OK here are some of the things old guys like me did when we where looking for 
leaks. Check the pressure refief valve on the system side as well as the 
inspectors test valve. Any low point drains drum drips valve stem packing. 
Often it is not one leak but an accumulation of several small ones. On method 
is to place a balloon (don't laugh) over the outlet on the items above. Slow 
leaks will blow up the balloon even if you don't see any leaks using a leak 
detection solution. Section the system off and test each section one at a time. 
These methods work very well when being billed at Time and Material.


Mike Cabral

---- Ron Greenman <[email protected]> wrote: 
> You can leak air through the seat and out the ball drip. When you
> hydro it doesn't show because the clapper is up and the ball drip is
> closed unless you're hydroing against the clapper which is not
> recommended.
> 
> On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 8:47 AM, <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Maybe the leak isn't in the system piping but in the compressor piping to 
> > the system valve?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Craig L. Prahl, CET
> > Fire Protection Specialist
> > Mechanical Department
> > CH2MHILL
> > Lockwood Greene
> > 1500 International Drive
> > PO Box 491, Spartanburg, SC  29304-0491
> > Direct - 864.599.4102
> > Fax - 864.599.8439
> > [email protected]
> > http://www.ch2m.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [email protected] 
> > [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Tom Duross
> > Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2009 11:40 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: RE: Dry System Air Question
> >
> > Very little grooved, just repairs made in the last 10+ years.  It's all 
> > Sch40 threaded, 1"-4", threaded flanges.  This is just our 3rd year here, 
> > last year when we did a full flood we attached a pump and took it to 200 
> > looking for leaks but couldn't find anything.  I'm thinking the leak is 
> > concealed behind old plaster walls.  It does an unheated attic, traditional 
> > piping arrangement.  I'm guessing 40 years old with a 15 year old dry valve 
> > and compressor.  I'm told the compressor runs about once a day for a few 
> > minutes.  They lost power last Friday and the valve tripped about 4 AM on 
> > the 4th, I spent most of the morning chasing low points and resetting it.
> > The compressor was tripped out so I'm thinking it went out on overload from 
> > running so long, I did mention it shouldn't and suggested rewiring it to 
> > the generator.  It's a long term care facility right near NFPA in Quincy.  
> > I'm aware of the allowable leakage but sometimes (like this) have a hard 
> > time applying it.  I did consider a scent test but if we couldn't even find 
> > a drip at 200, would this help?
> > I'm getting splinters scratching my head but I have tweezers.
> > TD
> >
> >
> >
> > We have done this a couple times and have always replaced the compressor.
> > However, a word of warning inspired by learning the hard way. Assuming this 
> > is a grooved system, when you drop the pressure the entire thing can start 
> > leaking like a sieve.  Older couplings can be a little brittle and less 
> > resilient.  They just don't like to seal correctly under the lower pressure.
> >
> > Best of luck!
> >
> > Lori Kitchen
> >
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Ron Greenman
> Instructor
> Fire Protection Engineering
> Bates Technical College
> Tacoma, WA
> 
> Member:
> SFPE, ASCET, NFPA, AFSA, NFSA AFAA
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