Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
Curtis, A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well. Make sure that the charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float). A cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage your batteries. Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and will eventually boil the batteries dry. A good charger is well worth the price. Jake From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? CW, I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69 here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will be headed south of Course Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of replacing the old one. I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and ready for cruising. Thanx for the advise guys. Cheers ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. On 12/17/13, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: Curtis, A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well. Make sure that the charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float). A cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage your batteries. Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and will eventually boil the batteries dry. A good charger is well worth the price. Jake From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? CW, I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69 here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will be headed south of Course Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of replacing the old one. I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and ready for cruising. Thanx for the advise guys. Cheers -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
Curtis, where did you buy the charger unit? approximate cost? Thanks Richard 1985 37; on the hard; an waitin' for launch Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tue, Dec 17, 2013 9:47 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 his is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery ender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a attery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging ffects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness 1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave he charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the ehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when onnected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. n 12/17/13, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: Curtis, A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well. Make sure that the charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float). A cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage your batteries. Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and will eventually boil the batteries dry. A good charger is well worth the price. Jake From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? CW, I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69 here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will be headed south of Course Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of replacing the old one. I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and ready for cruising. Thanx for the advise guys. Cheers - Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, hould really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ his List is provided by the CC Photo Album ttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com nc-l...@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery. Bill Bina On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
Related to this discussion, I came across this video from UK sailmakers that shows some of the effects of halyard tension on sail shape. I wish they had played with outhaul, cunningham and vang at the same time, but it was still useful to see. I wish my main had a shape like that! Davehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRJIgIH_SXwfeature=youtu.be David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128 Sorry I posted the wrong model. Wal-mart $66.48 On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery. Bill Bina On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
Dave, Thanks for sharing that! I'm sure they would be happy to make a new main for you. Given all the turmoil at UK, with Ulmer being bought out and a new loft in Annapolis I might look to another loft. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:14 AM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.comwrote: Related to this discussion, I came across this video from UK sailmakers that shows some of the effects of halyard tension on sail shape. I wish they had played with outhaul, cunningham and vang at the same time, but it was still useful to see. I wish my main had a shape like that! Dave http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRJIgIH_SXwfeature=youtu.be David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 pastedGraphic.tiff___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
Curtis: That battery charge will not do much at all for you. It's an 8 V unit And you need a 12 V charger. Rich On Dec 17, 2013, at 10:47 AM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. On 12/17/13, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: Curtis, A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well. Make sure that the charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float). A cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage your batteries. Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and will eventually boil the batteries dry. A good charger is well worth the price. Jake From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? CW, I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69 here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will be headed south of Course Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of replacing the old one. I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and ready for cruising. Thanx for the advise guys. Cheers -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
That's work as a maintainer over winter. Rich On Dec 17, 2013, at 11:29 AM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128 Sorry I posted the wrong model. Wal-mart $66.48 On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery. Bill Bina On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
Peter, It's not a serious issue. Many of us on the list have or have had the same condition. Most of us have solved it by first ensuring the keel bolts are properly torqued. The torque specs can be found on the CC photoalbum site at: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm To properly torque them, they must first be backed off then re-torqued. After that the chosen solutions diverge. I covered the hull/keel joint on my 35-1 by epoxying overlapping layers of 4 inch biaxial tape. It's been over 10 years now and the demarcation has not reappeared. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA From: Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 9:41 AM Subject: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this winter. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led keel buts up against the fibreglass hull - there is a clear crack all around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional cruising boats). Not sure where you mean by 'where the hull turns into the stub'. Thanks, Peter From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: December-17-13 11:40 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this winter. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
Evidently, we all misunderstood the question. The battery minder is advertised to provide a de-sufating pulse charge to prevent loss of capacity. This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose. Had any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically different answers. For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent over charging. If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning feature. 10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100. Stanley, Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, and boat stores. I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others. Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries. This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic corrosion. What type of charger did you already have? What was wrong with using it? Josh Muckley On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128 Sorry I posted the wrong model. Wal-mart $66.48 On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery. Bill Bina On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while sailing ever couple of weeks. For Now In 2018 We hope to shove off for some extended cruising. I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger. This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. Sorry for the confusion. On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote: Evidently, we all misunderstood the question. The battery minder is advertised to provide a de-sufating pulse charge to prevent loss of capacity. This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose. Had any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically different answers. For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent over charging. If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning feature. 10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100. Stanley, Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, and boat stores. I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others. Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries. This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic corrosion. What type of charger did you already have? What was wrong with using it? Josh Muckley On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128 Sorry I posted the wrong model. Wal-mart $66.48 On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.netwrote: Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery. Bill Bina On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
Tighten it up and fair it in sand and paint good for 6 to 7 years. Have fun. On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:15 PM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led keel buts up against the fibreglass hull – there is a clear crack all around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional cruising boats). Not sure where you mean by ‘where the hull turns into the stub’… Thanks, Peter *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Goodyear *Sent:* December-17-13 11:40 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this winter. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
There will be plenty of new units on the market by 2018. Rich On Dec 17, 2013, at 14:15, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while sailing ever couple of weeks. For Now In 2018 We hope to shove off for some extended cruising. I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger. This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. Sorry for the confusion. On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote: Evidently, we all misunderstood the question. The battery minder is advertised to provide a de-sufating pulse charge to prevent loss of capacity. This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose. Had any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically different answers. For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent over charging. If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning feature. 10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100. Stanley, Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, and boat stores. I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others. Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries. This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic corrosion. What type of charger did you already have? What was wrong with using it? Josh Muckley On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128 Sorry I posted the wrong model. Wal-mart $66.48 On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery. Bill Bina On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
Peter, Probably not a big deal. I suggest when boat is in the slings ready to launch you have a burly yard guy pull/push the bottom of keel while you watch the crack closely. If there is any give in it, that is you can see crack expand/contract, you need to do something before launch. If it is truly at the keel stub/lead keel junction, not deep, and no movement, fill if you want with something suitable, paint and launch. my opinion. Bill Walker Eveningstar CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi -Original Message- From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tue, Dec 17, 2013 1:28 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, Tim is trying to differentiate between the fiberglass and the lead. Most of our boats have a sked or partial style keel as opposed to a full keel. The top of the keel (stub) is formed as part of the fiberglass layup and extends below the belly of the boat about 12 inches. The lower part of the keel is usually made of lead and has bolts that extent up through this 12 inches of fiberglass stub to the interior of the boat where the nuts can be seen and torqued. The relative narrowness of our boat's keel and stub provide insufficient lateral support to the keel. Flexing can occur which often causes a crack at the joint to form. The keel is usually bedded with something like 3M 5200. This adds to the problem because the bedding compound flexes more than the faring compount or the various layers of paint. It sounds like Tim was concerned (rightly so) that you may have been describing a crack where the fiberglass stub merges with the belly of the fiberglass boat. If this is the case then you ABSOLUTELY need to root out the problem. If on the other hand it is at the fiberglass to lead joint then a little investigation may be in order. Often it is just a crack in the bottom paint. Many of the listers refer to this as the CC smile and have been living with it for years. The boat smiles at them an they smile back. ;-) Other's have performed extensive and repeated attempts to repair or prevent the crack. If no water is coming up through the bolts and the crack is very shallow then I would consider just a bottom painting. If there is any indication that water is making it deeper, possibly to the bolts, then some sort of repair is probably in order simply to prevent degradation of the lead and stainless steel bolts. As previously suggested, it never hurts to check the keel bolt torque. I believe the expected way to do this is while the boat is on the hard so that the keel is being pushed on by the weight of the boat. Let us know how things turn out. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Dec 17, 2013 12:23 PM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led keel buts up against the fibreglass hull – there is a clear crack all around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional cruising boats). Not sure where you mean by ‘where the hull turns into the stub’… Thanks, Peter From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: December-17-13 11:40 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this winter. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Jabsco Accumulator 1 litre
I've gone through the recharging procedure on our accumulator with no luck. Before I throw down for an $90 USD thought I would try here for last minute wisdom or extras out there for sale. I believe it is an older version of one of these: http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/jabsco-water-pressure-systems/pressure-system-accessories/30573--accumulator-tank.htm Kevin 30-2 Sent from my Tablet ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
I posted a picture with a line where I think the crack is. I certainly originates where the ‘smile’ is (though to me it looks more like a frown), continues on, and then drops lower about two-thirds along towards the back: http://www.virtualmechanics.com/lilgoldie/inote/hull.html Thanks, Peter From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. Sent: December-17-13 3:56 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull How's this? \ \ _ Crack here. Bad! \ \ ___ Crack here no biggie. Torque and tape | Dennis C. _ From: Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter: This may just confuse the topic more, but here goes: Our boats, in almost all cases, do not have the “lead butting up against the fiberglass hull” as such. You boat must have some sort of keel sump (bilge) that extends down below the “ Hull ”. It’s where water collects and where the keel boats are visible. That “sump” usually is about 12 “ deep on boats over 35 feet………. If your crack is truly right up under the hull and not down the keel shape about 12-14” or so, then you may have a very serious issue. In the worst case, that “stub” could fall off taking the keel with it. That result could be tragic. If, however, the crack you are describing is actually around the keel at a distance of 12-14” down the side of the keel from the belly of the hull, then the “Smile” repair topics on the CC site are more than sufficient to fix it. I, like Dennis, have had that joint sanded, covered with Glass and recoated with barrier coat and bottom paint and that was in 1998. There has been no subsequent issue. It sounds like a couple of sketches would help this confusion, but I’m not competent enough with graphics to do one, maybe someone on the list could help out here. Best, Ron C. Impromptu CC 38MKIIC ….’77 _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 12:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led keel buts up against the fibreglass hull – there is a clear crack all around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional cruising boats). Not sure where you mean by ‘where the hull turns into the stub’… Thanks, Peter From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: December-17-13 11:40 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this winter. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
Peter, Tim is trying to differentiate between the fiberglass and the lead. Most of our boats have a sked or partial style keel as opposed to a full keel. The top of the keel (stub) is formed as part of the fiberglass layup and extends below the belly of the boat about 12 inches. The lower part of the keel is usually made of lead and has bolts that extent up through this 12 inches of fiberglass stub to the interior of the boat where the nuts can be seen and torqued. The relative narrowness of our boat's keel and stub provide insufficient lateral support to the keel. Flexing can occur which often causes a crack at the joint to form. The keel is usually bedded with something like 3M 5200. This adds to the problem because the bedding compound flexes more than the faring compount or the various layers of paint. It sounds like Tim was concerned (rightly so) that you may have been describing a crack where the fiberglass stub merges with the belly of the fiberglass boat. If this is the case then you ABSOLUTELY need to root out the problem. If on the other hand it is at the fiberglass to lead joint then a little investigation may be in order. Often it is just a crack in the bottom paint. Many of the listers refer to this as the CC smile and have been living with it for years. The boat smiles at them an they smile back. ;-) Other's have performed extensive and repeated attempts to repair or prevent the crack. If no water is coming up through the bolts and the crack is very shallow then I would consider just a bottom painting. If there is any indication that water is making it deeper, possibly to the bolts, then some sort of repair is probably in order simply to prevent degradation of the lead and stainless steel bolts. As previously suggested, it never hurts to check the keel bolt torque. I believe the expected way to do this is while the boat is on the hard so that the keel is being pushed on by the weight of the boat. Let us know how things turn out. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Dec 17, 2013 12:23 PM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led keel buts up against the fibreglass hull – there is a clear crack all around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional cruising boats). Not sure where you mean by ‘where the hull turns into the stub’… Thanks, Peter *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Goodyear *Sent:* December-17-13 11:40 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this winter. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
How's this? \ \ _ Crack here. Bad! \ \ ___ Crack here no biggie. Torque and tape | Dennis C. From: Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter: This may just confuse the topic more, but here goes: Our boats, in almost all cases, do not have the “lead butting up against the fiberglass hull” as such. You boat must have some sort of keel sump (bilge) that extends down below the “ Hull ”. It’s where water collects and where the keel boats are visible. That “sump” usually is about 12 “ deep on boats over 35 feet………. If your crack is truly right up under the hull and not down the keel shape about 12-14” or so, then you may have a very serious issue. In the worst case, that “stub” could fall off taking the keel with it. That result could be tragic. If, however, the crack you are describing is actually around the keel at a distance of 12-14” down the side of the keel from the belly of the hull, then the “Smile” repair topics on the CC site are more than sufficient to fix it. I, like Dennis, have had that joint sanded, covered with Glass and recoated with barrier coat and bottom paint and that was in 1998. There has been no subsequent issue. It sounds like a couple of sketches would help this confusion, but I’m not competent enough with graphics to do one, maybe someone on the list could help out here. Best, Ron C. Impromptu CC 38MKIIC ….’77 From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 12:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led keel buts up against the fibreglass hull – there is a clear crack all around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional cruising boats). Not sure where you mean by ‘where the hull turns into the stub’… Thanks, Peter From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: December-17-13 11:40 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this winter. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
Peter: This may just confuse the topic more, but here goes: Our boats, in almost all cases, do not have the lead butting up against the fiberglass hull as such. You boat must have some sort of keel sump (bilge) that extends down below the Hull. It's where water collects and where the keel boats are visible. That sump usually is about 12 deep on boats over 35 feet If your crack is truly right up under the hull and not down the keel shape about 12-14 or so, then you may have a very serious issue. In the worst case, that stub could fall off taking the keel with it. That result could be tragic. If, however, the crack you are describing is actually around the keel at a distance of 12-14 down the side of the keel from the belly of the hull, then the Smile repair topics on the CC site are more than sufficient to fix it. I, like Dennis, have had that joint sanded, covered with Glass and recoated with barrier coat and bottom paint and that was in 1998. There has been no subsequent issue. It sounds like a couple of sketches would help this confusion, but I'm not competent enough with graphics to do one, maybe someone on the list could help out here. Best, Ron C. Impromptu CC 38MKIIC ..'77 _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 12:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led keel buts up against the fibreglass hull - there is a clear crack all around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional cruising boats). Not sure where you mean by 'where the hull turns into the stub'. Thanks, Peter From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: December-17-13 11:40 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this winter. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
Just trying to get all the systems up and working with bugs shook out be for then. I also would like to spend the money while I have it. On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 2:37 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: agree -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina Sent: December 17, 2013 11:00 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery. Bill Bina On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6428 - Release Date: 12/17/13 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
agree -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina Sent: December 17, 2013 11:00 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery. Bill Bina On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when connected long term. I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6428 - Release Date: 12/17/13 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Jabsco Accumulator 1 litre
Kevin, Did you bleed it completely down then pump it back up to some psi reading? Dennis C. From: Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Subject: Stus-List Jabsco Accumulator 1 litre I've gone through the recharging procedure on our accumulator with no luck. Before I throw down for an $90 USD thought I would try here for last minute wisdom or extras out there for sale. I believe it is an older version of one of these: http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/jabsco-water-pressure-systems/pressure-system-accessories/30573--accumulator-tank.htm Kevin 30-2 Sent from my Tablet ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
That is pretty close, but it angles down half way back, drops down about 6”. Not much of a stub, and very little stub in the forward half, except in the front, where it angles down about 30 degrees which you show with your line. If it isn’t leaking I would just tighten the shit out of the bolts, scrape the crack, and put some 5200 on that. Not necessarily in that order. Only problem is it is really hard to sand 5200. Mine leaks a little forward when sailing, and this fall when I pulled the mast the bolt under the step was quite loose. Will see what the spring brings now. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 4:32 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull I posted a picture with a line where I think the crack is. I certainly originates where the ‘smile’ is (though to me it looks more like a frown), continues on, and then drops lower about two-thirds along towards the back: http://www.virtualmechanics.com/lilgoldie/inote/hull.html Thanks, Peter From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. Sent: December-17-13 3:56 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull How's this? \ \ _ Crack here. Bad! \ \ ___ Crack here no biggie. Torque and tape | Dennis C. _ From: Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter: This may just confuse the topic more, but here goes: Our boats, in almost all cases, do not have the “lead butting up against the fiberglass hull” as such. You boat must have some sort of keel sump (bilge) that extends down below the “ Hull ”. It’s where water collects and where the keel boats are visible. That “sump” usually is about 12 “ deep on boats over 35 feet………. If your crack is truly right up under the hull and not down the keel shape about 12-14” or so, then you may have a very serious issue. In the worst case, that “stub” could fall off taking the keel with it. That result could be tragic. If, however, the crack you are describing is actually around the keel at a distance of 12-14” down the side of the keel from the belly of the hull, then the “Smile” repair topics on the CC site are more than sufficient to fix it. I, like Dennis, have had that joint sanded, covered with Glass and recoated with barrier coat and bottom paint and that was in 1998. There has been no subsequent issue. It sounds like a couple of sketches would help this confusion, but I’m not competent enough with graphics to do one, maybe someone on the list could help out here. Best, Ron C. Impromptu CC 38MKIIC ….’77 _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 12:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led keel buts up against the fibreglass hull – there is a clear crack all around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional cruising boats). Not sure where you mean by ‘where the hull turns into the stub’… Thanks, Peter From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: December-17-13 11:40 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this winter. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote: I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
You should get rid of the boat, it's no good anymore. I can take it off your hands :) In all seriousness, Outrider is a beautiful boat and she is what turned me onto the CC 39 when you gave that talk at TSCC. Sounds to me like the smile like everyone's saying. Hopefully that's all it is and you're back out there soon. Here's the topic covered in detail on cc photoalbum: Hmm... turns out it's not much of an article and there's not much detail: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm Keel bolt torque specs might be handy as well: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm You'll be able to find lots of info about the CC smile if you search sailnet or any of the boards. Good luck. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 5:13 PM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote: That is pretty close, but it angles down half way back, drops down about 6”. Not much of a stub, and very little stub in the forward half, except in the front, where it angles down about 30 degrees which you show with your line. If it isn’t leaking I would just tighten the shit out of the bolts, scrape the crack, and put some 5200 on that. Not necessarily in that order. Only problem is it is really hard to sand 5200. Mine leaks a little forward when sailing, and this fall when I pulled the mast the bolt under the step was quite loose. Will see what the spring brings now. Bill Coleman CC 39 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of * Peter *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 4:32 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull I posted a picture with a line where I think the crack is. I certainly originates where the ‘smile’ is (though to me it looks more like a frown), continues on, and then drops lower about two-thirds along towards the back: http://www.virtualmechanics.com/lilgoldie/inote/hull.html Thanks, Peter *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. *Sent:* December-17-13 3:56 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull How's this? \ \ _ Crack here. Bad! \ \ ___ Crack here no biggie. Torque and tape | Dennis C. -- *From:* Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter: This may just confuse the topic more, but here goes: Our boats, in almost all cases, do not have the “lead butting up against the fiberglass hull” as such. You boat must have some sort of keel sump (bilge) that extends down below the “ Hull ”. It’s where water collects and where the keel boats are visible. That “sump” usually is about 12 “ deep on boats over 35 feet………. If your crack is truly right up under the hull and not down the keel shape about 12-14” or so, then you may have a very serious issue. In the worst case, that “stub” could fall off taking the keel with it. That result could be tragic. If, however, the crack you are describing is actually around the keel at a distance of 12-14” down the side of the keel from the belly of the hull, then the “Smile” repair topics on the CC site are more than sufficient to fix it. I, like Dennis, have had that joint sanded, covered with Glass and recoated with barrier coat and bottom paint and that was in 1998. There has been no subsequent issue. It sounds like a couple of sketches would help this confusion, but I’m not competent enough with graphics to do one, maybe someone on the list could help out here. Best, Ron C. Impromptu CC 38MKIIC ….’77 -- *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Peter *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 12:15 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led keel buts up against the fibreglass hull – there is a clear crack all around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional cruising boats). Not sure where you mean by ‘where the hull turns into the stub’… Thanks, Peter *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Goodyear *Sent:* December-17-13 11:40 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or where the hull turns into the stub? I have been fighting the latter for a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former. It looks like we'll need more surgery this
Re: Stus-List Refrigeration for a CC 30-2
You should check out Don Casey's write up about refrigeration in This Old Boat. As someone already mentioned, it's really all about insulation. He breaks it down by numbers and a well insulated ice box is better than a poorly insulated fridge. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 6:09 PM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.netwrote: Nice one Josh! :- )That solution might keep your lunch pail cool, but will hardly do the job of cooling some significant beer supplies. You obviously get what you pay for. Jake *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley *Sent:* Monday, December 16, 2013 3:37 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Refrigeration for a CC 30-2 Here's a possible cheap solution for you to retro your ice box. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.viewid=161108935300 On Dec 16, 2013 2:34 PM, allen allenmi...@earthlink.net wrote: I am going to have to get down on my hands and knees and really spec out the space I have for these solutions. 30-2's have a L shaped galley to port with center line sinks and an outboard icebox. Just forward of this unit is a u shaped salon so there is some space alongside the sink and behind the salon cushions. Closer to the centerline there is space under the seat cushion. All this space is centered for and aft and low in the boat so handling shouldn't be negatively effected. I wouldn't mind mounting something on the outboard wall of the icebox, we have a slight list to starboard because the way the water tanks and gear are mounted. The stand alone units look good, but floor space is at a premium unless I can fit them under the salon table in the center seat area. I'll make a cardboard footprint template and see how that works. Aft of the ice box there's the stove and then a bulkhead with folding door to the aft cabin so there's no quarter berth to place a stand alone unit there. Rob really designed a compact, feature filled interior, but there's a dearth of unfettered cabin sole. Most 30-2s I've seen had built in units using the ice box, but those were built in the late 80's and the technology has come so far Thanks for all the input. I'll let you know what I find. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
Even if the sail itself doesn't stretch, adjusting the luff tension alters the performance of the sail, desirable in changing wind velocities and different sea conditions. There should be a YouTube video to demonstrate...I'll take a look. Do you have an expert sail guy in your area; in the business, for example making sails ? That would be another resource for you. Best Regards, NJB CnC41, Halifax. On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 10:06 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote: I've got the book, one of many, and I understand and am an obsessive sail trimer. What I don't understand, yet, is what pulling the halyard on a sail that doesn't stretch do? sam :-) *From: *niall buckley *Sent: *Tuesday, December 3, 2013 5:59 PM *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Reply To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck Sam, If you are really interested in this,(and you should be, if you want to get the most pleasure from sailing your vessel), find a copy of sail power. Halyard tension, backstay,lead position,boom downhaul etc are the gears that accelerate your boat. I'm writing on Wellness and Anti Aging now, so find the Book. On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 8:05 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote: If the shape is factory engineered, and they don't stretch, what is adjusting halyard tension going to do? Tensioning the halyards on the old sails stretched the Dacron on the bias and moved the draft forward. It can't do that on the kryptonite one! A bit more explaining please! sam :-) *From: *niall buckley *Sent: *Tuesday, December 3, 2013 4:31 PM *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Reply To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck The main difference is that the new sails dont stretch and their shape is factory engineered. You will still adjust mail and genoa halyard tension according to conditions. You will likely not ever require a Cunningham ever again. Have Fun. On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 9:28 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.comwrote: Meant to put this as an aside on Sam's thread. New main and #1 on Koobalibra CC115 this past summer. The difference between these and the 6 year old sails is like high tech winter tires to bald tires in a snow storm -- *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of * sam.c.sal...@gmail.com *Sent:* Tuesday, December 03, 2013 12:58 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Halyard Tension Reading the tread about halyards, and an earlier post about furlers reminded me to ask a question of you racers out there: - I don’t race - only because there’s no-one racing on our lake. Although I have done a couple of Swiftsures. But I like passing boats and hate it when boats pass me! My boat has been pretty well upgraded with all rope halyards; new adjustable genoa cars; self tailers; new traveller; barbour haulers; and new Dacron sails 5 seasons ago. I sail with a 135% genoa on a furler. While sailing I adjust the genoa halyard regularly to move draft in the sail as the wind changes. (I do the same with the main too!) Now the question: Late this season I bought a new high tech, Kevlar, carbon, kryptonite, 135% genoa. I’m assuming I don’t adjust halyard tension with this new sail as I don’t think the sail will distort like a Dacron sail. Similarly, when I buy a matching main, main halyard and Cunningham adjustment will become redundant. Am I correct with this assumption? If this is correct, are there any trimming adjustments with these new high tech sails that I should become familiar with? Do you trim these newer sails any different than the old Dacron sails? What new techniques do I need to absorb? Thanks, sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List testing engine mounts
Is there a good way to test the quality of the engine mounts while Cat's Paw is on the hard? Last summer, I noticed that when the engine was at full throttle (about 3000 rpm), water appeared in the bilge. Watching the dripless prop shaft seal while moving the throttle from mid-speed to full, I noticed water was spraying out between the carbon piece at the forward end of the bellows and the SS piece fixed to the shaft. It seemed to me that the forward end of the bellows was moving forward (have to trust my memory here), and so the seal leaked. Without analyzing this properly, I thought the bellows needed to be replaced, which is true, and I ordered a new dripless seal from PYI and am installing it. But after a mention on this list about worn out engine mounts, I realize that probably the prop shaft and engine were also moving forward because of the strong thrust of the prop. How else would the front of the bellows move forward? Is there a good way of testing the integrity of the engine mounts while the boat is on the hard? Obviously now is a good time to replace them if they are worn out. Is there a way of trying to push the engine forward to see if I can reproduce what I think I saw? Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List testing engine mounts
Mine were quite bad but I had no idea until I removed them. One of the reasons I used PYI mounts is that they are designed to prevent axial movement, even when worn. I would remove yours one at a time and compare their measurements to that of a new one. Height specifically. You can spot a bad one pretty quick. I'm looking to part with a new spare stock yanmar mount if you find yourself in need. Josh Muckley On Dec 17, 2013 6:15 PM, Eric Frank efran...@mac.com wrote: Is there a good way to test the quality of the engine mounts while Cat's Paw is on the hard? Last summer, I noticed that when the engine was at full throttle (about 3000 rpm), water appeared in the bilge. Watching the dripless prop shaft seal while moving the throttle from mid-speed to full, I noticed water was spraying out between the carbon piece at the forward end of the bellows and the SS piece fixed to the shaft. It seemed to me that the forward end of the bellows was moving forward (have to trust my memory here), and so the seal leaked. Without analyzing this properly, I thought the bellows needed to be replaced, which is true, and I ordered a new dripless seal from PYI and am installing it. But after a mention on this list about worn out engine mounts, I realize that probably the prop shaft and engine were also moving forward because of the strong thrust of the prop. How else would the front of the bellows move forward? Is there a good way of testing the integrity of the engine mounts while the boat is on the hard? Obviously now is a good time to replace them if they are worn out. Is there a way of trying to push the engine forward to see if I can reproduce what I think I saw? Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List testing engine mounts
Eric, There may be another explanation for the water spray. If the PSS shaft seal bellows are not compressed per the installation instructions it is possible for the seal to allow water intrusion. IIRC for Calypso's PSS shaft seal the compression is between 5 and 6. Failed or poor quality engine mounts will also contribute to the change in pressure between the carbon piece and SS rotator. Other than having a friend or boatyard worker push hard on the prop from the outside I am not aware of a standard engine mount test. Observation of the plastic/rubber parts and consideration of their age is what pushed me to change Calypso's. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric Frank Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 3:16 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List testing engine mounts Is there a good way to test the quality of the engine mounts while Cat's Paw is on the hard? Last summer, I noticed that when the engine was at full throttle (about 3000 rpm), water appeared in the bilge. Watching the dripless prop shaft seal while moving the throttle from mid-speed to full, I noticed water was spraying out between the carbon piece at the forward end of the bellows and the SS piece fixed to the shaft. It seemed to me that the forward end of the bellows was moving forward (have to trust my memory here), and so the seal leaked. Without analyzing this properly, I thought the bellows needed to be replaced, which is true, and I ordered a new dripless seal from PYI and am installing it. But after a mention on this list about worn out engine mounts, I realize that probably the prop shaft and engine were also moving forward because of the strong thrust of the prop. How else would the front of the bellows move forward? Is there a good way of testing the integrity of the engine mounts while the boat is on the hard? Obviously now is a good time to replace them if they are worn out. Is there a way of trying to push the engine forward to see if I can reproduce what I think I saw? Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List testing engine mounts
My sense is that if you have the original mounts it's likely time to replace them. A pry bar under the engine near any of the mounts will give you an idea if the rubber and metal have separated. Rich On Dec 17, 2013, at 19:15, Eric Frank efran...@mac.com wrote: Is there a good way to test the quality of the engine mounts while Cat's Paw is on the hard? Last summer, I noticed that when the engine was at full throttle (about 3000 rpm), water appeared in the bilge. Watching the dripless prop shaft seal while moving the throttle from mid-speed to full, I noticed water was spraying out between the carbon piece at the forward end of the bellows and the SS piece fixed to the shaft. It seemed to me that the forward end of the bellows was moving forward (have to trust my memory here), and so the seal leaked. Without analyzing this properly, I thought the bellows needed to be replaced, which is true, and I ordered a new dripless seal from PYI and am installing it. But after a mention on this list about worn out engine mounts, I realize that probably the prop shaft and engine were also moving forward because of the strong thrust of the prop. How else would the front of the bellows move forward? Is there a good way of testing the integrity of the engine mounts while the boat is on the hard? Obviously now is a good time to replace them if they are worn out. Is there a way of trying to push the engine forward to see if I can reproduce what I think I saw? Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
Bill, Do the early CC 39’s have an iron keel with a lead shoe like the early Bruckmann 43’s or are they solid lead? It has been 36 years since I help repair a 39 keel (hit a small island in BC attempting to get out of the current) and cannot recall the construction. That particular 1974 39 had the CC smile issue in 1977. We fixed it several times with the flexible filler then finally bit the bullet and added glass cloth and resin to the area. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 2:14 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull That is pretty close, but it angles down half way back, drops down about 6”. Not much of a stub, and very little stub in the forward half, except in the front, where it angles down about 30 degrees which you show with your line. If it isn’t leaking I would just tighten the shit out of the bolts, scrape the crack, and put some 5200 on that. Not necessarily in that order. Only problem is it is really hard to sand 5200. Mine leaks a little forward when sailing, and this fall when I pulled the mast the bolt under the step was quite loose. Will see what the spring brings now. Bill Coleman CC 39 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
It is all Lead. Bill Coleman CC 39 animated_favicon1 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin DeYoung Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 6:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull Bill, Do the early CC 39’s have an iron keel with a lead shoe like the early Bruckmann 43’s or are they solid lead? It has been 36 years since I help repair a 39 keel (hit a small island in BC attempting to get out of the current) and cannot recall the construction. That particular 1974 39 had the CC smile issue in 1977. We fixed it several times with the flexible filler then finally bit the bullet and added glass cloth and resin to the area. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 2:14 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull That is pretty close, but it angles down half way back, drops down about 6”. Not much of a stub, and very little stub in the forward half, except in the front, where it angles down about 30 degrees which you show with your line. If it isn’t leaking I would just tighten the shit out of the bolts, scrape the crack, and put some 5200 on that. Not necessarily in that order. Only problem is it is really hard to sand 5200. Mine leaks a little forward when sailing, and this fall when I pulled the mast the bolt under the step was quite loose. Will see what the spring brings now. Bill Coleman CC 39 image001.gif___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
I have a 3DL genny , love it and intend to replace my main with one once I have a few boat units to spend. I would think that dispute the inability of the string sail to change factory shape based on tensioning, I should still be able to flatten it out with the Cunningham once the wind comes up. If not I'll be replacing my main with a Dacron sail. I like having some gears to shift to as the wind increases prior to reefing. Brent Driedger 27-5 s/v Wild Rover Lake Winnipeg Sent from my iPhone On Dec 17, 2013, at 5:09 PM, niall buckley niall.j.buck...@gmail.com wrote: Even if the sail itself doesn't stretch, adjusting the luff tension alters the performance of the sail, desirable in changing wind velocities and different sea conditions. There should be a YouTube video to demonstrate...I'll take a look. Do you have an expert sail guy in your area; in the business, for example making sails ? That would be another resource for you. Best Regards, NJB CnC41, Halifax. On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 10:06 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote: I've got the book, one of many, and I understand and am an obsessive sail trimer. What I don't understand, yet, is what pulling the halyard on a sail that doesn't stretch do? sam :-) From: niall buckley Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 5:59 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck Sam, If you are really interested in this,(and you should be, if you want to get the most pleasure from sailing your vessel), find a copy of sail power. Halyard tension, backstay,lead position,boom downhaul etc are the gears that accelerate your boat. I'm writing on Wellness and Anti Aging now, so find the Book. On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 8:05 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote: If the shape is factory engineered, and they don't stretch, what is adjusting halyard tension going to do? Tensioning the halyards on the old sails stretched the Dacron on the bias and moved the draft forward. It can't do that on the kryptonite one! A bit more explaining please! sam :-) From: niall buckley Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 4:31 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck The main difference is that the new sails dont stretch and their shape is factory engineered. You will still adjust mail and genoa halyard tension according to conditions. You will likely not ever require a Cunningham ever again. Have Fun. On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 9:28 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote: Meant to put this as an aside on Sam's thread. New main and #1 on Koobalibra CC115 this past summer. The difference between these and the 6 year old sails is like high tech winter tires to bald tires in a snow storm From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 12:58 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Halyard Tension Reading the tread about halyards, and an earlier post about furlers reminded me to ask a question of you racers out there: - I don’t race - only because there’s no-one racing on our lake. Although I have done a couple of Swiftsures. But I like passing boats and hate it when boats pass me! My boat has been pretty well upgraded with all rope halyards; new adjustable genoa cars; self tailers; new traveller; barbour haulers; and new Dacron sails 5 seasons ago. I sail with a 135% genoa on a furler. While sailing I adjust the genoa halyard regularly to move draft in the sail as the wind changes. (I do the same with the main too!) Now the question: Late this season I bought a new high tech, Kevlar, carbon, kryptonite, 135% genoa. I’m assuming I don’t adjust halyard tension with this new sail as I don’t think the sail will distort like a Dacron sail. Similarly, when I buy a matching main, main halyard and Cunningham adjustment will become redundant. Am I correct with this assumption? If this is correct, are there any trimming adjustments with these new high tech sails that I should become familiar with? Do you trim these newer sails any different than the old Dacron sails? What new techniques do I need to absorb? Thanks, sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List old sails suck comments uk ulmer halsey sailmakers
if your former ukhalsey loft gave you good service...i would not be concerned about the new owners...i have dealt with charlie ulmer in nyc in past..uk in toronto ont ,uk in sidney bc,uk halsey sidney bc plusnew owners in past year in sidney loft...service still excellent...new owners in sidney are building a large new loft with docks to drop off pickup sails.will be able to design construct new sails all in house for vancouver island alsopacific northwest,anacortes wash.areas south to oregon big investment for themunderstand other ulmer lofts are doing the same.in na..their design capacity experience with advanced materials is excellent. not associated with ulmer in any way just very happy 30 plus year customer..ulmer network has been great ..cant say same for north or sobstedthere degree of service has varied from loft to loft have purchased sails for my cc 39..cc designed redline 41...cc 25 the ulmer lofts always got it right or corrected anything needed ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
Thanks David,I never tire of these tips. It just reenforces.UK is very cool. ChuckResolute1990 CC 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "David Knecht" davidakne...@gmail.comTo: "CnC CnC discussion list" cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:14:52 AMSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckRelated to this discussion, I came across this video from UK sailmakers that shows some of the effects of halyard tension on sail shape. I wish they had played with outhaul, cunningham and vang at the same time, but it was still useful to see. I wish my main had a shape like that! Davehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRJIgIH_SXwfeature=youtu.be David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT ___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List crack keel meets hull
not leaking ...then is only a question of faring with marine filler then sealing with good underwater sealer...my cc 39 developed this after running aground on intercoastal waterway.once fixed lasted for 10 yearsnot a lot of problems to happen on this year model of cc39...great boat.. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
Curtis; At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the horse. If your intent is extended cruising - particularly offshore cruising where you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries) every day - you will first need to think about the systems you have on board and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar? Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio or TV? Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a shocking amount of power out of your batteries. Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH capacity. That gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for 2 days between charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting battery as a second bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to power the head and the anchor windlass. The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I have an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a solar charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to install an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I'm hooked to shore power or running the engine. To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time - which is OK when I'm traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor. As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you will be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have installed for cruising. You said you had an OEM battery charger installed. Probably not really OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money on the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries, and worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while sailing ever couple of weeks. For Now In 2018 We hope to shove off for some extended cruising. I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger. This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. Sorry for the confusion. On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote: Evidently, we all misunderstood the question. The battery minder is advertised to provide a de-sufating pulse charge to prevent loss of capacity. This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose. Had any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically different answers. For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent over charging. If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning feature. 10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100. Stanley, Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, and boat stores. I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others. Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries. This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic corrosion. What type of charger did you already have? What was wrong with using it? Josh Muckley On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128 Sorry I posted the wrong model. Wal-mart $66.48 On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery. Bill Bina On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote: After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for
Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 Autopilot
I've been daydreaming about getting an autopilot for oXmas. Any opinions or experience with Raymarine's fairly new Evolution wheel autopilot? At most I'll be coastal cruising, perhaps one day to the Florida Keys (starting from North Florida). The EV-100 Wheel system looks appropriate for Ox. http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=6866 The new sensor core (EV-1) has obviated the need for a fluxgate compass but a rudder reference unit (not included) is still required. Any opinions or experience with rudder reference units and whether vendor interoperability could be an issue? I'm guessing they are just some sort potentiometer putting out a variable voltage. Link to control unit mini-specs: http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=7725collectionid=82col=7717 Thanks much in advance, Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 Autopilot
I found that having a rudder angle indicator is very useful, but OTOH installing the sensor on the quadrant of my 35 MKII was a real big PITA.so much so that I put off installing it for over 2 years and tried with very poor results to use my new wheel pilot. I have the Raymarine ST 4000 MKII plus wheel pilot and it has worked very well on my 35 MKII but only after I installed the rudder sensor. The ST 4000MKII plus would not hold a course with only the signal from the fluxgate compass, it was lost without that rudder sensor signal, whereas the older unit it replaced did not need a rudder sensor signal to hold a course. Not sure about the newer Raymarine wheel pilots. _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . Sent: December 17, 2013 9:14 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 Autopilot I've been daydreaming about getting an autopilot for oXmas. Any opinions or experience with Raymarine's fairly new Evolution wheel autopilot? At most I'll be coastal cruising, perhaps one day to the Florida Keys (starting from North Florida). The EV-100 Wheel system looks appropriate for Ox. http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=6866 The new sensor core (EV-1) has obviated the need for a fluxgate compass but a rudder reference unit (not included) is still required. Any opinions or experience with rudder reference units and whether vendor interoperability could be an issue? I'm guessing they are just some sort potentiometer putting out a variable voltage. Link to control unit mini-specs: http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=7725 http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=7725collectionid=82col=7717 collectionid=82col=7717 Thanks much in advance, Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6428 - Release Date: 12/17/13 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
Cunningham doesn't flatten the sail - moves the Max draft fore aft.Outhaul flattens lower part (1/3?) of the main ; Backstay tension flattens the upper (2/3?)sam :-) From: Brent DriedgerSent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 5:14 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckI have a 3DL genny , love it and intend to replace my main with one once I have a few boat units to spend. I would think that dispute the inability of the string sail to change factory shape based on tensioning, I should still be able to flatten it out with the Cunningham once the wind comes up. If not I'll be replacing my main with a Dacron sail. I like having some gears to shift to as the wind increases prior to reefing.Brent Driedger27-5s/v Wild RoverLake WinnipegSent from my iPhoneOn Dec 17, 2013, at 5:09 PM, niall buckley niall.j.buck...@gmail.com wrote:Even if the sail itself doesn't stretch, adjusting the luff tensionalters the performance of the sail, desirable in changing windvelocities and different sea conditions. There should be a YouTube video to demonstrate...I'll take a look. Do you have an expertsail guy in your area; in the business, for example making sails ?That would be another resource for you.Best Regards, NJB CnC41, Halifax.On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 10:06 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote: I've got the book, one of many, and I understand and am an obsessive sail trimer. What I don't understand, yet, is what pulling the halyard on a sail that doesn't stretch do? sam :-) From: niall buckleySent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 5:59 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck Sam,If you are really interested in this,(and you should be, if you want to get the most pleasure from sailing your vessel), find a copy of "sail power".Halyard tension, backstay,lead position,boom downhaul etc are the gears that accelerate your boat. I'm writing on Wellness and Anti Aging now, so find the Book.On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 8:05 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote: If the shape is factory engineered, and they don't stretch, what is adjusting halyard tension going to do? Tensioning the halyards on the old sails stretched the Dacron on the bias and moved the draft forward. It can't do that on the kryptonite one! A bit more explaining please! sam :-) From: niall buckleySent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 4:31 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck The main difference is that the new sails dont stretch and their shape is factory engineered.You will still adjust mail and genoa halyard tension according to conditions. You will likely not ever require a Cunningham ever again. Have Fun.On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 9:28 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote: Meant to put this as an aside on Sam's thread. New main and #1 on Koobalibra CC115 this past summer. The difference between these and the 6 year old sails is like high tech winter tires to bald tires in a snow storm From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 12:58 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Halyard Tension Reading the tread about halyards, and an earlier post about furlers reminded me to ask a question of you racers out there: - I don’t race - only because there’s no-one racing on our lake. Although I have done a couple of Swiftsures.
Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull
So you bought Outrider. Some of us on the list had a semi-serious discussion about buying her when she was still on Yachtworld and operating her like a time=share partnership. I still have copies of the sample partnership agreement and the bylaws from a group charter agreement to which I was once a party someplace on my computer. She looked like a nice boat, and a very good value. I bet Fred Street still thinks about how much nicer than Minnesota Mexico would be in the winter. What you have looks like the classic CC smile, as others have said. Most of us here on the list have had to deal with it at one time or another. The key thing you need to do is to properly torque the keel bolts to the specs you will find on the Photo Album. That will reduce the flexing of the hull-keel joint and you can go about covering up the old smile. Some of us just ignore the crack and go sailing - so long as there is no leak. On my 25, the crack is caulked with 5200 (smoothed out before it fully cured) and then repainted. No trace of the smile reappearing in about 10 years. On the 38, we caulked the crack and then put glass cloth and fairing over the area. No smile for the last 5 years or so. Good luck, and I'm sure you will enjoy the boat. Rick Brass Imzadi -1976 CC 38 mk1 la Belle Aurore -1975 CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:42 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try to spend a few months sailing during the winter. There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Kind Regards, Peter White SV Outrider ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Owners Manual CC 35 MKI
Earlier this year, a member on the list sent me the Owners Manual for the CC 35 MKI and somehow or another I lost it. If someone has the manual please contact me off the list. Thanx – Seasons’ Greetings Stu___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL
I don't always agree with the things I read in Practical Sailor, but I have to agree with them that these are about the best interior lights available for general illumination in your cabin. I've had a low power Alpenglow fluorescent fixture on my 25 for more than a decade. I like the quality of the illumination, the low power consumption, and the nice teak fixture. My experience was a large part of the decision to put two of the LED fixtures on my 38. All of the fixtures I purchased have high (9W for the fluorescent) and low (6 or 7W) power for white light, and a separate red light with 2 low power settings. I habitually leave the lowest power red lights on when sailing at night so I can find the beer or a snack and move around the cabin without bumping into things. Others on the list have other solutions for low power consumption lighting - and may well have paid less than I did. The LED fixtures were around $130 each. But I spent a half hour or less on the installation process and I don't need to worry about a source for spare parts if I ever need them. I'm quite happy with the lights. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 5:17 PM To: CNC CNC Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL Rick, Do you like the Alpenglows? David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) _ From: rickbr...@earthlink.net To: capt...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 14:43:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL Alex; I second Dennis' recommendation for MarineBeam.com. I have also used Superbrightleds.com as a source with good results for replacement for incandescent bulbs in the cabin. And as I've said before, I put Alpenglow LED fixtures in the cabin in place of the OEM fluorescent lights. The only problem I have had in the 3 or so years I've had LED bulbs on the boat has been with the PAR bulbs that are in the light fixtures containing my steaming and foredeck lights and my spreader lights. The heat sink on the LED replacement bulbs is slightly larger than the reflector on the halogen bulbs that came in the fixture, so the fit isn't quite right and I need to install the LED bulbs without the lens that came in the fixture. No failures so far, but I had to go up and reseat one of the spreader lights last spring before it would go on. Regarding nav lights, I'm not sure about Transport Canada requirements - you guys have some regs that seem frickin strange to me. But as far as the USCG compliance goes you should have no problems. The USCG requires that the manufacturer use nav lights that comply with USCG requirements when building the boat. Many light manufacturers will put something on their fixtures that say they comply with the requirements. But the USCG neither approves nor disapproves of any light, they only require that the lights used put out enough lumens to be seen over the range and arc specified in the ColRegs. The guy at Marinebeam was really helpful to me when I put LEDs in all my nav lights. I wanted 5 mile visibility (as for a vessel 65 ft or more), though the USCG requirement for my boat is only 2 miles. We talked about what fixtures I had (I recall that you really need to put green LEDs behind green lenses to meet the requirements because of the temperature/wavelength of the output of the LEDs) and was able to supply the requested bulbs for everything except those little red and green eyeball fixtures in the stem of the boat, and even there he was able to supply bulbs to meet the 2 mile requirement. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 1:14 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL Go cheap and buy lots of spares! Oryou could buy quality and do the job once. Do what you want but if I was buying replacement LED navigation lights, I'd buy from marinebeam.com. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA _ From: Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 11:43 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL Tons of cheap LEDs on FleaBay. Some are better than others, but for the $3-$5 or so per bulb I have got a pretty good hit rate. Note that RUNNING LIGHTS are a special case, depending on how legal you want to be. Joe Della Barba Coquina -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 12:27 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL I am now moving into replacing my incandescent bulbs all around with LED's so is there an economical set of conversion bulbs which use the bases that will fit the old 12VDC sockets? I read some cases require compliance with USCG or TRANSPORT CANADA codes. Alex Giannelia CC
Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
Provided you have a keel stepped mast and either a baby stay or forward lower shrouds to cause the mast to bend. On a boat like my 25, with a deck stepped mast and neither forward shrouds nor stay, all tightening the backstay accomplishes is tensioning the forestay and take the curve out of the luff of the genoa. Flattening the main is done with outhaul and vang. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 8:48 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck Backstay tension flattens the upper (2/3?) sam :-) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
For the past 2-3 years I've had a Guest 10 Amp charger keeping a pair of lead acid batteries topped up at the dock. It too is a solid state design which is great; if not bullet-proof, for sure waterproof. http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289963id=1450046 Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:41 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I really like the new solid state units, and so far no problems. Wal ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
Well yes, I take that back - you're right.sam :-) From: Rick BrassSent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:40 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckProvided you have a keel stepped mast and either a baby stay or forward lower shrouds to cause the mast to bend.On a boat like my 25, with a deck stepped mast and neither forward shrouds nor stay, all tightening the backstay accomplishes is tensioning the forestay and take the curve out of the luff of the genoa. Flattening the main is done with outhaul and vang.Rick BrassFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 8:48 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckBackstay tension flattens the upper (2/3?)sam :-)___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
