Best thing I've found for rust so far is Marine Penetrol. It is intended for
use in rustproofing ballast tanks on ship, will penetrate heavy scale, drive
out moisture, and can be coated with anything you
like. It's also cheap, and better than the POR I used to use. Turns metal black
just like
Loren wrote:
Same people who used to buy the Shovey Monte carlos with 6 feet of
tunnel between the radiator and the front of the engine, and think it
was a fine piece of Automotive engineering while I was lusting for a
300TD.
Loren:
Our friend Doug Havlik loves those. He has one he's
Loren wrote:
I never said Dougie was not nuts. Yeah, I know he has a thing for
that Detroit iron. But then he was into Brit cars too, Esp
Lotus. I like to think his tastes matured late. He ran his 201 like
crazy. Now he really likes his 126.
Was a Lotus DEALER until lack of sales and
Various folks wrote:
One thing I've noticed, is that a Mercedes that's accurately described and
fairly priced tends to sell quickly. If you ever see one on the market for
months, or continually being re-listed, it's either overpriced or
something is wrong that has not been disclosed.
Allan
Thanks, Rusty. I don't suppose there's any chance I can just buy the adjuster
nut, is there?
Dan
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My brother has a '42 International KB7 5-ton stake bed that he uses almost
daily for various chores, including pulling a rolling chassis of a
semitractor a few hunderd miles, and hauling everything from rock to antique
machinery. It was slathered with flat white latex house paint
decades ago
Flat bed trucker!
On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 7:26 AM, theprofil...@dwx.com
theprofil...@dwx.com wrote:
my
brother looks like Pa Joad after a rough day (gets a haircut every couple
years,
shaves maybe once a week, greasy overalls, jack-shirts that
look like they've been run through a limb
Uh, Andrew, that's in Hull, Mass., not atlanta. Rustbucket region, right on the
coast, salt air as well as salted roads. For 12 grand? Run away!
Dan
Former MA resident
I am intrigued by this W111 coupe that has failed to sell despite 3 months
of posting on ebay. My better instincts say to
Andrew wrote:
I would rather deal with finite rust
There is no such thing as finite rust. Rust is infinite. Rust never sleeps.
by the time you can see it--and WAY before the time a panel gets as bubbly as
the one shown in the ad--its progressed a good long way into the structure and
only
Max: Yeah, that's why my indy avoided heat altogether. Cut the bar with a
cutoff wheel (Very hard, took forever), then installed his version of the
collar with SET SCREWS that fit into flats ground in the torsion bar and JB
Weld.
It sounds like bubble gum and baling wire, but was very neatly
Loren:
I was amazed, but that was all it took. Let us know if you get similar results.
The same service also solved a slightly late 1-2 upshift, and a slight 2-3
flare. Who
knew? Trans has been shifting perfectly and consistently for 45k miles of
mostly highway driving since.
One of the
.
Pmail me if you're interested:
theprofil...@dwx.com
Dan
82 300SD, 334k miles, Des Moines
--- Original Message ---
From: mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com[mailto:mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com]
Sent: 8/30/2010 1:35:55 AM
To : mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc :
Subject : RE
A fluid change and filter clean can make a huge difference. in My 82 300sd, it
eliminated flare on the 2-3 shift, and solved the problem of random downshifts
into 3rd when
cruising.DONT get the flush, get the drain, refil, and filter clean. There is
a difference. If the air works at all, and
Randy:
SDs are wonderful cars, and mine has been the only car among dozens I've owned
to inspire me to keep it going past the point where it may be the least
expensive option. Compared to
the NAs, they are fast and fun with a turbo surge that comes on and gives you
a little more thrust than
Yep--my swaybar broke. Damn near no way to tell until it does, aside from
disassembly. Got mine fixed for $650--my indy cut the rusted end off, and
installed a new end that fit like a
collar over the cut-off end of the sway bar. Installed it with set screws into
machined flats on the bar, and
I had an 86 626, with the 90 hp 2 liter gas engine, and it was a great
car--roomy, handled well, very reliable, 30 mpg @70. 66 hp would be pretty
doggy by comparison, or
probably about like 52 in a diesel Jetta, which I also had. But for the
mileage, room, and overall design and build
E wrote:
but hey, here i am responding to a random voice on the 'net who hides
behind an alias, and doesn't even stand behind what he's saying enough
to put his name on it. what was i thinking?!
E:
Dieselhead is Loren Faeth, of Ames, Iowa, a long-time member of this list. I
don't know why
My first car was a '67 R-10. 46 hp. top speed of 83 (@ 5600 rpm--yikes!).
Extremely
simple, just a slightly larger and boxier dauphine. Nice ride and quite
comfortable and
roomy for its size, quirky handling (virtually no weight on the front end).
Nice little
free-revving 1100 cc
In my 300SD, low-speed vibes were the result of a torn rubber bushing around
the driveshaft
center bearing, sometimes called a carrier bearing. twice, a new bearing assy
(cheap from
rusty) solved the problem. MARK THE DRIVESHAFT before you split it to replace
the bearing--not
doing so means
Kaleb: Thanks, but she wants something a bit bigger, and we'd need something
with a title. Appreciate knowing what
you've got, though.
Thanks again.
Dan
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I have now replaced three lifetime warrented NAPA alternators in 60k miles. All
installed correctly.
I'm getting pretty sick of replacing them, even though it costs me nothing but
an hour of getting
greasy. Next time, Rusty. (I started this cycle before I joined the list and
knew of Rusty.)
My 300SD, 319k miles with a complete brake job ca 40k highway miles ago has
just started making
a slight click sound when brakes are applied. I can just barely feel it in
the pedal, just
when the brakes start grabbing, even gently. It seems to be coming from the RF.
Any guesses?
Dan
82
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