[BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?
I thought this was interesting. Shane Feed: Productopia: The ConsumerSearch Blog Posted on: Saturday, July 24, 2010 8:02 AM Author: Catherine Jo Morgan Subject: How much is a finger worth? How about a hand? Do table saw http://www.consumersearch.com/table-saw-reviews manufacturers have an obligation to use the safest technology available? The first jury to consider this question -- in a civil lawsuit against the maker of Ryobi table saws -- answered quite a definite yes, to the tune of a 1.5 million dollar award http://www.boston.com/yourtown/malden/articles/2010/03/06/man_wins_15m_in_first_of_its_kind_saw_case/%20 to the plaintiff. read http://www.consumersearch.com/blog/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0?utm_source=RSSutm_medium=RSS more http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:yIl2AUoC8zA http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:qj6IDK7rITs http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:V_sGLiPBpWU http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:gIN9vFwOqvQ http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI:F7zBnMyn0Lo http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/product-reviews/~4/RST_N4bUEek View http://rss.consumersearch.com/~r/product-reviews/~3/RST_N4bUEek/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0 article... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?
Try http://www.consumersearch.com/blog/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0?utm_source=R SSutm_medium=RSS Shane From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Max Robinson Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 9:15 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? I didn't get anything relevant from any of those links. Would you care to post the article? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com mailto:funwithtransistors-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker shanehec...@gmail.com mailto:shanehecker%40gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 3:35 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth? I thought this was interesting. Shane Feed: Productopia: The ConsumerSearch Blog Posted on: Saturday, July 24, 2010 8:02 AM Author: Catherine Jo Morgan Subject: How much is a finger worth? How about a hand? Do table saw http://www.consumersearch.com/table-saw-reviews manufacturers have an obligation to use the safest technology available? The first jury to consider this question -- in a civil lawsuit against the maker of Ryobi table saws -- answered quite a definite yes, to the tune of a 1.5 million dollar award http://www.boston.com/yourtown/malden/articles/2010/03/06/man_wins_15m_in_f irst_of_its_kind_saw_case/%20 to the plaintiff. read http://www.consumersearch.com/blog/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0?utm_source= RSS http://www.consumersearch.com/blog/how-much-is-a-finger-worth-0?utm_source= RSSutm_medium=RSS utm_medium=RSS more http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI :yIl2AUoC8zA http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI :qj6IDK7rITs http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI :V_sGLiPBpWU http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI :gIN9vFwOqvQ http://rss.consumersearch.com/~ff/product-reviews?a=RST_N4bUEek:Ijc4TGBBRpI :F7zBnMyn0Lo http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/product-reviews/~4/RST_N4bUEek View http://rss.consumersearch.com/~r/product-reviews/~3/RST_N4bUEek/how-much-is -a-finger-worth-0 article... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 PAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo ! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
I don't have one, but know of someone who does. We used it the other day to secure 2sx4 studs for cutting. The jaws can open up to 3 feet. It also can fold up for storage and transport. Hope this is helpful. Shane From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 9:37 AM To: Blind Handyman List Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Does anyone have the JawHorse? It sounds pretty slick, but possibly one of those things that sounds a lot slicker than it actually is in practice? wood.toolIDay.com has it for $149 plus $6 shipping which is about 25 bucks cheaper than anywhere else. I'm thinking of asking Sofia for one for fathers day. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
Funny. Did she have a gas petal? At least that's what it looks like to me. It locks the jaws in place, then you slide a switch up to maintain that lock. Shane From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 6:25 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Shane, From your description I think I might have dated her once! - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 6:24 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse I don't have one, but know of someone who does. We used it the other day to secure 2sx4 studs for cutting. The jaws can open up to 3 feet. It also can fold up for storage and transport. Hope this is helpful. Shane From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 9:37 AM To: Blind Handyman List Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Does anyone have the JawHorse? It sounds pretty slick, but possibly one of those things that sounds a lot slicker than it actually is in practice? wood.toolIDay.com has it for $149 plus $6 shipping which is about 25 bucks cheaper than anywhere else. I'm thinking of asking Sofia for one for fathers day. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
I thought it was useful, but right now, I don't have a place of my own. So it will have to wait until I get a place. Didn't drool on it, sorry. Shane From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 7:37 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse Shane, What was your impression of the JawHorse? Did you think it was useful? Did you covet it? Did you drool on it? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] calibrating oven
Isn't there something made by Cobolt that can measure temperature? I thought it was an accessory to one of their multimeters. Sorry if I misspelled the name of the company. Shane -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 3:52 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] calibrating oven Karen knows that our oven is off by at least 25 degrees. In order to calibrate the oven, I need an accurate digital thermometer that will go up to 550 degrees. The instructions are to set the temp to 550 and when that temp is reached hold the bake button in. To set it I need a way to check the actual temp. we have a spring thermometer but have no faith in that. I just read that the blind mice have a cooking thermometer that will go up that high. Since it is a probe type I wonder if we would just touch the rack for the actual temperature? Any suggestions? I hate to call someone in to do that job since all we need is a way to record the actual temp when the pre heat light goes out. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5188 (20100610) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters
This is not a separate heat pump add-on that you install on the water heater. The heat pump is actually integrated with the unit. Cost is around $1500. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:50 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters I don't know much about them, the little bit of research I have done has been on geothermal heat pumps. The heat recoverable is relatively low, about 110F so these are really pre-heaters. You can certainly save some money but the cost is very high and unless you are using the heat pump equipment for other things like heating or cooling the home so that the capital cost is expressed over more intensive and varied applications it doesn't seem to me to be very effective. The emersion heater is needed to raise the water temperature another 20 degrees all of the time and much more than that during heavy water use. As a pre-heater though warming the water entering the tank with heat generated from the air conditioning for example serves water heat savings as well as improving the efficiency of the air conditioning. The cost of a single purpose heat pump system must be relatively high, just think of a small room air conditioner. It is very similar technology. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:11 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters And what do they cost relative to a gas or electric unit? Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 11:54 PM To: blindhandy...@yahoogroups. com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters Has anyone seen the hybrid water heaters? If so, what do you think of them? If you have one, how do you like it. For those who don't know, the hybrid water heaters use a combination of a heat pump and electric elements to heat the water. This is supposed to result in significant savings, making it cheaper to run than a natural gas unit. Shane. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters
I wish I could get electricity for that. I'm paying about 14 cents per kwh. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 2:39 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters I am aware of that, 15 hundred is a pretty expensive tank. My remarks were just to say that the technology would be similar. A standard electric emersion tank here would be under $400 and so far we pay under 6 cents per KWH. would have to use a load of hot water to recover 1100 bucks at 6 cents per KWH. Of course we can expect that price to climb over coming years. As part of a more complete heat pump system and particularly part of a geothermal system it would really begin to make sense though the pay-back still seems to be in excess of 10 years according to most of the supposed experts. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 2:19 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters This is not a separate heat pump add-on that you install on the water heater. The heat pump is actually integrated with the unit. Cost is around $1500. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:50 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters I don't know much about them, the little bit of research I have done has been on geothermal heat pumps. The heat recoverable is relatively low, about 110F so these are really pre-heaters. You can certainly save some money but the cost is very high and unless you are using the heat pump equipment for other things like heating or cooling the home so that the capital cost is expressed over more intensive and varied applications it doesn't seem to me to be very effective. The emersion heater is needed to raise the water temperature another 20 degrees all of the time and much more than that during heavy water use. As a pre-heater though warming the water entering the tank with heat generated from the air conditioning for example serves water heat savings as well as improving the efficiency of the air conditioning. The cost of a single purpose heat pump system must be relatively high, just think of a small room air conditioner. It is very similar technology. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:11 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters And what do they cost relative to a gas or electric unit? Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 11:54 PM To: blindhandy...@yahoogroups. com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters Has anyone seen the hybrid water heaters? If so, what do you think of them? If you have one, how do you like it. For those who don't know, the hybrid water heaters use a combination of a heat pump and electric elements to heat the water. This is supposed to result in significant savings, making it cheaper to run than a natural gas unit. Shane. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!
You might want to look at the Whirlpool machines. They have dials and raised buttons. Also, you can tell where you are as far as cycles goes. Shane - Original Message - From: Jim Gatteys To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:08 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine! Hi all! My washer has finally bitten the dust and its time to be replaced. And they've definitely changed since the last time I made a purchase. I currently have a front loading model but it seems like most of those nowadays have touch panels and don't seem to be very accessible to blind folks. Anybody have any suggestions on what you might have purchased that is accessible? Thanks for any help, Jim - Find me on facebook or: Skype: jimintexas Yahoo or Aim/Ichat: jgatteys Msn: jgatt...@gmail.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!
I can't speak for everyone, but my parents have a Whirlpool front loading machine that has worked flawlessly for several years. Before that, they had a Maytag Neptune which I now have. It is still working well. The only thing that was done to the Maytag was to replace a door seal (as part of a settlement from a class action) and fix one spring. Shane - Original Message - From: Jim Gatteys To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 12:39 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine! I've looked at some of the whirlpool stuff abut have had several friends say what bad luck they've had with getting them repaired and when I look them up online its kind of scary. Just like the Maytags. But I'll check them out as well. Jim On Apr 9, 2010, at 12:05 PM, Shane Hecker wrote: You might want to look at the Whirlpool machines. They have dials and raised buttons. Also, you can tell where you are as far as cycles goes. Shane - Original Message - From: Jim Gatteys To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:08 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine! Hi all! My washer has finally bitten the dust and its time to be replaced. And they've definitely changed since the last time I made a purchase. I currently have a front loading model but it seems like most of those nowadays have touch panels and don't seem to be very accessible to blind folks. Anybody have any suggestions on what you might have purchased that is accessible? Thanks for any help, Jim - Find me on facebook or: Skype: jimintexas Yahoo or Aim/Ichat: jgatteys Msn: jgatt...@gmail.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] - Find me on facebook or: Skype: jimintexas Yahoo or Aim/Ichat: jgatteys Msn: jgatt...@gmail.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rent or own, that is the question
If you use the roofing nailer quite a bit, get one. If not, do you have a friend who would let you borrow one? If not, then you don't have much choice except to rent. Shane From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Terry Klarich Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 3:46 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rent or own, that is the question Hey all: Over the past 4 years or so, I've needed a roofing nailer 3 times. If I add up all the money I've spent on renting one, I have purchased one for the tool rental company out right. In my mind, I'm thinking I won't use one enough to purchase one; but, evidently, this isn't the case. I've wasted about $250 so far. On the other hand, I don't think I'll need one for the forseeable future. Unless, I have to replace another roof plumming vent as I did last weekend. Having a nailer sure makes the job go much quicker and easier than a hammer and box of roofing nails. I'm half way tempted to get one the next time I have to do any roof work. What do you all think? Terry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] it's quiet
Is anyone alive out there? Haven't seen any traffic today which I thought was unusual. Oh yeah, for those of you that get ABC and were thinking about building a house, you might want to check out Extreme Make Over Home edition. It comes on tonight at 9 p.m est. If my information is correct, the builds are going to be neat to watch. Nudura is going to be showcasing their product on 1 if not both builds.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] it's quiet
That makes sense. Was with my family today at a home and garden show. Shane - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 5:19 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] it's quiet Everyone is out with their honey, doing the Valentine's thing. smile - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 18:07 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] it's quiet Is anyone alive out there? Haven't seen any traffic today which I thought was unusual. Oh yeah, for those of you that get ABC and were thinking about building a house, you might want to check out Extreme Make Over Home edition. It comes on tonight at 9 p.m est. If my information is correct, the builds are going to be neat to watch. Nudura is going to be showcasing their product on 1 if not both builds. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] lime (not the one you use for drinks)
Was wondering what lime looks like. Someone told me it has the texture of concrete and it's used on roads to mark lanes. And if someone wanted to get it, where would they get it from? I've also heard it gets nasty when mixed with water (burn baby burn). Shane
[BlindHandyMan] compresser question
How do you know when you have enough oil in a compresser? I know what you will likely say look at the gage. Little hard to do when you are totally blind. Sure, I could get sighted help, but would like to do this independenly. Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] best talking thermostat
I'm using the one from www.talkingthermostat.com and it works for me. Shane - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 9:11 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] best talking thermostat Well someone at our Blind amateur radio club asked about the best talking thermostat. I saw about eight hundred plus choices on google. What is the experiences of the group? Ron [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers
They should have them. The one close to me has them in stock on a regular basis. Hoping the one close to you is the same way. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 7:27 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Oh okay Shane. I guess I was a little confused about that. The reason for the confusion is that when I went to Harbor Freight, They showed me a small palm nailer for about 30 dollars an then a larger one for 40 dollars. They didn't show me anything that included the kit with the adaptors. Now that I have the Item number from you, I'll call then and see if they have that in stock. Thanks again for the info. Regards, Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 7:47 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Just to be clear, the kit includes the palm nailer. So you are paying $30 for the extra attachments. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 1:56 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Thanks for the info. It looks like if I buy the palm nailer from Harbor Freight for 40 dollars and then they charge me 69 dollars for a kit just to be able to use it, then I'm the one who is getting nailed. That info makes me feel like I'll never go to Harbor Freight again, if that's the way they do business. Regards, Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 9:35 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers It's all part of the kit. What you want is the air hand nailer kit, item number 46433-ZZZ. It should have a small plastic case with the nailer, tips, and instructions inside. What you are likely looking at is the palm nailer, which is just the nailer. The kit costs about $69, the nailer by itself costs less. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 7:40 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Thank you. Are you saying there is a separate kit for the adaptors or is this kit part of the purchase of the nailer at Harbor Freight? Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 9:17 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers If you get the kit from harbor freight, it will come with a large tip, a slightly smaller magnetic tip, and a finishing tip. Also, you will get a hammer attachment. Switching between attachments is simple. Just don't lose the spring. Take the tip off using the tools provided in the kit. Slide the tip you want into the jacket you just removed, then put it back on and you are good to go. If you get the kit, you will see what I'm talking about. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 5:18 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Thanks for the info. I looked at a pneumatic palm nailer at Harbor Freight yesterday. It was 40 dollars and took up to a 16 D Nail. What I don't quite understand is that the hole in the end , where you place the head end of the nail, is pretty large, about 5 sixteenth of an inch or more. How would one hold a small finishing nail straight to nail it in straight with such a large diameter tube to place the nail into? Any one know how that works? Thanks, Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 12:22 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers
Just to be clear, the kit includes the palm nailer. So you are paying $30 for the extra attachments. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 1:56 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Thanks for the info. It looks like if I buy the palm nailer from Harbor Freight for 40 dollars and then they charge me 69 dollars for a kit just to be able to use it, then I'm the one who is getting nailed. That info makes me feel like I'll never go to Harbor Freight again, if that's the way they do business. Regards, Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 9:35 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers It's all part of the kit. What you want is the air hand nailer kit, item number 46433-ZZZ. It should have a small plastic case with the nailer, tips, and instructions inside. What you are likely looking at is the palm nailer, which is just the nailer. The kit costs about $69, the nailer by itself costs less. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 7:40 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Thank you. Are you saying there is a separate kit for the adaptors or is this kit part of the purchase of the nailer at Harbor Freight? Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 9:17 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers If you get the kit from harbor freight, it will come with a large tip, a slightly smaller magnetic tip, and a finishing tip. Also, you will get a hammer attachment. Switching between attachments is simple. Just don't lose the spring. Take the tip off using the tools provided in the kit. Slide the tip you want into the jacket you just removed, then put it back on and you are good to go. If you get the kit, you will see what I'm talking about. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 5:18 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Thanks for the info. I looked at a pneumatic palm nailer at Harbor Freight yesterday. It was 40 dollars and took up to a 16 D Nail. What I don't quite understand is that the hole in the end , where you place the head end of the nail, is pretty large, about 5 sixteenth of an inch or more. How would one hold a small finishing nail straight to nail it in straight with such a large diameter tube to place the nail into? Any one know how that works? Thanks, Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 12:22 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers They are available in rechargeable and pneumatic versions. There is a Mastercraft electric model available on sale at Canadian Tire this week for $79. It is a 12 volt model. As for which is better, as usual it depends on use and need and similar things. Maybe the best is a pneumatic one from Porter Cable, it seems to allow for the widest range of nail sizes up to 6 and a half inches.I don't remember what they charge for it but I think a bit over 200 bucks. I think it is the one I would buy if I expect to do a lot of work. The disadvantage is dragging around all that hose. For a few dozen nails or a one off deck or fence requiring a couple of hundred nails I think the electric would sufficient for most people. a little heavier but more easily portable and no hose pulling you back or under your feet and so on. Bear in mind that I don't own one, I still get some perverse pleasure from swinging a hammer except of course those really close quarters situations where you don't have room. If ever I do any significant amount of framing again I'll buy a nail gun and shoot now that they are coming down in price. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 10:47 AM
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers
If you get the kit from harbor freight, it will come with a large tip, a slightly smaller magnetic tip, and a finishing tip. Also, you will get a hammer attachment. Switching between attachments is simple. Just don't lose the spring. Take the tip off using the tools provided in the kit. Slide the tip you want into the jacket you just removed, then put it back on and you are good to go. If you get the kit, you will see what I'm talking about. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 5:18 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Thanks for the info. I looked at a pneumatic palm nailer at Harbor Freight yesterday. It was 40 dollars and took up to a 16 D Nail. What I don't quite understand is that the hole in the end , where you place the head end of the nail, is pretty large, about 5 sixteenth of an inch or more. How would one hold a small finishing nail straight to nail it in straight with such a large diameter tube to place the nail into? Any one know how that works? Thanks, Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 12:22 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers They are available in rechargeable and pneumatic versions. There is a Mastercraft electric model available on sale at Canadian Tire this week for $79. It is a 12 volt model. As for which is better, as usual it depends on use and need and similar things. Maybe the best is a pneumatic one from Porter Cable, it seems to allow for the widest range of nail sizes up to 6 and a half inches.I don't remember what they charge for it but I think a bit over 200 bucks. I think it is the one I would buy if I expect to do a lot of work. The disadvantage is dragging around all that hose. For a few dozen nails or a one off deck or fence requiring a couple of hundred nails I think the electric would sufficient for most people. a little heavier but more easily portable and no hose pulling you back or under your feet and so on. Bear in mind that I don't own one, I still get some perverse pleasure from swinging a hammer except of course those really close quarters situations where you don't have room. If ever I do any significant amount of framing again I'll buy a nail gun and shoot now that they are coming down in price. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 10:47 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers Can anyone tell me if Palm Nailers are available in both electric and pneumatic? If they are available in both, dan anyone recommend which might be the best?Thanks, Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] 2 drawer dishwasher?
My aunt in Austin has one. As far as I know, she hasn't had problems with it. However, I'd caution you to do research before getting one of these as they don't have the best track record for reliability. Check out http://www.consumersearch.com/dishwasher-reviews for more information. Shane - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 11:48 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] 2 drawer dishwasher? Aloha all, Does anyone have one of these dishwashers that look like two drawers? Apparently, according to my friend Google, you can wash the dishes in each drawer separately. This seems like it would be good for a couple. Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question.
I could see that if the vents were blocked. But if they aren't, wouldn't they work as before? As far as the ceiling goes, I thought when you sprayed foam under the roof deck, you turned the attic into a part of your living space. I'm a bit confused as everything I've seen suggests you can do this. They say if the roof is ventilated, don't block the vents, but that it still works. But it's also said the best way to do it is to not ventilate the roof and spray the entire underside with foam. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 8:29 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. He wouldn't spray the foam under the roof deck, that would negate the point of ventilating the space and further, he would lose the air sealing effect he would gain from covering the ceiling. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. So long as you don't block the vents you will be fine. Do you have recessed lighting? If so, be careful with those fixtures (especially if they are older) as they can get hot. Do you plan to spray foam on the floor or under the roof deck? Either one will work, but if you spray under the roof you will turn your attic into a storage space, which will be only a few degrees warmer or cooler than your living space. Shane - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 4:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. My attic has opening to allow blow through. Could I have this spray job done to save me long hours of dragging either pink or stryofoam up into that dusty oven? How will the flow of air work if it gets sprayed up there? On Sat, 12 Sep 2009, aadorno wrote: hi listers I am thinking about getting spray insilation for my house. the way this works is that they make a hole in the wall or floor and they spray in the insilation and after a bit it drys and expans in the space that it was sprayed in. my question is to the list is this. is any one on the list ever had this done to there walls. also is it safe? well that's it. thanks for your time, Angel. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question.
If the information I have is correct, then you will definitely want it for your ceilings. Someone told me around 42% of the heat loss and gain comes through the attic, another 10 to 15% through floors, and another 10% through walls. Windows supposedly account for another 10% or so. I'm sure someone here will have more accurate numbers. However, the bottom line is you want good insulation, especially in the attic. Shane - Original Message - From: aadorno To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 8:39 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question. no I don't have it under my roof right now but I am really thinking about getting it for my walls ceeling and floors. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 3:59 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question. I'm assuming you are talking about the foam insulation. Yes, it is safe. Haven't had it sprayed in my current house, but when I build my new house, I will either have it sprayed in or use the insulated panels. Do you have the foam under your roof? Just wondering as this could potentialy save you some money on utility bills if this is done. Shane - Original Message - From: aadorno To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 1:12 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question. hi listers I am thinking about getting spray insilation for my house. the way this works is that they make a hole in the wall or floor and they spray in the insilation and after a bit it drys and expans in the space that it was sprayed in. my question is to the list is this. is any one on the list ever had this done to there walls. also is it safe? well that's it. thanks for your time, Angel. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question.
I'm assuming you are talking about the foam insulation. Yes, it is safe. Haven't had it sprayed in my current house, but when I build my new house, I will either have it sprayed in or use the insulated panels. Do you have the foam under your roof? Just wondering as this could potentialy save you some money on utility bills if this is done. Shane - Original Message - From: aadorno To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 1:12 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] spray insilation question. hi listers I am thinking about getting spray insilation for my house. the way this works is that they make a hole in the wall or floor and they spray in the insilation and after a bit it drys and expans in the space that it was sprayed in. my question is to the list is this. is any one on the list ever had this done to there walls. also is it safe? well that's it. thanks for your time, Angel. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question.
So long as you don't block the vents you will be fine. Do you have recessed lighting? If so, be careful with those fixtures (especially if they are older) as they can get hot. Do you plan to spray foam on the floor or under the roof deck? Either one will work, but if you spray under the roof you will turn your attic into a storage space, which will be only a few degrees warmer or cooler than your living space. Shane - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 4:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] additional about spray insilation question. My attic has opening to allow blow through. Could I have this spray job done to save me long hours of dragging either pink or stryofoam up into that dusty oven? How will the flow of air work if it gets sprayed up there? On Sat, 12 Sep 2009, aadorno wrote: hi listers I am thinking about getting spray insilation for my house. the way this works is that they make a hole in the wall or floor and they spray in the insilation and after a bit it drys and expans in the space that it was sprayed in. my question is to the list is this. is any one on the list ever had this done to there walls. also is it safe? well that's it. thanks for your time, Angel. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
California has a very high living expense. So that doesn't surprise me too much. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 11:55 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house Shane, first thing I'd do is ask local contractors and builders what they do. If you choose some off the wall system that's unknown to local workers, you're asking for chaos. Depends on local conditions, supply availability etc. as well as local knowledge. Around here, San Francisco area, eighty thousand would hardly build you a shack. Tom Fowle [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
Whoever had a house that size would have the ultimate dream house. Shane - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 6:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] building a house oops, yep i typed it wrong, that would be a huge house. _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:48 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I think he meant fifteen hundred square feet, and I also see below that his electric bill is about 100 per month. My parents live in Reno, Nevada, and after many years of trying different settings for the thermostat, they believe that leaving the temperature the same all the time is best. At 07:38 PM 8/11/2009, you wrote: Shane, Actually, i wouldn't build a house right now. with the current house market, you can probably buy something better then you can build for that price. And if you build, it will probably be worth less than it cost to build. that aside, I think building a house would be fun, and I hope to in 5 years. if your 80k budget does not include purchasing a lot, you might want to see what lots are selling for where you want to build, assuming you are going to need to buy one. 15000 sq/ft house for 80k...well, that will be tuff, $53.33 per sq/ft. They say the average is $115 per sq/ft of home for a basic house. But I am sure it can be done. If you want energy efficient, spend the majority of your money on your building envelope. things like light fixture, flooring, cabinets, etc... can be upgraded at a later date when you have the money for it. Cost will be different for you, than they are for me, so you need to speak with contractors to get ideas of what things will cost. Compare using closed cell spray foam to other methods of insulation. It is about an R7 per inch, and seals against air leaks as well. So in a 2x4 wall, you will have an R value of 24.5. Add 1 inch of xps foam to the outside, that has an R of 5, and you have a 29.5 R value wall. Closed cell spray foam runs about $4 per sq/ft of 2x4 wall here. 2x4's are a little less expensive than 2x6's, and much less than going with something like ICF's. 2x4's will give you a few more sq/ft of interior space. Closed cell foam also adds to the strength of your walls. if you do not mind vinyl windows, I would go with something like the American Craftsman sold at Home Depot. They are reasonably priced and are pretty good windows. They make the vinyl for Anderson Windows. But they are about half the price of an Anderson or Pella window. Go with a non-vented attic. Insulation, spray foam is best, is put right against the underside of the roof deck. This makes the attic part of your conditioned air. This does not increase the roof temp by more than a couple of degrees, like some will have you believe, and you do not have that hot attic air working it's way back down in to your house. When you do this, the roof should have a layer of water and ice shield on the whole roof though, instead of roofing paper. The reason for this, is to give you a extra layer of protection if your shingles were to fail. With the insulation right against the roof deck, leaks can take a lot longer to show up. Use a light colored shingle, or roof coating, to reflect the heat back away from the house. The HVAC contractor needs to run a manual J to size your a/c and heat properly. . Systems to small or to big can cost you more money. Radiate floor heating can make a house feel more comfortable at a lower temp, but you will not have that many heating days, and a central air system needs the blower to circulate the air, so you might as will just used forced heat and air. All that stuff about turning back the thermostat at night, and up during the day, doesn't really work in my experience and opinion, your best to only change it be a degree or to, or just leave it at the same temp all the time. Try to use standard sized products in your house build. Example windows, a stock window is much less than a custom ordered one. try to keep your dimensions divisible by 4, there is less waste of product, so you are buying a few sheets less of plywood and such. Michael _ From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 2:50 PM To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I'm looking to build a 1500 sq foot 1
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
Someone who has a house that big will likely have a butler, gardener, waiters, and who knows who (or what) else to take care of them. This is the rich folks house. I'll likely never have a house that big in my lifetime, and don't think I'd want one that big. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 8:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house Do you really think so? That is a lot of cleaning and dusting and maintenance and windows to wash and toilets to scrub ? ? ? - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 7:30 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house Whoever had a house that size would have the ultimate dream house. Shane - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 6:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] building a house oops, yep i typed it wrong, that would be a huge house. _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:48 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I think he meant fifteen hundred square feet, and I also see below that his electric bill is about 100 per month. My parents live in Reno, Nevada, and after many years of trying different settings for the thermostat, they believe that leaving the temperature the same all the time is best. At 07:38 PM 8/11/2009, you wrote: Shane, Actually, i wouldn't build a house right now. with the current house market, you can probably buy something better then you can build for that price. And if you build, it will probably be worth less than it cost to build. that aside, I think building a house would be fun, and I hope to in 5 years. if your 80k budget does not include purchasing a lot, you might want to see what lots are selling for where you want to build, assuming you are going to need to buy one. 15000 sq/ft house for 80k...well, that will be tuff, $53.33 per sq/ft. They say the average is $115 per sq/ft of home for a basic house. But I am sure it can be done. If you want energy efficient, spend the majority of your money on your building envelope. things like light fixture, flooring, cabinets, etc... can be upgraded at a later date when you have the money for it. Cost will be different for you, than they are for me, so you need to speak with contractors to get ideas of what things will cost. Compare using closed cell spray foam to other methods of insulation. It is about an R7 per inch, and seals against air leaks as well. So in a 2x4 wall, you will have an R value of 24.5. Add 1 inch of xps foam to the outside, that has an R of 5, and you have a 29.5 R value wall. Closed cell spray foam runs about $4 per sq/ft of 2x4 wall here. 2x4's are a little less expensive than 2x6's, and much less than going with something like ICF's. 2x4's will give you a few more sq/ft of interior space. Closed cell foam also adds to the strength of your walls. if you do not mind vinyl windows, I would go with something like the American Craftsman sold at Home Depot. They are reasonably priced and are pretty good windows. They make the vinyl for Anderson Windows. But they are about half the price of an Anderson or Pella window. Go with a non-vented attic. Insulation, spray foam is best, is put right against the underside of the roof deck. This makes the attic part of your conditioned air. This does not increase the roof temp by more than a couple of degrees, like some will have you believe, and you do not have that hot attic air working it's way back down in to your house. When you do this, the roof should have a layer of water and ice shield on the whole roof though, instead of roofing paper. The reason for this, is to give you a extra layer of protection if your shingles were to fail. With the insulation right against the roof deck, leaks can take a lot longer to show up. Use a light colored shingle, or roof coating, to reflect the heat back away from the house. The HVAC contractor needs to run a manual J to size your a/c and heat properly. . Systems to small or to big can cost you more money. Radiate floor heating can make a house feel more comfortable at a lower temp, but you will not have that many heating days, and a central air system needs the blower to circulate the air, so you might as will just used forced heat and air. All that stuff about turning back the thermostat at night, and up during the day, doesn't really work in my experience and opinion, your best to only change it be a degree or to, or just leave it at the same temp all the time. Try
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
I'm looking to build a 1500 sq foot 1 story house. Here's some information about a house I'm currently in. It is about 1280 sq feet. It has standard 2x4 walls with fiberglass bats. The windows are single panes in aluminum frames. The doors are insulated metal. The attic has standard bats, but on top of this, there is blown insulation. I think it's about r38 in total. I keep the ac at 78 during the day, 75 during the night. In the dead of summer, my bill is between $150 and $160. My goal in building a house is to decrease the amount I pay for electricity by a decent amount. The last thing I want is to have to pay $200 to cool a house. In doing research, I've seen people say they have big houses and are paying about what I pay. One article I remember seeing indicated that the writer paid about $168 in the middle of summer for a 3400 sq foot, 2 story house. According to the writer, it is all electric. His wife likes to cook. The kicker is that he keeps his ac at 75 day and night. It is noteworthy to mention he built with icf. If I could build a 1500 sq foot house and have a bill at about $80, or even $100 in the middle of summer, that would be great. It is my opinion that I'd be a fool to not do everything I could to save energy within reason. Shane - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:08 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house Hmm, so many possibilities for building a house from scratch these days. I think that radiant under floor heating and heavy walls are probably a good start, either masonry or rammed earth walls. Air tight but with good air exchange. There is a company in Germany, can't remember the name, but they make windows that are the most efficient in the world. They have triple seals or something and have a lever that pulls them closed and seals them. Plus they are triple pained and low E and all that. However, you can probably spend the better part of your 80 grand just on the windows. Is your goal to make a house that costs nothing to run, or do you want to build the largest house you can get for the money even though it might cost a bit more to heat and cool? They are kind of mutually exclusive. In either case, I envy you as I think it would be quite a lot of fun to design and build a house from scratch. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
Trees do grow here, but we are in one of the worst droughts in the history of this area. So they may start bursting into flames before it's over. We need a tropical storm to come through so we can get some rain. We are about a foot if not more below normal. Shane - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:09 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house Shane, Since cooling is such a big factor for you, don't forget that landscaping may also be very useful. Take all the advice you've gotten so far, and add in some trees and shrubbery to shade the house. Do trees grow in South Texas or do they just burst into flames? One of the women on my Peru trek built a house and went off the grid. She uses solar hot water for the under floor radiant heat, and for her hot water. She has several solar panels for electricity. She has no other electric, but I think she said she has a generator. She is in Colorado outside of Denver. If you really want to lower your electric costs, you may want to look into a solar panel or two. They are freakin expensive but you might be able to get a good rebate with all the green stimulus stuff going on these days. I got a quote of about 5 grand installed, after some rebates, but that was before the big stimulus package passed, so I might be able to nock some off of that price. For 5 grand, I would get 1100 KWH a year in the Pittsburgh area. You would get more in Texas. For numbers sake, 1100 KWH a year is about half of my total electric usage. We don't use a lot of electricity, gas hot water heat, gas hot water, gas stove. My annual electric cost is roughly 400 bucks a year. So, a single solar panel would save me about 200 bucks a year, so would take about 25 years to pay it off. Of course, electricity will get more expensive over the years, so my payback time will probably be a fair bit less than 25 years. You may save more depending on how much your electric costs. Never-the-less, if you can suck up the up-front cost, it will certainly save you on your monthly budget. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
The research tells me adobe is not good in humid climates. Shane - Original Message - From: kevindoucet.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:17 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house is there any concern with humidity or moister with this sort of structure? - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 6:41 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I'm in south texas. There are no hills to speak of. I heard of someone building an adobe house in this area, but have no idea how well it would stand to a category 5 hurricane. Shane - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 5:56 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house Build an earth home. But, you might need a hill side for that. earlier, Shane Hecker, wrote: I'm planning to build a house in a few months. This question will likely invite some debate, which I think is good. If you wanted to build a house as energy efficient as possible, without breaking the bank, how would you do it? To make things simpler (or perhaps more difficult), there is a $8 budget for building. Shane John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
Don't know about an earth home. I'd assume the lower the moisture the better, and that's with any house. Shane - Original Message - From: contac...@kevindoucet.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 7:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house Same question for an earth home. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 5:07 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house The research tells me adobe is not good in humid climates. Shane - Original Message - From: kevindoucet.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:17 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house is there any concern with humidity or moister with this sort of structure? - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 6:41 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I'm in south texas. There are no hills to speak of. I heard of someone building an adobe house in this area, but have no idea how well it would stand to a category 5 hurricane. Shane - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 5:56 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house Build an earth home. But, you might need a hill side for that. earlier, Shane Hecker, wrote: I'm planning to build a house in a few months. This question will likely invite some debate, which I think is good. If you wanted to build a house as energy efficient as possible, without breaking the bank, how would you do it? To make things simpler (or perhaps more difficult), there is a $8 budget for building. Shane John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] building a house
I'm planning to build a house in a few months. This question will likely invite some debate, which I think is good. If you wanted to build a house as energy efficient as possible, without breaking the bank, how would you do it? To make things simpler (or perhaps more difficult), there is a $8 budget for building. Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
I'm in south texas. There are no hills to speak of. I heard of someone building an adobe house in this area, but have no idea how well it would stand to a category 5 hurricane. Shane - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 5:56 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house Build an earth home. But, you might need a hill side for that. earlier, Shane Hecker, wrote: I'm planning to build a house in a few months. This question will likely invite some debate, which I think is good. If you wanted to build a house as energy efficient as possible, without breaking the bank, how would you do it? To make things simpler (or perhaps more difficult), there is a $8 budget for building. Shane John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
Most of it. I'd be willing to let someone else do the exterior, but I want to do the interior stuff. Shane - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 7:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house will you be doing the work yourself? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
I thought about building the exterior wals with a combination of nail base and concrete, but this may be overkill. For those that don't know what I'm talking about, nail base is a structural insulated panel that does not have a skin on one side. Rather, it has the skin, then foam. You could almost say it would be similar to taking a piece of plywood and spraying it with about 4 inches of foam on one side. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 7:43 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house the budget is not relevant without knowing the size or sophistication of the fixtures and fittings. Beyond that there are a huge number of things to consider. In south Texas it is cooling which will be the big cost. you want to start with orientation of the building to things like the sun. You want to consider things like the roof overhang to minimize summer solar gains but permit winter solar gains. You might like to consider something like adobe but more waterproof so heavy rains won't wash it away, maybe really thick concrete walls with the inside well foam insulated or even stone construction. Stone can probably be had fairly cheaply if you don't have to quarry it. Then other passive design features like a very light coloured roof to reflect heat. Finally, I expect I would investigate geothermal energy recovery. If you have ground water or a stream or water course near by this could be relatively inexpensive to install but even traditional geothermal, although expensive to install will ultimately allow comfort and much reduced operating costs and those will diminish as fuel continues to rise in price and it will continue to rise in price. If you get any amount of winter sun then the mass of a heavy masonry structure will help store what heat you can accumulate. A good air tight foam insulation will help you retain both that heat and the cool. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 6:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I'm planning to build a house in a few months. This question will likely invite some debate, which I think is good. If you wanted to build a house as energy efficient as possible, without breaking the bank, how would you do it? To make things simpler (or perhaps more difficult), there is a $8 budget for building. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house
Aransas Pass is where I'm building. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 8:23 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house First you must decide what properties you want the exterior to have then find the materials which provide those properties. It sounds to me like you are allowing your imagination to be captured by some or other idea or material and then adjusting your thinking to the method or material. Determine your specifications then find the methods and materials which will meet them. You will succeed much better that way. Can you more accurately locate yourself in south Texas? - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 8:58 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I thought about building the exterior wals with a combination of nail base and concrete, but this may be overkill. For those that don't know what I'm talking about, nail base is a structural insulated panel that does not have a skin on one side. Rather, it has the skin, then foam. You could almost say it would be similar to taking a piece of plywood and spraying it with about 4 inches of foam on one side. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 7:43 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house the budget is not relevant without knowing the size or sophistication of the fixtures and fittings. Beyond that there are a huge number of things to consider. In south Texas it is cooling which will be the big cost. you want to start with orientation of the building to things like the sun. You want to consider things like the roof overhang to minimize summer solar gains but permit winter solar gains. You might like to consider something like adobe but more waterproof so heavy rains won't wash it away, maybe really thick concrete walls with the inside well foam insulated or even stone construction. Stone can probably be had fairly cheaply if you don't have to quarry it. Then other passive design features like a very light coloured roof to reflect heat. Finally, I expect I would investigate geothermal energy recovery. If you have ground water or a stream or water course near by this could be relatively inexpensive to install but even traditional geothermal, although expensive to install will ultimately allow comfort and much reduced operating costs and those will diminish as fuel continues to rise in price and it will continue to rise in price. If you get any amount of winter sun then the mass of a heavy masonry structure will help store what heat you can accumulate. A good air tight foam insulation will help you retain both that heat and the cool. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 6:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] building a house I'm planning to build a house in a few months. This question will likely invite some debate, which I think is good. If you wanted to build a house as energy efficient as possible, without breaking the bank, how would you do it? To make things simpler (or perhaps more difficult), there is a $8 budget for building. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats
Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat says the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine started saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced yet. And it still works. Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats
Just curious, is there a way to reset that so it doesn't keep saying it's low when it's likely not? Also, it says something to the effect of your system has run the recommended number of hours before requiring service. How do you reset that? Shane - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:58 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats Those batteries seem to last for years and years, but after two or three years, they might need replacing. I can't recall when I replaced mine to be honest. grin On Aug 8, 2009, at 7:27 PM, Shane Hecker wrote: Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat says the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine started saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced yet. And it still works. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats
Tried that with fully charged rechargables, and it did the same thing. Smile. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:34 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats Maybe if you actually put new batteries in it the message will go away? Novel idea I know. - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:22 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats What can a person say, but keep a spare on hand. smile - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 19:27 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] speaking of thermostats Has anyone has this problem with the thermostats from talkingthermostats.com? According to the manual, when the thermostat says the battery is low, it needs to be replaced within 2 weeks. Mine started saying this in November 2008 and the battery has not been replaced yet. And it still works. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How small a nail will a palm nailer drive
I've got one that will drive from 3d to 60d nails. I don't know what those numbers mean though. I can tell you my unit came with an attachment for finishing nails. And if I'm not mistaken, those are pretty small. Shane - Original Message - From: Agent86b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 10:26 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How small a nail will a palm nailer drive Hi all, the subject line says it all. I am interested to know what is the smallest nail a Palm Nailer will drive. Thanks as always for any advice. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How small a nail will a palm nailer drive
I don't know if there is a 18 volt model. The only battery powered nailer I've seen is the auto hammer from Sears. That costs about $100. Shane - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 12:26 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] How small a nail will a palm nailer drive Do they sell any 18 volt battery nailers say in the Ryobi line? Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 11:08 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How small a nail will a palm nailer drive I've got one that will drive from 3d to 60d nails. I don't know what those numbers mean though. I can tell you my unit came with an attachment for finishing nails. And if I'm not mistaken, those are pretty small. Shane - Original Message - From: Agent86b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 10:26 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How small a nail will a palm nailer drive Hi all, the subject line says it all. I am interested to know what is the smallest nail a Palm Nailer will drive. Thanks as always for any advice. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How small a nail will a palm nailer drive
Harbor Freight has a compact palm nailer. I think it's around $40 or so. You have to have a compresser to make it work. Shane - Original Message - From: Tony To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 9:23 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] How small a nail will a palm nailer drive I don't know the answer to this question but there is a mini palm nailer available at a fairly low price. Tony -Original Message- From: Agent86b [mailto:agent_0...@internode.on.net] Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 10:26 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How small a nail will a palm nailer drive Hi all, the subject line says it all. I am interested to know what is the smallest nail a Palm Nailer will drive. Thanks as always for any advice. Max. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric water heater
Take the screws off those 2 panels. There are thermostats behind both of them. Might need to adjust them with a screw driver, but be careful as there is 220 volts going through there. You will get a wake up call if you get your fingers in the wrong place. Shane - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:35 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electric water heater Okay, my new house has an electric water heater. How do you turn the temp down. The water is extremely hot. I do not find any adjustment like on a gas/lp water heater. There are two panels, one at the top, and one at the bottom of the tank that have 2 screws holding them on. Is the temp adjustment under one or both of those. First time ever having an electric water heater. Michael [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question
It will be in Aransas Pass, Texas. Shane - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 11:16 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question Shane, do you know of others in your area who have built such a house? Perhaps a call to those who wil mix and deliver your concrete would be a good idea, for instance of how much weight is involved with each wall and might they suggestet a thicker or wider footing and how to tie the walls in with the footings. a well planned project such as this, as you know will come out better. Good luck., oh, I forgot . where are you building this house? Lee On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 09:40:27PM -0500, Shane Hecker wrote: Has anyone built a concrete house using the insulated concrete forms? If so, how did it go? Is it what you expected as far as energy savings? Are there any problems to watch out for? I'm asking because I'm considering building a house in this way. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Shane -- Historical Slumming: The act of visiting locations such as diners, smokestack industrial sites, rural villages -- locations where time appears to have been frozen many years back -- so as to experience relief when one returns back to the present. -- Douglas Coupland, Generation X: Tales for an Accelerated Culture . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question
I don't know of anyone in this area who has built a house like this. Shane - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 11:16 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question Shane, do you know of others in your area who have built such a house? Perhaps a call to those who wil mix and deliver your concrete would be a good idea, for instance of how much weight is involved with each wall and might they suggestet a thicker or wider footing and how to tie the walls in with the footings. a well planned project such as this, as you know will come out better. Good luck., oh, I forgot . where are you building this house? Lee On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 09:40:27PM -0500, Shane Hecker wrote: Has anyone built a concrete house using the insulated concrete forms? If so, how did it go? Is it what you expected as far as energy savings? Are there any problems to watch out for? I'm asking because I'm considering building a house in this way. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Shane -- Historical Slumming: The act of visiting locations such as diners, smokestack industrial sites, rural villages -- locations where time appears to have been frozen many years back -- so as to experience relief when one returns back to the present. -- Douglas Coupland, Generation X: Tales for an Accelerated Culture . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question
Here's the short version. Energy efficiency. I've heard that a house built in this way can save an average of 50% on electric bills. I want an energy efficient home so that's why I'm looking at icf. I'm also looking at conventional construction with blow in insulation, preferably foam. Everything I've heard though suggests icf as being the way to go. Oh, did I mention icf homes can take 200+ mph winds? I do happen to live in a hurricane zone. Shane Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question I am curious to know why you want to use this sort of construction. The system works well for basement construction where much of the foam is well protected in the ground and you can form a good seal between the top and the floor decking but once you need to mount windows into it and seal a roof structure things begin to get more complicated. Nothing cannot be overcome of course and this is a similar problem with the insulated panel style of construction as well. There is a lot of construction that goes on, you need very good scaffold to carry workmen and pressurized cement hoses, they must be fastidious about filling all of the voids in the foam forms and a lot of work goes into installing all that rebar, wiring the joints, spacing it away from the edges and so on. There needs to be structure for installing windows and doors and it needs to be precise and not move during pouring. finally, how ever you choose to cover the building you are into screwing some sort of strapping into the plastic foam retainers. This is one thing on the inside of a basement wall but something very different on an exterior wall, not impossible of course but additional complication. I imagine it would be difficult to modify such a structure as well, put on an addition or alter a window. The system does allow pretty good insulation though. Again I am curious as to what interests you in that sort of construction. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 2:59 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question I don't know of anyone in this area who has built a house like this. Shane - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 11:16 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] building question Shane, do you know of others in your area who have built such a house? Perhaps a call to those who wil mix and deliver your concrete would be a good idea, for instance of how much weight is involved with each wall and might they suggestet a thicker or wider footing and how to tie the walls in with the footings. a well planned project such as this, as you know will come out better. Good luck., oh, I forgot . where are you building this house? Lee On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 09:40:27PM -0500, Shane Hecker wrote: Has anyone built a concrete house using the insulated concrete forms? If so, how did it go? Is it what you expected as far as energy savings? Are there any problems to watch out for? I'm asking because I'm considering building a house in this way. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Shane -- Historical Slumming: The act of visiting locations such as diners, smokestack industrial sites, rural villages -- locations where time appears to have been frozen many years back -- so as to experience relief when one returns back to the present. -- Douglas Coupland, Generation X: Tales for an Accelerated Culture . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] building question
Has anyone built a concrete house using the insulated concrete forms? If so, how did it go? Is it what you expected as far as energy savings? Are there any problems to watch out for? I'm asking because I'm considering building a house in this way. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] another building question
I'm still doing research into the different methods of building a house. Anyone here have an icf house? Icf stands for insulated concrete form. If so, what do you like or not like about it? Also, how much did it cost to build? When it was built, did you put up the forms yourself or have someone do it? Any info is appreciated. Thanks. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] sip question
I'm considering building a house using sips. Anyone have any ideas on how much you can expect to pay for those? Btw sip stands for structural insulated panel. Also, how strong are they? Any other information I should know pro or con? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] plumbing question
I've got a bathroom which has a sink and toilet. We're ading a shower and tub unit. What are the steps to install the drainage? The building is on a concrete slab, so I know concrete wil need to be broken up. How deep in the concrete does the p-trap need to be? Shane
[BlindHandyMan] palm nailer question
I recently got a palm nailer from harbor freight. Supposedly, it can handle 3d to 60d nailss (don't know what that means). But from what I've seen, it appears to be able to handle some big nails, up to 3 1/2 inches long. The question is will it pound a nail into concrete, assuming the nail is designed for this. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] thread cutting question
Is there an alternative to thread cutting oil that can be used for thread cutting? I know you can get thread cutting oil, but it can be somewhat expensive, especially if you go with the Rigid brand. There's a couple stores that sell thread cutting oil in my area, but they are not located close by. However, Heb and an auto parts store are within walking distance, so was hoping to find something I could get from one of those places. Thanks for any info. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] question
I posted this question on blind tech but didn't get a response. So I'm hoping someone here can help. Has anyone used the latest version of nero, currently 9.4? If so, how accessible is it with the latest version of Jaws? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] regulating air flow
Is there a way for a totally blind person to figure out how to use the air regulator on an air compresser? I know it's a dial you turn, but there is a gage which I assume tells you the air pressure being fed to a tool. So lets say a tool uses 75 to 100 psi. Can you tell when the air pressure is in that range? I'd assume if the tool works, then it's in the correct range. But I wouldn't want to damage the tool by providing too much pressure. Also, which way increases pressure, clockwise or counterclockwise? Thanks for any info. Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] flue (not the swine one) problem
I think so, but is that going to cause a problem? I thought the flue should go straight up or as close to that as possible. Shane - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 8:37 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] flue (not the swine one) problem Do you have room enough above the heater to put a couple of elbows in the flue. It doesn't have to be double wall as long as it is in free air. Ron - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 9:54 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] flue (not the swine one) problem Just recently installed a new gas water heater. I've got a flue going up through the roof. Problem is it doesn't line up with the water heater. The old water heater had no problems lining up because of an angled piece, but this new heater is about 5 inches bigger around. And it can't be moved or it would cause a problem with the gas valve. Also, the heater is on a stand which brings it 18 inches off the floor. Right now, we have a piece of the flue bracing the other pieces so they line up. Is there any flexible materials you can use for a flue? If not, any suggestions would be helpful as I really don't want to have that brace there forever. Thanks. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] flue (not the swine one) problem
Just recently installed a new gas water heater. I've got a flue going up through the roof. Problem is it doesn't line up with the water heater. The old water heater had no problems lining up because of an angled piece, but this new heater is about 5 inches bigger around. And it can't be moved or it would cause a problem with the gas valve. Also, the heater is on a stand which brings it 18 inches off the floor. Right now, we have a piece of the flue bracing the other pieces so they line up. Is there any flexible materials you can use for a flue? If not, any suggestions would be helpful as I really don't want to have that brace there forever. Thanks. Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] flue (not the swine one) problem
Yes, I think so. This flue is from the original water heater which is 25 years old. It's got a piece with 4 legs on it that fit into slots on the heater. At the top of the 4 leged piece is a smaller opening with what look like cross bars going through it. It goes into a pipe which makes a jog over to the pipe going up through the roof. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 10:01 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] flue (not the swine one) problem Hi, Is this the metallic aluminum sort which forms a sort of bell over the open center heat exchanger of the tank? If so, I have seen corrugated pipe which can be bent into gentle curves. You can buy most any standard style of fittings for that sort of flu pipe. I didn't think though that you could still purchase that sort of water heater anymore so it may well not be that type of pipe. . - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 10:54 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] flue (not the swine one) problem Just recently installed a new gas water heater. I've got a flue going up through the roof. Problem is it doesn't line up with the water heater. The old water heater had no problems lining up because of an angled piece, but this new heater is about 5 inches bigger around. And it can't be moved or it would cause a problem with the gas valve. Also, the heater is on a stand which brings it 18 inches off the floor. Right now, we have a piece of the flue bracing the other pieces so they line up. Is there any flexible materials you can use for a flue? If not, any suggestions would be helpful as I really don't want to have that brace there forever. Thanks. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] carpet cleaning question
I've never atempted this before, so please humor me. How hard is it for a totally blind person to shampoo a carpet? I can vacuum sure, but how much different is it fromvacuuming? I'm assuming it's much like mopping. I use a hard floor machine from Hoover to clean the hard floors, but this machine also can do carpets, hence the question. Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] ice maker problem
Lets go with the obvious. There is a lever on the ice maker that tells it when the bin under it is full. Is that lever in the down position? You may have already checked this, but sometimes it's the little things that are missed, so figured I'd ask. Also, what about the water line going to the ice maker? Is it by chance frozen? I've never seen a line do hat, but have heard it can happen. Shane - Original Message - From: rodger.hood To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 11:47 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ice maker problem I have a Siers side-by-side refrigerator and the ice maker has stopped making ice all of a sudden. How can this maker be removed and replaced? The water is still flowing through the door dispenser but no wateris in the ice maker tray and the motor is not moving. Any help is appreciated It is five years old and never a problem. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] soldering tools
This may seem like a dum question but what is the best tool for soldering pipes? I know that most people use a torch so which brand is the best and where do you get it? If there is an electric tool that will do this, again what brand and where do you get it? Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions
Don't know the answer to your question about the protective stuff, never heard of it. As far as to when a pipe is hot enough, I try and time it. Another good indicator I would think is when it starts smoking. Every time this happens, a buddy of mine says it's plenty hot. And the smell is pretty distinct. Shane - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 9:48 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions Shane, My worry with the paste method is that you havn't any good way to know that you've melted the solder with the pipe not with the flame. In electronics at any rate, that leads to cold joints which are weak and non-conductive. In plumbing I'd worry about weakness. Feeling the solder get melted by contact with the pipe is critical to know the pipe is actually up to temperature. I believe Dale describes actually removing the flame before applying solder. That way you really know the pipe is hot enough. but if it works, I ain't gonna send out the soldering cops! GRIN As for the acid, I bet it's nasty. Would this be a use for that goop you can put on hands as a protective instead of gloves? You wouldn't want to use plastic gloves for fear of melting them onto your hands. OUCH! Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions
When it comes to soldering, I prefer to use the paste. There is a product from Lowes that I get and it cuts out the solder, because it's already got it in it, along with the flux. You clean the pipe, apply this stuff which comes in a 12 or 14cc syringe (don't remember the size at the moment), heat with the torch, then let it cool and it's done. It's about $3.50 for it, but it is much easier to work with. I've used the flux and fed solder, but I've only done it once. And I found out that flux and me don't get along too well. It's the acid coming in contact with skin thing. The main question was about how you get the flame where it's supposed to be and that has been answered. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 8:46 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions Hello Shane, It takes practice. There are a few ways that I use. 1) gently advance the tip of the torch to the pipe and use it to feel your way to the seam of the joint then withdraw it an inch or so. Take care, it will sometimes put the flame out. As you withdraw the torch you should hear a slight deepening of the sound when the hot point of the flame is about on the pipe. Of course if possible you want that right on the junction but close will do. You should also wash the flame over the area and actually around the joint to insure even heating. 2) You might take a length of thin tube or steel long enough to use as a probe in the other hand so you can feel the end of the torch and the seam of the joint. This can be pretty tricky and you don't want to be robbing too much heat from the joint. The rod or tube will get hot pretty quickly as well, one advantage to thin tube is that it won't absorb heat so well and it cools more quickly. Again you should be able to hear a change in the sound of the flame as it centers on the work, use that. It can be very helpful if you can arrange things so that the arm operating the torch can be supported or braced against something to help refine your control and relative positioning of the torch.This can also be helpful for the arm controlling the solder as well, can make locating the seam with the solder more efficient and quick. When the pipe is hot enough to melt the solder it doesn't stay that way very long. Hope this helps. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 9:32 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions When it comes to soldering, how do you know when you have the flame on the right place? It's not that I can't solder. The problem I have is keeping the flame on the spot where I want it, or I'll completely miss the spot entirely. Not talking about wires here, we're talking copper pipes. Shane -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.24.0/1460 - Release Date: 5/22/2008 7:06 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] soldering questions
When it comes to soldering, how do you know when you have the flame on the right place? It's not that I can't solder. The problem I have is keeping the flame on the spot where I want it, or I'll completely miss the spot entirely. Not talking about wires here, we're talking copper pipes. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] gas question
Now that I've got a gas leak fixed how often should I check it to make sure it doesn't return? I don't remember if I asked this question before, but is there a product that you can use that will create bubbles you can feel? I ask because the city (when they came out) used a soap that created bubbles but they couldn't be felt. But they appeared to be using a very thin soap. Thanks. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] gas hell yes I got gass (conclusion)
Well looks like I got the problem fixed. I didn't have to dig as far as I thought since the pipe was in good condition. I initially wanted to replace the pipe from the meter all the way down to the 90 but a friend told me it wasn't necessary to do this. When all was said and done, 30 inches of pipe was replaced. Now for some questions. What is the difference between the types of coupling that are used? My friend told me I had an api (a p I) coupling. Then another friend told me the coupling I was trying to use is a merchant coupling. I thought a coupling is a coupling, didn't know there were several types. Second, I've heard from several people who say do *not* use galvanized pipe for gas, but I've heard from just as many saying they use it all the time with no problems. The gas technician who originally came out says that the code says you can use galvanized. So what's the story on this? Third, for future reference are there any tips you have for digging? My parents lent me a shovel and it got the job done, but it was extremely slow. Felt like I was digging through concrete, not dirt. It's only a matter of time before I'll have to dig again (sewer lines this time). It's just a matter of when (hopefully no time soon). Shane
[BlindHandyMan] gas hell yes I got gas
In the back yard that is. Lets put it this way. When a totally blind person can see the gas leak, it's time to fix it. This one is about a half inch to an inch above the ground (on my side of course). Have no idea how long it's been leaking like that. Anyway, it was the gas technician from the city who came out and helped me find it. So here's what I want to do for the repair, but first some other information. I don't know who ran this line, but here's what they did. They have the standard 90 coming off the meter. The pipe goes down into the ground which is standard. But where the leak is and where the pipe broke off (after the gas technician tried getting it out) there is a coupling. That coupling is what came apart. Then, there is the piece on the other side which goes into the ground. My question is why wasn't a piece of pipe run all the way down? Why put the coupling there? For now, the technician put a rag on top of the pipe to keep moisture out of it. I should say stuffed then laid the rest on top. I plan to take that coupling and the remaining piece of pipe off. Ain't digging fun? Then, it's time for a trip to home depot for a measurement. Or, I could just cut the pipe (black pipe that is) myself. I've got the cutter to do it with along with a talking tape measure so it shouldn't be too bad. Threading isn't a problem either. The pipe is 1 inch. Then I plan to coat the pipe threads with plenty of the pipe dope. Then comes reassembly. Finally, a call to the city will be in order for them to come inspect it and hopefully turn the gas back on. One other thing, the gas technician tells me that if I'm replacing 5 feet or less I don't need a permit to do it, so lets hope it's less than 5 feet. Now for some questions. Is there anything I should be aware of when digging along the pipe? Is there anything else I might have missed? Any input is appreciated. Oh, and in case someone asks why don't you have a licensed plumber do it?, my answer is I don't want to pay a rediculous price for them to do it when I could do it myself for a fraction of that price. Shane
Re: AVG free or not (aka Re: [BlindHandyMan] this is really off topic
This is to the original poster of the message concerning AVG. I don't have the email address because the message is already deleted, which means this is the only way I know how to reach them. I did some research and there is nothing on avg's web site to suggest they are going to make it no longer free. Heck they just released avg free 8, so why would they change that policy after only 1 month of it being out? If you can provide proof, write me off list as I would be interested. Otherwise, do diligent research before posting this type of message as many of these are nothing more than hoaxes. And if you do post, might want to clear it with the moderator first (which I am not). Now to the moderator. I felt the need to reply to this message, but in the future, I won't do this if you tell me not to do so. Shane - Original Message - From: David Ferrin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 4:52 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] this is really off topic Interesting information, but subject lines like this really annoy me. David Ferrin www.jaws-users.com - Original Message - From: bruce [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 5:03 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] this is really off topic Hi group: I want you all to know that as of the end of May the avg free antivirus will not be supported any more. We must pay of you still want to use avg. Does anybody know of another free virus program that works tithes wineyes? Sorry but I figured this was important. Bruce -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.6/1404 - Release Date: 4/29/2008 6:27 PM To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.7/1408 - Release Date: 4/30/2008 6:10 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] I am back and have a sewer line problem.
I know not too many people like these folks, but if you are cheap Harbor Freight sells a sewer line camera. I don't know about its quality but for a one time job, it should work. I have a pipe threading set from them along with pipe cutters. I can't tell you how many times I had to take the threader set back to get parts replaced, but now all the dies work perfectly, which is all I care about. And for $49 you can't beat it. You'll be paying twice that for 1 Rigid die. Shane - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 9:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I am back and have a sewer line problem. Rodo rooter or however they spell it has that camera. Or if you want to buy one yourself Ridgid sells a good one. You could get a plumber to fix the problem for less but you'll be the only one on the block with a sewer camera... - Original Message - From: rs_denis To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 2:46 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I am back and have a sewer line problem. Seems I remember a plumber with a camera gizmo that ran into the sewer line and would find the block and indicate where the thing was when it found it. Can't remember what it was called or whether it was a national plumbing company or a local one that talked about this device. Might call around and see if anyone knows what I'm talking about. (I rarely do.) RD - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 1:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I am back and have a sewer line problem. Hey Guys, Please do not take this badly, :) but I am back because of a desperate problem that I know you all can help me with. Even if that help is have a drink and call the plumber. :) I noticed some new names in the digest, so I will take just a moment to introduce myself and then get right to my sewer problem. I am Jennifer and I live in Oklahoma with my three young sons and my husband. I am not very handy, but have learned so much from this list in the past and gained a lot of confidence about what I can do myself. Ok, here we go with the sewer line. I have a partial block. Enough of a block that my washing machine and dishwasher back up and send water over flowing out of the half bath there by the laundry room. As you can imagine this does not make me very happy, though my floors are looking extra clean these days from the bleach water and other detergents. :) We tried some nasty chemicals and the snake on the line and no luck. It turns out that we do not have a ground level clean out for the plumbers to use so our home warranty is not going to cover this either. So now we are trying to install the ground level clean out, but we can not find the sewer line. We have a clean out just outside the kitchen sink on the wall of the house and the plumber said that most likely our sewer line will run straight out from there. There is about ten feet of concrete between the house and the yard though and we have been told that may mean it is as much as four to six feet deep that far out. We had the electric and what not lines marked and have a pretty narrow window to dig in to find this stupid line. We are now just over four and a half feet down and into hard packed clay. Should we try widening the trench before we go deeper? Any other tips or suggestions? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.7/1408 - Release Date: 4/30/2008 6:10 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] dish washer not cleaning
What brand did you go with? Just curious. Shane - Original Message - From: lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 6:39 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dish washer not cleaning I ordered one about 30 minutes ago. I hate to say this but I am having them install it. I did install the last one and it was not hard. They are charging me $39 to deliver, install and carry away the old one. That offer is too good to pass up. Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ It is motivational, educational, humorous and has a lot of resources. - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 4:37 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] dish washer not cleaning Lenny My wife and I had one less than 5 years old doing the same thing. We had the extended warranty and the service man here several times. He even consulted with the factory reps and replaced several different parts etc all to no avail. We ended up getting it replaced under warranty. If I were you I'd simply get another machine Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of lenny McHugh Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 1:05 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] dish washer not cleaning Hi All, I have a 1995 Maytag dish washer that is not cleaning. During the last rinse cycle small particles of food are left coating all of the dishes, glasses etc. I did run some white vinegar and it really did not help. I called Maytag and I was instructed how to remove and clean the filter. The filter was clean. I am starting to look for a new machine I am not putting any money into a 13 year old machine especially since Maytag support told me that the life expectancy is 12 years. I think I will run some more vinegar for a few cycles. Any other suggestions? Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ It is motivational, educational, humorous and has a lot of resources. To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links __ NOD32 3067 (20080430) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL
Re: [BlindHandyMan] gas hell yes I got gas
Interesting because I saw how they actually take out the meter. There are 2 bolts (well they look like bolts) that connect the meter to both my side and the city side. I don't know if unions come in different shapes, because maybe that's what this is. It had the threads on it, and where the meter and bolt joined, there is a gasket along with some old pipe dope. The meter is basically suspended between the 2 pipes. You take the bolts (or unions perhaps) off and off comes the meter. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 11:19 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gas hell yes I got gas It may be, from your description that the couple is there so the meter can be changed out. They do that from time-to-time to calibrate the meter. They just changed mine in March. Don't know why they would do that in several feet of snow but I got a call to remove the snow so they could switch my meter out for a new one. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 11:11 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gas hell yes I got gas In the back yard that is. Lets put it this way. When a totally blind person can see the gas leak, it's time to fix it. This one is about a half inch to an inch above the ground (on my side of course). Have no idea how long it's been leaking like that. Anyway, it was the gas technician from the city who came out and helped me find it. So here's what I want to do for the repair, but first some other information. I don't know who ran this line, but here's what they did. They have the standard 90 coming off the meter. The pipe goes down into the ground which is standard. But where the leak is and where the pipe broke off (after the gas technician tried getting it out) there is a coupling. That coupling is what came apart. Then, there is the piece on the other side which goes into the ground. My question is why wasn't a piece of pipe run all the way down? Why put the coupling there? For now, the technician put a rag on top of the pipe to keep moisture out of it. I should say stuffed then laid the rest on top. I plan to take that coupling and the remaining piece of pipe off. Ain't digging fun? Then, it's time for a trip to home depot for a measurement. Or, I could just cut the pipe (black pipe that is) myself. I've got the cutter to do it with along with a talking tape measure so it shouldn't be too bad. Threading isn't a problem either. The pipe is 1 inch. Then I plan to coat the pipe threads with plenty of the pipe dope. Then comes reassembly. Finally, a call to the city will be in order for them to come inspect it and hopefully turn the gas back on. One other thing, the gas technician tells me that if I'm replacing 5 feet or less I don't need a permit to do it, so lets hope it's less than 5 feet. Now for some questions. Is there anything I should be aware of when digging along the pipe? Is there anything else I might have missed? Any input is appreciated. Oh, and in case someone asks why don't you have a licensed plumber do it?, my answer is I don't want to pay a rediculous price for them to do it when I could do it myself for a fraction of that price. Shane -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.7/1408 - Release Date: 4/30/2008 6:10 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.7/1408 - Release Date: 4/30/2008 6:10 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber?
Which is why black pipe is a good idea. I don't know if you can get away with plastic. I can't imagine that working too well as it would melt in a fire. Now what I can't figure out is why plumbers in this area use galvanized pipe for gas. It is my understanding that the gas will eat the galvanizing away, create an acid in the process, and corrode the pipe. Not to mention it will send particles down stream and clog up appliances and whatever else is connected to the line. And don't plumbers look at the line and assume galvanized line is for water/air? If that's the case, they could be in for a trip to the moon, along with the city block they are in. Shane - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 6:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? It doesn't - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 18:23 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? Where do you live? I ask because here in the United States, I can't believe that soldering any gas line would pass code. - Original Message - From: martin webster To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 15:52 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? Hi, The most accurate way of testing for leaks is with a water or digital manometer. At the gas meter and within a gas appliance there are small brass plugs which you use for perging the pipe work and appliance of gas. These are all so used to run pressure tests. you would undo one of these and attach your manometer and repressurize the line. Once the line or appliance is at it's required working pressure, *usually milly bars) you would then shut off the gas and watch for pressure drop. if there is a leak even a minnute leak, you will see the water drop down the scale on the manometer. My sighted girl friend checks the manometer for me. There are all so really good gas leak testers which are hand held and audible, and there's all so your nose. I have both manometer and gas leak tester which I can use to go round any joins I have soldered. Of course I have a nose too, but the manometer and tester are much more accurate, the tester being able to detect as litttle as 30 parts gas per one million parts of air which is the industry standard, the tester is of course variable and the manometer being able to measure pressure in milly bars, so both pieces of iquipment used in conjunction with one another is the way a gas fitter would do this. The manometer for testing a whole line or appliance, and the tester for finding any leaks. Tip, when replacing the brass test plugs use a little gas ceal. This is like a grease which gas fitters use, and it's all so good for insuring a good ceal on the rubber hose that attaches the manometer to the line you are testing. The test that Cy speaks about is known as the old match test and indeed is a reliable way of testing for small leaks, the danger with this test is you may get a build up of gas, and you can have a flash I do know of people who still use it though. The flash point for gas or a build up of gas in any given size room is five percent. Hope this helps. Martin Webster. From the UK. --- On Sat, 4/26/08, Cy Selfridge [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Cy Selfridge [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, April 26, 2008, 6:59 PM David, Now, I know you are going to think that I am a liar - but - one of the local plumbers tests for leaks by lighting a rolled newspaper and passes it around the new connection. The first time I saw him do this I was headed for some other place to be! I suppose that so long as there was not a build up of gas this is probably safe but, no thanks folks. The soap you spoke of is something like Dawn dishwashing soap. It will do a great job of bubbling up if there is a leak. Cy, the Ancient Okie _ From: blindhandyman@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:blindhandyman@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of David Ferrin Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 7:12 AM To: blindhandyman@ yahoogroups. com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? How do you test for a gas leak my friend? I've watch plumbers rub soap on the connections and look for bubbles. David Ferrin www.jaws-users. -com - Original Message - From: martin webster HYPERLINK mailto:webstermart in%40yahoo. comwebstermarti [EMAIL PROTECTED] com To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandym an%40yahoogroups .comblindhandym [EMAIL PROTECTED] -com Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 6:59 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? Hi, I think the answer to this question is yes and
[BlindHandyMan] are you sure you want to be a plumber?
The answer is possibly, but further research is in order. First, what I know. Plumbers have the fun task of connecting water, sewer, and gas to residential and commercial property. They are also the ones who get called when there is a problem with any of them. It's a dirty job especially when dealing with a sewer clog. You never know what you'll pull out of a sewer line, but most of it you don't want to touch. If you like snakes, spiders, ants, and anything else that could be under a house or in an attic, you'll be right at home. It might be helpful to be extremely flexible at times since you will likely have to squeeze into impossible positions to get some problems fixed. Oh, did I mention walking on rafters? Might have to do that too, so better not be afraid of hights. Being able to solder is a must. Oh, and to do all this legally, you'd better have a license. Now, for the questions: I've heard there is a lot more than what I've listed when it comes to being a plumber. One person told me it takes 6 years and all that time you'll be working at minimum wage. Another training facility says they have a 4 year program, so which is accurate? In doing the research, I'm assuming it would be helpful if you could go to a job site and watch a plumber work. This might be doable, but as soon as blind comes up, they go You might get hurt, you're not on our insurance, you could be a liability, you need to be able to see to do this work. What can be done in this situation? And perhaps the most important question is can a totally blind person (that would be me) do plumbing successfully? Thanks for any info. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] lets not stain the clothes
Well, unfortunately it's already too late for that because I've got stains on some of my clothes. Oil stains that is. Now being a total it's a little difficult to tell where those stains are, which obviously leads to the question. How do you get them out? Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] lets not stain the clothes
Perhaps in the future, but that takes time. I'm not too worried about it, but momma is. She's good at getting the stains out, but I'd like to be able to do it myself. Shane - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 3:20 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lets not stain the clothes Shane asked: Well, unfortunately it's already too late for that because I've got stains on some of my clothes. Oil stains that is. Now being a total it's a little difficult to tell where those stains are, which obviously leads to the question. How do you get them out? Simple. Get a sighted wife. Did I say that outloud? No one tell my wife. Please! -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.3/1392 - Release Date: 4/22/2008 3:51 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] uses for j-b weld
Has anyone used J-B Weld as a substitute for solder? In particular, I'm interested in the water weld product. If so, any problems? Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] oils
These are being done by hand. Cutting new threads. Shane - Original Message - From: Larry Stansifer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 2:20 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] oils Chain, Are you cutting threads by hand or on a lathe? Are you cutting new threads or are you repairing some past sins? Generally any good quality light viscosity oil will do the job unless you are removing a lot of material and dealing with a lot of heat and friction. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Shane Hecker Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 8:21 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] oils I know that some posts about different types of oil, in particular motor oil, have been posted. My question is what's the difference between an oil that says it's for thread cutting and an oil, say for a chain saw blade and bar? I ask because thread cutting oil is not readily available where I'm at (or at least I don't think it is). I did see some at 1 place, but they wanted $60 or so for a gallon. I don't want to pay that much, so I thought oil for a chain saw blade and bar would work as a substitute, plus it's $7 or so for a gallon at OReilly Auto Parts. Shane To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS -- Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 161561592) is spam: Spam: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=161561592m=5c2a916ef1f6c=s Not spam: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=161561592m=5c2a916ef1f6c=n Forget vote: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=161561592m=5c2a916ef1f6c=f -- END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.6/1315 - Release Date: 3/6/2008 9:07 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] oils
Can't say I've heard of ATF. Is that an oil or something else? Where do you get it? Shane - Original Message - From: Larry Stansifer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 7:25 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] oils And if you are a serious, card carrying, hard core cheep-skate you can use ATF. A quart bottle will probably last a lifetime. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 3:43 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] oils Usually thread cutting oil is designed to be used on a machine that spins the tap or dye. That will get considerably hotter than cutting threads by hand. Bar oil for a chain saw is very thick so it can cling to the bar and chain. I wouldn't recommend it for thread cutting either because clean up will be a pain. Save your money and use WD40. It has lubricating properties, is light weight like you need and it will help to float the chips out easier. A good dousing before you start and a couple good sprays during the run and that's all you need. Pick you up a couple cans of Brake Cleaner at that auto parts store and you can use that to clean up with when you're finished and you'll be a happy camper. That's assuming you don't have to buy the tools to cut threads with... - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 10:21 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] oils I know that some posts about different types of oil, in particular motor oil, have been posted. My question is what's the difference between an oil that says it's for thread cutting and an oil, say for a chain saw blade and bar? I ask because thread cutting oil is not readily available where I'm at (or at least I don't think it is). I did see some at 1 place, but they wanted $60 or so for a gallon. I don't want to pay that much, so I thought oil for a chain saw blade and bar would work as a substitute, plus it's $7 or so for a gallon at OReilly Auto Parts. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS -- Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 161613100) is spam: Spam: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=161613100m=879a39314234c=s Not spam: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=161613100m=879a39314234c=n Forget vote: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=161613100m=879a39314234c=f -- END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.6/1315 - Release Date: 3/6/2008 9:07 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] oils
I know that some posts about different types of oil, in particular motor oil, have been posted. My question is what's the difference between an oil that says it's for thread cutting and an oil, say for a chain saw blade and bar? I ask because thread cutting oil is not readily available where I'm at (or at least I don't think it is). I did see some at 1 place, but they wanted $60 or so for a gallon. I don't want to pay that much, so I thought oil for a chain saw blade and bar would work as a substitute, plus it's $7 or so for a gallon at OReilly Auto Parts. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] question about fittings
I've heard of something called integral solder fittings (the solder is built into the fitting). Where can you get them? Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hear It Coming, Before It Knocks You Over.
Speaking of roads and strange intersections, there are 2 that come to mind in my town. One is called 5 points and the other is 6 points. You can probably figure out why these intersections have these names. And they are a bear to cross. You can get around them, but I tried crossing 6 points once. Hopefully not again. Shane - Original Message - From: David Sexton To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 9:13 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hear It Coming, Before It Knocks You Over. There are many of these electric cars here in Madison. There are also many streets that have odd intersections that come together at very odd angles. Sometimes 5 streets come together at once. There are also roads with stop signs as there are everywhere. When there is a stop sign and no parallel traffic and an electric car is going or waiting at the stop sign I certainly can't hear it. There have been many times when if I were using my cane and not my dog I would have been squashed. David adi- Original Message - From: Trouble To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 9:03 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hear It Coming, Before It Knocks You Over. you would think they could find a issue that is more forth coming then a handful of cars. When I see or hear more of them on the road then mini vans. i will take notice, but for now i just go with traffic like everyone else. A bigger issue is identification of money, witch they stepped away from, Better transportation within town and cities, and more education for the public that thinks helpless still spells blind. New name for NFB, Not For the Blind! At 09:56 PM 2/19/2008, you wrote: Sure hope the NFB leadership don't get a donation from these folks. RJ - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 21:37 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Hear It Coming, Before It Knocks You Over. Members of the National Federation of the Blind (NFB) will testify before the Senate Judicial Proceedings Committee regarding the extreme danger silent hybrid cars pose to the blind, as well as other pedestrians, cyclists, and small children. Date: February 19, 2008 Time: 1:00 p.m. Location: Miller Senate Office Building, Room 2 East Annapolis, Maryland 21401 When compared to vehicles using traditional combustion engines, hybrid vehicles are virtually silent when accelerating and decelerating, making it impossible for blind individuals to detect their presence. To address this problem, Senator Norman Stone has introduced Senate Bill 276. If passed, the bill will establish a task force to make recommendations regarding a minimum sound standard for all new vehicles sold and licensed in Maryland. About the National Federation of the Blind With more than 50,000 members, the National Federation of the Blind is the largest and most influential membership organization of blind people in the United States. The NFB improves blind people's lives through advocacy, education, research, technology, and programs encouraging independence and self-confidence. It is the leading force in the blindness field today and the voice of the nation's blind. In January 2004 the NFB opened the National Federation of the Blind Jernigan Institute, the first research and training center in the United States for the blind led by the blind. National Federation of the Blind ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Tim trouble Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance. --Sam Brown Blindeudora list owner. To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1290 -
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Choose a Cordless Drill for Woodworking
You probably already know this but thought I'd bring it up since it wasn't mentioned. When it comes to batteries, there are several chemistries they use. They are Ni-cad, Nimh, and Lithium ion. It is my understanding Ni-cad batteries are still used on most tools. However, they can be a problem, especially if you don't maintain them correctly. If you charge them without running them down completely, they will develop a memory. That translates to the battery will not discharge all the way. Example, you take the battery to 50% capacity. You then charge it. Now, you will only get 50% of the battery capacity before the battery dies. This may not happen immediately, but over time if the pattern continues, it will. Also, Ni-cad batteries will loose their charge when not in use. So if you are like me and don't use your tools for a couple months, you should plan on charging the battery when you do need them. Finally, Ni-cad batteries are the heaviest. Nimh batteries are better in that they are not supposed to develop a memory. They do loose their charge over time, though and are also sensitive to overcharging. You will need a charger that is designed for these types of batteries. Don't use a charger designed for Ni-cad batteries to charge a Nimh battery or you could run into problems. Lithium ion batteries are the lightest and best when it comes down to it, but they are more expensive. They don't have the memory problems of Ni-cad. They will not loose their charge as fast as Ni-cad or Nimh. It is my understanding they can go for months on end in storage and have close to a full charge. A Lithium ion is smaller but can have more power than the Nimh or Ni-cad equivalents. I personally have Rigid tools and recently got a compact cordless drill which came with 2 Lithium ion batteries. These batteries are 3 mah. The batteries that came with the original tool kit are 2.5 mah, over twice as big, and more than twice as heavy. Another advantage to Lithium ion is that you will get full power up till the last drop of energy is used, which can't be said for Nimh or Ni-cad batteries. Again, make sure the charger you use will charge Lithium ion batteries. It is my understanding these batteries can be particularly nasty if you use the wrong charger. Speaking of chargers, the ultimate would be one that could do all types of batteries mentioned here. Assuming such a charger exists, and assuming it is available for your tools, this would be something worth looking into. Shane - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 11:43 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How to Choose a Cordless Drill for Woodworking With advances in technology in recent years, cordless drills are a popular and viable choice for nearly all hand held drilling tasks on almost any woodworking project. Cordless drills come in various sizes and with a number of different features. What features should you look for when buying a cordless drill? Begin With the Battery: When looking for a cordless drill to meet your woodworking needs, the first thing to consider is the battery. Cordless drills are presently available in voltages from 9.6 volts all the way up to 24 volts. The advantage of a more powerful battery translates to additional torque for driving long screws into stronger hardwoods. It also likely means longer battery life per charge. However, these stronger batteries also mean a considerably heavier drill. A 24-volt cordless drill is much heavier than a 12-volt cordless drill, and considerably heavier than a corded power drill. Mandatory Features: Any cordless drill that you should consider for your woodworking projects should have a number of basic features. These include a reversible motor that will allow you to back out any screws that you drill in, a dual-speed motor (with a high and low switch) and an adjustable clutch, that, when adjusted properly, will help keep you from driving screws too deeply into your wood stock. Additional Features to Consider: Many cordless drills use a 3/8 chuck to hold your bits. However, some larger models have a 1/2 chuck that will allow one to use drill bits of up to 1/2 in diameter. These 1/2 models often include a hammer drill feature which has little practical application for woodworking, but is great for drilling holes in masonry. Many recent cordless drill models employ a smart charger that will help extend battery life by optimizing the way the batteries are charged. On these chargers, when the battery is approaching a full charge, the charger switches to a trickle-charge mode until the battery is maxed. Many models will also include two batteries with the drill and charger, which, while it is not a requirement, is certainly a good idea. With two batteries, you can be using one and charging the other at
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Receiver settings?
I don't listen to the radio much but you can sometimes see this simply from switching from channel to channel. I have a digital cable box which has a digital out for audio as well as the standard outputs. If you switch to a digital channel, it is much louder. I don't know of any way to correct this problem either. Shane - Original Message - From: Roger Bachelder To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:30 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Receiver settings? Hi Guys, I have a home Sony receiver, and when i switch from TV to radio, the radio is much louder then the TV. Is this a common issue with receivers? Or is there a way to resolve this issue? Any thoughts anyone? Take care Yawl, Roger C Bachelder 3rd [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.18/1254 - Release Date: 1/31/2008 8:30 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] exercise bikes
I haven't seen this brought up on the list before. Does anyone use an exercise bike and if so, which ones do you like the best? I'm interested in the recumbant bikes. Thanks for any info. Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] exercise bikes
The reason I asked about it is because I don't know of too many other places to ask about it. Sorry bout it being off topic. Shane - Original Message - From: Don To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 9:56 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] exercise bikes This would be way off topic for the list, unless it pertains too maintaining a exercise bike. That's why you haven't seen it posted to the list. Regards Don - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blind tech Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 9:18 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] exercise bikes I haven't seen this brought up on the list before. Does anyone use an exercise bike and if so, which ones do you like the best? I'm interested in the recumbant bikes. Thanks for any info. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.9/1238 - Release Date: 1/22/2008 8:12 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] exercise bikes
It's more comfortable, but I suppose not necessary. If the bike is useable, I'd be open to the standard style. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 9:54 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] exercise bikes Hi Shane, Is there a particular reason why you prefer the recumbent style of cycle? The important things to consider are fit, most are fairly adjustable but not all, and method of resistance. If at all possible sit on or in what ever it is you think you want to buy and make sure it fits you. Your leg should end just short of fully extended at the extreme of the cycle stroke. Nearly everyone complains of bum distress from the seat of a regular style cycle. One should not be landing all their weight on the seat it is inefficient exercise and you are not getting good use of the largest muscle group in the body if the seat is hurting your delicate bottom. There are those physically unable to use the standard style of cycle of course and this is sometimes a consideration. The method of resistance is the next significant thing. These days there are magnetic resistance cycles, electronic, simple (and cheap) roller resistance where a roller applies pressure on the wheel and the belt flywheel arrangement. Some are pretty noisy like the roller resistance type and they wear out rapidly. Though cheap they are generally unsatisfactory for any sort of serious or prolonged use. The flywheel belt arrangement tends to be very smooth, and usually reasonably quiet. If they use a pendulum arrangement to measure and even out the resistance they are also very accurate and relatively inexpensive. The belts last for ever and are usually pretty easily replaced. They are extremely reliable. The electronic resistance styles and the magnetic resistance styles tend to be a little more expensive. They are relatively hi-tech and most somewhat difficult to use for the blind these days with those beeping electronic programmes mostly no one really knows how to operate. The magnetic ones though are very smooth and, in the higher priced models they are pretty quiet. I don't know how reliable or durable they are, I expect price determines that. Sadly, the more you pay the more junk you get, most of which you don't need and a lot of which is purely gimmick. Things like calory calculators, pulse monitors which are generally unreliable and except in very specific situations unnecessary, built in televisions all add cost but nothing to the intended use or value of the equipment. Much of that stuff is touch sensitive operated with LCD display output and useless to the blind. Buy the most expensive plane model you can find and you will probably be most satisfied. Bring along your own television it will be better and useful long after the bike is holding up your dust collection. Just a few considerations I hope you find helpful. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blind tech Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 10:18 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] exercise bikes I haven't seen this brought up on the list before. Does anyone use an exercise bike and if so, which ones do you like the best? I'm interested in the recumbant bikes. Thanks for any info. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.9/1238 - Release Date: 1/22/2008 8:12 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] My Tool Broke . What do I do now?
Awe, what's wrong with harbor freight? Shane - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 10:23 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] My Tool Broke . What do I do now? Hammer Drill How often has it happened and the first hole you drill or board you cut something happens that kills your favorite tool. Everyone has been there, but what can you do to get your work done? Here are a few ideas that might help. First understand that every tool has a lifespan and one day or another there is going to be a need for Repair or Replacement. If you purchase big name tools Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita with decent repair contracts you can usually get your tool back in about 2 weeks. A few weeks or 2 at best is way too long to wait so Google the area you are working in and have a list of local tool suppliers. Even if the store is close you will have to spend an hour running down to the nearest big box store to purchase either a bottom end tool or endup forking out more money then you should for an exact replacement. One way to cut back on the Sticker and Emergency shock is to keep an extra Drill or Saw in your truck. It can be your old one or it can be a really cheap knockoff that should last those couple weeks until you get your good tool back from the factory repair shop. Another Idea is if you have the habit of cutting off your circular saw cord ask the repair center to send you out an extra one when they do the repair. It might also be a good idea to ask them to send you an extra set of Brushes for the tools motor. Brushes only cost about $5 so if you can put them in a safe place and change them quickly you can be back up working in just a few minutes. Most tool manufacturers now provide full exploded views of their tools and repair comment pages that will let you know what part goes where and how to replace and order it online. And the final Idea has to do with keeping an extra tool with you. At one point in time it was my job to keep the warehouse up to date for a contracting company. This meant that I was keeping track of hundreds of tools and thousands of parts including shipping out tools to authorized repair shops. If you can find a tool that may need some repair on Ebay or locally then pick it up. Parts are often very cheap in relation to the tools retail cost. Again you only want to do this with name brand companies but for maybe half or 1/4 the cost of a new tool you can buy a used one and rebuild it. This is not something you can do quickly when you are setting up your business but it is something that you can do on a weekend when you have a little time to get on the internet. Again your best bet if you NEED to have reciprocating saw is to buy a good one with a good contract. Then pickup one of the garbage $20 ones from COUGH www.HarborFreight.com It will get you through a tough situation at 3am when all the stores are closed and you are an hour away from your business or home. Good luck and be nice to your tools. -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.9/1238 - Release Date: 1/22/2008 8:12 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
saughtering was Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!
How does a totally blind person go about saughtering? Just wondering as I've never done it nor seen anyone do it before. Shane - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 5:57 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing! Always the odd ball, I like plumbing. It has gotten a bit harder to solder since they have done away with led in the solder but I can still sweat a pipe together. For those that don't like risking a fire in the house, they now make a solderless compound for copper pipes. It is much like the C A form of epoxy I use to build golf clubs with. It comes in a can and you brush it on like the stuff used with PVC. Great idea for places where a torch is dangerous. I'll find the link and send it along later. - Original Message - From: David Ferrin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:45 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing! The question is who if anybody likes plumbing actually. Oh the joys of owning a home. David Ferrin www.jaws-users.com - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:39 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing! This weekend was spent in battle with the pipes. The war was waged on two fronts, the kitchen faucet, and an unused toilet in the basement. the faucet had the upper hand for a while, but it now lays in many pieces at the bottom of my trash. Score one for the blind guy! This was an old faucet with three separate mountings, one each for the two taps, and one for the faucet itself. I spent a lot of time under the sink with the mother of all basin wrenches trying to get the nuts off the taps to no avail. I tried taking them out from above, but there was no way to grab onto the little collars, which also happened to be puttied to the sink surface. Much to Teresa's dismay, I, screaming that I would exact my vengeance on the faucet, ran to the basement and retrieved my Dremel. Several broken cutting disks later, after much prying, cursing and snarling, the taps and faucet were removed from the sink and the sink surface was not marred from the Dremel. Of course, after I slid the new faucet in place, the flex tubes attached to the faucet were not long enough to reach the shut-offs under the sink. That meant, not surprisingly, another trip to the store, but that had to wait until Sunday. Sunday morning I took a closer look at the toilet in the basement. This is a cruddy old toilet stuck in the corner of the basement with a plywood wall on none side and a partial plywood door. These are very common in Pittsburgh. The guts of the tank were completely rusted and broken and since the shut-off to the toilet didn't actually shut the water off, there had been a paint can wedged into the tank to keep the fill valve closed. I had upgraded the paint can to a 20 pound dumbell but figured I should probably fix the shut-off and take care of the tank guts while I was at it. Off to the store. We found some flexible tubes to extend the faucet lines and I installed them as soon as we got home. Had a lot of trouble getting the sprayer attachment threaded onto the under-side of the faucet, but Teresa eventually got her hands in there and got it tightened down. New faucet, with a single handle, works fine, of course, the brand new, $108 faucet has an itty bitty drip. Back down to the basement to lead the attack on the toilet. Turns out that the water connection to the tank was pretty clugy. Check this out, step by step: Long Copper pipe literally hangs down from the ceiling joists, threaded fitting sweated onto end of Copper pipe, shut-off screwed onto fitting, short, threaded, black iron pipe screwed into shut-off, elbow screwed into black iron, horizontal copper sweated into elbow, elbow sweated into other end of horizontal Copper, Some kind of fitting, possibly compression, bodged onto elbow, finally into tank. I managed to get the shut-off replaced with a ball valve without too much trouble. I managed to get the guts of the tank changed with a lot of work, having to cut and tare out some of the old parts. I could not get the funky assembly described above to go back into the new tank connection without leaking rather impressively. So, we are at a draw at the moment, but I intend on replacing most of that assembly with a flexible hose. Nearly panicked when in an attempt to identify what branch of my house plumbing has a slow leak, I turned off a shut-off and it proceeded to gush water like a hose. I got the main valve for the house shut and messed around with the shut-off for a while and cranked it open again and it seems to be happy for the time being. I'm starting to contemplate replacing all my shut-offs with ball valves.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] miter boxes
My box is made of plastic. Shane - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 12:28 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] miter boxes They are fine. Are you talking of the sort which is a wooden sort of box with slots in it to guide your saw? They work best with a stiff backed saw. They do become increasingly inaccurate because the saw tends to erode the edges of the cuts. Put a filler board in the bottom to keep the board you are cutting lifted up in that way you won't cut to the bottom of the guide cuts. There are miter frames which hold the saw sometimes also called boxes which work better but they do take patience. Good ones though are very accurate. Sadly I am too impatient. I want more power! Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 12:53 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] miter boxes What do you think of the miter boxes? Has anyone used them? Just wondering as my mother's husband got me one. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1221 - Release Date: 1/12/2008 2:04 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] miter boxes
What do you think of the miter boxes? Has anyone used them? Just wondering as my mother's husband got me one. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] saw horses
What's the standard hight for a saw horse? In partucular, how long are the legs supposed to be? Shane
[BlindHandyMan] I can thread, but not sure about cutting
I'm going to make a long story short. I went to Home Depot a couple days ago. They supposedly had a Rigid pipe cutter which could go up to 2 inches or so and cut through just about anything. Went today and they didn't have it for some reason and the salesperson has no idea what I'm talking about when I mention I saw it earlier. I've done some research on the internet and find that just about everything says tubing cutter or heavy duty tubing cutter. Just a bit confused on the difference between a tubing cutter and a pipe cutter. I have both the black pipe and copper and want to be able to work with both. Shane
[BlindHandyMan] oopse almost forgot
If a tubing cutter says it will cut through stainless steel, does that mean it will also cut through the black pipe? Shane
[BlindHandyMan] pipes
I want to be able to thred and cut pipes for water or gas. I know you can get a cutter, but is there a machine (in a decent price range) that will both cut and thred the pipe? I'd prefer something you do by hand, but if there is a powered unit at a decent price, I'd consider it. Thanks. Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] got gas
I installed a dishwasher once. Not hard to do, just a little tight in some places. And I had a good friend of mine with me. That's where I learned that tephlon tape is quite useful at sealing/preventing leaks. Shane - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 10:01 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] got gas Some others on the list have tried to talk you out doint this job. My thought is how do y ou get the experience unless you do some of the work? Have you done any plumbing work with threaded fittings to contain water pressure? Water is 50 plus p s i. Gas is in ounces of pressure. If you have done plumbing work you have a couple of pipe wrenches. Pretty difficult to turn pipe tight without them. Good tight fittings will prevent leaks. About the best cheap leak detector is your nose after you have been outside for at least ten minutes and sniff close to the fittings. Sighted people use soap bubbles, pretty crude. To do it professionaly buy a gas leak detectory form a H V A C supply house. Pipe dope is a must. I mess the tape up too easy. Buy the closest lengths of pipe already threaded and finish with the flexible steel line to the final hookup right after the shut off valve. Hopefully look at the hot water heater and see if there is a drip leg that is the Ron - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 3:09 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] got gas Natural gas, that is. It's going to my hot water heater and furnace, but I want to bring it to the stove. That means putting a gas jet nearby. How hard is it for a totally blind person to do without sighted assistance and what's the best way to do this? This includes checking for gas leaks. The stove is on an interior wall. On the other side of that wall is the garage. If you are facing the front of the stove, the hot water heater is located about 2 feet away, to the right, in the garage. The gas line for it comes down the exterior wall, which would lead me to believe there is a gas line close by. I know I will need some piping (including elbows, a t, and a gas valve or 2), some pipe cutters, and perhaps some tephlon tape or pipe dope. I've also heard if you use compression fittings, you don't need the tape or dope. If I'm not mistaken, all can be bought at Lowes or Home Depot. Oh yes, safety first, turn off the gas before proceeding. Anything else I'm missing? F-y-i, the reason I want gas at the stove (which is currently electric) is because I've developed a serious dislike of the smooth top. In particular, it overheats when using just about any pot I have. This includes a couple new circulons, which are supposed to work well on smooth tops (including induction which I don't have) and gas. I'm getting a little tired of it and want something where it *doesn't matter* what type of pot I use, it will work without problems. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.12/1163 - Release Date: 12/1/2007 12:05 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] got gas
Got 1 adjustable rench and a pair of vice grips. Also got some renches with the non adjustable open ends. Shane - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 4:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] got gas You didn't mention if you have a pair of pipe wrenches available? Also take note of the pressure test posting. Some very good information there. It's possible you might do all the work and then get it inspected depending on the requirements in your area. Ron - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 4:10 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] got gas I installed a dishwasher once. Not hard to do, just a little tight in some places. And I had a good friend of mine with me. That's where I learned that tephlon tape is quite useful at sealing/preventing leaks. Shane - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 10:01 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] got gas Some others on the list have tried to talk you out doint this job. My thought is how do y ou get the experience unless you do some of the work? Have you done any plumbing work with threaded fittings to contain water pressure? Water is 50 plus p s i. Gas is in ounces of pressure. If you have done plumbing work you have a couple of pipe wrenches. Pretty difficult to turn pipe tight without them. Good tight fittings will prevent leaks. About the best cheap leak detector is your nose after you have been outside for at least ten minutes and sniff close to the fittings. Sighted people use soap bubbles, pretty crude. To do it professionaly buy a gas leak detectory form a H V A C supply house. Pipe dope is a must. I mess the tape up too easy. Buy the closest lengths of pipe already threaded and finish with the flexible steel line to the final hookup right after the shut off valve. Hopefully look at the hot water heater and see if there is a drip leg that is the Ron - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 3:09 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] got gas Natural gas, that is. It's going to my hot water heater and furnace, but I want to bring it to the stove. That means putting a gas jet nearby. How hard is it for a totally blind person to do without sighted assistance and what's the best way to do this? This includes checking for gas leaks. The stove is on an interior wall. On the other side of that wall is the garage. If you are facing the front of the stove, the hot water heater is located about 2 feet away, to the right, in the garage. The gas line for it comes down the exterior wall, which would lead me to believe there is a gas line close by. I know I will need some piping (including elbows, a t, and a gas valve or 2), some pipe cutters, and perhaps some tephlon tape or pipe dope. I've also heard if you use compression fittings, you don't need the tape or dope. If I'm not mistaken, all can be bought at Lowes or Home Depot. Oh yes, safety first, turn off the gas before proceeding. Anything else I'm missing? F-y-i, the reason I want gas at the stove (which is currently electric) is because I've developed a serious dislike of the smooth top. In particular, it overheats when using just about any pot I have. This includes a couple new circulons, which are supposed to work well on smooth tops (including induction which I don't have) and gas. I'm getting a little tired of it and want something where it *doesn't matter* what type of pot I use, it will work without problems. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.12/1163 - Release Date: 12/1/2007 12:05 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1165 - Release Date: 12/2/2007 8:34 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] all I want for christmas is a double oven range+reason for gas question
There's a twist. I want a double oven range with a *coil* cooktop. However, I don't know of any ranges that have this setup, so thought gas (at least for the top) was my only choice. Hence, I asked about running a gas line. Now, lets suppose gas is not an option. Can you fit a double oven and a cooktop in the same space as a standard range? This is assuming of course coil cooktops are still made. Shane
Re: [BlindHandyMan] all I want for christmas is a double oven range+reason for gas question
Question is would a cooktop be able to fit over a double oven and still be no higher than about 47 inches. That's about the height of a range. Shane - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 9:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] all I want for christmas is a double oven range+reason for gas question The double oven I was talking about in the wall is the one over the other style. I would think a side by side would require a lot of baking to make it worth the lost space. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 10:17 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] all I want for christmas is a double oven range+reason for gas question Coil cook tops are still made and they also still make the solid plate type. While I haven't been in the market for a range in a long time the standard sizes are 24 and 30 inches. There are now many larger as well. I have only seen double side-by-side ovens in wider ones but there may be some as narrow as 30 inches I don't know that. I have also seen some one above the other but not often, more commonly when I lived in England. So, they do make the top you want but I don't know about the double oven. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 9:33 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] all I want for christmas is a double oven range+reason for gas question There's a twist. I want a double oven range with a *coil* cooktop. However, I don't know of any ranges that have this setup, so thought gas (at least for the top) was my only choice. Hence, I asked about running a gas line. Now, lets suppose gas is not an option. Can you fit a double oven and a cooktop in the same space as a standard range? This is assuming of course coil cooktops are still made. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1165 - Release Date: 12/2/2007 8:34 PM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rats, Rats and Rats??
How would air go through the vent if it is sealed? Shane - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 3:18 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rats, Rats and Rats?? how about putting the poison inside the pipe and then seal it up? On Wed, 24 Oct 2007, Victor Gouveia wrote: Hi Max, Does a portion of the hose sit on the outside of the house? If it doesn't, I think it's safe to assume that puppy is coming from inside the house and drilling out. Like I said, if the screen is hole free, and there are no parts of the hose that sit on the outside of the house, that's the only conclusion I can think of. Victor -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.11/1094 - Release Date: 10/26/2007 8:50 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] touch buttons from hell
I got a new stove recently. You would think the touch buttons are supposed to be touch, right? Not so with these. You have to push down on them pretty hard (about 2 or 3 times normal pressure) before they will respond. For those who are sighted, it's like having a touch pad set at the heaviest touch with the palm check slider all the way on. Any idea what could be causing this and how to fix it? Shane
[BlindHandyMan] range question
I'm considering getting a double oven range. Any suggestions on which ones are the best? I want to go with electric at 30 inches wide. Shane
