Re: Stus-List Folding Prop

[Knowles Rich]

Major groan!!

Rich

On 2013-08-13, at 23:24, Russ & Melody  wrote:

Hi Sam,

Why not get rid of the motor and drive gear and buy a coil of rope.

Then you can have less drag,  less motoring and more knots :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1

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Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Guys,

The burn rate of 2.4 ltr/hr is putting about 12 
horsepower into the water. So a 40 HP engine is a 
little overkill for those conditions... unless 
you have a wackin' big alternator.


I'm about 2 ltr/hr with an old Yanmar QM20 doing 
about 5.5 knots with a Kiwi-prop.


Seems like a J-prop on a smaller engine might be the ticket for a lot of us.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




At 07:55 AM 13/08/2013, you wrote:
A former owner repowered our 1990 C&C 37 XL (39' 
6" LOA), installing a Yanmar Model:  3JH2-TBE 
(47 hp,. turbo) back in 2001.  It turns a “J” 
Prop feathering 18” - 3 blade propellor.


It does not seem at all like overkill to me.  We 
burn about 2.4 litres an hour ( 0.7 US Gal.) at 6.5 knots under power.


Ken H.


On 13 August 2013 10:39, Bill Coleman 
<colt...@verizon.net> wrote:


I think he means 2800 under power, but that is not clear.

My opinion, worth what it cost, that boat is 
grossly underpowered. I am now at 37.5 hp, after replacing a 40 hp Perkins 107.


I think a C&C 41 should be 40 – 45 hp minimum.



Bill Coleman

C&C 39
animated_favicon1




From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson


Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine



Tony,



Does it rev to 3600 in neutral?  If not, could be a bad tach.



On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Tony Wroblewski 
<triump...@hotmail.com> wrote:


I also have a  C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar 
but do not need to repower.  Why go to the 3JH5? 
Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP.  My 
problem however is it doesn't want to develop 
more than 2800 RPM.  Have a Martec 17x10 folding 
prop.  Any suggestions.  I have owned the boat 
since new and it's always been that way.  What 
props do others have on their 41s


--
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:21:47 -0400
From: rsh...@optonline.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

Paul,

I have a 1984 C&C 41. No, I have not done an 
engine swap but I would be real interested in the details


of the project. Seems that getting the old 
engine out would be the main concern. Relocating


engine mounts should not be a problem. Of course 
putting the new engine in would be interesting.


I am not contemplating an engine swap but I have 
played "what if" and thought that cutting the cockpit


floor out and lifting the engine straight up 
would solve engine removal issues. With 
the  engine out you would have unrestricted 
access for fiberglassing, painting, 
soundproofing and anything else you want to do down there.


Good luck,

Ray Shibe

Stinky Dog.



On Sun, Aug 04, 2013 at 07:17 PM, Paul Parsons wrote:

I would like to ask the membership if any C&C 41 
owners have done an re-engine to the Yanmar 
3JH5(39hp), removing a 3HMF(27 hp), has this been done before.




Thank you.



Paul




Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Sam,

Why not get rid of the motor and drive gear and buy a coil of rope.

Then you can have less drag,  less motoring and more knots :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1

At 01:50 PM 12/08/2013, you wrote:

Racing and sailing. Not so much motoring.
I need less drag and more knots :-)

sam :-) 403-617-6280
From: Martin DeYoung
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 2:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Prop

Sam,

How do you plan to use the prop? Racing, 
cruising, or a mix, do you expect to motor a 
significant amount of time, and do you expect to 
motor into strong headwinds and seas?


Budget?

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.com

Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 12:54 PM
To: CnC
Subject: Stus-List Folding Prop

‎My 26 currently has a 12" x 8" RH, 3 blade, 
fixed prop. 7/8" shaft. (2GM20F - 13 1/2 hp)
It's getting to the stage where I should start 
looking for a folding or feathering prop.


What do I need!
I've got room for up to about 14".
I'm on a mooring, so reverseing is not a big issue.
sam :-) 403-617-6280

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Re: Stus-List A joy

[Knowles Rich]

Great story, JP. I may have missed this as I'm on a road trip, but can you post 
the coordinates of your final destination. Is it a yacht club or..?

Welcome to our little slice of madness. But we do have fun:)

Rich Knowles
INDIGO. LF38
Halifax. NS

From: "J.P." 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:26:47 PM
Subject: Stus-List A joy

Hi All,
 
I have never been a C&C owner until this past week.
 
I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than death… 
She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat slip in 
Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last week, and 
dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco Washington, 
where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.
 
I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed repairs. 
She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that’s the model) with 670 hours 
showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails and 9 more 
to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget Sound and 
actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where she was 
award prizes for racing in the area in the 80’s … but had not been used much 
(from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running rigging was in 
rough shape – so we redid a lot of that… put on some new dock lines, loaded it 
on a truck and sent it to Pasco.
 
The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called 
“Clarkston”. This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail 
navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the heat 
of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here. Also 
running up river is against a varying current depending on the season, rains, 
and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal cruising, 
to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have never done a river 
run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.  
 
Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on the 
river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low clearances.. one 
is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn’t risen. With the wind instruments and 
antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.
 
We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday, 
then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and Dam. A 
cabin cruiser about 30’ -  was “mis tied” against the lock and almost turned 
turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim platform. 
After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela ran 
flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a thunderstorm. 
The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in 40+mph winds.
 
The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little 
Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the Lower 
Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the whole 
process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing a sailboat 
upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very little in the 
way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had spares of “critical 
pieces”… but still after having the boat only 2-3 days, and it being in 6-8 
YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous.
 
Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled down 
to 70 degrees at dusk, I was eating a sandwich and drinking a cold Coke…. The 
music was wafting up out of the cabin, and I realized the trip had been 
uneventful and pretty good so far. Settling down to sleep with a gentle rocking 
motion at the mooring, we watched a paddle wheel boat carrying a couple hundred 
tourist passengers, barges full of wheat from the harvest, and fisheries barges 
carrying “juvenile fish” to deposit in the river… We had seen huge rock 
outcroppings, deer, eagles, herons, cranes, huge fish breaking the water…
 
The next day we left early, transitted the lock at Lower Granite, and headed 
home.
 
After tying off at the dock and securing the boat, (in about 100 degrees heat) 
I was washing down the decks, and these thoughts  occurred to me … the engine 
purred like a kitten (not one hiccup, running at 2850 RPM we produced hull 
speed at about .65 gallons per hour) , the boat was dry, and very comfortable. 
The tiller worked well with the little Simrad auto pilot, all the gauges worked 
(with a little twiddling on the wiring terminal blocks), the pressure water 
systems were perfect the boat slept well, handled well, and - every piece of it 
for being out of use for 5-7 years, were in a thought - far better than 
expected.
 
In short, the trip was a joy in a good boat. I’m glad I bought a C&C.
 
JP
 
Gabriela C&C 34
Clarkston Wa.

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Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1

[Chuck S]

Love the MaxProp for reliable power in both forward and reverse. 
A Martec Eliptic came with my boat and is reputed to have less drag but it 
would close when coasting along in neutral and a burst was needed to open it up 
for braking or thrusting forward. It also lost power when pushing thru chop. 

The MaxProp is a good design, it's reliable and popular, but unchanged since 
1972. Having assembled one, setting the pitch, and locking six cap screws with 
cotter keys, it could definitely be improved. 

There are other choices, and I'd spend the time and research all brands, before 
settling on one. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Jake Brodersen"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 8:48:50 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1 

Gary, 

My Martec does fine in reverse, I just have to run the rpms up to about 
3,000 for it to respond. Once I get some sternway, everything is fine. It 
certainly doesn't back down like a solid prop, but I love the low drag 
properties. 

Jake 

Jake Brodersen 
C&C 35 Mk-III 
Midnight Mistress 
Hampton VA 






-Original Message- 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander 
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:54 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1 

My 30-1 with a 2QM15 came with a 13.5 x 9 fixed prop. The Martec props are 
not noted for good thrust in reverse. 

Gary 
- Original Message - 
From: "Curtis"  
To:  
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:29 PM 
Subject: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1 


I have just put a 2gm20F 18 hp 
taking out a 2GM 13hp. 
I have a Prop15Dx9P2 mertec folding prop. It has little to no reverst 
and very little thrust foward? What is a good choice for a 2 ot 3 
fixed blade prop for a 1981 C&C 30 MK1 with a 2gm20F and a kanzai 
KM2P. 
Thanks for your help 
-- 
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to 
change; the realist adjusts the sails." 

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Re: Stus-List steering quadrant - EDSON says numbers up, flat side down

[Knowles Rich]

Alex. They were solid on my boat and I found some hex head replacements by 
chance at a ship supplier here. I turned them into flathead bolts on a lathe by 
undercutting the heads. If I had to do it over, I'd just use stainless bolts. 
They'll outlast me and the boat. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-13, at 21:04, Alex Giannelia  wrote:

That is fresh off the press from Edson, flat side down.
 
Now another question for Edson users, Does anyone have stock on those hollow 
bolts that go through the cockpit sole?  EDSON no longer carries them.
 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

[Steven Winks]

Thanks to everyone with info on my bilge pump siphon problem. I'll service 
the pump and install a vented loop. That should solve the problem.


Steve 



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Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinnaker setup on a 30 mk2

[Richard N. Bush]

I had a 29-2 which had the same set up and we added a block on the mast head; 
the A-spinn halyard was external, but it worked beautifully; you might look to 
see if there room for such a block; AND having said that, on my current boat, a 
33-II, we do just what you propose, we use an internal jib halyard for the 
A-spinn and are very careful about gybing; best of luck which ever way you 
go  


Richard
1987 33-II, Ohio River, Mile 584;


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: Sébastien Lemieux 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Tue, Aug 13, 2013 8:48 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinnaker setup on a 30 mk2



My mast has two sheaves, both slightly below the forestay.  The boat came with 
two halyards forward of the mast, both in good condition.  I use one for the 
genoa (on a furler) and plan to use the second one for the asym.  I believe I 
have no choice but use the asym as a genoa and gybe between forestay and mast.  
By looking at the rigs on sailboatdata.com, it seems to me that both the 39 and 
the 35-3 also have a similar setup (all sheaves below the forestay).


The reason I mention the use in light air was that I was concerned about the 
weight of the sheets.  I'm currently using 5/8 sta-set as genoa sheets and 
although they are nice in the hand they really pull down on the sail when broad 
reaching in light air.  I'm not looking for sheets that are under-specced but 
might be willing to pay a bit more to get a lighter sheet.


Just for reference, the document I'm mentioning is here:  
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/spinnaker/spinnaker.htm


cheers,



Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Lake Champlain


On 2013-08-13, at 14:24 , Joel Aronson  wrote:


I agree with Bill about the halyard and blocks.
70 feet of 5/16 is plenty.  You can use Sta-Set and spend the rest on a new 
halyard.
I flew my asym wing and wing last week in light air.  Boat speed went from 2.3 
knots to 3.3 knots after I gybed the main!
Joel
35/3
Annapolis




On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

I have never heard of anyone using genoa halyards for an A sail, but maybe
you could if you tacked it like a genoa. We always jibe ours out and around
the headstay, inverting it.  Usually they are on a pennant, a few feet off
the tack.  If you have an anchor roller that is substantial, it is best to
get them away from the forestay, but of course only if you have it on a
spinnaker halyard above everything, not on genny halyards. And yes, you need
snatch blocks on the toe rail just like a regular spinnaker.

Famous Last Words:  "Will only Use this sail in light air"
Always have an exit plan for heavy air!

Bill Coleman
C&C 39


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sébastien
Lemieux
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 2:11 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinakker setup on a 30 mk2

Hello,

  I have an asym spi left from the PO that I would like to setup.  I've read
through the DIY document on the photo album site and from this I assume that
I will need to use it from an genoa halyard (both sheaves exit just slightly
under the forestay).  I've got a few questions left:  The manual of the
30mk2 specifies 70' sheets for a symmetrical spi, should I go with the same
length for an asym?  What should be the length of the line pulling the tack
(what is the name of that line?)?

  I will use this sail only in light wind, what type of rope would you
recommend for the sheets and tack line?  I'd like to try a single braid for
that purpose, anyone has experience with the Control DPX from Samson (in
5/16, $1.44/ft at APS, 2.9 lbs/100ft).  The halyard is already in place.

  Also, am I correct that I will need to shackle a turning block on each of
the aluminum piece at the end of the rail in order to lead the sheets fairly
to the winch?

Thanks in advance!

--
Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Lake Champlain




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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinnaker setup on a 30 mk2

[Tim Goodyear]

Sebastian, the 35-3 (at least my one) has four forward halyards; two jib / 
genoa halyards below the forestay and two spinnaker halyards above.  If you 
aren't gybing your asym too much I would not be too worried about using your 
spare jib halyard, but it will chafe more, and you need to ensure they aren't 
twisted at hoist or douse.  Outside the forestay gybes should not be a problem 
in your light wind scenario but you should try to hoist and douse on the same 
side.  

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Aug 13, 2013, at 8:48 PM, Sébastien Lemieux  wrote:

> My mast has two sheaves, both slightly below the forestay.  The boat came 
> with two halyards forward of the mast, both in good condition.  I use one for 
> the genoa (on a furler) and plan to use the second one for the asym.  I 
> believe I have no choice but use the asym as a genoa and gybe between 
> forestay and mast.  By looking at the rigs on sailboatdata.com, it seems to 
> me that both the 39 and the 35-3 also have a similar setup (all sheaves below 
> the forestay).
> 
> The reason I mention the use in light air was that I was concerned about the 
> weight of the sheets.  I'm currently using 5/8 sta-set as genoa sheets and 
> although they are nice in the hand they really pull down on the sail when 
> broad reaching in light air.  I'm not looking for sheets that are 
> under-specced but might be willing to pay a bit more to get a lighter sheet.
> 
> Just for reference, the document I'm mentioning is here:  
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/spinnaker/spinnaker.htm
> 
> cheers,
> 
> Sébastien Lemieux
> Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
> Lake Champlain
> 
> On 2013-08-13, at 14:24 , Joel Aronson  wrote:
> 
>> I agree with Bill about the halyard and blocks.
>> 70 feet of 5/16 is plenty.  You can use Sta-Set and spend the rest on a new 
>> halyard.
>> I flew my asym wing and wing last week in light air.  Boat speed went from 
>> 2.3 knots to 3.3 knots after I gybed the main!
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
>>> I have never heard of anyone using genoa halyards for an A sail, but maybe
>>> you could if you tacked it like a genoa. We always jibe ours out and around
>>> the headstay, inverting it.  Usually they are on a pennant, a few feet off
>>> the tack.  If you have an anchor roller that is substantial, it is best to
>>> get them away from the forestay, but of course only if you have it on a
>>> spinnaker halyard above everything, not on genny halyards. And yes, you need
>>> snatch blocks on the toe rail just like a regular spinnaker.
>>> 
>>> Famous Last Words:  "Will only Use this sail in light air"
>>> Always have an exit plan for heavy air!
>>> 
>>> Bill Coleman
>>> C&C 39
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sébastien
>>> Lemieux
>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 2:11 PM
>>> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinakker setup on a 30 mk2
>>> 
>>> Hello,
>>> 
>>>   I have an asym spi left from the PO that I would like to setup.  I've read
>>> through the DIY document on the photo album site and from this I assume that
>>> I will need to use it from an genoa halyard (both sheaves exit just slightly
>>> under the forestay).  I've got a few questions left:  The manual of the
>>> 30mk2 specifies 70' sheets for a symmetrical spi, should I go with the same
>>> length for an asym?  What should be the length of the line pulling the tack
>>> (what is the name of that line?)?
>>> 
>>>   I will use this sail only in light wind, what type of rope would you
>>> recommend for the sheets and tack line?  I'd like to try a single braid for
>>> that purpose, anyone has experience with the Control DPX from Samson (in
>>> 5/16, $1.44/ft at APS, 2.9 lbs/100ft).  The halyard is already in place.
>>> 
>>>   Also, am I correct that I will need to shackle a turning block on each of
>>> the aluminum piece at the end of the rail in order to lead the sheets fairly
>>> to the winch?
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance!
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Sébastien Lemieux
>>> Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
>>> Lake Champlain
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
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> 
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Re: Stus-List steering quadrant - EDSON says numbers up, flat side down

[Knowles Rich]

Alex. They were solid on my boat and I found some hex head replacements by 
chance at a ship supplier here. I turned them into flathead bolts on a lathe by 
undercutting the heads. If I had to do it over, I'd just use stainless bolts. 
They'll outlast me and the boat. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-13, at 21:04, Alex Giannelia  wrote:

That is fresh off the press from Edson, flat side down.
 
Now another question for Edson users, Does anyone have stock on those hollow 
bolts that go through the cockpit sole?  EDSON no longer carries them.
 
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Re: Stus-List A joy

[Knowles Rich]

Great story, JP. I may have missed this as I'm on a road trip, but can you post 
the coordinates of your final destination. Is it a yacht club or..?

Welcome to our little slice of madness. But we do have fun:)

Rich Knowles
INDIGO. LF38
Halifax. NS

From: "J.P." 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:26:47 PM
Subject: Stus-List A joy

Hi All,
 
I have never been a C&C owner until this past week.
 
I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than death… 
She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat slip in 
Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last week, and 
dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco Washington, 
where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.
 
I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed repairs. 
She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that’s the model) with 670 hours 
showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails and 9 more 
to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget Sound and 
actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where she was 
award prizes for racing in the area in the 80’s … but had not been used much 
(from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running rigging was in 
rough shape – so we redid a lot of that… put on some new dock lines, loaded it 
on a truck and sent it to Pasco.
 
The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called 
“Clarkston”. This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail 
navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the heat 
of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here. Also 
running up river is against a varying current depending on the season, rains, 
and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal cruising, 
to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have never done a river 
run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.  
 
Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on the 
river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low clearances.. one 
is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn’t risen. With the wind instruments and 
antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.
 
We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday, 
then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and Dam. A 
cabin cruiser about 30’ -  was “mis tied” against the lock and almost turned 
turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim platform. 
After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela ran 
flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a thunderstorm. 
The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in 40+mph winds.
 
The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little 
Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the Lower 
Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the whole 
process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing a sailboat 
upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very little in the 
way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had spares of “critical 
pieces”… but still after having the boat only 2-3 days, and it being in 6-8 
YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous.
 
Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled down 
to 70 degrees at dusk, I was eating a sandwich and drinking a cold Coke…. The 
music was wafting up out of the cabin, and I realized the trip had been 
uneventful and pretty good so far. Settling down to sleep with a gentle rocking 
motion at the mooring, we watched a paddle wheel boat carrying a couple hundred 
tourist passengers, barges full of wheat from the harvest, and fisheries barges 
carrying “juvenile fish” to deposit in the river… We had seen huge rock 
outcroppings, deer, eagles, herons, cranes, huge fish breaking the water…
 
The next day we left early, transitted the lock at Lower Granite, and headed 
home.
 
After tying off at the dock and securing the boat, (in about 100 degrees heat) 
I was washing down the decks, and these thoughts  occurred to me … the engine 
purred like a kitten (not one hiccup, running at 2850 RPM we produced hull 
speed at about .65 gallons per hour) , the boat was dry, and very comfortable. 
The tiller worked well with the little Simrad auto pilot, all the gauges worked 
(with a little twiddling on the wiring terminal blocks), the pressure water 
systems were perfect the boat slept well, handled well, and - every piece of it 
for being out of use for 5-7 years, were in a thought - far better than 
expected.
 
In short, the trip was a joy in a good boat. I’m glad I bought a C&C.
 
JP
 
Gabriela C&C 34
Clarkston Wa.

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h

Stus-List steering quadrant - EDSON says numbers up, flat side down

[Alex Giannelia]

That is fresh off the press from Edson, flat side down.

Now another question for Edson users, Does anyone have stock on those hollow 
bolts that go through the cockpit sole?  EDSON no longer carries them.

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Re: Stus-List A joy

[Chuck S]

Had to google where Clarkston, Wa could be. Amazing to learn it is on Snake 
River, the end of the Columbia River near Idaho! 
Great story. Well written. Look forward to many more. Welcome aboard. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "J.P."  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:26:47 PM 
Subject: Stus-List A joy 




Hi All, 



I have never been a C&C owner until this past week. 



I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978) s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than death… 
She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat slip in 
Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last week, and 
dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco Washington, 
where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge. 



I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed repairs. 
She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that’s the model) with 670 hours 
showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails and 9 more 
to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget Sound and 
actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where she was 
award prizes for racing in the area in the 80’s … but had not been used much 
(from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running rigging was in 
rough shape – so we redid a lot of that… put on some new dock lines, loaded it 
on a truck and sent it to Pasco. 



The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called 
“Clarkston”. This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run. This would entail 
navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the heat 
of August in eastern Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here. Also 
running up river is against a varying current depending on the season, rains, 
and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal cruising, 
to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes, I have never done a river 
run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before. 



Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on the 
river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low clearances.. one 
is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn’t risen. With the wind instruments and 
antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close. 



We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday, 
then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and Dam. A 
cabin cruiser about 30’ - was “mis tied” against the lock and almost turned 
turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim platform. 
After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela ran 
flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a thunderstorm. 
The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in 40+mph winds. 



The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little 
Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the Lower 
Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the whole 
process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing a sailboat 
upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very little in the 
way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had spares of “critical 
pieces”… but still after having the boat only 2-3 days, and it being in 6-8 
YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous. 



Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled down 
to 70 degrees at dusk, I was eating a sandwich and drinking a cold Coke…. The 
music was wafting up out of the cabin, and I realized the trip had been 
uneventful and pretty good so far. Settling down to sleep with a gentle rocking 
motion at the mooring, we watched a paddle wheel boat carrying a couple hundred 
tourist passengers, barges full of wheat from the harvest, and fisheries barges 
carrying “juvenile fish” to deposit in the river… We had seen huge rock 
outcroppings, deer, eagles, herons, cranes, huge fish breaking the water… 



The next day we left early, transitted the lock at Lower Granite, and headed 
home. 



After tying off at the dock and securing the boat, (in about 100 degrees heat) 
I was washing down the decks, and these thoughts occurred to me … the engine 
purred like a kitten (not one hiccup, running at 2850 RPM we produced hull 
speed at about .65 gallons per hour) , the boat was dry, and very comfortable. 
The tiller worked well with the little Simrad auto pilot, all the gauges worked 
(with a little twiddling on the wiring terminal blocks), the pressure water 
systems were perfect the boat slept well, handled well, and - every piece of it 
for being out of use for 5-7 years, were in a thought - far better than 
expected. 



In short, the trip was a joy in a good boat. I’m glad I bought a C&C. 



JP 



Gabriela C&C 34 

Clarkston Wa. 
___

Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1

[Jake Brodersen]

Gary,

My Martec does fine in reverse, I just have to run the rpms up to about
3,000 for it to respond.  Once I get some sternway, everything is fine.  It
certainly doesn't back down like a solid prop, but I love the low drag
properties.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
   





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1

My 30-1 with a 2QM15 came with a 13.5 x 9 fixed prop. The Martec props are
not noted for good thrust in reverse.

Gary
- Original Message -
From: "Curtis" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:29 PM
Subject: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1


I have just put a 2gm20F 18 hp
taking out a 2GM 13hp.
I have a Prop15Dx9P2 mertec folding prop. It has little to no reverst
and very little thrust foward? What is a good choice for a 2 ot 3
fixed blade prop for a 1981 C&C 30 MK1 with a 2gm20F and a kanzai
KM2P.
Thanks for your help
-- 
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails."

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Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinnaker setup on a 30 mk2

[Sébastien Lemieux]

My mast has two sheaves, both slightly below the forestay.  The boat came with 
two halyards forward of the mast, both in good condition.  I use one for the 
genoa (on a furler) and plan to use the second one for the asym.  I believe I 
have no choice but use the asym as a genoa and gybe between forestay and mast.  
By looking at the rigs on sailboatdata.com, it seems to me that both the 39 and 
the 35-3 also have a similar setup (all sheaves below the forestay).

The reason I mention the use in light air was that I was concerned about the 
weight of the sheets.  I'm currently using 5/8 sta-set as genoa sheets and 
although they are nice in the hand they really pull down on the sail when broad 
reaching in light air.  I'm not looking for sheets that are under-specced but 
might be willing to pay a bit more to get a lighter sheet.

Just for reference, the document I'm mentioning is here:  
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/spinnaker/spinnaker.htm

cheers,

Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Lake Champlain

On 2013-08-13, at 14:24 , Joel Aronson  wrote:

> I agree with Bill about the halyard and blocks.
> 70 feet of 5/16 is plenty.  You can use Sta-Set and spend the rest on a new 
> halyard.
> I flew my asym wing and wing last week in light air.  Boat speed went from 
> 2.3 knots to 3.3 knots after I gybed the main!
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> I have never heard of anyone using genoa halyards for an A sail, but maybe
> you could if you tacked it like a genoa. We always jibe ours out and around
> the headstay, inverting it.  Usually they are on a pennant, a few feet off
> the tack.  If you have an anchor roller that is substantial, it is best to
> get them away from the forestay, but of course only if you have it on a
> spinnaker halyard above everything, not on genny halyards. And yes, you need
> snatch blocks on the toe rail just like a regular spinnaker.
> 
> Famous Last Words:  "Will only Use this sail in light air"
> Always have an exit plan for heavy air!
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sébastien
> Lemieux
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 2:11 PM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinakker setup on a 30 mk2
> 
> Hello,
> 
>   I have an asym spi left from the PO that I would like to setup.  I've read
> through the DIY document on the photo album site and from this I assume that
> I will need to use it from an genoa halyard (both sheaves exit just slightly
> under the forestay).  I've got a few questions left:  The manual of the
> 30mk2 specifies 70' sheets for a symmetrical spi, should I go with the same
> length for an asym?  What should be the length of the line pulling the tack
> (what is the name of that line?)?
> 
>   I will use this sail only in light wind, what type of rope would you
> recommend for the sheets and tack line?  I'd like to try a single braid for
> that purpose, anyone has experience with the Control DPX from Samson (in
> 5/16, $1.44/ft at APS, 2.9 lbs/100ft).  The halyard is already in place.
> 
>   Also, am I correct that I will need to shackle a turning block on each of
> the aluminum piece at the end of the rail in order to lead the sheets fairly
> to the winch?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> --
> Sébastien Lemieux
> Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
> Lake Champlain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1

[André Dubois]

I have now a Campbell Sailer prop RH 13 x 8 x 7/8, with a 2QM15 Yanmar engine.  
The boat cruise 6+ kn at 2400 Rpm and I can still push the throttle to reach 
the max 3000 RPM.  Very happy too.

Andre
Triumph II
1980 C&C 30 MKI

-Message d'origine-
De : CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]De la part de Aaron
Rouhi
Envoyé : 13 août 2013 15:57
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Objet : Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1


I have recently switched to a Campbell Sailer Prop CS3RH13x7x7/8. It's a fixed 
three blade, Right Hand rotation, 13" diameter x 7" pitch for 7/8" SAE Std. 
taper shaft. I'm very happy with it. Very reasonable price, less prop walk and 
much less vibration compare to the old two blade MW... I have a 2QM15 on my 
boat.

Cheers,
Aaron
Admiral Maggie
1979 C&C 30 MK1 


On Aug 13, 2013, at 3:29 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:

> I have just put a 2gm20F 18 hp
> taking out a 2GM 13hp.
> I have a Prop15Dx9P2 mertec folding prop. It has little to no reverst
> and very little thrust foward? What is a good choice for a 2 ot 3
> fixed blade prop for a 1981 C&C 30 MK1 with a 2gm20F and a kanzai
> KM2P.
> Thanks for your help
> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List A joy

[Brent Driedger]

What a pleasure it is to read a story like that. Thank you for sharing. Thank 
you for resurrecting anther C&C. The 34s are great boats. Enjoy. 

Brent D
C&C 27-V
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-08-13, at 11:26 AM, "J.P."  wrote:

> Hi All,
>  
> I have never been a C&C owner until this past week.
>  
> I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than 
> death… She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat 
> slip in Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last 
> week, and dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco 
> Washington, where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.
>  
> I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed 
> repairs. She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that’s the model) with 
> 670 hours showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails 
> and 9 more to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget 
> Sound and actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where 
> she was award prizes for racing in the area in the 80’s … but had not been 
> used much (from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running rigging 
> was in rough shape – so we redid a lot of that… put on some new dock lines, 
> loaded it on a truck and sent it to Pasco.
>  
> The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called 
> “Clarkston”. This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail 
> navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the heat 
> of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here. Also 
> running up river is against a varying current depending on the season, rains, 
> and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal 
> cruising, to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have never 
> done a river run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.  
>  
> Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on 
> the river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low 
> clearances.. one is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn’t risen. With the 
> wind instruments and antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.
>  
> We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday, 
> then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and Dam. 
> A cabin cruiser about 30’ -  was “mis tied” against the lock and almost 
> turned turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim 
> platform. After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela 
> ran flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a 
> thunderstorm. The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in 
> 40+mph winds.
>  
> The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little 
> Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the 
> Lower Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the 
> whole process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing a 
> sailboat upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very 
> little in the way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had 
> spares of “critical pieces”… but still after having the boat only 2-3 days, 
> and it being in 6-8 YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous.
>  
> Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled 
> down to 70 degrees at dusk, I was eating a sandwich and drinking a cold 
> Coke…. The music was wafting up out of the cabin, and I realized the trip had 
> been uneventful and pretty good so far. Settling down to sleep with a gentle 
> rocking motion at the mooring, we watched a paddle wheel boat carrying a 
> couple hundred tourist passengers, barges full of wheat from the harvest, and 
> fisheries barges carrying “juvenile fish” to deposit in the river… We had 
> seen huge rock outcroppings, deer, eagles, herons, cranes, huge fish breaking 
> the water…
>  
> The next day we left early, transitted the lock at Lower Granite, and headed 
> home.
>  
> After tying off at the dock and securing the boat, (in about 100 degrees 
> heat) I was washing down the decks, and these thoughts  occurred to me … the 
> engine purred like a kitten (not one hiccup, running at 2850 RPM we produced 
> hull speed at about .65 gallons per hour) , the boat was dry, and very 
> comfortable. The tiller worked well with the little Simrad auto pilot, all 
> the gauges worked (with a little twiddling on the wiring terminal blocks), 
> the pressure water systems were perfect the boat slept well, handled well, 
> and - every piece of it for being out of use for 5-7 years, were in a thought 
> - far better than expected.
>  
> In short, the trip was a joy in a good boat. I’m glad I bought a C&C.
>  
> JP
>  
> Gabriela C&C 34
> Clarkston Wa.
> __

Re: Stus-List A joy

[Bob]

Great story.  Welcome to the C&C world.  

 

My last C&C in Seattle was a 34.  Bought her new in, I think, 1979, light
grey hull w a Yanmar.  We had a large fleet of 34's there.  Sold her in the
mid 80's.  Never got a plaque for winning races since we only participated
in the Lake Union Wednesday night races.  Not certain if any of us won but
we had wonderful times and our boats proudly bore the marks of our
misbehavior.  She has been to Desolation Sound a couple times and knew the
San Juans well.

 

If by chance my 34 is now yours, I'm delighted she is in such good hands.  

 

Bob Morgan

Quicksea

C&C37

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Stus-List C&C 115 racing Fastnet

[Martin DeYoung]

I noticed there is a C&C racing in the Rolex Fastnet Race this year.

The C&C 115 "Change of Course" (GBR9070R, Div. C) is well back in the pack with 
a long way to go to the Fastnet light rounding but it is cool to see a C&C 
participating.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

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Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1

[Gary Nylander]

My 30-1 with a 2QM15 came with a 13.5 x 9 fixed prop. The Martec props are 
not noted for good thrust in reverse.


Gary
- Original Message - 
From: "Curtis" 

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:29 PM
Subject: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1


I have just put a 2gm20F 18 hp
taking out a 2GM 13hp.
I have a Prop15Dx9P2 mertec folding prop. It has little to no reverst
and very little thrust foward? What is a good choice for a 2 ot 3
fixed blade prop for a 1981 C&C 30 MK1 with a 2gm20F and a kanzai
KM2P.
Thanks for your help
--
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com



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Re: Stus-List A joy

[J.P.]

Hi,

 

It took a bit of calculating and paying attention to the charts and such,
but it's a good trip and plenty of sailing along the way. The bridges are
what cause you to come up with dirty shorts.


JP

 

From: Bill Coleman [mailto:colt...@verizon.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 11:35 AM
To: ja...@jpiworldwide.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List A joy

 

Holy Crap!

I would never have thought you could go that far up the creek with 6 foot
draft - but the spar on deck, I assume.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A joy

 

Hi,


That's one of the things about the Snake River that most people don't
realize is that the sailing is good here. The Snake river was modified in
the '60's and 70's to be one long flood control project. So it's at least
40' deep in most places, and up to 120'. The river is also wide, and the
whole 104 mile length back down to the Columbia is all good sailing with
lots of great scenery.


There is plenty of prevailing westerlies, and the run down river is a lot
easier than up. And that down river run leads to the Columbia, which leads
to the Pacific. So, we took it as far UPRIVER as we could, are going to
spend the winter getting the boat ready (you can sail here in the LC Valley
in the winter time as the river doesn't freeze and the weather is fairly
moderate - we have a permanent thermal inversion here which keeps the
weather unusually mild in the winter). And then sail down to
Portland/Astoria, back up to Seattle, and maybe a California trip.. So yeah
the sailing is good.


JP

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A joy

 

Great story!

I just have to ask - now the boat is way up a river, is there sailing to be
had where she is?

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A joy

 

Hi All,

 

I have never been a C&C owner until this past week. 

 

I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than
death. She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat
slip in Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last
week, and dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco
Washington, where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.

 

I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed
repairs. She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that's the model) with
670 hours showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails
and 9 more to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget
Sound and actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where
she was award prizes for racing in the area in the 80's . but had not been
used much (from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running
rigging was in rough shape - so we redid a lot of that. put on some new dock
lines, loaded it on a truck and sent it to Pasco. 

 

The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called
"Clarkston". This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail
navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the
heat of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here.
Also running up river is against a varying current depending on the season,
rains, and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal
cruising, to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have never
done a river run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.  

 

Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on
the river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low
clearances.. one is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn't risen. With the
wind instruments and antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.

 

We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday,
then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and
Dam. A cabin cruiser about 30' -  was "mis tied" against the lock and almost
turned turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim
platform. After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela
ran flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a
thunderstorm. The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in
40+mph winds. 

 

The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little
Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the
Lower Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the
whole process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringi

Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1

[Aaron Rouhi]

I have recently switched to a Campbell Sailer Prop CS3RH13x7x7/8. It's a fixed 
three blade, Right Hand rotation, 13" diameter x 7" pitch for 7/8" SAE Std. 
taper shaft. I'm very happy with it. Very reasonable price, less prop walk and 
much less vibration compare to the old two blade MW... I have a 2QM15 on my 
boat.

Cheers,
Aaron
Admiral Maggie
1979 C&C 30 MK1 


On Aug 13, 2013, at 3:29 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:

> I have just put a 2gm20F 18 hp
> taking out a 2GM 13hp.
> I have a Prop15Dx9P2 mertec folding prop. It has little to no reverst
> and very little thrust foward? What is a good choice for a 2 ot 3
> fixed blade prop for a 1981 C&C 30 MK1 with a 2gm20F and a kanzai
> KM2P.
> Thanks for your help
> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1

[Della Barba, Joe]

What RPM can you reach now?
Do you know the gear ratios on the old and new engines?

Joe Della Barba


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:30 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1

I have just put a 2gm20F 18 hp
taking out a 2GM 13hp.
I have a Prop15Dx9P2 mertec folding prop. It has little to no reverst and very 
little thrust foward? What is a good choice for a 2 ot 3 fixed blade prop for a 
1981 C&C 30 MK1 with a 2gm20F and a kanzai KM2P.
Thanks for your help
--
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the 
realist adjusts the sails."

___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1

[Curtis]

I have just put a 2gm20F 18 hp
taking out a 2GM 13hp.
I have a Prop15Dx9P2 mertec folding prop. It has little to no reverst
and very little thrust foward? What is a good choice for a 2 ot 3
fixed blade prop for a 1981 C&C 30 MK1 with a 2gm20F and a kanzai
KM2P.
Thanks for your help
-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List transmissions in gearwhile sailing

[Tim Goodyear]

Good plan!  I have developed a slow leak at the fuel lift pump, and the
yard was thinking of pulling the engine - a hatch would be much easier...

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 11:22 AM, Alan Bergen wrote:

>  I cut an access panel in the quarter-berth that makes it easier to see
> the shaft.  It also gives me visibility to replace the oil dipstick.
>
> Alan Bergen
> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
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Re: Stus-List A joy

[Bill Coleman]

Holy Crap!

I would never have thought you could go that far up the creek with 6 foot
draft - but the spar on deck, I assume.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A joy

 

Hi,


That's one of the things about the Snake River that most people don't
realize is that the sailing is good here. The Snake river was modified in
the '60's and 70's to be one long flood control project. So it's at least
40' deep in most places, and up to 120'. The river is also wide, and the
whole 104 mile length back down to the Columbia is all good sailing with
lots of great scenery.


There is plenty of prevailing westerlies, and the run down river is a lot
easier than up. And that down river run leads to the Columbia, which leads
to the Pacific. So, we took it as far UPRIVER as we could, are going to
spend the winter getting the boat ready (you can sail here in the LC Valley
in the winter time as the river doesn't freeze and the weather is fairly
moderate - we have a permanent thermal inversion here which keeps the
weather unusually mild in the winter). And then sail down to
Portland/Astoria, back up to Seattle, and maybe a California trip.. So yeah
the sailing is good.


JP

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A joy

 

Great story!

I just have to ask - now the boat is way up a river, is there sailing to be
had where she is?

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A joy

 

Hi All,

 

I have never been a C&C owner until this past week. 

 

I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than
death. She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat
slip in Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last
week, and dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco
Washington, where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.

 

I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed
repairs. She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that's the model) with
670 hours showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails
and 9 more to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget
Sound and actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where
she was award prizes for racing in the area in the 80's . but had not been
used much (from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running
rigging was in rough shape - so we redid a lot of that. put on some new dock
lines, loaded it on a truck and sent it to Pasco. 

 

The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called
"Clarkston". This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail
navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the
heat of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here.
Also running up river is against a varying current depending on the season,
rains, and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal
cruising, to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have never
done a river run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.  

 

Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on
the river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low
clearances.. one is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn't risen. With the
wind instruments and antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.

 

We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday,
then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and
Dam. A cabin cruiser about 30' -  was "mis tied" against the lock and almost
turned turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim
platform. After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela
ran flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a
thunderstorm. The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in
40+mph winds. 

 

The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little
Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the
Lower Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the
whole process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing a
sailboat upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very
little in the way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had
spares of "critical pieces". but still after having the boat only 2-3 days,
and it being in 6-8 YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous. 

 

Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled
down to 70 degre

Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinnaker setup on a 30 mk2

[Joel Aronson]

I agree with Bill about the halyard and blocks.
70 feet of 5/16 is plenty.  You can use Sta-Set and spend the rest on a new
halyard.
I flew my asym wing and wing last week in light air.  Boat speed went from
2.3 knots to 3.3 knots after I gybed the main!
Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

> I have never heard of anyone using genoa halyards for an A sail, but maybe
> you could if you tacked it like a genoa. We always jibe ours out and around
> the headstay, inverting it.  Usually they are on a pennant, a few feet off
> the tack.  If you have an anchor roller that is substantial, it is best to
> get them away from the forestay, but of course only if you have it on a
> spinnaker halyard above everything, not on genny halyards. And yes, you
> need
> snatch blocks on the toe rail just like a regular spinnaker.
>
> Famous Last Words:  "Will only Use this sail in light air"
> Always have an exit plan for heavy air!
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> Sébastien
> Lemieux
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 2:11 PM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinakker setup on a 30 mk2
>
> Hello,
>
>   I have an asym spi left from the PO that I would like to setup.  I've
> read
> through the DIY document on the photo album site and from this I assume
> that
> I will need to use it from an genoa halyard (both sheaves exit just
> slightly
> under the forestay).  I've got a few questions left:  The manual of the
> 30mk2 specifies 70' sheets for a symmetrical spi, should I go with the same
> length for an asym?  What should be the length of the line pulling the tack
> (what is the name of that line?)?
>
>   I will use this sail only in light wind, what type of rope would you
> recommend for the sheets and tack line?  I'd like to try a single braid for
> that purpose, anyone has experience with the Control DPX from Samson (in
> 5/16, $1.44/ft at APS, 2.9 lbs/100ft).  The halyard is already in place.
>
>   Also, am I correct that I will need to shackle a turning block on each of
> the aluminum piece at the end of the rail in order to lead the sheets
> fairly
> to the winch?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> --
> Sébastien Lemieux
> Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
> Lake Champlain
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinnaker setup on a 30 mk2

[Bill Coleman]

I have never heard of anyone using genoa halyards for an A sail, but maybe
you could if you tacked it like a genoa. We always jibe ours out and around
the headstay, inverting it.  Usually they are on a pennant, a few feet off
the tack.  If you have an anchor roller that is substantial, it is best to
get them away from the forestay, but of course only if you have it on a
spinnaker halyard above everything, not on genny halyards. And yes, you need
snatch blocks on the toe rail just like a regular spinnaker.

Famous Last Words:  "Will only Use this sail in light air"
Always have an exit plan for heavy air! 

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sébastien
Lemieux
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 2:11 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinakker setup on a 30 mk2

Hello,

  I have an asym spi left from the PO that I would like to setup.  I've read
through the DIY document on the photo album site and from this I assume that
I will need to use it from an genoa halyard (both sheaves exit just slightly
under the forestay).  I've got a few questions left:  The manual of the
30mk2 specifies 70' sheets for a symmetrical spi, should I go with the same
length for an asym?  What should be the length of the line pulling the tack
(what is the name of that line?)?

  I will use this sail only in light wind, what type of rope would you
recommend for the sheets and tack line?  I'd like to try a single braid for
that purpose, anyone has experience with the Control DPX from Samson (in
5/16, $1.44/ft at APS, 2.9 lbs/100ft).  The halyard is already in place.

  Also, am I correct that I will need to shackle a turning block on each of
the aluminum piece at the end of the rail in order to lead the sheets fairly
to the winch?

Thanks in advance!

--
Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Lake Champlain




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List Asymmetrical spinakker setup on a 30 mk2

[Sébastien Lemieux]

Hello,

  I have an asym spi left from the PO that I would like to setup.  I've read 
through the DIY document on the photo album site and from this I assume that I 
will need to use it from an genoa halyard (both sheaves exit just slightly 
under the forestay).  I've got a few questions left:  The manual of the 30mk2 
specifies 70' sheets for a symmetrical spi, should I go with the same length 
for an asym?  What should be the length of the line pulling the tack (what is 
the name of that line?)?

  I will use this sail only in light wind, what type of rope would you 
recommend for the sheets and tack line?  I'd like to try a single braid for 
that purpose, anyone has experience with the Control DPX from Samson (in 5/16, 
$1.44/ft at APS, 2.9 lbs/100ft).  The halyard is already in place.

  Also, am I correct that I will need to shackle a turning block on each of the 
aluminum piece at the end of the rail in order to lead the sheets fairly to the 
winch?

Thanks in advance!

--
Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Lake Champlain




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Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

[Dennis C.]

Check/calibrate your tachometer with an optical tachometer,  They aren't 
terribly expensive and are very easy to use. Try eBay or Amazon.com.  


Also, you might be able to rent one locally.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Tony Wroblewski 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:31 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine
> 
>
>
> 
>Don't know but will sure try.  thanks everyone for the comments
>
>
>
>
>Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 09:25:59 -0400
>From: joel.aron...@gmail.com
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine
>
>
>Tony,
>
>
>Does it rev to 3600 in neutral?  If not, could be a bad tach.
>
>
>
>On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Tony Wroblewski  wrote:
>
>I also have a  C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to repower.  
>Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP.  My problem however 
>is it doesn't want to develop more than 2800 RPM.  Have a Martec 17x10 folding 
>prop.  Any suggestions.  I have owned the boat since new and it's always been 
>that way.  What props do others have on their 41s
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:21:47 -0400
>>From: rsh...@optonline.net
>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine
>>
>>
>>Paul,
>>I have a 1984 C&C 41. No, I have not done an engine swap but I would be real 
>>interested in the details
>>of the project. Seems that getting the old engine out would be the main 
>>concern. Relocating 
>>engine mounts should not be a problem. Of course putting the new engine in 
>>would be interesting.
>>I am not contemplating an engine swap but I have played "what if" and thought 
>>that cutting the cockpit
>>floor out and lifting the engine straight up would solve engine removal 
>>issues. With the  engine out you would have unrestricted access for 
>>fiberglassing, painting, soundproofing and anything else you want to do down 
>>there.
>>Good luck,
>>Ray Shibe
>>Stinky Dog.
>>
>>
>>On Sun, Aug 04, 2013 at 07:17 PM, Paul Parsons wrote:
>>
>>
>>I would like to ask the membership if any C&C 41 owners have done an 
>>re-engine to the Yanmar 3JH5(39hp), removing a 3HMF(27 hp), has this been 
>>done before.
>>> 
>>>Thank you.
>>>
>>>
>>>Paul
>>>
>>>
>>>Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>___
>>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>___
>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
>-- 
>Joel 
>301 541 8551 
>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A joy

[Martin DeYoung]

JP,

Congrats on your new boat and thanks for the write up of your trip to Clarkston.

Was your C&C known as Gabriela when it was racing around the PNW in the 80's?

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A joy

Hi,

That's one of the things about the Snake River that most people don't realize 
is that the sailing is good here. The Snake river was modified in the '60's and 
70's to be one long flood control project. So it's at least 40' deep in most 
places, and up to 120'. The river is also wide, and the whole 104 mile length 
back down to the Columbia is all good sailing with lots of great scenery.

There is plenty of prevailing westerlies, and the run down river is a lot 
easier than up... And that down river run leads to the Columbia, which leads to 
the Pacific. So, we took it as far UPRIVER as we could, are going to spend the 
winter getting the boat ready (you can sail here in the LC Valley in the winter 
time as the river doesn't freeze and the weather is fairly moderate - we have a 
permanent thermal inversion here which keeps the weather unusually mild in the 
winter)... And then sail down to Portland/Astoria, back up to Seattle, and 
maybe a California trip.. So yeah the sailing is good.

JP

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A joy

Great story!
I just have to ask - now the boat is way up a river, is there sailing to be had 
where she is?

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

[Tony Wroblewski]

Don't know but will sure try.  thanks everyone for the comments

Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 09:25:59 -0400
From: joel.aron...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

Tony,
Does it rev to 3600 in neutral?  If not, could be a bad tach.

On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Tony Wroblewski  wrote:







I also have a  C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to repower.  
Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP.  My problem however 
is it doesn't want to develop more than 2800 RPM.  Have a Martec 17x10 folding 
prop.  Any suggestions.  I have owned the boat since new and it's always been 
that way.  What props do others have on their 41s


Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:21:47 -0400
From: rsh...@optonline.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

Paul,I have a 1984 C&C 41. No, I have not done an engine swap but I would be 
real interested in the details
of the project. Seems that getting the old engine out would be the main 
concern. Relocating engine mounts should not be a problem. Of course putting 
the new engine in would be interesting.
I am not contemplating an engine swap but I have played "what if" and thought 
that cutting the cockpitfloor out and lifting the engine straight up would 
solve engine removal issues. With the  engine out you would have unrestricted 
access for fiberglassing, painting, soundproofing and anything else you want to 
do down there.
Good luck,Ray ShibeStinky Dog.

On Sun, Aug 04, 2013 at 07:17 PM, Paul Parsons wrote:


I would like to ask the membership if any C&C 41 owners have done an re-engine 
to the Yanmar 3JH5(39hp), removing a 3HMF(27 hp), has this been done before.
 Thank you.
Paul


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301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List A joy

[J.P.]

Oh, and there are a couple of sailig clubs here - one for trimarans and
another for J25s

 

JP

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A joy

 

Great story!

I just have to ask - now the boat is way up a river, is there sailing to be
had where she is?

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A joy

 

Hi All,

 

I have never been a C&C owner until this past week. 

 

I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than
death. She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat
slip in Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last
week, and dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco
Washington, where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.

 

I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed
repairs. She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that's the model) with
670 hours showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails
and 9 more to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget
Sound and actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where
she was award prizes for racing in the area in the 80's . but had not been
used much (from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running
rigging was in rough shape - so we redid a lot of that. put on some new dock
lines, loaded it on a truck and sent it to Pasco. 

 

The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called
"Clarkston". This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail
navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the
heat of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here.
Also running up river is against a varying current depending on the season,
rains, and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal
cruising, to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have never
done a river run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.  

 

Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on
the river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low
clearances.. one is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn't risen. With the
wind instruments and antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.

 

We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday,
then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and
Dam. A cabin cruiser about 30' -  was "mis tied" against the lock and almost
turned turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim
platform. After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela
ran flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a
thunderstorm. The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in
40+mph winds. 

 

The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little
Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the
Lower Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the
whole process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing a
sailboat upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very
little in the way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had
spares of "critical pieces". but still after having the boat only 2-3 days,
and it being in 6-8 YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous. 

 

Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled
down to 70 degrees at dusk, I was eating a sandwich and drinking a cold
Coke.. The music was wafting up out of the cabin, and I realized the trip
had been uneventful and pretty good so far. Settling down to sleep with a
gentle rocking motion at the mooring, we watched a paddle wheel boat
carrying a couple hundred tourist passengers, barges full of wheat from the
harvest, and fisheries barges carrying "juvenile fish" to deposit in the
river. We had seen huge rock outcroppings, deer, eagles, herons, cranes,
huge fish breaking the water.

 

The next day we left early, transitted the lock at Lower Granite, and headed
home. 

 

After tying off at the dock and securing the boat, (in about 100 degrees
heat) I was washing down the decks, and these thoughts  occurred to me . the
engine purred like a kitten (not one hiccup, running at 2850 RPM we produced
hull speed at about .65 gallons per hour) , the boat was dry, and very
comfortable. The tiller worked well with the little Simrad auto pilot, all
the gauges worked (with a little twiddling on the wiring terminal blocks),
the pressure water systems were perfect the boat slept well, handled well,
and - every piece of it for being out of use for 5-7 years, were in a
thought - far better than expected.

Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

[Rick Brass]

I had a 2 blade Martec folder on my 38, with a Universal M35B (36hp) and
HBW100 transmission (1.76 reduction). The recommended prop from Martec based
on this engine/transmission and a 15,000 pound boat was a 16x10 ½. I had
found a 17x10 for cheap and had it reconditioned for use on the boat, and
experienced the same condition you indicate. Max RPM of the engine is 3000,
but I could only get 25-2600 from the engine with the 17” prop.

 

I have since been told that 1” of diameter increases thrust and torque
approximately twice as much as 1” of pitch. So the 17x10 is about the same
load on the engine as a 16x12, and was considered too much prop for the
power available.

 

I have gone back to a 16x10 ½ 2 blade fixed prop for cruising. Mostly
because of the improved ability to back the boat. But I also have a 2 blade
Gori 16 ½x11 (which is what Gori recommended for the boat) which I may
install eventually. Apparently the Gori has less blade area than the Martec,
which accounts for the difference in recommended prop.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi -1976 C&C 38 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tony
Wroblewski
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 8:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

 

I also have a  C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to repower.
Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP.  My problem
however is it doesn't want to develop more than 2800 RPM.  Have a Martec
17x10 folding prop.  Any suggestions.  I have owned the boat since new and
it's always been that way.  What props do others have on their 41s

  _  

Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:21:47 -0400
From: rsh...@optonline.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

Paul,

I have a 1984 C&C 41. No, I have not done an engine swap but I would be real
interested in the details

of the project. Seems that getting the old engine out would be the main
concern. Relocating 

engine mounts should not be a problem. Of course putting the new engine in
would be interesting.

I am not contemplating an engine swap but I have played "what if" and
thought that cutting the cockpit

floor out and lifting the engine straight up would solve engine removal
issues. With the  engine out you would have unrestricted access for
fiberglassing, painting, soundproofing and anything else you want to do down
there.

Good luck,

Ray Shibe

Stinky Dog.



On Sun, Aug 04, 2013 at 07:17 PM, Paul Parsons wrote:

I would like to ask the membership if any C&C 41 owners have done an
re-engine to the Yanmar 3JH5(39hp), removing a 3HMF(27 hp), has this been
done before.

 

Thank you.

 

Paul

 


Sent from my iPad

  _  

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Re: Stus-List A joy

[J.P.]

Hi,


That's one of the things about the Snake River that most people don't
realize is that the sailing is good here. The Snake river was modified in
the '60's and 70's to be one long flood control project. So it's at least
40' deep in most places, and up to 120'. The river is also wide, and the
whole 104 mile length back down to the Columbia is all good sailing with
lots of great scenery.


There is plenty of prevailing westerlies, and the run down river is a lot
easier than up. And that down river run leads to the Columbia, which leads
to the Pacific. So, we took it as far UPRIVER as we could, are going to
spend the winter getting the boat ready (you can sail here in the LC Valley
in the winter time as the river doesn't freeze and the weather is fairly
moderate - we have a permanent thermal inversion here which keeps the
weather unusually mild in the winter). And then sail down to
Portland/Astoria, back up to Seattle, and maybe a California trip.. So yeah
the sailing is good.


JP

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A joy

 

Great story!

I just have to ask - now the boat is way up a river, is there sailing to be
had where she is?

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A joy

 

Hi All,

 

I have never been a C&C owner until this past week. 

 

I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than
death. She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat
slip in Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last
week, and dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco
Washington, where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.

 

I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed
repairs. She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that's the model) with
670 hours showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails
and 9 more to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget
Sound and actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where
she was award prizes for racing in the area in the 80's . but had not been
used much (from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running
rigging was in rough shape - so we redid a lot of that. put on some new dock
lines, loaded it on a truck and sent it to Pasco. 

 

The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called
"Clarkston". This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail
navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the
heat of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here.
Also running up river is against a varying current depending on the season,
rains, and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal
cruising, to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have never
done a river run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.  

 

Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on
the river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low
clearances.. one is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn't risen. With the
wind instruments and antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.

 

We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday,
then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and
Dam. A cabin cruiser about 30' -  was "mis tied" against the lock and almost
turned turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim
platform. After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela
ran flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a
thunderstorm. The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in
40+mph winds. 

 

The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little
Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the
Lower Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the
whole process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing a
sailboat upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very
little in the way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had
spares of "critical pieces". but still after having the boat only 2-3 days,
and it being in 6-8 YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous. 

 

Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled
down to 70 degrees at dusk, I was eating a sandwich and drinking a cold
Coke.. The music was wafting up out of the cabin, and I realized the trip
had been uneventful and pretty good so far. Settling down to sleep with a
gentle rocking motion at the mooring, we watched a paddle wheel boat
carrying a couple hundred tourist passengers, barges full of wheat fro

Re: Stus-List A joy

[Joel Aronson]

JP,

What a great first experience!  Welcome aboard!

You'll find that the people on this list have the answers to almost any
question, no matter how simple or complex.  Hope you continue to enjoy your
boat

Joel
35/3
Annapolis




On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 12:26 PM, J.P.  wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> ** **
>
> I have never been a C&C owner until this past week. 
>
> ** **
>
> I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than
> death… She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat
> slip in Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last
> week, and dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco
> Washington, where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.
>
> ** **
>
> I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed
> repairs. She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that’s the model) with
> 670 hours showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C
> sails and 9 more to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the
> Puget Sound and actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner
> bulkhead where she was award prizes for racing in the area in the 80’s …
> but had not been used much (from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008.
> The running rigging was in rough shape – so we redid a lot of that… put on
> some new dock lines, loaded it on a truck and sent it to Pasco. 
>
> ** **
>
> The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called
> “Clarkston”. This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail
> navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the
> heat of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here.
> Also running up river is against a varying current depending on the season,
> rains, and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal
> cruising, to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have
> never done a river run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.  
>
> ** **
>
> Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on
> the river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low
> clearances.. one is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn’t risen. With the
> wind instruments and antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.
>
> ** **
>
> We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on
> Saturday, then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor
> Lock and Dam. A cabin cruiser about 30’ -  was “mis tied” against the lock
> and almost turned turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall
> by swim platform. After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river.
> Gabriela ran flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a
> thunderstorm. The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in
> 40+mph winds. 
>
> ** **
>
> The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through
> Little Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of
> the Lower Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about
> the whole process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing
> a sailboat upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very
> little in the way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had
> spares of “critical pieces”… but still after having the boat only 2-3 days,
> and it being in 6-8 YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous. 
>
> ** **
>
> Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled
> down to 70 degrees at dusk, I was eating a sandwich and drinking a cold
> Coke…. The music was wafting up out of the cabin, and I realized the trip
> had been uneventful and pretty good so far. Settling down to sleep with a
> gentle rocking motion at the mooring, we watched a paddle wheel boat
> carrying a couple hundred tourist passengers, barges full of wheat from the
> harvest, and fisheries barges carrying “juvenile fish” to deposit in the
> river… We had seen huge rock outcroppings, deer, eagles, herons, cranes,
> huge fish breaking the water…
>
> ** **
>
> The next day we left early, transitted the lock at Lower Granite, and
> headed home. 
>
> ** **
>
> After tying off at the dock and securing the boat, (in about 100 degrees
> heat) I was washing down the decks, and these thoughts  occurred to me …
> the engine purred like a kitten (not one hiccup, running at 2850 RPM we
> produced hull speed at about .65 gallons per hour) , the boat was dry, and
> very comfortable. The tiller worked well with the little Simrad auto pilot,
> all the gauges worked (with a little twiddling on the wiring terminal
> blocks), the pressure water systems were perfect the boat slept well,
> handled well, and - every piece of it for being out of use for 5-7 years,
> were in a thought - far better than expected. 
>
> ** **
>
> In short, the trip was a joy in a good boat

Re: Stus-List A joy

[Della Barba, Joe]

Great story!
I just have to ask - now the boat is way up a river, is there sailing to be had 
where she is?

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A joy

Hi All,

I have never been a C&C owner until this past week.

I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than 
death... She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat 
slip in Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last 
week, and dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco 
Washington, where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.

I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed repairs. 
She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that's the model) with 670 hours 
showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails and 9 more 
to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget Sound and 
actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where she was 
award prizes for racing in the area in the 80's ... but had not been used much 
(from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running rigging was in 
rough shape - so we redid a lot of that... put on some new dock lines, loaded 
it on a truck and sent it to Pasco.

The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called 
"Clarkston". This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail 
navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the heat 
of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here. Also 
running up river is against a varying current depending on the season, rains, 
and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal cruising, 
to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have never done a river 
run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.

Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on the 
river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low clearances.. one 
is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn't risen. With the wind instruments and 
antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.

We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday, 
then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and Dam. A 
cabin cruiser about 30' -  was "mis tied" against the lock and almost turned 
turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim platform. 
After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela ran 
flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a thunderstorm. 
The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in 40+mph winds.

The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little 
Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the Lower 
Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the whole 
process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing a sailboat 
upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very little in the 
way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had spares of "critical 
pieces"... but still after having the boat only 2-3 days, and it being in 6-8 
YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous.

Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled down 
to 70 degrees at dusk, I was eating a sandwich and drinking a cold Coke The 
music was wafting up out of the cabin, and I realized the trip had been 
uneventful and pretty good so far. Settling down to sleep with a gentle rocking 
motion at the mooring, we watched a paddle wheel boat carrying a couple hundred 
tourist passengers, barges full of wheat from the harvest, and fisheries barges 
carrying "juvenile fish" to deposit in the river... We had seen huge rock 
outcroppings, deer, eagles, herons, cranes, huge fish breaking the water...

The next day we left early, transitted the lock at Lower Granite, and headed 
home.

After tying off at the dock and securing the boat, (in about 100 degrees heat) 
I was washing down the decks, and these thoughts  occurred to me ... the engine 
purred like a kitten (not one hiccup, running at 2850 RPM we produced hull 
speed at about .65 gallons per hour) , the boat was dry, and very comfortable. 
The tiller worked well with the little Simrad auto pilot, all the gauges worked 
(with a little twiddling on the wiring terminal blocks), the pressure water 
systems were perfect the boat slept well, handled well, and - every piece of it 
for being out of use for 5-7 years, were in a thought - far better than 
expected.

In short, the trip was a joy in a good boat. I'm glad I bought a C&C.

JP

Gabriela C&C 34
Clarkston Wa.
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List A joy

[J.P.]

Hi All,

 

I have never been a C&C owner until this past week. 

 

I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978)  s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than
death. She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat
slip in Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last
week, and dismasted it in Seattle, and prepped her for trucking to Pasco
Washington, where the Columbia and Snake rivers converge.

 

I had 3 days to check out the boat in Seattle and make the most needed
repairs. She is powered with a Yanmar SGM30 (I think that's the model) with
670 hours showing on the Hobbs meter, a folding prop, the original C&C sails
and 9 more to boot. She had been some what known as a racer in the Puget
Sound and actually has a couple of bronze plates on her inner bulkhead where
she was award prizes for racing in the area in the 80's . but had not been
used much (from what I could tell) since about 2007-2008. The running
rigging was in rough shape - so we redid a lot of that. put on some new dock
lines, loaded it on a truck and sent it to Pasco. 

 

The goal was to run up river to a small town in Eastern Washington called
"Clarkston". This would be about a 104 mile UPRIVER run.  This would entail
navigation among the barges, moving up 4 sets of locks, and enduring the
heat of August in eastern  Washington (it often reaches 100+ degrees here.
Also running up river is against a varying current depending on the season,
rains, and shifting sand bars. Although I have done everything from coastal
cruising, to blue water sailing to sailing on the Great lakes,  I have never
done a river run on the Columbia and Snake rivers before.  

 

Besides the work entailed in moving through the lock system, the levels on
the river change quite a bit. There are bridges that have very low
clearances.. one is at 52 feet. 52 Feet if the water hasn't risen. With the
wind instruments and antenna, 52 feet seems pretty close.

 

We left the docks at Pasco and headed down the Columbia at noon on Saturday,
then went into our first lock at 15:00. This was the Ice Harbor Lock and
Dam. A cabin cruiser about 30' -  was "mis tied" against the lock and almost
turned turtle after getting caught on the side of the lock wall by swim
platform. After that, we fired up the Yanmar and went on up river. Gabriela
ran flawlessly and we got to Windust park by dark, just ahead of a
thunderstorm. The cabin stayed dry and the boat rocked along at the dock in
40+mph winds. 

 

The next morning we moved on to the Lower Monumental Dam, and through Little
Goose Dam and finally came to rest at the Byron marina just short of the
Lower Granite Dam. Since this was my first C&C I was apprehensive about the
whole process because of the river sand bars, and the feat of bringing a
sailboat upriver into territory that was unfamiliar. Also there is very
little in the way of any kinds of repair services along the route. I had
spares of "critical pieces". but still after having the boat only 2-3 days,
and it being in 6-8 YEARS of disarray, I was a tad nervous. 

 

Sitting at the tie off in Byron, reflecting on the day, the weather cooled
down to 70 degrees at dusk, I was eating a sandwich and drinking a cold
Coke.. The music was wafting up out of the cabin, and I realized the trip
had been uneventful and pretty good so far. Settling down to sleep with a
gentle rocking motion at the mooring, we watched a paddle wheel boat
carrying a couple hundred tourist passengers, barges full of wheat from the
harvest, and fisheries barges carrying "juvenile fish" to deposit in the
river. We had seen huge rock outcroppings, deer, eagles, herons, cranes,
huge fish breaking the water.

 

The next day we left early, transitted the lock at Lower Granite, and headed
home. 

 

After tying off at the dock and securing the boat, (in about 100 degrees
heat) I was washing down the decks, and these thoughts  occurred to me . the
engine purred like a kitten (not one hiccup, running at 2850 RPM we produced
hull speed at about .65 gallons per hour) , the boat was dry, and very
comfortable. The tiller worked well with the little Simrad auto pilot, all
the gauges worked (with a little twiddling on the wiring terminal blocks),
the pressure water systems were perfect the boat slept well, handled well,
and - every piece of it for being out of use for 5-7 years, were in a
thought - far better than expected. 

 

In short, the trip was a joy in a good boat. I'm glad I bought a C&C.

 

JP 

 

Gabriela C&C 34

Clarkston Wa.

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Re: Stus-List Propeller size for 35-2

[dwight veinot]

3 blade H5 Autoprop powered by Universal M4-30.  Self pitching auto forward
and reverse and self fairing. In reverse gear while under sail.
Great prop / engine combo: forward and reverse equal power and drives the
boat over six into a sea and 25 kt headwind.

On Tuesday, August 13, 2013, Alex Giannelia wrote:

>
> WHAT size of props do the listers have who sail the 35MkII? AND what sort
> of engines are they matched to and what is the shaft diameter and the
> unsupported length aft of the strut??
>
> I am starting to install the electric and have had numerous discussions
> with the supplier concerning proper pitch and diameter.   So I wanted to
> know what the listers are using.
>
> ALEX GIANNELIA
>
> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
> Toronto Ontario
>
>
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>
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Re: Stus-List [SP@M]Re: [SP@M]

[Frederick G Street]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anwy2MPT5RE

This is actually sailing-related; there's a Viking ship partway through…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 12, 2013, at 6:40 PM, Colin Kilgour  wrote:

> Imagine the headache this must cause the poor IT admins at Hormel!
> 
> Cheers
> Colin
> 
> 
> On 8/12/13, Stu  wrote:
>> 
>> Please, please when replying to an email and the subject line contains the
>> word [SPAM] delete the word.  Some member's email programs will reject the
>> email just because of the word [SPAM] being there.

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Re: Stus-List transmissions in gearwhile sailing

[Alan Bergen]

I cut an access panel in the quarter-berth that makes it easier to see the 
shaft. It also gives me visibility to replace the oil dipstick. 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

[Steve Thomas]

Check valves can and do stick shut sometimes.
Happened on a boat I was on once.
The owner was all set to install the backup pump, but poking the check valve 
solved the problem.
No idea what made it stick that one time.
Some somewhat adhesive "piece of crap" most likely I suppose.
In any case I would want it to be easily accessible if installed.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ken Heaton
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:42 AM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon


Our 37 XL has a check valve and a vented loop (belt and suspender approach) in 
the electric bilge pump discharge hose, like this:
http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-vented-loop-thru-hull.shtml
  This loop is in the lazarette, above the
thruhull in the stern.


Our manual pump does not have a vented loop but does have a one way valve in 
the strum box.  The boat came with a one way valve in
the strainer but when it started leaking we replaced it with a Whale #SB5865 
Top Entry Strainer, this type:
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10036|10159&product=17181806&code=766478586506


For the manual bilge pump to back siphon it would mean both the strainer valve 
and both the one way valves in the pump would have
to be leaking so perhaps it is time to service the manual pump or at least 
clean the hair, etc. out of the valves?


Ken H.



On 13 August 2013 00:03, Colin Kilgour  wrote:

  The only problem with a check valve is that it reduces the flow rate.

  If you plan to use a check valve - as many of us, including me, do -
  just adjust your pump size accordingly.

  Same goes for how big a column of water you're pushing (ie: hose diameter)

  Same goes for how high you're pushing that column. (ie: the higher the
  loop, the higher the column - And btw, you definitely DO want a loop)

  Same goes for the gauge of wire and length of wiring run to your pump.
  (Lower voltage = less flow)

  All of these impact flow rate. So your 2000GPH pump is actually
  pumping a lot less than that Again, not a huge problem - as long
  as you factor all these things into your de-watering strategy.

  Nigel Calder does a really good analysis of these factors in his
  mechanical and electrical book.

  Cheers
  Colin

  Btw - on Bojangles, the bilge pumps discharge well below waterline.
  I'm not super happy about that, but that's the way the boat was made
  and it'd be a major plumbing project to make it work a different way.
   Touch wood - this has always worked well for me.




  On 8/12/13, Josh Muckley  wrote:
  > I must be messing up cause I have a check valve.  Without it, all the water
  > that is pushed into the hose above the pump drains right back into the sump
  > once the pump turns off.  With an auto sensing pump it would pump all the
  > time.
  >
  > I did up size the discharge hose and check valve so that they would he
  > harder to clog.
  >
  > Josh
  >
  > --
  > When privacy matters.
  > http://www.secure-my-email.com
  > On Aug 12, 2013 9:15 PM, "Steven Winks"  wrote:
  >

  >> **

  >> Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at
  >> anchor. I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off.
  >> The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and
  >> it
  >> filled up again once the switch was selected to off. I had the same
  >> result
  >> with the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the
  >> bilge and then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry,
  >> so
  >> the water must have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The
  >> discharge on this boat lies only a few inches above the waterline, but
  >> with
  >> any weight aft, it is below the water. Has anyone else experienced this?
  >> I
  >> understand check valves are not recommended. Thanks for any advice.
  >>
  >> ___
  >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
  >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
  >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  >>
  >>
  >


  --
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Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

[Ken Heaton]

A former owner repowered our 1990 C&C 37 XL (39' 6" LOA), installing
a Yanmar Model:  3JH2-TBE (47 hp,. turbo) back in 2001.  It turns a “J”
Prop feathering 18” - 3 blade propellor.

It does not seem at all like overkill to me.  We burn about 2.4 litres an
hour ( 0.7 US Gal.) at 6.5 knots under power.

Ken H.


On 13 August 2013 10:39, Bill Coleman  wrote:

>  I think he means 2800 under power, but that is not clear.
>
> My opinion, worth what it cost, that boat is grossly underpowered. I am
> now at 37.5 hp, after replacing a 40 hp Perkins 107.
>
> I think a C&C 41 should be 40 – 45 hp minimum.
>
> ** **
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 [image: animated_favicon1]
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:26 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine
>
>  ** **
>
> Tony,
>
> ** **
>
> Does it rev to 3600 in neutral?  If not, could be a bad tach.
>
> ** **
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Tony Wroblewski 
> wrote:
>
> I also have a  C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to
> repower.  Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP.  My
> problem however is it doesn't want to develop more than 2800 RPM.  Have a
> Martec 17x10 folding prop.  Any suggestions.  I have owned the boat since
> new and it's always been that way.  What props do others have on their 41s
> 
>  --
>
> Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:21:47 -0400
> From: rsh...@optonline.net
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine
>
> Paul,
>
> I have a 1984 C&C 41. No, I have not done an engine swap but I would be
> real interested in the details
>
> of the project. Seems that getting the old engine out would be the main
> concern. Relocating 
>
> engine mounts should not be a problem. Of course putting the new engine in
> would be interesting.
>
> I am not contemplating an engine swap but I have played "what if" and
> thought that cutting the cockpit
>
> floor out and lifting the engine straight up would solve engine removal
> issues. With the  engine out you would have unrestricted access for
> fiberglassing, painting, soundproofing and anything else you want to do
> down there.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Ray Shibe
>
> Stinky Dog.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 04, 2013 at 07:17 PM, Paul Parsons wrote:
>
> I would like to ask the membership if any C&C 41 owners have done
> an re-engine to the Yanmar 3JH5(39hp), removing a 3HMF(27 hp), has this
> been done before.
>
>  
>
> Thank you.
>
> ** **
>
> Paul
>
> ** **
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>  --
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___ This List is provided by
> the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> 
>
> ** **
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
<>___
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

[Ken Heaton]

Our 37 XL has a check valve and a vented loop (belt and suspender approach)
in the electric bilge pump discharge hose, like this:
http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-vented-loop-thru-hull.shtml
This loop is in the lazarette, above the thruhull in the stern.

Our manual pump does not have a vented loop but does have a one way valve
in the strum box.  The boat came with a one way valve in the strainer but
when it started leaking we replaced it with a Whale #SB5865 Top Entry
Strainer, this type:
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10036|10159&product=17181806&code=766478586506

For the manual bilge pump to back siphon it would mean both the strainer
valve and both the one way valves in the pump would have to be leaking so
perhaps it is time to service the manual pump or at least clean the hair,
etc. out of the valves?

Ken H.


On 13 August 2013 00:03, Colin Kilgour  wrote:

> The only problem with a check valve is that it reduces the flow rate.
>
> If you plan to use a check valve - as many of us, including me, do -
> just adjust your pump size accordingly.
>
> Same goes for how big a column of water you're pushing (ie: hose diameter)
>
> Same goes for how high you're pushing that column. (ie: the higher the
> loop, the higher the column - And btw, you definitely DO want a loop)
>
> Same goes for the gauge of wire and length of wiring run to your pump.
> (Lower voltage = less flow)
>
> All of these impact flow rate. So your 2000GPH pump is actually
> pumping a lot less than that Again, not a huge problem - as long
> as you factor all these things into your de-watering strategy.
>
> Nigel Calder does a really good analysis of these factors in his
> mechanical and electrical book.
>
> Cheers
> Colin
>
> Btw - on Bojangles, the bilge pumps discharge well below waterline.
> I'm not super happy about that, but that's the way the boat was made
> and it'd be a major plumbing project to make it work a different way.
>  Touch wood - this has always worked well for me.
>
>
>
> On 8/12/13, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> > I must be messing up cause I have a check valve.  Without it, all the
> water
> > that is pushed into the hose above the pump drains right back into the
> sump
> > once the pump turns off.  With an auto sensing pump it would pump all the
> > time.
> >
> > I did up size the discharge hose and check valve so that they would he
> > harder to clog.
> >
> > Josh
> >
> > --
> > When privacy matters.
> > http://www.secure-my-email.com
> > On Aug 12, 2013 9:15 PM, "Steven Winks"  wrote:
> >
> >> **
> >> Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at
> >> anchor. I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and
> off.
> >> The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and
> >> it
> >> filled up again once the switch was selected to off. I had the same
> >> result
> >> with the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the
> >> bilge and then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry,
> >> so
> >> the water must have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The
> >> discharge on this boat lies only a few inches above the waterline, but
> >> with
> >> any weight aft, it is below the water. Has anyone else experienced this?
> >> I
> >> understand check valves are not recommended. Thanks for any advice.
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >>
> >>
> >
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
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Stus-List Propeller size for 35-2

[Alex Giannelia]

WHAT size of props do the listers have who sail the 35MkII? AND what sort of 
engines are they matched to and what is the shaft diameter and the unsupported 
length aft of the strut??

I am starting to install the electric and have had numerous discussions with 
the supplier concerning proper pitch and diameter.   So I wanted to know what 
the listers are using.

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

[Della Barba, Joe]

I had a bilge pump teed into the sink drain. The T was actually below water 
level and it loopep up just above water level. Well...after a new engine 
install and some new wires and hoses, it got pushed to just BELOW water level. 
We woke up in Rock Hall about knee deep in water! After pumping the boat out, 
we were like WTF??? where did this come from?? We listend very carefully and I 
heard water running back into the bilge through the pump. That pump now 
dishcharges out of a hull fitting up at rail level ;)
Note the T setup caused no issues for at least a decade or so prior to this. 


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kim Brown
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 7:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

Steven,
Had a similar problem with my Irwin 31 - there the bilge pump discharge was 
tee'd into the sink drain.  All is good unless you had a stopper in the sink 
then there is no break in the line and a back siphon could set up. Then the 
pump (hopefully) kicks in and pumps it out and then it back siphons again ad 
infinitum. Took some panic time to figure this out when I came back to the boat 
after a night on Duval St. Admittedly my thinking was impaired
With the stopper out the siphon couldn't set up. Solution was to stop doing 
dishes.  While high loops are good. you need something to break the siphon 
- discharge above the waterline does it; check valve will do it but I would 
look at a siphon break like they use for heads to be inserted at the top of a 
high loop- less worry about impeding any discharge. And good practice is to 
'cross' hoses. If it runs along port, loop up in the stern and discharge it to 
starboard and vice versa that way if you actually are doing something like 
sailing one side or the other will be high. 

Kim Brown
Trust ME!!! 35-3 

 Original message 
From: Steven Winks 
Date: 08/12/2013  9:15 PM  (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon 
 
Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at anchor. 
I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off.
The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and it 
filled up again once the switch was selected?to off. I had the same result with 
the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the bilge and 
then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry, so the water must 
have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The discharge on this boat lies 
only a few inches above the waterline, but with any weight aft, it is below the 
water. Has anyone else experienced this? I understand check valves are not 
recommended. Thanks for any advice.



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Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

[Bill Coleman]

I think he means 2800 under power, but that is not clear.

My opinion, worth what it cost, that boat is grossly underpowered. I am now
at 37.5 hp, after replacing a 40 hp Perkins 107.

I think a C&C 41 should be 40 - 45 hp minimum.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

 

Tony,

 

Does it rev to 3600 in neutral?  If not, could be a bad tach.

 

On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Tony Wroblewski 
wrote:

I also have a  C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to repower.
Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP.  My problem
however is it doesn't want to develop more than 2800 RPM.  Have a Martec
17x10 folding prop.  Any suggestions.  I have owned the boat since new and
it's always been that way.  What props do others have on their 41s

  _  

Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:21:47 -0400
From: rsh...@optonline.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

Paul,

I have a 1984 C&C 41. No, I have not done an engine swap but I would be real
interested in the details

of the project. Seems that getting the old engine out would be the main
concern. Relocating 

engine mounts should not be a problem. Of course putting the new engine in
would be interesting.

I am not contemplating an engine swap but I have played "what if" and
thought that cutting the cockpit

floor out and lifting the engine straight up would solve engine removal
issues. With the  engine out you would have unrestricted access for
fiberglassing, painting, soundproofing and anything else you want to do down
there.

Good luck,

Ray Shibe

Stinky Dog.



On Sun, Aug 04, 2013 at 07:17 PM, Paul Parsons wrote:

I would like to ask the membership if any C&C 41 owners have done an
re-engine to the Yanmar 3JH5(39hp), removing a 3HMF(27 hp), has this been
done before.

 

Thank you.

 

Paul

 


Sent from my iPad

  _  

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

[Della Barba, Joe]

It is quite hard on diesels to limit their RPM with a high pitch prop. If the 
tach is accurate, you might want to try a few inches less pitch.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

Tony,

Does it rev to 3600 in neutral?  If not, could be a bad tach.

On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Tony Wroblewski 
mailto:triump...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
I also have a  C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to repower.  
Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP.  My problem however 
is it doesn't want to develop more than 2800 RPM.  Have a Martec 17x10 folding 
prop.  Any suggestions.  I have owned the boat since new and it's always been 
that way.  What props do others have on their 41s

Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:21:47 -0400
From: rsh...@optonline.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine
Paul,
I have a 1984 C&C 41. No, I have not done an engine swap but I would be real 
interested in the details
of the project. Seems that getting the old engine out would be the main 
concern. Relocating
engine mounts should not be a problem. Of course putting the new engine in 
would be interesting.
I am not contemplating an engine swap but I have played "what if" and thought 
that cutting the cockpit
floor out and lifting the engine straight up would solve engine removal issues. 
With the  engine out you would have unrestricted access for fiberglassing, 
painting, soundproofing and anything else you want to do down there.
Good luck,
Ray Shibe
Stinky Dog.


On Sun, Aug 04, 2013 at 07:17 PM, Paul Parsons wrote:
I would like to ask the membership if any C&C 41 owners have done an re-engine 
to the Yanmar 3JH5(39hp), removing a 3HMF(27 hp), has this been done before.

Thank you.

Paul


Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

[Joel Aronson]

Tony,

Does it rev to 3600 in neutral?  If not, could be a bad tach.


On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Tony Wroblewski wrote:

>  I also have a  C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to
> repower.  Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP.  My
> problem however is it doesn't want to develop more than 2800 RPM.  Have a
> Martec 17x10 folding prop.  Any suggestions.  I have owned the boat since
> new and it's always been that way.  What props do others have on their 41s
>
> --
> Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:21:47 -0400
> From: rsh...@optonline.net
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine
>
> Paul,
> I have a 1984 C&C 41. No, I have not done an engine swap but I would be
> real interested in the details
> of the project. Seems that getting the old engine out would be the main
> concern. Relocating
> engine mounts should not be a problem. Of course putting the new engine in
> would be interesting.
> I am not contemplating an engine swap but I have played "what if" and
> thought that cutting the cockpit
> floor out and lifting the engine straight up would solve engine removal
> issues. With the  engine out you would have unrestricted access for
> fiberglassing, painting, soundproofing and anything else you want to do
> down there.
> Good luck,
> Ray Shibe
> Stinky Dog.
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 04, 2013 at 07:17 PM, Paul Parsons wrote:
>
> I would like to ask the membership if any C&C 41 owners have done an re-engine
> to the Yanmar 3JH5(39hp), removing a 3HMF(27 hp), has this been done before.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Paul
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> --
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>
>
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> the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List transmissions in gearwhile sailing

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

Jake,

I have too many PFDs and fenders in my sail locker to get past. Hence
the engine panel access.  

The key is to have *something* on the shaft that sticks down from the
transmission. Normally the back of the tranny blocks all view of the
shaft. But zinc sticks out, and is a good surface to mark on.

I had a folding prop at one time, but the pins were badly worn and
already at their 3rd over-bore. So back to the solid.
When other more important boat jobs get done, we'll go back to the
folding prop. 

-Keith


-Original Message-
From: Jake Brodersen [mailto:captain_j...@cox.net] 
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 7:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: [SPAM]Re: [SPAM]Re: transmissions in
gearwhile sailing

Keith,

That is a very interesting way to approach this task.  I find that a
quick look into the locker is quicker.  Getting down below past the main
trimmer and removing the steps can sometimes take a bit of time.  I
don't think I can see the shaft from the front of the engine.  I have a
zinc on my shaft,
just forward of the strut.   I'll never lose the shaft.  I have to pull
the
rudder to get it out anyway...

Ditch the solid prop.  Even when cruising, it's like dragging a bucket
along behind you.  I went to a folder many years ago and have never
regretted it.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
   





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 3:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: [SPAM]Re: transmissions in gear
whilesailing

Jake, 

Rather than crawling in to the sail locker, another option is to remove
the steps/engine cover.

I have a shaft zinc on the inside of the hull, presumably so the shaft
cannot get ejected out the bottom.

But the side benefit is that a large sharpie mark on that zinc is
visible from the *front* of the engine. So, I remove the cover, put it
in reverse gear, lift all the decomp. levers, and turn the engine over
by hand until I see the mark is lined up in the DOWN position. 
Then reset the decomp levers and replace the cover. I have a solid prop,
so I have to leave it in gear to keep it from freewheeling and driving
me crazy with that sound.

-Keith





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Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

[Tony Wroblewski]

I also have a  C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to repower.  
Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP.  My problem however 
is it doesn't want to develop more than 2800 RPM.  Have a Martec 17x10 folding 
prop.  Any suggestions.  I have owned the boat since new and it's always been 
that way.  What props do others have on their 41s

Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:21:47 -0400
From: rsh...@optonline.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine

Paul,I have a 1984 C&C 41. No, I have not done an engine swap but I would be 
real interested in the detailsof the project. Seems that getting the old engine 
out would be the main concern. Relocating engine mounts should not be a 
problem. Of course putting the new engine in would be interesting.I am not 
contemplating an engine swap but I have played "what if" and thought that 
cutting the cockpitfloor out and lifting the engine straight up would solve 
engine removal issues. With the  engine out you would have unrestricted access 
for fiberglassing, painting, soundproofing and anything else you want to do 
down there.Good luck,Ray ShibeStinky Dog.

On Sun, Aug 04, 2013 at 07:17 PM, Paul Parsons wrote:

I would like to ask the membership if any C&C 41 owners have done an re-engine 
to the Yanmar 3JH5(39hp), removing a 3HMF(27 hp), has this been done before. 
Thank you.Paul

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Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

[Kim Brown]

Steven,
Had a similar problem with my Irwin 31 - there the bilge pump discharge was
tee'd into the sink drain.  All is good unless you had a stopper in the sink
then there is no break in the line and a back siphon could set up. Then the
pump (hopefully) kicks in and pumps it out and then it back siphons again ad
infinitum. Took some panic time to figure this out when I came back to the
boat after a night on Duval St. Admittedly my thinking was impaired
With the stopper out the siphon couldn't set up. Solution was to stop doing
dishes.  While high loops are good. you need something to break the
siphon - discharge above the waterline does it; check valve will do it but I
would look at a siphon break like they use for heads to be inserted at the
top of a high loop- less worry about impeding any discharge. And good
practice is to 'cross' hoses. If it runs along port, loop up in the stern
and discharge it to starboard and vice versa that way if you actually are
doing something like sailing one side or the other will be high. 

Kim Brown
Trust ME!!! 35-3 

 Original message 
From: Steven Winks  
Date: 08/12/2013  9:15 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon 
 
Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at
anchor. I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off.
The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and it
filled up again once the switch was selected?to off. I had the same result
with the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the
bilge and then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry, so
the water must have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The discharge
on this boat lies only a few inches above the waterline, but with any weight
aft, it is below the water. Has anyone else experienced this? I understand
check valves are not recommended. Thanks for any advice.



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Stus-List Anti-donut Reversing Ideas

[Peter Fell]

OK it looks like I'm good to go (knock on wood) 

On my '79 C&C 27 MkIII the Atomic 4 is rebuilt and converted to fresh water 
cooling  the heat exchanger that failed and raw water pump that 
self-destructed on the maiden voyage from the mech's dock to my slip have 
been replaced  (& a high-temp and low oil-pressure alarm are installed 
now!!) Got some wiring clean-up to do.


Question is, in preparation for a haul-out later this fall / winter, I'm 
looking at replacing the original 11x7 2-blade prop with something that 
hopefully 1) has no more drag under sail and 2) minimizes the paddlewheel 
effect when going astern.   What's suggested? What are people using that 
does or doesn't work? Moyer's FAQ's suggest the Indigo, the CDI PerfectPitch 
or the Michigan Wheel 10x6 3-blade (but that was written 10 years ago).


Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII
... soon to be renamed 



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