When I had four family Beetles, I bought a Beetle hub, replaced the
bearing grease with light oil, left out the seal, chucked the hub in a vice,
mounted a tire that needed balancing. gave the wheel a slow spin, and did
something else while it was finding the heavy spot. Then I put a weight
I second surpluscenter
allelectronics.com sometimes has them as well.
I'd honestly call viking though, worst case they tell you it's NLA.
Walt
On Tue, Mar 6, 2012 at 10:08 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
grainger.com
Surpluscenter.com
One of the blower motors in the Viking
If you aren't using private browsing to hide your more delicate
searches, I don't know what to say.
-Rolf
On 3/1/2012 1:26 PM, Greg Fiorentino wrote:
I'm sure many of you geeks are already aware of this:
http://www.digitaljournal.com/article/320137#ixzz1nissqAwZ
Greg
I want to say the only conversion I have seen with with the 602...
-Rolf
On 3/6/2012 10:33 PM, OK Don wrote:
When I measured the 603 in my SDL, and the engine compartment of the SLC
(with the engine out), I figured the 603 would fit. YMMV.
On Tue, Mar 6, 2012 at 9:08 PM,
I acquired a coats computer spin balancer. Just tried it out and it
works
great, fast and easy. I already had a tire machine
Last auction I went to had two Coats tire machines and a Mays.
The Mays was physically smaller, older, and might have been
able to do larger tires. (Unimog?) The
I would choose a 602 turbo. (unless I had the 603) However if a 602
fits, a 603 will fit. both are the same height, and that is the
constraint. The engine bay is long enough to hold the dual cam 6
cyl gasser, so the length of the 603 will fit.
I want to say the only conversion I have
Actually what I think they will tell me is it's $250.
AO Smith stock number 30 or 31 looks like it would work. It's slightly higher
current draw but otherwise same specs.
http://www.emotorpro.com/1-25-hp-115-volt-1550-rpm-a-o-smith-blower-motor-31.aspx
How is rotation specified? From the
This balances the wheel as a 2-dimensional disc. The real spin
balancers also balance axially, e.g. you might need weight on the
inside or outside of the rim. Beetle tires were really narrow as I
recall; with today's wide profile tires I think that is more important
than it used to be.
On Wed,
While electric motors are standardized on NEMA standards, things like mounting
can be very unique.
In a situation like this you're best to contact Viking and see what they have
available.
After all, you're still way ahead of the curve as far as what the stuff cost
you versus buying it new or
The single 400w block heater works dandy at -20F on a 616 engine, I expect a
60x would be fine at -40F.
If it wasn't you could go to the Fairbanks Package which includes a battery
heater and coolant heater. I think the coolant heater is 1000w, the battery
heater isn't that much but at that
I saw a huge Vulcan at the university surplus Monday, it was the grungiest thing
I've ever seen. 10 or 12 huge burners in two rows, two ovens or warming boxes
below, no hood. They wanted $300 for it. Tuesday was public sale day (it's
reserved for University employees most of the week), and it
Hmmm. Tech university, so should have access to 00 cables. 100 year old homes
with screw in fuses. Wonder how well the boys are able to pull wire from a
plug to the street 100 feet away
clay
On Mar 7, 2012, at 7:47 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
The single 400w block heater works dandy at -20F
On 06/03/2012 8:53 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
One of the blower motors in the Viking range hood is dead. It is made
by Emerson, model F33CYBFD2225.
I can't find this exact model listed online. Anyone know of a good
source for compatible replacements? Specs are 1/25 HP, 1550 RPM, 1.7A,
115 V, 3
On Wed, Mar 7, 2012, at 11:53 AM, Randy Bennell wrote:
Any chance it is repairable?
Electric motor shop might fix the one you have.
Might not be any less expensive than a new one but if there is anything
unique about mounting etc, then it might be worth looking into.
Mounting does not look
On Mar 7, 2012 5:53 AM, Dieselhead
The engine bay is long enough to
hold the dual cam 6 cyl gasser, so the
length of the 603 will fit.
The M110 was a tight squeeze front-to-back in my Euro 280SLC. Not really
an optimal situation for maintenance.
As long as we're dreaming about soft-top
Try a hair dryer if it's a metal squirrel cage, sometimes it just
needs a little heat.
Walt
On Wed, Mar 7, 2012 at 1:12 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
On Wed, Mar 7, 2012, at 11:53 AM, Randy Bennell wrote:
Any chance it is repairable?
Electric motor shop might fix the one you
Do you mean using Ixquick.com instead of Google? If not, how
do you do private browsing?
Thanks,
Gerry (not a computer pro)
From: Rolf r...@winmutt.com
If you aren't using private browsing to hide your more delicate
searches, I don't know what to say.
-Rolf
On 3/1/2012 1:26 PM, Greg
I not only enjoy innovation, I enjoy hearing about it, too.
ATTABOY!
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 2:41 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I acquired a tire balancer
When
I suspect if they plugged in the standard block heater as soon as they got home
it'd keep the engine warm enough to start. Heating it from -40F might be a
stretch...
IIRC Webasto makes a diesel fired heater that can be activated from a keyfob.
I've often thought thats the absolute best
2nd attempt at posting this:
Has anyone on the list used Lubro Moly Valve Clean in their W123 diesel?
Before replacing the injectors in #4 5 cylinders, as these were the ones
which showed low compression in the compression test which was an attempt to
get to the cause of the serious
Hi All,
Is it possible for glow plugs to ohm out okay and still be bad?
Perhaps shorted by carbon or something?
Rick
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list
Does anyone have any tips or tricks to share on changing oil cooler lines
and motor mounts on a W123? That is tomorrows project.
Thanks In Advance,
Rick
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to
Soak the fittings overnight in penetrating oil to make the lines easier to
crack.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-Original Message-
From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 13:59:43
To: Mercedes Discussion
It's been a long time since I've done this job (thank goodness!) but I do
recall getting a crows foot 22mm (?) wrench, as the clearance for the line
fittings is really small. And be really, really careful on the oil cooler
fittings, as they are really easy to cross thread and munge up.
Don't
Use two wrenches on the cooler lines. One to turn the nut and the other to hold
the fitting on the filter housing or especially radiator steady. Situate the
wrenches so that you can loosen the nut by squeezing the two wrenches together,
then you won't put any twisting action on the fitting that
Hit a deerneed a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for my 83 300d.
Anyone have one for sale? How about you Rusty? How much for a new one?
Thanks, Mike
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
Yes, (rare) and it is also possible they are not getting juice from
the relay/bad fuse.
Hi All,
Is it possible for glow plugs to ohm out okay and still be bad?
Perhaps shorted by carbon or something?
Rick
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used
Is that all - just a headlight? You were lucky. My deer in '96 took out,
LF headlight, fender and door, plus significant damage to hood on my '91
350SDL.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent:
Yep, just the glass. Got real lucky. We were going slow.
Mike
On Mar 7, 2012 8:31 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:
Is that all - just a headlight? You were lucky. My deer in '96 took
out, LF headlight, fender and door, plus significant damage to hood on my
'91 350SDL.
Wilton
-
Pretty cool marketing stunt.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIGzpi9lCckfeature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIGzpi9lCckfeature=related
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
Start soaking the nuts at the oil cooler
yesterday or the day before. If you can clean
off any external oil, and are brave, a short
application of flame wrench on the nuts maybe the
trick that is needed to prevent ruining the oil
cooler.
One other trick is to saw off the ferrules, and
Rick Knoble wrote:
Is it possible for glow plugs to ohm out okay and still be bad?
Perhaps shorted by carbon or something?
Yes. But a typical ohm meter is not very accurate at those
ranges. Much better is to measure the current flow.
I use an old-fashioned automotive ammeter. The ones that
I fought with the thing for nearly 3 hours with no success! I got the bolts
loose, tried to move the adjustor bolt with the teeth that slide the bracket to
tighten it, but can’t figure out the proper technique to get it tighter. It
seems looser ow! What am I doing wrong? Is there a proper
At 05:18 PM 3/7/2012, Mitch Haley wrote:
Use two wrenches on the cooler lines. One to turn the nut and the
other to hold the fitting on the filter housing or especially
radiator steady. Situate the wrenches so that you can loosen the nut
by squeezing the two wrenches together, then you won't
That's what happened on my 82 SD as well. It was the lower fitting and it was
goobered up when I took it off.
I wrapped a few feet of teflon tape around it and it finally stopped leaking.
Dan
On Mar 7, 2012, at 9:41 PM, David Kristin Gilmore wrote:
At 05:18 PM 3/7/2012, Mitch Haley
Sunday morn we took my 78 240D to breakfast, then ran home for a minute. As it
was cold out I left the car running while I ran into the house. When I got back
to the car maybe two minutes later the temp gauge was not quite pegged but
definetly sitting at nearly the top of the swing. I ran it to
I fought with the thing for nearly 3 hours with no success! I got the
bolts loose, tried to move the adjustor bolt with the teeth that slide
the bracket to tighten it, but can’t figure out the proper technique
to get it tighter. It seems looser ow! What am I doing wrong? Is
there a proper
If the plug is bad, the current will be less.
Or more! I've seen that too.
It is very rare for the plug to ohm out right yet
not work right, due to the way it's constructed.
It's either open-circuit, or possibly partially
shorted inside so that the heat doesn't go all
the way out at the tip.
Thermostats fail far more often than water pumps.
They're cheaper and easier to replace, too.
Using an IR thermometer on the head is the first
test, though, it'll tell you if the gauge is lying
or not.
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used
Thermostat. Get one from rusty or stealer. No flaps crap.
Sunday morn we took my 78 240D to breakfast, then ran home for a
minute. As it was cold out I left the car running while I ran into
the house. When I got back to the car maybe two minutes later the
temp gauge was not quite pegged
Curt.
Use the IR thermometer that I gave you!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred
On 3/7/2012 10:02 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
Thermostats fail far more often than water pumps.
They're cheaper and easier to replace, too.
Using an IR thermometer on the head is the first
test, though, it'll tell you
I'm finally over that #$%@ cold that sidelined me for about a month and the
day was warm, so I went back to work on my floor heat problem. It was
completely frustrating.
I've given up fixing this @#$% thing. It's so cramped in there I don't see
any way to even glue it without removing the
I used ATF/acetone on the fittings the day before I did mine, and the
fittings were undamaged. Counterholding the fittings as has been
describe is very important.
Getting the hard lines out is a bit tedious. I don't recall exactly
what worked.
Allan
Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com writes:
The reason the oil cooler lines strip is that everyone over tightens
them. IIRC its only 18ftlb or less. Last time I did it I got it snug and
gave it a little more.
On 3/7/2012 4:59 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
Does anyone have any tips or tricks to share on changing oil cooler lines
and motor
PS you will need to make one of the wrenches on the cooler lines
thinner. 22mm IIRC
On 3/7/2012 11:32 PM, Rolf wrote:
The reason the oil cooler lines strip is that everyone over tightens
them. IIRC its only 18ftlb or less. Last time I did it I got it snug
and gave it a little more.
On
We've had a mouse invasion recently. Mostly in the garage, but I saw
one in the basement last week. I set a trap (snap-type, baited with
peanut butter), and it was empty for a few days. Today I went to check
it and it had caught TWO mice at the same time. Never known mice to
dine in pairs
mousey suicide pact?
clay
On Mar 7, 2012, at 8:32 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
We've had a mouse invasion recently. Mostly in the garage, but I saw
one in the basement last week. I set a trap (snap-type, baited with
peanut butter), and it was empty for a few days. Today I went to check
it and
Nah they were going dutch.
-Rolf
On 3/7/2012 11:37 PM, clay monroe wrote:
mousey suicide pact?
clay
On Mar 7, 2012, at 8:32 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
We've had a mouse invasion recently. Mostly in the garage, but I saw
one in the basement last week. I set a trap (snap-type, baited with
Most likely culprit, cracked oil supply line.
-Rolf
On 3/4/2012 12:25 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
Daughter reports that the SDL is consuming oil rapidly, and oil is
dripping on the passenger side near the rear of the engine. The
engine is also smoking more than normal.
Turbo seals?
Turbo drain
Well, therein lies the problem. I only see two bolts, the toothy one at
the top and a pivot bolt at the bottom, both currently loose. Where would
the third bolt be? Does it come in from the front with a nut on the
backside like the other two? It's been a while since I've dealt with one of
Rick -
A couple of ideas. As has been mentioned the oil cooler line nuts screwing
onto the oil cooler fittings can sometimes seize and gall the threads on the
cooler fitting when you try to remove them. If the nut feels like it is
starting to gall stop and whip out your trusty Dremel tool with one
Curt -
I'm guessing a quick check of the gage would be to have someone watch the
instrument cluster and pull the connector off of the temperature gage, note
the gage reaction and then ground the gage connector and see if the gage
swings the opposite direction. You can do this with a cold engine
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