I like the feeler gauge idea and i have one around somewhere...
Thanks to those that responded with that.
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Feeler gauge is exactly what I was thinking - the flat blade type, not,
obviously, the wire type. The flat blades will give you some pretty
thin options.
-p
On 5/1/2012 11:29 PM, John Francis wrote:
On Tue, May 01, 2012 at 09:15:40PM -0500, Darren Addy wrote:
The problem is that the ball be
On 5/2/2012 9:15 AM, John Sessoms wrote:
From: Bob Sullivan
1) If you don't need to fix the A50/1.7 you have now, don't
disassemble it !!!
I understood he has two broken lenses with different problems & he's
proposing to disassemble them to see if he can merge them into one
functional lens
If he has a good, operational A50/1.7, then leave well enough alone.
Regards, Bob S.
On Wed, May 2, 2012 at 9:15 AM, John Sessoms wrote:
> From: Bob Sullivan
>>
>> 1) If you don't need to fix the A50/1.7 you have now, don't disassemble
>> it !!!
>
>
> I understood he has two broken lenses with
From: Bob Sullivan
1) If you don't need to fix the A50/1.7 you have now, don't disassemble it !!!
I understood he has two broken lenses with different problems & he's
proposing to disassemble them to see if he can merge them into one
functional lens as a back-up for his good operational A50/
On Wed, May 2, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Jeffery Smith wrote:
>> This is clearly a task best left to people who know what they're doing. I
>> thought maybe, for once, it might be a reasonably simple fix. I'll just
>> leave it be and use it as an M lens until I find that
t; it be and use it as an M lens until I find that "Free Lens Repair" place
> nobody's been talking about.
>
> Thanks to all for the input! Maybe someday, when I feel adventurous enough to
> risk having two useless lenses, I'll take it up again.
>
> -- Wa
Thanks, Collin.
I'll keep that in mind if I should decide to take up the task one day.
But, based on what I've read so far, I should probably leave things well
enough alone until the day I'm swimming in A 50/1.7's and don't mind
losing one or two.
-- Walt
On 5/2/2012 7:33 AM, Collin Brendem
Ah, I see.
This is clearly a task best left to people who know what they're doing.
I thought maybe, for once, it might be a reasonably simple fix. I'll
just leave it be and use it as an M lens until I find that "Free Lens
Repair" place nobody's been talking about
I've repaired a number of the A50/1.7 lenses.
The most common issue was the leaf spring being
separated from the body because of the plastic
aperture ring.
Keeping track of that detente bearing
was sometimes difficult. In the end, the
best way that I found was to just smear
some of the lens lu
On Tue, May 01, 2012 at 10:09:35PM -0700, Theodore Beilby wrote:
> Hey Darren how about a feeler gauge? Thin, tough, metal blades. Just a
> thought.
Is there an echo in here?
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Hey Darren how about a feeler gauge? Thin, tough, metal blades. Just a thought.
Ted
"The eye of the viewer becomes the eye of the Photographer." Albert Maysles
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On Tue, May 01, 2012 at 09:15:40PM -0500, Darren Addy wrote:
> The problem is that the ball bearing is held "high" by a spring beneath it.
> You must compress the spring so the ball bearing is low enough to slip
> the aperture ring over.
> Now imagine trying to keep the ball bearing "down" as you s
1) If you don't need to fix the A50/1.7 you have now, don't disassemble it !!!
2) If you are bound and determined to disassemble it, then
a) go into the kitchen where you have good light and a vinyl floor.
b) do the disassembly in a big tray with tall sides (like for
breakfast in bed).
c
The problem is that the ball bearing is held "high" by a spring beneath it.
You must compress the spring so the ball bearing is low enough to slip
the aperture ring over.
Now imagine trying to keep the ball bearing "down" as you slide the
ring one. As you slide the ring, whatever you were holding t
nt: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 3:38 PM
> To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
> Subject: Re: Lens repair question
>
>
> On 5/1/2012 2:23 PM, Darren Addy wrote:
>>
>> The hardest part is keeping the little ball bearing (that engages the
>> detents and provide the tactile feedback)
: Re: Lens repair question
On 5/1/2012 2:23 PM, Darren Addy wrote:
The hardest part is keeping the little ball bearing (that engages the
detents and provide the tactile feedback) from whizzing away when you
replace the ring. If somebody has a good trick for that, I'd love to
know what it i
On 5/1/2012 2:23 PM, Darren Addy wrote:
The hardest part is keeping the little ball bearing (that engages the
detents and provide the tactile feedback) from whizzing away when you
replace the ring. If somebody has a good trick for that, I'd love to
know what it is. (I can tell you that it is a go
The hardest part is keeping the little ball bearing (that engages the
detents and provide the tactile feedback) from whizzing away when you
replace the ring. If somebody has a good trick for that, I'd love to
know what it is. (I can tell you that it is a good idea to work at the
reassembly [if not
Hi all,
I was just wondering -- say a fella got his hands on an A 50/1.7 that
someone had removed the aperture control contacts from. How hard would
it be to take the aperture control contacts from a damaged A 50/1.7 and
transfer them to the one that had the contacts removed? Is it a
particul
On 19/9/11, Krisjanis Linkevics, discombobulated, unleashed:
>A food moth found a home in my FA 135/2.8 of all places. So there the
>usual moth crap, webbing and an abandoned cocoon there.
>I probably need to get it cleaned ASAP, ideas?
I think there's a plug-in for Photoshop that lets the moth l
I actually like mine better with the APS-C sensor. It's nearly
perfect for the races.
On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 7:57 AM, Krisjanis Linkevics
wrote:
>
>
>> Steven Desjardins
>>
>> Oh no. My favorite lens. What a strange thing. I wouldn't have
>> thought it could get in.
>>
>
> Yes, mine too. Not
> Steven Desjardins
>
> Oh no. My favorite lens. What a strange thing. I wouldn't have
> thought it could get in.
>
Yes, mine too. Not seeing a lot of action with the crop sensors but still a
valued piece of equipment. My SO wanted to know the monetary damage, showed her
a pic of A*135/1.
Oh no. My favorite lens. What a strange thing. I wouldn't have
thought it could get in.
On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 6:25 AM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
> Any good lens technician should be able to do it.
> On Sep 19, 2011, at 4:39 AM, Krisjanis Linkevics wrote:
>
>> A food moth found a home in my FA 13
Any good lens technician should be able to do it.
On Sep 19, 2011, at 4:39 AM, Krisjanis Linkevics wrote:
> A food moth found a home in my FA 135/2.8 of all places. So there the usual
> moth crap, webbing and an abandoned cocoon there.
> I probably need to get it cleaned ASAP, ideas?
>
> kris
>
A food moth found a home in my FA 135/2.8 of all places. So there the usual
moth crap, webbing and an abandoned cocoon there.
I probably need to get it cleaned ASAP, ideas?
kris
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If you decide to take it apart, document and mark every single step so
you can get it back together properly.
When I've taken apart primes, getting the helical screwed back on
properly is a PITA. Also, be careful of the grease. If you wipe off
too much, you may have problems with smooth turning
it up and see if you can fix it. Most of the old
manual lenses are not too complicated. And after all it will be a good
experience! :)
Cheers,
.t
- Original Message -
From: "Collin Brendemuehl"
To: "pdml"
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2011 1:19 AM
Subject: ot: lens repair
The Vivi S1 24-70/3.8-4.8 that I picked up last weekend ...
It will not focus past about 5 ft. The focus ring is its a stopping point.
I've not disassembled one of these before.
Any hints? Or should I chalk it up to experience?
Sincerely,
Collin Brendemuehl
http://kerygmainstitute.org
"He i
And another recommendation...
Yes, I've used Eric since before he retired from Chicago to Tennessee.
Excellent work on all things Pentax.
Regards, Bob S.
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 2:34 PM, Ann Sanfedele wrote:
> He ended up sending it to the guy in Tennesee and he is mighty pleased...
> great work
Glad to hear another positive report, Ann.
-p
On 12/3/2010 2:34 PM, Ann Sanfedele wrote:
He ended up sending it to the guy in Tennesee and he is mighty
pleased... great work and very good price.
Thanks for the recommendations and now there is another one ...
Paul Sorenson said:
Eric Hendr
He ended up sending it to the guy in Tennesee and he is mighty
pleased... great work and very good price.
Thanks for the recommendations and now there is another one ...
Paul Sorenson said:
Eric Hendrickson is reportedly pretty good. He worked for Pentax for
years...He's about 50 miles nor
2009/10/4 paul stenquist :
> Send it to Pentax Colorado. They do very good work.
> Paul
Pentax have now outsourced repairs to another company:
http://www.earthtimes.org/articles/show/pentax-imaging-appoints-cris-as,913238.shtml
--M.
--
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
http://
I would send it out to Eric.
penta...@aol.com
--Sasha
On Sun, Oct 4, 2009 at 3:21 PM, paul stenquist wrote:
> Send it to Pentax Colorado. They do very good work.
> Paul
> On Oct 4, 2009, at 6:14 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
>
>> My pfa-50/1.4 seems to have a piece of grit in it. When I focus it in
>>
Send it to Pentax Colorado. They do very good work.
Paul
On Oct 4, 2009, at 6:14 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
My pfa-50/1.4 seems to have a piece of grit in it. When I focus it in
as close as it can, it sticks.
I could send it in to Pentax (I need to send my flash back for
warranty repair anyways), b
My pfa-50/1.4 seems to have a piece of grit in it. When I focus it in
as close as it can, it sticks.
I could send it in to Pentax (I need to send my flash back for
warranty repair anyways), bring it to a local shop (SF Bay area),
mail it someplace else for repair, or try to clean it myself.
Sugge
From: Charles Robinson
When I dropped mine and damaged it (jammed the zoom) the repair was
about $260. So... probably 'round that much.
If I recall, the parts were cheap and it was a couple hours of labor.
Did I really see the repair broken out that way? I think I did.
A lot of places
On May 15, 2009, at 19:18, Cory Papenfuss wrote:
On Fri, 15 May 2009, Paul Stenquist wrote:
Are you sure the front element is loose rather than just the hood
retainer ring? The hood ring of my DA*16-50 is a bit loose, but the
front element is solid. Look carefully.
Paul
I've removed the
If it were an M or A lens I'd guess $50, with the DA I couldn't guess...
Cory Papenfuss wrote:
On Fri, 15 May 2009, Paul Stenquist wrote:
Are you sure the front element is loose rather than just the hood
retainer ring? The hood ring of my DA*16-50 is a bit loose, but the
front element is soli
On Fri, 15 May 2009, Paul Stenquist wrote:
Are you sure the front element is loose rather than just the hood retainer
ring? The hood ring of my DA*16-50 is a bit loose, but the front element is
solid. Look carefully.
Paul
I've removed the hood, and the final element is still a bit loose.
I
Are you sure the front element is loose rather than just the hood
retainer ring? The hood ring of my DA*16-50 is a bit loose, but the
front element is solid. Look carefully.
Paul
On May 15, 2009, at 11:32 AM, Cory Papenfuss wrote:
Hey guys. I've got a DA* 16-50mm that's got a loose front el
On May 15, 2009, at 10:32, Cory Papenfuss wrote:
Hey guys. I've got a DA* 16-50mm that's got a loose front element
where the hood snaps on. I suspect something in one of the helical
screws might be worn or broken. Any thoughts on how much a repair
like that might cost and where to send
Hey guys. I've got a DA* 16-50mm that's got a loose front element
where the hood snaps on. I suspect something in one of the helical screws
might be worn or broken. Any thoughts on how much a repair like that
might cost and where to send it?
Thanks
-Cory
--
**
Unless one slips and "does in" an element. A bit more than possible in
my case. ;-)
Jim
William Robb wrote:
- Original Message - From: "Jim Hemenway" Subject: Re: Lens repair
A stick with two nails... hmmm.
Works like a hot damn to remove lens bezels.
William Robb
- Original Message -
From: "Jim Hemenway"
Subject: Re: Lens repair
A stick with two nails... hmmm.
Works like a hot damn to remove lens bezels.
William Robb
m: Jim Hemenway [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 18:14:14 -0400
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: Lens repair
Are there any Takumar lens repair persons on the list?
Jim
mail2web - Check your email from
>then you actually are a repair person...
No, but he sleeps in a Holiday Inn Express
Kenneth Waller
-Original Message-
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Aug 11, 2005 2:01 AM
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: RE: Lens repair
If you own
-
-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: Lens repair
Are there any Takumar lens repair persons on the list?
Jim
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
Are there any Takumar lens repair persons on the list?
Jim
Illinois Bill wrote:
Tom,
I'm not sure I follow where these rings are. Could you post a better
description, or perhaps a picture? I do own this lens in K-mount
I can't post a picture without shooting some slides, getting them
processed then scanning them (that last part is hateful).
L
Tom,
I'm not sure I follow where these rings are. Could you post a
better description, or perhaps a picture? I do own this lens in
K-mount
IL Bill
On Jun 13, 2005, at 11:02 AM, Tom C wrote:
Hi Gang,
I recently received my used Pentax 500/4.5. Upon uncrating, I heard
some rattles and
Hi Gang,
I recently received my used Pentax 500/4.5. Upon uncrating, I heard
some rattles and discovered three almost paper-thin metal rings of
varying sizes. Their diameters fit on ledges just inside the optical
tube at various points. It's easy to see where they go, as it looks
like the ad
x27;t use
much glue. Just a spot or two.
I worried about damaging the lens a lot more than I worried about fixing it
right. I wasn't at all concerned about the baffle coming loose again. The
one thing I didn't want to do was make the situation worse.
Tom Reese
Subject: Lens Repair Quest
Hi Gang,
I recently received my used Pentax 500/4.5. Upon uncrating, I heard some
rattles and discovered three almost paper-thin metal rings of varying sizes.
Their diameters fit on ledges just inside the optical tube at various
points. It's easy to see where they go, as it looks like the adh
On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 11:34:05 -0700, Joseph Tainter
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> KEH's online quote system is telling me $35.00, which sounds
> suspiciously low.
>
Joe,
That is their estimate fee. You'll need to read the fine print on
their website. It says, basically, that unless you're asking f
On Mar 12, 2005, at 10:34 AM, Joseph Tainter wrote:
As I posted a short while ago, I just picked up a battered F* 300 f4.5
that needs repairs. Aperture works fine, optics look very clear. The
barrel appears to be in two parts, which are joined underneath the
autofocus/manual focus adjustment rin
As I posted a short while ago, I just picked up a battered F* 300 f4.5
that needs repairs. Aperture works fine, optics look very clear. The
barrel appears to be in two parts, which are joined underneath the
autofocus/manual focus adjustment ring. The body is loose here and
wobbles quite a bit.
I am in the midst of my second-ever bad ebay experience. Based upon some
of
the recommendations here, I purchased a F70-210 lens and just got it
yesterday. It took some looking but I can see a bit of haze on what
appears
to be the outside of the second piece of glass from the front of the lens.
there seems to be no cure.
>
> http://www.pentaxusa.com
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Patrick Wunsch [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:39 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Who does Interior Lens Repair or Cleaning?
>
> I am in the mid
s Interior Lens Repair or Cleaning?
I am in the midst of my second-ever bad ebay experience. Based upon some of
the recommendations here, I purchased a F70-210 lens and just got it
yesterday. It took some looking but I can see a bit of haze on what appears
to be the outside of the second piec
"Patrick Wunsch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>I am in the midst of my second-ever bad ebay experience. Based upon some of
>the recommendations here, I purchased a F70-210 lens and just got it
>yesterday. It took some looking but I can see a bit of haze on what appears
>to be the outside of the se
You might contact Nick Sandstede, owner of SML Camera Repairs, 4050
Glencoe Ave, Marina del Rey, CA 90292.
I've been taking my Pentax bodies and lenses and Retina cameras to Nick
for years. A nice man to do business with and he does good work.
His email address: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: 310-306-8
Dave Evans wrote:
Any notions on either a place that can
repair the lens (choice 1), or a suitable replacement lens (or even two)
(choice 2)?
For choice 2 try www.ebay.com
cheers,
caveman
I have owned a Tamron 70-210 F3.5-4 (adaptall) for several years, and have
used it extensively. Good optics, and will go to 1:2 without attachments.
Unfortunately, a tripod leg collapsed, and the outcome was a lens with the
adaptall cocked about 10 degrees off-axis. I could not easily disengage the
In a message dated 8/18/2002 10:11:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> I will try my best to detail the procedure so that it's pretty universal
WE LOVE YOU ROB
Regards,
Bob
-
This message is from
On 18 Aug 2002 at 21:47, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Rob,
>
> That is a big tease!
> I've been part of the way taking off the back, but never all the way!
> Now you're gonna show us how...
> How long does it take you?
Hi Bob,
Sorry :-)
I will try my best to detail the procedure so that it's p
Wow, that will be fun... and cheap. Thanks for the teaching!
Andre
>Hi Team,
>
>I had to perform an A-series lens (SMCPA 50f1.4) re-lube over the weekend. I
>decided to document the procedure and I'm now putting together a basic fully
>illustrated guide for A-series lens de-construction, half
Rob,
That is a big tease!
I've been part of the way taking off the back, but never all the way!
Now you're gonna show us how...
How long does it take you?
Regards, Bob S.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Hi Team,
I had to perform an A-series lens (SMCPA 50f1.4) re-lube over the weekend. I
de
Hi Team,
I had to perform an A-series lens (SMCPA 50f1.4) re-lube over the weekend. I
decided to document the procedure and I'm now putting together a basic fully
illustrated guide for A-series lens de-construction, half way there, see the
pic following:
http://www.home.aone.net.au/audiobias/A_
der (and not by getting the plate fully straight:). I
reassembled the lens this afternoon and after a couple of minor hiccups,
which were fixed quickly, it's now in good working order.
So I now have a bit of knowledge about Mamiya lenses, including a
recommendation to leave lens repair to the ex
John,
Did you ever get this back together?
I just looked at your web page with the photo of the loose pieces.
Let me know if you still need help.
Mark Roberts
John Mustarde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>On Sun, 25 Mar 2001 15:53:56 -0600, you wrote:
>
>>> Anyone got an exploded parts diagram fo
#1. Get your parts together.
I'm assuming the aperture ring is in place.
You should have the spring, the pin it goes under, a right-angle
"arm" with
a slot (where the pin fits -- It also has a tab on the long end),
and a small metal plate that connects to nothing.
A
On Sun, 25 Mar 2001 15:53:56 -0600, you wrote:
>> Anyone got an exploded parts diagram for A-series lenses?
>
>Nope, but I have an exploded A series 50/1.7 though. This was
>after carefully following the instructions for dissasembly.
>
Still got the instructions? Can I get a copy?
If anyone can
John,
I got an exploded view of an LX from Pentax CO, maybe give them
a call, who knows.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
From: "John Mustarde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject
Anyone got an exploded parts diagram for A-series lenses?
I have a perfectly good A-series 50/1.7. But it needs the little
contact re-installed beneath the mount - you know, the little contact
that relays information from the lens to the body. I've got all the
parts, but don't know exactly where
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