FWIW, I must say that I rarely use a grey card and find that the AWB is pretty good in camera. If I have to wing it, I'll try looking for neutral spots with the WB tool. Usually that gets me close enough to where I can manually adjust it to decent skin tones at least.
On Sat, Apr 26, 2014 at 7:46 AM, Zos Xavius <zosxav...@gmail.com> wrote: > Yeah, a grey card isn't the best solution ever, but it sure beats > hoping that the white shirt you are trying to get a WB reading off of > is really a good white and won't color cast the picture itself. In > desperation it works better than nothing, but a grey card will at > least give you a mostly consistent WB source. I've used the x-rite one > before that is huge and found it to not be 100% pure grey. I don't > know if it picked up a color cast in the studio under tungsten lights > over time or not, but it's still pretty darned close. The best neutral > grey I've seen is the color munki's camera calibration swatch. Those > grey patches are pretty reliable. The color munki software makes > better profiles with their target than adobe's dng profile creator > too, for those that have a colormunki and create their own profiles. > > On Sat, Apr 26, 2014 at 5:58 AM, Rob Studdert <distudio.p...@gmail.com> wrote: >> Under florescent lighting the colour changes as Godfrey suggests but >> to take it a little further the problem occurs mainly at shutter >> speeds shorter than a half cycle of the local mains frequency in the >> case of conventionally driven florescent lighting. CFLs and some new >> batons with electronic ballasts drive the tubes at a much higher >> frequency and so are far less problematic to shoot under. >> >> On 26 April 2014 13:26, John <jsessoms...@nc.rr.com> wrote: >>> What white balance do you have your camera set to? In many ways it doesn't >>> matter which one you choose as long as you choose a specific one and *NOT* >>> auto white balance. >>> >>> Auto white balance in the camera will change the white balance for every >>> image. >>> >>> If you choose a specific white balance, even if it's the wrong one, all of >>> the images will be the same. You get the first one color corrected and all >>> the rest can be synchronized to it. >>> >>> ... until you go into another room or go outdoors. >>> >>> But still, you color correct the first one in the group & synchronize all >>> the rest from that group to the first one. >>> >>> One thing is to carry a gray-card. Get yourself one of these: >>> >>> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/101853-REG/Delta_22030_Gray_Card_8x10_1.html >>> >>> (The URL probably doesn't wrap correctly. I'm still searching for where to >>> turn flowed text on.) >>> >>> Anyway, cut it into quarters & carry one-quarter in your pocket. Let one of >>> the kids hold it up for you in your first shot for the group. When it wears >>> out, use another quarter ... until all of them are worn out. >>> >>> You can use the white-balance eye-dropper tool to color correct the photo >>> that has the gray card in it & then synchronize the rest of the images taken >>> in the same light to that first one. >>> >>> >>> On 4/25/2014 6:19 AM, Eric Weir wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> I don’t understand what it is. I don’t understand how it works. In >>>> some cases I don’t know how to get the results I want. >>>> >>>> This is an album of images taken mostly in a classroom, the same >>>> classroom, the same day, over a period of about an hour and a half. >>>> >>>> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/eeweir/13974421313/in/set-72157644174507442/> >>>> As you can see, the coloring differs widely across the images. I >>>> tried to get them to come out the same without success. >>>> >>>> Since posting these I’ve gone back to the images in LR and changed >>>> the WB setting to auto and increased the exposure on a couple >>>> slightly. That gives me the best most consistent results. But “auto” >>>> leaves me completely in the dark. What could *I* have done to achieve >>>> the same results? >>>> >>>> While I’m at it, could someone please explain to me what the options >>>> under the fluorescent setting—D, N, W, L—are? I don’t see that it >>>> makes any difference what setting I use. And I generally don’t like >>>> the results I get with any fluorescent setting. >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>>> >>>> >>> Eric Weir >>>> >>>> Decatur, GA USA eew...@bellsouth.net >>>> >>>> "Our world is a human world." >>>> >>>> - Hilary Putnam >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> -- >>> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >>> PDML@pdml.net >>> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >>> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and >>> follow the directions. >> >> >> >> -- >> Rob Studdert (Digital Image Studio) >> Tel: +61-418-166-870 UTC +10 Hours >> Gmail, eBay, Skype, Twitter, Facebook, Picasa: distudio >> >> -- >> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >> PDML@pdml.net >> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and >> follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
