Here is a link for the exact roofing material I used. I chose an aluminum 
colored roof for the (hopefully) enhanced reflective abilities (and the 
"paint" would never peel. :)  After placing my order (to be trucked in from 
another state) a local metal roofing supplier started producing an almost 
identical product. It was a bit more expensive per sqft, but it would have 
not wasted energy/money being  trucked in and would have been more in 
keeping with my sustainable goals.   This uses no "clips" to install it, 
thus it is simple enough for almost any construction crew- sort of like 
putting on vinyl siding.  Don't forget your Southern overhang, to block 
summer sun while allowing winter sun.
http://www.unaclad.com/products/sysview.asp?ID=31

In my search tonight I ran across this link it seems to be full of supplier 
possibilities.

http://www.zebroski.com/16-LINKS-CONSTRUCTION.htm#Section%207

While I am pleased thus far with the performance of my radiant floors, I am 
not sure I would get it again, especially in concrete.  I would prefer to 
have more access to the pipe . While building my house I met a man looking 
for someone to repair his system- 2/3's was non functional (leaky).  His 
also was encased in concrete with a marble tile covering. No one 
(plumber-HVAC) wanted to mess with it.  I felt bad for him, he seemed like 
a nice little old man, but my plumber wouldn't go either. He only helped 
with mine because he was my friend.

Also I am wondering about the efficiency of the system due to the way a 
concrete floor gets "poured" in reality.  Supposedly the concrete wire 
(which the pipe is attached to) gets pulled up to the middle of the floor 
as the concrete is being poured. As I watched however, I would say that 
speed certainly takes a priority, and would be surprised if in many places 
the wire is not sitting at the bottom of the pad. Also makes me wonder what 
happened to my under the floor foam insulation as it has been heated by 
this wire/pex every winter.   I had imagined walking on this heated floor 
would be like a big sun warmed rock. Uh, not so. The heat only goes out in 
strips- maybe 8" wide. Beside this warm strip, the floor is "stone" cold. 
:) Sort of odd to walk on w/o shoes , you find your kids walking on  the 
little 8"paths.  The room temperature is fine though.  In addition to the 
solar option, an outdoor wood stove can also be used as an option in 
suppling the heat for the pipes.

A feature I added was to put floor drains in almost every room. My plumber 
complained, and talked me out of a few (I should have held my ground) but I 
love them. It is so much easier than mopping up dirty water- and the water 
goes directly to the drain tile, not the septic system. (A weird code thing 
that happened to work out best for me.) Plus kids love to have a water gun 
fight inside to clean the floors ;)

Here is a link on a Net Zero housing experiment
http://web.mit.edu/energylab/www/se/proceedings/Kadam2001.pdf

Here is a link to Building Science's site.
http://www.buildingscience.com/topten/default.htm

  I went to one of his lectures and ordered his mixed climate book- some 
call him "the authority" on moisture proofing buildings.  I got my money's 
worth, if nothing else the book will wow your building inspectors, as you 
try to get some non mainstream stuff approved.  Along those lines, see if 
you can get you local inspector to go with you to a straw bale demo. Mine 
was willing , though I decided against using it.

  I HATE drywall. (Joe from Building Science adores it's draft sealing 
qualities, however)  It takes way too much labor, has too many steps- 
drywall, taping, sanding, painting.  It was the worst part of the project 
and potentially the most expensive.  ($23 a sheet- just labor,  2 years 
ago!)  But I found almost no reasonable, fire rated approved substitutes. 
The best we came up with was using metal roofing material for ceilings. We 
like a techy look so we used plain galvanized.   We limited it to the 
common areas, but have been really pleased. For most interior walls we used 
unfinished luon- difficult to match colors of wood, and holes are 
unrepairable, but I still like it better than painted drywall. Later we 
wished we had used white tile board- (dry erase board) in the children's 
rooms. This makes a great wall you can write and erase- tape won't hurt it 
either.

Here is my last link, I thought his ideas inspiring. I read about this 
place in Mother Earth News at the dentist

http://www.cmpbs.org/

Caroline


Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
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