get flow from the
pump ONLY, not just from the fliter -- the return line is common past
where the FI line goes in.
A fine mystery!
Make sure the rack rotates the slee
Broken rod damage to the block depends on which way the piston is going
when the rod fails, and where the rod breaks. If the cap fails on the
down stroke (usually at the bottom), the crank will smack the end of
the rod through the side of the block next time it goes round.
If the rod fails on
"J.B. Hebert" wrote:
>
> I have not detected any loss of oil anywhere, including into the
> coolant or bellhousing, so I have to think that it is not a galley plug.
Dad's 360 Ford returned it to the sump when he lost a galley plug.
No oil pressure, plenty of perfectly good oil in the sump, clatte
There are two lines, one for the brake booster and another smaller one
for everything else.
Get a MitiVac and check the two lines from the 5-way T in front of the
engine that go over to the passenger side -- the actuators blow out and
you don't get enough vac to run the AC or tranny controls.
Yoinks!
I'm a big fan of stretching oil changes, 15kmi would be awesome.
Thanks for the advice Marshall, I'll try not to be such a wuss this time. I
expect last time I only got ~4 quarts of oil out which would mean more like 30%
dilution but I see what you're saying, its probably no big d
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 06:10:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil thread
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
That sounds like an outrageously good price for a 13 1/2 hp engine.
T
$300.00
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor
617 589 08 21 00
Mark Maturo
"Rusty Cullens"
<[
Thanks, Robert, that's exactly the sort of information I was looking for.
Gerry
according to the distributor website, yes, it can be used without a gasket
:
- Temp range of -60F to +600F
- Non-hardening and non-setting
- Vibration resistant
- Re-sealable and re-useable
- Use with or without a
617 589 08 21 00
Mark Maturo
"Rusty Cullens"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.com>
If you can get me a part # I can see how much.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:17 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] RIV sensor
Does anyone know of a place that rents the RIV pos
Curt Raymond wrote:
I mean I had 15w50 oil in it but it was apparently only a 40wt oil when hot. I
expect thats thinning due to contamination from old oil leftover in the
crankcase. I was also concerned that the Iron in the oil seemed a bit high. It
was only the first oil change since I'd boug
Does anyone know of a place that rents the RIV position sensor to set the
start of delivery on the inj. pump? Rusty, how much is a new one?
Is there another way to set the start of delivery without the sensor?
Thanks
Mark Maturo
I spent considerably more than $50 in the final analysis. $350 for a "new"
rebuilt motor (which has been excellent), $50 in ancilary bits and bobs,
another $50 punishment for not having any locktite available when I put the
flywheel nut on. Another $150 or so for 4 new tires (a garden tractor wi
I would lay money on electrical problem like bad ground at instrument
cluster. This is based on the oil level and the oil pressure both having
problems with correct oil level. The only way I could see this happening is
an electrical problem, foaming oil(unlikely), or clogged drain holes in
heads(ve
I had a caravan which did the same thing. I found that the problem was
caused by low transmission pressure. Specifically the fluid would get hot
and cause the pressure to drop which shifted the shift points. I found that
changing fluid would reduce problem for about 2 months. My solution was to
do
according to the distributor website, yes, it can be used without a gasket :
- Temp range of -60F to +600F
- Non-hardening and non-setting
- Vibration resistant
- Re-sealable and re-useable
- Use with or without a gasket
- Unlimited assembly time
- Allows metal to metal contact
- Seals surface imp
Also, I have recently noticed that the shifter sometimes will not go
past N into R or P. Worn shifter bushings? Could there be a
connection?
Does this car have a rod to the transmission? Is it possible that
bad mounts are causing enough displacement of the tranny that it's
affecting the shifter
The pan was off less than 20k miles ago, so unless something odd
happened I can't imagine that much buildup would have occurred that
quickly. Not that I'm dismissing the clocked screen, but I would be
very surprised if that was the case. If the gauge checks out, the
pan will be the next thing
This is the E300. It is non-turbo, but does still have the piston
cooling jets. However, I do not know as they can fall off. I think
they are just a specific sized hole drilled in existing material, but
I may be wrong.
I have not detected any loss of oil anywhere, including into the
coolan
The 85 trans will still have the b2, unless its a california version
722.4, then it wont. In which case it wont last nearly as long as the
tranny thats supposed to be in there because its a lighter duty tranny.
Dan Weeks wrote:
On my 82 SD, I have a strange trans issue that shows up only after
you apparantly dont know much about Oklahoma. No, we dont live in the
desert, no we dont have to fight off them injuns. There is not much out
in western oklahoma but eastern ok is green and lush, with many scenic
lakes and rivers and mountains. This part of the state is called "green
country
Yea, when I got mine it would run everything all at once. Had low
vacuum. I unhooked the lines to the passenger side as I said before and
it helped. But replacing the pump is what was really needed as it was
the old style pump.
OK Don wrote:
Tried to take a picture for you, but I can bare
Well if you are not getting enough vacuum from the brake booster line
your pump might not be putting out enough vacuum. First thing to do is
to pull off an plug each seperate vacuum system to see if that is whats
leaking. Such as the trans shifting part of it, then the climate
control part.
Sounds like you're getting into oddball territory. I'd throw my hat in the
ring for sucking air. On the 77 240D I acquired the PO had added a Racor
fuel/water filter. The line from the device to the screen filter was a bit
too tight and had developed a slight hole/tear. Not so much as to leak,
I had a trapped air problem in my S350 that I fixed by loosening the
injector lines at the top of the injector, then cranking until fuel
squirted out.
-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300
On 6/27/06, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
1987 300 TD
As you may remember, several list members have made
Transmission is shot. I'll give you $501.
Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:
> On my 82 SD, I have a strange trans issue that shows up only after
> running a couple hundred miles, shutting down, then starting up
> again. On restart, the trans sometimes shifts late out of second, and
> very
Oaklahoma is pretty dry though right? Lotta dust while you mow if you haven't
been watering?
I like mowing, hate mowers. Any mower made in the last 20 years was made as
cheap as possible. I need to finish the deck for my Cub Cadet, thats a real
mower...
The most fun mowing is taking
This still pretty much is my youth, at least I keep telling myself that. Funny
how turning 30 didn't really hit me until months later.
I try, oh how I try, to cut back my stories. Somehow it works when I'm
talking but when I'm writing, not so much...
-Curt
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006
A broken connecting rod is no big deal, I got my Cub Cadet for $50 because it
had thrown a rod, but throwing it out through the block is a much bigger event.
My only suspicion is that the piston siezed suddenly and the rod started to
bend so when it failed the pent up energy was enough for the s
How about a vise grip on the bottom rim of the can and a large hose
clamp up above?
Sure! I just didn't have a hose clamp that large, and it was
quicker to flange one up out of wire than to go get one. Once
I had it, then I didn't need the hose clamp anymore, so I never
did go get one.
-- Jim
Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> Until I found my expensive stove for cheap at Goodwill, I made a strap
> out of a coat hanger that I used, in conjunction with two small vise
> grips, to clamp the R12 can tap to the side of the can.
How about a vise grip on the bottom rim of the can and a large hose
clamp
Can it be used without a gasket?
Gerry
- Original Message -
From: "M.Afzaal.Khan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hylomar HPF availability
Recently I picked two tubes from Halfords; auto parts store in Lon
Recently I picked two tubes from Halfords; auto parts store in London.
UK Made. At least its available in some places.
mak
-
It looks like Permatex
discontinued it sometime back as there is no reference to it on their
website
Bummer - Bummer - Bummer
This is my staple sealer however
Unless the doors,trunk and gas door is the problem then that is a
different system commencing from a pump found in the spare tire well.
On 6/27/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> system? I'm not getting enough vacuum from the check valve tap on the
> brake booster line to operate the
Call Rusty and ask ---
On 6/27/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jim, do you know if the 9 blade fan will fit the stock 123 clutch?
No clue, sorry.
-- Jim
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
S
Jim, do you know if the 9 blade fan will fit the stock 123 clutch?
No clue, sorry.
-- Jim
I have a vacuum pump and guages, power and a driveway to use but
very little experience with the new fangled "freezy kids stuff"
Just dive right in and get some!
http://cathey.dogear.com/efair.html &
http://cathey.dogear.com/cwair.html
You will have fun. I recommend a good generic book o
Uh yes, as I was attempting to pontificate...I'm trying to figure out
the
best way to tap into the cans. They're much wider and squatter than
your
regular freon can, so my tap won't apparently work. I don't want to
buy an
expensive stove, just to canniballize and use for my illicit purposes.
system? I'm not getting enough vacuum from the check valve tap on the
brake booster line to operate the other vacuum accessories reliably.
The only thing on the booster's tap is the brown line for the engine
shutoff. Everything else comes off the secondary vacuum output line
on the vacuum pum
Brian Smyla wrote:
Can anyone point me to a site with information about the 300SDL vacuum
system? I'm not getting enough vacuum from the check valve tap on the
brake booster line to operate the other vacuum accessories reliably. All
the service manuals I've been able to locate for the car are
Tried to take a picture for you, but I can barely see it with the
radiator hose in the way.
Yes - there are two ports - one for the booster, the other for the
accessories. Mine (300SDL) wouldn't hold vacuum, and took quite awhile
to "generate" vacuum after starting in the AM. I thought it might be
Ah - but once you've figured out what has to be done, be sure to
report back - adding that bit of knowledge to the collection ---
It's a pain to be the first ---
The best source(s) are the
people on this list who have done the procedures before.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans w
Can anyone point me to a site with information about the 300SDL vacuum
system? I'm not getting enough vacuum from the check valve tap on the
brake booster line to operate the other vacuum accessories reliably. All
the service manuals I've been able to locate for the car are JUNK. Are
there supp
I HATE MOWERS/MOWING.
On 6/27/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
M1 15W50 has greatly reduced the oil consumption in my B&S Quantum
"new" mower (now six or more years old). Runs like a champ, I change
it every year or so...
Peter
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will a
I don't remember if you've checked already, but what's the
compression? Getting air into the cylinders? Sounds like you have
fuel, what else can it be?
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchi
I'm only driving 45 - 50 miles per day, about 50% interstate, and at
10,000 miles the soot was 0.5%. Mobile 15w50, Oklahoma ---
On 6/27/06, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Yup, 90 miles a day. Analysis at ~5000 miles showed soot at .6% but grade had
fallen to 40. I think I was sloppy an
(MB content) I was able to use my basic (student) 301 to measure and
verify the output pulse from the distributor sensor on the 117.985.
On 6/27/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
archer wrote:
> What would one of the old tube type in good working condition be worth? I
> have one but
It's been too long - I'm going to have to rent it ---
On 6/27/06, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What about the 'vette splitting in half? "Did you know there was a hole there?"
The old guys in the Mercedes are great.
"Please drive at a rate befitting our age and status in life"
Sorry to be a pest about this issue - I have one more question.
To remove and reinstall the fuel injection pump of a 606 looks like almost
exactly the same procedure as doing it to a 603. So, to all you 2.5D owners
who have done it - How important is the FI pump locking pin (not to be
confused w
ned kleinhenz wrote:
Can the vacuum pump cam be replaced by just locking the FI pump shaft and
backing out the left hand thread bolt in the center of the cam?
Not according to the manual! They are not always correct though.
Marshall
Thanks Marshall:
I'm not sure if you meant that comment
[why the hell do I do that? I sent that out before I was done
composing--idiot!]
Uh yes, as I was attempting to pontificate...I'm trying to figure out the
best way to tap into the cans. They're much wider and squatter than your
regular freon can, so my tap won't apparently work. I don't want t
Ok, went back to the outdoor store and bought up their supply of
isobutane/propane mixtures (4 cans), but I still need to figure out the best
way to
On 6/27/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I am using autofrost, works great. You have to have a license to buy it
though. Forget
The '95 E300D (OM606).
At 09:51 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:
What car are we talking about here?
J.B. Hebert wrote:
> On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was
> fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
> out. A few miles later I noticed that my
I forgot, is this the E300?
Do those things have piston cooling jets?
Seems like 1995 was not a turbo year.
If a cooling jet fell off, I wonder how much
oil pressure would escape from the hole?
Another possibility (on any engine) is loss of
an oil galley plug. Happened to my Dad's 1973
Ford P/U,
I am using autofrost, works great. You have to have a license to buy it
though. Forget doing any AC work unless you have a vacuum pump and
guages at the min.
Curt Raymond wrote:
Has anybody ever gotten a shop to use one of the alternate refridgerants? I'd
like to use Autofrost but don't ha
could be a sending unit problem
J.B. Hebert wrote:
Grrr... totally forgot to mention the car is a '95 E300D with 214,000
miles running on M1 5W40.
At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:
On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was
fine, so I continued on another minute
What car are we talking about here?
J.B. Hebert wrote:
On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
out. A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to
fall. When it dipped below .5 bar,
Original Message
Subject:Re: [MBZ] 1985 300CD Seat locking problem solved, sort of...
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 13:36:47 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
References:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<[EMAIL PROTE
Original Message
Subject:Re: [MBZ] 1985 300CD Seat locking problem solved, sort of...
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 13:09:28 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
References:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<[EMAIL PROTE
Original Message
Subject: 9 blade fan
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 09:47:18 -0500
From: P. D. Ferguson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I see Rusty has a 9 blade plastic radiator fan
available
for the 123s. Has anyone tried one
Got home late tonight, so I didn't have time to put it up on ramps
and check the sender and gauge. However, I did pull the new filter
out and it was, unfortunately, fine. The stem O-rings were intact
and pliable, and the top and bottom filter gaskets were in
place. The oil canister was clean
ned kleinhenz wrote:
Can the vacuum pump cam be replaced by just locking the FI pump shaft and
backing out the left hand thread bolt in the center of the cam?
Not according to the manual! They are not always correct though.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
Hmmm... that's either a bad sign for me, or a possible ground issue...
The search continues.
Thanks,
J.B.
At 05:53 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestion. Am I correct in assuming that the low oil
> light and the oil pressure gauge are on separate circuits?
Yes, completely un
Hi, Curt et al.
I have a vacuum pump and guages, power and a driveway to use but very little
experience with the new fangled "freezy kids stuff"
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Deez Doze An' Dat Diesulz
-
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million so
Rusty is sending me a new injection timing device for my 606 engine because
the vacuum pump cam of the old one is in bad shape.
I've been fretting over the special tools and procedures needed to R&R the
injection pump as the shop manual says is requred to replace the injection
timing device.
But t
Just as long as it doesn't sound like a late-'70's Datsun Z-car. Man, those
fans sounded like a jet taking off...whaash
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg E
Jim, do you know if the 9 blade fan will fit the stock 123
clutch?
Peter
- Original Message -
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 9 blade fan
You can use a regular R12 can tap clamped to the side of the
can, or do what I did and sacrifice a Goodwill camp stove to
get the proper tap fitting. Hose clamps and a bit of fuel
line rounds out the tool. Then you can put away a partial
can if you want.
-- Jim
Ok, so I stopped by the local outdoor store, but became confused by the
dizzying array of propane/butane/isobutane etc. and beat a hasty
retreat
back into my car and a thumb-sucking fetal position. I thought I
wanted
straight isobutane, which they don't carry.
No, it's all a mix. IsoPro is
Curt posted, in part:
> Last month at camp Dad and I were getting out the lawnmower so we could
mow where we were planning to plant trees>>
If you are going to complete with Van Cleef with tales of your youth, or
maybe last week, you are going to have to become much more verbose. H
M1 15W50 has greatly reduced the oil consumption in my B&S Quantum
"new" mower (now six or more years old). Runs like a champ, I change
it every year or so...
Peter
I see Rusty offers a 9 blade plastic radiator fan for
the
123s, compared to the stock 6 blade aluminum one. Has anyone tried
the 9
blade one to see if it offers any noticeable cooling improvement? Is
it
noisier?
It's quieter. The SDL was forcibly upgraded when it got its n
Ok, so I stopped by the local outdoor store, but became confused by the
dizzying array of propane/butane/isobutane etc. and beat a hasty retreat
back into my car and a thumb-sucking fetal position. I thought I wanted
straight isobutane, which they don't carry. There were some mixtures of all
thr
Curt Raymond wrote:
>
> Has anybody ever gotten a shop to use one of the alternate refridgerants?
If I owned the shop, and I was set up for R12 reclaiming (I'd have to be
in order to do R12->134a conversions) I'd suck out your R12 and replace it
with whatever you wanted if you provided me with t
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