Re: Stus-List Leak into interior from sliding companioway hatch stop

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I don't know how similar the 37/40+ is to the 35mk3 but I am in process of 
addressing similar leaks. 

Taking off the hood was fairly straightforward - but did involve removing the 
traveller track. 

I also found that the aft end "stop" was loose - at one time - probably not 
original bedded with silicon.   

On the 35 this stop cannot be eliminated as it also prevents water from making 
its way under the sliding hatch - and supposed to direct the water through two 
limber holes to the channels each side. In my case the starboard side limber 
hole was completely blocked! 

I removed the stop (required removing teak bungs to access the wood screws) 
cleaned off the silicon and rebedded the stop liberally with life caulk. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 14, 2017, at 21:40, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> On our 37/40+, I think one of the leaks into the interior of the boat is 
> coming from the stop for the companionway hatch.  There is a athwartship 
> board that serves as a stop for  the companionway hatch that, though I can 
> only get my fingers on it, appears loose  this is under the hood that covers 
> the front and sides of the hatch.   
> 
> I am thinking of doing away with the board stop, and allowing the wood piece 
> at the front of the hat to act like a stop.  That's how it was set up on our 
> C&C 27 MKIII.  I am thinking I would remove the 18" or so length of wood, and 
> fill in the holes with white Marine Tex.  
> 
> First question - is there an easy way to get the hood off for easier access 
> and to make sure we have everything sealed?
> 
> Second, what think you about removing the board and allowing the front of the 
> hatch (with the wood drop-down to act as the stop?
> 
> Thanks for your input!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Has anyone with a 35mkIII replaced the three hinges that are attached to the 
plexiglass cover for the winch handle (?) tray that is just forward of the main 
hatch. I have the hinges off the boat, and though they are stamped Perko Zinc 
there is no serial / model number. What I thought were equivalents from West 
Marine do not have the same hole pattern and thus do not line up with the holes 
in the fibreglass or the plexi. I would rather not have to replace the plexi 
just because of the hinges.  If anyone has the model number of the original 
Perko hinges, I would be most grateful. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

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Re: Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

http://www.perko.com/catalog/category_products/cabinet_hardware-hinges/

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 7:57 AM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Has anyone with a 35mkIII replaced the three hinges that are attached to
> the plexiglass cover for the winch handle (?) tray that is just forward of
> the main hatch. I have the hinges off the boat, and though they are stamped
> Perko Zinc there is no serial / model number. What I thought were
> equivalents from West Marine do not have the same hole pattern and thus do
> not line up with the holes in the fibreglass or the plexi. I would rather
> not have to replace the plexi just because of the hinges.  If anyone has
> the model number of the original Perko hinges, I would be most grateful.
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List '85 33mkii crumbling, chafing electrical wire

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Had the exact same issue with crumbling insulation on nav lights on my 85’  
33ii.. Strongly recommend replacing it with new 2 conductor wire.  Can be a 
real hassle getting the wire run through the pulpit to below decks.

Mike Amirault
C&C 33ii  Lovely Cruise
SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I did.  Sea Dog makes 2 sizes that are off by about an 1/8 of an inch.  It
was the smaller ones.  I think one was 2 1/8 overall and one was 2 1/4, but
that was a few years back.
(so that is what that compartment is for!)

Joel
Former 35/3

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 8:57 AM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Has anyone with a 35mkIII replaced the three hinges that are attached to
> the plexiglass cover for the winch handle (?) tray that is just forward of
> the main hatch. I have the hinges off the boat, and though they are stamped
> Perko Zinc there is no serial / model number. What I thought were
> equivalents from West Marine do not have the same hole pattern and thus do
> not line up with the holes in the fibreglass or the plexi. I would rather
> not have to replace the plexi just because of the hinges.  If anyone has
> the model number of the original Perko hinges, I would be most grateful.
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Leak into interior from sliding companioway hatch stop

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

If you remove the back stop you risk jamming your fingers between the top teak 
trim and the hood. You also risk breaking the plexi cover if someone shoves it 
back a little too aggressively.  As “indigo” also said, the back stop may play 
a role in diverting water into the limber holes and away from the boat’s 
interior. 

Mike Amirault
C&C33ii  Lovely Cruise
SMSC___

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Stus-List alternator testing

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

While out for a lovely day sailing Saturday we noted that the electric head was 
not draining properly.  When I checked it seems like the motor was straining 
and may need replacement.  Afterward when motoring back to our club we noted 
some issues with wind instrument and then chart plotter.  Checking voltage 
meter revealed a reading of nothing on house bank and 13 volts on starter 
battery.  Back at dock with shore power connected and charger on the voltage 
was over 12v and all systems and head functioning normally.  Next morning with 
Charging turned off the house batteries showed full charge and all was working.

A very quick check revealed no loose belts and alternator was at least 
spinning.  I was in the middle of a different project that had to be done while 
it was not raining so left it there for now (installing new genoa tracks).

What is the best place to start?

Engine is Yanmar 3GM30F

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

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Re: Stus-List alternator testing

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Standard alternator has in internal regulator.  I'd disconnect from shore
power and then run a load on the batteries - frig, 12 volt motor etc.
Check voltage.  Start engine, look for a jump in voltage.

Or I'd just pull the alternator and take it to be tested.  Non OEM
alternators are cheap.

Joel

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:22 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While out for a lovely day sailing Saturday we noted that the electric
> head was not draining properly.  When I checked it seems like the motor was
> straining and may need replacement.  Afterward when motoring back to our
> club we noted some issues with wind instrument and then chart plotter.
> Checking voltage meter revealed a reading of nothing on house bank and 13
> volts on starter battery.  Back at dock with shore power connected and
> charger on the voltage was over 12v and all systems and head functioning
> normally.  Next morning with Charging turned off the house batteries showed
> full charge and all was working.
>
>
>
> A very quick check revealed no loose belts and alternator was at least
> spinning.  I was in the middle of a different project that had to be done
> while it was not raining so left it there for now (installing new genoa
> tracks).
>
>
>
> What is the best place to start?
>
>
>
> Engine is Yanmar 3GM30F
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild (Mark G)

[Doug Ellmore via CnC-List]

I replaced my C&C 24 rudder from one from ruddercraft.com.

Huge improvement.

POC - rich...@ruddercraft.com

Doug
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Re: Stus-List '85 33mkii crumbling, chafing electrical wire

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Same issue.  Had to run the wire up from inside the anchor locker through
the pulpit and grab the end.  It would not feed through the deck when I
tried it the other way.

Joel

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:06 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Had the exact same issue with crumbling insulation on nav lights on my
> 85’  33ii.. Strongly recommend replacing it with new 2 conductor wire.  Can
> be a real hassle getting the wire run through the pulpit to below decks.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C&C 33ii  Lovely Cruise
> SMSC
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List '85 33mkii crumbling, chafing electrical wire

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 8:36 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Same issue.  Had to run the wire up from inside the anchor locker through
> the pulpit and grab the end.  It would not feed through the deck when I
> tried it the other way.


I've removed/replaced several pulpits.  The hole in the deck is usually
smaller than the pulpit tube diameter.  Also, I've seen pulpit flanges with
holes that are smaller than the tube diameter.  In either case, feeding the
wire down is not a percentage shot.  The wire will hit the deck or flange
lip.

I've been able to use the old wire to pull a messenger and feed it that way
but more often that not I'll either feed it up through the deck or unfasten
and lift that pulpit leg for access.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List How to wire propane detector

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,


I want to install a propane detector and i wanted to ask the list how to do it 
properly. Does it have to be wired to the battery like a bilge pump or i can 
wire it to the solenoid switch ?


Is there a safety code that appplies ?


i plan to install it as low as possible near the stove.


Thanks.


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 C&C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc.



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Re: Stus-List Wire or rope halyard

[Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List]

Thank you all for your suggestions. I have decided to replace my
wire-to-rope halyard with 3/8 Samson MLX (doublebraid cover over Dyneema
core). Now my only question is whether to strip to the core for the "wire
section" of the new halyard. For me, there is still the sheave question.
Several of you have said your existing sheaves took a larger rope, others
replaced the sheave. I do believe my 1980 LF38 main halyard sheave was
intended for wire only. I don't believe I can show the photo here on this
list, but I have placed it in a public Dropbox link (below) if anyone is
interested to see it. The close-up shows the existing 3/16 wire in the
sheave. Very careful measurements of this and other photos at different
levels of magnification and angles indicate the sheave width (at the top
inside - without jumping up on the "rim" of the sheave) is slightly less
than double the diameter of the 3/16 wire. To me that suggests that even a
3/8 rope could squeeze down into the sheave under tension and cause a lot
of friction or chafing. Seems best to strip to the core (stripping to core
said to be ok with this line) for the section from inside the mast to the
sail head. Comments? Dyneema at this size is supposed to be >8000 lb
strength, so I think even a knot on the shackle wouldn't weaken it to any
dangerous level. (I have no splicing skill.)  Double bowline for slick line
(tightened up under winch tension) or other suggestion? Thanks. Photo at
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gb7cg1b9rovjz56/DSC_0150cropped.jpg?dl=0
Tom

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:22 AM,  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Dave S 
> To: "C&c Stus List" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 20:46:24 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
> This is exactly what I did as well.   No problem at all.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> - Forwarded message --
> From: Rick Brass 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 20:12:03 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
>
> I replaced the wire-rope halyards on both my 25 and my 38 with all rope.
> No problem with the sheeves on either. And I stitched a messemger line to
> the end of the rope, pulled out the old halyard, stitched the messenger to
> the end of the new halyard, and pulled it down through the mast. Easy-Peesy.
>
>
>
> And as a  bonus, if you still have the oversized halyards made of yacht
> braid, you can switch to a modern line and go down a size or two on the
> diameter.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
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Re: Stus-List Wire or rope halyard

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced all of my wire-rope halyards with all rope.  I also replaced
some of my sheaves (http://www.zephyrwerks.com/), since the edges were so
sharp that I felt they would fray the rope halyards. I just used ordinary
double braid - not high tech line.  Unless you're a racer who is losing
races by seconds, I would be more concerned with my sails and my crew work.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 7:50 AM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you all for your suggestions. I have decided to replace my
> wire-to-rope halyard with 3/8 Samson MLX (doublebraid cover over Dyneema
> core). Now my only question is whether to strip to the core for the "wire
> section" of the new halyard. For me, there is still the sheave question.
> Several of you have said your existing sheaves took a larger rope, others
> replaced the sheave. I do believe my 1980 LF38 main halyard sheave was
> intended for wire only. I don't believe I can show the photo here on this
> list, but I have placed it in a public Dropbox link (below) if anyone is
> interested to see it. The close-up shows the existing 3/16 wire in the
> sheave. Very careful measurements of this and other photos at different
> levels of magnification and angles indicate the sheave width (at the top
> inside - without jumping up on the "rim" of the sheave) is slightly less
> than double the diameter of the 3/16 wire. To me that suggests that even a
> 3/8 rope could squeeze down into the sheave under tension and cause a lot
> of friction or chafing. Seems best to strip to the core (stripping to core
> said to be ok with this line) for the section from inside the mast to the
> sail head. Comments? Dyneema at this size is supposed to be >8000 lb
> strength, so I think even a knot on the shackle wouldn't weaken it to any
> dangerous level. (I have no splicing skill.)  Double bowline for slick line
> (tightened up under winch tension) or other suggestion? Thanks. Photo at
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/gb7cg1b9rovjz56/DSC_0150cropped.jpg?dl=0
> 
> Tom
>
> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:22 AM,  wrote:
>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Dave S 
>> To: "C&c Stus List" 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 20:46:24 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
>> This is exactly what I did as well.   No problem at all.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> - Forwarded message --
>> From: Rick Brass 
>> To: 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 20:12:03 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
>>
>> I replaced the wire-rope halyards on both my 25 and my 38 with all rope.
>> No problem with the sheeves on either. And I stitched a messemger line to
>> the end of the rope, pulled out the old halyard, stitched the messenger to
>> the end of the new halyard, and pulled it down through the mast. Easy-Peesy.
>>
>>
>>
>> And as a  bonus, if you still have the oversized halyards made of yacht
>> braid, you can switch to a modern line and go down a size or two on the
>> diameter.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>>
>> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
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>
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>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List How to wire propane detector

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruno,

 

My boat came with an installed propane sensor which did not work and a
solenoid.  The circuit is fed from its’ own breaker.  I ended up replacing
the sensor with a Fireboy Xintex.  See:
http://www.fireboy-xintex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/S-1A-Manual.pdf for
wiring instructions.  The sensor is mounted under the stove.  I hope this
helps.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2017 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List How to wire propane detector

 

 

Hi, 

 

I want to install a propane detector and i wanted to ask the list how to do
it properly. Does it have to be wired to the battery like a bilge pump or i
can wire it to the solenoid switch ? 

 

Is there a safety code that appplies ?

 

i plan to install it as low as possible near the stove.

 

Thanks.

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 C&C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc.

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Wire or rope halyard

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Tom,

Not sure but that may be a wire/rope sheave.  Look at this pic of a couple
of wire/rope sheaves:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsTzNCZWtUQ2JQeVE

The wire sheave on my 35-1 is about half as wide as your sheave appears to
be.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:50 AM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you all for your suggestions. I have decided to replace my
> wire-to-rope halyard with 3/8 Samson MLX (doublebraid cover over Dyneema
> core). Now my only question is whether to strip to the core for the "wire
> section" of the new halyard. For me, there is still the sheave question.
> Several of you have said your existing sheaves took a larger rope, others
> replaced the sheave. I do believe my 1980 LF38 main halyard sheave was
> intended for wire only. I don't believe I can show the photo here on this
> list, but I have placed it in a public Dropbox link (below) if anyone is
> interested to see it. The close-up shows the existing 3/16 wire in the
> sheave. Very careful measurements of this and other photos at different
> levels of magnification and angles indicate the sheave width (at the top
> inside - without jumping up on the "rim" of the sheave) is slightly less
> than double the diameter of the 3/16 wire. To me that suggests that even a
> 3/8 rope could squeeze down into the sheave under tension and cause a lot
> of friction or chafing. Seems best to strip to the core (stripping to core
> said to be ok with this line) for the section from inside the mast to the
> sail head. Comments? Dyneema at this size is supposed to be >8000 lb
> strength, so I think even a knot on the shackle wouldn't weaken it to any
> dangerous level. (I have no splicing skill.)  Double bowline for slick line
> (tightened up under winch tension) or other suggestion? Thanks. Photo at
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/gb7cg1b9rovjz56/DSC_0150cropped.jpg?dl=0
> Tom
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wire or rope halyard

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Tom,

Dyneema is very slippery, so a splice is best.  Uncovered Dyneema is so
easy to splice even I can do it.  You taper one fid lenght, bury a total of
3 and lock stitch it.

Joel

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 10:50 AM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you all for your suggestions. I have decided to replace my
> wire-to-rope halyard with 3/8 Samson MLX (doublebraid cover over Dyneema
> core). Now my only question is whether to strip to the core for the "wire
> section" of the new halyard. For me, there is still the sheave question.
> Several of you have said your existing sheaves took a larger rope, others
> replaced the sheave. I do believe my 1980 LF38 main halyard sheave was
> intended for wire only. I don't believe I can show the photo here on this
> list, but I have placed it in a public Dropbox link (below) if anyone is
> interested to see it. The close-up shows the existing 3/16 wire in the
> sheave. Very careful measurements of this and other photos at different
> levels of magnification and angles indicate the sheave width (at the top
> inside - without jumping up on the "rim" of the sheave) is slightly less
> than double the diameter of the 3/16 wire. To me that suggests that even a
> 3/8 rope could squeeze down into the sheave under tension and cause a lot
> of friction or chafing. Seems best to strip to the core (stripping to core
> said to be ok with this line) for the section from inside the mast to the
> sail head. Comments? Dyneema at this size is supposed to be >8000 lb
> strength, so I think even a knot on the shackle wouldn't weaken it to any
> dangerous level. (I have no splicing skill.)  Double bowline for slick line
> (tightened up under winch tension) or other suggestion? Thanks. Photo at
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/gb7cg1b9rovjz56/DSC_0150cropped.jpg?dl=0
> Tom
>
> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:22 AM,  wrote:
>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Dave S 
>> To: "C&c Stus List" 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 20:46:24 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
>> This is exactly what I did as well.   No problem at all.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> - Forwarded message --
>> From: Rick Brass 
>> To: 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 20:12:03 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
>>
>> I replaced the wire-rope halyards on both my 25 and my 38 with all rope.
>> No problem with the sheeves on either. And I stitched a messemger line to
>> the end of the rope, pulled out the old halyard, stitched the messenger to
>> the end of the new halyard, and pulled it down through the mast. Easy-Peesy.
>>
>>
>>
>> And as a  bonus, if you still have the oversized halyards made of yacht
>> braid, you can switch to a modern line and go down a size or two on the
>> diameter.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>>
>> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List How to wire propane detector

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Thank you Ron, i see that i can use the propane system circuit. This is 
convenient.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 C&C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc.


De : Ron Ricci 
Envoyé : 15 mai 2017 11:09
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : 'Bruno Lachance'
Objet : RE: Stus-List How to wire propane detector


Bruno,



My boat came with an installed propane sensor which did not work and a 
solenoid.  The circuit is fed from its’ own breaker.  I ended up replacing the 
sensor with a Fireboy Xintex.  See: 
http://www.fireboy-xintex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/S-1A-Manual.pdf for 
wiring instructions.  The sensor is mounted under the stove.  I hope this helps.

S-1A Propane and CNG Fume Detector 
Manual
www.fireboy-xintex.com
Created Date: 5/17/2006 10:13:03 AM





Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2017 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List How to wire propane detector





Hi,



I want to install a propane detector and i wanted to ask the list how to do it 
properly. Does it have to be wired to the battery like a bilge pump or i can 
wire it to the solenoid switch ?



Is there a safety code that appplies ?



i plan to install it as low as possible near the stove.



Thanks.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 C&C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc.






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Stus-List Looking for recommendation for a good rigger

[Jim via CnC-List]

Hi group:

I need rigging repairs to my 29 located on the northern Chesapeake. I reached 
out to Walden rigging, the only riggers I know of, around here, who have a 
great rep. Sadly they are so busy, it may be late July before I will be able to 
get my repairs done and use my boat.

There are a bunch of riggers based out of Annapolis, which is about 1.5 hours 
away,  but I don't know who to contact.

Anybody on this list have a recommendation?

Thanks
Jim
S/V Strong Tower
C&C 29-1
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Re: Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Thanks for this. I contacted Perko and they were able to give me the exact 
dimensions / hole placements etc and gave me a part number (0851DP1CHR). Found 
it a local, well stocked marine store shout out to Rex Marine in Norwalk CT!  - 
NOT West! and confirmed by comparing old to New that is the same!  Only 
downside is that they come two to a pack and I need 3!!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 15, 2017, at 09:05, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> http://www.perko.com/catalog/category_products/cabinet_hardware-hinges/
> 
>> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 7:57 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Has anyone with a 35mkIII replaced the three hinges that are attached to the 
>> plexiglass cover for the winch handle (?) tray that is just forward of the 
>> main hatch. I have the hinges off the boat, and though they are stamped 
>> Perko Zinc there is no serial / model number. What I thought were 
>> equivalents from West Marine do not have the same hole pattern and thus do 
>> not line up with the holes in the fibreglass or the plexi. I would rather 
>> not have to replace the plexi just because of the hinges.  If anyone has the 
>> model number of the original Perko hinges, I would be most grateful.
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C&C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation for a good rigger

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I took my Navtec backstay adjuster to The Rigging Company and was pretty
satisfied with their service.
https://theriggingco.com/

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 12:24 PM Jim via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi group:
>
> I need rigging repairs to my 29 located on the northern Chesapeake. I
> reached out to Walden rigging, the only riggers I know of, around here, who
> have a great rep. Sadly they are so busy, it may be late July before I will
> be able to get my repairs done and use my boat.
>
> There are a bunch of riggers based out of Annapolis, which is about 1.5
> hours away,  but I don't know who to contact.
>
> Anybody on this list have a recommendation?
>
> Thanks
> Jim
> S/V Strong Tower
> C&C 29-1
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation for a good rigger

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Have you checked with Tidewater in Havre de Grace?   They've been around a 
while and have a decent reputation.  Saves a long trip down the bay to Nap town.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 15, 2017, at 1:40 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I took my Navtec backstay adjuster to The Rigging Company and was pretty 
> satisfied with their service.
> https://theriggingco.com/
> 
>> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 12:24 PM Jim via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hi group:
>> 
>> I need rigging repairs to my 29 located on the northern Chesapeake. I 
>> reached out to Walden rigging, the only riggers I know of, around here, who 
>> have a great rep. Sadly they are so busy, it may be late July before I will 
>> be able to get my repairs done and use my boat.
>> 
>> There are a bunch of riggers based out of Annapolis, which is about 1.5 
>> hours away,  but I don't know who to contact.
>> 
>> Anybody on this list have a recommendation?
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Jim
>> S/V Strong Tower
>> C&C 29-1
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation for a good rigger

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Is the mast down?  you could try rigging only and mail your stuff there 
and they will duplicate it or if you know your exact dimensions and 
specs they could make it and ship it.  rigging only is in Fairhaven, MA 
and pretty reasonable



On 5/15/2017 4:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:
Have you checked with Tidewater in Havre de Grace?   They've been 
around a while and have a decent reputation.  Saves a long trip down 
the bay to Nap town.

Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

On May 15, 2017, at 1:40 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I took my Navtec backstay adjuster to The Rigging Company and was 
pretty satisfied with their service.

https://theriggingco.com/

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 12:24 PM Jim via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi group:

I need rigging repairs to my 29 located on the northern
Chesapeake. I reached out to Walden rigging, the only riggers I
know of, around here, who have a great rep. Sadly they are so
busy, it may be late July before I will be able to get my repairs
done and use my boat.

There are a bunch of riggers based out of Annapolis, which is
about 1.5 hours away,  but I don't know who to contact.

Anybody on this list have a recommendation?

Thanks
Jim
S/V Strong Tower
C&C 29-1
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Re: Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Yes, I still have one as a backup.

That hinge stock number is actually 0951DP1CHR.

Perko also makes the same hinge in zinc, which is what C&C used in the
first place, at least on my boat. Part number for that is 0808DP0CHR.

The zinc ones are way cheaper than the bronze ones, but will definitely
decay faster in salt water. I went cheap, I can replace these about five
times for the cost of the bronze ones.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 15 May 2017 at 09:44, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:

> Thanks for this. I contacted Perko and they were able to give me the exact
> dimensions / hole placements etc and gave me a part number (0851DP1CHR).
> Found it a local, well stocked marine store shout out to Rex Marine in
> Norwalk CT!  - NOT West! and confirmed by comparing old to New that is the
> same!  Only downside is that they come two to a pack and I need 3!!
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
>
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