> I have three Vivitar Series 1 lenses. The first a Mint 90-180 Flat
> Field, a 28-90 2.8-3.5 and a 70-210 3.5. The first I've used with
> great results to me with the limited experience that I have. The
> other two aren't tested enough to form an opinion. If someone has
> a knowledgable opinion a
Hi Ivan,
have a look at:
http://www.BDimitrov.de/kmp/extras/winder_LX/top.jpg
Try to carefully depress the pin "shutter release ( from camera )".
If you can't do that at all, there is a mechanical fault in the winder. The
possible movement is only a small one but there has to be one.
This part
Hi Peter,
- put the camera onto a tripot.
- glue a transparent tape ( TESA ) over the shutter window or remove the
screen and put it with as much care as possible to the film plane ( with the
correct side ).
- turn the lens to infinity.
- set the camera to "B", release and let the shutter stay op
David A. Mann wrote:
> You could use it to make the mid-day sun look like the "golden
> hour"...
But then it's a feature, not a bug ! ;-)
regards
Bernd
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vis
Brendan MacRae wrote:
> On shooting my first roll of color print film (800 max,
> indoors but with a
> preponderance of sunlight) and I don't notice any color shift
> at all. It
> looks like I lucked out and can use this lens for color after
> all.
When you shoot only print film, I suppose
Hi Steve,
you wrote:
> Now that makes perfect sense. I think you`re right that the
> rear element
> floats, because my K-mount specimen had a loose filter ring on it,
> Dean (my repairman) took it apart and told me to hold the front
> element group while he tightened some screws, and I don`t
>
Thanks for the info. That seems to be a good price. I'm always thinking
about selling it. Here in Germany it costs new from Pentax about 800 US$.
regards
Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:
> I sold it on EBay last week for $375 BIN to an American
> living in Japan. I
> described it, basically, as EX++
Hi,
there were several brand versions on the market. I own the Porst version.
For a few bucks a nice lens. I paid 60 US$ for mine and use it often instead
of my A50mm/1,2 because I mustn't pay so much attention as for the Pentax
one which is still almost mint.
regards
Mishka wrote:
> Revuenon
Hi Steve and all Vivitar users,
yes it's normal and due to the floating element. IIRC, the rear element is
the floating one. If you turn the focus ring, you can see that from a
specific point, the rear element is moving ( or was it the front element ?).
As it gets hold in normal position by sprin
Hi,
I think it's true, Perutz is part of AGFA.
In the past ( ten years agoe ) I used a lot of Perutz slide films because
they were cheaper than the original Agfa films.
I was then quite satisfied with the results.
A rumour said, that Perutz films were second quality ones from Agfa. As the
colou
Hi Steve and Paul,
but what about the lenses which are not build by Pentax itself but by third
party suppliers and then only labelled with Pentax ?
Can we rate them really as 'genuine' and have peace of conscience during
submission ?
;-)))
best regards
Bernd
> -Original Message-
> Fr
Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:
> when doesn't this happen ? Only if the sun is at your back.
about my statement:
>> But there is a disadvantage: It has big troubles with flare.
>> If there is a light source not even in the picture area
>> but nearby you get tremendous flare.
Hi Paul,
I meant: if
I wonder why there are no dark room lights available using LEDs.
Those give a very small spectrum of light. And with the meanwhile cheap
available high efficiency types it could be very bright. A used LED brake
'lamp' from a car should give a fine dark room light.
If the papers are not sensitive f
Hi,
I bought a defective Drive A at Ebay. I found the problem: the connection
between the battery contacts and the wires inside is done by a metal part
which is clamped inside the housing onto the inner side of the battery
contacts. The wires are soldered to the clamping metal part. At my drive t
Len Zedel wrote:
> Problem: Batteries inside were not 1/3 AA but rather 1/3 A! (Careful
> reading would have revealed this fact). This subtle
> distinction was lost
> on me after the thread of ni-cd versus ni-mh of a couple of weeks ago
> through which I was sure reference was made to 1/3AA.
Hi,
I also rated it as a joke
But who knows! ;-)
Bob wrote:
> That was the Canadian 'Wheatfield Willy' making that claim
> about US nationals and Germans. I think he was joking, but
> those Canadians get crazy this time of year with the Hockey
> playoffs and the tundra thawing.
> It sou
Hi Boz and all,
it's not completely true that there is no insurance available at all.
I sent a parcel with a lens to an Australian PDML member. There was an
insurance available, but not for the complete way. IIRC it was insured up to
Australia. Inside Australia it was not insured. But I selected
Hi,
I wrote before:
> The POWER PACK M gives 25mA charge current. So the
> nominal charging time for a complete empty pack
> will be 110*1,4/25=6,16 = 6 hours 10 minutes.
> ( 1,4 is the typical effiency factor for NiCd charge
> calculation )
Sorry, it has to be:
The CHARGE PACK M ...
The POWER
Hi,
some comments:
the original cells ( 1/3AA 14x17mm, cost in Germany about 2 Euro each ) have
a capacity of 110 mAh. The POWER PACK M gives 25mA charge current. So the
nominal charging time for a complete empty pack will be 110*1,4/25=6,16 = 6
hours 10 minutes. ( 1,4 is the typical effiency fa
Can it be that you once did this before at a flash with fully charged
capacitor ?
Maybe discharged the capacitor through your exceptional body ?
;-))
regards
> << << And so I don't understand why cutting the TTL-wire
> would prevent the LX
> from
> >not firing the flash. >>
>
> Lethal We
Hi Cotty,
still some points:
> In practice, I flip my (Steve Larson inspired) switch, and set the power
> switch usually to MS-L. In bright ambient light at reasonable distance
> for, say a portrait, this allows the flash to fire and neatly fills in
> shadows in the eye sockets / under a base
Hi,
there is a company: Foto Haas, with several shops in hannover. For me the
best is: Georgstrasse 1 that's nearby ( 5..10 min. on foot ) the railway
station ( phone inside Germany 0511-164000 ). They have a lot of photo gear.
As I'm not interested in photo rucksacks, I don't know if they sell s
If the scratch is not very dead, try it with polishing paste like used for
cleaning / polishing metal parts or older cars. Do it several times until
the scratch is off or minimum lost its corners. Finally apply some paste,
let it dry and then do with a soft cloth a final polishing. Works very nice
not from me, but maybe interesting for enablers to be:
http://cgi.ebay.de/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1333615870
Bernd H.
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I'm asking me the same looking at a P67 + telelens.
Don't worry, you enabled guys !
;-))
> -Original Message-
> From: Mick Maguire [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 2:47 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Another kind of enablement ( LX big pack )
>
Hi,
I bought a new one for about 280 US$ during Christmas time. The price here
in Germany had fallen since summer from about 450 US$ to that low level.
I like it for the price and would recommend it. The colours are fine and
also the contrast ratio is OK for me.
But you have to be aware, that th
George de Fockert wrote:
> The winder ME-2 was designed for the ME-super and also worked
> for the ME.
> These had a mechanical activation of the shutter.
> The pin in the bottom of the ME-super actually moven the
> camera release
> button down.
>
> The super A has an electrical release, that
Hi Raimo,
but when the lens would be the reason for the cut off, why is the corona of
an unsharp light source not a circle ?
I would scan the test tomorrow and send it to you, so you quote yourself.
Interested ?
Can you read German ? Otherwise I would try to translate the chapter with
the expla
IIRC there's also a 1,0 NOCTILUX from Leica for the rangefinder cameras.
Bernd
Leonard Paris wrote:
> Not to my knowledge. Rangefinder lenses can be wider
> aperture than SLR
> lenses because there's no mirror box in the camera. F/1.0 is
> the fastest
> SLR lens I've heard about. It's made b
Hi Rob,
yes, you are right. I meant that this flange touches and finally scratches
the upper horicontal edge ( of the mirror box ) which defines the upper
limitation for the incoming light. This edge is lower at the LX than e.g. at
the K2. I even think the LX gives the smallest light passthrough
Hi,
try it with another lens !
The viewfinder tells you the result of the calculation regarding the
incoming light and the aperture simulation resistor. If the closed aperture
is not according to the resistor value, the LX will control a different
shutter speed, because the final shutter speed is
Hi,
I think the problem is the usage of the word contrast.
The intention is to control the relation between the brightness of the
room/background which is illuminated by bouncing the main flash. The
sub-flash enlightens the desired object in front of the camera. If the grey
filter is used at the
Hi,
the voltage of the flash capacitor in the old Metz 45CT1 is maximum 350-360
Volts. The sync. voltage can't be higher than that as it is derived from the
capacitors voltage. This is true for most of the older flashes.
The newer version 45CL1 ( L like Low sync voltage; there's an additional
thyr
Hi Dave,
pronunciation of Leica and Rollei:
> Leica. I always thought was Like-a but recently I heard Lee-ca
Like-a or more Leic-aa is correct
> Rollei. I recently heard Roll-EE pronounced Roll-I which
> seems to make
> sense from my recollection of high school german.
Roll-I is correct
Martin Trautmann wrote:
> Constant aperture is done by adjustment 'tricks' of the
> efficient aperture
> - the diaphragm blades can be closed for shorter focal lengths.
>
> In fact I don't know why this should be done. 28-70/3.5-4.0 should be
> superior to 28-70/4.0!?
I suppose one point is, t
Hi,
consider a lens with a slowly closing aperture or a 3rd party lens which has
a poor aperture simulation function. The LX will produce pictures with
correct amount of light ! A camera without OTF can't do that.
I had myself the bug with the slow aperture blades. The meter showed 1/60
but the
Hi,
why try to use a special name ? Tell them to do it. They will use a special
paper for the job.
But you could do it yourself by using a multigrade paper, normally at
highest grade ( 5 ).
I never tried it with a fixed grade 5 paper. Maybe the special behavior of
the multigrade paper handling co
Hi Richard,
I have to second most of the statements of the other german Pentaxers.
Martin Trautmann wrote:
...
> Freiburg is a less known, but interesting spot.
> Less means mainly Japanese tourists, while the Americans stick to
> Heidelberg ;-)
Maybe you should have a trip from Freiburg to KA
Hi Paul,
the two different contacts have its reason in the different ability of
delivering current between NiCads and batteries. IIRC, there is a low
resistance resistor in series at the NiCad contact, preventing the
transformer and the switching transistor for overload.
I repaired several flash
Hi,
be also careful with attaching such a lens on a LX !
Trying this, I marked the, just replaced, frame of the mirror box !
It seems that the protruding section is too big for the LX ( and the MZ7 ).
All my other bodies ( KX, K2, MX, ME Super, Super Program ) have no problems
with it.
Bernd
P
Ken Archer wrote:
> Just picked up an AF160 in mint condition with some other
> Pentax stuff. I
> checked Bojidar's site and saw reference to a 'dedicated
> flash'. What does
> that mean and how do I use this thing or is any good at all?
The AF 160 tells the cameras with the additional conta
Bill Kane wrote:
>I've got this flash for my Super Program, and lately it's
> been taking
> FOREVER to charge up to full power (somewhere along the lines
> of 60-120
> seconds) . . . is there any way to help this guy out? I gave it new
> batteries, but that hasn't worked.
The capacitors i
David P. Chernicoff wrote:
> Is there any way to determine if a Winder LX is functional
> without having an LX body handy?
have a look at
http://www.phred.org/pentax/k/FAQ/winder_LX/index.html
there are some pics to understand the following better.
1. rewind test:
Switch on the Winder.
Press a
Hello Donna Lynn,
have a look at
http://perso.club-internet.fr/jvila/mx_brochure.html
for the original brochure, to see what accessories were available.
bye
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