In message <[email protected]>, [email protected] writes
Never did solve the mystery, unless, possibly, had been wound those two bobbins with a different thread somehow. But if they were, it wasn't observable even with strong magnification.
Could they have formed the first pair wound, so that the thread had been more exposed to light and/or atmospheric conditions than that it covered on the reel?
As I've said to Susan off list, it is easy to make mountains out of molehills, and I think Jacqui you have repeated what I've always been taught - if the cloth is stretched across the pillow (I use glass headed pins at each side of the base of the pillow, out of the way of the bobbins, but easier to move the cover cloth down when need be) there should be little contact between it and the thread. I was taught that the purpose of the cover cloths was to protect the thread from catching on the edge of the pricking - the rough edge of card (or, historically, parchment) being more likely to damage the thread. Hence for Torchon we were taught to fully dress the pillow (cover cloths down each side of the pillow, covering the side edges of the pricking, and then an apron cloth under the bobbins (a U shaped hole, in other words). For Bucks, we were taught to use one well stretched cloth across the pillow.
Whether your threads touch the cloth or not will depend on how full the bobbins are, and how long the thread between the work and the bobbin - also, where you position your cover cloth in relation to the work. If it is too high up the pillow then the threads will make contact. Nearer to the bobbin it shouldn't.
But, over twenty years, I've had relatively few threads break - originally, it was down to over-tensioning - pulling too hard - I soon learnt to gently tension the threads as I worked, rather than going back and yanking them all afterwards (some stitches and threads do need that, but most don't). One cop of Campbell's Linen drove me up the wall for snapping - that piece got cut off and is now a peg doll's apron, and I haven't used that reel of thread since.
Thinking back on it. In Bucks, with DMC Broder Machine, I've had a few (less than can be counted on fingers!) threads untwist and fall apart (rather than snap), but not that many. More of a problem with my "current" Honiton piece is friction between the outside of the pillow bag where the pillow is stored and one of the cats walking over/past it! (Five threads so far, but I haven't touched that piece for about seven or eight years). Mostly with Honiton it is a case of over-tensioning fine cotton threads, which is why I use silk!
Bucks seems to use less thread than Torchon - I wonder if that is one of the reasons why a particular point on a length of thread might stay in contact with the edge of the cloth long enough to wear out, but I would very much doubt that that actually happens - unless the number of pairs is great enough for threads to stay in one place for very long periods between use. This won't be a "beginner" problem - most are afraid of using large numbers of bobbins!
In perspective, that is a very low percentage of thread breaks for the number of bobbins I've used in pieces over the years - certainly not enough to think that the cover cloth is to blame (or most threads would be weakened to that extent).
Threads that shred - think of your sewing machine - the ones that leave most dust after stitching a seam are the cheaper brands with short staple lengths - better quality thread doesn't shred, or if it does, not as much.
It is easy to get so bogged down on things like this that it takes away the pleasure of lacemaking - worrying so much that a thread is going to break if everything isn't "just so" can take away the relaxation aspect for a beginner, whereas most of us have subconsciously worked out why it happens for us and over time found ways of avoiding breaks. We also learn that when it does happen, replacing a broken thread isn't really a problem - meanwhile, the breaks get fewer and further between!
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