Indeed I do dig.  If I only knew... I might have had an easier time... with
the series 1 I think I was dealing with a few less per module, must have
been why it worked out for me.  It might have been the only one available in
the quantity I needed.

On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 9:53 AM, pete <[email protected]> wrote:

> hey frank -
> i did... i wiggled one on there (one meaning not both the 10 and 12
> position at the same time) while the card was out.. it was def. not an easy
> fit. so with 4 in place on the mother board there is just no way to rock the
> card back and forth to get the thing to mate correctly. i was using enough
> force to get me to the point of thinking "this can't be right" ... we all
> have experienced this point while working on something ... dig?
>
> anyone else on the list here have a known correct replacement for series
> IIIc modules? the receptacles are def. a bit bigger in the originals. see
> photo attached. i will be talking to a tech at digi-key later and see what
> they say. and i'll report back.
>
> 1000 thanks...
>
> pete
>
>
>
> On May 21, 2011, at 1:56 AM, Frank Moscowitz wrote:
>
> I feel partially responsible for that mishap - the not fitting - the ones I
> put in my Series 1 fit the pins a bit snugly, but it wasn't impossible to
> get things to mate - some force was required though - IIRC on that series
> III the connectors felt a little loose... have you tried test fitting some
> on a module outside of the board?
>
> FM
>
> On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 11:31 PM, pete <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> UGH
>>
>> the molex connectors i ordered don't fit. they are the correct dimensions
>> except for the receptacles... the holes are too small for the card
>> connectors. i did a pair of channels and just could not get the cards to
>> seat AT ALL. i fear that the correct part may not be available anymore or
>> something like that... time to talk to digi-key on the phone!
>>
>> well... i guess for the time being i'll put the old ones back in (before
>> cleaning them really well) and i'll see if that fixes these 2 channels.
>>
>> -pete
>>
>>
>> On May 20, 2011, at 7:26 PM, Jim wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Hi Pete,
>> >
>> > IMO, best to stick with Iso and follow what Ike noted. He also gave a
>> great treatment on how to identify bad solder joints; pay close attention!
>> Using D5 or some of the other stuff can end up causing the type of mess you
>> previously posted on the top side of the mother board. It will leave a
>> lubricant/protection residue (good *inside* pots and switches, but bad on
>> the surface of things) that will attract dust, dirt, etc. over time.
>> >
>> > There used to be some really great cleaning, treating and lubricating
>> chemicals on the market but some of them were really toxic and probably are
>> what killed off many of my brain cells............TCE, DCE, and such.
>> >
>> > About the most "harsh" stuff I use anymore is Acetone. It does a pretty
>> decent job of removing flux residue (if you scrub with an old tooth brush
>> well), but it can also dissolve and even melt some type of
>> plastics...........always test on a tiny portion before using! It's very
>> flammable too, stay ventilated and  be careful.
>> >
>> > A couple years ago on the list, someone had mentioned a
>> cleaner/treatment for pots and switches............."stabil...something"? I
>> think you'd buy a xx quantity and then dilute with water before using? Or
>> could have been on the Ampex list, (see what I mean about brain cells?).
>> >
>> > Regards, Jim
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > At 03:25 PM 5/20/2011, you wrote:
>> >> so is isopropyl alcohol the way to go here?
>> >>
>> >> pete
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> On May 20, 2011, at 2:59 PM, Ike Zimbel wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >
>> >> > Proceed with caution. I just had a chat about this yesterday with a
>> colleague in Nashville. I own some D-5, and I very rarely use it. It is a
>> very powerful oxide remover, and should probably be removed with isopropyl
>> after use. Check the CAIG web site and follow their instructions. I prefer
>> to use G-5 (ProGold) in small quantities for this sort of thing, and F-5 for
>> pots and switches.
>> >> > best,
>> >> > Ike
>> >> >
>> >> > On 11-05-20 2:42 PM, pete wrote:
>> >> >> what is the collective thought on Deoxit D5 on this type of cleaning
>> we have been talking about (to resolve intermittency issues)? i have a can
>> of that on hand actually.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> -pete
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On May 20, 2011, at 11:08 AM, Donald Put wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >>> In addition to all the fine advice Matt and Ike shared, I've found
>> oxidized IC pins/sockets at times when going through my Series II.  I've
>> also found ICs with bent pins that "curled" up when someone pushed them in
>> but were touching the socket just enough to get an intermittent connection.
>>  Granted, this is a rare problem but it's one I've seen a few times.  When
>> you pull a channel out, take the time to remove the IC (if they're socketed
>> on a Series III), clean the pins/sockets, and reinstall.  Even if this isn't
>> the immediate problem it will go a long way to help you avoid more issues in
>> the long run.
>> >> >>>
>> >> >>> Cheers,
>> >> >>> --
>> >> >>> Don
>> >> >>>
>> >> >> ------
>> >> >>
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>> >> >>
>> >> >
>> >> > --
>> >> > Ike Zimbel,
>> >> > Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
>> >> > Toronto
>> >> > 416-720-0887
>> >> >
>> >> > "Studio House Calls". Authorized Warranty service for Allen&  Heath,
>> Clear-Com, Drawmer, Soundcraft, SPL and Yamaha. Repairs and upgrades to
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>> >> > www.zimbelaudio.com
>> >> >
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>
>
>
>

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