RE: [BlindHandyMan] show room shine
Good tips on the site and forums http://www.meguiars.com/ _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carl Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 8:54 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] show room shine when washing the truk any tips on getting that show room shine? i'm in the north east of the UK you can contackt me on skype carlf16 and joine my list for unabridged audiobooks send a blank email to ub_ab_bookspace+subscr...@googlegroups.com mailto:ub_ab_bookspace%2Bsubscribe%40googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
here is the site http://www.diggershotline.com/ Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:16 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Kevin, I don't know where in the country you are, but many states have a service called one call. You need to call them and they will take care of sending someone out to mark any buried utilities. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles
Motorcycles also use driveshaft's. The belt that is used for a drive belt on a motorcycle is very similar to a timing belt in a car. There are teeth that fit in to grooves on the sprocket. The first time I heard of a belt drive on a motorcycle, I thought of a fan belt, and I couldn't figure out how that would work without slipping. Less messy than a chain, but you still need to adjust it every once in a while, and the last one I worked on you still had to move the back tire to adjust the belt. also less forgiving when it comes to dirt and stuff getting in the sprockets. Bob, did you mean belts are made from Kevlar:? I have never heard of a Kevlar chain. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 9:32 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles The most common cause of chain failure is a lack of proper maintenance. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net mailto:intheshop%40att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 1:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles The chains on motorcycles are made of Kevlar which is also what they make bullet proof vests from. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 3:15 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles Aloha all, Some friends of ours are overseas and wrote that they bought a bicycle with a rubber belt instead of a chain. Another person responded that these kind of belts have been used in motorcycles for awhile, but are also appearing in the bicycle world. This may be old news to some of you, but it seem cool to me that they won't rust or need lubrication. Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 PAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo ! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] home owner insurance
yeah, that claim is going to cost you more in the long run now. if you don't want to spend the money to fix the house, find an insurance broker, they might be able to find a company to insure you, the way it is, but your not going to like the price. If you show your current insurance company your working on the house, and give them a schedule of when the work will be done, they might consider doing a month to month thing. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 2:04 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] home owner insurance Dan, I know, but this does not seem to motivate him either. I tried to get him to not file one of the claims we filed last year for this reason and he ignored me. It was a $1400 repair and we have a $1000 deductible. Jennifer _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 7:48 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] home owner insurance Jennifer, Is money a motivator for your husband? I believe you have a mortgage on your home. Mortgage companies won't allow you to go without insurance. Thus, if you can't get your own insurance, the mortgage company will sell you insurance and you won't be happy with how much they will charge you either. So, you are either going to have to spend some money on repairs, or you are going to spend money on very expensive insurance. Sorry to be a downer. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower?
Lime away can be pretty nasty to your skin, so gloves might be in order for you. Some shower heads will come apart. You can then clean any extra build up off screens or whatever might be in there. A lot of newer ones seem to have rubber tips where the water comes out, and if yours does, just squeeze, pinch, etc the rubber to get the deposits to come loose. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 12:09 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower? We have a couple of really nice shower heads that we paid 20 bucks each for 10 years or so back and every few years I do the same thing and they work fine. You can use another grocery product called lime away. It works slightly better but costs more. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press braill...@hawaii.rr.com mailto:brailleit%40hawaii.rr.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 8:27 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower? Blake, I've had great results soaking the head in vinegar. I know it sounds a little weird, but it has kept my water-pick shower massage head working for over 30 years. Every couple of years I soak it over night in a bowl of vinegar. I've heard from others that 30 minutes is enough. Betsy At 11:17 PM 8/25/2010, you wrote: Yep most certainly its the head. I took it off and now there is no water coming out from the bottom. I must replace the head tomorrow. Just curious can you unstop a head? On 8/26/10, Blake Hardin mailto:blakehardin5487%40gmail.comblakehardin5...@gmail.com mailto:blakehardin5487%40gmail.com wrote: On 8/26/10, Bob Kennedy mailto:intheshop%40att.netinthes...@att.net mailto:intheshop%40att.net wrote: If water is running out of the spout at the bottom as well as the shower head, I'd pay attention to the diverter valve. You'll either have a stem you have to lift, or a handle to turn in order to send water to the shower head. If it's leaking at the spout to fill the tub, all of the water isn't reaching the top. It's always possible the head is plugged and causing a back up of pressure. Take off the head and see if there is still a leak at the spout. - Original Message - From: Blake Hardin To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 4:23 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower? Hi all, the water pressure in my shower is kind of low and allot of the water still comes out of the bottom faucet. Is it the head that needs replacing or what/ I could be wrong bu i believe the head has been replaced recently. Any ideas? Thanks. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1. -- Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 PAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo ! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer
i have seen this on framing hammers, and a roofing nail fits nicely in to the slot. of course, you kind of have to have an idea of where you want the nail to go to do it this way. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of clifford Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 9:38 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Dear Cy: My Dewalt nailer uses nails that come assembled much like staples but when the strip of nails is placed upright, the nails are slanted at different angles, depending on the brand of nailer. The individual nails are very close to the single counterparts that you buy by the pound. By the way, someone asked about getting short nails started, and there are some hammers which have a slot with a magnet to hold a short nail in place so that when it is struck against the wood, it will penetrate enough to keep the nail upright. I don't know if there is a model for roofing nails, but it would make sense. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 9:54 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Clifford, Amen friend! For those wee small nails (aren't they called brads?) I had a gizmo which you put the brad into and then hammared the pushrod which in turn pushed the brad in. Sure was a whole lot easier on nerves and fingers. Since I am a massage therapist I am even more cautious with my poor hands and fingers. ((LOLLOLLOLLOL) Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of clifford Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 7:31 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hammering verses an eighteen volt electric nailer Dear List Members: While I can use a hammer and nail, when it comes to those little nails, two and a half inches long or shorter, I enjoy my eighteen volt electric nailer. I can put in ten nails with it, while I would get one in with the hammer. It is wonderful when installing base board and other trim. The fingers come away much happier as well. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson Ps. The language barrier is broken much less frequently as well. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5394 (20100824) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5394 (20100824) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5394 (20100824) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rain gutter run and drop
A quarter inch per every 10 foot. make sure the roof is level though before hand. if it isn't, you will need to take that in to account when installing the gutters. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Vos Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 8:32 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rain gutter run and drop How much drop does a rain gutter need for water to run out effectively? We have a 34 foot run on the garage, and I'm wondering how much drop we need over that distance Blessings, Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
UPC: 604.11.2 PEX tubing shall not be installed within the first 18 of piping connected to a water heater. Of course, if the area adopts other codes, this may be different. 2006 PEX Design Guide: PEX tubing may be connected directly to residential electric water heaters, if the local code and manufacturer's instructions allow. Not sure what the IRC has for this, so it is best to check with the building department. Of course, if your not getting a permit, it is probably not a big deal, but those codes are put there now because people thought stuff wasn't a big deal and they suffered property and life damage due to not a big deal when building or remodeling. IMO it is always best to build to at least code, even if your not getting a permit. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 7:43 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? It probably can be bent more severely than i said with care or supported with a spring. As someone else said, it used to be thought that PEX should not come within 6 feet of a water heating system, I don't know if that is still true. The newer materials are probably more forgiving. One of the main advantages is that you can pull it up through partitions without needing to splice in elbows and now they are running it in loops to provide under floor heating so the radius must be better than I first stated. I'll try to find out later. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 10:09 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? Thanks for the reply. Not sure where I got the impression that PEX 3/4 inch could be coiled into a loup of 7 inches...Like I said, I never worked with PEX before and with new technology coming out every day, maybe they have a braded PEX or some product that can be? - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? PEX is flexible but only to an arc of maybe 3 feet diameter. In your situation you might consider a loop or an arc allowing you the extra length when/if you need it. With a hundred feet though you should be able to replace it when that occasion arises. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:18 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric bill considerably. This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool, copper crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX tubing. From examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as even soft copper of the same size. All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat gun? Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the integrity of the PEX tubing? Thanks :) However, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
Like these... http://www.pexsupply.com/Wirsbo-Uponor-A5150750-3-4-Plastic-Bend-Support-212 9000-p Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Terrie Robbins Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 7:53 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? When at the hardware store recently, I was looking at some Pex accessories. One thing they have that I thought was pretty neat are little pre bent brackets that go around the Pex at a point you make a ben to maintain it. Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 8:43 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? It probably can be bent more severely than i said with care or supported with a spring. As someone else said, it used to be thought that PEX should not come within 6 feet of a water heating system, I don't know if that is still true. The newer materials are probably more forgiving. One of the main advantages is that you can pull it up through partitions without needing to splice in elbows and now they are running it in loops to provide under floor heating so the radius must be better than I first stated. I'll try to find out later. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 10:09 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? Thanks for the reply. Not sure where I got the impression that PEX 3/4 inch could be coiled into a loup of 7 inches...Like I said, I never worked with PEX before and with new technology coming out every day, maybe they have a braded PEX or some product that can be? - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? PEX is flexible but only to an arc of maybe 3 feet diameter. In your situation you might consider a loop or an arc allowing you the extra length when/if you need it. With a hundred feet though you should be able to replace it when that occasion arises. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:18 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric bill considerably. This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool, copper crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX tubing. From examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as even soft copper of the same size. All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat gun? Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the integrity of the PEX tubing? Thanks :) However, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
Sounds like an interesting concept. Never heard of it before, but around here with electric rates averaging $0.07 to $0.08 per KW, conserving electricity isn't a big deal. You must have some bad water. i know people on wells that are on 30 years on their water heater, they have only replaced the elements, and have no filtration system. Soften water can shorten the life of a water heater to. have you tried replacing the anode every year or two have you thought of having the return end of the pump connect with your furthest hot water supply? this would give you almost instant hot water, because it would keep hot water in your hot water supply lines. Insulate the pipes good, and should be a good energy saver, and a water saver. You won't be waiting several seconds or longer for hot water to reach your faucets. Then you only have the one connection to your water heater to worry about when you replace it. have fun. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 10:02 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? No, I have copper connected directly into the water heater/tank and no, I am not returning the heated water from the furnace back through the pop valve. I installed a T at the tank and the return line connects into the T. The pop valve on the tank is functional as well as the other pop valve I installed at the highest point in the run. As far as to how long a water heater will last depends on the water being heated. I am on well water and so are others here in my neighborhood. We get 5 to 6 years use from our water heaters/tanks before they spring a leak and need to be replaced. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 12:18 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? if i understand correct, you want to connect the PEX from the copper directly to your water heater? if this is the case, that is a big no no. PEX, or any plastic pipe is not to be used for direct connection to water heaters. They actually make flexible water heater lines that are about 2 foot long. they are 3/4 female on both ends. this is for the inlet and outlet. You should get 10 years or more out of a water heater. the last one I replaced was about 25 years old. And please don't tell me you are returning the water in through the pressure relief valve, without some way of relieving pressure. I don't even want to think of the mess if the thermostat broke, and the coils kept heating the water. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:19 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric bill considerably. This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool, copper crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX tubing. From examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as even soft copper of the same size. All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat gun? Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the integrity of the PEX tubing? Thanks :) However, [Non-text portions of this message have been
RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
if i understand correct, you want to connect the PEX from the copper directly to your water heater? if this is the case, that is a big no no. PEX, or any plastic pipe is not to be used for direct connection to water heaters. They actually make flexible water heater lines that are about 2 foot long. they are 3/4 female on both ends. this is for the inlet and outlet. You should get 10 years or more out of a water heater. the last one I replaced was about 25 years old. And please don't tell me you are returning the water in through the pressure relief valve, without some way of relieving pressure. I don't even want to think of the mess if the thermostat broke, and the coils kept heating the water. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:19 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric bill considerably. This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool, copper crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX tubing. From examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as even soft copper of the same size. All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat gun? Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the integrity of the PEX tubing? Thanks :) However, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] talking multi meters
Sure Marlin P Jones assoc. 1-800-652-6733 item 16562 te talking digital multimeter top hand lk-10 http://www.mpja.com http://www.mpja.com Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peter Mikochik Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 7:46 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] talking multi meters hey electro heads anyone know where i can find a talking multimeter? thnkx [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!
i do not need to with mine,and it is a Kenmore. just twist and pull. i am guessing there is a valve that is turned when i have to twist the filter to disengage it. My ice and water keep working with no filter installed as well. When replacing one, it is good to run water through the system, this helps to clean out any manufacturing debris, and purge air from the system. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Max Robinson Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 12:07 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator! Don't you have to shut off the water while changing the filter? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com mailto:funwithtransistors-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 4:29 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator! Hi Claudia, To the best of my knowledge, most will have these filters. You generally will find the filter in one of two places. The first place is inside the fridge, near the top. It may be a short cylinder, which hangs vertically near the rear of the cabinet. Some filters are long cylinders that are mounted horizontaly and generally mounted on either side of the cabinet. Another place you will find filters is at the bottom of the unit behind the kick plate. In most cases you should not have to remove the kick plate to access the filter. In this case the filter will be mounted parallel to the floor. Regardless of the configuration, these filters generally require just a twist to unlock them from the mounting. You will find that most of these filters will have a handle that you can grab to remove or install it and I have even seen one where you remove the filter, pull a cap off the bottom, which is actually a part of the fridge and matches the kick plate, and you put on the new filter, before installation. I hope this helps and there may be other configurations I am not aware of that others can share. On Jul 22, 2010, at 11:14 PM, Claudia wrote: hi, Our fridge has a water dispenser. Are there filters that are supposed to be changed periodically, and if so, where do I find these filters! Claudia Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net mailto:cdelreal1973%40sbcglobal.net Skype: claudiadr10 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5299 (20100721) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 PAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo ! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve
I would cut a section of the copper pipe out, where you want the valve, and get a ball valve with compression fittings. Shark bite can supposedly work with about any kind of pipe, but if you have had luck with compression, why spend the extra money. Ball valves have little to no restrictions when they are open, and it only takes a quarter turn to have it fully open or fully closed, and they do not seem to leak around the stem like gate valves do. I am actually going to be doing this soon, but I have 3/4 galvanized. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Terrie Robbins Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:03 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve Dale Dan, Thanks to both of you for getting back to me before Terrie gets home and I go to that damn hardware store. Let me explain what I'm doing and maybe that will help me better understand the suggestions you guys are making. When I go away from home I have this thing I am concerned over and that is a water leak while I'm gone for a week or so. I usually shut off the main water valve just below the water meter when we go away. The problem with this is it is near the floor down behind the washer and it is quite a trick to lay on the washer and reach that sucker. The main line runs right up behind the washer and what I figured I'd do is simply cut the line and put an additional shut off valve in the main line where it is nice easy to reach. However, I want one that opens fully like the one before the water meter so as to not constrict the flow volume in the main line. I usually use compression fittings when working with copper line and have never had a problem. However with the newer stuff like shark bite fittings I thought they may be better. I've never played with Pex or even seen it (unless that is what the foot long or so things are going from my hot water heater and connect to the copper pipe) so I don't want to get into something complicated, I just want to insert a valve and then get onto more projects. So, with this, what is the suggestion? thanks Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:44 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve Al, I think you may want a ball valve. They tend to be a lot more reliable than gate valves. PEX is not the same thing, it is a plastic material. There are methods of joining it to copper but I am unfamiliar with any of them except by sweating threaded fittings onto the ends of the pipes to be linked with plastic types of fitting. I seem to remember that there is a sort of bulbous fitting which can be put onto the end of a copper pipe and the PEX heated and forced over the bulb where it cools and contracts and is further secured with a band. There may also be compression plastic fittings to clamp down over the ends of the copper certainly there are such fittings for drain lines but I don't know about pressured water lines. - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: Blindhandyman Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:09 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve Just called my local hardware store as I need to pick up a shut off valve to go in half inch copper line. I believe what I want is referred to as a gate valve (inside totally retracts to give full unrestricted flow) correct? I asked if they had these so I could use the shark bite fittings. They said they had Pex and it was the same. Since I've read about both but never used either are these the same or interchangeable? Is there a special tool I'll need to have on hand to remove should I want to? Last question: Do you feel the shark bite or Pex are as reliable as compression fittings? thanks Al [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
Well, here is my $0.02 on the topic. Figure out what you want the finished height of the floor to be and excavate as needed. Lot of work. 5 gallon buckets of dirt out of a basement is not fun, I know from experience. 6 mil plastic on the dirt, and up the edges a few inches, using caulk to seal, and hold the plastic up on the wall. 2x6 treated boards fastened to the sides of the concrete as ledger boards. I would use construction adhesive, and tapcons. 2x6 joists to span across and installed with joist hangers. top with 3/4 TG exterior grade plywood. Won't need footings, but this assumes that there is concrete on all four sides of your hole. Michael [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?
Claudia, You insert the key that came with the door lock or dead bolt, give it a half turn, then insert another little reset tool thing in a hole by the key slot. Remove that first key and insert the key you want the lock rekeyed to and turn it back and remove the reset tool. I think Menards and Home Depot both have a display so customers can see how easy it is to do. I have used these locks exclusively on everything I have replaced in the past few years. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Claudia Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 5:57 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? Michael, How do Quickset locks work? Thanks. Claudia - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 7:53 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? take all locks to a lock smith, with the key you want them keyed to. They can disassemble the lock, and reset the tumblers to work with the key you want. The key will need to be the same style as the others, so the key you want to open all locks will need to slide in to the key slot of the lock. This is usually best done when replacing all locks, then you can get the same brand and model. or you can buy locks made by Kwickset, and rekey the locks yourself. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Julio and Los pintores De La Cumbia Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 9:41 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? can that be posible and how does one go about doing that tying up one key for all locks. Sent from My T-mobile Dash 3g. Julio Morones Keyboardist for Los Pintores De La Cumbia MySpace page for the band www.myspace.com/pintores Nickname Soda-pop Email Address jmoro...@ca. mailto:jmorones%40ca.rr.com rr.com Skype jmorones03 Klango Sodapop Windows Live Messenger only jmorone...@hotmail. mailto:jmorones03%40hotmail.com com Home Phone 323-451-3633 Mobile Phone You can text as well. 323-842-0104 Los Angeles CA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5057 (20100424) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset. http://www.eset.com com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5076 (20100430) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset. http://www.eset.com com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?
take all locks to a lock smith, with the key you want them keyed to. They can disassemble the lock, and reset the tumblers to work with the key you want. The key will need to be the same style as the others, so the key you want to open all locks will need to slide in to the key slot of the lock. This is usually best done when replacing all locks, then you can get the same brand and model. or you can buy locks made by Kwickset, and rekey the locks yourself. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Julio and Los pintores De La Cumbia Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 9:41 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? can that be posible and how does one go about doing that tying up one key for all locks. Sent from My T-mobile Dash 3g. Julio Morones Keyboardist for Los Pintores De La Cumbia MySpace page for the band www.myspace.com/pintores Nickname Soda-pop Email Address jmoro...@ca. mailto:jmorones%40ca.rr.com rr.com Skype jmorones03 Klango Sodapop Windows Live Messenger only jmorone...@hotmail. mailto:jmorones03%40hotmail.com com Home Phone 323-451-3633 Mobile Phone You can text as well. 323-842-0104 Los Angeles CA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] a question of tyres
Until I got an old tire machine gave to us, I use to use a bottle jack, and the front of a 52 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup. I would put the base of the jack right at the edge of the rim, on the tire, and attempt to jack up the pickup. It was heavy enough to break the bead loose, on the first shot normally, if not a little persuasion from a hammer, and repositioning the tire to a different spot did the job. But, if you have no need to use the tires again, just cut them off. Drill a hole near the rim, and work a hacksaw in there and cut around the rim. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 6:34 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a question of tyres You need to remove the valve stem to do any kind of breaking down of the tire. To get the rim out of a tire, you have to break the bead around the rim. Usually a machine is used to apply a lot of pressure on the side of the tire while turning it under a roller. You can do this without a machine, but you will need some tools first. There are spoons which are pry bars with the end rolled over. The end hooks under the rim and then you push down forcing the bead away from the rim. You need a few of these spoons and as soon as you get one in place and while pushing down on the tire, you insert a 2nd spoon and do the same thing. Eventually as you work around the tire, you will break the bead away from the rim. Unfortunately, after one side is done, you flip it over and do it again. Finally, each bead has to be forced over the rim so it is free from the center of the tire. I used to change race car tires this way and don't envy you. I had a sledge hammer to help break the bead, but it is pretty dangerous. Too far from the rim and the tire would bounce it back at you. Hit the rim and you damage it and sting your hands real good. - Original Message - From: Carl To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com ; blind-gardener@ mailto:blind-gardener%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 3:36 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a question of tyres i hav some tyres that i'm goeing to use to gro potatos but 2 of them still hav the wheals in the center how can i remove the wheals? i'm in the north east of the uk you can get me on skype with carlf16 or email carl...@googlemail. mailto:carlf16%40googlemail.com com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?
instead of using a key, you put in a pass code on a key pad located on the door, and the door unlocks assuming the correct code was put in. There is also a key slot, so if the battery dies in the key pad, you can still use the key to get in. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Claudia Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 7:10 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? Hi, I've been hearing commercials lately, about a keyless entry lock? What is this, and can anyone describe it for me? Thanks. Claudia __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5049 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset. http://www.eset.com com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!
i have a Whirlpool duet 9400 washer and drier, and they are both very blind user friendly. There is a big knob you use to select your wash cycle. It beeps at the normal cycle, so it is just a matter of counting from there. On and off selections, like extra rinse, have a tone pattern to indicate if it is on or off. Low high to indicate on, and high to low to indicate it is off. Selections that have multiple settings, like water temp, or spin speed, have a different pitched tone for the different level. Example, the higher the pitch, the hotter the water. We were also looking at a LG front loader, do not recall the model, but i did not find it blind user friendly. Most machines you can get braille over lays for, but expect to wait 8-12 weeks to get it. I would go to a few appliance retailers, and put your hands on a few different machines, then research them on the internet before buying them. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Gatteys Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:09 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine! Hi all! My washer has finally bitten the dust and its time to be replaced. And they've definitely changed since the last time I made a purchase. I currently have a front loading model but it seems like most of those nowadays have touch panels and don't seem to be very accessible to blind folks. Anybody have any suggestions on what you might have purchased that is accessible? Thanks for any help, Jim - Find me on facebook or: Skype: jimintexas Yahoo or Aim/Ichat: jgatteys Msn: jgatt...@gmail. mailto:jgatteys%40gmail.com com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating.
Nope, do not need it with the kerdi membrane. if I did not use the Kerdi, the floor would be plywood, 1/4 durock, heat mats, and then tile. the Kerdi allows the plywood subfloor to expand and contract, and not crack the tile. It is hard to describe what it looks like, if you ever make it to a Home Depot, they sell it there. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Hodges Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 7:44 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. You don't have cement board under your tile? I'm assuming this is ceramic tile, is that right? From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael baldwin Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 10:26 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. under tile. Well, starting from the bottom, I have the plywood subfloor, the heating mats, Kerdi membrane, and tile. I think the mats I got, if you put it under wood, you need to put a layer of thinset over the mats first, then glue the wood down, or use a floating floor. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dave Andrus Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:58 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Hi Michael, Your radient flooring that warms the floor. Did you put it under tile or under wood? Dave A. Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of Jesus Rev. Dave Andrus, Director Lutheran Blind Mission 888 215 2455 HTTP://WWW.BLINDMIS HTTP://WWW.BLINDMIS HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG SION.ORG SION.ORG -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael baldwin Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:51 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Nope, this Mike lives in Central Nebraska. trust me, it has been cold here, and snowy. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:24 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Mike, Don't you live in Florida? Or do Ihave the wrong Mike? You are correct though. 50 watts per square foot isn't too bad. Say you do a three foot wide, by 10 foot long section, that would be about 1.5KW for the 240 volt matts. So, 1.5KWH around here would cost about 30 cents an hour to run. That's nowhere near as bad as Iwould have expected. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating.
The ground does not need to be heated 4 foot deep to melt the snow on the side walk. this is a snow melt system, not a keep snow off my walk system, so in really cold snows, or fast, deep accumulations, there will be build up on the sidewalk or drive, but the system will get it all melted. The heating wires are put in the concrete about 1.5 inches below the surface. 50 watts is about 170 BTU. 1 watt is 3.412 BTU. 1 sq/ft of concrete that is 1.5 inches deep is about 11.1 pounds. it takes 0.2 BTU to raise 1 pound of concrete 1 degree F. To raise the temp to 32 degrees F from 0 degrees F, it would be 71.04 BTU's Okay, that leaves us with 98.96 BTU's Going with a medium snow, not real wet and heavy, but not real light and fluffy, the snow would weigh about 10 pounds per cubic foot. and if we get an inch of that in 1 hour, that would be 0.83 pounds. it takes 0.5 BTU's to heat ice by 1 degree f. To bring the snow from 0 to 32 degrees f, it would take 13.28 BTU's Now, this is the real BTU hog, it takes 144 BTU's to go from ice at 32 degrees F to water at 32 degrees F, per pound. That would be 119.52 BTU's in our example. The total BTU's so far is 204.38, so that puts us into our second hour, cause we only have 170 BTU's per hour. In the second hour, we wont' need the full 71.4 BTU's cause the concrete is already warmed to 32 degrees F, but it will take some BTU's to maintain that temp, lets say 30% of the original to make it 21.31 BTU's to maintain the concretes 32 degree temp. total 225.69 BTU's. Because heat moves to cold, we will waste BTU's heating the concrete below the wires as well. Lets say we use another 100 BTU's to heating the concrete below the wires during the time it is melting the snow on top. Total 325.69 BTU's go with 340 BTU's to add some extra in for the heck of it. So 2 hours to melt 1 inch of snow, and the use of 100 watts per sq/ft. 15000 watts for a 3 by 50 sidewalk. 15 KW times $0.12 per KW, and you get $1.80 to remove 1 inch of snow. If 1 inch takes 2 hours, and if 8 inches would take 16 hours, then we would be talking about $28.80 to have a snow free sidewalk. Then, if the average snow fall is 60 inches for the year, that would be about 120 hours of use, and $216.00. of course, there are other variables that you would need computer modeling to take into effect, like speed of winds, and the thermal loss of the concrete, and insulation value of snow after it starts to accumulate, rate of snow fall, etc... but if it costs lets say even $400 a year to remove 60 inches of snow for your sidewalk, that is cheap compared to being in eh hospital because of a heart attack from shoveling that much. Possibly cheaper then paying someone to do it as well, not to mention, waiting on them to get it done. Oh, best I could find was raw turkey rolls being0.81 BTU's to heat by 1 degree for 1 pound. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 10:16 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Well, it takes half a day to thaw a 20 pound turkey in my house at 72 degrees F. My patio weighs about 11 tons and is sitting on frost that penetrates about 4 feet and just now it is 0 degrees F out there with a slight breeze. That would require a load of heat to melt the snow even if the patio was laid on insulation. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 10:44 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Then go to h http://www.suntouch http://www.suntouch.com .com ttp://www.suntouch. ttp://www.suntouch.com com click on the ProMelt Mats link read the info, and download or open the pdf link SunTouchR ProMeltT Brochure, and see what it says for yourself. it is possible I miss read 50 watts on 240 volt systems, and 36 watts on 120 volt systems. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:27 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. I don't believe that for a moment. If it is below freezing it is going to take a lot of heat just to raise the temperature of the surface above freezing. A cement walkway has a lot of mass to bring up to temperature. Then there is the latent heat. it takes something like 40 calories of energy to change the state of water from solid to liquid alone without actually raising the temperature. finally, you need to heat enough area to keep the snow and ice liquid distant enough for it to run away and not just freeze again. In locations where one only gets occasional snow
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating.
I installed the SunTouch brand in our last house, and it was great on the feet. It didn't raise our electric bill by any noticeable difference. I installed 45 square feet on a 120 volt system. After the tiles were warmed up, it never really ran that much. I am now installing it here at our new place, under the tile. it is expensive to install. I think it was over $300 for the 30 inch wide by 14 foot long mat. i tried to find the watts per square foot on there site, but was unable to. I know i saw it there before. So, there is my recommendation for a brand if you want to do this. It does look like they have heating mats for the snow. 120 volt mats draw 36 watts per square foot, and 240 volt ones draw 50 watts per square foot. There is a sensor, so they only operate when it is snowing, so unless you get a lot of snow, or are doing a large drive way, the cost would not be all that bad. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 7:03 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. I've been doing a lot of research into heated floors. There are two main kinds of radiant floors, electric or hydronic (water). You can bury pipes in the cement floor, or place them in the joist bays beneath a wood floor, then use hot water flowing through the pipes to heat the floor. You can also use electric mesh mats under a layer of cement or cyramic tile to heat the floor. Depending on where you live, this could be pretty expensive. Heating a floor inside a house is a lot less expensive than heating a driveway or sidewalk. Electrically heating a driveway to melt snow would be for the rich only I would expect. heating the floor in the house would be much more cost effective. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating.
Nope, this Mike lives in Central Nebraska. trust me, it has been cold here, and snowy. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:24 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Mike, Don't you live in Florida? Or do Ihave the wrong Mike? You are correct though. 50 watts per square foot isn't too bad. Say you do a three foot wide, by 10 foot long section, that would be about 1.5KW for the 240 volt matts. So, 1.5KWH around here would cost about 30 cents an hour to run. That's nowhere near as bad as Iwould have expected. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating.
The heat is thermatically controlled. So, my wife sets the temp, and we go with it. The first instillation at our old house was a primary heat source. We have 45 sq/ft of heating mat installed, and it heated a 135 sq/ft room fine. this was a bathroom in a basement, and the mats were installed in open floor area, not under cabinets toilet, shower, washer/dryer. There was a duct to this room, but i closed it to force more heat up stairs. in the summer, we left it on, cause even the floors then get cool. It did not make the room uncomfortably warm. I noticed the heat was all around, yeah the floor was warmer, but after we installed it, and ran it for a while, there did not seem to be any warm or cool spots in the room like you get with forced air. The bathroom i am doing now, there is a heat vent again, but I will have to wait and see how it does here before I decide to close it off. This installation will be over a crawlspace on the main floor. The crawl space is insulated, so it doesn't get cold, a little cool, but not cold. 35 sq/ft in a 120 sq ft room. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:57 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. OK Mike, Then it sounds like the electric mats aren't as bad as I thought. Are you just using them as a comfort heat source and not a primary heat source? Are they thermostatically controlled or do you turn them on and off when you want the heat? I've been looking at hydronic for a primary heat source on the first floor of my house. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating.
under tile. Well, starting from the bottom, I have the plywood subfloor, the heating mats, Kerdi membrane, and tile. I think the mats I got, if you put it under wood, you need to put a layer of thinset over the mats first, then glue the wood down, or use a floating floor. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dave Andrus Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:58 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Hi Michael, Your radient flooring that warms the floor. Did you put it under tile or under wood? Dave A. Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of Jesus Rev. Dave Andrus, Director Lutheran Blind Mission 888 215 2455 HTTP://WWW.BLINDMIS HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG SION.ORG -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael baldwin Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:51 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Nope, this Mike lives in Central Nebraska. trust me, it has been cold here, and snowy. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:24 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Mike, Don't you live in Florida? Or do Ihave the wrong Mike? You are correct though. 50 watts per square foot isn't too bad. Say you do a three foot wide, by 10 foot long section, that would be about 1.5KW for the 240 volt matts. So, 1.5KWH around here would cost about 30 cents an hour to run. That's nowhere near as bad as Iwould have expected. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating.
Then go to h http://www.suntouch.com ttp://www.suntouch.com click on the ProMelt Mats link read the info, and download or open the pdf link SunTouchR ProMeltT Brochure, and see what it says for yourself. it is possible I miss read 50 watts on 240 volt systems, and 36 watts on 120 volt systems. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:27 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. I don't believe that for a moment. If it is below freezing it is going to take a lot of heat just to raise the temperature of the surface above freezing. A cement walkway has a lot of mass to bring up to temperature. Then there is the latent heat. it takes something like 40 calories of energy to change the state of water from solid to liquid alone without actually raising the temperature. finally, you need to heat enough area to keep the snow and ice liquid distant enough for it to run away and not just freeze again. In locations where one only gets occasional snow and ice and the ambient temperature does not drop much below freezing then electric may be effective. Other locations like small areas, steps which are sheltered for example may be cost effective. Even the hot water systems aren't widely used except under a loading area like for example an ambulance entrance and that usually under a roof and behind a wall. The ambient atmosphere will draw huge amounts of heat off a surface very effectively. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:17 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. I installed the SunTouch brand in our last house, and it was great on the feet. It didn't raise our electric bill by any noticeable difference. I installed 45 square feet on a 120 volt system. After the tiles were warmed up, it never really ran that much. I am now installing it here at our new place, under the tile. it is expensive to install. I think it was over $300 for the 30 inch wide by 14 foot long mat. i tried to find the watts per square foot on there site, but was unable to. I know i saw it there before. So, there is my recommendation for a brand if you want to do this. It does look like they have heating mats for the snow. 120 volt mats draw 36 watts per square foot, and 240 volt ones draw 50 watts per square foot. There is a sensor, so they only operate when it is snowing, so unless you get a lot of snow, or are doing a large drive way, the cost would not be all that bad. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 7:03 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. I've been doing a lot of research into heated floors. There are two main kinds of radiant floors, electric or hydronic (water). You can bury pipes in the cement floor, or place them in the joist bays beneath a wood floor, then use hot water flowing through the pipes to heat the floor. You can also use electric mesh mats under a layer of cement or cyramic tile to heat the floor. Depending on where you live, this could be pretty expensive. Heating a floor inside a house is a lot less expensive than heating a driveway or sidewalk. Electrically heating a driveway to melt snow would be for the rich only I would expect. heating the floor in the house would be much more cost effective. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating.
Well I found the specs for my system, and it is 12 watts per sq/ft no matter if your using 120 or 240 volts. So for a whole house, it could get kind of spendy if your house is not very well insulated. But my system is not designed for a whole house, that system would have different rating. Electric forced air heat might be cheap to install, but not electric wires or mats for heat. Hydronic is probably the way to go for a whole house. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. under floor electric heat isn't bad considering the general cost of electric heat. Usually it is in a small room, a bathroom which might be a hundred or so square feet 25% or more of which is covered with shower stalls, tubs, vanities and so on. The ambient temperature of the dwelling will probably be around 70 degrees F so you aren't topping it up much. Heating an entire home that way though would be a lot more expensive. funny really, my first home nearly 40 years ago was all electric with R12 in the walls and R20 in the ceilings and promoted as being the way of the future. Within a couple of years though that turned out to be a myth. Electric heat is cheap to install though. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:57 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. OK Mike, Then it sounds like the electric mats aren't as bad as I thought. Are you just using them as a comfort heat source and not a primary heat source? Are they thermostatically controlled or do you turn them on and off when you want the heat? I've been looking at hydronic for a primary heat source on the first floor of my house. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating.
Assuming it runs all night, and every night. It only works when it is snowing out. the point being, it is not in the thousands of dollar range per month, unless you have a very large system, or very high electric rates. _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:38 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. That is about 3 bucks a night or 90 bucks a month. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:24 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Radiant floor heating. Mike, Don't you live in Florida? Or do Ihave the wrong Mike? You are correct though. 50 watts per square foot isn't too bad. Say you do a three foot wide, by 10 foot long section, that would be about 1.5KW for the 240 volt matts. So, 1.5KWH around here would cost about 30 cents an hour to run. That's nowhere near as bad as Iwould have expected. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] drilling holes in pvc pipe
Well, this is what came to my mind. Cut 3 pieces of lumber the same length as your pipe. The width of 2 of the pieces need to be the same as the diameter of the pipe, and for 1 and 1/2 pvc it should be 1 and 7/8 The 3rd piece will need to be the width of the pipe, 1 and 7/8, plus the width of your 2 other piece. So if your using 3/4 stock, the width of the 3rd piece would be 3 and 3/8. With your 3rd piece, make a shallow groove down the center of it, a blade width wide, and about 1/8 inch deep or so. Fasten the 3 pieces together, so your basically making a long 3 sided box that your pipe should fit into. If the pipe is a good fit, that little groove made in the 3rd piece should be right in the center of the pipe. Just line your drill up with the groove, and how ever far in you need it, and drill. After the first hole, slide a bolt through the guide, and the pipe to hold the pipe in place for your next hole. You could also do it with 2 pieces of wood, making a V shape to fit over the pipe. And using the point of the upside down v to center your drill bit. Michael -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:27 AM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drilling holes in pvc pipe I want to make a holder for my table saws miter gauge. I have about a 20 inch of 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe and some very strong magnets with 1/4 bolts in the center. I want to drill a 1/4 inch hole near the ends of the pipe. How can I make sure that I have the holes in perfect alignment and centered on the pipe? When completed I can just attach it to the side of the saw and slide the miter gauge inside. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
RE: [BlindHandyMan] another car guys question
There are a whole load of things that could cause your problem, but surely the dealer checked the obvious ones. All the components of the liftgate system can be checked electronically by the dealer and they can monitor the status of all the various switches as the liftgate operates. My guess is that it's something else causing the problem. The door has the ability to sense resistance to liftgate travel and if it does that, the door will immediately reverse direction and close again. I think I would suspect that the door is binding somewhere which causes this reverse action to occur. Hall effect sensors in the motor and pinch sensors in the door jamb are used for detection but I think you can rule out the pinch sensors (they look like door seals but have electrical conductive rubber in them) because those are used to stop the door from closing if something blocks it. You have the opposite problem. The Hall effect sensor in the motor detects if the motor speed changes (such as if it slows down because the door is encountering resistance) and sends a signal to the door module to reverse direction. Another possibility is that the sensor located in the motor is faulty (maybe from getting banged around in the accident?) and is causing the problem all by itself. Just a couple of guesses. Michael -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 2:46 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] another car guys question About two months ago my wife was in a minor accident. She has a 2003 grand caravan. She was rear ended. The tale gate was replaced. When she brought the car home the tail gate power lift did not work every time. About 50 percent of the time it would go up half way and automatically close. So back to the dealer. They toyed with it for a while then ordered all of the parts that work the power lift. Well after they were installed it still has the same problem. It is going back Tuesday night so that they can have it all day Wednesday. Does anyone have any suspicions to what could be causing this intermittent problem? --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chimney Top Cover
Get some of that XPS that is used for insulation, cut to fit, cuts real easy with a hand saw, push it down the chimney a few inches. Then use some of that great stuff spray foam on top to make sure it is all sealed up, then put a chimney cap on it to prevent rain and snow from sitting on top of the foam. XPS is what first came to mind, but probably anything you can stuff in there to hold the spray foam up should work. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Hodges Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 7:54 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Chimney Top Cover I have a 115 year old house and the chimney tops are the clay decorative type. They are about 30 to 34 inches high, the bottom ends are about 10 to 12 inches square, and the tops are about 9 or 10 inches in diameter. Here is the problem. I want to plug them at the top, to keep out rain, but also to keep them from drawing air out of the house because the dampers are not air tight. I have 5 of them and four are from fireplaces that are no longer in use, and one is the vent for my water heater. I want to plug the ones that are for the fire places because I will be using bventless gas log sets ultimately. Does anyone know of a way to plug them at the top? I am aware of the sheep metal tops to keep out the rain, but I want to plug them to be air tight. Any ideas? Thanks, Tom , Newport, Kentucky [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors.
No, the tanks are not kept in the house. Maybe in extreme cold temps they could be kept in some kind of shelter, but normally the propane tank is out side, or even under ground now, with just the valve and meter sticking above ground. Federal, state, and local codes dictate where the propane tank can be placed. The most common size is a 500 gallon tank. 250 and 1000 gallon tanks are also available for residential use. The tank is normally filled to 80% capacity, otherwise the propane will expand to much, and could blow up the tank, if the safety valve is not working properly. In the winter, our supplier actually filled ours to 85% capacity. As far as not vaporizing in the extreme cold, a propane vaporizer is used. I am not sure how cold it needs to be to use one of these. In the Midwest, we never had an issue with not getting enough propane to run the furnace. They are also used when the tank can not vaporize enough propane for downline use. The propane is pumped to the vaporizer as a liquid, and then vaporized, and sent down stream. One other thing neat about propane, is you can use copper tubing. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:24 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors. HMM, you learn something every day. I didn't think propane would be a good heating source for a hole house. Everywhere I've lived, you either heated with natural gas or fuel oil. So, when you heat with propane, are the tanks inside the house? I mean, doesn't propane have issues if it gets too cold? I mean, doesn't it start to have problems vaporizing? Anyway, here are the make and models of my alarms. First Alert SCO501CN-3ST ONELINK Battery Operated Combination Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm with Voice Location $69 First Alert SA511CN2-3ST ONELINK Wireless Battery Operated Smoke Alarm with Voice Location, 2-Pack $89 -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chimney Top Cover
Foam used for insulation. But like I thought of after writing that, even wadded up newspaper should work, as long as it does not fall down to far. Then if later on you want to open the chimney back up, you can cut around the spray foam, and pull everything out. Others might have other ideas. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Hodges Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 5:29 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chimney Top Cover What is XPS? Never heard that designation before. Thanks, Tom From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael baldwin Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 9:11 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chimney Top Cover Get some of that XPS that is used for insulation, cut to fit, cuts real easy with a hand saw, push it down the chimney a few inches. Then use some of that great stuff spray foam on top to make sure it is all sealed up, then put a chimney cap on it to prevent rain and snow from sitting on top of the foam. XPS is what first came to mind, but probably anything you can stuff in there to hold the spray foam up should work. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Tom Hodges Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 7:54 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Chimney Top Cover I have a 115 year old house and the chimney tops are the clay decorative type. They are about 30 to 34 inches high, the bottom ends are about 10 to 12 inches square, and the tops are about 9 or 10 inches in diameter. Here is the problem. I want to plug them at the top, to keep out rain, but also to keep them from drawing air out of the house because the dampers are not air tight. I have 5 of them and four are from fireplaces that are no longer in use, and one is the vent for my water heater. I want to plug the ones that are for the fire places because I will be using bventless gas log sets ultimately. Does anyone know of a way to plug them at the top? I am aware of the sheep metal tops to keep out the rain, but I want to plug them to be air tight. Any ideas? Thanks, Tom , Newport, Kentucky [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors.
Dale, Not to be picky, but propane freezes at -310F, -190C boils at -44F, -42C. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 6:51 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors. Propane freezes at something under 40 below. It is a problem for our propane powered automobiles and many keep the gasoline operation and tanks for those situations when the propane won't flow. Some also use heat to keep it flowing once the air flow of vehicle movement adds to the cooling. The decompressing gas acts like a refrigerant just as happens when gas is compressed then allowed to decompress in a fridge or air conditioning device. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 7:00 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors. If you get a tank for heating, it has to be I seem to remember anyway, at least 10 feet from the house. Propane won't freeze unless it's exposed to oxygen and then it will frost the opening closed. When exposed to oxygen, it is way below zero. I've never looked it up but it's cold. The guy that drove the delivery tanker for the company I worked for was attacked by 2 big dogs once and he gave one of the dogs a little blast of propane on the nose. That was more than enough to run the dog off. The knock against propane is the explosiveness of it. And there is no arguing that point. The problem is, carelessness and ignorance of people mixing with the explosiveness of propane and then you really have a problem. Hey here's something probably only you can appreciate. A guy was getting ready to make his first solo sky dive. As he went out of the plane, he suddenly forgot everything he had learned. As his speed increased on the way down he kept fumbling around for the rip cord. When he looked down, he saw a guy coming up at him from the ground. He yelled to the guy :Hey! Know anything about parachutes? As the guy went past him he yelled No! Know anything about gas grills? - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 9:24 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors. HMM, you learn something every day. I didn't think propane would be a good heating source for a hole house. Everywhere I've lived, you either heated with natural gas or fuel oil. So, when you heat with propane, are the tanks inside the house? I mean, doesn't propane have issues if it gets too cold? I mean, doesn't it start to have problems vaporizing? Anyway, here are the make and models of my alarms. First Alert SCO501CN-3ST ONELINK Battery Operated Combination Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm with Voice Location $69 First Alert SA511CN2-3ST ONELINK Wireless Battery Operated Smoke Alarm with Voice Location, 2-Pack $89 -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors.
yes they do, they have a combination natural gas and propane detector. A HomeDepot sales rep was trying to sell me one when I was putting in new smoke and CO2 detectors in our last house where we had propane. He told me to hang it on the ceiling in the furnace room, by the furnace and water heater, and it will let me know when there was a propane leak. I couldn't get him to understand that propane is heavy, so if I wanted to detect a propane leak early I needed to put it on the floor. Oh, I miss our propane, I hate this natural gas stuff, costs to damn much. What brand were these wireless ones? I wonder if they can work with wired ones as well? I will be installing Kidde wired with battery backup in the addition that i am still redoing, and these would be great for the older part where i am not going to run new wiring yet. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 9:32 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors. Do they make a propane detector? If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 9:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors. If you'd stop smoking you wouldn't need a detector... hahaha The only time your theory with height has a problem is if you heat with propane. Propane is very heavy and thus they recommend 18 inches from the floor. But, that is only if anyone heats with propane. I've seen the recommendations of higher levels for the carbon monoxide detectors too. In fact if you are a landlord in North Carolina, you are now required to provide a detector. The model I bought has a cord that pulls out to plug it in. If there is a cord, have to figure they don't mean for it to sit on the floor. I would have to find the law again but as I remember it says no less then 36 inches from the floor. Most I've talked to that know what they are talking about say to mount detectors close to the height of the thermostat. Smoke detectors are recommended over doors because smoke will roller coaster as it goes from room to room. Sorry I'm lacking on examples and details but that's why your emails are so good... - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 9:37 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors. So, I just got some battery operated, wirelessly inter connected, voice announcing, smoke or smoke and Carbon Monoxide detectors. I got one combination smoke and C O detector, and two smoke detectors. The combo unit will go in the basement, and then one smoke detector on the main floor, and one in the hallway on the second floor. You program each one for the location it is in, and then if any one of them go off, all of them go off and tell you what the danger is, and where it is. IE, if the unit in the basement activates because of a carbon monoxide issue,, and it is late at night and we are snug in our beds on the second floor, all of the units, will alarm, then say, EVACUATE! CARBON MONOXIDE IN THE BASEMENT! Since these are battery operated, and wireless, there are no wires to run. Makes it quite easy to install. Just hang them on the ceiling and you are good to go. Before anyone starts raising your hand and saying that Carbon Monoxide is heavier than air and thus the detectors should be near the floor, you are mistaken. I've done a lot of research on this. There are many web sites that make this invalid claim. But the real science is more convincing. Air is made of Nitrogen, N2, with an molecular mass of 28. And Oxygen, O2, with an molecular mass of 32. Carbon Monoxide is made of a Carbon atom, atomic mass 12, and one Oxygen, atomic mass 16, giving it an molecular mass of 28, equal to N2, and lighter than Oxygen. Add to that, the fact that C O is going to be a product of combustion, IE, it will be warm and thus convect upward, and you get quite a good mix of the air and C O. Some manufacturers say to put the Co detector on the wall at eye level, but that is more for the fact that many CO detectors have visual displays showing the Parts Per Million of CO in the air, and thus it makes more sense to put it somewhere where it is more easily seen on a regular basis. I thought these were worth mentioning. They're not that cheap, the combo unit was 70 bucks, and the two pack of smoke detectors was 90 I think. I got the combo direct from amazon, but the smoke detector twin pack came from EAccess via amazon. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind.
here is the link again, I tested it and it works. If your e-mail wraps it, you will need to cut and paste it into the address bar and remove all spaces. http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0401-conditioned-crawl-s pace-construction-performance-and-codes/view It is a report on crawl spaces, which, essentially, I think it was Max was asking about, for the teddy bear cottage and house being on a few rows of blocks. The report explains vented, and conditioned crawl spaces, and gives data on using conditioned crawl spaces. Instead of starting a debate on whether a crawl space should be vented or not, I thought it was best to give a link to scientific evidence. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 8:08 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. I got an old 404 not found. So please tell of it's advantages, disadvantages; and absolute must have situations. Thanks On Mon, 11 Jan 2010, Michael baldwin wrote: check out this publication, it should help you out. http://www.building http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0401-conditioned-crawl- s science.com/documents/reports/rr-0401-conditioned-crawl-s pace-construction-performance-and-codes/view Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Max Robinson Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 8:37 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. Both my shop and Sue's teddybear cottage are sitting on blocks with the bottom of the siding about 12 inches above ground. We have thought about installing 1 by 12 treated boards around them to keep the cold wind from infiltrating underneath and taking away heat. One reservation I have is trapping ground moisture under the buildings. This would be a permanent year round installation. What are the thoughts of all you handy men and women? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace. mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com com Transistor site http://www.funwitht http://www.funwitht http://www.funwithtransistors.net ransistors.net ransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwitht http://www.funwitht http://www.funwithtubes.net ubes.net ubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusi http://www.maxsmusi http://www.maxsmusicplace.com cplace.com cplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors- mailto:funwithtransistors-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com subscr...@yahoogrou mailto:subscribe%40yahoogroups.com ps.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes- mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com subscr...@yahoogrou mailto:subscribe%40yahoogroups.com ps.com - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone se...@mailsent. mailto:sedac%40mailsent.net net To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 7:52 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. 7 we still pak snow on theNorth and West side of the house after the first few snow falls. does great for stopping some drafts. and for the bilco doors we cover them with plastic and pile the shnow on top of that. Lee On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 07:30:40PM -0600, William Stephan wrote: Yes Dale, very helpful. The guy at the lumber yard I talked to was trying to sell me plastic sheeting like you might cover a window with, so I'm going to have to do some more research into what we have available here. Thanks again. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 17:10 To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. The Polystyrene we buy usually comes in 2 by 8 sheets with rebate like edges so that they can overlap. It comes in various thicknesses, usually inch and a half or two inches. You can cut it with a hand saw or even score it deeply then snap it but that isn't as nice an edge. for some reason they usually colour it blue to distinguish it from the open cell Styrofoam, this stuff is a higher insulation value. There is special sealing tape, it is a lot like the wide packing tape you are probably familiar with, when I bought it it was red I don't know if that is significant. The point is to insulate but also to keep warm air, particularly when you have paid to heat it inside. Now this stuff can be flammable and is best covered if there is any significant risk of exposure to open flame. It can also
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind.
Well, I confess, I have not had personal experience with the liquid nails eating the foam, but i didn't want to take the chance, when the stuff I had for sub-floors specifically said not to use with foam. And any other liquid nails product we found in the store said not for use with foam. Could be just a ploy to get us to buy the more expensive stuff. termites will tunnel through the foam, so it makes it harder to know they are there. Not sure how many termites you have up there. i have had foam left in the sun, and it didn't take long for it to start to dry and flake and start to brake down. don't know if that is a difference in location, you getting less sunlight up there year round. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 8:30 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. Interesting! I used Liquid Nails out of a gallon can applied with a notched trowel to apply two layers of the extruded Polystyrene foam around the outside of my basement walls nearly 20 years ago and so far it has not damaged the foam as far as I can tell. Of course a lot of it is well below ground where I can't tell but there is some exposed still around basement windows on the north side which I just haven't yet got around to finishing yet and it is just fine. We don't have any trouble with termites so far up here so I don't have any personal experience with that, I have never heard of any insect interest in any types of polythene, foamed or otherwise. Gasoline will certainly eat the foam, I have just put a scrap into a small container of Varsol, I expect it might eat the stuff but so far no reaction. I only have one piece stuffed into a space between the concrete basement steps and the foundation on the west side, it has been there at least 18 years with apparently no damage from the exposure although it would not surprise me to find UV would damage it, it seems to make even specially treated Vinyl siding go brittle over time. Still, if it is exposed to the external environment it isn't robust against mechanical damage like abrasion and not particularly pretty esthetically. Actually the heavy plastic might nearly be enough given the biggest heat loss will be air infiltration. There are special grades though with ultraviolet resistance if sun will contact it. Still, by the time you go to that much trouble you probably want the insulation, about R8 for inch and a half and R10 for two inch. How much is enough is always one of those cost-benefit things. you get probably less than R3 from even very good double pane windows so excessive insulation below a sun room with lots of glass is probably redundant. If the cost difference of material is negligible might as well go the extra, it will be the same amount of work. For best outcomes though take as much care as you can to seal air leaks. One way that I have used with good success is some of that polyethylene foam you sometime see it in packing, it comes in rolls of various widths probably less than a quarter inch thick. I used it places like joining the extension to the house or in some places like sealing doors and windows to the vapour barrier. Run a bead of calk and set the strip into it and fix it with a few staples then fix the other edge to the foam board also with sticky calk. In the case of my windows I ran it around the window frame in calk and staples then when the window was fitted into the hole pull the foam tape against the vapour barrier and calk and stick it there. Then finish up with a squirt of foam to fill any voids between the frame of the window and the framing of the building. Just how you might do that though depends a lot on the foundation under the sun room. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 8:47 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. Liquid nails will eat the foam. You need to use a glue designed for foam, PL300 is what comes to mind. The tape is house wrap tape. The xps comes blue, Dow Chemical, and pink, Owens Corning. Around here the pink tends to be much cheaper, not sure why, the R value of 5 per inch is the same. Because, from what i gather, the xps would be installed outside, you need to add something to it to protect it from the weather and UV rays. Some people use a stucco finish, or others use 1/4 inch treated plywood. If the xps is going to be touching the ground, you need to get the stuff that is designed for that. Bugs like to tunnel through it, especially termites. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 5:10
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind.
check out this publication, it should help you out. http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0401-conditioned-crawl-s pace-construction-performance-and-codes/view Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Max Robinson Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 8:37 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. Both my shop and Sue's teddybear cottage are sitting on blocks with the bottom of the siding about 12 inches above ground. We have thought about installing 1 by 12 treated boards around them to keep the cold wind from infiltrating underneath and taking away heat. One reservation I have is trapping ground moisture under the buildings. This would be a permanent year round installation. What are the thoughts of all you handy men and women? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace. mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com com Transistor site http://www.funwitht http://www.funwithtransistors.net ransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwitht http://www.funwithtubes.net ubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusi http://www.maxsmusicplace.com cplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors- mailto:funwithtransistors-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes- mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone se...@mailsent. mailto:sedac%40mailsent.net net To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 7:52 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. 7 we still pak snow on theNorth and West side of the house after the first few snow falls. does great for stopping some drafts. and for the bilco doors we cover them with plastic and pile the shnow on top of that. Lee On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 07:30:40PM -0600, William Stephan wrote: Yes Dale, very helpful. The guy at the lumber yard I talked to was trying to sell me plastic sheeting like you might cover a window with, so I'm going to have to do some more research into what we have available here. Thanks again. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 17:10 To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. The Polystyrene we buy usually comes in 2 by 8 sheets with rebate like edges so that they can overlap. It comes in various thicknesses, usually inch and a half or two inches. You can cut it with a hand saw or even score it deeply then snap it but that isn't as nice an edge. for some reason they usually colour it blue to distinguish it from the open cell Styrofoam, this stuff is a higher insulation value. There is special sealing tape, it is a lot like the wide packing tape you are probably familiar with, when I bought it it was red I don't know if that is significant. The point is to insulate but also to keep warm air, particularly when you have paid to heat it inside. Now this stuff can be flammable and is best covered if there is any significant risk of exposure to open flame. It can also be helpful for holding it into place. You can run screws through something like particle board and the foam into structure beyond it. I have used wide washers, a couple of inches to hold the heads of screws to hold it into place. A little glue like liquid nails or even some calking on the structure then press the foam into it should also work well in your application. Hope this helps. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 3:14 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. Dale: all good points really. The only reason I was thinking about a temporary set up is that occasionally, the varmint-killing cat leaves us a little something under the porch until the possums get it. But, of course, if the foundation were blocked he wouldn't be doing that in any case. The roof itself, according to the manufacturer, is pretty well insolated. It's about five or six inches thick. If the snow ever meltsz, I'll go see what the lumber yard has in terms of Extruded Polystyrene. Thanks for the eye-opener. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 21:14 To:
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind.
Liquid nails will eat the foam. You need to use a glue designed for foam, PL300 is what comes to mind. The tape is house wrap tape. The xps comes blue, Dow Chemical, and pink, Owens Corning. Around here the pink tends to be much cheaper, not sure why, the R value of 5 per inch is the same. Because, from what i gather, the xps would be installed outside, you need to add something to it to protect it from the weather and UV rays. Some people use a stucco finish, or others use 1/4 inch treated plywood. If the xps is going to be touching the ground, you need to get the stuff that is designed for that. Bugs like to tunnel through it, especially termites. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 5:10 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. The Polystyrene we buy usually comes in 2 by 8 sheets with rebate like edges so that they can overlap. It comes in various thicknesses, usually inch and a half or two inches. You can cut it with a hand saw or even score it deeply then snap it but that isn't as nice an edge. for some reason they usually colour it blue to distinguish it from the open cell Styrofoam, this stuff is a higher insulation value. There is special sealing tape, it is a lot like the wide packing tape you are probably familiar with, when I bought it it was red I don't know if that is significant. The point is to insulate but also to keep warm air, particularly when you have paid to heat it inside. Now this stuff can be flammable and is best covered if there is any significant risk of exposure to open flame. It can also be helpful for holding it into place. You can run screws through something like particle board and the foam into structure beyond it. I have used wide washers, a couple of inches to hold the heads of screws to hold it into place. A little glue like liquid nails or even some calking on the structure then press the foam into it should also work well in your application. Hope this helps. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 3:14 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. Dale: all good points really. The only reason I was thinking about a temporary set up is that occasionally, the varmint-killing cat leaves us a little something under the porch until the possums get it. But, of course, if the foundation were blocked he wouldn't be doing that in any case. The roof itself, according to the manufacturer, is pretty well insolated. It's about five or six inches thick. If the snow ever meltsz, I'll go see what the lumber yard has in terms of Extruded Polystyrene. Thanks for the eye-opener. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 21:14 To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. Is there any good reason why you wouldn't want to block air infiltration in the summer as well? It would be my inclination to wrap the inside of what ever skirting you have around the deck foundation with something like extruded polystyrene sheets and seal them together with the tape sold for that purpose. I would look for ways of sealing it tightly at the top and bottom, keep any air from entering or leaving except between the room and under the floor. Unless the dogs are piddling through the deck or for some other reason you need to air the area to keep stink down there isn't any good reason to loose heated or cooled air to the good outdoors and, it is expensive as well. I would consider insulating under the roof as well if there is a convenient and practical way to do so. You would probably find your heater raised the temperature 50 or 60 degrees, you might even find you want to turn it off quite a bit. If you feel the need to circulate air through the structure you can always open the windows and in that way choose when and how much cold you require. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 9:40 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Blocking the wind. All: We have a sort of three-season room on the north side of our house. It faces off into a yard surrounded by privacy fences and a couple garages. The room is sort of unique. It started life as just an open deck. We had a pre-fabricated aluminum room added shortly after we took up residence here. This room is all aluminum and glass with two aluminum doors and many sliding windows. During
RE: [BlindHandyMan] compresser question
Buy a model that don't use oil. You can have someone help mark the dipstick at the correct level, then attempt to feel with your fingers the oil on the dipstick. don't work all that well for me though. or Use a piece of tubing, and blow through one end of the tube as you slowly lower it in to the oil, and when you start to blow oil bubbles, check your mark, You will need to setup a mark on the tube with something on the compressor for the right oil level. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 8:32 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] compresser question How do you know when you have enough oil in a compresser? I know what you will likely say look at the gage. Little hard to do when you are totally blind. Sure, I could get sighted help, but would like to do this independenly. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Insulated Basement?
I wouldn't say drafty, unless there are holes in your basement that have not been filled in. But cooler in the winter, yes. Research has shown an insolated basement can save up to 30% or so on your heating bills. The place to concentrate on first would be the rim joists, the space above your concrete basement wall where your floor joists are. If a rim joist seal was not put in, you could run a bead of caulk where the concrete and wood meet, all the way around the basement, then fill the cavities with insulation. The best is closed cell spray foam, and the most expensive. Fiberglass or some other bat insulation will work as well, just cut to fit in the cavities, but do not compress it, it loses its insulation abilities when compressed. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Claudia Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 5:58 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Insulated Basement? Hi All, Would it be safe to say that, if the basement is not insulated, the main floor of the house will become more drafty? We had all that work done to our basement, but we have not yet insulated it; there is no dry wall no insulation! It's just brick walls concrete flors now! Claudia MSN: cdelreal1973@ mailto:cdelreal1973%40sbcglobal.net sbcglobal.net Skype: claudiadr2009 Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. our-safe-haven- mailto:our-safe-haven-subscribe%40googlegroups.com subscr...@googlegroups.com makinghouseworkeasi mailto:makinghouseworkeasier-subscribe%40googlegroups.com er-subscr...@googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Remote Recommendations
I have personal experience with the Logitech Harmony 700, and my advice, stay away. it does have some nice features, like what they call activity buttons, so if you hit watch TV, it turns on your TV, AV receiver, and cable/satellite box. and it sets the AV receiver to control volume. We, my wife, I and the salesman thought it would work for me after my wife got it all programmed, but it does not. it does not have a touch screen, just an LCD, but so much is still done through the LCD. For example, if I wanted to control just the AV receiver, I would have to select devices from the LCD, and find it, and hit enter on it. My biggest complaint is if I hit the watch TV button, and not everything works, you can go through steps to fix the problem, but that is only on the LCD screen, and my wife isn't around all the time to fix it. to program it, you connect it to your computer via USB, and use their software, which is not at all screen reader friendly. So, it is going back to Best Buy today. I think the other Logitech harmony remotes have touch screens. i have posted on their message board asking for suggestions of older remotes that might work, and if I hear something I will post it back here. I will also be asking my electronics special store today, since I have to go pick up some speakers anyways. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dave Mitchell Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 8:10 AM To: blind handyman Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Remote Recommendations Greetings: Anybody have experience with entertainment center universal remote controllers? For my sighted wife and me, I am looking for an all in one unit that would handle the TV, DVR, surround sound and a CD/VHS movie player unit. I have looked at the Logitech site but their models seem to have quite a price range spread. And I probably missed some deals on Cyber Monday but hopefully there are still some deals to come. Thanks for any suggestions. Mitch [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] l e d Christmas lights
The ones I have are wired so if one bulb goes out, the rest still work. Michael -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 9:17 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] l e d Christmas lights Are the l e d Christmas light strings wired serial? If not I could make a longer string from two strings. There is a 50 light set that is 25 feet long. I would like to have a string about 36 feet long. If I could I would cut and splice. I have some heat shrink that would make the splice waterproof. This light sets are rated indoor/outdoor use. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
[BlindHandyMan] Plumbing rough in
Hi, For my plumbing rough in, what is the best height for the stub outs for the supply and drain on a bathroom vanity, and for the stub out on a toilet? Thanks, Michael
RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question
I would almost guess that the peak hp of that motor is 3.5, but the continuous hp is around 1.5- 2.0. Which basically means, that if all the right conditions existed, that motor could put out 3.5 hp. Which, connected to a 20 amp 120 volt outlet won't happen. Convert it to 240 volt, and then it won't be a problem. It is a marketing ploy that a lot of treadmill manufactures use, they give you the peak hp of the motor. i have seen some treadmill motors now use PWM (pulse Width modulation), which means nothing to me, so I don't know how this effects HP of an electric motor. Or some electric motors actually run on D/C, and not A/C, again, I have no clue how that will effect HP of the motor, I know it makes the motor more energy efficient. To make things even more confusing, some treadmill manufactures rate their motor HP at the final drive, after all gear ratios and such. It is hard to compare them apples to apples. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Edward Przybylek Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:48 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi Dale, Pretty much, what you said is what I thought but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. How would I verify the horsepower of the motor? Both the manual and the label on the side of the motor claim it's 3.5 HP. My knowledge of electricity and motors is almost 0. Any information is greatly appreciated. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:02 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Well, it isn't the end of the world to trip a breaker so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I can however pretty well guarantee that motor isn't anything near 3.5 hp. regardless what they rate it at or tell you. Why would it have to be anyway, one horsepower is 550 foot pounds per second. Unless you are running an elephant or you have quite spectacular foot pounds you won't be taxing a motor anything like that hard. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:11 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question Hi all, I've been following this thread with much interest because we just purchased a new treadmill. The unit has a 3.5 horsepower motor, is capable of a 12% incline and has a top speed of 10 MPH. This discussion thread has concerned itself with motors 2.5 HP and lower and whether there needs to be a concern about breaker ratings. Given that this unit has a motor with 3.5 HP, are there concerns I should be addressing? We use the treadmill for power walking and I'm quite sure it will never see speeds much over 5 or 6 MPH. We've had the incline up to 8 percent and I'm sure we'll have it up to the 12% maximum before too long. We haven't popped a breaker yet but I just want to be sure that there isn't something I should be doing just as a precaution. Thanks. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 1:43 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question David, One Horsepower is generally considered to require about 750 watts. so 2.25 HP will need a solid 1700 watts. This is probably a peak rating, but none th less it must be on a 20 amp circuit that isn't used much. If you have a coule 200 watt outside lights on at the same time, it will get very close to the max rating of a 20 amp circuit. tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Backfeeding question
I think they are called grid connect systems. Some how it knows that you are able to get power in to your house, so it either provides your house with juice, or sends it out to the grid, depending on your usage. When the power company goes out, the grid connect system knows that, and kills your power as well. So, even if you have Solar or wind power to supplement the grid, you will need battery storage, or a generator for times when you might loose grid power, at least that is the info I found. Google grid connect system, or grid connect solar, and you can learn more. The rate you get paid will depend on location. Each country and state has laws to govern what you are paid. electric companies were not going to pay people for providing them with electricity, so the government had to step in and make laws. Some power companies want you to have 2 meters, one to measure the electricity you use, and one to measure what you supply the grid with, and others just let your meter spin backwards. Michael [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Ye beware the killer mailbox.
Not the same thing. Kids were smashing the mail box with a ball bat, so the guy filled it with concrete. The next time they hit the mail box the concrete filled mail box caused them to lose control of the car and crash and die. The guy filled the mail box with the concrete to intentionally hurt the people who were smashing it. If the power company started putting explosives in their pulls to blow up on impact, they would be liable, they were intending to do harm to those that ran in to it, drunk or not. But the polls are not put there for the purpose of hurting or killing people. All comes down to intent. Michael -- - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 7:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ye beware the killer mailbox. Hopefully that's just TV. Can the power company be held responsible if a drunk runs into a power pole? - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 9:44 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ye beware the killer mailbox. Arhrhr, I be watchin CSI Miami right now, and they just busted some guy cuz he made a cement mailbox cuz some scurvy dogs been smashin up his mailbox. Well, these scurvy dogs came back and attempted to smash up his mailbox aghin, but then they lost control of thar car and they crashed and died. They bust mailbox man for two counts of neglagent homicide. -- Blue skies ye scurvy dog. International Talk Like a Pirate Day 09/19/2009 www.TalkLikeAPirate.com Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 PAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4441 (20090919) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4441 (20090919) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question.
It is kind of a long URL, you might have to paste and copy all of it into your web browser and take out any spaces. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 5:08 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. for some reason this link didn't work for me. On Mon, 14 Sep 2009, Michael baldwin wrote: Dale, You might want to read this report http://www.building http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-102-understanding-atti c science.com/documents/digests/bsd-102-understanding-attic -ventilation/?full_view=1 Sounds like a lot of work, your addition, and putting up the new exterior walls. IMO, you should have left the poly vapor barrier off, you can have some real nasty problems with 2 vapor barriers. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:26 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. First, the colour of the shingles certainly does make a difference however if you insulate the back side of that part of the roof you will retain the heat there, preventing ventilation and therefore cooling of that material. It is like throwing a blanket over a radiator, less heat into the room but it also keeps the radiator hot. No, Now as for my roof, it depends where you are looking. The new addition has insulation, then poly vapor barrier then insulation then ventilation space then the usual roof construction. Over the old part of the house there is insulation under the original roof, then its old decking and shingles, then the same poly vapor barrier as is over the rest of the building and then insulation over the cold side of the vapor barrier and then the new roof. Similarly, I had removed the exterior of the house, remove the blown in cellulose insulation discovering in the process that there were some partial bays with no insulation blown in and that the top couple of inches had settled since it had been installed. I then filled the bays with 4 inches of fiber glass, wrapped the building in poly vapor barrier then assembled a 2 by 6 wall exterior to that on 24 inch centers since it's main purpose is to support 6 inches of fiberglass and the exterior siding. I then covered that with oriented strand board and Tyvek house wrap and then the siding. I also replaced all the windows and exterior doors and continued the poly vapor barrier over the old basement walls to the footings covering the outside of that with 3 and a half inches of extruded Styrofoam also to the footings. The new addition has a pressure treated wood basement constructed much like the rest of the new addition, that is, 6 inch bearing walls with insulation on the cold side of the vapor barrier and four inches on the warm side. All wiring and now also plumbing can safely be run on the inside warm side of the vapor barrier with no penetrations for air. I have a mechanical ventilator in the attic running constantly with a heat recovery system slightly unbalanced to keep the living space just a little negatively pressured so as to further discourage any warm humid air into the insulation. It is as close to the R2000 standard I could get in this old house. there just wasn't any practical way to seal the vapor barrier under the cement basement floor but it does extend under the basement floor in the addition. I call it a new addition but it is now about 18 years old. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:49 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. --From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 5:14 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. ---snip--- If you insulate under the roof deck you will retain all of the radiant heat from the sun right there. The insulation wont allow any of that heat to dissipate. That may help to keep the living space cooler to some point at least but the shingles or what ever else the roof is made of will become outrageously hot in the sun. -- Shingle color has more to do with the roof temp than the insulation right under the deck of it. - ---snip--- In fact my roof is insulated sort of. I put an addition onto
RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question.
here, I made a shorter URL. http://www.greatarticlesite.com/attic.php _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 5:23 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. Me either. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 6:08 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. for some reason this link didn't work for me. On Mon, 14 Sep 2009, Michael baldwin wrote: Dale, You might want to read this report http://www.building http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-102-understanding-atti c science.com/documents/digests/bsd-102-understanding-attic -ventilation/?full_view=1 Sounds like a lot of work, your addition, and putting up the new exterior walls. IMO, you should have left the poly vapor barrier off, you can have some real nasty problems with 2 vapor barriers. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:26 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. First, the colour of the shingles certainly does make a difference however if you insulate the back side of that part of the roof you will retain the heat there, preventing ventilation and therefore cooling of that material. It is like throwing a blanket over a radiator, less heat into the room but it also keeps the radiator hot. No, Now as for my roof, it depends where you are looking. The new addition has insulation, then poly vapor barrier then insulation then ventilation space then the usual roof construction. Over the old part of the house there is insulation under the original roof, then its old decking and shingles, then the same poly vapor barrier as is over the rest of the building and then insulation over the cold side of the vapor barrier and then the new roof. Similarly, I had removed the exterior of the house, remove the blown in cellulose insulation discovering in the process that there were some partial bays with no insulation blown in and that the top couple of inches had settled since it had been installed. I then filled the bays with 4 inches of fiber glass, wrapped the building in poly vapor barrier then assembled a 2 by 6 wall exterior to that on 24 inch centers since it's main purpose is to support 6 inches of fiberglass and the exterior siding. I then covered that with oriented strand board and Tyvek house wrap and then the siding. I also replaced all the windows and exterior doors and continued the poly vapor barrier over the old basement walls to the footings covering the outside of that with 3 and a half inches of extruded Styrofoam also to the footings. The new addition has a pressure treated wood basement constructed much like the rest of the new addition, that is, 6 inch bearing walls with insulation on the cold side of the vapor barrier and four inches on the warm side. All wiring and now also plumbing can safely be run on the inside warm side of the vapor barrier with no penetrations for air. I have a mechanical ventilator in the attic running constantly with a heat recovery system slightly unbalanced to keep the living space just a little negatively pressured so as to further discourage any warm humid air into the insulation. It is as close to the R2000 standard I could get in this old house. there just wasn't any practical way to seal the vapor barrier under the cement basement floor but it does extend under the basement floor in the addition. I call it a new addition but it is now about 18 years old. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:49 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. --From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 5:14 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. ---snip--- If you insulate under the roof deck you will retain all of the radiant heat from the sun right there. The insulation wont allow any of that heat to dissipate. That may help to keep the living space cooler to some point at least but the shingles or what ever else the roof is made of will become outrageously hot
RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question.
Spraying the roof deck is not recommended if you live in northern climates. If you spray the roof deck, you need to completely seal up the attic, no vents, and you do not need to insolate the attic floor. You are making the roof part of your conditioned space, so you don't want any air leaks in it. if you spray foam insulation on the underside of the roof deck, you better make sure you have an excellent roof, with ice shield covering the entire roof. If not, when you develop a roof leak, it will take several years for it to show up, and in the time, your roof is rotting away. If the house is not built with spray foam in mind for the roof, I would just go with regular blown in cellulose Spray foam is not cheap, if you were to put r49 in the attic, that is about 7 inches of foam, I doubt you will ever recover your cost of insulation. Cellulose would take about 12 inches, and fiberglass blown in would take about 18-20 inches. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 10:18 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. I could see that if the vents were blocked. But if they aren't, wouldn't they work as before? As far as the ceiling goes, I thought when you sprayed foam under the roof deck, you turned the attic into a part of your living space. I'm a bit confused as everything I've seen suggests you can do this. They say if the roof is ventilated, don't block the vents, but that it still works. But it's also said the best way to do it is to not ventilate the roof and spray the entire underside with foam. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 8:29 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. He wouldn't spray the foam under the roof deck, that would negate the point of ventilating the space and further, he would lose the air sealing effect he would gain from covering the ceiling. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. So long as you don't block the vents you will be fine. Do you have recessed lighting? If so, be careful with those fixtures (especially if they are older) as they can get hot. Do you plan to spray foam on the floor or under the roof deck? Either one will work, but if you spray under the roof you will turn your attic into a storage space, which will be only a few degrees warmer or cooler than your living space. Shane - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 4:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. My attic has opening to allow blow through. Could I have this spray job done to save me long hours of dragging either pink or stryofoam up into that dusty oven? How will the flow of air work if it gets sprayed up there? On Sat, 12 Sep 2009, aadorno wrote: hi listers I am thinking about getting spray insilation for my house. the way this works is that they make a hole in the wall or floor and they spray in the insilation and after a bit it drys and expans in the space that it was sprayed in. my question is to the list is this. is any one on the list ever had this done to there walls. also is it safe? well that's it. thanks for your time, Angel. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question.
Not sure what the code is on that, but I think it has to be secured every 4 foot when ran along the bottom of a joist or rafter, and it needs to be stapled with in 8 inches of the box. I always just ran it across the floor of the attic and stapled it every so often, less wire used that way to. They make flexible stuff like your talking, but if you want it 3 inches, not sure it comes that way. And the flexible stuff i have seen has all been for low voltage wiring, phones, cable. I would use 3 inch pvc pipe. Put some kind of seal over the end to prevent air leaking from the basement out in to the attic, or little critters finding their way down. My parents have a 1926 ballooned framed house, and all the fiberglass blown in insulation has settled down, so there is no insulation on the second story. The guy that is coming to do my spray foam, also does cellulose, I will find out from him if it settles like fiberglass. I need insulation between my brick and plaster wall as well, but I only have about 1 to 1 and 1/2 inch air gap there. When I insulate that, I will do it from the inside, then just put up 1/4 drywall over the wall and have it finished and textured like the drywall work that I am getting done here soon. I will probably use a low expanding closed cell spray foam for that, but that will have to be a DIY project. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:05 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question. I am planning on having cellulose blown in sometime in the near future. They said they can use a 3/4 inch nozzle since they will have to drill through the mortar joints they want to use as small a nozzle as possible. Not only do they have to drill through the mortar joints, but then they have to drill through the wood cladding beyond the airgap behind the brick to get to the voids between the studs. I may hold off on having the attic done until I do some rewiring first. I'd rather not have to dig through 12 inches of cellulose to get to all the fixtures. Here is a vague plan, and a couple of questions. My house is balloon construction, so the joist bays run from the attic straight down to the basement. I've already pulled one set of wires from the second floor through to the basement. Anyway, I was thinking of trying to find some 3 inch flexible tubing, similar to the 4 inch flexible pipe I used for drainage around the basement door well. I would run this flexible tubing down from the attic to the basement in one or two places before having the insulation blown in, that way I would have a wire chase in place for future wiring projects. Does this kind of flexible tubing exist? Is there a reason why I wouldn't want to do this? Secondly, what is the code for running wiring through attics with blown in insulation? It seems like it would be a total pain in the ass to just bury the wiring under the insulation. Can you staple the wiring to the sloping rafters and then drop straight down from the rafter to the fixture in the ceiling below? It would make it quite obvious where the fixtures are, and you could easily see the wiring, but there would be these vertical wires scattered around your attic. Is that cosher? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] go green with soy instlallation
http://soythane.com/ It will cost more then my contractor is charging, but he is using a water based spray insulation. http://www.wisnieskiinsulation.com/insulation/spray-foam/ Well, now you all know what part of the country i live in. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brice Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 8:06 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] go green with soy instlallation That snappy little legume known as the soybean is now a force in green building. For decades, the soybean has been a staple of the agricultural economy. Now, soy-based products shine bright in a different spotlight. Soy-based emollients have been featured on shop-at-home cable television, soy roof coatings have been used in renovating the John G. Shedd Aquarium in Chicago, and soy elevator grease is doing its job in the Statute of Liberty in New York City. Much of the current attention garnered on the bean is on construction materials, especially in projects for clients with chemical sensitivities or allergies or who just want better indoor air quality. Soybean-based products contain no urea/formaldehyde and, while they are processed with chemicals, they release no volatile chemicals or other toxic emissions. Some of the soy-based products now on the market include carpet backings; wood and concrete coatings and stains; adhesives; roofing; and structural membrane coatings. Its latest role is as an insulating material. PHOTO Soy insulation is available as a spray-on foam, as well as in panels. Foam Insulation Resistant to mold and mildew, soy foam insulation is sprayed on; the product expands in the wall like similar products. According to the United Soybean Board (USB), soy insulation provides insulation characteristics that are as good as or better in four-inch walls as traditional batting insulations with six-inch stud construction. And unlike traditional batting, it's free of formaldehyde. Soy-based insulation may also reduce building costs by decreasing the amount of lumber used. Rigid foam soy insulation is new on the market, as well. One manufacturer, Urethane Soy Systems Co. (Volga, S.D.) touts its Soy Therm as having a density of 1/2 pound per cubic foot of rigid foam insulation. The USB has a cooperative initiative known as the national soybean checkoff. Under the program, an assessment of 0.5 (one-half) of 1 percent of the net market price of soybeans is collected, and all producers marketing soybeans must pay the assessment. The funds are used to promote and educate and conduct research on soybeans, and it seems to be working. Safety First Emega Technologies, Lancaster, Ohio, produces soy-based polyurethane foams, panels and a small-scale insulated concrete form manufacturing system. Owner Don Duffy says soy insulation is safer than other building products. Don says it's a natural for remodelers to offer soy-based insulation to customers, who increasingly request healthy homes. It does not emit gases and chemicals, long or short term, like those present in many other different types of building materials. It's easy to form into shapes and lightweight. Check these sources for more information on soy-based insulation: United Soybean Board __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4423 (20090914) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset. http://www.eset.com com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question.
Don't know... HD or Lowe's might carry cellulose as well as loose fill fiberglass. I will find out next week when I get a quote from my spray foam contractor. Attic has R 11 roles, and some loose fiberglass on top of that, in the living space only, nothing in the attached garage. Not sure if the garage matters to much, but it has got to help some to have that insulated. heating was 350-400 per month, for the last person that lived here. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 7:21 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. so what's the cost of Cellulose compared to fiberglass? On Mon, 14 Sep 2009, Michael baldwin wrote: Spraying the roof deck is not recommended if you live in northern climates. If you spray the roof deck, you need to completely seal up the attic, no vents, and you do not need to insolate the attic floor. You are making the roof part of your conditioned space, so you don't want any air leaks in it. if you spray foam insulation on the underside of the roof deck, you better make sure you have an excellent roof, with ice shield covering the entire roof. If not, when you develop a roof leak, it will take several years for it to show up, and in the time, your roof is rotting away. If the house is not built with spray foam in mind for the roof, I would just go with regular blown in cellulose Spray foam is not cheap, if you were to put r49 in the attic, that is about 7 inches of foam, I doubt you will ever recover your cost of insulation. Cellulose would take about 12 inches, and fiberglass blown in would take about 18-20 inches. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 10:18 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. I could see that if the vents were blocked. But if they aren't, wouldn't they work as before? As far as the ceiling goes, I thought when you sprayed foam under the roof deck, you turned the attic into a part of your living space. I'm a bit confused as everything I've seen suggests you can do this. They say if the roof is ventilated, don't block the vents, but that it still works. But it's also said the best way to do it is to not ventilate the roof and spray the entire underside with foam. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 8:29 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. He wouldn't spray the foam under the roof deck, that would negate the point of ventilating the space and further, he would lose the air sealing effect he would gain from covering the ceiling. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. So long as you don't block the vents you will be fine. Do you have recessed lighting? If so, be careful with those fixtures (especially if they are older) as they can get hot. Do you plan to spray foam on the floor or under the roof deck? Either one will work, but if you spray under the roof you will turn your attic into a storage space, which will be only a few degrees warmer or cooler than your living space. Shane - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 4:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. My attic has opening to allow blow through. Could I have this spray job done to save me long hours of dragging either pink or stryofoam up into that dusty oven? How will the flow of air work if it gets sprayed up there? On Sat, 12 Sep 2009, aadorno wrote: hi listers I am thinking about getting spray insilation for my house. the way this works is that they make a hole in the wall or floor and they spray in the insilation and after a bit it drys and expans in the space that it was sprayed in. my question is to the list is this. is any one on the list ever had this done to there walls. also is it safe? well that's it. thanks for your time, Angel. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text
RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question.
--From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 5:14 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. ---snip--- If you insulate under the roof deck you will retain all of the radiant heat from the sun right there. The insulation wont allow any of that heat to dissipate. That may help to keep the living space cooler to some point at least but the shingles or what ever else the roof is made of will become outrageously hot in the sun. -- Shingle color has more to do with the roof temp than the insulation right under the deck of it. - ---snip--- In fact my roof is insulated sort of. I put an addition onto a house which is a story and three-quarters, that is, the walls front and back slope and become the ceiling. I did not wish to use the same balloon style construction for the addition and didn't much like having that top bit of the wall only the four inches thick of the roof rafters so, while keeping the similar design inside I built a second roof that runs over the entire first roof and the new addition. I then insulated over the original roof and the dummy ceiling part of the extended roof with 18 inches of glass fiber. this also allowed me to run a continuous poly vapor barrier right over the original roof and under the insulation and second roof. I have insulated under the original roof as well, over the warm side of the vapor barrier. The attic space then is part of the heated environment and the old and false roof actually perform the - So, am i following this right, you have vaper barrier, insulation, old roof decking, felt paper, old roof shingles, poly vaper barrier, insulation, air gap, new roof deck and shingles??? - Michael [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question.
Dale, You might want to read this report http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-102-understanding-attic -ventilation/?full_view=1 Sounds like a lot of work, your addition, and putting up the new exterior walls. IMO, you should have left the poly vapor barrier off, you can have some real nasty problems with 2 vapor barriers. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:26 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. First, the colour of the shingles certainly does make a difference however if you insulate the back side of that part of the roof you will retain the heat there, preventing ventilation and therefore cooling of that material. It is like throwing a blanket over a radiator, less heat into the room but it also keeps the radiator hot. No, Now as for my roof, it depends where you are looking. The new addition has insulation, then poly vapor barrier then insulation then ventilation space then the usual roof construction. Over the old part of the house there is insulation under the original roof, then its old decking and shingles, then the same poly vapor barrier as is over the rest of the building and then insulation over the cold side of the vapor barrier and then the new roof. Similarly, I had removed the exterior of the house, remove the blown in cellulose insulation discovering in the process that there were some partial bays with no insulation blown in and that the top couple of inches had settled since it had been installed. I then filled the bays with 4 inches of fiber glass, wrapped the building in poly vapor barrier then assembled a 2 by 6 wall exterior to that on 24 inch centers since it's main purpose is to support 6 inches of fiberglass and the exterior siding. I then covered that with oriented strand board and Tyvek house wrap and then the siding. I also replaced all the windows and exterior doors and continued the poly vapor barrier over the old basement walls to the footings covering the outside of that with 3 and a half inches of extruded Styrofoam also to the footings. The new addition has a pressure treated wood basement constructed much like the rest of the new addition, that is, 6 inch bearing walls with insulation on the cold side of the vapor barrier and four inches on the warm side. All wiring and now also plumbing can safely be run on the inside warm side of the vapor barrier with no penetrations for air. I have a mechanical ventilator in the attic running constantly with a heat recovery system slightly unbalanced to keep the living space just a little negatively pressured so as to further discourage any warm humid air into the insulation. It is as close to the R2000 standard I could get in this old house. there just wasn't any practical way to seal the vapor barrier under the cement basement floor but it does extend under the basement floor in the addition. I call it a new addition but it is now about 18 years old. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:49 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. --From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 5:14 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. ---snip--- If you insulate under the roof deck you will retain all of the radiant heat from the sun right there. The insulation wont allow any of that heat to dissipate. That may help to keep the living space cooler to some point at least but the shingles or what ever else the roof is made of will become outrageously hot in the sun. -- Shingle color has more to do with the roof temp than the insulation right under the deck of it. - ---snip--- In fact my roof is insulated sort of. I put an addition onto a house which is a story and three-quarters, that is, the walls front and back slope and become the ceiling. I did not wish to use the same balloon style construction for the addition and didn't much like having that top bit of the wall only the four inches thick of the roof rafters so, while keeping the similar design inside I built a second roof that runs over the entire first roof and the new addition. I then insulated over the original roof and the dummy ceiling part of the extended roof with 18 inches of glass fiber. this also allowed me to run a continuous poly vapor barrier right over the original roof and under the insulation and second roof. I have insulated under the original roof as well, over the warm side of the vapor
RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question.
have not had it done yet, but will be done in a few weeks, but in your case, they have to use a slower expanding foam, or it will blow your walls out. My walls are open, so they can spray it right in. The spray guy told me he doesn't do the slower expanding, cause the equipment was very expensive, and it has the potential to be very messy, if the installer gets it on the floor, furniture, etc... Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of aadorno Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 1:12 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question. hi listers I am thinking about getting spray insilation for my house. the way this works is that they make a hole in the wall or floor and they spray in the insilation and after a bit it drys and expans in the space that it was sprayed in. my question is to the list is this. is any one on the list ever had this done to there walls. also is it safe? well that's it. thanks for your time, Angel. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] installing a new light switch in a bathroom
There is no code for how far the light switch can be away from the door. But for comfort reasons, you want it no more then a forearms reach in the door. When I put switches in, the top is 48 from the ground, and I add a scrap piece of 2x4 to the 2x4 that is making up the rough opening for the door. that seems to be pretty comfortable. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Howell Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 4:30 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] installing a new light switch in a bathroom Folks, I'm actually moving a switch from behind the door of the bathroom to just inside the door where it really should be. How anyone could have done such a silly thing is beyond me. Ok, so forget all the reasons, but I know why they installed it behind the door and it really comes down to not having either planned well or something prevented them from installing inside the door. Admittedly, it was easy to install I'm sure cause you can get to the wiring etc. from inside the utility room and they didn't even have to run through the beams, they just went around them. So, here is the issue and question. I made two small test holes and found there appears to be a stud about 3 to 5 inches or so from the door frame, which is kind of curious. I stuffed a coat hanger in there and tried to fish around to get some idea of space, but I swear I'm hitting more than a stud but short of cutting the wall open, I have no idea what the hell is in there and that may be just what I do. So, lets say for the sake of argument that I can't get a single gang box in there, how far from the edge of the doorframe can you place a switch? The question is twofold in that of course I need to check local code assuming there is one, but also I wouldn't want it to look funny either. Of course I could just leave well enough alone and the switches stay behind the door. Actually, what I have behind the door is the switches for the light and fan, a non-GFI outlet in a completely separate box, and finally a junction box with a blank plate that houses the amazing mess of wires that makes the whole thing work. Just to show how weird the whole thing is, I got someone to help install a three-way switch arrangement in the full-bath upstairs because the fan and light switches were not inside the door as you'd thing, but the builder put the switches on the wall the door opens against, which also has a door into the master bedroom. Any thoughts are appreciated. I guess I could always move. :) Well not yet, I think I'll have the next one built. :) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Concrete wall needs a hole
Any suggestions for punching a 3 and 1/2 inch hole through a solid concrete wall? Thanks, Michael
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Concrete wall needs a hole
Didn't know they made a bit that big, but I will check with my closest rental store 70 miles away. Not sure the 140 miles round trip and lost time is worth it, but I know how difficult concrete can be. _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 10:31 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Concrete wall needs a hole Having punched a five inch hole through a 12+ inch concrete wall, I will tell you the way not to do it is with a hammer and chisel. Rent a demolition hammer drill and the big-ass 3.5 inch bit from a tool rental or big box store and do it in a matter of tens of minutes. Trust me, it is worth the money. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
oops, yep i typed it wrong, that would be a huge house. _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:48 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I think he meant fifteen hundred square feet, and I also see below that his electric bill is about 100 per month. My parents live in Reno, Nevada, and after many years of trying different settings for the thermostat, they believe that leaving the temperature the same all the time is best. At 07:38 PM 8/11/2009, you wrote: Shane, Actually, i wouldn't build a house right now. with the current house market, you can probably buy something better then you can build for that price. And if you build, it will probably be worth less than it cost to build. that aside, I think building a house would be fun, and I hope to in 5 years. if your 80k budget does not include purchasing a lot, you might want to see what lots are selling for where you want to build, assuming you are going to need to buy one. 15000 sq/ft house for 80k...well, that will be tuff, $53.33 per sq/ft. They say the average is $115 per sq/ft of home for a basic house. But I am sure it can be done. If you want energy efficient, spend the majority of your money on your building envelope. things like light fixture, flooring, cabinets, etc... can be upgraded at a later date when you have the money for it. Cost will be different for you, than they are for me, so you need to speak with contractors to get ideas of what things will cost. Compare using closed cell spray foam to other methods of insulation. It is about an R7 per inch, and seals against air leaks as well. So in a 2x4 wall, you will have an R value of 24.5. Add 1 inch of xps foam to the outside, that has an R of 5, and you have a 29.5 R value wall. Closed cell spray foam runs about $4 per sq/ft of 2x4 wall here. 2x4's are a little less expensive than 2x6's, and much less than going with something like ICF's. 2x4's will give you a few more sq/ft of interior space. Closed cell foam also adds to the strength of your walls. if you do not mind vinyl windows, I would go with something like the American Craftsman sold at Home Depot. They are reasonably priced and are pretty good windows. They make the vinyl for Anderson Windows. But they are about half the price of an Anderson or Pella window. Go with a non-vented attic. Insulation, spray foam is best, is put right against the underside of the roof deck. This makes the attic part of your conditioned air. This does not increase the roof temp by more than a couple of degrees, like some will have you believe, and you do not have that hot attic air working it's way back down in to your house. When you do this, the roof should have a layer of water and ice shield on the whole roof though, instead of roofing paper. The reason for this, is to give you a extra layer of protection if your shingles were to fail. With the insulation right against the roof deck, leaks can take a lot longer to show up. Use a light colored shingle, or roof coating, to reflect the heat back away from the house. The HVAC contractor needs to run a manual J to size your a/c and heat properly. . Systems to small or to big can cost you more money. Radiate floor heating can make a house feel more comfortable at a lower temp, but you will not have that many heating days, and a central air system needs the blower to circulate the air, so you might as will just used forced heat and air. All that stuff about turning back the thermostat at night, and up during the day, doesn't really work in my experience and opinion, your best to only change it be a degree or to, or just leave it at the same temp all the time. Try to use standard sized products in your house build. Example windows, a stock window is much less than a custom ordered one. try to keep your dimensions divisible by 4, there is less waste of product, so you are buying a few sheets less of plywood and such. Michael _ From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 2:50 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I'm looking to build a 1500 sq foot 1 story house. Here's some information about a house I'm currently in. It is about 1280 sq feet. It has standard 2x4 walls with fiberglass bats. The windows are single panes in aluminum frames. The doors are insulated metal. The attic has standard bats, but on top of this, there is blown insulation. I think it's about r38 in total. I keep the ac at 78 during the day, 75 during the night. In the dead of summer, my bill is between $150 and $160. My goal in
RE: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
Shane, Actually, i wouldn't build a house right now. with the current house market, you can probably buy something better then you can build for that price. And if you build, it will probably be worth less than it cost to build. that aside, I think building a house would be fun, and I hope to in 5 years. if your 80k budget does not include purchasing a lot, you might want to see what lots are selling for where you want to build, assuming you are going to need to buy one. 15000 sq/ft house for 80k...well, that will be tuff, $53.33 per sq/ft. They say the average is $115 per sq/ft of home for a basic house. But I am sure it can be done. If you want energy efficient, spend the majority of your money on your building envelope. things like light fixture, flooring, cabinets, etc... can be upgraded at a later date when you have the money for it. Cost will be different for you, than they are for me, so you need to speak with contractors to get ideas of what things will cost. Compare using closed cell spray foam to other methods of insulation. It is about an R7 per inch, and seals against air leaks as well. So in a 2x4 wall, you will have an R value of 24.5. Add 1 inch of xps foam to the outside, that has an R of 5, and you have a 29.5 R value wall. Closed cell spray foam runs about $4 per sq/ft of 2x4 wall here. 2x4's are a little less expensive than 2x6's, and much less than going with something like ICF's. 2x4's will give you a few more sq/ft of interior space. Closed cell foam also adds to the strength of your walls. if you do not mind vinyl windows, I would go with something like the American Craftsman sold at Home Depot. They are reasonably priced and are pretty good windows. They make the vinyl for Anderson Windows. But they are about half the price of an Anderson or Pella window. Go with a non-vented attic. Insulation, spray foam is best, is put right against the underside of the roof deck. This makes the attic part of your conditioned air. This does not increase the roof temp by more than a couple of degrees, like some will have you believe, and you do not have that hot attic air working it's way back down in to your house. When you do this, the roof should have a layer of water and ice shield on the whole roof though, instead of roofing paper. The reason for this, is to give you a extra layer of protection if your shingles were to fail. With the insulation right against the roof deck, leaks can take a lot longer to show up. Use a light colored shingle, or roof coating, to reflect the heat back away from the house. The HVAC contractor needs to run a manual J to size your a/c and heat properly. . Systems to small or to big can cost you more money. Radiate floor heating can make a house feel more comfortable at a lower temp, but you will not have that many heating days, and a central air system needs the blower to circulate the air, so you might as will just used forced heat and air. All that stuff about turning back the thermostat at night, and up during the day, doesn't really work in my experience and opinion, your best to only change it be a degree or to, or just leave it at the same temp all the time. Try to use standard sized products in your house build. Example windows, a stock window is much less than a custom ordered one. try to keep your dimensions divisible by 4, there is less waste of product, so you are buying a few sheets less of plywood and such. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 2:50 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I'm looking to build a 1500 sq foot 1 story house. Here's some information about a house I'm currently in. It is about 1280 sq feet. It has standard 2x4 walls with fiberglass bats. The windows are single panes in aluminum frames. The doors are insulated metal. The attic has standard bats, but on top of this, there is blown insulation. I think it's about r38 in total. I keep the ac at 78 during the day, 75 during the night. In the dead of summer, my bill is between $150 and $160. My goal in building a house is to decrease the amount I pay for electricity by a decent amount. The last thing I want is to have to pay $200 to cool a house. In doing research, I've seen people say they have big houses and are paying about what I pay. One article I remember seeing indicated that the writer paid about $168 in the middle of summer for a 3400 sq foot, 2 story house. According to the writer, it is all electric. His wife likes to cook. The kicker is that he keeps his ac at 75 day and night. It is noteworthy to mention he built with icf. If I could build a 1500 sq foot house and have a bill at about $80, or even $100 in the middle of summer, that would be great. It is my opinion that I'd be a fool to not do everything I could to save energy within reason. Shane
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Electric water heater
Thanks for the tips and help with the electric water heater. I am glad it was mentioned that the wires are live in there. I would have assumed they would keep the live wires away from any type of adjustments that need to be made. I turned off the breaker. I didn't locate any way to adjust the temp though. Found a reset button, but that is it. I might have to get some eyes to take a look at it for me. Thanks, Michael [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Electric water heater
Okay, my new house has an electric water heater. How do you turn the temp down. The water is extremely hot. I do not find any adjustment like on a gas/lp water heater. There are two panels, one at the top, and one at the bottom of the tank that have 2 screws holding them on. Is the temp adjustment under one or both of those. First time ever having an electric water heater. Michael
RE: [BlindHandyMan] building question
Shane, Spray foam can be very expensive, there is closed cell and open cell foam. Open cell spray foam is about R3.6 and closed cell is about R7. Of course, the R value doesn't tell the hole story, spray foam is superior at blocking air leaks in to the house. But with spray foam, you will still have the thermal bridging at the studs. Wood is not a very good insulator, about R1 per inch, so your over all R value for the wall is decreased due to using studs. In my area, Nebraska, open cell goes for about $1.90 per sq/ft of 2x6 wall, and closed is about $5.25 per sq/ft of 2x6 wall. Check with some ICF manufacturers, some have prices right on their website, and some have a contractor locater. One manufacturer, I think it is Poly Steel even has a owner builder program, they help you get financing and all that good stuff. _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 10:58 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question Here's the short version. Energy efficiency. I've heard that a house built in this way can save an average of 50% on electric bills. I want an energy efficient home so that's why I'm looking at icf. I'm also looking at conventional construction with blow in insulation, preferably foam. Everything I've heard though suggests icf as being the way to go. Oh, did I mention icf homes can take 200+ mph winds? I do happen to live in a hurricane zone. Shane Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question I am curious to know why you want to use this sort of construction. The system works well for basement construction where much of the foam is well protected in the ground and you can form a good seal between the top and the floor decking but once you need to mount windows into it and seal a roof structure things begin to get more complicated. Nothing cannot be overcome of course and this is a similar problem with the insulated panel style of construction as well. There is a lot of construction that goes on, you need very good scaffold to carry workmen and pressurized cement hoses, they must be fastidious about filling all of the voids in the foam forms and a lot of work goes into installing all that rebar, wiring the joints, spacing it away from the edges and so on. There needs to be structure for installing windows and doors and it needs to be precise and not move during pouring. finally, how ever you choose to cover the building you are into screwing some sort of strapping into the plastic foam retainers. This is one thing on the inside of a basement wall but something very different on an exterior wall, not impossible of course but additional complication. I imagine it would be difficult to modify such a structure as well, put on an addition or alter a window. The system does allow pretty good insulation though. Again I am curious as to what interests you in that sort of construction. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 2:59 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question I don't know of anyone in this area who has built a house like this. Shane - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 11:16 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question Shane, do you know of others in your area who have built such a house? Perhaps a call to those who wil mix and deliver your concrete would be a good idea, for instance of how much weight is involved with each wall and might they suggestet a thicker or wider footing and how to tie the walls in with the footings. a well planned project such as this, as you know will come out better. Good luck., oh, I forgot . where are you building this house? Lee On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 09:40:27PM -0500, Shane Hecker wrote: Has anyone built a concrete house using the insulated concrete forms? If so, how did it go? Is it what you expected as far as energy savings? Are there any problems to watch out for? I'm asking because I'm considering building a house in this way. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Shane -- Historical Slumming: The act of visiting locations such as diners, smokestack industrial sites, rural villages -- locations where time appears to have been frozen many years back -- so as to experience relief when one returns back to the present. -- Douglas Coupland, Generation X: Tales for an Accelerated Culture . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Tankless Water Heater
Gas or LP models save more then electric models, anytime you use electric for resistance heating, it costs a fortune. Figure out what size you will need, then price it out. Tankless do not heat the water to a set temp, i.e. 120 degrees F, it increases the water temp by a certain amount, i.e. increases by 60 degrees at 4.5 gpm, so if your income water is colder in the winter, your hot water will be colder. It is hard to know if you will save. If you have a teenage daughter, or a wife, that gets out when the hot water runs out, their shower time can really increase, using more hot water, and more water in general. Michael From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Hodges Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 3:42 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tankless Water Heater My water heater is about to quit on me after about fifteen years of service and I'm considering converting to a tankless water heater. I am considering going to tankless because I've heard there could be considerable savings in the long run. Does anyone on here have any experience with tankless water heaters or would anyone have a recommendation for a particular brand. On the other hand, would anyone recommend that I not go this route, and stick with the tank heater, due to a bad experience with the tankless type. Any help on this subject would be appreciated. Regards, Tom Hodges [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] another building question
ICF is what I will use when i build a house, unless something better comes out by then. It cost about 20-25 percent more to build with ICF over 2x6 framing, but the lower utility bills, and the lower cost for using a smaller heating and air conditioning system that is needed should more than make up for the difference. This was a few years ago when i spoke to a contractor, your area might be different. Most ICF manufacturers will sell directly to you, so you can do it yourself, if you want. Unless your going to have strange angles, it won't take long to put the forms up. You will need lots of help when it comes time to pore the concrete in the forms though Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 9:21 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] another building question I'm still doing research into the different methods of building a house. Anyone here have an icf house? Icf stands for insulated concrete form. If so, what do you like or not like about it? Also, how much did it cost to build? When it was built, did you put up the forms yourself or have someone do it? Any info is appreciated. Thanks. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] two prong to a three prong plug
Install GFCI's. Or run new wire with a ground 14-2 or 12-2. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Doucet Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 5:03 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] two prong to a three prong plug Hi, My brother's house has electric outlets through out his house with only two wholes. No ground on any plug. What is involved to put all new three whole plugs in with the ground? Surely it is not as simple as just replacing the old two whole plugs with the new three whole plugs, right? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] It never ends
probably not, but that is the goal. i am going to kind of cheat though. I will hire contractors for finishing the drywall, plumbing, and tiling. I am also going to use 12 foot sheets of drywall, so that should go faster hanging it. Less seems should mean that it won't take the drywall finisher as long to do his, or her, job. And if I go with the Icynene foam insulation, that will be done by a pro as well, but not sure the extra $1,000.00 over fiberglass will be worth it. I hate hanging doors. I have had the fiber board frames brake on me when hanging them, and that does not make me very happy. Of course people can't seem to get stuff figured out, so we have not even closed on the house yet. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 9:27 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] It never ends DUDE! You are my hero. You are going to get all of that done in the next month? Hell, it just took me two solid days to get a freakin door installed. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew. mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Garage door opener
I think someone was looking for a universal garage door opener on here. http://www.smarthome.com/7189/Compact-2-Button-Universal-Garage-Remote/p.asp x If it wasn't this list, well oops. Michael Baldwin Got print, need Braille? http://www.ReadWithDots.com
[BlindHandyMan] It never ends
Well, I am pretty much finished up with my projects, and now we have to move to a new house, well it isn't new, and the projects are going to start all over again. The house we are moving to was built in 1914, and did not originally have a bathroom, or electricity. Oh and it is built from concrete block, and plaster on the inside. I will have my work cut out for me. They did add an addition to the house in 1988, but the quality was not very high. They put paneling right over the studs, and I thought that practice was stopped in the 70's. So my first order of business will be fixing up the addition. I will be gutting the addition, and adding outlets, cable and phone jacks, insulation, and drywalling it all, might add a few more windows to, it is even dark for me, but most of that might be because of the dark paneling. From what we can tell, the joists and studs were all done right, so the framing shouldn't be a problem. I will also be adding a main floor laundry, well it will be part of the bathroom which has carpet. I can not stand carpet in a bathroom. And my wife wants all this done before she starts teaching again on August 14th, and we haven't even closed on the house yet. So here is kind of a run down with what I will be doing. I will try to write updates, but I don't seem to do that well. I think it has been about a year and a half sense my last update for my current basement remodel. Rip out all paneling, Remove all fixtures and cabinets from the bathroom, Move the bathroom door, and make it a 32 inch door instead of a 30, Reconfigure the bedroom closets, Rip out any out of date, or undersized wiring, and for me undersized is less than 12 gage, 12 doesn't cost much more than 14, and my father-in-law hates helping with 12 cause it is to stiff, Replace old windows, and add more if I decide to, Add 1/2 or 3/4 plywood on floor to cover up the OSB, and stiffen the floor, Run wires for lights, outlets, phone, cable, and smoke detectors, Add heat duct to bedroom that does not have one, Insulate, I am considering spray foam, I will get R 21 and a better seal against air leaks, and I don't have to fer out the 2x4 walls to 2x6, Plumb the bathroom, Hang drywall, The drywall finishing, I will probably have done by a contractor. My father-in-law did a crappy job on the last stuff he did for us, and it takes me to long to get it exactly how I want it. The floor in the bedrooms and hall will get 3/4 prefinished oak flooring, and the bathroom will get tile. There might be a few things I left off my list, but at least you will know what one of the BHM members is up to. Feel free to comment, ignore, question, suggest, etc... Michael
[BlindHandyMan] Robotic mowers
Hi, I would like to hear from those that have a robotic mower. I am interested in what brand and model, and your general thoughts and opinions about it. Thinking of getting one for my new house. The wife mower just doesn't seem to be working well these days. Thanks, Michael Baldwin Got print, need Braille? http://www.ReadWithDots.com
RE: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing question
Kind of depends on the level of your main that your going to connect to. You want your slope from the drain to the main to be 1/4 inch per every foot of pipe. It can be more, but not less. Going under concrete, your drain needs to be 2 inch diameter, and they don't make 2 inch bathtub drains, so you will need to do some figuring to go from the 1 1/2 inch tub/shower drain to a 2 inch P trap. All of that takes up space. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2009 9:41 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing question I've got a bathroom which has a sink and toilet. We're ading a shower and tub unit. What are the steps to install the drainage? The building is on a concrete slab, so I know concrete wil need to be broken up. How deep in the concrete does the p-trap need to be? Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shingling the house
Nothing. Line your first row up with the edge of the roof, then the second row line the bottom up with the crotch on the row below it. The second row should be offset from the first about 1/3 the length of the shingle, there is a little notch on the top that will help with this. Put nails in each end, then one about each crotch, about 3/4 to 1 inch above the crotch so it ends up in the tar strip. 4 nails per shingle is best in my opinion. no nails should be showing when done. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ralph Supernaw Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 11:02 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shingling the house Hi, When shingling a roof, What do you use as a jig to line up the shingles across the roof? Thanks, Ralph [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers
The one in our van can be programmed for any garage door opener. I can program up to 4 different ones, including the ones that change frequency for security reasons. So, if this is available in a van, they might make a universal portable one. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 6:57 AM To: Blind Handyman Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers Is there such a thing as a remote garage door opener ? I am asking for a FRiend who recently installed a new garage door lock by the way which is all plastic but it works. Her antenna inside the garage seems fine but neither the old garage door opener or the new one to include the one in the car works. failure to comply is what I think. she has programmed the remote to the specs. any ideas will be appreciated. thanks. Lee -- T-shirt of the Week: I'm not excited, I'm cold! . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers
It is by U-connect, or something like that. i don't know if they do portable ones, or if they just do in car ones for Chrysler. But I think we have to have a working portable one to program it, so it might not be exactly what your looking for. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 1:10 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers Michael. do you know of the brand that you have in the van? thanks.Lee On Wed, Jul 08, 2009 at 12:58:48PM -0500, Michael baldwin wrote: The one in our van can be programmed for any garage door opener. I can program up to 4 different ones, including the ones that change frequency for security reasons. So, if this is available in a van, they might make a universal portable one. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 6:57 AM To: Blind Handyman Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers Is there such a thing as a remote garage door opener ? I am asking for a FRiend who recently installed a new garage door lock by the way which is all plastic but it works. Her antenna inside the garage seems fine but neither the old garage door opener or the new one to include the one in the car works. failure to comply is what I think. she has programmed the remote to the specs. any ideas will be appreciated. thanks. Lee -- T-shirt of the Week: I'm not excited, I'm cold! . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- T-shirt of the Week: I'm not excited, I'm cold! . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers
Only the garages that have been programmed into the system. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rob Monitor Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 3:15 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers OH BOY, now the thieves can still a Chrysler and brake in to all kinds of garages.. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 2:15 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers It is by U-connect, or something like that. i don't know if they do portable ones, or if they just do in car ones for Chrysler. But I think we have to have a working portable one to program it, so it might not be exactly what your looking for. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 1:10 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers Michael. do you know of the brand that you have in the van? thanks.Lee On Wed, Jul 08, 2009 at 12:58:48PM -0500, Michael baldwin wrote: The one in our van can be programmed for any garage door opener. I can program up to 4 different ones, including the ones that change frequency for security reasons. So, if this is available in a van, they might make a universal portable one. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 6:57 AM To: Blind Handyman Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question about remote garage door openers Is there such a thing as a remote garage door opener ? I am asking for a FRiend who recently installed a new garage door lock by the way which is all plastic but it works. Her antenna inside the garage seems fine but neither the old garage door opener or the new one to include the one in the car works. failure to comply is what I think. she has programmed the remote to the specs. any ideas will be appreciated. thanks. Lee -- T-shirt of the Week: I'm not excited, I'm cold! . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- T-shirt of the Week: I'm not excited, I'm cold! . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] need help with bathroom wall tiles.
I just finished tiling a 5 by 4 foot shower, it is a lot of work to tile, but it can be done by a blind person with good results. The 4 inch wall tile already has spacers built in, so no spacers are needed. I believe the 6 inch wall tile has the spacers on the tile as well, you end up with a 1/16 inch gap, which you use unsanded grout on. Removing grout is a pain to do, You can get a grout removal bit for a Dremmal tool, that is suppose to make it easier, but I have never used it. If you have loose tile, it is possible the backing is rotting away. So if that is the case, in my opinion, you are best to completely redo the tile. Do NOT use drywall for a tile backing unless you use a product like Kerdi over it. Use 1/2 inch Durock concrete backer board, it comes in 3 by 5 sheets, and there are special screws to use, you can use roofing nails, but IMO screws are better. IMO again, do not used premixed grout or thinset, it does not hold up as well as the dry stuff you mix yourself. After the grout is in, and cleaned, you need to wait 48-72 hours then apply a grout sealer. So, if you decide to redo it, just get a big hammer and start smashing the tile and wall, tare down to the studs and start over, be careful of the plumbing. Even if you pay someone, doing the demo yourself will save you some money, and you will know what your getting into before a contractor shows up. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Victor Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 8:06 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] need help with bathroom wall tiles. Hi Angel, It is possible to do it yourself, however, depending on how the sub-straight is, you may need to get professional help with it. All of this is depending on how comfortable you are with yourself and your work. First you have to pry off the old tiles, then take a scraper to the old grout, trying to keep the underlayment as intact as possible. Once this is done, you need to feel around the underlayment to see if the wall has any water damage. This would look like soft wall plaster, or worse, the wall may have chunks missing out of it from where the wall has been eaten away by the water. If the underlayment is ok, then all you need to get is a notched mini-trowel, and some ready mixed thin set. Scrape on the thin set, then place the tiles onto the walls, using spacers between the tiles to keep them in line. You can get the spacers when you buy the ready mixed thin set. Let the tiles set for 24 to 36 hours, then you can get some ready mixed grout, or mix the grout yourself, using a coloured grout similar to the tiles, however, if you're a total, you may have problems coordinating the colours, so you may have to get sighted assistance. Once you are ready for the grouting, using a padded trowel to plaster on the grout, making sure to evenly distribute the grout around all the tiles. Once done, let it set for about 20 minutes, then using a damp sponge, sponge off the thin film coating the tiles. Once you've sponged off the grout film from the tiles, let it set for 24 hours before you use the shower again. If the tiles are along the tub's rim, you may have to caulk the bathtub again, in which case, you'll want to fill the tub with water, then caulk the rim of the tub where the new tiles are. If the wall has water damage, you may want to cut around where you took off the old tiles, removing all of the water damaged drywall, go to Home Depot or Lowe's and look for the reject pile, which are pieces of wood and drywall that were trimmed off of larger pieces, and you will be able to buy enough to cover what you need, instead of buying an entire sheet of 8 by five feet, which you won't end up using. In any case, cut out the desired piece that you need, and nail or screw in the drywall to the wood studs in the wall. If the drywall happens to be around the fixtures, you may have to cut out the holds for the fixtures, so you'll have to measure where the holes will go. Once you've done this, you may elect to use poly-fil or plaster on the seems and screws/nail heads, or you can just leave them, and use the notched trowel to fill in the seams and heads, and just place the tiles over the areas. This should be it, and I don't think I'm forgetting anything. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm forgetting anything. Victor Co-moderator Blind Movie Buffs List Guidedogs List [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Double hung windows
I have no experience with Milgard windows, but I have heard they are very good. 36-38 inches is not to wide for a double hung window, as long as it is taller than that. if it is less then the width high, than a slider would look better. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 8:39 PM To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Double hung windows Aloha everyone, My friend is having some remodeling done. She is wondering if anyone has any opinion or experience with Milgard Windows. She would also like to know if there is a recommended width for double-hung windows. The question is being raised because of the following. The contractor came to measure her existing windows which are the jalousie type. Most of her windows are 36 or 35 inches wide, but the one in her dining room is 38 inches wide. The contractor told her that the one in the dining room is too wide and that she has to have a single-hung window there. Thoughts? TIA, Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] flue (not the swine one) problem
I would check to see what is aloud by code in your area. I believe only rigid metal ducting is allowed. you can get stainless steal flex gas line though, and that might help you move your water heater enough to connect the flue. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:33 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] flue (not the swine one) problem Wouldn't that metal drier venting stuff work this this? On Mon, 4 May 2009, Shane Hecker wrote: Just recently installed a new gas water heater. I've got a flue going up through the roof. Problem is it doesn't line up with the water heater. The old water heater had no problems lining up because of an angled piece, but this new heater is about 5 inches bigger around. And it can't be moved or it would cause a problem with the gas valve. Also, the heater is on a stand which brings it 18 inches off the floor. Right now, we have a piece of the flue bracing the other pieces so they line up. Is there any flexible materials you can use for a flue? If not, any suggestions would be helpful as I really don't want to have that brace there forever. Thanks. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] electrical color and orientation
Strange the water heater needed a 10-3. I haven't seen one that uses 120 v, so it should have only needed a 10-2. But hey, lots of stuff changes so fast it is hard to keep up with it. I guess it is possible that the water heater needed 2 240 v lines, one for each heating element, that would explain the 4 colors, white, red, blue, and black. But the only color safe is green, according to wiring code, green color, or bare wire is always to be the ground, green can not be used for anything else, well and white, it is to always be neutral, that is why when it is made hot, it is to be marked black. Of course, if you didn't do the wiring, you don't know if the person before did what they are supposed to Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 10:14 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical color and orientation No, first the sears water heater was wired with white,red, blue, and black when I took the line from the breaker it was a 10/3 white, red and black no one could tell me how to hook it up. even the sears manual or support could not tell me. I had to get an electrician in to figure it out and hook it up. Years later when weremodeled the bathroom the electrician used 12/4 with ground, which had the blue wire. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy bobke...@bellsouth. mailto:bobken54%40bellsouth.net net To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical color and orientation I'm betting the blue was actually green in which case that would be the wire for a 3 way switch. But if he ran 12 gauge to a water heater you're lucky it didn't start a fire. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 11:40 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical color and orientation What is the blue. Before I switched to gas hot water the old electric unit had white, red, black, blue and ground. About ten years ago I had an electrician run some gfci lines in the bathroom. at one point he used a a 12/4 with ground. This 12/4 had the white,red,black and blue wires. I don't remember if he used the blue for the hot that was gfci protected or the blue for the hot that was not gfci. - Original Message - From: Michael Baldwin mbald...@cableone. mailto:mbaldwin%40cableone.net net To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electrical color and orientation In AC, normally it is the black that is hot, when your talking about 120 v, with 240 v, it is normally the black and red, if it is three wire, or both black and white are hot if it is just 2 wire 240 v. When the white is made hot, it is suppose to be marked with a piece of black electrical tape. use to be able to use a black marker but that can ware off over time. _ Michael From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 8:36 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical color and orientation Ron, Tom, bob, Dale: I guess my mind is going. I've forgotten two importantthings. One, which color in alternating current wiring is hot? Secondly, when doing an I.E.C. cable, which is hot? Sorry to be so dense. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_ position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/ users.com
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Drywall Screw Threads
Fine threads go in to steel framing members, and the course is for wood, but the fine thread work well on the wood to. At least that is what a drywaller person told me. I just buy a box of 1 and 1/4th for 1/2 drywall, of what ever is less expensive. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gil Laster Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 8:09 PM To: Blind Handyman Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Drywall Screw Threads Over years I have collected different sizes of drywall screws and just now noticed that most have coarse threads while a few have fine threads including screws of the same style, material, and length. Can anyone explain the purpose or application for coarse threads verses fine threads? - Gil Laster, Charlotte, NC [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] electrical color and orientation
In AC, normally it is the black that is hot, when your talking about 120 v, with 240 v, it is normally the black and red, if it is three wire, or both black and white are hot if it is just 2 wire 240 v. When the white is made hot, it is suppose to be marked with a piece of black electrical tape. use to be able to use a black marker but that can ware off over time. _ Michael From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 8:36 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical color and orientation Ron, Tom, bob, Dale: I guess my mind is going. I've forgotten two importantthings. One, which color in alternating current wiring is hot? Secondly, when doing an I.E.C. cable, which is hot? Sorry to be so dense. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] i.e.c. connections
i am not sure, but my guess is that it would be like an outlet. With the holes facing you, and the center hole down, the left would be neutral, center would be ground, and right would be hot. With the prongs facing you, the left would be hot, center ground, and the right neutral, again with the center prong down. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 3:47 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] i.e.c. connections Hi, The only thing remaining for my current repairs is to find out which polarity goes to which part of an i.e.c. connector. That's the kind that plug into the back of a computer, audio amplifier, or various power supplies. It's a 6 sided plug, rectangular in nature with one side being bowed and made of angled corners. Anyone know? Thanks [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] running the compressor or emergency heat, that is the question
Not even sure why your heat pump is turning on when it is that cold. Unless things have changed with them, they are about useless under 30 degrees F or so. Some have a way of setting the temperature at which it doesn't run. It is usually located on the heat pump unit itself, some it is a switch, and others it is a jumper type thing. You might need to contact a HVAC contractor in your area that is familiar with your brand, and see what they would charge to adjust it. My guess is at 14 degrees F, it is running in defrost mode more then it is in heat mode, so your wasting juice by having it run. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Howell Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 4:19 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] running the compressor or emergency heat, that is the question Folks, as it is 14 degrees outside this morning, I have been wondering about something. I am stuck with a heatpump at least for a while, so getting rid of the unit of course would solve my problem but since that is not an option, let me ask a question. When it gets this cold outside, the compressor outside will still run and one of the emergency or backup heat strips generally will come on to supplement the heat that doesn't exist. These heater strips are typically 5Kw and 10Kw. The system will use first the 5Kw and the 10Kw as necessary, which means a total of 15Kw if you kick on the emergency heat. THe only advantage of the emergency heat is the compressor is not running and you get heat that is around 120 degrees or maybe a little less. So, I am wondering on days when the temperature is so cold that the heatpump can't really extract warmth from the outside air, would it make sense to switch to the emergency heat? Would this save me any money? I imagine it will come down to how much electricity is being used and that may be the simple answer, but I am curious if anyone has explored this question and has any thoughts? Thanks, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills
Max, I live in a small house, and I have two small children, so a toy that was not there on one pass, might be in the way on the next. I wouldn't be able to walk briskly enough to get my heart rate up. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Max Robinson Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 9:29 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills I found that when I walked on a treadmill I didn't walk exactly straight because I couldn't see and the belt would move off to one side and grind against the frame until the edge started to fray and eventually started tearing. I ruined two treadmills this way. Doctors say that just plane walking is almost as effective as walking on a treadmill so I do my walking in the house. I walk around the living room, down the hall, into the bathroom, turn around, walk back up the hall and around the living room again. I do that for an hour each day. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace. mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com com Transistor site http://www.funwitht http://www.funwithtransistors.net ransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwitht http://www.funwithtubes.net ubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusi http://www.maxsmusicplace.com cplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes- mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Michael Baldwin mbald...@cableone. mailto:mbaldwin%40cableone.net net To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 9:02 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills Okay, those that own, or have owned a treadmill. Got a recommendation for a brand and model? Do you use a special pad under the treadmill to help with vibrations throughout the house, and to protect the floor? Doctor is telling me I need to get rid of some of this extra stored up beer, and a treadmill is a way I can consistently work on that. Thanks, Michael Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_ position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/ users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] treadmills
Okay, those that own, or have owned a treadmill. Got a recommendation for a brand and model? Do you use a special pad under the treadmill to help with vibrations throughout the house, and to protect the floor? Doctor is telling me I need to get rid of some of this extra stored up beer, and a treadmill is a way I can consistently work on that. Thanks, Michael
[BlindHandyMan] Laundry room cabinets
Hi, I am planning out my cabinets for my laundry room. Was looking for ideas of what people wished they had in their laundry room. I will have a single bowl sink for soaking clothes and such. Michael
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Recommendations for Kitchen Floor?
The cheapest is probably the peal and stick vinyl tile. Real easy to put down. I have seen it for $0.19 per square foot. You can use vinyl tile glue and it will last longer. Simple to put down, and simple to maintain. You can find that snap together flooring pretty cheap as well, but I don't think it belongs in a kitchen, or any wet area, but that is my opinion. Some have had good luck with it. Pretty easy to put down. There are several other options, but these should get you started. Michael From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Claudia Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 8:02 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Recommendations for Kitchen Floor? Hi, We need some recommendations for a new kitchen floor here. We have some kind of tile floor here, feels like vinyl, but it's all coming up now. We really don't know what to put in that'd be low maintenance and not over the top, as far as expense goes. Thanks. Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. our-safe-haven- mailto:our-safe-haven-subscribe%40googlegroups.com subscr...@googlegroups.com makinghouseworkeasi mailto:makinghouseworkeasier-subscribe%40googlegroups.com er-subscr...@googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Laundry room cabinets
bob, I want to put the washer and dryer up, but my wife is short, and she does not want me to. She is 4 10 and 1/2 and I am about 6 foot, and I do most of the laundry, so I should get it my way, but... Didn't think of a hanging bar or something. I wonder if someone makes a retractable clothes line. I can hide it in the cabinet, then stretch it out and connect it to a hook on the other side. Thanks, Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of chiliblindman Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 7:44 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Laundry room cabinets Storage space below the washer and dryer to elevate them higher to use. The space will be used for many storage needs. A table for folding cloth and a rail above for hanging cloth on hangers. ..bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Laundry room cabinets
Steve, I will have a sink, but it won't be free standing, just not enough room for that. My laundry room and bathroom are together in this one room. Not sure how deep of a sink I can get, but I will get one of those faucets that is up pretty high for filling pots and mop buckets. Didn't think of using wire shelving, not sure why not, I am planning on using it in a pantry Thanks, Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Crews Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 7:53 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Laundry room cabinets Michael, I redid my wife's laundry room a few years ago. We put in a free standing plastic mop sink, which she really likes. It is deep enough that you can get a mop bucket or five gallon bucket in it for easy filling, and is also fairly inexpensive. We also put in a five foot counter top with shelves underneath, and five foot of upper kitchen cabinets above the counter and another five foot of cabinets above the washer and dryer. I have also redone Laundry roomsand used wire shelving which works out very well and is a lot less expensive than cabinets. Steve _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 7:18 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Laundry room cabinets Hi, I am planning out my cabinets for my laundry room. Was looking for ideas of what people wished they had in their laundry room. I will have a single bowl sink for soaking clothes and such. Michael [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Recommendations for Kitchen Floor?
Important to make sure there is not to much bounce in the floor either, or the tiles will crack and brake, and look like crap in a short time. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of RJ Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 10:22 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Recommendations for Kitchen Floor? I like a good porcelain tile. If you can do the work yourself and do a little price shopping the price isn't bad. But it is important to lay cement board or the new fiber board down first. If you go that route, be sure to get class 4 or 5 in the tile. RJ - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 9:02 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Recommendations for Kitchen Floor? Hi, We need some recommendations for a new kitchen floor here. We have some kind of tile floor here, feels like vinyl, but it's all coming up now. We really don't know what to put in that'd be low maintenance and not over the top, as far as expense goes. Thanks. Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. our-safe-haven- mailto:our-safe-haven-subscribe%40googlegroups.com subscr...@googlegroups.com makinghouseworkeasi mailto:makinghouseworkeasier-subscribe%40googlegroups.com er-subscr...@googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Laundry room cabinets
I might get her talked in to it yet, but a foot is about what I was thinking. Those stands you can buy to match the washer and dryer are a bit pricy I think. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of chiliblindman Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 10:24 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Laundry room cabinets Just one foot will make a difference for both of you unless you have a top load washer. ..bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Recommendations for Kitchen Floor?
Porcelain is colored all the way through, so scratches and such are not as noticeable, as on ceramic. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of RJ Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 10:26 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Recommendations for Kitchen Floor? Not Scot, but a good quality class 5 can take a lot of punishment and the porcelain tile as a higher glaze to it. RJ - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 7:52 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Recommendations for Kitchen Floor? Scott, Will it do anything to the tile, if you drop glassware on it? And, how does it clean up? Are there perferations or holes in the tile, where dirt and grime can get through, thus making it more difficult to clean? Thanks. Claudia - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 5:14 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Recommendations for Kitchen Floor? Ceramic tile. You get a good ceramic tile and it wears incredibly well and yes it is more work to install, but we love our floor. Ah, just don't drop anything on it. If you drop a glass, it is toast cause that tile is mighty hard stuff. Scott Howell s.how...@verizon. mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net net On Jan 19, 2009, at 9:02 PM, Claudia wrote: Hi, We need some recommendations for a new kitchen floor here. We have some kind of tile floor here, feels like vinyl, but it's all coming up now. We really don't know what to put in that'd be low maintenance and not over the top, as far as expense goes. Thanks. Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. our-safe-haven- mailto:our-safe-haven-subscribe%40googlegroups.com subscr...@googlegroups.com makinghouseworkeasi mailto:makinghouseworkeasier-subscribe%40googlegroups.com er-subscr...@googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!
Dale, Is this similar to the system you are talking about for a corner cabinet? http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11088 Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:02 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie! Not sure I can remember fully, seems to me though that there would only really be room for two trays, maybe three, there really isn't room for more than that in the average lower cabinet. The edges of the baskets are about 4 maybe 5 inches high but are probably better suited for canned goods or dry goods than for pots and pans. They did have a rather clever pantry system though, like a huge tall drawer, probably 6 feet high with several basket like trays. when you pull it out you can access the trays from both sides. I was impressed with the accessibility of the trays, easy to locate things. Could be used for about anything, the basket style would be good for keeping things clean, stuff not collecting in the bottoms. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:09 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie! Aloha Dale, If I am imagining this right, I think I'd like it better than a lazy-susan. Are you able to tell me approximately what size the baskets are, how many, and do you think I could put pots and pans in them? One of the prices we pay for living in Hawaii is that many things are not available to touch on the outer islands. I may need to go to Honolulu to see some of these items, so I'm making a list. I'll put this basket item on my list. Betsy At 03:57 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote: As an alternative, I saw some rather interesting hardware at Lee Valley a couple of summers ago, probably it is also available from other cabinet stores. It is a series of baskets attached to the door in the corner which, when opened pull another series of basket like trays into view from under the corner. Just thought I would mention this as an alternative. Some of the better Lazy Susans have a sheet of hardboard bent around the inside very close to the trays of the carousel which is pretty good at keeping things from falling off. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But...
See if you can find a Lindhaus dealer and try one of those out. They are pretty quiet as far as vacuums go. They use a bag, but I like bag over bagless anyways, a lot less messy. Michael -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andrew J. LaPointe Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 10:00 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But... Hi, just read your post here. I had 2 electro luxes, an orrac, a kirby and now a dyson. If you ever have a chance to try out a dyson, do so. I think you will be pretty impressed. There is no smell and as a bagless vac, you can't go wrong. Also, the beater bar is great. The customer service is the best that I have ever worked with. They know everything about their product and have the best attitude toward the customer. Andy -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 1:22 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But... claudia, I know you have a household to run and a child. I definitely understand the need for speed. But if you can, sometimes take your time to go slowly with the Oreck. I find that slow even changes the feel of the carpet back to a nice fluffier state. Almost that of the Electrolux. And, for hardly any money that canister side kick is nice. It, haha uses electrolux bags; I swap them. I don't really like the blet mechanism of the Oreck. I'd rather a gear drive with a slip, and an switch for neutral. The smell of burning belts when it eats a sock is nasty. heehee BTW stick with the oreck bags, they are a tighter weave than the off brand which breathe too much and start to stink (dog hair and dander) before they are filled. Then ya have to change the bag and wash the cloth outer bag. Oh and lastly, watch out for fibers or strings getting between the roller and the housing underneath. It will start to make a higher pitched sound, and then start to smell of belt as if you ate a sock. But no sock. Taking off the roller and unwrapping strings or carpet fibers is the only answer. P.I.A. if you ask me. On Fri, 9 Jan 2009, Claudia wrote: Thanks Spiro, I appreciate that. You would think that, as much as we pay for these vacuums, they could make them a little less noisy? I have the Oreck Cannister vac too, and I used to hate those things, but it also picks up quite well; just can't get the job done as fast. I'm off to take my tired self to sleep, in a few minutes, as I have to work in the morning! Claudia - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 11:46 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But... what's extreme about headphones that let in all but the first 80db of sound? Heehee You're a very sweet woman and I'm sure yur ears are precious to more than just the general me. On Thu, 8 Jan 2009, Claudia wrote: Okay Spiro, I think not. LOL! That sounds like I'd be taking things way to the extreme, so I'll just deal with the noise, I suppose, but I won't like it! Chuckle! Claudia - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 10:21 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Love My Oreck But... do you have a shooting shop near you? Yeah, I mean a gun shop. I suggest that you go in, and ask for the cheapest shooting headphones you can get. I don't find the Oreck louder than all, a bit louder than the ElectroLux. But when I'm running my router, i am happy happy happy to have an extra set of *noise *cancelling *ear *protection! I can't run the router for more than 5 mins without wanting to jump out of my skin. I do audio for a living. Also when i was into shooting sports, nothing bigger than a .32 or it would shorten the fun. I think that *that will do you better than ear plugs. There are even expensive Noise Cancelling Cans that allow a great bit of sound through. but they are cancelling rapid rise audio like a sudden sound level rise (as ehn you fire a gun) and will eventually flatten out on a vac; which may bring through more than you want and spend more than you want on it. Being blind, you'll have to do the vacuuming with no one around as it will mess with your spacial a tiny bit and your startle component will go way up. The cheapest might do you quite well. The other answer would be cancellation headphones like used in mix down studios; (where they have to study sounds) which block out a great bit of outside sound. But the shooting headphones do well limit noise and let some through, where as the studio related ones will block all outside sound and raise yourstartle factor even more. Best
RE: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting
I vote for flooring first, then the cabinets. if the kitchen is a square or rectangle, it will be easier to install. there will be less cuts to make to fit around the cabinets. Some installers charge more if they have to make more cuts, so it could cost more, just depends on the installer. if your using a sheet vinyl instead of a vinyl tile, the sheet vinyl comes in roles that are 10-12 feet wide, do not recall exactly. But it is possible you will be buying the same amount of flooring whether it goes under the cabinets or not. So you might as well use it all. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of GLENN PERMAR Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:55 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting Hi Betsy, We have just finished a complete kitchen remodel project. There are several things I have read on all the messages on this subject that I will comment on. First, about the lazy susan. With the lazy susan you have the problem of things falling off behind the circular shelves as well as the wasted space in all the corners. We opted to go with the two piece corner doors that make a 90 degree fold in the corners. This way you don't have the corner post in the way and there is much better access to the bigger corner cabinets. Also if you go with the cabinets at the top that make a 45 degree turn in the corners you add a lot more storage space. About the flooring, it really depends on what kind of flooring you are installing. We put in bamboo flooring which is too expensive to hide under cabinets. Our contractor was going to put in the flooring first but I didn't want that because of the wasted flooring under the cabinets and then if you ever wanted to replace the flooring it would be a hell of a job to either cut it around the bottom of the cabinets or get it out from under them. He raised the cabinets by putting down boards where the cabinets would sit that were the same thickness as the flooring so all the measurements would come out right. We did install the flooring under the stove and dishwasher. If you are putting in vinyl florring I don't think it would make much difference which way it was done. If it is put down after the cabinets are installed and cut around the cabinets the toe kick will cover any cracks there. I also had our contractor cut plexiglass to fit in the bottom of the cabinet where the sink is and then cut some four inch wide pieces to go around the sides and silicone those down to the bottom piece just in case we ever had leak uhnder the sink. He told me later that he might just start offering all his customers this option. It will really save the wood in the bottom of the cabinet. I am really happy I did that because we did have a leak even with putting in al new plumbing. Good luck with your kitchen experience. I have heard some bad stories about kitchen remodels taking ridiculous amounts of time which is really inconvenient. Luckily, our guy did really good and we had everything back in in exactly two weeks. Good luck, Glenn - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 5:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting Aloha everyone, It's time to replace the counters in our kitchen and we have been advised that since our cabinets are 30 years old and were not the best quality to begin with, that we really need to replace the cabinets also. We were planning to install vinyl in the kitchen to match the vinyl that we put in the entry way and in part of my office, but now they are suggesting that since we are going to replace the cabinets, that we should wait until the cabinets have been removed, then install the vinyl and then put the cabinets on top of the vinyl. Is that usual? I am wanting thoughts and ideas about this project. Do any of you have items in your kitchens that you really like or dislike? I was looking at some lazy-susan units that look like they would be very helpful, but I just don't know how well they hold up and if they are truly sturdy. Besides suggesting that I move out until the job is done, I welcome any and all suggestions. Perhaps I can get my husband to take a vacation while the work is being done. That would really be of great help,...grin. Thanks, Betsy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] What can you tell me about my router given this info
. 11 Amp motor producing 1-3/4 Peak HP . 27,500 rpm single speed motor . 100% sealed ball bearings . Dust proof switch . Lever release height adjustment . Accurate micrometer depth-of-cut adjustment . New auto-release collet system . Precison machined aluminum motor housing and base The 690LR includes: . Model 690LR Router (#6902 motor #1001 base) . 1/4 collet (#42999) . 1/2 collet (#42950) . Collet wrenches (#42596) . Operating manual Features: . New auto-release collet system ends frozen bits . Precision machined aluminum motor housing and base . Accurate micrometer depth-of-cut adjustment . Cam lock lever enables simple coarse height adjustments and motor release . Micrometer depth adjustor accurate to 1/128 . Dust-sealed switch and sealed ball bearing construction enhance tool durability . Precision machined aluminum motor housing base . Auto-release collet system enables simple bit removal . Collets included to accept 1/4 and 1/2 shank bits . Under table stop prevents motor from inadvertently rotating out of base . Overmolded rubber handles provide a comfortable and secure grip Tech Specs: . Power: 120 V AC, 25-60 Hz . Horsepower: 1-3/4 HP . Amps: 11 . No Load Speed: 27,500 RPM . Motor Diameter: 3-1/2 . Collets: 1/4 1/2 . Base: 5-3/4 Round . Length: 12 . Width: 5.5 . Height: 8 . Weight: 8 lbs _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Matt Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 5:49 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] What can you tell me about my router given this info By the way, I had a contractor friend drive me home from bible study this morning, so I took the opportunity to get him to look at my router. Here's what he said/read. model number 690 lr heavy duty router motor 6902 or too 60 hz not sure what HZ stands for. 11A maybe amp? 27 500/\minimum rpm the base is model number 1001 t2 this info is all found on the tag which is on cord, directly down from where the chord comes out of the router. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 5:37 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] What can you tell me about my router given this info That is a fixed base router. The part about Tennessee is where they are located. When you twist the body and it looks like it is coming apart, that is how you adjust the bit height. There is a large ring around the body that locks it in place when you have set the bit height. That model has a bracket or guard around the on off toggle switch. Have to love the 6 inch cord too... Now the good news. It is a fairly light weight router and will do fine for most small jobs. Making a sign would be a lot easier with a plunge router because you don't have to do any tipping, just start it and push down. I've never tried following a template with a fixed base but I know it would be tricky at the least. You do understand that the sign making kits you are looking at requires the letters to be cut into the wood and you aren't cutting out letters to glue to another board. Right? You put the template over the board you want to route and you are cutting letters into the board usually with a core box bit. Some people think they are cutting out letters and that isn't the case. - Original Message - From: Matt To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 12:43 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] What can you tell me about my router given this info think I have only used this current router all of once or twice. The base or plate or whatever is adjustable, just not spring loaded. You can adjust it, by turning the router to unscrew it from this base, then clamp it down. I got my 6 year old to read on it before she left to school. She said, it's a porter cable, motor 1001-t2 Jackson tenessee, 38305 USA Made in mexico. I don't know what all that means. hahahah I mean, probably city, state and zip, andso on, but the other I'm not sure of yet. I had my wife look at it just now and she said this. model 1001-72, on the base plate or whatever the term is for it, the part which comes off,/unscrews and which can be clampped to a router table, she thinks the number on it is 995829 beside that it has 2007 then beside that it has 14-49 Tell me if you know what any of that means Matt [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Remote speaker for my TV
The ones on the front are normally inputs for hooking up cameras and game systems. You want output jacks, which are located on the back, or on some of these new flat panel TV's, on the side. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Vos Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 6:24 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Remote speaker for my TV We have a treadmill in a room separate from the TV, though it is visible through the doorway. My wife would like to watch TV while exercising, without having the TV on loud enough to crumble the plaster ceiling. Does anyone know if I can plug in to one of the jacks on the front of the TV to connect to a speaker in the other room? I know they are different colors. Which one, or which ones do I need to use? Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Snow Blowers, Outside Electrical Cords, Remote Car Starters, Trickle Chargers, Ice Melt, Furnaces That Can't Keep Up, Etc.
To hot, to dry, and to many illegals. i will keep my snow, ice, and tornados. And it is never to cold for beer, but if you wish to warm the insides, home made peppermint schnapps warm from the stove does wonders. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 10:14 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Snow Blowers, Outside Electrical Cords, Remote Car Starters, Trickle Chargers, Ice Melt, Furnaces That Can't Keep Up, Etc. I love it in the Southwest. Ya it gets a bit warm in the summer however that is why GOD made decks, barbecues and cold beer. I grew up in Montana and even the government can't print money fast enough to get me back to the snow. BTW it is 51 degrees and cloudy this morning. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 8:41 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Snow Blowers, Outside Electrical Cords, Remote Car Starters, Trickle Chargers, Ice Melt, Furnaces That Can't Keep Up, Etc. We would then have to learn to handle air conditioning and maybe fire ants problems. So to quote Spoc the list would live long and prosper. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges tom.bethhodges@ mailto:tom.bethhodges%40gmail.com gmail.com To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 10:24 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Snow Blowers, Outside Electrical Cords, Remote Car Starters, Trickle Chargers, Ice Melt, Furnaces That Can't Keep Up, Etc. Move south!!! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAG .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAG E_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/ users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ NOD32 3713 (20081223) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset. http://www.eset.com com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAG .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAG E_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/ users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links -- BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS -- Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 232655372) is
