I wonder about the new Etek-R, and Etek-RT motors. First thing is they are
not the same design as the old etek. I don't know if this is true, but
someone said the "R" stands for radial gap. So, maybe no more solder melting
problem? Also, the RT listing at marselectriclls says "totally open, fan
cooled motor," so maybe it includes an internal fan?

Also, the RT can be run at 72v, and 125a continuous. That may be around 7800
watts output. The old etek could be run at 100 amps continuous per the
manufacturer spec of 6 hp continuous, and 48v.

John Bidwell did mention of an etek melting when being run at 72v and geared
for ~60 mph top speed. So, I think running an Etek-RT at 72v, and gearing
for 50 mph top speed on a light bike should be fairly abuse proof, unless
you are trying hard to overheat the motor.

Regards,
Andrew in NM

On Tue, Apr 22, 2008 at 12:14 PM, damon henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> I still cringe everytime someone recommends an Etek motor.  Yes you can
> save about 25 lbs over an ADC 6.7" motor, but they just have such a small
> margin for error in this application that you are always flirting with a
> motor meltdown.  A bad choice in gear ratios, I little too much time pulling
> a hill, or overaggressive acceleration is all it takes to heat the solder to
> the point where things start to fly apart.  The ADC style motors are
> practically bulletproof in this application.
>
> damon
>
>
>
>
>  ------------------------------
> To: listserv@electricmotorcycles.net
> Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 13:42:41 -0400
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [ElectricMotorcycles] Choosing a bike for conversion
>
>
> Sorry for the duplicate post. This one is complete.
>
> Hello Sri,
> My daily driver is a 1994 Kawasaki Ninja EV, previously an EX500. It
> weighs just north of 500 pounds sans rider with an ADC 6.7" (50 #s) and 72
> volts of Optima yellow top AGMs ((265#s) including controller and onboard
> charger.
>
> Want to know what I'd build in your shoes based on my actual driving
> expereince of John Bidwell's ElMoto (e.g fun factor)?
>
> A modern 125cc to 200cc drit bike/enduro. I'd target the completed weight
> to be less than 300#s which shouldn't be a problem with an Etek type motor
> and Lithium Phospate batteries.
>
> - Mike Bachand
> Denver Electric Vehicle Council
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sri Subramanian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: listserv@electricmotorcycles.net
> Sent: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 7:28 pm
> Subject: [ElectricMotorcycles] Choosing a bike for conversion
>
>  Hi everyone,
>
> I am a newbie in this vocation, and I am considering what bike to buy for
> this project.
>
> I've read the 'El Ninja' book, listened in on your conversations and
> checked out conversions on the Austin EV site, and it looks to me like I
> need to pick a bike with these criteria:
>
> [I am assuming that the bike I convert won't be freeway capable, so about
> 50 mph max and < 50 mile range max]
>
> 1. Light, light, light. Trim as much as possible.
> 2. Minimal rolling resistance (and won't hurt to be aerodynamic as well).
> 3. Have enough space under tank for batteries (I am thinking LiFePO4, so
> not too much worry there).
> 4. Modern (so decent suspension, brakes) and common make, model (so parts
> easy to get).
>
> So, my first issue is: how does one estimate the weight of a bike when the
> motor is out. E.g. how much heavier is say, a Ninja 500 rolling chassis over
> a Ninja 250 one? Does it matter enough to be a consideration?
>
> If I want to take my first criterion seriously (and am not worried about
> freeway speeds) would I not want to get an even smaller CC bike, 125cc say a
> dual-sport bike? More generally, are there any gotchas with using an on-off
> road chassis (presuming I can switch out the knobby tires)? Of course, these
> bikes are less aerodynamic than the sport bikes, so that's a downside.
>
> I've also considered a Yamaha YSR 50 or Derbi GPR 50 chassis, but comfort
> may be an issue on those bikes.
>
> Thanks for any feedback!
> Sri Subramanian
>  ------------------------------
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