Buy another one and put it on the shelf to ensure this one lasts forever.
Curt
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 4:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via
Mercedes wrote: After going to Lowe’s last night, 2
farm stores, a hardware store today, and finally a 2nd Lowe’s I was finall
On Fri, 12 Feb 2021 20:36:56 + (UTC) Max Dillon via Mercedes
wrote:
> Put some duct tape on the breaker to keep it closed. This is the
> rental house right?
For breakers which are built correctly, that won't work. The internal
mechanism trips and then moves the external handle.
> Feb 11,
After going to Lowe’s last night, 2 farm stores, a hardware store today, and
finally a 2nd Lowe’s I was finally able to find a breaker. I finished
installing it a little while ago then cranked up the thermostat so the aux heat
would kick in. I let it run for about 20-30 minutes and it didn’t tri
If you were to plot the current draw vs. time on the resistance heater,
I bet it's quite a bit higher in the first few seconds and drops off as
the elements heat up.
Maybe put in a "slow trip" breaker designed for loads that have an
initial surge of current close to the limit, but then drop off. T
Put some duct tape on the breaker to keep it closed. This is the rental house
right?
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
Feb 11, 2021 5:56:52 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :
> And it’s tripped again. Basically if the aux heat runs for any amount of time
> it trips. I will shut down the system and swap
I’m confident out payback would have been 5-7 years at most. The original owner
cheaped out on the HVAC in the place, as it was really undersized. As a result
if was horribly inefficient and expensive. A lot of stratification between
floors, poor distribution, etc., all resulted in gas (heating)
What is your underground component? Drilled well?
We need to replace the boiler here, considering geothermal but at double the
price I'm not sure it's worth it.
Curt
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 1:37 PM, OK Don via Mercedes
wrote: Our total energy bill decreased
The regional differences are interesting, I've never lived anywhere that didn't
have hydronic heat. The apartment we lived in had natural gas but everywhere
else has been oil.Our new farmhouse is oil fired hot air. If I were going to
live in it in the winter I would explore converting to hydroni
Our total energy bill decreased enough to break even from the
installation/purchase expenses of the geothermal unit in a little under
seven years. We're saving money now. Love it.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 12:28 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> My HVAC guy in Indiana was
My HVAC guy in Indiana was insistent that I replace my poorly sized 80,000 BTU
gas furnace and 4 ton AC unit for a 4,000 SF house with geothermal. Up front
cost was around $11k but he was insistent my monthly energy bill would be $100
or less, regardless of the season and condition.
Had we stay
Geothermal will do a lot better than a regular heat pump. There is more
heat under the ground than in the air when temperatures are that cold.
I've never lived in a house that had anything other than a natural gas
furnace for primary heat.
Allan
OK Don via Mercedes writes:
> Our geothermal hea
Our geothermal heat pump has been doing fine so far - it's 12°F here now -
hasn't turned on the resistive strips yet. It's supposed to get to -7
Monday so that will be a real test. The house is a "modular home", code for
a gussy'd up double wide, 1600 sq. ft., and leaky.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:
Our wood stove is a Jotul 118 which is a big stove, it'll accept 24" wood.
It's in the basement which is usually considered a negative but our house is
small enough (just over 900sqft) that it heats the whole place pretty well
although the bedroom stays pretty cool. I set the oil burner thermos
We have a Jotul wood insert which is outstanding. Its been cold, under
freezing for a few days for the most part. I heat with my minisplits and
the wood insert, but the large 3 zone split stopped working earlier this
week. This meant we were running with one 12k split on one end of the
house and
If you're going to work on cars too, get one that can measure
DC current as well. My Fluke can measure glow plug current,
starter current...
Costs more.
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
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Made a trip to town to the local farm store, they of course were out of them.
Drove to the nearest Lowe’s 30 minutes away and of course they were out as
well. A different Lowe’s had them but I guess I will go there tomorrow.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:52 PM, Kaleb Striplin wr
I had a wood stove I put in our old Victorian in Melrose. I put it in a corner
in the kitchen in the back of the house and used the old cook stove chimney. It
was a cheap knockoff if a Vermont Castings stove i got at the building
materials surplus store for like $150.
There was a back stairway
Actually it does have an insert, with a blower etc and it will throw out a lot
of heat. I just hate messing with it.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:46 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
>
>
> A fireplace is about the least efficient device imaginable, most of the heat
> of the fire shoot
I have this one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cm610a-600a-t-rms-acdc-clamp-meter-64015.htmlWicked
handy, a million household uses. I bought it specifically to troubleshoot the
glowplug on the ASV. It proved that it at least draws current. It also helped
me find a bad connection in the solar a
A fireplace is about the least efficient device imaginable, most of the heat
of the fire shoots up the chimney. A small insert stove would dramatically
increase the heat output. It'd be cleaner too since it would have a door that
would be closed.
Wood is still a messy way to heat. I've had our
Hmmm, ok?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:23 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> If there's a Harbor Freight nearby pick up one of these.
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/cm200a-200a-fork-style-clamp-meter-64016.html
>
> I saw a review on YouTube compare to a similar Flu
If there's a Harbor Freight nearby pick up one of these.
https://www.harborfreight.com/cm200a-200a-fork-style-clamp-meter-64016.html
I saw a review on YouTube compare to a similar Fluke. Had slower
response time and build quality was not as robust, but was just as
accurate and thought to be a goo
I like heat pumps. If it comes down to it we also have a wood burning
fireplace. I never use it though as I hate the hassle of messing with it.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:12 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> The heat strips are fine, it’s more an issue of a heat pump
We hardly ever have to run the aux heat, except when real cold. It got up to
temp and they turned off but wiki probably kick on occasion.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:08 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> You should look into some propane backup heaters or something
Think I should just replace it or swap positions first? I am afraid if it is
the breaker and I go thru the hassle of moving it now the problem will be with
the outside unit or something. There are 3 60 amp breakers and all involve the
heat pump. One is aux heat, one is outside unit and one is in
The heat strips are fine, it’s more an issue of a heat pump not producing the
“hot” air people are often accustomed to with gas forced air. They’re not
terribly efficient, either, but that’s the drawback of having a heat pump.
I found it sort of weird with our Indiana house as it has a conventio
just put a bent piece of big wire in there until it warms up!
-_FT
On 2/11/21 6:03 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:
New breaker would be my first try. They do get weak. If the problem
persists then diagnose further.
Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes writes:
It is in the 20's today and will be
You should look into some propane backup heaters or something to tie
into your heat pump system. A friend has a heat pump and some sort of
propane system in her house, she is always complaining about having to
run the propane heater but I told her it was better than the electric
heat strips.
New breaker would be my first try. They do get weak. If the problem
persists then diagnose further.
Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes writes:
> It is in the 20's today and will be into the single digits this week.
> One thing I have noticed for quite a while is every now and then the
> breaker for
And it’s tripped again. Basically if the aux heat runs for any amount of time
it trips. I will shut down the system and swap a couple of breakers around and
see what happens.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 11, 2021, at 4:54 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I guess I could go swap
I guess I could go swap a couple of breakers around in there and see if
the problem follows the breaker. I do not have a clamp on meter.
I could also see if I can get into the air handler.
On 2/11/2021 4:50 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
I would suspect the breaker before I would suspect
I would suspect the breaker before I would suspect the heat strips. Heat strips
don’t short typically, they fail open. Got a clamp on ammeter you can use to
check the current draw when they’re on? Then you would know for sure.
Might want to give the air handler a look to make sure there’s nothin
It is in the 20's today and will be into the single digits this week.
One thing I have noticed for quite a while is every now and then the
breaker for the aux heat will be tripped. I usually just reset it and
its fine but the aux heat does not have to run much as it has not been
that cold. W
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