Here in Central Eastern Europe, Ilford is selling two cheaper films
called Ilford Pan 100 400. They are essentially the same as FP4+ and
HP5+, and I have heard many different accounts on why they sell them
here and cheaper as well (both HP and FP are sold too). In my and
others testing, the 400
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- Original Message -
From: Joseph Tainter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2005 4:10 PM
Subject: B/W Film Advice Needed
I need to photograph, in black-and-white, some landscapes in southeast Utah
with prehistoric ruins in them
Your experience with Microdol X is similar to my own. I used it for
quite a few years back in the seventies, mainly because it was
conveniently available pre-mixed g, but eventually realized it wasn't
giving me the kind of results I needed, particularly for car
photography. I eventually
On 7/11/05, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Glenn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If you're willing to bulk load, you can get 100ft rolls of Pan F under
the Arista brand name from Freestyle for $16.99 each.
Interesting. Where did you get this information?
--
Mark Roberts
Photography
I need to photograph, in black-and-white, some landscapes in southeast
Utah with prehistoric ruins in them. The vegetation will be mainly sage
(very pale green) and junipers (darker green). The last time I shot b/w
was about 5 years ago. I believe it was Tmax 400, and I found it
disappointing.
What format? 35mm or medium format?
Most of my BW film work in landscapes was done with ASA 100
films ... TMax 100 and Ilford Delta Pro 100 were my two favorites
when stopped using film on any regular basis. Shooting medium format,
ASA 400 works well but the ASA 100 films have better
Any High Speed film will be grainy, and 400 is a high speed film. I'd
use the slowest speed film I could find. That's likely to Plus X Pan,
I'd recommend Ilfords Pan F but I've found Plus X to have a nicer grain
structure.
Joseph Tainter wrote:
I need to photograph, in black-and-white,
:11
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: B/W Film Advice Needed
I need to photograph, in black-and-white, some landscapes in
southeast Utah with prehistoric ruins in them. The vegetation
will be mainly sage (very pale green) and junipers (darker
green). The last time I shot b/w was about 5
I prefer either Ilford Delta 100 or Kodak TMax 100 to Plus X.
Lewis
Any High Speed film will be grainy, and 400 is a high speed film. I'd use
the slowest speed film I could find. That's likely to Plus X Pan, I'd
recommend Ilfords Pan F but I've found Plus X to have a nicer grain
structure.
Hi Joe ...
There are way too many variables to consider besides film brand, speed, and
type. I've gotten finer grain and a smoother look from TX than with slower
films like Delta 100 and the Kodak Tmax 100. There's the question of which
developer will be used and how the film is actually
Thanks Shel for the URL below.
I was looking exactly for information about color filters.
Gasha
http://tinyurl.com/8oum4 or
http://www.schneideroptics.com/filters/filters_for_still_photography/black_;
_white/
Tiffen also makes some interesting filters that will help tame a scene
with
Shel's questions to me (and my answers embedded):
1) Will you be making darkroom prints directly from the negs?
I expect so, but I may have the negatives scanned too. I don't remember
whether my Nikon LS 2000 can scan b/w negatives. I know it won't scan Scala.
2) How large do you
- Original Message -
From: Joseph Tainter
Subject: B/W Film Advice Needed
So what do b/w shooters recommend for a low-grain landscape film with good
tonal range?
I don't like the T-Grain film at all, this includes Ilford Delta.
I don't like the look of the grain.
My first
On Jul 10, 2005, at 5:20 PM, Joseph Tainter wrote:
1) Will you be making darkroom prints directly from the negs?
I expect so, but I may have the negatives scanned too. I don't
remember whether my Nikon LS 2000 can scan b/w negatives. I know it
won't scan Scala.
I'm sure your LS2000
William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Joseph Tainter
Subject: B/W Film Advice Needed
So what do b/w shooters recommend for a low-grain landscape film with good
tonal range?
I don't like the T-Grain film at all, this includes Ilford Delta.
I don't like the look of the grain.
My first
On 7/10/05, William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
- Original Message -
From: Joseph Tainter
Subject: B/W Film Advice Needed
So what do b/w shooters recommend for a low-grain landscape film with good
tonal range?
I don't like the T-Grain film at all, this includes Ilford
On Jul 10, 2005, at 6:43 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:
A man after my own heart! I shoot Pan-F whenever I can. Microdol-X
seems
to keep the harshness in check.
My test bed for film and chemistry evaluation was Minox subminiature
format, where tiny changes in exposure and processing become
Interspersed
Shel
[Original Message]
From: Joseph Tainter
Shel's questions to me (and my answers embedded):
1) Will you be making darkroom prints directly from the negs?
I expect so, but I may have the negatives scanned too. I don't remember
whether my Nikon LS 2000 can scan b/w
I just bought another roll for use in the 6x6. May try to compare
it with Efke 25.
Shel
[Original Message]
From: William Robb
- Original Message -
From: Joseph Tainter
Subject: B/W Film Advice Needed
So what do b/w shooters recommend for a low-grain landscape film
- Original Message -
From: Godfrey DiGiorgi
Subject: Re: B/W Film Advice Needed
On Jul 10, 2005, at 6:43 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:
A man after my own heart! I shoot Pan-F whenever I can. Microdol-X seems
to keep the harshness in check.
My test bed for film and chemistry
On Jul 10, 2005, at 9:06 PM, William Robb wrote:
When I tested T-Max, I discovered that it has an almost straight
slope when processed in T-Max developer. I never did try it in X-Tol.
TMax developer never returned me any decent results at all. XTOL and
HC-110 worked well, XTOL the best.
On Jul 10, 2005, at 9:05 PM, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
Hi ... I tend to agree with you about the T-grain and Delta films.
Never
liked their grain nor the tonality. Conventional BW like PX, TX, and
others, always seem to deliver more pleasing results. I've played
with
Pan-F over the years
Plusses and minusses for the ME Super when shooting low light:
PLUS: I never had a problem with metering in bars with my ME Super, and
I shot a whole lotta stuff with it (usually with my SMC-M 50mm f1.4 wide
open at 1/30 or 1/60 on 400 ISO film).
MINUS: The LEDs are easy to see, but the
Thanks Aaron.One more thing to think about now.
Dave
(off to buy my first roll of Ilford Delta 3200 tomorrow)
Begin Original Message
From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 10:51:04 -0400
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Film advice needed
Plusses and minusses
Eduardo.
Thanks for that information.I'd like to add one more body to the
Lowepro but can't make up my mind.Right now is between
an ME of some sort,MZ5n,PZ-1p or LX. so your reply is helpful.
Decisons,desicions
I think i maay try some Kodak Select 1000 in the K1000 for the
beer tent shoot.
Dave
David,
As I said before, I haven't tested them all under such conditions.
Therefore, what I said about their capability to meter at dim light shoud
better be accepted with a grain of salt... :-)
You have mentioned (ME of some sort,MZ5n,PZ-1p or LX) four VERY different
cameras. Each one of them
.
- Original Message -
From: David J Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Film advice needed
Eduardo.I have a K1000 and i have trouble with low light metering
but i don't do a lot of it.I;m going to use it with the SF-1
Thanks, Tom.
I'll let you know what happens, even if the photos turn out to be completely
lame... :-)
I'm saying that it's probable that the camera can't turn the flash off in
time to avoid overexposure.
I think I'll go the distance and get two or three more rolls and see for
myself what
Hey, nevermind, I logged into my yahoo account, now all is okay.
Eduardo Carone Costa Júnior wrote:
This is the photo I mentioned;
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/eccarone/vwp?.dir=/Images+of+the+week.dnm=Nearby
+Bar.jpg.src=ph.view=t.hires=t
Do you believe that by setting the ISO down to 1600 I
Eduardo Carone Costa Júnior wrote:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/eccarone/vwp?.dir=/Images+of+the+week.dnm=Nearby
+Bar.jpg.src=ph.view=t.hires=t
It says You have reached a restricted area. Do I have to register as
a member or something?
If the file isn't too big (say, under 500k), you could
Aaron,
It was scanned, at low resolution, from a 4x6 print, on a cheap flatbed
scanner. The original has more detail, but not much.
Those points you mentioned are exactly the ones I wish were more detailed.
Unfortunately, I don't scan or print myself. Here in Brazil it's still less
expensive to
Eduardo Carone Costa Jr. wrote:
Those points you mentioned are exactly the ones I wish were more detailed.
Unfortunately, I don't scan or print myself. Here in Brazil it's still less
expensive to have my rolls developed and printed, even enlarged, at a
minilab. Since Delta 3200 is not a C-41
How stupid... I totally forgot --- meaning that I didn't care to engage
brain activity ---that this would be the opposite of push processing...
Thanks!
Now, if you're metering at 1600 under tungsten light, don't ask them to
process the film at 1600, or you'll run into the same kind of
Eduardo Carone Costa Jr. wrote:
Hi everybody,
I just bought my first roll of Ilford Delta 3200 BW film and would
appreciate any information you could give me about the best way to use it. I
would like to get some night shots, probably at a show or a bar; something
grainy and moody.
Thanks, Tom.
I had never used any film faster than ISO 800 before, and I don't know
exactly what to expect from this one.
Why do you rate it at only 1250?
-
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Eduardo Carone Costa Jr. wrote:
Thanks, Tom.
I had never used any film faster than ISO 800 before, and I don't know
exactly what to expect from this one.
Why do you rate it at only 1250?
Above that I start losing shadow detail, and I don't like the way the
grain looks.
This is a personal
tom wrote:
Above that I start losing shadow detail, and I don't like the way the
grain looks.
This is a personal choice. There are folks, (Aaron comes to mind) that
regularly shoot it faster.
I've shot it as high as 12,800, but it does lose most of its dark detail
up there. At 6400 ISO
with me and use.I'll
probably use the SF-1 35-70 and or K1000 35-80
Thanks for the help guys
Dave
Begin Original Message
From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 15:00:09 -0400
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Film advice needed
: cut your film speed in half
tom writes:
3200 seems plenty grainy to me. That's the number on the box, so why not
give it a shot? See what it does at that EI, and if you want to
experiment some more you'll at least have a base to start from.
I've shot it at 12,800 (ie pushed two stops). Yeah it gets grainy :)
Bear
David A. Mann wrote:
You might be OK if you dial in -2 stops of flash compensation. Or manually
set to 800ISO and -2 stop exposure compensation instead.
Could be, though I suspect the camera just can't quench the flash fast
enough.
It gets a little confusing if you read both manuals. The
more details
in the dark areas?
Thanks for sharing you knowledge.
- Original Message -
From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: Film advice needed
tom wrote:
Above that I start losing shadow detail, and I don't
Tom,
The PZ-1p manual states that the RTF flash range is from ISO 25 up to 800
(page 125). On the other hand, the AF500FTZ declares a maximum ISO speed of
1600 (page 31).
I believe that if I set the film speed at the body to 3200 and dial -2 stops
at the flash compensation for the RTF flash or
At 09:30 PM 9/19/2001 -0300, you wrote:
Tom,
The PZ-1p manual states that the RTF flash range is from ISO 25 up to 800
(page 125). On the other hand, the AF500FTZ declares a maximum ISO speed of
1600 (page 31).
I believe that if I set the film speed at the body to 3200 and dial -2 stops
at the
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