RE: [Chevelle-list] a-pillar gauge mounts?
Thanks Rick! -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 11:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] a-pillar gauge mounts? Forget that "Forget that" I knew I'd seen them. They have single & dual gauge pillar mounts for 68-72. Part #'s 10183 & 10184 On 9/22/05, Rick Schaefer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Forget that. I don't see one there now. Thought that they had one. Sorry bout that. On 9/22/05, Rick Schaefer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Try www.autometer.com I know they have a pod for 68-72, not sure about early years. On 9/22/05, Dave Studly <[EMAIL PROTECTED] > wrote: Does anyone make a gauge-pod for mounting gauges on the a-pillar? -Dave -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
[Chevelle-list] a-pillar gauge mounts?
Does anyone make a gauge-pod for mounting gauges on the a-pillar? -Dave
[Chevelle-list] hello?
No list traffic in two days? -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] 1969 fuse box
Those are for adding accessories. The bottom one is labeled IGN, for Ignition-ON, ie it turns off when the key turns off. Good place for powering an aftermarket tach, for example. I forget if this is on when the key is in the accessory position. The top one should be labeled BAT -- this is battery-hot (always-on). Good place for hooking up the memory power on a newer stereo, for example. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 7:43 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] 1969 fuse box Looking at Rusty's picture again, there are also a few spade connectors in the middle of the box, between rows of fuses. I wonder what they are for.
RE: [Chevelle-list] What do you drive?
70 Chevelle 95 Beretta 88 Yamaha Radian 63 Corvette (my father's, but we share! Restoration almost complete) -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] Rear End Carrier
I have a non-posi carrier for a 12-bolt that probably has 2.73 or 3.08 gears on it. I'm sure we could work something out if you just want something so you can get the rearend together, because I'll never use it. Email me off list if you're interested. -Dave, [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ryan Langstraat Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 10:31 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Rear End Carrier Trooper, I should have stated that the rearend is a 12 bolt. It would not have to be posi but would be nice. Is there a huge price difference between the two? Thank you for your time and knowledge. Ryan
RE: [Chevelle-list] HEI Problems :-/
It's either late, or you're out of beer. :-) -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2005 6:58 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HEI Problems :-/ It's getting late, 5 past 1 at midnight |-(
RE: [Chevelle-list] HEI Problems :-/
I’ve been doing a lot of distributor swapping the past few weeks. If you want an absolutely fool-proof method of getting it right, pull off the driver’s side valve cover off and as you spin the engine over, watch for the #1 intake valve to close, and then keep rotating to line up the TDC mark on the balancer. Depending on your engine, this may or may not be more labor intensive than pulling the #1 plug. For me, I prefer to use a 7/16” socket on a cordless drill to pull/replace my valve cover than to get the #1 plug out. Firing order on all chevy V-8s (all GM V-8s, I believe) is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. It makes no difference where #1 is on the cap, as long as the wires are in the right order. On my engine, viewed from the front of the vehicle, #1 on the distributor is about in the 7 o’clock position. On an HEI distributor, you’ll notice teeth on the distributor shaft, and some corresponding teeth on the distributor body. When they are lined up, that is what triggers the module to fire the coil. When these teeth (which I believe are magnetized) pass each other, an AC voltage is generated. This is what the HEI module senses to fire the coil. I’m not sure how/if you can check this AC voltage with a standard voltmeter or not. You could certainly check it on an oscilloscope, but I doubt many people have one, unless you’re a real electronics guru. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2005 5:53 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HEI Problems :-/ When I pulled the old distributor the engine was right on TDC (just happened to be so) and the rotor was in fact 180 degrees opposite the installation recommendation. But I didn't write down the location of the spark plug wires (doh!) But if I rotate the rotor 180 degrees I have to relocate all the spark plug wires to be in the right firing order, right? And that means that I'm back to square one as far as I can see? It wouldn't really matter which way the rotor points as long as you hook up the #1 cylinder to that position at TDC? Am i thinking too much here!? B.T.W. I can tell you that "bumping over" a big block with a socket wrench is no easy task :-( Best regards Pelle - Original Message - From: KW To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2005 7:50 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HEI Problems :-/ Sounds like you have the distributor 180 degrees off (or a couple of teeth off). Try to have someone crank the engine while you twist the distributor and see if it cranks easier (or starts- indicates that it is a tooth or several off). Or just pull the distributor up enough so the gear isn't engaged, turn the rotor 180 degrees, reinstall, and see if it will start (if it is 180 off). Keith - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2005 1:34 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HEI Problems :-/ I've just installed my HEI and I've done it "by the book" Locaded TDC etc. I used the http://www.2quicknovas.com/happydistributors.html to do the inital setup but something's wrong and I need a 2:nd opinion frum you guys. I've got spark and the engine pops & puffs but do not start. (and on top of it all my starter suddenly need some shimming!?) 1. Is the guide correct? 2. How would you have done it? Best regards Pelle __ Chevelle gearheads http://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
RE: [Chevelle-list] Stupid Question
Yes, it’s possible to put the flexplate on backwards, but if it is the torque converter won’t bolt up. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jason Fiegel Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 7:29 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Stupid Question I have a 69 chevelle with a 350 and 350 trans, is it possible to put the flex plate on backwards? the reason I ask, is because it would start, then it seems to miss the fly wheel once in awhile now the starter just spins. I looked at the teeth and they seem to be worn on just part of the flywheel. Thanks in advanced Jason
RE: [Chevelle-list] 70 Ignition Switch Removal
Hey Rick, I'll take a scan of that page. The cylinder in my 70 won't go back to Accessory position anymore. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 10:10 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 70 Ignition Switch Removal Do you have a Factory Service Manual? Instruction is in there, not hard to do but hard to explain without pictures (or being there). You will need to remove steering wheel and directional switch. Then there is a small square area (as I recall - but its been a long time) where you need to remove some metal flashing. Then stick a small screwdriver into the cavity you opened & the cylinder will release. I can email you a scan of the page from the manual if you don't get better directions/instruction from someone else. On 8/4/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Need some help... > > How do I remove the column ignition switch from a 70 Chevelle? > > Thanks, > Jerry Wells > ACES 5923 -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
RE: [Chevelle-list] 283
Amen. :-) -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2005 11:03 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 283 No disrepect to anyone but you guys can keep your BB's. I'm lovin' life in a SBC!!! Phil G. 65 SS MCC ACES TC LGC VCCA AMCA
RE: [Chevelle-list] Z/28 engine
Better marketing? :-) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 6:52 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Z/28 engine Sorry didn’t list the base 327, only the optional 327s. Wonder why the L76 gained 25hp from 63 to 64 and the L84 gained 15hp? Better heads, better exhaust, or just playing with numbers? Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference CD beta now available! ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 5:43 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Z/28 engine The only difference between the 1964-65 L76 and L84 engines was the induction system used. The L76 had a high-rise intake with Holley carb and obviously the L84 had the Rochester fuel injection. Both used the Duntov 30/30 solid lifter cam. Just to add to the 1964 line,the standard engine in Corvettes that year was a 250hp 327. Yep,I had one of those too,,a Red/White 1964 coupe with 250hp/327,powerglide,power steering,power brakes,power windows,and factory air (rare option). Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dale According to http://www.idavette.net the 63-65 engine options for 327s were: 1963 ~ L75 327/300 – L76 327/340 – L84 327/360 (FI) 1964 ~ L75 327/300 – L76 327/365 – L84 327/375 (FI) 1965 ~ L75 327/300 – L76 327/365 – L79 327/350 - L84 327/375 (FI) They don’t mention just what the differences were. Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference CD beta now available! ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 11:37 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Z/28 engine The 1963 327's with Rochester injection were rated at 360hp. Not sure why they increased the hp rating to 375. I've forgotten what was changed in the engine to make the extra power,if anything. They also made a 365hp Holley carb'd 327 in 1965. Anyone know the different power ratings of the 64 Corvette 327's? I've forgotten if they were the same as the MY63 or MY65. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dave Corgill At 10:34 AM 7/19/2005, you wrote: > >Actually,the L84 was uprated to 375hp in the 1965 Corvette. I know,I had two >of them,,a coupe and a roadster. 375 was the FI . Yep, I had a 65 327/365 with the holly conv, wish I never sold it. 4 speed, Wonder what it's worth now.. (I don't want to know).
RE: [Chevelle-list] TPI conversion
There's also the 'TPI/TBI Engine Swap Guide' (or something close to that) from JTR Publishing. Very useful book. I can also recommend thirdgen.org. You might have to weed through some BS, but there's smart, helpful people there. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 8:16 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] TPI conversion Hiya, I recommend John Baechtel's "Chevy TPI Fuel Injection Swapper's Guide," and Jason Scott's "How to Tune and Modify Chevrolet TPI Engines." Dave Emanuel's "Small-Block Chevy Performance" was also useful for me, though it's not specific to TPI engines.. There's also a *ton* of info at thirdgen.org in their forums and tech reference pages. Just pretend you have the Firebird when you ask questions. :) Dave. On Jul 15, 2005, at 3:58 PM, Dan McIntosh wrote: > Howdy all, > I have a 1989 Firebird formula that I will be removing the TPI and > 700R4 trans from to install in my Impala. > Does anyone know of a good reference book or site to help me along on > this project? > > Thank you. > > Dan McIntosh > 1963 Impala SS Convertible > "HOP IT TILL IT BREAKS" > Street Metal Fabrications > http://www.lowriderimpala.com >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Brake Booster Angle
I don't think there is any real reason you can't 'bench bleed' it on the car using the brake pedal. However, you need to be careful that the lines are always submerged in brake fluid while trying to bleed it. That's tough to do with the plastic (flexible) lines they give you with a new M/C while you are in the car pumping the brake pedal. Getting a helper or making some hard lines for bleeding should make it easier. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Usher Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 8:36 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brake Booster Angle I have two questions that have always puzzled me 1) Why are brake boosters (and therefore master cylinders) sometimes mounted at an angle? Why are the brackets not such that they are essentially level? 2) Why do they tell you to bench bleed a master cylinder on a bench vise and not with it attached to the brake booster so you can use the brake pedal to activate the plunger? Doing it on a bench vise is a real pain in terms of activating the plunger. Thanks. john
RE: [Chevelle-list] fuel Impedance
Hey all, keep posting any progress you make on this. The sending unit in my ’70 is only reading from ½ to empty. It won’t go over ½, even when the tank is full. I’ll probably be dropping my tank soon to start checking it out. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 10:59 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel Impedance I believe from checking out my fuel sending unit and gauge, that in 1964 they were 50 OHM and in 1965 they went to 90 OHM. I have a 90 OHM sending unit and a 90 OHM gauge, but it is not working the full range of the gauge. It only reads about half the range on the gauge. Hope we all can find some help with this. I need to recheck my sending unit. Need to put an OHM meter on it and check it. In a message dated 7/11/2005 4:09:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: GM after something like 1965 use 0-90ohm, be sure to buy the right gauge. ciao André > Got a quick question: I want to replace the fule gauge with an autometer one, but i > noticed there are a few different OHM ratings i can select from. What is the 71 > chevelle OHMS for the gas gauge. > > Thanks, > Kyle
RE: [Chevelle-list] Thermostat
I think you’ll find three basic choices – 160, 180, and 195. Personally, I’ve always used 180s, and like the previous poster, have done so for 15 years. I think 160 is a little cool for full temp, but that’s me. You’d do fine with either. 195 is a common OEM thermostat temp, I believe. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 10:28 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Thermostat I use a 160 in my 396. Have for 15 years.
RE: [Chevelle-list] terminology
Unspring weight is weight that is not supported by the springs on the car. The most obvious example would be the wheels & tires. The complete rear axle would be another component that is ‘unsprung weight’. I’m going to guess that the front a-arms and spindle assembly also fall into this category. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 11:52 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] terminology YES! I too always wondered what "upsprung" weight is??
RE: [Chevelle-list] Need a new crank?
Holy cow. I work for a scrap metal company and have seen many locomotive engine blocks come in for scrap and I thought they were big, as you can fit two or three on a tractor-trailer flatbed. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Bradley Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 8:33 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Need a new crank? and cheap too - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 5:53 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Need a new crank? > And I though a crank for a BBC was heavy :-) > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item =4559319230&rd=1 > > Hans > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] what size carb??
A Holley/Edelbrock/Carter will equally be your friend *if you know how to tune it right.* And that’s the key. All brands have been proven to work well on street-driven engines. Run whatever carb you can get the best help with. If it is falling on its face after 600 feet, that sounds like a fuel delivery problem. What kind of condition is the fuel pump in? Clogged/dirty fuel filter? Double check the float height as well. This might sound silly, but how much gas is in the tank? If your carb ran well on the 283, it should still run reasonably well on the 350, all else being equal. It may be not be optimum, but it shouldn’t fall on its face. I agree that a bigger carb isn’t necessarily better and that a 650 should be fine in terms of size. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 11:11 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] what size carb?? Put a Q-jet on it, it will run better. A Q-jet can be your best friend if you know how to tune it right. The Holley might be running out of fuel when you are one it so you may need to adjust the floats or even put some bigger jets in it. The most common thing I see as far as carbs go, is that people like to overcarb the engine. More HP does not mean you need an 850 CFM carb. A 650 is plenty for a streetable small block. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] new 68-72 floor pan
What kind of does this go for? -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 6:51 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] new 68-72 floor pan Another cool new item is the 68-72 complete floor pan with all three braces, the rear seat shelf, and the rocker panels all pre-welded. It's more expensive than buying the separate pieces and putting them together yourself, but time is also of value, and you would probably end up with a nicer finished product. The part number is 1462X . John Nasta
RE: [Chevelle-list] 454 carbs
Fred, The jetting could certainly be the cause of your lackluster performance. If it's too rich, it would probably feel flat like you describe. If it was too lean, you'd probably get some popping out the exhaust or backfiring through the carb, or you'd at least feel some surging at cruise. If you're pretty certain that the old carb had 72/70 getting, that would be a good place to start. It seems odd to me that your primaries are larger -- but if it worked for you, that's what matters. Another option might be to find a good dyno shop in your area. They can hook your car up, stick a wide-band O2 sensor in the tailpipe and they can show you exactly where you are rich or lean, and by how much. It's not expensive. I put my car on one last summer to get a baseline before my EFI swap and it cost me $85, making 4 pulls. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred Dowaliby Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 9:34 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] 454 carbs Hi Folks, I am once again in need of your expertise and advice, this time re: carburetor selection and tuning. My car is a '68 Chevelle based 32 Ford street rod, 454/th400 with 3:08 rear. I estimate it weighs about 2800 lbs. Pertinent engine vitals: flat top pistons, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, air gap intake, Comp Cams CB 280H-10 cam. The stall converter is 2200. I am currently using a new out of the box Holley 750 dbl pumper carb. I have tried a Speed Demon 750 vacum secondary. Both have resulted in lackluster performance. There is no bog, they just don't have any punch. My comparison is the carb I was using (never should have sold it!), an older Holley 750 dbl pumper. That thing used to run like a beast! I replaced it with the Demon because it just looked grungy, I got sucked into how pretty the demons looked, and I wanted to "clean up" the engine. I then replaced the Demon with the Holley thinking I should have stuck with mechanical secondaries like worked well before. This resulted in the same lackluster performance. I made the mistake of breaking the rule "If it ain't broke don't fix it!". I am at a point where I just don't know what to do. Is a 750 big enough for this engine? Should I start playing with the main jets? I don't know what's in there now, but I recall the old one had #72/#70 for primary/secondary. I don't have any experience with carb innards. Should I look for a trustworthy carb expert/shop? Thanks for your help, Fred Dowaliby
RE: [Chevelle-list] looking for swapmeets
There's a swap meet in Canfield (near Youngstown) that is coming up soon, the weekend of July 8th. It's usually a pretty good one, in terms of vendors. I'm planning on heading down there. http://www.autoevents.com/canfield.htm When was Randolph? Haven't been there in several years. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of christopher william Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 7:30 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] looking for swapmeets OK guys, Maybe you can help. I'm trying to find swapmeets in the northern ohio area. I'm having trouble finding any? Can anyone out there help? I went to the Randolph swap meet & I couldn't frick'n believe how many mustang parts were there. Only 2 guys with any Chevelle parts! But I did pick up a nice spare dash for 30 bucks :) Thanks __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
RE: [Chevelle-list] 65 Heater Removal
Larry, I don’t know how much different the job is on a 70 versus a 65, but it can be a pain in the rear. When I did mine, I had the engine out so it was a little easier, but still not a walk in the park. It’s really just 2 or 3 bolts/nuts that are a real pain (the ones tucked under the passenger side fender). Make sure you have some warble (worble? Wobble?) extensions for your sockets. I didn’t have to remove the inner fender, but I did take out several bolts so that I could move it a little bit. It’s not much of a help, but.. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Williams Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 10:52 AM To: Chevelle List Subject: [Chevelle-list] 65 Heater Removal My heater core leaks. Any secrets out there to make this job easier? Does the inner fender well need to come off? No AC. Dreading this job. Larry Williams
RE: Re: [Chevelle-list] 70 ss only
I think that it was other way around.. in 70 (71?) and later, what they were
calling 396s were actually 402s. 402 = .030"-over 396, I believe.
Before '70, GM had a restriction of no more than 400ci in a mid-size.
-Dave
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Krister Meister
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 11:23 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Cc: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re: [Chevelle-list] 70 ss only
I had read somewhere that the 396's ('66 - '69) actually measure out to be
a 402, but were called 396 to just come under some criteria at that time.
Anyone else able to support this?
Krister
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent by:To: The Chevelle
Mailing List
[EMAIL PROTECTED]cc:
evelles.net Fax to:
Subject: Re: Re:
[Chevelle-list] 70 ss only
06/16/2005 09:57 AM
Please respond to The
Chevelle Mailing List
Ed,you don't have a 396,,unless the motor isn't original,,all 70 -72's
were 402's,,fact.
>
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu Jun 16, 12:16 AM
> To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 70 ss only
>
> 1970 Chevelle SS Convertible. 396, Muncie M-21, original 14 inch wheels.
A
> few things have been changed out over the years, headlights, top, things
like
> that, but the drivetrain is still intact.
>
>
> Ed Fleshman
> Columbia, SC
> EFMF - My Personal Automotive Page
>
>
1970 Chevelle SS Convertible. 396, Muncie M-21, original 14 inch wheels. A
few things have been changed out over the years, headlights, top, things
like that, but the drivetrain is still intact.
Ed Fleshman
Columbia, SC
EFMF - My Personal Automotive Page
[Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned -- and raced
Finally got my car to the dragstrip this weekend, at the newly renamed Thompson Raceway Park in NE Ohio. Sunday was hot, humid, and miserable from the standpoint of trying to get a good ET. The air was just awful -- 90+ degrees, and over 90% humidity. The sweat pouring into my eyes (with contacts) didn't make matters any better. One minor problem -- it's easy to uncover the fuel pickup in the tank, resulting in a momentary loss of power, with less than 1/3 or 1/4 tank of fuel. I'll probably need to come up with an in-tank pump setup, or sump my current tank. I managed to run a 13.08 and 13.09 @ 103 MPH. I've run high 12s on my carb setup, but I don't think the carb would've run this well in the heat. In fact, my last time out with the carb was in cold October air and I couldn't hit 12s then, either (which bugged me at the time). With the weather the way it was, I considered this outing a 100% success. Fuel pickup getting uncovered not withstanding, the car never missed a beat. I think the Stealthram has more top-end power at the expense of under-3000 torque than my Performer RPM/Holley 750 VS combo. I think I'm gonna change the pill in my MSD box and try shifting around 6200-6400 RPM. So, for those keeping score at home, my Megasquirt install has been a homerun. It was a bit of work to install, but the drivability is fantastic and the ease of tuning is great. If anyone is on the fence about going EFI, do it. You'll be happy. I am! -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Studly Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 12:07 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned Yep, it has run near perfect so far. Engine Temp never went over 190. I had one minor issue tonight where it didn't want to idle without a slight bit of throttle. I believe it's a problem of the IAT (Inlet Air Temp) sensor getting heat-soaking since it is mounted in the plenum, the computer is thinking the incoming air is hotter than it truly is, and is leaning the mixture. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 9:22 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Cc: Chevelle-List@Chevelles.Net Subject: Re: RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned Dave, How did the car run in the 90 degree super Ohio humidity? Stay nice and cool for ya? Walt - Original Message - From: Dave Studly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Friday, June 10, 2005 6:07 pm Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned > Thanks, and I will. I tried to take plenty of pics along the way > with the > intent of writing it up. > > I drove the car to work today and it really runs great. I'm > definitely a > believer at this point. Once I'm comfortable with it, I'll tackle > electronic timing control. > > At times, this project has been very frustrating, but very > rewarding now > that it runs well. :-) > > -Dave > > > -Original Message- > From: mike f [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 3:32 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned > > Take some pics and write it up. I love reading all > this leading edge stuff. I want to say a BIG "Good for > You!". > > mike f. > > --- Dave Studly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I finally got my car into a good running state and > > got one of my buddies to > > help me do some tuning on my Megasquirt controlled > > 406 tonight. > > > > > > > > In a word, wow. In two words, friggin' cool. > > > > > > > > We went out on the freeway with Mark driving and me > > riding shotgun with the > > laptop. I had him just roll-on to full throttle > > while I watched the O2 > > sensor and noted what parts of the VE Table we were > > running in. He made a > > run, you could feel it was lean, as well as see the > > O2 sensor showing lean. > > We richened up that part of the table, and made > > another run. That felt > > better. Adjust a little more and try again. Within > > 5-6 runs, we had it > > running pretty solid. The Megasquirt is pretty easy > > to adjust. It beats > > the hell out of changing jets. > > > > > > > > The Stealthram, combined with my 406, 487X heads, > > 234/244 .488/.510 cam > > really runs strong. Granted, it's been a while > > since I've driven it (Oct > > 2004), but it really felt strong tonight. It felt > > at least as good as it > > ever did on the carb i
RE: RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned
Yep, it has run near perfect so far. Engine Temp never went over 190. I had one minor issue tonight where it didn't want to idle without a slight bit of throttle. I believe it's a problem of the IAT (Inlet Air Temp) sensor getting heat-soaking since it is mounted in the plenum, the computer is thinking the incoming air is hotter than it truly is, and is leaning the mixture. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 9:22 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Cc: Chevelle-List@Chevelles.Net Subject: Re: RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned Dave, How did the car run in the 90 degree super Ohio humidity? Stay nice and cool for ya? Walt - Original Message ----- From: Dave Studly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Friday, June 10, 2005 6:07 pm Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned > Thanks, and I will. I tried to take plenty of pics along the way > with the > intent of writing it up. > > I drove the car to work today and it really runs great. I'm > definitely a > believer at this point. Once I'm comfortable with it, I'll tackle > electronic timing control. > > At times, this project has been very frustrating, but very > rewarding now > that it runs well. :-) > > -Dave > > > -Original Message- > From: mike f [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 3:32 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned > > Take some pics and write it up. I love reading all > this leading edge stuff. I want to say a BIG "Good for > You!". > > mike f. > > --- Dave Studly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I finally got my car into a good running state and > > got one of my buddies to > > help me do some tuning on my Megasquirt controlled > > 406 tonight. > > > > > > > > In a word, wow. In two words, friggin' cool. > > > > > > > > We went out on the freeway with Mark driving and me > > riding shotgun with the > > laptop. I had him just roll-on to full throttle > > while I watched the O2 > > sensor and noted what parts of the VE Table we were > > running in. He made a > > run, you could feel it was lean, as well as see the > > O2 sensor showing lean. > > We richened up that part of the table, and made > > another run. That felt > > better. Adjust a little more and try again. Within > > 5-6 runs, we had it > > running pretty solid. The Megasquirt is pretty easy > > to adjust. It beats > > the hell out of changing jets. > > > > > > > > The Stealthram, combined with my 406, 487X heads, > > 234/244 .488/.510 cam > > really runs strong. Granted, it's been a while > > since I've driven it (Oct > > 2004), but it really felt strong tonight. It felt > > at least as good as it > > ever did on the carb in terms of response and WOT > > power. I'm going to the > > dragstrip on Sunday to see if it translates into > > 60ft, ET, and/or MPH. > > Being the first time out with the setup, I wonder > > what'll break first. :-P > > > > > > > > I won't say that I didn't have a bunch of hassle > > getting my car to run > > initially, but exactly as in the Car Craft article, > > none of them were > > related to the Megasquirt malfunctioning - all of > > mine were ignition > > related. The next step will be to get the > > Megasquirt controlling an 8-pin > > HEI so it can run the timing, too. It currently has > > an MSD pro-billet with > > VR sensor and only mechanical advance, no vacuum > > advance. > > > > > > > > I've probably put close to 100 miles on it in the > > past 2 days without a > > hiccup. Woo hoo! > > > > > > > > -Dave > > > > > > > > > > > > > __ > Discover Yahoo! > Use Yahoo! to plan a weekend, have fun online and more. Check it > out! > http://discover.yahoo.com/ > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned
Thanks, and I will. I tried to take plenty of pics along the way with the intent of writing it up. I drove the car to work today and it really runs great. I'm definitely a believer at this point. Once I'm comfortable with it, I'll tackle electronic timing control. At times, this project has been very frustrating, but very rewarding now that it runs well. :-) -Dave -Original Message- From: mike f [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 3:32 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned Take some pics and write it up. I love reading all this leading edge stuff. I want to say a BIG "Good for You!". mike f. --- Dave Studly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I finally got my car into a good running state and > got one of my buddies to > help me do some tuning on my Megasquirt controlled > 406 tonight. > > > > In a word, wow. In two words, friggin' cool. > > > > We went out on the freeway with Mark driving and me > riding shotgun with the > laptop. I had him just roll-on to full throttle > while I watched the O2 > sensor and noted what parts of the VE Table we were > running in. He made a > run, you could feel it was lean, as well as see the > O2 sensor showing lean. > We richened up that part of the table, and made > another run. That felt > better. Adjust a little more and try again. Within > 5-6 runs, we had it > running pretty solid. The Megasquirt is pretty easy > to adjust. It beats > the hell out of changing jets. > > > > The Stealthram, combined with my 406, 487X heads, > 234/244 .488/.510 cam > really runs strong. Granted, it's been a while > since I've driven it (Oct > 2004), but it really felt strong tonight. It felt > at least as good as it > ever did on the carb in terms of response and WOT > power. I'm going to the > dragstrip on Sunday to see if it translates into > 60ft, ET, and/or MPH. > Being the first time out with the setup, I wonder > what'll break first. :-P > > > > I won't say that I didn't have a bunch of hassle > getting my car to run > initially, but exactly as in the Car Craft article, > none of them were > related to the Megasquirt malfunctioning - all of > mine were ignition > related. The next step will be to get the > Megasquirt controlling an 8-pin > HEI so it can run the timing, too. It currently has > an MSD pro-billet with > VR sensor and only mechanical advance, no vacuum > advance. > > > > I've probably put close to 100 miles on it in the > past 2 days without a > hiccup. Woo hoo! > > > > -Dave > > > > __ Discover Yahoo! Use Yahoo! to plan a weekend, have fun online and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/
[Chevelle-list] EFI finally tuned
I finally got my car into a good running state and got one of my buddies to help me do some tuning on my Megasquirt controlled 406 tonight. In a word, wow. In two words, friggin’ cool. We went out on the freeway with Mark driving and me riding shotgun with the laptop. I had him just roll-on to full throttle while I watched the O2 sensor and noted what parts of the VE Table we were running in. He made a run, you could feel it was lean, as well as see the O2 sensor showing lean. We richened up that part of the table, and made another run. That felt better. Adjust a little more and try again. Within 5-6 runs, we had it running pretty solid. The Megasquirt is pretty easy to adjust. It beats the hell out of changing jets. The Stealthram, combined with my 406, 487X heads, 234/244 .488/.510 cam really runs strong. Granted, it’s been a while since I’ve driven it (Oct 2004), but it really felt strong tonight. It felt at least as good as it ever did on the carb in terms of response and WOT power. I’m going to the dragstrip on Sunday to see if it translates into 60ft, ET, and/or MPH. Being the first time out with the setup, I wonder what’ll break first. :-P I won’t say that I didn’t have a bunch of hassle getting my car to run initially, but exactly as in the Car Craft article, none of them were related to the Megasquirt malfunctioning – all of mine were ignition related. The next step will be to get the Megasquirt controlling an 8-pin HEI so it can run the timing, too. It currently has an MSD pro-billet with VR sensor and only mechanical advance, no vacuum advance. I’ve probably put close to 100 miles on it in the past 2 days without a hiccup. Woo hoo! -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end??
This is why I think guys, especially ones newer to classic cars, are silly for trying to buy original numbers matching cars. What exactly are you paying for when it can be duplicated and faked and be indistinguishable from a ‘real’ SS? What defines a ‘real’ SS anyway? One that has all the correct SS options, or only one that left the factory that way? What makes a ’70 SS454, all original, worth so much more than a ’70 Malibu with a 454/TH400/12-bolt posi ? If you’re buying and selling these cars to make money, I have no pity for them getting taken on cloned SS. With that said, when I finally re-do the body and paintwork on my ’70 Malibu, I’ll probably add SS stripes, Cowl hood, the rear bumper insert and paint my grill black with the stainless trim, although I probably will keep my idiot-light dash. With my EFI small block and Hotchkis suspension, no one will mistake it for a ‘real’ SS, but it’ll run circles around any ‘real’ SS. I’ll build my car the way I choose, much like Clint said. I’m 32. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gene's General Restoration Parts Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 9:20 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Where will it end?? Just checking out eBay for stuff I need for my 69 and ran across someone selling build sheets! It is not bad enogh that everyone and their brother is building clones, but this should be against the law. They will even ''age'' it for you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4553646239&category=10076 I am curious, how many of you would consider building a clone and what is your age? I ask age because it seems like younger guys who build clones see nothing wrong with it. Personally I think it takes away from original cars, I mean you go to a show to see rare stuff and it takes the fun out of it. I would much rather look at a dozen Malibus and one SS versus a dozen fakes. I would bet there are more ''SS'' cars on the road now then there ever were built originally!! Sorry to vent, but I had to get this out of my system.
RE: [Chevelle-list] carter AFB
Any brand carb can be made to run very well – Qjet, Holley, Carter, Edelbrock, assuming it is in good working condition. Each brand has its own tuning process. I’ve always used Holley vacuum secondary carbs with good results. If you’re new at carburetors, the best carb to use might be the brand that your buddy has who knows how to tune his – ie, if your friend is good with Holleys, don’t use a Carter/QJet/Edelbrock. If they’re good with Qjets, get a Qjet… etc. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of bob howard Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 7:30 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] carter AFB Tell me the difference. I'm new at the engine /restore game. ive been told carters are no good and the holleys are no good. I just want the most bang for my buck!! this motor ive got is at least 375 horse maybe more. the guy that built it works for a motor building co. in Okla. City and guarantys 375, with headers and the holley. I dont know anything about setting up a carb. tell me the diff. I'm not set in stone as to what to do. thanks ,i mean it !! Bob ---Original Message--- From: The Chevelle Mailing List Date: 06/03/05 17:14:44 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] carter AFB HI, I think the AFB is worth a second look, sell the Holley instead! - Original Message - From: bob howard To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 2:09 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] carter AFB Hay guys. I just bought a 350 375 horse engine for my 65 chevelle to replace the mild 283. anyway, it came with a carter afb with 125 jets. and a set of 65 holley jets. i have the duel line holley that came on the 283 that i think i'll put on the 350. what is this carter worth? It looks real good shiny and everything seems to be there.any ideas or offers ? let me know. It was not installed when i got it,just in a box Bob 64 and 65 SS Chevelle's
RE: [Chevelle-list] Power Big Meet
I have one of those videos.. It was in a 911. Pretty cool. I think I might even have a second one, but I remember it being a little cheesier in some way. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed Riggins Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 3:43 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Power Big Meet Have any of you seen those underground "Getaway in Stockholm" videos? If not, do yourself a favor and find one. I think they are made in the fall and released around October. Powerful cars, powerful driving, and total anarchy... Ed > From: Michael Heiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2005 06:50:40 -0700 > To: > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Power Big Meet > > ...only in my dreams... > > Have fun! > > __ > > Mike Heiser > 1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El Camino > Chevelle & El Camino Club of Oregon > ACES #6659; Team Chevelle #2712 > > > > >> From: "Pelle Andersson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List >> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" >> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Power Big Meet >> Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 11:44:38 +0200 >> >> http://www.bigmeet.com/ >> >> Anyone going to the Power meet in Sweden? >> __ >> Chevelle gearheads >> http://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ >> >> > > _ > Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! > http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Hotchkis springs
Ron, I used Hotchkis small-block springs (iron head SB in my car) along with the B-body spindles and my car sits noticeably lower than stock. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Sparks Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 5:54 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Hotchkis springs yeah I new that the brakes won't effect hight - and I was afraid that they wouldn't fit B-Body spindles.. The springs are Hotchkis #1916F "Lower your GM A-Body 1" Below stock ride height to give it the right look, with an aggressive stance and a lower center of gravity. Our springs provide a firm, but not harsh ride. Each gray powder coated spring is precision wound using the highest quality steel. Specs: 1" Lowered Front 500 lb/in, Motor: Big Block Applications: GM A-Body" I'll check out the Fat Man spindles. thanks! From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 10:26 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Hotchkis springs It should go without saying but the Baer brake kit has nothing to do with the ride height. Who made those front springs? Stock height or lowered? You need to install both sides and drive the car some to let it settle a little bit. Remember that your old springs have most likely sagged and if you installed stock height new springs,the car will probably sit higher than with the old units. If it were my car,I would pass on the B-body spindle change. Order some Fat Man Fab taller A-body spindles,instead. No,the Baer brake kit you have will not fit B-body spindles. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Ron Sparks Just looking fr some insights... I just installed new a new spring and Baer disc on one side (driver) of my '66, but I'm not getting the drop I was expecting. I've got a big block (iron heads) so I ordered the big block springs. The Baer kit was a bolt on to the factory drum spindals. It measures 15 1/2 inches from the floor to the bottom of the front bumper (the hood is off, but it shouldn't matter that much). Maybe it will drop a bit more once I get the other side done, but I doubt it. Should/can I swap to B body (or aftermarket) spindals? Does anyone know if my baers will bolt on ok? Or should I cut the springs or order the ones for the bb with aluminum heads (though long term I plan on getting a set of new heads)? Other news- my tremec 5 speed is in route! Can't wait to get my hands on that thing. Herb, thanks for the play-by-play on your web site. It's given me a good idea of what I'm getting into. Ron
RE: [Chevelle-list] Paint the damper?
Paint it. You won’t have any trouble. I’d suggest painting the TDC line white (assuming you’re painting the balancer a proper Chevy orange) -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 12:37 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Paint the damper? Is that a bad idea? I'm a bit concerned that I might get vibration/balance problems if I paint it? Best regards Pelle __ Chevelle gearheads http://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
RE: [Chevelle-list] mountain passes
You're on the right track. The reason you lose power the higher you go is that the air is thinner (less dense). In a given volume of air, there is less oxygen. With less oxygen, you want to put in less fuel to maintain a constant air-fuel ratio. I'm guessing you're confused about the idea of leaning it out. You don't really want to lean out the mixture per se, but rather, you want to maintain the proper air-fuel ratio, and at higher altitudes, this means removing fuel since nature is providing less oxygen. If you have a given air-fuel ratio of 14.7:1 (stoichometric, or chemically-correct) and lean it out to 16:1 or 17:1, yes, you should see better mileage, and slightly less power. Hope this helps.. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Kiernan Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 12:17 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] mountain passes James Colgan wrote: > > I think you would want to lean out the fuel mixture the higher you > go . because the air gets thinner. less air less fuel.:) Is that true? I've never understood how it works. I have the idea that leaning it out gives you better mpg but costs you in power, and the problem with mountain passes is that you lose horsepower the higher you go. So I'm thorougly confused. (Nothing new).
RE: [Chevelle-list] Heads?
What you describe sounds like nothing more than a simple exhaust leak. Check the header/manifold gaskets first. If you have headers, check the collector gaskets too. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 4:57 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Heads? The ticking only occurs when I accelerate and put some load on the engine. For example when I'm accelerating a bit hard from a redlight or making a quick takeover on the highway. Never when i cruise (at least I can't hear it). But I'll follow your advise an check the engine first! It might need an overhaul? Best Regards Pelle >From: "Brad Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List >To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" >Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Heads? >Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 16:41:57 -0700 > >Aluminum heads are fine. The ticking could be a lifter going bad, a rocker >that is getting loose, a worn lobe on the cam (causing the rocker to be >loose), a bent valve or pushrod (again causing the rocker to be loose), and >more. Before you swap out heads, you need some more diagnostic work to see >what might be going on. Static compression, leakdown test, check the valve >lift, check the valve lash, then you can worry about pulling the intake and >heads and looking for more things. > >I ran unleaded with my old iron heads for years and I never saw any >problems. I've been told that the problems are only for those who run the >car for long periods at high load (such as racing) or high RPM. If you are >driving it hard and having fun, you are probably OK with unleaded fuel. > >Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) > >'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 >'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX > > > -Original Message- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > > Pelle Andersson > > Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:25 AM > > To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net > > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Heads? > > > > Aluminium heads on a cast iron block? > > Is that a bad idea? > > I've got a beginning ticking sound i one of the valves so I'm > > planning to either restor the heads or buying new > > aluminium race prepped heads. I also want to be able to > > run the car on unleaded fuel! > > > > Have any of you any experiences fo aluminium drive shafts? > > Pros, cons? > > > > What is your suggestion? > > > > _ > > Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! > > http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ > > > > > > > > > _ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
RE: [Chevelle-list] trany change?
They did make a TH350C, which was a TH350 with a lock-up torque converter in the early 80s. They are typically avoided for any sort of performance application. A lock-up torque converter is NOT overdrive. I agree with Bill, this shop should probably be avoided with answers like that. I like the 200r4 too – in theory. I just don’t know anyone who is running one. The fact that they are the same overall length as a Powerglide/TH350 should make the swap a little easier than a 700r4. I also like the narrower gear split from 1st to 2nd (2.74, 1.57) , compared to the wide split in a 700r4 (3.06, 1.57) The 700r4 or 200r4 do not need a computer. The 700r4 was later referred to as the 4L60. If you get a 4L60E (E=Electronic), you will need a computer. Hope this helps… -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Lessenberry Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 10:40 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] trany change? t 09:28 AM 5/10/2005, you wrote: Here it is! Ive got a 64 SS chevelle with a 327 350hp with a power glide. What would a guy do,either 700r4 or a 350 (with lock up 4th gear??) I just got off the phone with a guy who says a 350 lock up is the same as a over drive.and says it would be cheaper than a 700r4. any ideas?he says a kit will be needed since no computer is there. I would like to make this a daily driver but alittle cheaper on gas. any help would be great!!! Bob Never heard of a 350 with 4 gears or a lock up, I think I'd avoid that shop. I'd check into a 200R4 if I were you. It'll hold up fine behind your small block (even a mild big block) it gives you the overdrive and it will bolt in using your stock cross member. A buddy just did this with his Elky, and he's very pleased. He got the trans from TCI with a 2500 Street Fighter converter. BL
RE: [Chevelle-list] 396 Build
If you’re in Ohio, both Summit and Jegs are in-state. If you’re in northeast Ohio, I can personally recommend Michael’s Racing Engines in Macedonia (between Cleveland-Akron), and also believe that Gellner Engineering in Cleveland (Brookpark) has a solid reputation. Both could probably recommend a good head for your setup. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of RJ Winkler Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 8:31 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] 396 Build Do you know a good place to get heads? Im in ohio and am not really sure where to go or who to ask/buy from. Thanks -RJ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 8:23 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 396 Build In a message dated 5/9/2005 6:18:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hey guys, I got my big block and its being machined for my 69. I was wondering what setups you guys choose if you’ve built a 396 and how much it cost. I’m looking for a street setup that makes some good hp (350 to 400) with an economy price tag (17 year old). Big questions are rectangle port or oval for the heads and what are the good years or good ids, what type pistons (looking for around 10 to 1 compression), what kind of cam, and what years/engine used the same 396 crank? What parts are safe to buy used and what to buy new? Thanks for all your help -RJ I built a 475 HP 454 for a grand total of $2500. That included buying the core and having it completly machined. I used stock oval port heads and ported & polished them. I used TRW 2465 pistons and a crane powermax cam 286/296 adv. duration with a lift of .534/.553. I used a stock cast crank and stock rods, Edlebrock Performer RPM intake, Holley 3310, and a stock HEI distributor. It was plenty to make the car run 12.72 in the 1/4 mile. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] what is a smuggler box?
John, the spare tire goes behind the passenger seat on a 68-72. That compartment is no where near big enough for a tire. From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 11:14 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] what is a smuggler box? It's behind the driver's seat in the 68-72 El Caminos. Presumably for the spare tire. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of bob howard Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 10:08 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] what is a smuggler box? Hay Clint ,you have referred to a smuggler box on a car.this is a new term to me. What and where is it and on what car are you referring to. just for my info. Thanks Bob PS Hows the broke limb? <>
RE: [Chevelle-list] If it wasn't for bad luck,,,
Broken bone? Right foot? Just how hard have you been mashing the loud pedal?? Sorry to hear of your bad luck. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2005 11:50 AM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] If it wasn't for bad luck,,, I wouldn't have any luck,at all. Walking across the room last night,I felt something pop in my right foot. Pain was instantaneous and my first thought was I had snapped an Achilles tendon. Off to the ER and after x-rays,it looks like the main load-bearing bone just broke. Waiting to see an orthopedic specialist today. I'm facing possible surgery and even if I dodge that bullet,will be looking at least 6-8 weeks off work. Being a shift-worker,the cut in pay is bad enough but there is a good chance I might have to stay home & miss Chevellabration next month. Now,I'm really concerned. Have never broken any bones in my life until now and to do it while simply walking is a tough pill to swallow. Sorry for the venting but this really pisses me off. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
I think you really need to get a timing pointer and timing tape. Less than $20 for both. At 2.45 a gallon. It’s less than a half-tank. There’s nothing harder than trying to guess. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 12:47 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold Well, she's definitely running like crap w/ the timing advanced. Significantly less power on takeoff and even more pinging. So, I think it’s the gas and not the distributor. I can try a couple of things for better spark like new plugs, cap and rotor. I saw regular going for $2.45/gal at one place today. Eek. John Nasta
RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold
Do you at least have a pointer for TDC? If so, then just get a timing tape for your balancer. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 7:42 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold I have a timing light. The problem is that there is no gauge on the timing cover. I guess they didn't have those in 1958. Right now it starts fine cold. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 12:19 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] vacuum advance hits manifold In a message dated 5/1/2005 11:23:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: p.s. Rick says to see if advancing the timing all the way makes it hard to start when hot or causes hesitation on the pedal. If not, then maybe the distributor is off after all. I'm still going to see if premium makes a difference as well. JN It will, that always happens, even if the engine is cold. Advancing it that far will also cause the engine to run hot. I would disconnect the vacuum advance and set the timing at 6 degrees advanced and see how it runs, then hook up the vacuum and get a total timing reading. If you don't have a timing light, you can also use a vacuum gauge and your ear to time it :-). Tom Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] Questions on 12 bolt rear...
Are you sure about the different driveshaft? I recall using my original driveshaft when I swapped from 10-bolt to 12-bolt. The different u-joint does seem to come to mind, though. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 2:15 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Questions on 12 bolt rear... [snip] 8. Does the driveshaft length change between a 10 bolt and a 12 bolt? Yes, the U Joints are also different Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] camaro article - ignore
Yeah, sometime color coding is not enough, at least in telecom stuff where it's possible to have a hundred wires. Sometime it's impractical to try and have leads for an ohmmeter at each end. I've sort of wanted a tone generator for my 'work' toolbox but never had to use one enough to justify it. I never really thought about using it for car wiring. Maybe I can justify one now. :-) -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 11:58 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] camaro article - ignore Uncrunk? Apostrophe D? Man this is confusing stuff... Thanks Dave. I guess when color-coding is not enough, you can always tone. Why not use an ohmmeter? John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Crazy Rusty Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 9:53 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] camaro article - ignore Hey Dave knew what I was talking about! I figured everyone toned (tone'd, audibly verified) their wires when troubleshooting... -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Studly Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 6:30 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] camaro article - ignore In telecom and networking, 'toning' a wire can be used to identify ends of wires in multi-wire cabling. A signal generator is hooked to one end, and a probe is used to pickup the signal at the other end, resulting in a repeating tone being generated from the signal. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Knight Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 9:05 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] camaro article - ignore John, I think that is when you have two wires and you uncrunk one of them. >From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List >To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" >Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] camaro article - ignore >Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 20:35:04 -0400 > >Toned? Never heard that one before. > > > _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
RE: [Chevelle-list] camaro article - ignore
In telecom and networking, 'toning' a wire can be used to identify ends of wires in multi-wire cabling. A signal generator is hooked to one end, and a probe is used to pickup the signal at the other end, resulting in a repeating tone being generated from the signal. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Knight Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 9:05 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] camaro article - ignore John, I think that is when you have two wires and you uncrunk one of them. >From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List >To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" >Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] camaro article - ignore >Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 20:35:04 -0400 > >Toned? Never heard that one before. > > > _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
RE: [Chevelle-list] Age of the Chevelle owners
I’m 32 and got my ‘70 when I was 17 back in 1990. I can’t imagine ever getting rid of it. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of bob howard Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2005 10:55 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Age of the Chevelle owners Just sitting here thinking about the average age of the Chevelle guy or gal> Last week everyone wondered what everyone did for a living, I just wondered what the ages are,and when they got their fist Chevelle. My first Chevell was in Dec 2004 ,a 64 SS Chevelle 327 with 300 horse.Always wanted one and now i can have it. Im 54 years old,second childhood!!! Bob <>
RE: [Chevelle-list] Prices at Carlisle for Chevelles
I just got home from Carlisle -- to find almost a foot of snow! Holy crap.. I never made it to the car corral, but there was a couple Chevelles parked amongst the vendors, I think 71-72, both big-block 4sp cars, not original but very nice cars. They both had prices near 30k on the window and both were marked as sold by mid-day Saturday. I was a little surprised by that. I also saw that real nice looking black '67 parked very close to the car corral marked for 40k. Nice car, but I thought the guy was dreaming. Did it actually sell? This was my first spring at Carlisle, after doing several of the summer shows before it turned into a Harley fest and then the All-GM show the past 2 years. At least there were lots of vendors, unlike the above mentioned shows. Had the weather been better this morning, we might've walked around and looked in the car corral today. We decided to head home instead. If it wasn't for the fact that Carlisle is more a weekend away to hang with some friends that I don't get to see very often, I doubt I'd keep going. I went up there this year with the expectation I wouldn't buy much, and it turned out to be that way (didn't have much money this year). I bought a TBI unit to play with, since it was only $5, and a $20 in-dash CD player that is barely two years old. I hope it works -- it looks unmolested and wasn't out on the muddy ground. A lot of expense and effort for $25 in parts, though. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of J. Brady Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2005 8:43 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Prices at Carlisle for Chevelles We attended yesterday, and although it's still nice to get up there, I agree with the guy who said there's less car parts these days and more wallets/trinkets/crap. Also, I'm sad to say that I think that eBay has killed that Swap Meet. Every time I heard someone mention that website I wanted to puke. It makes you feel like you should sit at home and look up their inventory on the auction page. Aside from that, it was still fun to look around at all of the stuff for sale. Everyone was packing up at the end of the day though, so I felt bad for anyone who was planning on attending Sunday! Jim --- James Colgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I was at Carlisle yesterday (Saturday) and over at > the car coral there was a lot of empty spaces. I > thought it was the bad weather from Friday night? or > maybe it was the Barrett Jackson virus ? what's 30k > when an L-S6 goes for 300k. anyhow I agree, even > though I enjoy Carlisle I think Englishtown is a > better deal. > > > Jimmy .C > - Original Message - > From: Wayne > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2005 11:21 AM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Prices at Carlisle > for Chevelles > > > I went out Friday,, and it was wet a drizzely all > day... The number of nos for early model Chevelles > seems to have hit an all time LOW and the few I did > inquire about were priced $$$ big time with the > EBAY being the 2nd sentence the muttered > example... That set (pair )of early deluxe seal > belts.. . > How much for the seal belts ? > 300.00 ... > Is the best price ??? >YUP firm I can get four to five hundred on EBAY.. > Thanks... ( then why would you drag it hear ,pay > thief high sellers spot fee sit in the cold and rain > to loose MONEY $%%$%%. > As for the car Coral... Just going Friday.. most > cars were not sold with 70's BBcars leading the pack > in price then 71 and 72 not far behind.. > The early 64/65 shoed up with some high sticker > prices, same as a few driver 68SS cars . a few > 67 in the 40K range both were black and no doc's ? > I have always viewed spring Carlisle as a fishing > trip with better prices in the fall,, but with > the Car Craze at full tilt and the demand getting > greater, Fall prices seem stable as compared to > Spring... IMO > > With that said, BARGAINS are few and far between > and the prices at big event like Carlisle = the top > end of the value for these cars... > > Wayne > > - Original Message - > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net > Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2005 10:13 AM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Prices at Carlisle > for Chevelles > > > In a message dated 4/23/2005 10:05:30 AM Eastern > Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Anyone go to Carlisle? > > Reason I asked is that I went up both Thursday > and Friday looking for parts > yada yada > pretty cold on Thursday so my first purchase > was 5 sweat shirts at a dollar > each... heck rags are > that expensive... BUT the asking prices in > the Car Coral were n
RE: [Chevelle-list] get off - how to Un-Subscribe
I *have* been here long enough, probably longer than almost everyone short of Dale McIntosh. I just think that if someone wants off, especially if they’re pissy about it, show ‘em the door (with a link) which will get them out of here that much faster. I just find it odd since everyone is helpful in just about every other way. “You can check out anytime you like, but you can never leave…” Ok, I’m off to dry my blanket now… :-) -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Lessenberry Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 4:01 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] get off - how to Un-Subscribe At 02:26 PM 4/21/2005, you wrote: I know Im going to sound like a wet blanket here, but for all the times people ask for help unsubscribing, people get mocked, the Craft-o-Matic instructions, yada yada yada, everything except the answer theyre looking for.. how about a simple link? Ive never understood why people who want to unsubscribe are given such a hassle about it.. To un-subscribe: http://chevelles.com/lists/#145 -Dave Tradition--that's why. Perhaps you haven't been here long enough to remember how some folks were real pi$$y about the list. It started with them, and now it just goes on. Besides, a lot of us find it funny. Now, go dry your blanket. BL
RE: [Chevelle-list] get off - how to Un-Subscribe
I know I’m going to sound like a wet blanket here, but for all the times people ask for help unsubscribing, people get mocked, the Craft-o-Matic instructions, yada yada yada, everything except the answer they’re looking for.. how about a simple link? I’ve never understood why people who want to unsubscribe are given such a hassle about it.. To un-subscribe: http://chevelles.com/lists/#145 -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 2:13 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] get off sigh. drumroll... - Original Message - From: Souza To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 11:52 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] get off i want to get off this list.. what is the mail to unsubscribe?
RE: [Chevelle-list] Off-topic question on why trans consumes fluid whenno leak
There's not many places it can go. Are you sure it isn't leaking? Check the trans cooler lines. Also, open up the radiator. It's possible for it to leak into the radiator, which would be bad. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Usher Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 10:59 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Off-topic question on why trans consumes fluid whenno leak I have an 89 Buick LeSabre automatic trans on a 3.8L V6. It does not leak but consumes transmission fluid pretty quick. Where is this fluid going and what is potentially wrong? I appreciate any help you may provide. John 69 SS
RE: [Chevelle-list] Tires
Call me Mr. Everywhere with Radial T/As on my Chevy Rally wheels. :-) But I don't park my car in 'show' area at shows. It's always in the regular parking lot. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 5:35 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Tires I think the Cragar SS's have finally been passed by Torque Thrust. Mike - Original Message - From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Rick Schaefer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 12:21 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Tires > So are Cragar SS and GM Rally wheels. > Clint Hooper > H&H Custom,owner > 1969 El Camino ProTourer > 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > - Original Message - > From: "Rick Schaefer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > My problem with the Radial T/As is that they are everywhere. > Probably 2/3rds of the cars at any show will have them installed. > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Alternators
From www.chevelles.com, in the Tech Reference area, article #4 in the Engines (and attached accessories) section.. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref14.html I did my conversion last summer. (2004) -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Bradley Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 4:59 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Alternators I'm interested! Bill Bradley 67 Malibu Edmond Oklahoma "D.R. Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I used a CS130 alternator on my 72 Monte Carlo, direct fit with pulley change. M&H supplied the correct connections in the new wiring harness I purchased from them. D.R. Jones Dave Studly wrote: > I upgraded my '70 to a 105-amp CS-series alternator. I didn't buy a > conversion harness. It was a pretty simple upgrade that only took an hour > or two. I had to change the pulley and splice a couple wires together that > I removed from the clip on the external regulator. There's a pretty good > web page about it on chevelles.com, I think. I'll dig out the one I used if > you're interested. > > -Dave > > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Buckingham > Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 6:07 AM > To: Chevelle-List ([EMAIL PROTECTED] Net); [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Net > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Alternators > > I have anew harness from M&H that they modified for an internal regulator. > I am wondering what alternator people use that have done this conversion. > > Thanks, > > Jim Buckingham > > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Alternators
I upgraded my '70 to a 105-amp CS-series alternator. I didn't buy a conversion harness. It was a pretty simple upgrade that only took an hour or two. I had to change the pulley and splice a couple wires together that I removed from the clip on the external regulator. There's a pretty good web page about it on chevelles.com, I think. I'll dig out the one I used if you're interested. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Buckingham Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 6:07 AM To: Chevelle-List ([EMAIL PROTECTED] Net); [EMAIL PROTECTED] Net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Alternators I have anew harness from M&H that they modified for an internal regulator. I am wondering what alternator people use that have done this conversion. Thanks, Jim Buckingham
RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Arm rest color
Title: Message Chuck, my ’70 which has a mostly original interior has matching color for the armrest base and the armrest itself. Both are blue. The door panels and dash pad are also blue. My seats have been recovered, so I can’t help you there. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck Speake Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 9:22 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Arm rest color Sorry Mike, for some reason I couldn't get a new question sent so I tagged onto one of yours. Does anyone know the correct color combinations for the arm rest base and pad on a 70 Chevelle Malibu? Are they both the same color? If so are they the color of the door panel and seats, or the color of the dash? Third possibility is the base the color of the dash with the pad the color of the door panel and seats? There are three colors that match different locations in my interior Light Saddle, Saddle, and Dark Saddle. The dash is Saddle, and the seats Light Saddle would the Dark Saddle even come into play here? Thanks Chuck 70 Chevelle Malibu Glen Ellyn, IL.
RE: [Chevelle-list] gasoline prices
Title: For a living results. Personally, I’ve always compared the cost of a gallon of gas to the cost of a gallon of milk, as I consider them both daily ‘essentials’. The good news is I managed to fill up yesterday at 1.99/gallon. The bad news is, I was happy about it! I saw milk at a convenience store for 2.69/gallon the other day. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 9:15 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] gasoline prices Think a gallon of gas is expensive? This makes one think, and also puts things in perspective. Diet Snapple 16 oz $1.29 ... $10.32 per gallon Lipton Ice Tea 16 oz $1.19 ... $9.52 per gallon Gatorade 20 oz $1.59 .. $10.17 per gallon Ocean Spray 16 oz $1.25 ... $10.00 per gallon Brake Fluid 12 oz $3.15 ... $33.60 per gallon Vick's Nyquil 6 oz $8.35 ... $178.13 per gallon Pepto Bismol 4 oz $3.85 ... $123.20 per gallon Whiteout 7 oz $1.39 ... $25.42 per gallon Scope 1.5 oz $0.99 ... $84.48 per gallon Evian water 9 oz $1.49... $21.19 per gallon?! $21.19 for WATER - and the buyers don't even know the source. (Evian spelled backwards is Naive.) So, the next time you're at the pump, be glad your car doesn't run on water, Scope, or Whiteout, or God forbid Pepto Bismol or Nyquil.
RE: [Chevelle-list] engine
Just for clarification, only 4-bolt blocks (70-73) will have three freeze (core) plugs. The others will have the regular 2 freeze plugs. You can also check the casting number of the block, but the balancer is usually the quickest/easiest way to identify a 400. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gene's General Restoration Parts Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 2:39 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] engine Hi, Harmonic balancer will have a relief notch for balancing purposes, the flex plate/flywheel will also have a large wieght and there is also a dowel pin to locate the fly wheel to the crank. The blocks usually have three core plugs down the sides instead of two like the normal s/b. If heads are off, the bore should be 4.125 and the heads should have steam hole betwen the cylinders. You can also find the number code on the front pass. side deck above where the water pump bolts and look it up in a repair manual. Hope this helps Gene Smith a.k.a. usa1chevelleguy Visit my Home Page or eBay Store for deals on restoration parts from Gene's General Store www.genesgeneralrestorationparts.com or Toll Free 866-347-2181 Mon. - Fri. 8a.m. - 6p.m. EST Closed Weekends FAX 260-495-9240 - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 1:20 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] engine i was going to go look at a chevy 400 engine for sale, wondering how i could tell for sure its a 400 and not a 305,350-etc? thanks!! Harlan
RE: [Chevelle-list] Just 64-72? was: New to the El Camino world ( tell it like it is)
I don’t think anyone has ever had their posts deleted because it wasn’t 64-72 related. With that said, I believe 99% of the list owns (or wants to own) a 64-72 model. If one has a 73-87 model, there might be better lists or forums available, but all are welcome here. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 10:50 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] New to the El Camino world ( tell it like it is) In a message dated 4/12/2005 9:15:36 AM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: this is a chevelle list , 64 to 72 only,, IS THIS A TRUE STATEMENT??
RE: [Chevelle-list] New to the El Camino world ( tell it like it is)
My sentiments exactly. Let’s get back to talking cars. EFI update: My EFI system is running and drivable. I drove my car about 50-60 miles over the weekend with zero problems. It’s not fully tuned, but it starts and drives. I’m stuck with base timing of 10 degrees (no mechical or vacuum advance) for the time being. My Megasquirt-II processor showed up, which will allow me to do computer controlled timing too, but something didn’t work right and I had to ship it back. It’s pretty cool when you start the car from stone cold and it idles perfect… :-) -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 9:53 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] New to the El Camino world ( tell it like it is) The key lesson for us from this post is to respect another's passion for whatever vehicle spins their wheels. I came of age(turned sixteen) in 1967. My passion has always been for the cars built between 64/67, with the 65 being the apple of my eye. I did not care for the change that took place in the Chevelles in 68. Even today they are somewhat so so to my eye. It's all in your personal perspective. I have learned to love all the old cars, yes even some of the F--ds. And I have seen some really well done late model El Caminos. It's all about the passion. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 9:11 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] New to the El Camino world ( tell it like it is) Beauty is in the eye of the Beholder! I had a documented! Protecto-Plate 1970 SS, and sold it for a good coin and bought a 1968 SS undocumented except for VIN tag. My beleif is a "68" is great because there aren't as many on the road, and I'm not like 3 other Velle's in the subdivision!!! Not chiming in to argue, just voicing what is fact. Sincerely, Jeff Wysocki -- Original message -- In a message dated 4/11/2005 12:30:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: WELL LARRY ITS A 69 POST BIG BLOCK WHICH WOULD BLOW YOUR'S AWAY, IN VALUE, AND LOOKS SO MIND YOUR OWN BUISNESS Big stinkin' deal. I know 3 guys that have the same car and unless it has documentation it's considered a CLONE. Besides, everyone knows that 1970 is the best looking and most desirable. Regardless, you're still a dick. Hey, you're the one that says speak the truth, well there it is. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] New to the El Camino world ( tell it like it is)
I try to stay out of things like this, but copocloner did come off sounding a bit harsh. The original poster was just trying to get a recommendation for a local mechanic to fix some carb issues. Sorry, I don’t know any Florida mechanics. Frankly, I’d love to find a good 78-87 Elky for a daily driver. If there’s a rust-free one around for $800, I’d buy it. I miss the ease of hauling things I had with my ’72. V8 power, it ain’t 5000+ lbs like a full-size pickup, and it’ll fit in my 20-foot deep garage. Perfect for urban rednecks like me. :-) -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 11:36 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] New to the El Camino world ( tell it like it is) Better put on your flame suit,dude. I think you're going to need it. The truth hurts,I agree,but you come off as an insensitive jerk. No offense,of course. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] why invest 5k in a 800 dollar car,,, when you can find a 4200 dollar car and invest 800 bucks, this is simple math,, dont make a lot of sense , you cant make a silk purse from a sow's ear, let alone a scrotum sack like the 79 elcamino, im sure one day it might become a collector, but not in my life cloner p/s welcome to the list where you will hear the truth even if it hurts, a least from me
RE: [Chevelle-list] Carpet Cleaners
Holy crap.. after all the wiring I just did for my EFI, I can't imagine doing anything like that. Using Posi-Lok connectors is somewhat rigged in my book. The only thing duct tape should be used for would be to hold down your wiring once it is inside some flexible conduit! Your pressure washing the carpet has me intrigued. However, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna find some depressing floor rot if I take mine out. My carpet looks like crap after having an oil pressure line fail and also a heater core in the past 15 years. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Crazy Rusty Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 11:35 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Carpet Cleaners I took that carpet out and pressure washed it. Overall it made a huge difference. It didn't get all the nasty stains out but it looks 100 times better. Thanks for the suggestions! On another note, I know you all appreciate good wiring. Check out the sweet duct tape job I found on the stereo. I found after taking the pic and working on it that they just looked crimped, the connections were just sitting in there with little pieces of duct tape stuffed in... nicceee. http://www.crazyrusty.com/vehicles/85camaro/pics.htm -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed Riggins Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 2:04 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Carpet Cleaners Know how you feel, and appreciate that... ER > From: Crazy Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, The Chevelle Mailing List > > Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 13:40:37 -0800 > To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Carpet Cleaners > > I just bought new carpets for my Chevelle when I started that project. This > is actually for an 85 Z28 that I have fixed up am going to sell. If I can't > get the stuff out then it will just stay in. I don't like selling dirty or > broken vehicles though. > > - JB > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed Riggins > Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 10:46 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Carpet Cleaners > > I think new carpets are only about $100 and after the aggro of removal and > installation might be better than trying to make something 30 years old look > OK again. ER > > >> From: Crazy Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, The Chevelle Mailing List >> >> Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 13:09:22 -0800 >> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' >> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Carpet Cleaners >> >> Actually that is one of the ones I tried. Did ok on regular stains on the >> carpet and seats but nothing to the dug in stuff. >> >> I think I am going to take it out and pressure wash it as Keith suggested. >> >> Thanks, >> JB >> >> -Original Message- >> From: Walter Jr Rutland [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 12:08 PM >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List >> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Carpet Cleaners >> >> Try Tuff Stuff, it is a couple bucks at most stores with automotive >> sections. I have used it for years on all kinds of stains, works pretty > well >> in preventing stains as also. >> >> >> - Original Message - >> From: "Crazy Rusty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" >> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Carpet Cleaners >> Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 20:34:45 -0800 >> >>> >>> Well I searched through my year of Chevelle list e-mails and couldn't > find >>> anything about carpet cleaning so.. >>> >>> >>> >>> Anyone have any suggestions for getting out dug in dirt and filfth? >> I've >>> tried two things from the auto store with no luck. They work ok with the >>> seats but not with the carpet. I just tried oxyclean which worked great >>> with the seats but once again did nothing to the carpet. >>> >>> >>> >>> Any Ideas? >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> JB >> >> -- >> ___ >> NEW! Lycos Dating Search. The only place to search multiple dating sites > at >> once. >> http://datingsearch.lycos.com >> >> >> > > > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Ever had one of those days?
Wow, everyone's going old school on the oil filters. I know we have one of those canister types on Dad's '63 Vette. I don't think I'd ever want one on my Chevelle, unless it was an emergency situation, like Brad's. Saturday, I went to the BMV to renew the plates on my Chevelle and motorcycle. I didn't have to wait in line at all. That was the good part. The reason I didn't have to wait in line is because everyone else stayed home while a foot of snow fell throughout the day. It had been in the high 60s two days prior. So I didn't get to do any tuning. It was in the 50s or 60s again today and everything melted, so I did get to do some driving and datalogging tonight. At the end of the night, the car started and drove better than when I started. That felt good. -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] the 69 Camaro convertible body saga
I think in the long run, these things will be good. My friend and I, who grew up next door to each other and each bought our Chevelles in 1990. He had to sell his while we were in college, but he's looking to get another one now. We are amazed at what we see some cars going for on ebay. Insane prices for otherwise undeserving (plain-jane, rusted) cars. I think the availability of this kind of stuff will help to even out the market. The market for our cars only gets bigger every year, and Barrett Jackson, along with Monster Garage/Pimp my Ride/Overhaulin/etc are helping to fuel the popularity. And the supply keeps dwindling as cars rust, get cut up into race cars, wrecked, etc. I hope they make a '70 convertible some day. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 3:27 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] the 69 Camaro convertible body saga Although the cost would be high..I think these build your own 69 camaros would be worth it. You start from scratch and buy the options you want..the suspension, drivetrain, interior..no not a stocker but a nice $XX,XXX.XX car that is brand new. Way better than most GM offerings these days..can you say new GTO? yuck.. Instead most of us have to shell out good money to find a good solid car..then add the same $XX,XXX.XX to make it close to new? Walt http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Monday, April 4, 2005 3:16 pm Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] the 69 Camaro convertible body saga > I might be interested when Dynacorp builds the Camaro coupe body. > The only > ragtops I like are Corvettes. > Clint Hooper > H&H Custom,owner > 1969 El Camino ProTourer > 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > - Original Message - > From: "mike f" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > I'll tell ya what. I have always been a Chevelle fan > > more so than Camaro. But I'd think about it for a new > > body 1969 built however I wanted. My checkbook would > > be the only limit. How about you? > > mike fry > > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Dyno 2000 help
Steve, Int Lift @ Valve is the max lift for the intake valve. Exh Lift at Valve is the max lift for the exhaust valve. Seat-to-Seat timing (also sometimes called advertised duration) is the amount of rotation, in degrees the valve is open. Duration at .050" is the amount of time the valve is open at least .050". Advertised duration numbers are rated at varying lifts by different manufactuers. Duration @ .050" is supposed to provide a standard by which to compare cams from different companies. The others, IVO/EVO are Intake/Exhaust Valve Opening, And IVC/EVC are Intake/Exhaust Valve Closing. These are the very numbers that define a camshaft, along with max lift. You would derive the duration numbers from these numbers. The numbers for all these figures are on the cam card. You say you have an LS-6 solid cam. http://www.compcams.com/information/WhatsNew/Press/NOSTALGI.PDF Look at Grind # 11-671-4. It doesn't list the IVO/EVO/IVC/EVC numbers, but I'm sure Comp could tell you via email or over the phone. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 3:31 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Dyno 2000 help Hello, I was trying out Dyno 2000 on my computer and was trying to figure out my engine specs. I'm having trouble figuring out what I need to put in the various boxes. The cylinder head section shouldn't be too hard to figure out. I'm running an Edelbrock Performer dual plane manifold (Square port/ closed chamber). I figure I can probably get the specs I need from their website once I figure out the exact one I have. The trick is the cam specs I'm running an LS-6 Solid cam. I can't figure out what numbers I need to use for "Int Lift @ Valve" and Exh Lift @ Valve". I'm also not sure the difference between seat-to-seat timing and 0.050 lift. The other part I'm not sure about is the "IVO (BTDC),EVO (BBDC), IVC(ABDC), and EVC(ATDC). The default values seems to be "31.0, 67.0, 67.0, and 31.0" respectively. Should I leave those values? Thanks for your help. Obviously, I never assembled an engine before. I am looking for an upgrade for my tired LS5 and spoke with Ohio Crankshaft. They suggested a Merlin III 548ci short block with my Edelbrock heads. In the long run, I should probably ditch the LS6 cam for something else, No? BTW, does anyone have anything to say (Pro or Con) about Ohio Crankshaft? Their short blocks seem much less expensive than the GM crate motor options and have more potential. Thanks Steve Lentz 70 SS454or more ;-)
[Chevelle-list] n/c, Dunlop 'treadheads'
Become a Dunlop ‘treadhead’ for a chance to win tires. http://biz.yahoo.com/prnews/050329/cltu042.html?.v=4 What will they think of next? -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI update, it runs! (long)
The TPI is a mish-mash of pieces. Base and plenum came from Carlisle, runners came for free from a friend, throttle body and fuel rails came from a guy on thirdgen.org The biggest problem I have is that the intake base is from an '87-newer F-body engine with the center pair of bolt holes at 72 degrees, instead of 90 degress (to intake face). I tried slotting the holes with my die grinder, but was unhappy with the results. I either need a Corvette intake, or an 85-86 F-body intake. Funny you mention how it might do on a 327, as that is where my TPI is likely to end up -- in my dad's '63 Vette. I don't if I'll get that far this summer, though. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 12:57 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] EFI update, it runs! (long) What did the TPI set-up come off of,Dave? Wonder how well it would work on a 327. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: "Dave Studly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I've only had it running with the Stealth Ram. I have enough parts to > assemble a TPI, but ultimately decided that it would be a restriction on my > 406. > > -Dave > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Hey Dave... have you fired up the motor with the stealth ram on it and the > tpi? Cyrious about your impressions on the stealth ram as it is one of the > ways I am looking for my own efi setup. > > Mike > > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI update, it runs! (long)
I've only had it running with the Stealth Ram. I have enough parts to assemble a TPI, but ultimately decided that it would be a restriction on my 406. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Capt Crunch Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 12:20 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI update, it runs! (long) Hey Dave... have you fired up the motor with the stealth ram on it and the tpi? Cyrious about your impressions on the stealth ram as it is one of the ways I am looking for my own efi setup. Mike
RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI update, it runs! (long)
Taking a quick glance at Summit’s web site, seems like complete kits start around $2300. More if you want it polished, and even more if you need really large injectors. (36 lb/hr or more) I’m not sure if the Holley computer will do spark-control, though. Yeah, the Stealth Ram definitely looks cool. Maybe by mid-summer, I’ll pick up the matching 58mm throttle body. ($400 for a simple throttle body – ouch!) The used TPI unit looks a little dingy between my new K&N and Stealth Ram. J -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 3:55 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] EFI update, it runs! (long) Thanks for the itemized list of parts and their cost. I really like the looks of the Stealth Ram but when it comes to understanding electronics & computers,I'm completely lost. What does Holley get for their complete Stealth Ram kit? Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dave Studly Clint, I wouldn’t say that I have a ton of either into this project. But, I’ll try to present a summary here.. Holley Stealth Ram intake + fuel rails $550 (new from Summit) Ford 30 lb/hr injectors $ 135 (ebay) TPI Throttle body ~~ $50 (thirdgen.org classifieds) MegaSquirt computer + Stimulator test unit -- $187 (software is free) – you solder it together Labeled wires - $55 (www.rs-autosport.com) Misc wiring + sensors including injector connectors, coolant temp sensor, inlet-air temp sensor, relays, etc -- $40 (some junkyard parts) O2 sensor, heated + connector (new) $85 ß dumb move, should’ve spent the money toward a wideband setup instead. Install O2 bung in header $20 Fuel pump (MSD-2225) and various plumbing supplies -- ~~ $120 TBI/TPI 8-pin HEI distributor -- $32 (ebay) Little extras, not sure – you’ve done enough projects, you know how little things add up. (ie—air filter, throttle cable, bolts, gaskets, fuel pressure gauge, etc) proably at least another $80-100. Soldering the MegaSquirt and Stimulator together took me about 8 hours total. I was a total soldering newbie. I sat down in the garage one day and listened to a couple baseball games on the radio while I did it. Went slow and took my time. Everything worked right the first time. The MegaManual has you build it in sections, testing your work as you go (power supply, communication, sensor inputs, injector outputs, etc). Building the wiring harness, because I pieced mine together, was somewhat involved – lots of splicing. However, after doing it once, I know how I’d do it again that would make it both look neater, make things easier and save time. Using the relay board probably would’ve made things easier. The fuel system also took some effort. I had to drop the gas tank to add a return line provision (thanks again, Kent). I ended up running two new 3/8” lines for fuel feed and return. The stock fuel line (5/16”) is not used in my setup. Aluminum hardline is *very* easy to work with – highly recommended. Also easy to kink. :-P I used an external inline pump. To give you a timeline, I never heard of MegaSquirt until the March 2004 article in Car Craft. Summer 2004 was spent building the computer and wiring harness, and gathering parts. October 2004, I removed the carb & intake, installed wiring harness & fuel pump in October, car sat Nov-Feb almost untouched (too cold). It is now March 2005 and I have a running car again. Part of what chewed up time on my project was sourcing things from ebay, junkyard, etc. And I work slow. There’s also a fair amount of reading. However, the MegaSquirt documentation is *excellent* and should have an answer to almost any question. If you’re considering this route, I highly recommend reading (or at least skimming) the manual before you buy a single piece. I’ve been interested in EFI for a long time, but Haltec, Motec, Electromotive, FAST, Accel are all huge dollars, just for the computer. GM factory computers are cheap, but sound like a pain to tune for a non-stock application. You gotta spend $250 on equipment just so you can burn a bunch of PROMs, and then have a pile of junk PROMs when you’re done. I’d really like to see Holley’s Commander 950. It sounds capable, but it’s still over $1000, I think. Also, if you’re going to do this, spend the extra money for a wide-band O2 sensor. Looking at my costs above, the computer is just a fraction of it. And if I had just put a TBI on top of my Performer RPM, it would’ve saved me a ton of money. The rest of it is going to cost the same, no matter whose setup you use to run it. This was a very fulfilling project for me. I was playing with computers and programming in basic long be
RE: [Chevelle-list] EFI update, it runs! (long)
Clint, I wouldn’t say that I have a ton of either into this project. But, I’ll try to present a summary here.. Holley Stealth Ram intake + fuel rails $550 (new from Summit) Ford 30 lb/hr injectors $ 135 (ebay) TPI Throttle body ~~ $50 (thirdgen.org classifieds) MegaSquirt computer + Stimulator test unit -- $187 (software is free) – you solder it together Labeled wires - $55 (www.rs-autosport.com) Misc wiring + sensors including injector connectors, coolant temp sensor, inlet-air temp sensor, relays, etc -- $40 (some junkyard parts) O2 sensor, heated + connector (new) $85 ß dumb move, should’ve spent the money toward a wideband setup instead. Install O2 bung in header $20 Fuel pump (MSD-2225) and various plumbing supplies -- ~~ $120 TBI/TPI 8-pin HEI distributor -- $32 (ebay) Little extras, not sure – you’ve done enough projects, you know how little things add up. (ie—air filter, throttle cable, bolts, gaskets, fuel pressure gauge, etc) proably at least another $80-100. Soldering the MegaSquirt and Stimulator together took me about 8 hours total. I was a total soldering newbie. I sat down in the garage one day and listened to a couple baseball games on the radio while I did it. Went slow and took my time. Everything worked right the first time. The MegaManual has you build it in sections, testing your work as you go (power supply, communication, sensor inputs, injector outputs, etc). Building the wiring harness, because I pieced mine together, was somewhat involved – lots of splicing. However, after doing it once, I know how I’d do it again that would make it both look neater, make things easier and save time. Using the relay board probably would’ve made things easier. The fuel system also took some effort. I had to drop the gas tank to add a return line provision (thanks again, Kent). I ended up running two new 3/8” lines for fuel feed and return. The stock fuel line (5/16”) is not used in my setup. Aluminum hardline is *very* easy to work with – highly recommended. Also easy to kink. :-P I used an external inline pump. To give you a timeline, I never heard of MegaSquirt until the March 2004 article in Car Craft. Summer 2004 was spent building the computer and wiring harness, and gathering parts. October 2004, I removed the carb & intake, installed wiring harness & fuel pump in October, car sat Nov-Feb almost untouched (too cold). It is now March 2005 and I have a running car again. Part of what chewed up time on my project was sourcing things from ebay, junkyard, etc. And I work slow. There’s also a fair amount of reading. However, the MegaSquirt documentation is *excellent* and should have an answer to almost any question. If you’re considering this route, I highly recommend reading (or at least skimming) the manual before you buy a single piece. I’ve been interested in EFI for a long time, but Haltec, Motec, Electromotive, FAST, Accel are all huge dollars, just for the computer. GM factory computers are cheap, but sound like a pain to tune for a non-stock application. You gotta spend $250 on equipment just so you can burn a bunch of PROMs, and then have a pile of junk PROMs when you’re done. I’d really like to see Holley’s Commander 950. It sounds capable, but it’s still over $1000, I think. Also, if you’re going to do this, spend the extra money for a wide-band O2 sensor. Looking at my costs above, the computer is just a fraction of it. And if I had just put a TBI on top of my Performer RPM, it would’ve saved me a ton of money. The rest of it is going to cost the same, no matter whose setup you use to run it. This was a very fulfilling project for me. I was playing with computers and programming in basic long before I could drive. This project was a marriage of sort between my two favorite hobbies. If you have any specific questions, I’ll be happy to answer. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 12:25 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] EFI update, it runs! Dave,how much time and money do you have invested in your EFI system? Cost and complexity is what keeps me from going that route,,so far. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dave Studly I’ve posted in the past about my project to convert my ’70 to EFI. The short story is, it runs! I built a MegaSquirt computer, along with my own wiring harness, bought a Holley Stealth Ram and a used TPI throttle body. Spark is by an 8-pin HEI distributor (TBI trucks 87-95, TPI/TBI camaros 87-92, ). Large-cap HEI won’t fit a Stealth Ram. Fuel system is an MSD-2225 fuel pump with 8 Ford 30 lb/hr injectors. Right now the motor is running on base timing, as the 8-
[Chevelle-list] EFI update, it runs!
I’ve posted in the past about my project to convert my ’70 to EFI. The short story is, it runs! I built a MegaSquirt computer, along with my own wiring harness, bought a Holley Stealth Ram and a used TPI throttle body. Spark is by an 8-pin HEI distributor (TBI trucks 87-95, TPI/TBI camaros 87-92, ). Large-cap HEI won’t fit a Stealth Ram. Fuel system is an MSD-2225 fuel pump with 8 Ford 30 lb/hr injectors. Right now the motor is running on base timing, as the 8-pin HEI is a computer controlled distributor. In short order, I’ll enable the ignition control and have fully adjustable fuel + spark control. I’m using the MSnS-Extra 021u3 firmware. I have it starting reliably now, and just took the first drive up the street. It still needs tuning. With the carb setup last June, I put down 308 RWHP on a Dynojet dyno. (open headers). We’ll see if I can do better with EFI. Rest of the motor: 406, 5.7 rods, Wiseco forged flat-tops, ’71 487X castings, Summit 234/244 .488/.510 lift cam. MegaSquirt web site, www.msefi.com Wiring supplies came from www.rs-autosport.com For those who are interested, it’s not a weekend-bolt-on, but it’s not impossible. I did it. If you can change an intake manifold and wire a car stereo properly, you can probably do this too. On to tuning… :-) -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] Carlisle, was: Refurbishing Steering Wheels
We usually hit the grounds on Friday and Saturday, sometimes Sunday too. Anyone else? Anyone.. anyone.. bueller.. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 8:41 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Carlisle, was: Refurbishing Steering Wheels We'll be there Friday... and use Thursday and Saturday incase thee calling for bad weather Wayne - Original Message - From: "Dave Studly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 10:47 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Carlisle, was: Refurbishing Steering Wheels > Speaking of Carlisle, is anyone going up there next month for the spring > event? I'm planning on heading up there with my usual group of friends, > although it's doubtful I'll be taking my Chevelle. > > -Dave > > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta > Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 10:19 AM > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Refurbishing Steering Wheels > > This guy is usually at Carlisle. I have seen his work and it looks > excellent. > > http://www.dealsonwheels.com/parts/garys/ > > John Nasta > > > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Krister Meister > Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 10:05 AM > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Refurbishing Steering Wheels > > > > > I have been looking for a factory steering wheel for my '66 SS and lost a > bidding war to the last second last night on a fairly decent black one. > My > interior is black and wondering if anyone has had a steering wheel > refurbished to a color matching their interior? Can a light blue one be > easily redone to black with lasting results? Any input whether you > refurbished yourself or sent it out would be appreciated. > > Also if anyone has a '66 steering wheel available let me know. '66 only > had 2 steering wheels - a wood wheel option and the standard wheel which > went in Malibu's and SS's alike. > > Thanks, > > Krister Meister > Bloomingdale, IL > '66 SS #'s > > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Carlisle, was: Refurbishing Steering Wheels
Speaking of Carlisle, is anyone going up there next month for the spring event? I'm planning on heading up there with my usual group of friends, although it's doubtful I'll be taking my Chevelle. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 10:19 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Refurbishing Steering Wheels This guy is usually at Carlisle. I have seen his work and it looks excellent. http://www.dealsonwheels.com/parts/garys/ John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Krister Meister Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 10:05 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Refurbishing Steering Wheels I have been looking for a factory steering wheel for my '66 SS and lost a bidding war to the last second last night on a fairly decent black one. My interior is black and wondering if anyone has had a steering wheel refurbished to a color matching their interior? Can a light blue one be easily redone to black with lasting results? Any input whether you refurbished yourself or sent it out would be appreciated. Also if anyone has a '66 steering wheel available let me know. '66 only had 2 steering wheels - a wood wheel option and the standard wheel which went in Malibu's and SS's alike. Thanks, Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s
[Chevelle-list] 12-bolt housing value?
Hey all, I have a 12 bolt housing that’s taking up space that I’d like to get rid of it. It is essentially a bare housing that needs cleaning/rebuilt. Any idea what I could expect to get for it? I have an open carrier and set of stock axles to include with it, but I personally wouldn’t use them. I haven’t measured it, but it was for my ’70. I’m in Cleveland, Ohio. -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] El Camino Frame
Title: Re: [Chevelle-list] El Camino Frame Are you sure about this? I believe El Caminos/Station Wagaons/4-doors all use a chassis with a 4-inch longer wheelbase. I imagine this would make it unusable for a 2-door, assuming one doesn’t want to cut ‘n weld frame components together. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed Riggins Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 6:44 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] El Camino Frame Rear section of the El Camino frame is longer. You should be able to adapt the rear off of yours if it isn’t destroyed... From: RJ Winkler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 18:05:26 -0500 To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] El Camino Frame Does anyone know if the el camino frame would work with a 69 chevelle 2 door hardtop? I found two frames at a junkyard and the el camino one is the better of the two but I’m pretty sure its not compatible. Thanks –RJ Winkler
RE: [Chevelle-list] want a 327 -- was looking fro a carb
I was wondering about that, because I’ve heard of this in regard to 305 and 350 cranks, that they shouldn’t be interchanged for that very reason. What was the end result with what you did? Vibrate like crazy, or just run poorly … ? -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dean Vandergriff Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 3:09 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] want a 327 -- was looking fro a carb If you go this route I’d look at balancing the motor. The 307 piston is a smaller bore & therefore a much lighter piston than the 327 used. The crank will have had fairly large holes drilled in it’s counterweights to lighten it up back when GM assembled it as a 307. I learned this one by accident many years ago. Dean From: Dave Studly [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 1:59 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] want a 327 -- was looking fro a carb Find a 350 block and a 307 crankshaft. That’ll give you a 327. People seem to give away 307s, so it shouldn’t be too tough to get one cheap or free. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 1:53 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] looking fro a carb 2 barrel carb i really want a 327 engine but i can't find one
RE: [Chevelle-list] want a 327 -- was, looking fro a carb
I don't think I've ever seen spacers to run a small journal crank in a large journal block. The rod journals are different too, (2.00" vs. 2.10", I believe) so you'd have a very oddball combination. The only crank spacers I've heard of are for running a 350 crank (2.45" mains) in a 400 block (2.65" mains) Elaborating on my other post, all 350s are large journal, and so are all 307s, which should eliminate any potential small-journal/large-journal interchange problems. People at swap meets with large journal 327s tend to think they have something special, and price their stuff accordingly. I am planning on doing this myself -- I picked up a 307 crank for free from a friend and can get a 350 block for peanuts. You'll need to buy 327 pistons. As a side note, I dropped off Dad's '63 Vette, red-on-red, 4 speed, to get the paint/body/interior/convertible top work done recently. This would be the home for my homemade 327, so as to save the original #'s-matching 327. I'm really excited to get the car back (early Summer, I'm told), as it has been parked with a bad frame since 1977, when I was 4. The car was mechanically restored back 2000-2001. I'm expecting a 99% finished car when we get it back. It'll look real nice parked next to my '70 !! :-) -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brad Olson Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 2:32 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] looking fro a carb -- Original message from [EMAIL PROTECTED]: -- > 2 barrel carb i really want a 327 engine but i can't find one Holley offers several replacement 2-barrels and Rochester 2Gs are still pretty easy to find because they're generally overlooked unless they're for 3x2 applications. Swap meets, speed shops (many have bulletin boards), and the dreaded eBay are all places to look. The 327 and 350 share the same block so if you can find a crank with a 3.25" stroke and 2.45" mains you can use it to build a 327 from a 350 block. The earlier 327s had 2.30" mains and I don't know if spacers exist to allow those cranks to be used in 2.45" blocks. Brad
RE: [Chevelle-list] want a 327 -- was looking fro a carb
Find a 350 block and a 307 crankshaft. That’ll give you a 327. People seem to give away 307s, so it shouldn’t be too tough to get one cheap or free. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 1:53 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] looking fro a carb 2 barrel carb i really want a 327 engine but i can't find one
RE: [Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Suspension
When you say what to buy – are you talking the parts, or also the tools to do so? If you’re rebuilding a stock suspension, it really shouldn’t be more than a few hundred dollars in parts, depending on how good/bad everything is. You’ll want new bushings all the way around, new balljoints and tie rods up front. Pitman arm\idler arm and centerlink could be potentially be re-used, depending on the wear and your budget. The rear suspension is a piece of cake – sandblast/paint the control arms, and new bushings. Shocks & springs will be the next considerable expense. Depending on your tastes, you can spend a little or a lot here. Higher quality parts-store shocks (ie- stock replacements Monroe’s) are probably $50/each. I think springs should be less than $100/axle. Do you have a press for installing the new bushings? I think I paid $8/bushing at a local machine shop to have mine pressed in. The only ones I did myself were the two upper bushings in the axle. You said you’re sandblasting the frame – are you doing it yourself, or farming it out? If farming it out, I bet getting the front and rear control arms done at the same time wouldn’t add much to the total cost. Having the body off the frame should make this a relatively easy job. The toughest part will be getting the re-furb’ed front lower control arms & springs back in, as you won’t have the weight of the car to work against. You’ll need a spring compressor. Just be VERY careful when working with compressed springs. I recently had a couple spring compressors fail while re-doing the struts in my Beretta, and those springs are small compared to Chevelle springs. Scared the crap out of me, and I feel lucky that I didn’t get hurt. Hope this at least give you a starting point to plan from.. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of RJ Winkler Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 2:38 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Suspension Hey Guys, I Just finished taking the body off my car….9 hour job. Im goning to sandblast the frame and por15 it. Had a question about the suspension though. I want to rebuild front and rear but don’t have a huge budget. Does anyone have any favorites or good ideas for what to buy to do this? Thanks –RJ Winkler
RE: [Chevelle-list] Unusual option
Was this an upgrade to the 'Tire Smoke Enhancer' option that would throw bleach on your tires during a burnout? -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 12:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Unusual option Never on a car but I've seen refernece to it in several Team Chevelle or Team Camaro bulletin board postings. Usually in reference to an eBay auction for the dispensor.One of those things that you never knew you needed. On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 10:29:32 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I was looking through my Assembly Instructions book for the 69 Chevelle, > and I ran across an option for "Traction Compound Dispenser". It's a round > tube mounted on the rear outter fender area within the trunk. One of the > items is "Container Asm. - Tire Traction Compound". This compound sits on > top of the tube, and then an "applicator actuator asm" sits on top of the > tube of compound. > > I had never heard of such a thing. Has anyone ever seen this option on a > car? > >Steve > > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
RE: [Chevelle-list] Air Gap Intake
Sucking in cool air is not counter-productive. Cooler air = denser air. Denser air = more oxygen per unit of volume. More oxygen means you can add more fuel and make a bigger bang in the combustion chamber, yielding more power. While you are right to an extent that the air might pick up some temperature in the manifold, (thus making it less dense), it’s still better off than starting with hot air and making it even hotter. It’s the same principle with using an intercooler on a turbocharged or supercharged engine – cool off the air entering the engine. As for the oil pump, definitely do not use a high volume pump on a stock pan. You can find all sorts of horror stories of people sucking the oil pan dry at higher RPMs. Match a high-volume pump with a high volume pan. With that said, I believe you could a run a higher pressure than stock, but I’m not sure what the advantages are. The only drawback with high volume oil pans are the extra cost of oil during an oil change, and ground clearance. I personally would not want a pan that hangs lower than the crossmember on a street driven vehicle. I run a stock pump (Melling M55, I think) and stock pan on my car and drag race it regularly. I usually shift at 5700 RPM and have not had an oil related failure in the 15 years I’ve been racing. The stock Chevy oiling system is pretty good. The rule of thumb is typically 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 RPM, although I’ve never seen 50+ psi on my pressure gauge (warm) . It’s usually around 40-45 at speed, low 20s at idle. I run 10W-30 oil. I have a non-air-gap RPM. I live in northern Ohio and never had problems starting my car in cold weather, ie – in the 30s. It might take a minute or two of fast-idle before it would idle with no choke, but it was never hard to start. As for the air-gap versus non-air-gap, I don’t think there is a huge difference in performance. I seem to remember reading an engine buildup recently where they tested them and the difference was nil (less than 10 horsepower), but I’ll defer to others on that, as I can’t remember the source. -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Tomlinson Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 11:06 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Air Gap Intake When I bought my '66 Elky, it came with a rebuilt 350 that was not quite completed. The engine is from a '70 Camaro, 4 bolt main, bored out to 355ci, high compression (10:1?), 2.02 heads, and roller rockers. The cam is the one used in the Edelbrock RPM performance package (can't remember the specs), and the intake (not installed yet) is the Edelbrock RPM. Basically, the engine is very similar to the Edelbrock 420HP engine built with the RPM package. Now for the questions. 1) Should I consider the RPM air gap instead of the non-air gap? I would like to get all the performance I can, but I still want it streetable. I've heard that the air gap can be difficult to start, especially in cold weather. I live in NY and won't drive it in the winter, but it will see cool weather in the spring and fall. I am also considering a cowl induction system, and it seems like sucking in cool air just to have it hit a hot manifold is counter productive. Does anyone have experience with the PermaStar finish? 2) The oil pan appears stock. I'm not sure what oil pump is in the engine. Should an engine like this use something better than the stock oil pump and pan? It would be easy to change now since the engine is already on the stand. Thanks for your advice. Tom Tomlinson
RE: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle sighting
Not in a movie, but in the mid 90s, my car was in an Eaton brochure for their aftermarket posi units. Some woman working for a graphic design company hired by Eaton saw a picture of my car on a personal website I used to have when I was in college. They contacted me and I gave them permission to use the image. I was pretty proud of it at the time.. :-) Unfortunately, I have no idea what I did with my 2-3 copies of the brochure. I'm certain I didn't throw them out, but I have no idea where they are at. :-( In years past on this list, I know there were discussions about letting your car be used in a movie. I don't remember the details, but there were lots of legal considerations -- who is going to drive the car, who is liable for any potential damage, etc. It sounded like a lot of hassle for someone who doesn't deal with that stuff on a regular basis. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 11:12 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle sighting I just bought a used movie from Blockbuster called "Surviving Christmas" (mostly to watch Christina Applegate). I was surprised to find that her dad purchases a beautiful red 70 SS Chevelle. I think there were 454 markings on the fender, it had black stripes, cowl induction, and red interior. Unfortunately, you only get to see the car in two or three scenes. Either way, It is a much nicer car than the butchered one in the crummy movie "Speed Demon". Has anybody on the list ever had your car featured in a movie? How do you get to do that? Steve
[Chevelle-list] distributor total-timing question
Does anyone have some semi-accurate information regarding the mechanical and/or vacuum advance curves that are typical in a stock points or HEI distributor? (or typical ‘performance’ settings in a re-curved setup?) I’m trying to come up with a baseline for my EFI conversion. If this darn weather would warm up, I’d get my butt in the garage and finish it. From many of the magazine articles I’ve read, they seem to end up around 36-38 degrees of total timing on typical carb setups. If you’re running, for example, 12 degrees of initial timing, does this mean the mechanical advance is providing 24-26 degrees of additional timing? I assume there is no vacuum advance at WOT. For a performance application, should I have it all in by 3000 RPM, or sooner? As for the vacuum advance, 10 degrees sticks in my mind as the max amount that it will add. So, if I’m running down the road at 3500 RPM, high vacuum, I could have 12 degrees initial + 24 degrees mechanical + 10 degrees vacuum = 46 degrees total timing? -Dave
[Chevelle-list] O/T; Gran Turismo 4
For those into video games, Gran Turismo 4 was released for the Playstation 2. (after much delay) The main reason I’m mentioning it here is because one of the cars available in the game is a ’70 SS 454 (LS6), available in Arcade mode in just about any factory color. Other notables include a ’63 Vette, ’69 Vette, and two ’69 Camaros (Z/28 and SS350). Doesn’t seem to have real internet play like it was supposed to have, but there is a LAN mode. I rented it from Blockbuster for the week. -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] Bilsteins
Ok, I'll bite here -- what makes a shock good or bad? It's one area I feel very uninformed about. I guess more directly, what would I feel differently from the driver's seat if I swap out my cheapy parts store shocks for Koni or Bilsteins? I have Hotchkis springs all the way. While I love the performance, the ride is a little on the stiff side. Would Bilstein/Koni's make the ride even stiffer? -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 7:19 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Bilsteins I don't know anyone running them on an A-Body. Bilstein and Koni are comparable with QA1's being maybe a notch below. Penske's are probably better than any of the above. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: "Dan Mascheck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Clint...pretty impressive web sight...I'll look at it in the morning!! Do you know anyone running them on a Chevelle? Are they that much better than QA1 or KONI? Dan Mascheck -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.bilstein.com/ Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: "Dan Mascheck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Can you find them locally? I do have a German cousin living in Shwedt...??? -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ZR-1 Corvettes came standard with Bilsteins,Dan. It's hard to find a better shock than a Bilstein, Koni,or Penske. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: "Dan Mascheck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Clint are you saying the Bilsteins are better than QA1? Why? Have you used them? Interesting! Dan -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] QA1 Proma Stars would probably work very well,Andre. Bilsteins won't cost that much more,if any,and they would be easier for you to get since the factory is in Germany. Bilstein has oulets in many countries,too. http://www.bilstein.de/ Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: "André-Tigergutt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, I have checked doug rippie but its out of my budget and I don't know who sells the bilsteins. Now I am more like going in the qa1 proma star direction, any ideas if they are good. Have Fun! André - Tigergutt -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: 24. februar 2005 19:18 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Coil over shocks ?? On my 91 Callaway ZR-1,I had their Bilstein shocks converted to coilovers by Guldstrand. Doug Rippie Motorsports did the coilover conversion on my 90 ZR-1. We kept the FX3 adjustable suspension system active on both cars and added a Bilstein controller. The different controller allowed me to change damping rates with just a cartridge swap. Nice set-up. I would stay with Bilstein for your particular application,Andre. Whatever you do,stay away from Aldan coilovers. Their stuff is found on a lot of pretty streetrods but FWIW,Aldan doesn't even own a shock dyno so that ought to tell you something. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey clint, which coilovers did you use on your vettes. I need to decide which to go for with the C4 suspension on my velle. Ciao André > My 69 El Camino has QA1 coilovers on the front and Strange Engineering > coilovers on the rear. Do I like them? Yes,I've run coilovers on my > streetrods,ZR-1 Corvettes,and now musclecars. They are kinda expensive > and probably overkill but that hasn't stopped me,yet. However,I'm > seriously considering the idea of converting my Elky to a four corner > Air Ride system. Clint Hooper > H&H Custom,owner > 1969 El Camino ProTourer > 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > - Original Message - > From: "Dan Mascheck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 7:17 PM > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Coil over shocks & digital dash?? > > >> Has anyone installed a coil over shock system front and back on there car? >> Are they worth the cost?...Can you tell the difference? >> >> Second question...I'm planning on having Dakota repair my dash and install >> all digital gauges in my old speedometer case...anyone done the >> same...G
RE: [Chevelle-list] Smugglers Box
What good would a 'smugglers' box be if everyone knew where they were? :-) -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 12:25 AM To: Rick Schaefer; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Smugglers Box The bed panels could have been replaced on my 69 but my former 68's body was all original. My family owned that car for thirty two years and I owned it for ten of those. If the box was there,I sure never knew it. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: "Rick Schaefer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Clint for sure the smugglers compartment was there. I believe that > the factory installed a short piece of metal acrossed the front of the > bed on all years that covered it. Aftermarket bed panels are 2 > seperate (left & right) pieces that cover the entire bed- tailgate to > back of cab. Is it possible the bed panels were replaced on your > elkys? Mine is pictured here: > http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/detail?.dir=8a4b&.dnm=5 184.jpg&.src=ph > > > On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 21:57:33 -0500, Tom Tomlinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I'm also not sure what was in the stock smugglers box. I saw a photo of the > > inside of a '66 elky box on a web site, and it looked like there was a > > verticle plate running across the box to help support the lid. My '66 elky > > had a diamond plate bed welded in, including the box lid. Did the previous > > owner take the verticle plate out? > > > > Tom Tomlinson > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > That's kinda what I thought,Steve,but someone either here or on Team > > > Chevelle mentioned their gamblers box on a 68 Elky. I know for a fact my > > 68 > > > didn't have one. My 69 bed has been all smoother and welded up so I wasn't > > > sure about it. > > > Clint Hooper > > > H&H Custom,owner > > > 1969 El Camino ProTourer > > > 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > > > http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > > > - Original Message - > > > From: "Mike Holleman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > > > > Clint, They were in the 64-67 Elkys because the Elky and Station wagon > > > used > > > > the same bed pan and the cover was over the rear seat area. > > > > Mike > > > > - Original Message - > > > > From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > > > What year El Caminos came equipped with the smugglers box? Neither my > > > > > 68,69,and 73 had one of these. Was it an option? > > > > > Clint Hooper > > > > > H&H Custom,owner > > > > > 1969 El Camino ProTourer > > > > > 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > > > > > http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > Rick Schaefer > > http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/album?.dir=8a4b&.src=ph &store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Interview
I'm an IT guy. Geez, now that I think about it, I was just a junior or senior in college back in 1996 when I joined this list. I'm a little nervous about it, but not too bad. In all the interviewing I've done in the past, I've found the best strategy is to just be yourself. I've never had a lunch interview like this, but people are people. Look them in the eye, be honest, be conversational but don't talk their ear off. I try to convey that I know my stuff, but that I'm willing and able to learn what I'll need to know for the position. When I've interviewed in spring/summer/fall, I liked driving my Chevelle to interviews as it tends to relax me a little bit. Too bad I won't be able to do that this time. Snow on the ground and my engine is torn apart. Sorry for the lack of real Chevelle content, but if there's any people on the list who interview candidates for their companies who have some good tips/advice, I'm all ears. (off-list, for everyone else's sake!) -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Knight Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 6:16 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Interview Hey Dave, if it's not too personal, what line of work are you in? My family and I will put you in our prayers tonight. Good luck!! Brian >From: Cecil Martin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],The Chevelle Mailing List > >Subject: [Chevelle-list] Interview >Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 18:11:29 -0500 > >Dave, > man I would be more nervous than a mouse in an Eagle's nest. You >KNOW they are going to be assessing every little thing about you, how >you dress, your manners, if you talk with your mouth full, how you would >fit in with others, and who knows what else could trip you up? You have >gone too far to let the slightest thing blow it for you now. > >I wonder if we have any supervisors here that can give interview tips >for you? > > > I just got the call > > for an in-person lunch interview (after doing 3 phone interviews with >them), > > so I'm kinda on cloud-9 at the moment! I have a pretty good feeling >about > > this.. > > > > -Dave > > > _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
RE: [Chevelle-list] "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..."
I agree. It would be the real finishing touch for mine. I was unemployed when I was putting my car back together with new engine and suspension back in 2001 and the funds just haven't permitted it since. (I deemed EFI a better way to spend my available money for the moment) However, I have a job interview coming up next week Tuesday! If all goes through, I should have a bunch more disposable income. I just got the call for an in-person lunch interview (after doing 3 phone interviews with them), so I'm kinda on cloud-9 at the moment! I have a pretty good feeling about this.. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 4:06 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..." The only thing iwould like to add one more thing to your wish list.. A a Fast ratio, high feed back Steering box.. IMO the 2nd best thing to do to an A body in the suspension department. Wayne - Original Message - From: "Dave Studly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 10:52 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..." > Dan, > > I have a mostly Hotchkis setup in my small-block '70 and am very happy. > > Front: Hotchkis upper A-arms, stock lower A-arms, 77-96 B-body spindle > (allows 12" disc brakes) Hotchkis springs, poly bushings, 1.25" sway bar > from 70-81 F-body. Parts store shocks. > > Rear: Stock control arms with poly bushings, Hotchkis springs, no sway > bar. > Parts store shocks. > > The handling improvement over stock is unbelievable. When I did the > conversion, I had a stock '72 El Camino (with admittedly worn suspension > components) to compare against and the difference was *huge*. If you > drove > the two cars back to back, you wouldn't think they were based on the same > chassis. Freeway on/off ramps can be taken very aggressively if desired. > > The Hotchkis springs lower the car, but not so much that you can't get a > jack under the front crossmember or anything extreme like that. The > lowering is visually noticeable if parked next to a stocker. It's not so > low that it is ricer-looking, though. > > I race my car regularly at the drag strip. With Mickey Thompson ET > Streets, > I have no issues launching. My car pulls 1.8x 60-foot times with no wheel > hop. Just hooks and goes. With street tires, it'll just burn the > tires -- > but no wheel hop. > > Whichever manufacturer you choose, I think you'll be pretty pleased with > the > results. The improved braking with the 12" discs makes the > Hotchkis/Global > West stuff worth it on its own. > > Downsides: only a couple. Here in northern Ohio where we have lousy > pot-holed roads, the stiffer suspension can get a little annoying on rough > roads. Mine's not a daily driver, so I can tolerate it. The other is > that > with the tall spindles, something is different in the front-end geometry > that increases the turning radius. You'll only notice when you're trying > to > make a tight turn into a parking spot. It's enough to notice, but nothing > I > would describe as a 'problem.' > > Anytime this topic comes up, I go into detail about it because I think > it's > the single-best upgrade someone can do to their Chevelle. I had my car > for > 11 years before I did it and wish I had done it sooner. The results are > s worth the effort, IMO. :-) > > -Dave > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Herb Lumpp > Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 5:11 PM > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..." > > Hi Dan, > > My El Camino rides on a complete Global West suspension along with > adjustable QA-1 shocks and custom made coils from Coil Spring Specialties. > It wasn't cheap but the ride and handling is (IMO) second to none. In > fact, > I would put money on it that the Elky handles better than my Vette, which > is > equipped with Vette Brakes & Products suspension components. On top of > the > cornering ability, with the adjustable shocks I can set it to launch hard > at > the drag strip. > > http://www.globalwest.net/ > > http://coilsprings.com/ > > http://www.halshocks.com/ > > > Herb Lumpp > http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm > > > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTE
RE: [Chevelle-list] "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..."
Dan, I have a mostly Hotchkis setup in my small-block '70 and am very happy. Front: Hotchkis upper A-arms, stock lower A-arms, 77-96 B-body spindle (allows 12" disc brakes) Hotchkis springs, poly bushings, 1.25" sway bar from 70-81 F-body. Parts store shocks. Rear: Stock control arms with poly bushings, Hotchkis springs, no sway bar. Parts store shocks. The handling improvement over stock is unbelievable. When I did the conversion, I had a stock '72 El Camino (with admittedly worn suspension components) to compare against and the difference was *huge*. If you drove the two cars back to back, you wouldn't think they were based on the same chassis. Freeway on/off ramps can be taken very aggressively if desired. The Hotchkis springs lower the car, but not so much that you can't get a jack under the front crossmember or anything extreme like that. The lowering is visually noticeable if parked next to a stocker. It's not so low that it is ricer-looking, though. I race my car regularly at the drag strip. With Mickey Thompson ET Streets, I have no issues launching. My car pulls 1.8x 60-foot times with no wheel hop. Just hooks and goes. With street tires, it'll just burn the tires -- but no wheel hop. Whichever manufacturer you choose, I think you'll be pretty pleased with the results. The improved braking with the 12" discs makes the Hotchkis/Global West stuff worth it on its own. Downsides: only a couple. Here in northern Ohio where we have lousy pot-holed roads, the stiffer suspension can get a little annoying on rough roads. Mine's not a daily driver, so I can tolerate it. The other is that with the tall spindles, something is different in the front-end geometry that increases the turning radius. You'll only notice when you're trying to make a tight turn into a parking spot. It's enough to notice, but nothing I would describe as a 'problem.' Anytime this topic comes up, I go into detail about it because I think it's the single-best upgrade someone can do to their Chevelle. I had my car for 11 years before I did it and wish I had done it sooner. The results are s worth the effort, IMO. :-) -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Herb Lumpp Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 5:11 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..." Hi Dan, My El Camino rides on a complete Global West suspension along with adjustable QA-1 shocks and custom made coils from Coil Spring Specialties. It wasn't cheap but the ride and handling is (IMO) second to none. In fact, I would put money on it that the Elky handles better than my Vette, which is equipped with Vette Brakes & Products suspension components. On top of the cornering ability, with the adjustable shocks I can set it to launch hard at the drag strip. http://www.globalwest.net/ http://coilsprings.com/ http://www.halshocks.com/ Herb Lumpp http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dan Mascheck Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 4:59 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..." I would like to replace my front and rear suspension to either a Heidt, Hotchkis, Global West or a combination of the above or whatever seems to be the best. I do more cruising than strip application, but would not rule out taking on the strip! I have a 72 Chevelle with a bored .060 454 with a BDS 8-71 supercharger. What advantage do you get by using a lowered spindle other than looks? I'm not too much into the newer squat look, I see in cars designed by Foose or Coddington. I'm not against it...It's just not for me! Any help would be appreciated. I'm in the research phase. Dan Mascheck Wharton, TX -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 1:01 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 19, Issue 33 Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..."
RE: [Chevelle-list] Transmission?
I don't believe that 200R4 is electronic, other than needing a 12v signal for the Torque converter lockup. The 4L60E is an electronic version of the 700R4 that debuted in '92 or '93, I think. It does have electronic shifting controls that should permit an electronic shifting setup like you describe. There's a guy in the MegaSquirt EFI community who is trying to develop a stand-alone controller that would allow exactly what you describe -- a way to shift with something like Formula-1 style paddles. If you're interested, head over to www.msefi.com and do a search on 'Megashift'. Lance Gardiner is the guy doing the work. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of mike f Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 8:49 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Transmission? Hey D.R, I have a question about the 200-R4. I saw, somewhere, a steering column mounted shifter control switch, if you will. On this setup, you could shift up and down with a flick of the finger. Is the 200-R4 all electronic and would an electric contol like that work well? How does it shift? thanks mike valley view, texas --- "D.R. Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Just a comment on the trans talk. I have 2 2004R > trans. One by Art > Carr, non-lockup in my 72 El, 500hp BBC, 3.73 posi > rear, works great. > One by Phoenix Transmission in Weatherford, this is > in the 72 Monte > Carlo 330hp/350 GM crate engine and is lockup so I > have true OD on the > highway which is really nice as the rear is also > 3.73 posi. Both work > great, the Phoenix was much cheaper. I have steered > several people > towards Phoenix and they are very happy with them. > I went to Phoenix > because I knew someone who formally worked there, > otherwise I would have > gone back to Art Carr. Anyways the 2004R can be > built and offers a > weight and cost savings. > > D.R. Jones > > __ Do you Yahoo!? Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today! http://my.yahoo.com
RE: [Chevelle-list] Issues w/ aftermarket heads
Has anyone run into problems like this with small-block aftermarket heads? I’m currently in the market for either some AFR 195 or 210s or Edelbrock RPM heads (I haven’t decided on how much I want to spend yet). -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 1:13 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Issues w/ aftermarket heads This isn't the first time I've heard of this one. That's the reason I ended up with a pair of GM Performance Bowtie alum heads on the 468" in my 68. We ran Sampson 1 7/8" intermediates on the car without fitment issues. Custom BBC heads aren't cheap but it gets worse when one has to spend almost that much again on custom headers. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Herb Lumpp As most of you know, I bought a set of AFR heads for my Elky. I've recently confirmed some info regarding aftermarket aluminum heads you should be award of before purchasing... In the quest for higher flow numbers, the aftermarket head manufacturers are altering their castings. What this means is that not only are the exhaust ports and spark plug holes relocated, but the majority of available heads are wider than a factory head. This might not sound like a big deal until you try to get headers that will fit the heads and your car. Not too long ago I bought a set of Stahl headers and much to my grief, once bolted to the heads, I wasn't able to get a socket on 3 of the passenger side plugs. Since the engine wasn't in the car, I have no idea wether or not the headers would have fit the chassis. Thankfully Stahl let me return them for a refund. Now Stahl is in the process of building another set using their second design with an adjustable jig and one of my AFR heads for accurate dimensions. Needless to say, these new headers won't be cheap. After talking with Jere Stahl and Ed Henneman (Headers by ED) they both confirmed that the head manufacturers are avoiding this topic. The head manufacturers aren't the end users so they keep changing the castings and "forget" to mention to potential customers there may be a problem fitting headers. I guess if you're building a completely handcrafted race car, a set of one-off headers isn't a problem. However, if you're building a car using a factory chassis, header fit becomes an issue. For those of you with crate 502 engines that have Chevy aluminum heads, were there any problems fitting headers? Herb Lumpp http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
RE: [Chevelle-list] throttle cable on '70?
Walt, How does the Lokar 'connect' or retain to the firewall? I understand the cut-to-length of the cable and housing portion. Looking at this GM cable I bought (I have no idea what application is it for), it looks square-ish with some tabs on two sides to clip it into the firewall. Very similar to how the kickdown cable on a TH350 mounts into a bracket. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 9:08 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Cc: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] throttle cable on '70? Dave, I don't have a pic but I used the Lokar cable I picked up at summit. You can trim it to length..of course I'm pretty sure I bought a universal cable ..not specifically A-body. Walt - Original Message - From: Dave Studly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Monday, February 14, 2005 3:25 pm Subject: [Chevelle-list] throttle cable on '70? > Does anyone have a picture of the throttle cable for a '70 (or the > hole in > the firewall) where the throttle cable mounts? I need to change > mine out > and am not sure what I'm dealing with. I bought a GM cable, with > a part > number supplied by Holley for their Stealth Ram, but it's way too > long and > the round part at the firewall looks much bigger on the new cable. > > > > Are the Lokar cables adjustable length? > > > > One of these days I'll get this EFI conversion finished. > > > > -Dave > > > >
[Chevelle-list] throttle cable on '70?
Does anyone have a picture of the throttle cable for a ’70 (or the hole in the firewall) where the throttle cable mounts? I need to change mine out and am not sure what I’m dealing with. I bought a GM cable, with a part number supplied by Holley for their Stealth Ram, but it’s way too long and the round part at the firewall looks much bigger on the new cable. Are the Lokar cables adjustable length? One of these days I’ll get this EFI conversion finished… -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] Parts Supplier - TWE
If they are in Ohio, that area code is probably 330. 303 isn't Ohio. (Denver, I think?) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Krister Meister Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 10:37 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Cc: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Parts Supplier - TWE http://www.lisbonchevelle.com/ still under construction but a free catalog can be obtained by calling Ted Williams Enterprises - Free Catalog - (303) 424-9413 - Lisbon, OH ... I personally buy the majority of my parts from http://www.oldmusclecars.com/. It is a separate division of a Chevrolet dealership and are dedicated to the Chevrolet hobbyist!!! You can view their catalog on line or they will mail one to you. All items are listed by the Chevrolet issued part number when our cars were built, so working with an assembly manual which lists the GM part numbers makes ordering very easy. Quality is excellent. Their pricing is less than the OGP's, Year One's and Ground Up's of the world. I have also found them to be the cheapest on shipping charges. None of the $00.00 - $30.00 = 8.95, $30.01 - $60.00 = $17.95 shipping bits. My last shipment was a 12" X 12" X 36" box filled with brake lines, hoses, wheel cylinders, radiator hoses, battery tray and other stuff - all shipped for $8.00. They are worth looking into! http://www.oldmusclecars.com/ Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s Hey, can someone give me the number for TWE parts. I am getting tired of the California companies like OPG & CARS Inc Thanks Phil Adams 67 BB Chevelle
RE: [Chevelle-list] Horse power?
Did Desktop Dyno take the altitude into account? 500 à 301 is a big drop. Having just gotten back from skiing in Colorado, I can personally vouch for the difficulty of breathing at altitude! -Dave From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Thorpe Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 4:29 PM To: Chevelle-list Subject: [Chevelle-list] Horse power? I just had my 66 dynoed. I had put in a worked 454. The desk top dyno quoted 500HP at the crank. This was done at 5500 ft elevation. The results were: 301 HP at the wheels. I was hoping for at least 330HP. The car has a TH400 tranny. Does this sound about right to you guys? How much does the 400 use? Thanks 66 Jack Montrose Colorado Jack Thorpe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-list] th700R4
This has always been my understanding too -- the torque converter is where the majority of the heat is generated. And it makes sense if you've ever studied how they work. I can't see how a non-lockup would generate LESS heat. And everything I've ever read about automatics will describe heat as Enemy #1. When you're in Drive or O/D, it's easy to be going a constant speed, and hit the gas pedal mometarily, and see the revs rise without a corresponding increase in vehicle speed. The engine just spun faster, consuming more fuel, generating more energy, but we didn't see the vehicle increase in speed. Where did that energy go? You just heated up the fluid in the trans to some degree via a pumping/shearing action inside the converter. It's entirely possible that some of these trans guys don't have much faith in the strength/durability of the clutch or locking mechanism inside the lock-up converters (esp. behind a strong engine), thus their non-lockup recommendation, but a non-lockup WILL generate more heat. You need to make sure you have appropriate trans cooler for such a situation. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 9:00 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] th700R4 As in many cases we have to depend on the "experts" to guide us through the technical aspects of building our rides. And the experts seem to have differences of opinion. What I'm not sure I understand is that I have always been lead to believe that an unlocked converter builds more heat than one that is locked. My personal experience seems to bare this out as my 700R4 runs as much as 15 degrees hotter in third gear when driven over a period than it does in OD and locked. Heat only seems to be a factor when I am driving mostly in town and not getting up to enough speed to go OD. These observations are with a constant engine temp of 180, which is where the 421 seems to stay. A 38 Coupe huh? Sounds like a nice project. Mike - Original Message - From: "Wayne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 8:04 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] th700R4 > Mike. That's what he was trying to explain to me. About the Fluid/oil > circuit in lock up and none lock up. and how with the manufacturing of new > aftermarket parts > Your better off in the none lock build... I was looking over some of my > Overdrive stuff when I went down this road a few years ago. and at that > time > Spoke to Art Car , he had just opened his new shop, and he was firm in > his beliefs to use None Lock up. But the cost in 2000 added 400 extra to > the build...he laso opted for the th200r4 but stressed a long list of > upgrades...to mke it survive from it's lowly low hp stock build. > > The extra Heat is from the converter in 4th Gear/ Over Drive. in it's LOCK > UP mode. It shuts off the oil circulation as part of the Lock Up > process. > This is one reason my builder says.. keep it loose, keep it cool and , keep > it unlocked.. > > > > Thanks for the input guys.. > .If I did not Drive the wheel off my cars. I would opt for a built TH-400.. > but I am so spoiled with my Elky and it's over drive > > Wayne > > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Mike Holleman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 6:28 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] th700R4 > > > > Wayne, I have a 700R4 behind a built 421 tripower in my 64 Tempest. I am > > using a lockup converter w/manual switch because it was highly recommended > > by Bowtie Overdrives, which is where the trans came from. Their reasoning > > was because of heat created by converter slippage in overdrive. My > > converter > > only locks in overdrive and I do see a substantial difference in trans > > temp > > when I drive alot in third versus in OD. BTO says the trans temp should > > not > > be much above 150 for extended periods. The only time I see higher temps > > is > > on hot days when I am not getting into OD/lockup mode. Hope this helps. > > Mike Holleman > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Wayne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > > Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 1:01 PM > > Subject: [Chevelle-list] th700R4 > > > > > >> I am gathering parts from my up coming street rod Project. 38 chevy > >> coupe. > > I > >> have a 700 R4 in my 65 Elky and like it . > >> I stoped at the local HP trans builder. and we talked about what I > >> wanted...He suggested a 89 later with all the transgo stuff HD sun > >> shell > >> 39 sprag and 13 vane pump.. ect But also said " In his opnion" He > >> would > >> prefer I use a NONE lock up converter with the none lock up valve and > > none > >> lock up converter... > >> 2000-2300 RPM none lock up converter and modified to run full fluid/oil > >> flow in 4th gear. > >> This will go behind a
RE: [Chevelle-list] Bolt baking & wheel cover results
That's good to hear Bill. I might just try it again myself and see if I can get as good as a result. What bolts did you bake? Intake manifold, water pump, ... ? -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Lessenberry Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 2:32 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Bolt baking & wheel cover results I'm pretty happy with the baking results. I used Plasticote enamel on the parts, sprayed them & let them dry for 1~2 hours, then baked them at 200deg. for an hour. Most of the color held up, but if you have to put more than about 30 ftlbs of force on the bolt, the paint will chip. 6 point sockets worked better than 12 point, and an open end wrench used on the same flats worked best of all. Weird deal on the wheel covers--after I posted the request I found a set for sale on Ebay that evening. I won the auction, and, if they look as good in real life as they did in the pictures, I got a good deal--Aout $55 for all four shipped in. BL
RE: [Chevelle-list] Test
Probably the only guy on the list who is enjoying watching his paint dry! ;-) Let us know if the paint holds up to wrenches and such when you're done. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Lessenberry Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 9:29 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Test At 08:18 PM 1/18/2005, you wrote: >Hey, is this thing on? Sorry, I'm baking right now. No time to talk. :-))
RE: [Chevelle-list] Bolt baking, also clear-coating question
Bill, I think it is supposed to add a certain 'toughness' to the finish -- ie, the paint won't chip off so easily. With bolts though, I'm not sure that if you were to paint and them bake them that they will remain chip-free after you use a socket or wrench on them. I vaguely recall trying to do this back in HS or college and being disappointed with the results, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have baked them for an hour as Clint suggested. I probably tried 10 or 15 minutes, tops. Also, I don't want to hi-jack your thread here, but along the same lines, I'd like to clear-coat my Holley Stealth Ram and have the finish hold up over time. Anyone have any tried-n-true tips for accomplishing this without the manifold turning yellow-ish in a year? -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 9:34 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Bolt baking Bill,I used to bake small parts in the oven,set at 200 degrees for an hour or so. Used Krylon or other rattlecan paint. Works great. Not sure how well this will work with bolts and other fasteners,though. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger - Original Message - From: "Bill Lessenberry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I bought a toaster oven at a yard sale this weekend. I was wondering if > anyone here has painted and then baked the paint on bolts and small > brackets? Would you use lacquer or enamel paint? What temp would you cure > it at and for how long? Am I crazy for thinking that this has been > done? Does it add to the strength of the finish? Any help or comments are > welcome. > Thanks, > BL
RE: [Chevelle-list] NC: '05 Mustang
The GTO is certainly a performance-minded RWD platform. It runs low 14s. So is the Caddy CTS-V, and I believe these are two distinct chassis. It might take a couple more years, but I believe we’ll start seeing more RWD stuff from GM. The Pontiac Solstice has allegedly been green-lighted for production, and it is RWD, although not V8 powered. -Dave The GM's GTO is a Joke.. the only thing cool about the retro 2004 GTO/Chevelle, is knowing the amount of craftsmanship it took to graft those Goodmark panels to the original GTO body...And from all the scuttle Butt there no rear wheel drive performance minded cars in the GM pipeline. HAS GM missed the Boat or just Abandoned it ?. Wayne ACES # 1556 TC # 186 - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 11:09 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] NC: '05 Mustang When I saw the mustang, I said the same thing...even thought I should get one.. they sure do sound good but then I came to my senses. Chevy is falling wy behind. How many of us can afford a $65,000 Vette. They discontinued the camaro... which they had basically destroyed anyhow. FORD on the other hand has done a great job with the mustang... dang... did I just say that??? Come on GM... get your act together and no, a '05 make believe '70 almost looking chevelle for $45,000 doesn't cut the mustard! just my .02 Donnie
RE: [Chevelle-list] NC: '05 Mustang
I won't deny the Mustang is a home-run for Ford, but is anyone else getting a little tired of the retro thing? Consider all of Chrysler's stuff in the past 10 years. (PT not withstanding) They've consistently led the market, in many segments, in terms of styling. I believe I was in the minority that didn't like when that gawd-awful goofed-up GTO-as-Chevelle SS was paraded around over the summer. I saw it in person at the all-GM Carlisle show this summer, albeit from a distance, and was not impressed. Don't ruin the Chevelle's legacy by producing something like that. I'd rather have no modern Chevelle than that one. As for the GTO, I agree it is lackluster. But at least it doesn't have really tacky plastic cladding on it, and they did get the hardware side of it correct. (350hp, 6sp, rear drive). It's not an utter failure. I'd own one for an everyday car. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 10:18 PM To: Michael Pell; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] NC: '05 Mustang Gotta agree with you there. There is no mistaking one for something else. And I can't say that about the GTO. I don't know if I've ever seen one on the street, Maybe in GrandAm disguise. On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 22:01:55 -0500, Michael Pell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > You know, those new Mustangs are looking pretty good. Ford did a great > job with it. > > Hopefully they will sell well enough to make GM take notice and do > something similar! > > -- > Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com > TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com > Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 > Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 > > -- > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.6.10 - Release Date: 1/10/2005 > > -- Rick Schaefer
[Chevelle-list] help, odd transmission leak
Hey all, I went out to the garage this morning where my ’70 has been parked since mid-October. My TH350 has leaked so much trans fluid, that I noticed it because it’s creeping out from under the car! At least 1.5-2quarts. I was under the car in October/November and didn’t notice anything unusual then, maybe the odd drop or two.. The trans was rebuilt in the late 90s, and hasn’t been touched since 2001 and worked great when I parked it. The car has not been turned over/started since October, either. I pushed it out of the garage once, and back in. During the summer, when it see periodic use, it doesn’t leak. The TH400 in my El Camino did the same thing, although it would leak horrendously if it sat for just a week or more. But it didn’t leak if I drove the car every few days. I chalked it up to an old tranny that needed a rebuild. That is not the case with this one. So what on earth causes a trans to leak from NOT being used? -Dave
RE: [Chevelle-list] Getting rid of an air bubble in cooling system
I've read the thing about drilling a hole or two in the thermostat for years but never brought myself to try it. Dunno why. If you're going to do it 'my' way, it shouldn't take much more than 10-15 minutes, assuming you start with a relatively cold engine. Stick your hand by one of the heater vents -- once it has been blowing some hot air for a few minutes, the thermostat should be open and it has probably vented all the air pockets out. If you have a temp gauge, just watch that instead. Watch the liquid in the radiator -- if there are still air pockets, you'll see it bubbling. This is how my dad used to do flush-n-fill jobs, and I seem to remember doing it this way at the service station, too. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 5:10 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Getting rid of an air bubble in cooling system Gram... Dave has a GREAT methods for eliminating most if not all the air captive in your cooling system.. but PLEASE.. Drill a small hole in the thermostat mounting flange.., I drill a 1/8 .125 dia. hole just outside the seat . During spirited driving.. with the pump at High RPM's it tends to cause cavitation, when the thermostat is closed. This traps air in the open and closing cooling ... my .02 Wayne - Original Message - From: "Graham Wooden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 2:44 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Getting rid of an air bubble in cooling system > Thanks Dave. The car is not quite drivable, but I can perform that > procedure in > my driveway. Any estimate on how long I should run the car with the cap > off and > when do I put the cap back on? Sorry for the lame questions, I am trying > to make > sure I don't get rid of one air bubble just to introduce another - since I > am > not sure how they come about in the first place. Maybe because I did not > have > a overflow hooked up - and it sucked in air while cooling? > > Thanks again, > > -Graham > > Quoting Dave Studly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > >> I think the best way for getting rid of an air bubble is to simply get >> the >> car up to temperature, heater on full hot to allow max waterflow, and >> leave >> the radiator cap off. Cool water is sent into the engine via the lower >> radiator hose and hot water exits at the upper radiator hose. >> >> Once the thermostat opens, any hot air should be able to escape into the >> radiator, and out the cap. >> >> If you haven't done this before, just let the engine warm up with the >> radiator cap off. Don't go for a drive and then try removing the cap. >> 15psi behind a couple gallons of 200-degree liquid can hurt. I did that >> once when I was in my teens. Ouch. >> >> -Dave >> >> >> -Original Message- >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Graham Wooden >> Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 4:44 PM >> To: The Chevelle Mailing List >> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Getting rid of an air bubble in cooling >> system >> >> That seems to be what my cooling system is exhibiting - gauge showing >> real >> hot but no water really flowing out. Everything is new and pretty quality >> (BeCool alum radiator/elec fan) - so I am pretty sure once I get this >> bubble >> taken care of, it will run at a decent temperature. >> I think I will try that little bypass hole. >> >> Thanks Brian! >> >> -Graham >> >> >> On 1/9/05 4:30 PM, "Brian Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >> > Graham, never had an air bubble myself, so I may not have the best >> > description of the symptoms. You would get a hot/overheat reading on >> > your >> > gauge because the air is trapped at the stat. Hot air will not heat up >> > and >> > open the stat the same as water. I have always drilled a small (5/32 or >> so) >> > hole in my stats to allow a small flow of water, eliminating the >> > potential >> > bubble. Sort of like a bypass. It also will allow a slightly hot >> > running >> > engine to be a few degrees cooler if you can't afford aftermarket >> > pumps/fans/radiators. >> > >> > Brian >> > >> >> From: Graham Wooden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> >> Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List >> >> To: The Chevelle Mailing List >> >> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Getting rid of an air bubble in cooling >&
