On 11/29/2017 10:15, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
I've come across (but haven't purchased yet) one of these rare bodies, with
the drive.
Certainly rare, especially as a combo.
How much are they worth?
... as much as you're willing to pay for it.
--
Science - Questions we may never find answers
Not as much as they should be.
On 11/29/2017 10:15 AM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
I've come across (but haven't purchased yet) one of these rare bodies, with
the drive.
Certainly rare, especially as a combo.
How much are they worth?
--
America wasn't founded so that we could all be better.
I've come across (but haven't purchased yet) one of these rare bodies, with
the drive.
Certainly rare, especially as a combo.
How much are they worth?
--
PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
PDML@pdml.net
http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the
For sale: A lovely Super Program that has seen only light use
throughout its life and is a joy to use. EX condition. Front finger
grip, body cap, strap and original Pentax manual included. Also FS:
an EX+ condition Motor Drive A. Remote cap is present, all is
excellent and working fine
For sale: A lovely Super Program that has seen light use and is a joy
to use. EX condition. Front finger grip, body cap, strap and original
Pentax manual included. Also FS: an EX+ condition Motor Drive A.
Remote cap is present, all is excellent and working fine. Original
Pentax manual included
Any interest in a KX Motor Drive new in the box?
I've got all manuals and what I believe is a 10 meter remote extension cord.
How do I know it's new? Simple...I bought it myself in '84 when I was a
Service Tech at the National Headquarters in Englewood, CO. I shot one
roll through it back
Hi,
how does the shutter release on this motor drive work? Is it completely
electrical unlike the Winder ME II, which has a vibration producing
mechanical release? All other comments are also welcome on the Motor Drive
A.
Thanks!
-Matti
PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 11:57:44 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Motor drive
Resent-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Resent-Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 11:57:46 -0500
Hmmm... I answered too fast. There is indeed a battery grip... I
thought these grips
I have a Spotmatic II motor drive camera and motor. Did Pentax ever make an
adapter to allow use of AA batteries? Anyone, by chance, have one of these
they would like to let go?
Jim A.
One thing I do know is that to open the Motor Drive A,
one needs a special tool. There are screws inside the
battery compartment - three, if memory serves me - that
must be removed to pull the thing apart. One of them
is far enough back that it is impossible to get at with
a standard straight
One thing I do know is that to open the Motor Drive A,
one needs a special tool. There are screws inside the
battery compartment - three, if memory serves me - that
must be removed to pull the thing apart. One of them
is far enough back that it is impossible to get at with
a standard straight
I just had a look at mine.
That switch on the battery component also has
unreachable screws, at least they _look_ that way.
I'd like to crack mine open because the vertical release
doesn't work.
Alan Chan wrote:
One thing I do know is that to open the Motor Drive A,
one needs a special tool
Howdy, all -
Any of you know of a good repair resource for a Motor Drive A? I've got =
one that's been used carefully for years, then just conked out -- no =
idea why, it's in superb condition. Every usual spot I've looked for =
repairs won't look at a motor drive for some reason. I'm almost
What's the problem?
Alan Chan
http://www.pbase.com/wlachan
Any of you know of a good repair resource for a Motor Drive A? I've got =
one that's been used carefully for years, then just conked out -- no =
idea why, it's in superb condition. Every usual spot I've looked for =
repairs won't look
I think the title of this auction sums it up pretty neatly...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d
ll?ViewItemitem=2950550386category=29982
Cheers,
Cotty
___/\__
|| (O) | People, Places, Pastiche
||=| www.macads.co.uk/snaps
_
Free UK Mac Ads
One of my LX winders would stop with the red light on indicating the end of the roll
(when only part way through) the camera would lock up and I'd have to switch the
winder off and then on again. Not a disaster but inconvenient and sometimes I'd miss a
shot. I tried new batteries to no avail. I
My LX Motor Drive will sometimes indicate that it's reached the end of
the roll long before it has actually done so. It seems this is due to
excessive tension in the film canister which fools the motor drive
rewind alert. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there an easy fix? Is
it more prevalent
Paul,
Others have cleaned the rewind knob on the camera and removed a sticky
substance that seemed to be gumming up the works.
Regards, Bob S.
In a message dated 7/26/03 12:46:59 PM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
My LX Motor Drive will sometimes indicate that it's reached
:
My LX Motor Drive will sometimes indicate that it's reached the end of
the roll long before it has actually done so. It seems this is due to
excessive tension in the film canister which fools the motor drive
rewind alert. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there an easy fix
Hey all,
I've come across an LX motor drive and NiCad pack for it, but it lacks
the charger, a couple questions for those familiar with it:
First the easy one, anyone have a charger they want to sell? I've tried
Pentax UK and new/NOS ones don't seem to exist (not that I'm surprised).
Barring
I have a Charge Pack M (220v) and have written to Michael off list.
Cheers,
Cotty
___/\__
|| (O) | People, Places, Pastiche
||=| www.macads.co.uk/snaps
_
Free UK Mac Ads www.macads.co.uk
I have a Pentax MX Chrome body with an MX motor drive and Nicad Pack M for
sale.
The MX was my backup body when I was shooting professionally -- I ran no
more than 200 rolls through it back then. I acquired it from the original
owner (another pro) who also used it as a backup. It was serviced
: Pentax MX + Motor Drive + Nicad
I have a Pentax MX Chrome body with an MX motor drive and Nicad Pack M for
sale.
The MX was my backup body when I was shooting professionally -- I ran no
more than 200 rolls through it back then. I acquired it from the original
owner (another pro) who also
- Original Message -
PE From: Rupprecht, James R [EMAIL PROTECTED]
PE To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
PE Sent: Saturday, February 15, 2003 5:02 AM
PE Subject: FS: Pentax MX + Motor Drive + Nicad
I have a Pentax MX Chrome body with an MX motor drive and Nicad Pack M for
sale.
The MX was my backup
Hi Gang,
I have just listed these two items for sale on e-bay
Motor Drive LX
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1395779681rd=1
and
Tokina 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 AF
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1395784814rd=1
Cheers
Shaun Canning
PhD Student
Archaeology
In the current KEH catalog (paper version) they have a
picture of an LX with motordrive attached. There is
some sort of button visible on the motordrive. Is this
a vertical shutter release? If not, what is it? TIA.
Nick Wright
__
Do you Yahoo!?
]
Subject: Re: Motor Drive LX question...
Date: Tue, Oct 1, 2002, 5:36 PM
In the current KEH catalog (paper version) they have a
picture of an LX with motordrive attached. There is
some sort of button visible on the motordrive. Is this
a vertical shutter release? If not, what is it? TIA.
Nick, I'm
Please give me your address so that I can send you a cheque incl. Postage
for London UK.
Thanks
Arnold.
Hi Arnold,
Our emails crossed in the wires :-)
May I suggest Royal Mail Special Delivery with insurance up to £250? If
this is okay, that will be £5, bringing the total to £133.
Cheque
APOLOGIES!
Please ignor ethis thread.
D'OHHH!!!
Oh swipe me! He paints with light!
http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps/
Free UK Macintosh Classified Ads at
http://www.macads.co.uk/
Motor Drive LX
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1382196827
Speaking of Motor Drive LX ... I was in a photo shop the other day and
they had the Motor Drive setup for an LX. I had seen the rechargable
battery packs for it before, but they had a mammoth beast of a battery
grip
Apologies: I mistakenly ticked 'will ship to UK only on these, and of
course I will ship worldwide - I have ammended accordingly.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1379792235
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1379786341
Cheers,
Cotty
Hi again gang,
No takers yet for my pristine LX with Motor Drive and NiCad Pack LX +
charger, so I now offer them individually to the list.
eBay is the last stage if no takers, this weekend prolly Sunday evening
GMT.
All prices are rock bottom discount for the list, so unfortunately
list.
Pentax Motor Drive LX in Exc+ condition. Serial number 111XXX
Works perfectly. 5 frames per second dedicated drive for the LX. Includes
remote port cap. Not much to say except it's bloody fast! Jpegs supplied.
Pentax Ni-Cd Battery Pack LX in Exc++ condition.
Re-celled with brand new Sanyo
Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 7:34 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Motor Drive Problems
Taka,
I've used a Motor Drive A for 15 years and not had problems. They are
pretty
durable. Make sure you have good batteries in them. They will stop
before
they pull the film out
this is a fatal mistake as you
rip up the sprocket holes on the film and it cannot be processed.
My advice would be, put in new batteries, clean the contacts on the Body and Motor
Drive, and clean that rewind knob axel. After that, things should work just fine.
Stop worrying about it. (unless
whether the motor drive is going to be reliable or not- I missed some
really nice
shots because of this problem last weekend.
I'll clean the contacts w/ DeOxit, already cleaned the rewind shaft.
Taka
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net
Thanks to William Robb, Bill Casselberry and Bob S., I think I have
at least temporarily fixed the problem. The Motor Drive A appears to
work fine today with a roll of 24 exp. after I took listers' advice,
disassembled the rewind crank and cleaned the small amount of black
crud off of the shaft
A follow up question- why is the drive so sensitive to a tiny amount of
dirt
in the camera? I'm afraid that the drive is marginal, if it can't
overcome a
bit of friction.
I had 2 2ndhand MDA few years back and both worked perfectly (except the
aging rubbers). I don't think they are not
TM wrote:
The rewind crank? Are you saying that I pull hard on the U shaped
bit and the crank comes out from the top? Should I use anything to
lube the shaft before reassembly, like a Teflon dry lube?
No - hold it w/ a flatblade screwdriver, then the top screws
off
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Motor Drive problems
Taka, I will check with my repair guy on this one. Don't discount the
possibility of an oxidized electrical connection causing the motor to
torque out under load though. Give me 18 hours to find what he says.
William Robb
- Original Message
- Original Message -
From: TM
Subject: RE: Motor Drive A problems
Taka, Here is what my repair guy sez:
There is a gear set in the motordrive that starts to wear out.
The symptom is that as more film is advanced onto the take up
spool, and more torque is required to drive the film
- Original Message -
From: TM
Subject: RE: Motor Drive problems
I just checked Pentax USA, they no longer support the Motor
Drive Eh! either.
If the camera does what you describe without the drive, then
likely the film advance is weak, and should be adjusted while it
still works.
I am
TM wrote:
Does this sound like my Super A needs a CLA, or does it still
point to the Motor Drive causing problems?
The Super Series can gett friction hang-up in the shaft/sleeve
of the rewind crank. Mine has, but its easy fix. You just take
out the rewind crank
Thanks. If it is just gears, do you know if anyone can fabricate the
gears if they
are not available? If they are made of plastic, I also wonder if it
would be wise to
see if they can be fabbed in brass or stainless steel.
Your description sounds exactly like the problem- the motor drive works
Of Bill D. Casselberry
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:36 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Motor Drive problems
TM wrote:
Does this sound like my Super A needs a CLA, or does it still point to
the Motor Drive causing problems?
The Super Series can gett friction hang-up in the shaft
before reassembly, like a Teflon dry lube?
Taka
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Bill D. Casselberry
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:36 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Motor Drive problems
TM wrote:
Does this sound like my Super
- Original Message -
From: TM
Subject: RE: Motor Drive problems
Thanks. If it is just gears, do you know if anyone can
fabricate the
gears if they
are not available? If they are made of plastic, I also wonder
if it
would be wise to
see if they can be fabbed in brass or stainless
Wouldn't poor contacts cause the motor drive to stop working
completely at times?
I'm not able to run a single roll through the camera w/o the motor
drive acting funny, but it seems as though when it works, it works
fine and this problem never showed up when testing the motor drive
w/o actually
PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 5:26 PM
Subject: RE: Motor Drive problems
Wouldn't poor contacts cause the motor drive to stop working
completely at times?
I'm not able to run a single roll through the camera w/o the
motor
drive acting funny, but it seems as though when it works, it
works
the
clamping got poor. After reworking it, everything works fine again.
So maybe at your drives, it's the same contact problem.
regards
-Original Message-
From: TM [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 3:53 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Motor Drive problems
I
:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 3:53 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Motor Drive problems
I finally had the opportunity to test out my Motor Drive A
and found a problem- quite often, the drive wouldn't wind the
entire frame and I'd have to wind it to completion
http://kmp.BDimitrov.de/for_sale/
Note that I will be out of town until Thu, May 6!
Boz
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Hi,
I am offering the rare Motor Drive MD for the K2 DMD together with a
Battery Grip M. Both items are in truely excellent shape and fully
functional. I am asking 350 Euros or 315 US$. For details please look at
the bottom of Boz' for sale page.
Arnold
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.arnoldstark.de
Hi,
I wrote before:
The POWER PACK M gives 25mA charge current. So the
nominal charging time for a complete empty pack
will be 110*1,4/25=6,16 = 6 hours 10 minutes.
( 1,4 is the typical effiency factor for NiCd charge
calculation )
Sorry, it has to be:
The CHARGE PACK M ...
The POWER
-Original Message-
From: Rob Studdert [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 6:26 PM
To: Rupprecht, James R; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: LX motor drive - question
On 30 Apr 2002 at 12:26, Rupprecht, James R wrote:
Hey Rob...
Being the lazy type when possible, I
Frantisek
Power Pack M is the large transformer with a-plenty of tactile toggle
switches, and large interval timer knob in the centre. I am on the trail of
one as we speak.
It's a lovely thing - would have looked great on our stand at Photographica -
unfortunately someone purchased it.
We
:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 7:01 PM
To: Rupprecht, James R; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: LX motor drive - question
On 29 Apr 2002 at 12:57, Rupprecht, James R wrote:
The huge plus of NiMH packs is that they are less succeptable to memory
issues so you can charge partially
On 30 Apr 2002 at 12:26, Rupprecht, James R wrote:
Hey Rob...
Being the lazy type when possible, I have always had my pack assembled by
the battery seller. I initially used NiCd cells for my packs. What I found
was that using the Sanyo 225 mah cells (I think they are same ones you use) my
On 30 Apr 2002 at 9:37, HUDERER Bernd wrote:
Hi Rob,
AA cells have a diameter of 14mm. And also 1/3AA cells have a diameter of
14mm.
A cells have a diameter of 17mm - 1/3A have also 17mm.
And here's the point I don't understand which cells you used for your
repair. You wrote 225mA
.
-- Forwarded message --
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 16:58:01 +0200
From: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: LX motor drive - question
Hi,
I might get an LX drive soon, but alas, it lacks the charger. I
have few questions wrt
ii) It appears that the LX winder battery packs expire and require
surgery. I would love to get one (even one that needs surgery). Would
anyone be interested in trading for one of the T handle AA battery packs?
Len.
I'd do it if you want, Len. You mean the LX motor pack...
Andre
--
-
This
In a message dated 27/04/02 20:31:23 GMT Daylight Time, Frantisek writes:
1) how hard the chargers are to get, either from Pentax /or else
g/ (any for sale :) ?
Which voltage do you need? Ours are Japan voltage 100v. I think that a USA-
(insert your home country voltage here) adapter
andre wrote:
The biggest issue with the NiCd packs is not
overcharging (a full
charge is 16 hours)
Other post says 6 to 10 hours. 16 would be a max ?
.
No, about 8 hours is right. There is a real chance to
ruin the batteries when charging them for 16 hours
Hi,
some comments:
the original cells ( 1/3AA 14x17mm, cost in Germany about 2 Euro each ) have
a capacity of 110 mAh. The POWER PACK M gives 25mA charge current. So the
nominal charging time for a complete empty pack will be 110*1,4/25=6,16 = 6
hours 10 minutes. ( 1,4 is the typical effiency
-Original Message-
From: Cotty [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:28 AM
To: Pentax List
Subject: Re: LX motor drive - question
James, I have 2 dead power packs and I want to have them repacked.
Could you give me the specs ? It could be usefull to the guy (have
The biggest issue with the NiCd packs is not overcharging (a full
charge is 16 hours)
Other post says 6 to 10 hours. 16 would be a max ?
but with having to wait until they are dead to recharge them, or
rigging a device to discharge them before you charge them.
Because of memory building ?
Hi,
I might get an LX drive soon, but alas, it lacks the charger. I
have few questions wrt it, please:
1) how hard the chargers are to get, either from Pentax /or else
g/ (any for sale :) ?
2) how do they work - it's a dumb charger I presume, without any
electronics inside to
Yes, the charger is a dumb charger. They can still be purchased new from
BH and other places... I believe they go for $60 or so, but it has been a
while since I bought one. You can also use Power Pack M, which is the
device designed to let you use A/C current for the motor.
The biggest issue
1) how hard the chargers are to get, either from Pentax /or else
g/ (any for sale :) ?
I sold a charger and NiCad Pack LX on eBay recently for £89. Peter at
Camera Direct has the NiCad Packs for about £120 (I think). The chargers
are simple two-prong affairs that take either ~110v or ~230v
Sorry - a typo in my orevious post might cause confusion - corrections as
capitals:
1) how hard the chargers are to get, either from Pentax /or else
g/ (any for sale :) ?
I sold a charger and NICAD PACK MX on eBay recently for £89. Peter at
Camera Direct has the NiCad Packs for about £120
At 3:28 PM -0400 4/25/02, Fred wrote:
Are these two compatible?
No, sorry. While the Winder ME II will work with the ME Super and
some other M bodies, as well as with the Super Program/A and the
Program Plus/A, the Motor Drive A will work only with the Super
Program/A and the Program Plus
Are these two compatible?
--
Kenneth Archer, San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Now that I have brought my discovered motor-drive back from the dead I'm
looking for applications and accessories. It seems to me that it would be
very useful to have the cord that allowed me to plug power directly into
the motor-drive instead of using the battery-pack grip.
Does anyone know
I have an LX motor drive that saddly does not work. It LOOKS in excellent
condition but there is a little corrosion on the bottom mounting screws
(and only on the bottom) that speaks of interactions with seawater
(consistent with the units history). I sent it off to Pentax and when
Hello Steve.
Remote Cord A is the 5m remote release for your drive. They are fairly
uncommon - the drive end is at 90 degrees.
Kind regards from sunny Brighton
Peter
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions.
Aln:
How can you get the Motor A open? I have to tight up the vertical fire
button, it is loose on my unit and have tried to find how to open the
thing to fix it!
Angel
Arecibo, Puerto Rico
Alan Chan wrote:
I got a nice working motor drive A at local store
really cheap. My question
the Motor A open? I have to tight up the vertical fire
button, it is loose on my unit and have tried to find how to open the
thing to fix it!
Angel
Arecibo, Puerto Rico
Alan Chan wrote:
I got a nice working motor drive A at local store
really cheap. My question is what cord
I'm not familiar with this unit but, generally, the fixing
screws are located underneath the leather cloth which often
covers parts of the unit.
Never force the casings apart. There will usually be yet
another hidden screw somewhere.
Unfortunately (or fortunately), there is nothing underneath
Thanks very much Alan!
If I encounter any gremlings I will sure ask you back!
Angel
Arecibo, Puerto Rico
Alan Chan wrote:
How can you get the Motor A open? I have to tight up the vertical fire
button, it is loose on my unit and have tried to find how to open the
thing to fix it!
Too bad
I got a nice working motor drive A at local store
really cheap. My question is what cord is for
the releas socket? can you use nicads or nickel
metals in it?
thanks,
steve
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List
I got a nice working motor drive A at local store
really cheap. My question is what cord is for
the releas socket? can you use nicads or nickel
metals in it?
Any rechargable cells are fine with MDA. If there was a delay to wind the
film after firing the shutter, that means the little piece
I have taken advantage of several deals through the
list,by being mentioned here first,and would rather
do sales this way than over ebay.I trust every one here
Dave
Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
-
This message is
Hi Everyone,
As someone who has benefited from what is on eBay, from PDML members, I was
disappointed to see that it is not the done thing to inform others of a
bargain on said eBay. I thought we looked out for each other on PDML and let
people know of Pentax items that are available - yes?
I
Hi, Malcolm,
I'm not sure if you're refering to PDML sellers letting the list know that they
have items for sale on eBay, if you're referring to list members informing the
list when they see bargains listed on eBay, or both.
Only problem I see with what you say, is that if it's an item that I'm
I like photography. I also want to retire soon. For the last 5 years, everything I've
bought for my two main hobbies (considerably more than I need) has therefore been
looked
upon as an investment (or at least something that will maintain some semblance of
value).
As to my firearms, they are
Hi, Bob,
I have to admit (although it may sound blasphemous to many listers), I'm not a very
good
capitalist. That being said, sometimes it (capitalism) works very well, and I think
eBay is
one of those places. Individuals of more or less equal bargaining power in the open
marketplace.
Hey,
Kinda depends on whose ox is being gored doesn't it?
On Wednesday 23 January 2002 05:07 pm, frank theriault wrote:
Only problem I see with what you say, is that if it's an item that
I'm interested in, I'm not sure that I want any more people than
would have already viewed an auction in on the
On Wednesday 23 January 2002 08:35 pm, frank theriault wrote:
I really don't think that hurt is the proper word to use here. If
I'm not high bidder at the end of an auction, for whatever reason,
I'm not hurt. I just don't get the piece of gear that I'm
interested in at the price that I
On Wed, Jan 23, 2002 at 09:16:05PM -0600, Ken Archer wrote:
Way to go. Spoken like a true sniper, Paul. And I might add the words
of my father, Experience is a cruel teacher, but a fool can learn by
no other.
I failed to get the sarcasm, if there was any, or the point being made
by the
Paul knows what I mean. He said, To be frank, with 2 hours to go, the
high bidder is a fool. It's like being in the lead in a bicycle race
with 200 yards to go and another rider drafting on your wheel. You're
going to lose. The only way you learn that is after experiencing it a
few times.
On Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:51:02 -0500, Paul Stenquist wrote:
To be frank, with 2 hours to go, the high bidder is a fool.
Pretty strong words.
I do not see this way. If there is an item on eBay, or anywhere else for that matter,
I know what I'm willing to
pay, Period. Not a cent more. If I get
Hi, Frank. Thanks for replying.
In the case of items that I'm bidding on or that I'm personally
interested in, it's a matter of protecting my self interest. I
don't think that's in any way unfriendly, and it's certainly not
lacking in logic.
My use of the terms logic, helpful, and
Gary Murphy wrote:. If I get it at that price fine, if not, I'll move on.
Just today I managed to pick up a Sigma 28-80 f/3.5-f/4.5 manual focus for my
grand-daughter for less that
18 bucks =including= shipping. I placed my bid about four hours before the auction
was over. I won it below
As sellers, we should alert the list.
As shoppers or buyers or ebay surfers, we should keep our mouths
shut.
That policy will result in the best prices for members whether
they're buying or selling.
Paul, I think your suggestions make the most sense of all. It's
simple and logical. It
A point well taken, Paul. I think Fred made the same point in another post.
You're right, just because I don't recognize the high bidder doesn't mean that
other pdml listers aren't watching any given auction.
As I said, I think I've only done it twice, but I guess the best policy is just
to
Gary, there are a lot of people on ebay who don't have a clue as to
what an item is worth. They let everyone else set the market value and
then they bid a $1 more. If you bid $50 they bid $51. Pretty soon
someone else comes along and bids $100 and they bid $101. Then you bid
your top bid
Fred, I love the way you described me and those like me as the PDML-er
who is expending a lot of effort to glean Pentax gold out of the eBay
rubble. I couldn't think of a better way to describe those of us who
play the game on ebay.
--
Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
If I add my vote to Paul's suggestion does three make a majority ;-)
On Wednesday 23 January 2002 09:24 pm, Fred wrote:
As sellers, we should alert the list.
As shoppers or buyers or ebay surfers, we should keep our mouths
shut.
That policy will result in the best prices for members
I can make it four, going along with Paul, Fred, and Ken...
If I add my vote to Paul's suggestion does three make a majority ;-)
On Wednesday 23 January 2002 09:24 pm, Fred wrote:
As sellers, we should alert the list.
As shoppers or buyers or ebay surfers, we should keep our mouths
I don't see it as any big deal, one way or the other.
And, in any event, we're going to get this all nice and hashed out so it's
as pretty as a House Bill, and then everybody will go on doing exactly what
they want.
--Mike
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
1 - 100 of 141 matches
Mail list logo
