Yeah, a grey card isn't the best solution ever, but it sure beats hoping that the white shirt you are trying to get a WB reading off of is really a good white and won't color cast the picture itself. In desperation it works better than nothing, but a grey card will at least give you a mostly consistent WB source. I've used the x-rite one before that is huge and found it to not be 100% pure grey. I don't know if it picked up a color cast in the studio under tungsten lights over time or not, but it's still pretty darned close. The best neutral grey I've seen is the color munki's camera calibration swatch. Those grey patches are pretty reliable. The color munki software makes better profiles with their target than adobe's dng profile creator too, for those that have a colormunki and create their own profiles.
On Sat, Apr 26, 2014 at 5:58 AM, Rob Studdert <distudio.p...@gmail.com> wrote: > Under florescent lighting the colour changes as Godfrey suggests but > to take it a little further the problem occurs mainly at shutter > speeds shorter than a half cycle of the local mains frequency in the > case of conventionally driven florescent lighting. CFLs and some new > batons with electronic ballasts drive the tubes at a much higher > frequency and so are far less problematic to shoot under. > > On 26 April 2014 13:26, John <jsessoms...@nc.rr.com> wrote: >> What white balance do you have your camera set to? In many ways it doesn't >> matter which one you choose as long as you choose a specific one and *NOT* >> auto white balance. >> >> Auto white balance in the camera will change the white balance for every >> image. >> >> If you choose a specific white balance, even if it's the wrong one, all of >> the images will be the same. You get the first one color corrected and all >> the rest can be synchronized to it. >> >> ... until you go into another room or go outdoors. >> >> But still, you color correct the first one in the group & synchronize all >> the rest from that group to the first one. >> >> One thing is to carry a gray-card. Get yourself one of these: >> >> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/101853-REG/Delta_22030_Gray_Card_8x10_1.html >> >> (The URL probably doesn't wrap correctly. I'm still searching for where to >> turn flowed text on.) >> >> Anyway, cut it into quarters & carry one-quarter in your pocket. Let one of >> the kids hold it up for you in your first shot for the group. When it wears >> out, use another quarter ... until all of them are worn out. >> >> You can use the white-balance eye-dropper tool to color correct the photo >> that has the gray card in it & then synchronize the rest of the images taken >> in the same light to that first one. >> >> >> On 4/25/2014 6:19 AM, Eric Weir wrote: >>> >>> >>> I don’t understand what it is. I don’t understand how it works. In >>> some cases I don’t know how to get the results I want. >>> >>> This is an album of images taken mostly in a classroom, the same >>> classroom, the same day, over a period of about an hour and a half. >>> >>> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/eeweir/13974421313/in/set-72157644174507442/> >>> As you can see, the coloring differs widely across the images. I >>> tried to get them to come out the same without success. >>> >>> Since posting these I’ve gone back to the images in LR and changed >>> the WB setting to auto and increased the exposure on a couple >>> slightly. That gives me the best most consistent results. But “auto” >>> leaves me completely in the dark. What could *I* have done to achieve >>> the same results? >>> >>> While I’m at it, could someone please explain to me what the options >>> under the fluorescent setting—D, N, W, L—are? I don’t see that it >>> makes any difference what setting I use. And I generally don’t like >>> the results I get with any fluorescent setting. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> >>> >> Eric Weir >>> >>> Decatur, GA USA eew...@bellsouth.net >>> >>> "Our world is a human world." >>> >>> - Hilary Putnam >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> -- >> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >> PDML@pdml.net >> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and >> follow the directions. > > > > -- > Rob Studdert (Digital Image Studio) > Tel: +61-418-166-870 UTC +10 Hours > Gmail, eBay, Skype, Twitter, Facebook, Picasa: distudio > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > PDML@pdml.net > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
