Hello everyone.
Some years ago I wrote to Tom when he was still at Golfsmith trying to
persuade him to design Metal wood heads with interchangeable segments
on the sole and back so clubmakers could design custom fitted
swingweights ball flight position and COG.. This request was was
partly a result of having difficulty with building clubs for low
handicap ladies who wanted the larger titanium heads available for men
combined with .light weight shafts and D0 -D2 swingweights at 42''-43''
length.
Tom typically wrote me a very courteous letter explaining that
Golfsmith's emphasis at that time was geared to what they believed was
in most demand by clubmakers by offering "us" component brand names
like Snake Eyes and Killer Bee.
I still think this principle would be a winner for us.Strangely it
would be somewhat similar to attaching custom sole plates and back
weights to a persimmon wood.
Jeremy
Ed Reeder wrote:
Dan,
Even more help should be on the way to add headweight. On the Wishon
forum Tom announced that he is working with a company to produce
Tungsten (not lead) tip weights. I can't recall if the projected
number of grams was mentioned or not, nor when they will be available.
/Ed
Dan Neubecker wrote:
Hi Ted/Dave,
I have been trying short drivers lately with much success. I've found
that I can put quite a bit of weight into most driver hosels, by using
the round tungsten hosel port weights and sort of fashioning my own
hosel weight port. Many driver heads have hosel depths much deeper than
the minimum 1-1/4" needed to secure the shaft with epoxy. I often take
a 6g (about 3/8" long) or a 9g (about 1/2" long) tungsten hosel port
weight and add some lead tape wrapped around it to bring it up to a
diameter to snugly fit the hosel. The 1/2" lead tape fits exactly the
width of the 9g weight, but you have to trim the width of the lead tape
to fit the 6g weight. You can usually add a couple grams more into the
hosel by adding the lead tape and it serves to enlarge the diameter of
the tungsten weight, allowing it to fit snugly in the hosel without
rattle, etc. As long as the hosel is 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" deep, then doing
this still allows proper epoxy bonding between the shaft and the head,
by leaving the minimum 1-1/4". I just epoxy the combined weight into
the hosel when I install the shaft.
<snip>
