ally saved another 0.4 lb -- 4.3 lb total --
> because I first installed 700C X 50 Furious Freds at 360 grams each.
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 4:57 PM ted >
> wrote:
>
>> Depending on the size tires you ride, replacing your tubes with sealant
>> can save a few o
er
> right, I got rid of 1.5 pounds by shedding tubes. That said, none of us
> women are weight weenies - we’re choosing stout Rivendell bikes as our
> daily riders after all, but if we can trim some of the fat to make the
> bikes more maneuverable, we do.
>
> Sent from my
re is also
the matter of whether one finds the repair process for one system more or
less onerous than the other.
On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 12:54:39 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Precisely my assessment as well, Ted. Goatheads are the dividing line I
> see. Yet, clearly, t
thered by flats resulting from similar irritants)
tubeless may be an answer. Different circumstances / environments often
warrant different equipment choices.
regards
Ted
On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 11:42:21 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Sweet ride, Roberta! I know how much more my
go beyond thought experiments. I resort to my own experience with the
> Kojaks: these have a puncture belt (tho' be it said that they roll PDG for
> commuter tires with such a layer), and were decent, not great, with tubes;
> without tubes, elevated to Elk Pass (559 X 29, 175 -- !
lement would remove one cause of resistance. From the
> opposite extreme, my experience adding Mr Tuffys or suchlike liners very
> definitely makes tires feel slower, as in 6" of cold molasses.
>
> What do others with experience of both systems say?
>
>
>
> On Sat, Ju
tly what the direct benefits of going
tubeless are.
Anyway. Congratulations on your great upgrades. Sounds wonderful.
regards
Ted
p.s. If you want to go crazy on the weight saving, get a Ti frame Brooks,
Rivet, or Berthoud saddle and a 1/3 Ti duraAce cassette.
On Saturday, June 6, 2020 at 9:42:36 AM UTC-7,
Hang in there. They seem to go in spurts, so nothing now definitely doesn't
mean never.
I speculate that being hard to replace hinders folks inclination to decide
to sell theirs. But when they see one offered, they think maybe I should
sell mine too.
On Sunday, May 31, 2020 at 9:36:06 AM UTC-7
Diverging further you might look into a soma wolverine
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I think "best" size is kinda dependent, though I'm not sure on what.
I'm about 5' 9" with a 84 or 85 pbh.
Before RBW did the SimpleOne, Kevin refused to sell me a sub 56 Quickbeam
(they only had smaller frames left) saying that would be too small and that
he might rather put me on a 58.
When pre
Andrew,
Where are you located?
I'm in the SF bay area (abt 20mi south of RBW) and have a seriously
underutilized 56 Simple One that I commuted on before I retired.
If you are anywhere near here maybe I should consider moving on.
regards
Ted Kelly
On Friday, May 29, 2020 at 6:46:46 AM
t's really not that bad to do yourself as the
change should be small enough to avoid altering the cables and housing.
Probably won't even need to undo the brake or shift cables.
ted.
On Sunday, May 24, 2020 at 9:35:19 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> Ha!
Oops, and re bar weight, buy the al ones, they will be lighter and since you
didn’t weigh your new wheels I’m guessing the particular numbers aren’t that
important to you. Hey you’ll “know” you made your bike lighter
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I doubt the narrower bars would make the stem feel different, and if it did I’d
bet on it seeming shorter which could be easily tweaked with a 60 stem
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ore you took everything to the shop. We're gonna want to know exactly
how many grams (or ounces) you've shaved off your ride. Similarly we (or
perhaps just I) want to know how many teeth your small chain ring and
largest cog have before and after.
ted
whos fondness for numbers a
This frame is gone, picked up today by the first person to express interest.
Thanks to everybody who expressed interest.
On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 12:21:42 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:
>
> I'd like to find a new home for this frame. Its too small for me to ever
> use again, and its been
I'd like to find a new home for this frame. Its too small for me to ever
use again, and its been in the garage for years now. I'm hoping that since
Nobilette builds some frames for RBW these days offering it here won't be
too far off topic.
What it is:
This is a Mark Nobilette built frame I bou
Re: association of tubulars with "roadies"
I guess really the association should be with "racers" though I think some
folks use of the term "roadie" implies a MCFRB riding racer wana be. Back
in the day high performance meant tubulars, but mostly only racers or racer
wana bees bothered with them
So Bill, are those latex tubbed, and are you cutting em open and patching when
you get flats?
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Yes but roadies are fools. The best moderate width tires give a nice ride but
I’ve never ridden a 23mm clincher that rides near as well as a good hand made
racing sew up. Never got a pinch flat on a sew up either.
I think the European pros still race on tubulars. Of course their employers pay
fo
Ahh, slush. Grew up with it, don’t miss it.
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Even pre covid I noticed that drivers accustomed to driving slower than they
would like due to traffic seem to drive as possible. Absent traffic the foot
goes to the floor.
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When faced with this situation I’ve gone with mounting on the left side. This
lights up more pavement since one rides on the right side of the lane. However
mounting on the right would give shadow free illumination of the road edge, so
you might prefer that.
This is why I’m so disappointed they
Shouldn’t that emoji have a one finger salute?
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most
> reliable bike possible. Extensive field testing has shown me that 99% of
> tubeless flats can be fixed without a tube, faster, and easier than with a
> tube. To me that's a win for my customers. Add in the lighter weight,
> lower tire pressures and ability to run softe
skewer damaged, or is this just another
idiosyncrasy of a very idiosyncratic bicycle?
Regards
Ted S
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Someone I won't name, because he should be gratefully honored for his
contributions and definitely never hectored about such trivia, wrote he
could think of at least 11 steps to mounting a tube in a tire off the top
of his head.
I only think of 10.
Put a layer of rim tape on the rim
Put o
Careful Biil. Don't be accused of inciting murder, cause I'll wager that
owner is in the "pry it from my cold dead hands" department..
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Sorry, I guess I'm just too dense to grasp implicit assumptions in 160 post
threads that wander about a bit. Some of the recent posts have an ok boomer
feel with a side of righteous certainty about the absolute superiority of
tubeless over tubes the denial of which could only be explained by the
"But the reality is tubeless has weight and tire advantages that are
noticeable on a ride, ..."
I keep reading assertions like this, but I don't see how its true.
Re weight:
I have two 650b bikes. One is tubeless the other has tubes. The tubes I use
are 108gr (aka 3.8oz) schwalbe SV14 extralight
My slightly dissenting take:
Listening to folks explain how easy setting up tubeless tires is reminds me
of when I used to tell folks gluing on tubular racing tires was no big deal.
Though I never use a higher pressure to avoid pinch flats, I never get
them. I mean in the last 2 decades I think
On any corner with the slightest chance of a pedal strike I’m either pedaling
or have the outside foot down. Pedals at 3 and 9 is strictly for going straight
(or sometimes through wide sweeping turns on fast descents).
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"My “local hardware store” is a totally indifferent Home Depot ..."
Ouch that's rough. There are at least two hardware stores in my town that
have a nice selection of metric stainless steel hardware. Nylon spacers too.
On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 7:00:09 PM UTC-7, Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
>
Get an instagram account??
Get off my lawn!
Or some such
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Joyce, you’ve likely thought of this but just in case ...
My sister puts her large Clem l on her hitch rack one end at a time. That way
she never lifts the full weight of the bike at once. Still awkward, but
somewhat more manageable.
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Masmojo, I am confused. What is not the case with a Clem?
On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 6:38:59 PM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>
> Ted, you are right both can be achieved (usually at high cost) if that is
> the goal, that's just not the case with a Clem.
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Masmojo wrote:
"it's designed around being a comfortable, smooth, stable ride & in that
context light weight is sort of antithema."
I'm not sure what antihema means but I think the implication is that light
weight is somehow at odds with a comfortable, smooth, stable ride.
I don't think that
ways a personal optimum. Don't let anyone else tell
you you are wrong.
Next up, the search for just the perfect gearing/drive train (yet another
rabbit hole).
On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 3:28:43 PM UTC-7, Roberta wrote:
>
> On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 12:42:07 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
&
I have a Hilsen badged Saluki (SA### stamped bottom bracket). Even sized pre
MIT Hilsens are Saluki in disguise. But the larger sized Saluki were lost in
the consolidation. Largest 650b Hilsen is a 58cm.
I think most Saluki were side pull and the canti ones are kinda rare.
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On the other hand 2” (51mm) tires seem like overkill for a light rider on
anything resembling a road or mup. Going to 1.75” (45mm) seems like a good call
for non Clydesdale folks not bombing over ruts and boulders. Heck 1.5” (38mm)
would probably work fine, even if they might look a bit lost in
For true weight weeniedom you need to get out a kitchen scale and weigh the bag
and saddles. I suspect leaving off the bag saves more weight than swapping to a
no spring saddle.
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Just buy some thick soled shoes (e.g. keen sandals).
Cause you neeed it.
Yesss you dooo
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And red spoke nipples too
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Son wide flange? Wide flange -> shorter axel stubs-> better aesthetics.
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re: The thing with tubeless is that IF I get a flat I feel like it’s gonna
be more trouble (maybe due to inexperience. )
I had similar concerns. After a bit of googling i've opted for carrying a
repair kit with: one tube, two tire levers, a few tire plugs, and a plug
tool.
To be more ready for
I had a similar experience. I was commuting on my simple one with battery
lights and thought that was just fine. I saw a pair of used single speed
wheels with a son hub for sale on the list here and decided to give the
dynamo thing a try. I found I appreciated the set it and forget it nature
of
Congratulations, way to go.
Now, quick before you forget how frustrating that was, order yourself a nice
collapsible free standing work stand.
It should last you a lifetime, and will prove well worth the $$. Honest, a
decade from now you will be so glad you did.
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on't already have a nice floor pump with an integrated gauge,
buy one immediately. They last a long time and are way worth it.
regards
ted
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 4:46:18 PM UTC-7, Roberta wrote:
>
> *Joe and Franklin*--Is the compressor for only originally seating the
> tir
No argument, though how do you feel about Romance languages where everything is
gendered?
With boats I’d say it’s just cultural tradition dating way back, and any
rationalization would likely seem sexist.
Alls I’m saying is I think the notion that giving a conveyance a female name
makes it ill s
I’ve long thought it odd that boats are female but bikes aren’t.
Have you ever known a guy who wouldn’t own a boat with female name?
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tires I'd say giving the
tubeless thing a go is probably a good idea.
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 8:26:38 AM UTC-7, Roberta wrote:
>
> James, I guess I listen too. :) I just imagine tubeless goo all over
> the place if it leaks. Let's talk. Also, black sidewalls, no
Which should be motivating you to do that experiment.
Ride your bike, weigh it, strip off the bags, racks, fenders, kick stand,
etc., weigh it again, and ride it again.
Note how many lbs you removed and how different (or similar) the striped
bike is to the original configuration.
On Wednesday,
James wrote "If I could convince her to go tubeless, we'd save another 200+
grams... "
James would you mind breaking that down, and detailing what you are
including in each alternative?
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 6:57:03 AM UTC-7, James / Analog Cycles
wrote:
>
> The wheels we're buildin
I think there was only one batch of 200mm bullmoose bars, with all the others
being 150mm. I suspect they are rare and am glad to have one. Similarly I’m
glad I snagged a chocomoose before they were all gone (apparently for good).
As others have observed elsewhere, if rbw has something you want b
Looks to me like you got the stand over from the 53 row.
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Aren't cycle cross tires (uci sanctioned anyway) restricted to something
like 33 or 35mm?
I think I've read that pro mtn bikers also use tubulars, though I've never
seen em for sale. Perhaps they exist but are not generally available.
Back in the early 90's when I was still riding sew ups (got m
As one who is prone to arguing that shaving a few lbs off a bike won’t make you
all that much faster up a hill, let me clarify that I’m all in favor of making
your bike light enough to pick up easily. Particularly if you have to lift it
frequently.
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True, dat
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Joe,
Ibid, and god bless. Have a great ride.
On Monday, March 30, 2020 at 12:45:29 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Hey Ted,
>
> We could argue about this for days and drive everybody crazy, but we're
> probably all a little crazy from the coronavirus lockdown already so
ction model (as is your case). But hey
even just wanting those custom lugs, that head badge, and "Rivendell" on
the down tube could be reason enough.
I look foreword to seeing photos of your new custom soon.
Ted, my cycling left "need" behind long ago, Kelly
Alameda County C
I completely agree that there are a host of good reasons to get a RBW
custom, including "i want thinner tubes cause it's lighter and I just like
knowing that my bike is a bit lighter and not unnecessarily stout".
On Monday, March 30, 2020 at 11:39:02 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Also, I beli
less discerning than the average rider, but I regularly go on
group rides where everybody else is on MCFRBs and I'm on a 19, 21, or 24 lb
bike and I find what my numbers suggest quite plausible.
On Monday, March 30, 2020 at 11:20:37 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ted, it's a matter
es) If Leah is looking for something that "feels"
> substantially different than her Clem L, and the Betty didn't provide it,
> I'm not at all certain a Cheviot will, even with fancy tires and red paint.
>
> On Sunday, March 29, 2020 at 2:34:49 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
Leah,
I encourage you to try and avoid getting wrapped up in frame weight worries.
Though I'm not immune to bouts of weight weeniesm (I've got a sub 19lb
black mountain and my AHH is under 21lbs) I think bike weight is at best a
third order effect, and frame weight is only part of total bike wei
My 700x35 shod 57 FJsr feels light plush and zippy.
My 650x38 shod 56 toyo AHH also feels light plush and zippy.
I suspect we tend to make too much of wheel size.
That said, aesthetically I really like the proportions on my AHH and if the
wheels were 700c and all else equal the head tube would l
Decades ago when top tubes were horizontal and wheels were either 27” or 700c,
going by seat tube length sizing worked. These days not so much. It only lets
you figure out if you can get the seat to the height you want and how long a
post you will need.
I think the larger two sizes of Clem Ls ha
Jim has already given you all anybody really needs. But I’ll add a few
thoughts/suggestions anyway.
If you are going to obsess over gear charts do measure the actual
radius/circumference or your wheel inflated to the pressure you ride with you
on the bike.
When making changes to a bike you are
Well it’d be cheep and easy to give it a try and see if it works well for you.
If your concerned abut chain dropping you could use an fd as a chain guide.
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I think it is more incumbent on the rest of us to evaluate dp’s reliability as
a source for such guidance than it is for him to self censor his views.
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When I was fairly young (pre teen I’m pretty sure) I took a judo class at the
ymca. The first thing they focused on was “learning to fall”. Of course I
can’t be sure but I suspect that that early training is part of the reason I’ve
been lucky enough to get through several “unplanned get offs” o
I have used trainers in the past. The bored to tears thing was a real problem.
I listened to music. Some folks watch videos. These days there is also zwift
which gives a virtual group riding game like aspect to the endeavor.
Aside from boredom, riding trainers also can get painful as folks tend
Broke my wrist in mid December. Surgery, plates, 'external fixators', and some
hydromorphone.
Hit buckled pavement by a bus stop, caused by heavy buses coming and going over
the years.
Off the bike since then. Jst about ready to start commuting again.
I was riding an 88 MB-2 with 2.3" tires a
Over the 50 some years I’ve been riding I’ve “crashed” numerous times. But
rather than relate tales of those I’d like to sing the praises of bump and
touch drills. I encountered these when riding with a racing focused club but
I’d hope other types of clubs or clinics do such things. Im no great
using a spacer (riv sells nice ones though they are currently out of stock) and
a longer bolt allows the rack strut to clear the fork blade without needing to
go flush along the fork end (aka drop out) between the qr axel and the end of
the fork blade. We’re you to do that you would likely find
Rotate the qr so it’s not over the mounting bolt, get a longer bolt and a
spacer so the rack mount stay can clear the fork blade.
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Front fenders are much more problematic than rear ones. A friend of mine
recently picked up a stick with her front tire which lodged under her front
fender. She is now recovering from a broken arm and can’t ride (except on an
indoor trainer). I once had a rear fender accordion up against the rea
Bill, did your red lugged stem have nitto’s usual dull bright finish to begin
with? Also who painted it?
Thnks
Ted
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Normally there are a pair of wires that plug into the dyno hub which must be
disconnected when removing the front wheel. With the right hub and fork ends
the connection is made through the surfaces of the fork ends.
Check the Rene Herse web site
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fra
Your mental Philip.
I've got two ss bikes I like a lot, but I'd not take either of em to that
hill. I prefer having access to a 1-1 (e.g. 28t ring with 28t cog) gear on
that climb.
On Thursday, January 16, 2020 at 7:30:25 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> Oh yeah, I knew I was boned when I
I have an early AHH (56 so 650b).
I regularly take it on group rides where everybody else is riding a MCFRB.
Works great. Ive also done plenty of rides with it that those folks think need
a mtn bike. Also works great. My wife has a Sam. I believe that build choices
make a much bigger difference
Bill,
At the risk of going badly off topic ...
I think you’ve bought a BMC road+ too, how do you see that vis a vi the
monstercross? Do you think you will keep both?
If I’m running off the rails here feel free to ignore, and my apologies to one
and all
Thnks
Ted
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Found out about Rivendell around 2000 when’s researching a new bicycle
Pulled the trigger in 2003 for a Quickbeam based on Sheldon Brown’s articles
The Quickbeam showed up in 2004
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surprised when I read how different you found the Roadini and Roadeo to be,
and it left me wondering if the Black Mountain was functionally more like
one or the other or maybe someplace in between.
again, thanks for the info
ted
On Sunday, January 12, 2020 at 5:45:04 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote
Thanks Bill. Could you also expound on how the black mountain road (not plus)
relates to the Roadini and Roadeo?
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Again my mistake.
As regards center pulls, post mounted or otherwise, or for that matter dual
pivots with respect to v brakes I think choice of levers, aesthetics, or even
just finding no defect in the non v brake alternative are reasons enough for a
person to prefer non v brakes.
Which is not
Sorry that was not my intention, so I apologize.
My bad.
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Because the levers they like aren’t for v brakes?
Or they don’t see any significant down side to cantilever brakes?
Or they prefer the aesthetics?
I’ve yet to understand what the advantage of v brakes is.
Sure they work fine, but (in my experience) so do other kinds.
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It amazes me that anyone can remember the Bell V1 fondly. I remember mine,
but fondness most definitely is not a word I'd associate with those
recollections.
On Friday, December 13, 2019 at 10:33:47 AM UTC-8, John McClusky wrote:
>
> Wow! Wish I’d had that when I was racing mountain bikes back
With cantilever posts too me thinks.
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Actually in the SF Bay Area half mits without gloves under are the bees knees.
Keep your fingers from getting cold when you start out, and easily slip you
fingers out if they start to get too warm. For descents or clouds blocking
nature’s heat lamp that start to chill your didgits, just slip em
Also depends if it’s going on the bars or on the saddle.
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Frank Jones Sr. ?
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ht
Orange seal comes with a handy dip stick for periodically checking sealant
level.
It has a roughly 1 inch serrated surface on the end. Should the sealant be
that deep (i.e. 1")? Half that?
I'm looking for guidance on how deep is good to go and how deep means time
to add some more
ith a "big" ring as small as a 42 the tail of the front
derailer cage may hit the chainstay before its as low as it should be. An
extra short cage fd like the gevenalle avoids that.
Ted
who doesn't think he's hardly ever been dropped because he didn't have a
big enough
Ditto what Bill says.
I saw one of these in the flesh on mnt diablo at the junction a while back.
Really gorgeous bike.
On Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 12:58:13 PM UTC-8, Roberta wrote:
>
>
> https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/d/brooklyn-rivendell-romulus-cantilever/7023094998.html
>
> NY
soon after
initial setup and then go to less frequent checks, or just always check
every ?? months?
TIA
ted
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I suggest you base your choice on non weight factors.
E.g.
Which head badge do you like better,
Which name do you like better,
Which stem style do you prefer (for reasons like ease of adjustment, security
of clamping, availability of stems, etc)
What the seat post diameter is, and are there posts
For big rings with fewer than 46 teeth I'd recommend either the Gevenalle
BURD or the IRD Sub C front derailleurs
i.e.
https://www.gevenalle.com/product/burd-front-derailleur/
or
http://www.interlocracing.com/shifters-derailleurs/sub-c-front-derailleur-double
The BURD FD has a shorter cage than
I believe that toyo built AHHs have a third set of bottle mounts on the bottom
on the down tube, and others don’t.
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Yep, now that’s a nice plan. Expensive, but nice.
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