Thanks,

John R. Crane

On Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 7:27 AM, John Thornton <bjt...@gmail.com> wrote:

> John,
>
> I'll dig out my schematic and make sure it is up to date and figure a
> way to post it to the list.
>
> John
>
> John Crane wrote:
> > John,
> >
> > I would like to know more about the way you have engineered your phase
> > converters.  I am in the process of adding this capability in my shop.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > John R. Crane
> >
> > On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 5:53 AM, John Thornton<bjt...@gmail.com>  wrote:
> >
> >
> >> I have three rotary phase converters. The are all using a potential
> >> relay for the start caps and a relay that pulls in the mains. So I don't
> >> have to hold the push button and if the power drops out for a few
> >> seconds the phase converter does not try and restart without the start
> >> caps. I've not had the fun of blowing anything up when building them.
> >> They are all balanced phase to phase within a couple of volts. However
> >> phase to phase the run caps are very different in order to get the
> >> voltage phase to phase to balance. I can post some details if anyone is
> >> interested...
> >>
> >> John
> >>
> >> Dave wrote:
> >>
> >>> Back when  I put my 10 hp phase converter together, I found some charts
> >>> on the web someplace about suggested capacitor sizing.   I found a
> cheap
> >>> supply of capacitors at Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio
> >>> and bought a small box of them.   I ended up using I believe, 4 - 330
> uf
> >>> 330 volt units as starting caps and 4- 135 uf run caps.    I use a push
> >>> button to start the motor and as long as I hold the button
> >>> down the starting caps are wired into the circuit.  When the motor
> spins
> >>> up I release the button.   I tried to use a voltage sensitive relay,
> >>> like the ones used on refrigeration systems and AC systems, but
> >>> it was not reliable probably due to the high current from the large
> >>> number of caps.  There is also a motor contactor that seals itself in
> >>> via the button push.   That way if the line power drops, the contactor
> >>> drops out and the converter idler motor and he
> >>> attached slave motors are powered down.
> >>>
> >>> The math relating to how this works gets even more complicated when you
> >>> consider the effects of hooking a 3 phase motor that you are going to
> >>> start (a slave motor)  across the the idling phase converter motor.
> >>> For a brief period of time, the idler motor becomes a generator.   The
> >>> rotor slows slightly and the energy in the rotor pumps power into the
> >>> three phases and spins up
> >>> the slaved motor.    It works very well.
> >>>
> >>> During experimentation, it is very obvious when more starting
> capacitors
> >>> are required as the motor will simply not spin up.
> >>> Adding more run caps helps balance the phases but they never really
> >>> fully balance.
> >>>
> >>> Safety glasses are very good idea when experimenting.    Starting caps
> >>> go off like firecrackers if you overstress them.    They are only
> >>> designed to be switched in for a few seconds.
> >>>
> >>> A source of cheap starting caps is a really good idea if you want to do
> >>> some phase converter experimentation.  I blew up several of them.
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>> On 3/14/2011 9:01 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thornton<bjt...@gmail.com>     wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri with
> a
> >>>>>> 3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all
> the
> >>>>>> math...
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>> Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math for
> >>>> you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.
> >>>>
> >>>> Jon
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
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> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
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