Under florescent lighting the colour changes as Godfrey suggests but to take it a little further the problem occurs mainly at shutter speeds shorter than a half cycle of the local mains frequency in the case of conventionally driven florescent lighting. CFLs and some new batons with electronic ballasts drive the tubes at a much higher frequency and so are far less problematic to shoot under.
On 26 April 2014 13:26, John <jsessoms...@nc.rr.com> wrote: > What white balance do you have your camera set to? In many ways it doesn't > matter which one you choose as long as you choose a specific one and *NOT* > auto white balance. > > Auto white balance in the camera will change the white balance for every > image. > > If you choose a specific white balance, even if it's the wrong one, all of > the images will be the same. You get the first one color corrected and all > the rest can be synchronized to it. > > ... until you go into another room or go outdoors. > > But still, you color correct the first one in the group & synchronize all > the rest from that group to the first one. > > One thing is to carry a gray-card. Get yourself one of these: > > http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/101853-REG/Delta_22030_Gray_Card_8x10_1.html > > (The URL probably doesn't wrap correctly. I'm still searching for where to > turn flowed text on.) > > Anyway, cut it into quarters & carry one-quarter in your pocket. Let one of > the kids hold it up for you in your first shot for the group. When it wears > out, use another quarter ... until all of them are worn out. > > You can use the white-balance eye-dropper tool to color correct the photo > that has the gray card in it & then synchronize the rest of the images taken > in the same light to that first one. > > > On 4/25/2014 6:19 AM, Eric Weir wrote: >> >> >> I don’t understand what it is. I don’t understand how it works. In >> some cases I don’t know how to get the results I want. >> >> This is an album of images taken mostly in a classroom, the same >> classroom, the same day, over a period of about an hour and a half. >> >> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/eeweir/13974421313/in/set-72157644174507442/> >> As you can see, the coloring differs widely across the images. I >> tried to get them to come out the same without success. >> >> Since posting these I’ve gone back to the images in LR and changed >> the WB setting to auto and increased the exposure on a couple >> slightly. That gives me the best most consistent results. But “auto” >> leaves me completely in the dark. What could *I* have done to achieve >> the same results? >> >> While I’m at it, could someone please explain to me what the options >> under the fluorescent setting—D, N, W, L—are? I don’t see that it >> makes any difference what setting I use. And I generally don’t like >> the results I get with any fluorescent setting. >> >> Thanks, >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> > Eric Weir >> >> Decatur, GA USA eew...@bellsouth.net >> >> "Our world is a human world." >> >> - Hilary Putnam >> >> >> >> >> > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > PDML@pdml.net > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and > follow the directions. -- Rob Studdert (Digital Image Studio) Tel: +61-418-166-870 UTC +10 Hours Gmail, eBay, Skype, Twitter, Facebook, Picasa: distudio -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
