In a message dated 7/6/03 3:46:21 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Whenever I have to solder SS, I just do it. >>
A trick some may not know about soft soldering SS with ordinary tin/lead
solders is to use a grinding wheel in a Dremel tool. Run the wheel on the solder
till the wheel is loaded
teve
> -Original Message-
> From: Steve Shyvers [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 1:32 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> Subject: Re: Flux and Brass (was NOT Silversoldering Stainless Steel)
>
> Royce,
>
> The tank I was w
At 01:31 PM 7/11/03 -0700, you wrote:
>Also many years ago when I worked on wooden boats I remember removing a
>small woodscrew from some trim on a boat's cabin. The screw was a pink
>color and didn't look very solid. I mashed the screw to dust between my
>fingers. My analysis was that the screw
Royce,
The tank I was working on was made of K&S brass strips. I believe that
these are "C-260" brass, which according to Small Parts Inc. is
nominally 70% copper and 30% zinc. (For "nominally" read "supposed to be".)
Many years ago a metallurgist colleague referred to brass as a scrap
metal.
OK, I have been following a lot of this discussion in the background and I
guess that my limited experience might help. In soft soldering non-ferrous
metals, the heat can be a major problem. When lead or zinc contacts something
like brass, zinc, copper, silver, and gold it has the adverse reac
This may be a "dumb" question, but are you sure of the alloy of the
"brass"? I've gotten snookered by thinking one metal was something
else. ie 1018 was O-1.
royce in SB
Harry Wade wrote:
At 08:17 AM 7/11/03 -0700, you wrote:
I promise to try the Sta-Silv on some brass again to see what th
At 08:17 AM 7/11/03 -0700, you wrote:
>I promise to try the Sta-Silv on some brass again to see what the effect
>is.
Steve,
This is all very strange because I wouldn't suspect that any of the
materials mentioned are agressive or caustic enough, either together or
seperately, even with heat, t
Steve Shyvers wrote:
Thanks, Harry. I bow to your superior wisdom and knowledge, and, most
of all, to your willingness to share it.
Regards,
Steve
Nice to have someone so nice having the last word more often than not.
It's always clear that Harry has taken more time in crafting his
comments
Fair enough, Harry.
I was soft soldering an Alpha Metals 2% silver/98% tin solder. The
"proper" flux is a water-soluble liquid zinc chloride and hydrochloric
acid solution also from Alpha, and packaged in a plastic squeeze tube.
I was using a plain propane torch with a small flame. The temperat
At 09:12 PM 7/10/03 -0700, you wrote:
>Harry, are you listening?
Steve,
Like I said, . . nonsense. It's very dangerous to be an "expert"
which is why I don't care to own such nameplates. This is a mystery to me,
I've never seen or heard of such behavior before. I'd like more
information.
Richard,
I had a similar experience with Sta-Silv and brass. I had just bought
the Sta-Silv and thought I'd get fancy and use it to do a soft soldering
job (2% silver). I was soldering up a small tank, and as I proceeded to
solder the sheet brass started to disappear. I wound up with an oval
h
Yes, I went through three oxygen cylinders at about $8 each (and that was about
7 or 8 years ago) when silver soldering a 1 5/8" dia. x 6" long copper boiler
with a 7/8" dia. steam dome. I managed to get the job done, albeit somewhat
sloppy, i.e. way too much alloy. I also melted the corner of th
At 05:03 PM 7/10/03 -0700, you wrote:
>I just soldered a new bushing into a fuel tank for a venting filler
>I think the flux ATE the brass bushing
Richard,
Not knowing any more than I do about the conditions/materials I'd say
the bushing got too hot. The line between silver solder flow temp
At 04:33 PM 7/10/03 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks, Harry. I bow to your superior wisdom and knowledge,
>Steve
Well, all I'll admit to is having read or been told a bit more about
other's experiences than the average bear, being able to remember and
regurgitate it on demand, and then having tried
I just soldered a new bushing into a fuel tank for a venting filler
valve. I tossed all my old flux when I had to pack up my tools a few
years ago. I remembered that Borax could be used for flux. Mixed some
up. Cleaned all parts, fluxed, set bits of solder around... torched
it up.
I think the
Thanks, Harry. I bow to your superior wisdom and knowledge, and, most of
all, to your willingness to share it.
Regards,
Steve
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
At 03:43 PM 7/10/03 -0700, you wrote:
Harry, would it be more correct to say that you were trying to break the
surface tension of the mol
At 03:43 PM 7/10/03 -0700, you wrote:
>Harry, would it be more correct to say that you were trying to break the
surface tension of the molten solder blob in order to make it run along the
joint?
Theoretically solders won't flow, or rather wet, because the flux has
broken down or was inadequat
Royce and Harry,
Thanks for the explanation about "scratch". Harry, would it be more
correct to say that you were trying to break the surface tension of the
molten solder blob in order to make it run along the joint?
I understand Royce's comment about the process failing if you have to
scratch
At 09:01 AM 7/10/03 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, maybe that's not the correct term,
It absolutely is the correct term, in fact there is such an animal as a
"scratch rod" for soft soldering. This is nothing more than a piece of
steel rod with a crook and a pointy end on it. It's used to scratch
th
Steve,
I had one of those when I worked as a maintenance man for a popular Pizza restaurant
chain (rhymes with mutt). The oxygen seamed to run out really fast. If you could get a
small refillable oxygen bottle to attach instead of the disposable one it might be
worth it.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Steve Shyvers wrote:
Royce,
What is the operation that you refer to as "scratch"?
Well, maybe that's not the correct term, but it would refer to
"encouraging" the silver solder to flow where it doesn't seem inclined
to go by means of a wire used to "scratch" or push the solder around.
PS
Royce,
What is the operation that you refer to as "scratch"?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You don't need to "scratch". In my experience, if you've reached the
"scratch" point, the process has failed.
Steve
Has anyone tried the Bernzomatic Mapp/oxegen torch it retails for 50 USD
with disposable cylinders. For the amount of silversolderng I do in a year
even if I bought a couple of cylinders a year it would still be cost
effective. I know the cost of the gas would be higher in the little
cylinders bu
On 10/7/03 8:05 am, "Mike Chaney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I can explain volts / amps.
>> Volts = how fast the river is flowing
>> Amps = how wide it is
>
> I used to teach electronics to adults using the "water analogy" to explain the
> relationship between voltage, current, resistance e
Hi Robb.
Can an Oxy/acetylene torch be used to make a 2 1/2" boiler?
From what I have read, oxy/acetylene is too much heat for our purposes
unless you are welding.
I see in my
local paper a fellow has a used one for sale tomorrow at his garage
sale.
And I think that the turbo torch (acetylen
Robb wrote:
> I can explain volts / amps.
> Volts = how fast the river is flowing
> Amps = how wide it is
But ... but ... isn't volts the analogue of head, and amps the analogue of
flow rate? (volume per unit time?)
I'm tempted to delve deeper (how fast <=> propogation speed, how wide <=>
diame
> I can explain volts / amps.
> Volts = how fast the river is flowing
> Amps = how wide it is
I used to teach electronics to adults using the "water analogy" to explain the
relationship between voltage, current, resistance etc.. On one occasion, having
spent about twenty minutes going through my
Deep thoughts ...
At 08:14 PM 7/9/2003 -0400, you wrote:
I can explain volts / amps.
Volts = how fast the river is flowing
Amps = how wide it is
Robb who is an electrician in Michigan
Vance Bass wrote:
>
> Don't ask me how that works. I used to think I understood volts and
> amps, too, but I fin
I can explain volts / amps.
Volts = how fast the river is flowing
Amps = how wide it is
Robb who is an electrician in Michigan
Vance Bass wrote:
>
> Don't ask me how that works. I used to think I understood volts and
> amps, too, but I find that I can't explain them to my own satisfaction
> anymo
Hi,
The most important question is what size torch is it? Does it include a selection of
welding tips? Does it include a
cutting head? How old is it?
You can plan on paying for a rebuild of the hand piece and cutting head, say 75.00 to
100.00. The hand piece that will
work good for boiler
> Can an Oxy/acetylene torch be used to make a 2 1/2" boiler?
Pending a response from someone with more experience than I have,
here's what I know (a little firsthand, mostly from reading books):
Oxyacetylene burns at a higher temperature than propane. This could
potentially melt the copper yo
Can an Oxy/acetylene torch be used to make a 2 1/2" boiler? I see in my
local paper a fellow has a used one for sale tomorrow at his garage
sale. What might be a good price for such a unit? I don't know if it
will include the tanks.
I have tried the two fisted Mapp gas method but I need about tw
At 04:51 PM 7/8/03 -0500, you wrote:
>This may be a bit more than most people in gauge 1 need, but Sulphur Springs
>has a Sievert starter kit (29000-KIT) that has the regulator, hose, handle,
>and four cyclone tips for $250.00. The kit was put together for people
>building the 3/4" locomotives in
Harry Wade wrote:
> Michael,
> Visit your local professional plumbing and/or welding supply
house
> and ask what they have in an air/propane torch kits. Most of them will
> have only one, or maybe two, options and they'll be hanging on the wall
for
> quick access for walk-in traffic. Or
At 06:22 AM 7/8/03 -0700, you wrote:
>(snip) Someone recently told me that these
>systems are cheap and available (torch/hose/regulator). If he comes
>back with more than one, I'll let you know.
>royce in SB
Royce,
Cheap is relative of course, but I recently checked on a local price
Hi Michael. Since I borrowed mine, I'm not sure where you would get
one. But I would guess that you would get one at a welding supply
store. It looks like an acetylene torch but with only ONE hose (the air
is mixed in at the nozzle, just like a propane torch). And the tank is
usually a refi
Royce,
Absolutely post a picture please. And you're right about Mike Martin's
photography. Just don't drool on the keyboard. It makes a mess.
Steve
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Steve Shyvers wrote:
Royce,
You won't make it to the Summer Steamup? Arrgh!
I know, I know. But if I don't spend
At 08:25 PM 7/7/03 -0400, you wrote:
>OK, what is and where do you get a Turbo Torch?
>Thanks
>Michael
Michael,
Visit your local professional plumbing and/or welding supply house
and ask what they have in an air/propane torch kits. Most of them will
have only one, or maybe two, options a
OK, what is and where do you get a Turbo Torch?
Thanks
Michael
Florida
USA
Iron Nut
- Original Message -
From: "Steve Shyvers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 12:13 PM
Subjec
Steve Shyvers wrote:
Royce,
You won't make it to the Summer Steamup? Arrgh!
I know, I know. But if I don't spend some time with my honey, there'll
be hell to pay. (it's our anniversary that weekend). And since my
loco's not done, at least I'll be able to spend some of the time it
would
Royce,
You won't make it to the Summer Steamup? Arrgh! When will we all get to
see your boiler/waterpump/loco creation?
Steve
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Michael. Thanks for your input. I have heard many times of the
appropriateness of the Sievert system, but I just didn't want to go to
t
Mike Chaney wrote:
I don't understand the problem.
Hi Mike. thanks for responding. I don't know that there IS a problem.
I seem to remember seeing or reading something somewhere that indicated
silver soldering stainless steel was more problematic than other metals.
So I thought I would as
Harry Wade wrote:
At 10:44 AM 7/6/03 -0700, you wrote:
(snip) But I'm having a hard time
visualizing how one could solder a boiler WITHOUT using more than
propane (even MAPP gas) as a heat source.
royce
Royce,
That's probably because it can't be done,
Thanks for verifying my not
Hi Michael. Thanks for your input. I have heard many times of the
appropriateness of the Sievert system, but I just didn't want to go to
the expense right now. A friend had this turbo torch and assured me
that it would do the job of silver soldering my little boiler. He was
right. Worked l
Oxy/acetylene is also a heck of a lot cleaner, especially when used in my
"home" shop as compared to a my commercial shop. The O/A is a little
trickier to adjust when you start out, but not having that dense black cloud
of soot is worth the extra effort. It also seems like the joints are cleaner
to
In a message dated 7/6/03 12:46:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< I don't understand the problem. >>
Mike,
Actually, I was reflecting more when I built armatures for puppets in the
movie industry when I answered Royce. I always had to solder brass balls to the
ends of s
I don't understand the problem. Whenever I have to solder SS, I just do it.
The solder flows just the same as with brass, copper, steel, etc. and makes a
perfect joint. Maybe it's because I use Johnson Matthey "Easiflo 2" and its
complementary flux.
I suspect it's really a bit of a "bumblebee" -
At 10:44 AM 7/6/03 -0700, you wrote:
>(snip) But I'm having a hard time
>visualizing how one could solder a boiler WITHOUT using more than
>propane (even MAPP gas) as a heat source.
>royce
Royce,
That's probably because it can't be done, at least if using a single
typical hand-held propane
Hi Royce,
Enough propane burned per unit-time is one answer. I have the Sievert propane
setup and am very satisfied with its ability to bring large copper assemblies
(Gauge 1 boilers, etc.) to silver soldering temperature (1145'F for easyflow 45)
in a short enough time that the flux is not satura
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Royce,
It seems that cleanliness is, as
always, the most important thing with this material.
Yes
I use the black flux which is intended for stainless
After posting my question, I saw on the black flux directions that it is
intended for silver soldering stainle
Hi Royce,
I, personally, have trouble often with soldering stainless too. I assume
that your are intending to hard solder it. It seems that cleanliness is, as
always, the most important thing with this material. I have never had any success
unless I use the black flux which is intended for st
Check out silver solder (braze). There is a specific silver content and associted
fulx thatwill bond stainless steel.
On Sun, 06 Jul 2003 07:18:55 -0700, Royce Woodbury wrote:
->Hope all of you are enjoying the holiday. But since I'm taking a moment
->to work on my water pump, I thought I wo
Hope all of you are enjoying the holiday. But since I'm taking a moment
to work on my water pump, I thought I would ask whether anyone has any
advice on silversolding stainless steel.
Thanks,
royce in SB
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