On Sat, 17 Feb 2007, Loren Faeth wrote:
One way is to add some algicide/water dispersant, except for Herr Booth
whos cars never sit long enough to collect condensation. We were, however
originally talking about a car that has set inactive for years.
I dunno how long this sat for before I
One way is to add some algicide/water dispersant, except for Herr Booth
whos cars never sit long enough to collect condensation. We were, however
originally talking about a car that has set inactive for years.
At 07:24 PM 2/16/2007, you wrote:
On Fri, 16 Feb 2007, Marshall Booth wrote:
Loren Faeth wrote:
One way is to add some algicide/water dispersant, except for Herr Booth
whos cars never sit long enough to collect condensation. We were, however
originally talking about a car that has set inactive for years.
I would certainly suggest a water sequestering agent in fuel
And buy several filters -- likely you will shake all sorts of crud
loose and they will plug several times until you get it all out.
Watch for a plugging tank screed, too -- quite likely if there is algae
in there. Once it's dead, it will plug the screen as it peels of the
tank bottom.
Peter Frederick wrote:
And buy several filters -- likely you will shake all sorts of crud
loose and they will plug several times until you get it all out.
Watch for a plugging tank screed, too -- quite likely if there is algae
in there. Once it's dead, it will plug the screen as it peels of
Marshall Booth wrote:
I would certainly suggest a water sequestering agent in fuel that's been
setting for months or years. Once the water is bound, the algae dies and
there's no need for a separate algaecide (or you can drain the fuel -
that's the most complex, but safest solution).
Old
Loren Faeth wrote:
I forgot to mention, as with any diesel where a tank of fuel sits over one
or more summers, there is a very high probability of algae in the
tank. Before you crank it, put the shock treatment of algicide (Stanadyne
or equivalent) in the tank and mix it in the best you can.
Pour in a bit of ethanol and get them drunk, then they will just want to
drink more and not eat your fuel. At least that's how it works for me.
--R (going now for another homebrew)
Marshall Booth wrote:
You NEVER need to use an algaecide as long as you remove ALL water from
the fuel tank
On Fri, 16 Feb 2007, Marshall Booth wrote:
You NEVER need to use an algaecide as long as you remove ALL water from
the fuel tank several times a year and buy quality fuel. Algae can't
live unless there is water in the tank. They live in the water - they
EAT the fuel.
How do you empty the
Rich Thomas wrote:
Pour in a bit of ethanol and get them drunk, then they will just want to
drink more and not eat your fuel. At least that's how it works for me.
Ethanol (and other alcohols) sequester water - no water - bugs die and
can't make more bugs!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
John W. Reames III wrote:
On Fri, 16 Feb 2007, Marshall Booth wrote:
You NEVER need to use an algaecide as long as you remove ALL water from
the fuel tank several times a year and buy quality fuel. Algae can't
live unless there is water in the tank. They live in the water - they
EAT the
Thanks for all the tips, guys. I didn't get a chance to work on it
yesterday, but should be able to get to it in the coming week. I'm
hopeful that it won't have any problems with algae. The car has been in
climate controlled storage all this time; last spring I revived an '83
300D that had
I'm going to attempt to resurrect a '65 190Dc in the next week or so.
The car is unbelievably clean and all original but hasn't been run in
many years. I'm not familiar with these older diesels and have only
looked at the car for about five minutes so far but have confirmed that
the glow
is this at the museum?
tom savage wrote:
I'm going to attempt to resurrect a '65 190Dc in the next week or so.
The car is unbelievably clean and all original but hasn't been run in
many years. I'm not familiar with these older diesels and have only
looked at the car for about five minutes so
Best way to check the GP is with a volt meter with the knob pulled out
to glow position. There is no fuse. Most likely you have an open GP
somewhere, or the ground wire is corroded off (at #1). There are two
resistor links, the zigzag ones that get hot when the GP are working,
so be
Peter Frederick wrote:
Best way to check the GP is with a volt meter with the knob pulled out
to glow position. There is no fuse. Most likely you have an open GP
somewhere, or the ground wire is corroded off (at #1). There are two
resistor links, the zigzag ones that get hot when the GP are
So... how to test series plugs? Pull them and check
resistance/brokenness individually? Or as an easier alternative, maybe
check volatage to ground along the glow string with the knob pulled
out,
and look for voltage to drop to zero at the bad plug/resistor wire?
You initially probe between
Yep, what they said. Other than the series plugs, it is for all practical
maintenance purposes, the same as an OM616 The 190Dc is a 3 main
crank. What's that? 621.912? I forget. The 200D engine is a 5 main. I
think that is 621.915. Valve clearances, as Peter and Marshall said, are
the
I forgot to mention, as with any diesel where a tank of fuel sits over one
or more summers, there is a very high probability of algae in the
tank. Before you crank it, put the shock treatment of algicide (Stanadyne
or equivalent) in the tank and mix it in the best you can. Have a spare
fuel
Please file regular progress reports so the list can second guess you, er, I
mean offer trenchant and helpful advice/observations.
On 2/16/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I forgot to mention, as with any diesel where a tank of fuel sits over one
or more summers, there is a very high
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