Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Scratching my head. Presumably the point of the second battery switch is to 
switch some circuit(s) open or closed. But to me it's weird. I'd generally 
expect the switching to be on the hot side of the circuits, and all grounding 
to be (unswitched) to the engine block and therefore the prop shaft. (Not that 
I'm all that experienced with boat electrical systems). Where does the black 
cable off the "common" stud of that second battery switch run to? 

Regarding the #1 battery, an easy test to isolate battery fault versus other 
faults would be to connect it to a known good charger (only). If it won't 
charge up or hold a charge, it's the battery. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Chris Hobson via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Chris Hobson"  
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2017 11:44:42 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...) 


Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
helpful advice really appreciate it. I’m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
electrical and figured I’d post a few photos because maybe something is 
glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 

I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
common it is to have two main battery switches like this. 

Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
the other night from too much vino, it’s still dead and hasn’t recharged even 
though I’m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to my 
True-charge battery charger. 

Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
test, or try to find if there’s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it’s a badly hardwired autopilot 
and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don’t know enough about bad wiring. 
So anyway here are some photos of my current setup: 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing 

Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open. 

Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
negative terminals. 

Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1. 

Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries. 

Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
Cabin for battery switch #1. 

The way I see it I have three options: 

A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he’s booked till 
September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work 
B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it out 
C: Keep digging 

Chris Hobson 
S/V Going 
C&C 30-1 #615 
___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
Ensure batteries are well secured
Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates,
etc, where practical.
convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch
bag/flares/horn.
make/buy webbing jacklines

Howzat?


Dave
33-2




- Forwarded message --
From: john wright 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my
purpose ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500
in 2019), after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years.
The boat is in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.

Thanks

*Level 1: Repairs and Installations*
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as
needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
Replace all hoses for new engine
Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to
monitor visually
Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
Clean stains with FSR
Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
Clean teak with teak cleaner
Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces
Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint
Re-install mast and tune rigging
Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
Re-varnish companionway door
Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
Update propane solenoid
Remake companionway door cover to fit better
Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
Clean and polish all stainless hardware
Replace gasket material on all opening ports
Repaint all dorade vents
Replace traveler cam cleat
Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
Install and varnish framework for windows
Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
Re-install all cabinets and tables
Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
Head – re-cut new mirror and install
Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work


*Level 2: Updates and Improvements*
Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that
project
Paint steering pedestal white
Replace instruments
Replace opening port in cockpit with new
Add winch handle holders in cockpit
Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
Make set of cockpit cushions
Install a cockpit shower
Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
Replace all blocks with updated equipment
Replace all running rigging
Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws
deeper as wood has shrunk over time)
Sand toe rail and varnish
Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
Paint interior of chain locker
Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan
Yachts uses this style)
Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
Replace steering cables with new
Replace all interior lighting with LED
Install Isotherm hot water tank
Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
Add swim ladder


*Level 3: Enhancements*
Replace manual windlass with an electric version
Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator
Install reverse cycle heat and air conditioning system
Add custom fitted mattress for sleeping berths
New mainsail with deep double reef and Harken bat car track for ease of
hoist
Stack-pack for mainsail storage (see MacSails of Florida)
Gooseneck double reefing hook from South Shore Yachts
Replace standing rod rigging for peace of mind
Add Code Zero sail on Facnor continuous line f

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

> Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail

If you are planning to carry a 155% genoa a racing code zero ( defined here
as a flat spinnaker with the MidGirth < 75% of the Foot ) is an expensive sail
that will add benefit over a fairly small AWA.  A cruising code zero or reaching
asymmetrical might be 50% of the cost of a racing code zero and be a better fit.

> Add Code Zero sail on Facnor continuous line furling unit

Nice units. It is difficult getting a big spinnaker down, code zero or reaching
asymmetrical, if you are in a race. We normally douse when either the apparent
goes too far forward or the TWS gets above what we can carry a spinnaker in,
making the task a challenge double handing. If we head off wind to help 
shadow the spinnaker behind the genoa and main it takes us off course.

Windburn spent the last three hours of the Lake Ontario 300 flying spinnaker
at 60º AWA in 6 - 10 kts TWS.  It was a blast, routinely doing 6.2 kts in 8.4 
kts TWS.
Everything needs to be up sized, the forces involved will break things.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1





From: john wright  
 
Hello everyone 
 
I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later. 
 
I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.  
 
Thanks 
 
Level 1: Repairs and Installations 
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set 
Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as needed 
to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e 
Replace all hoses for new engine 
Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to monitor 
visually 
Gelcoat ? fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat 
Clean stains with FSR 
Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame) 
Clean teak with teak cleaner 
Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards 
Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces  
Hull bottom ? sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint  
Re-install mast and tune rigging 
Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again 
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat 
Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway 
Re-varnish companionway door 
Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood 
Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit 
Update propane solenoid  
Remake companionway door cover to fit better 
Deck and House ? clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes) 
Clean and polish all stainless hardware 
Replace gasket material on all opening ports 
Repaint all dorade vents 
Replace traveler cam cleat 
Clean, sand and varnish bow platform 
Stanchion support on starboard bent ? take to shop and straighten 
Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure 
Install and varnish framework for windows 
Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed 
Re-install all cabinets and tables 
Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth 
Ice box cover ? install hardware and gasket 
Head ? re-cut new mirror and install 
Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed 
Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work 
 
 
Level 2: Updates and Improvements 
Hull repainting ? large project to be described as we get closer to that 
project 
Paint steering pedestal white 
Replace instruments 
Replace opening port in cockpit with new 
Add winch handle holders in cockpit 
Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor 
Make set of cockpit cushions 
Install a cockpit shower 
Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years) 
Replace all blocks with updated equipment 
Replace all running rigging 
Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load 
Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper as 
wood has shrunk over time) 
Sand toe rail and varnish 
Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased 
Paint interior of chain locker 
Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry 
Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color 
All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan 
Yachts uses this style) 
Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit 
Replace steering cables with new 
Replace all interior lighting with LED 
Install Isotherm hot water tank 
Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics 
Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel 
Add swim ladder 
 
 
Level 3: Enhancements 
Replace manual windlass with an electric version 
Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass 
Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail 
Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator 
Install reverse cycle heat and air conditioning system 
Add custom fitted mattress 

Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

If there has been a problem with AC leakage from other boats then completely 
disconnecting
all grounds might help. No idea, just guessing. The battery charger would need 
to be connected
directly to the battery(s), which looks like it is from the pictures.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2017 07:35:58 + (UTC) 
From: RANDY  
 
Scratching my head. Presumably the point of the second battery switch is to 
switch some circuit(s) open or closed. But to me it's weird. I'd generally 
expect the switching to be on the hot side of the circuits, and all grounding 
to be (unswitched) to the engine block and therefore the prop shaft. (Not that 
I'm all that experienced with boat electrical systems). Where does the black 
cable off the "common" stud of that second battery switch run to?  
 
Regarding the #1 battery, an easy test to isolate battery fault versus other 
faults would be to connect it to a known good charger (only). If it won't 
charge up or hold a charge, it's the battery.  
 
Cheers,  
Randy  
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List A/C Drip Pan Rusting, Clogged Drain, etc. - C&C 37/40+

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ with an Adler/Barbour A/C unit.  The drain pan is the 
issue.  When we bought the boat, the surveyor noticed the rusty pan, and 
suggested cleaning out the rust. In addition, the drain for the pan for some 
reason is in the side of the unit rather than in the bottom.  The hose then 
attaches, runs a couple inches and goes through a hole and down to the 
through-hull.  Why the pan was not made out of Aluminum, Stainless or HDPE is 
beyond me!  Instead, it is painted mild steel.  Ugh... 

That said, the paint is flaking off, and is somewhat rubbery, and therefore 
clogging the drain.  My questions are as follows:
The unit seems relatively difficult to get out, and access to the far side of 
the pan is virtually impossible.  Is there a cure for the rust & paint peeling 
that does not involve removing the unit?  Also, have any of you revised the 
drain so that it drains down, rather than through the side of the pan?  Have 
any of you replaced the pan, and how big a deal was it?
Thanks for all your help, Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A/C Drip Pan Rusting, Clogged Drain, etc. - C&C 37/40+

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have a CruisAir A/C.  The condensate pan is plastic or composite but even
it drains from the side.  I think they design them that way because more
often than not, the pan sits on a flat surface.

Anyway, I almost cringe to suggest this but what about some of that crazy
rubber stuff they advertise on TV?  The commercial where they make a boat
out of screen and coat it with the rubbery stuff?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:09 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ with an Adler/Barbour A/C unit.  The drain pan
> is the issue.  When we bought the boat, the surveyor noticed the rusty pan,
> and suggested cleaning out the rust. In addition, the drain for the pan for
> some reason is in the side of the unit rather than in the bottom.  The hose
> then attaches, runs a couple inches and goes through a hole and down to the
> through-hull.  Why the pan was not made out of Aluminum, Stainless or HDPE
> is beyond me!  Instead, it is painted mild steel.  Ugh...
>
> That said, the paint is flaking off, and is somewhat rubbery, and
> therefore clogging the drain.  My questions are as follows:
>
> The unit seems relatively difficult to get out, and access to the far side
> of the pan is virtually impossible.  Is there a cure for the rust & paint
> peeling that does not involve removing the unit?  Also, have any of you
> revised the drain so that it drains down, rather than through the side of
> the pan?  Have any of you replaced the pan, and how big a deal was it?
>
> Thanks for all your help,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Chris,

In 15+ years of doing electrical on many different boats, I have never seen
a switch on the negative wires.  My inclination would be to replace it with
a Blue Sea Power Post or Power Post Plus.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 12:44 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery
> terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how
> common it is to have two main battery switches like this.
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 1973 
wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a 
huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore 
a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 6:36 AM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
Ensure batteries are well secured
Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, etc, 
where practical.
convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
bag/flares/horn.
make/buy webbing jacklines

Howzat?


Dave
33-2




- Forwarded message --
From: john wright 
mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.

Thanks

Level 1: Repairs and Installations
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as needed 
to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
Replace all hoses for new engine
Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to monitor 
visually
Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
Clean stains with FSR
Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
Clean teak with teak cleaner
Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces
Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint
Re-install mast and tune rigging
Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
Re-varnish companionway door
Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
Update propane solenoid
Remake companionway door cover to fit better
Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
Clean and polish all stainless hardware
Replace gasket material on all opening ports
Repaint all dorade vents
Replace traveler cam cleat
Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
Install and varnish framework for windows
Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
Re-install all cabinets and tables
Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
Head – re-cut new mirror and install
Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work


Level 2: Updates and Improvements
Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that project
Paint steering pedestal white
Replace instruments
Replace opening port in cockpit with new
Add winch handle holders in cockpit
Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
Make set of cockpit cushions
Install a cockpit shower
Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
Replace all blocks with updated equipment
Replace all running rigging
Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper as 
wood has shrunk over time)
Sand toe rail and varnish
Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
Paint interior of chain locker
Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan 
Yachts uses this style)
Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
Replace steering cables with new
Replace all interior lighting with LED
Install Isotherm hot water tank
Replace in

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Dave via CnC-List]

With the exception of push and pulpit, IMO '85 was done quite well by the 
factory.

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe  wrote:
> 
> Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 1973 
> wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
> project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
> Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a 
> huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to 
> restore a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 6:36 AM
> To: C&c Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
>  
> Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
> Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
> Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
> Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
> Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
> Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
> Ensure batteries are well secured
> Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
> Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
> When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, 
> etc, where practical.
> convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
> bag/flares/horn.
> make/buy webbing jacklines
>  
> Howzat?
>  
>  
> Dave
> 33-2
>  
>  
>  
>  
> - Forwarded message --
> From: john wright 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
> Hello everyone
>  
> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose 
> ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
> after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
> in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
>  
> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
> recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Level 1: Repairs and Installations
> Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
> Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
> needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
> Replace all hoses for new engine
> Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to 
> monitor visually
> Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
> Clean stains with FSR
> Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
> Clean teak with teak cleaner
> Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
> Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces 
> Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint 
> Re-install mast and tune rigging
> Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
> Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
> Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
> Re-varnish companionway door
> Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
> Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
> Update propane solenoid 
> Remake companionway door cover to fit better
> Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
> Clean and polish all stainless hardware
> Replace gasket material on all opening ports
> Repaint all dorade vents
> Replace traveler cam cleat
> Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
> Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
> Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
> Install and varnish framework for windows
> Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
> Re-install all cabinets and tables
> Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
> Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
> Head – re-cut new mirror and install
> Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
> Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work
>  
>  
> Level 2: Updates and Improvements
> Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that 
> project
> Paint steering pedestal white
> Replace instruments
> Replace opening port in cockpit with new
> Add winch handle holders in cockpit
> Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
> Make set of cockpit cushions
> Install a cockpit shower
> Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
> Replace all blocks with updated equipment
> Replace all running rigging
> Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
> Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper 
> as wood has shrunk over time)
> Sand toe rail and varnish
> Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
> Paint interior of chain locker
> Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to d

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

They finally discovered tinned wire?
☺
Joe
Coquina

From: syerd...@gmail.com [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 8:47 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

With the exception of push and pulpit, IMO '85 was done quite well by the 
factory.

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>> wrote:
Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 1973 
wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a 
huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore 
a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 6:36 AM
To: C&c Stus List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
Ensure batteries are well secured
Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, etc, 
where practical.
convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
bag/flares/horn.
make/buy webbing jacklines

Howzat?


Dave
33-2




- Forwarded message --
From: john wright 
mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.

Thanks

Level 1: Repairs and Installations
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as needed 
to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
Replace all hoses for new engine
Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to monitor 
visually
Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
Clean stains with FSR
Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
Clean teak with teak cleaner
Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces
Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint
Re-install mast and tune rigging
Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
Re-varnish companionway door
Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
Update propane solenoid
Remake companionway door cover to fit better
Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
Clean and polish all stainless hardware
Replace gasket material on all opening ports
Repaint all dorade vents
Replace traveler cam cleat
Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
Install and varnish framework for windows
Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
Re-install all cabinets and tables
Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
Head – re-cut new mirror and install
Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work


Level 2: Updates and Improvements
Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that project
Paint steering pedestal white
Replace instruments
Replace opening port in cockpit with new
Add winch handle holders in cockpit
Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
Make set of cockpit cushions
Install a cockpit shower
Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
Replace all blocks with updated equipment
Replace all running rigging
Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper as 
wood has shrunk over time)
Sand toe rail and 

Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Chris,

A few things. First, I've never seen a switch in the negative battery leads.  
Not sure what that's all about but as long as it's set to ALL, it's probably 
not hurting anything.  

Second, you might try checking the battery charger fuses. The Truecharge has 
two 15 amp fuses under the wiring compartment plate, one for each battery.

Third, I'm guessing your battery is shot.  The date code on your batteries 
shows that your battery #1 is dated Feb 2008 and your battery #2 is dated April 
2009.  If either of them still holds a charge, you are still living on borrowed 
time.  Nine years is a very long life for flooded cels in a marine environment. 
If I were you, I'd replace them both and consider upgrading to sealed AGMs, if 
nothing else, for peace of mind.  My luck has always been that starting 
batteries only fail when it's blowing 35 knots and I'd like to get back to port!

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn, C&C 40 TMDK
Fort Walton Beach, FL


Sent from my iPad

> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 22:44:42 -0700
> From: Chris Hobson 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)
> Message-ID: <389cf2d4-39b5-48c6-a2dd-99a86086a...@hobsonbuildsco.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
> helpful advice really appreciate it. I?m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
> electrical and figured I?d post a few photos because maybe something is 
> glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 
> 
> I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
> terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
> common it is to have two main battery switches like this.
> 
> Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
> the other night from too much vino, it?s still dead and hasn?t recharged even 
> though I?m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to 
> my True-charge battery charger.
> 
> Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
> test, or try to find if there?s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
> surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it?s a badly hardwired autopilot 
> and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don?t know enough about bad 
> wiring. So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing
> 
> Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.
> 
> Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
> negative terminals.
> 
> Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
> Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.
> 
> Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.
> 
> Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
> under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
> Cabin for battery switch #1.
> 
> The way I see it I have three options:
> 
> A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he?s booked till 
> September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
> B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it 
> out
> C: Keep digging
> 
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> C&C 30-1 #615
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore a boat and get
yourself as Port Supply account.


That won't get you a lot.  I have had a Port Supply (now West Marine Pro)
account for years.  It is volume based.  As a low volume buyer, my discount
is negligible.  I can buy stuff online cheaper than West Marine Pro.

It's OK for the gotta have it now stuff.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as
> 1973 wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one
> hour project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
>
> Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for
> a huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to
> restore a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.
>
>
>
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

It is variable. On electronics you might get about $1 off, but for some other 
things it is huge – like close to half!
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 9:11 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore a boat and get 
yourself as Port Supply account.

That won't get you a lot.  I have had a Port Supply (now West Marine Pro) 
account for years.  It is volume based.  As a low volume buyer, my discount is 
negligible.  I can buy stuff online cheaper than West Marine Pro.

It's OK for the gotta have it now stuff.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 1973 
wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a 
huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore 
a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[robert via CnC-List]

Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell 
diesel fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls of 
fluid there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a 
sponge, first in a clear plastic container where you can clearly see two 
different liquids then pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at our 
recycle depot at the club.   The bottle holds 555 mls and it was almost 
full so I know how much diesel there was. Couldn't find the source 
yesterday.  The other day, I filled the fuel tank, over filled it almost 
to the deck.   Thinking it may have expanded in the heat but it should 
have gone overboard from the overfill hose.  Bottom of fuel tank was 
dry.   No loss of engine power so the fuel line doesn't seem to be 
leaking.   Mystery???


Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Prop on Rudder

[robert via CnC-List]

What will they think of next?

http://www.yachtingworld.com/comment/propellers-leading-charge-transform-way-cruising-yachts-use-power-103853



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List A/C Drip Pan Rusting, Clogged Drain, etc. - C&C 37/40+

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

My older CruisAir pans are metal  with a side drain.  You could try
Rustoleum primer and a finish coat or that crazy rubber stuff.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 8:24 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a CruisAir A/C.  The condensate pan is plastic or composite but
> even it drains from the side.  I think they design them that way because
> more often than not, the pan sits on a flat surface.
>
> Anyway, I almost cringe to suggest this but what about some of that crazy
> rubber stuff they advertise on TV?  The commercial where they make a boat
> out of screen and coat it with the rubbery stuff?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:09 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ with an Adler/Barbour A/C unit.  The drain pan
>> is the issue.  When we bought the boat, the surveyor noticed the rusty pan,
>> and suggested cleaning out the rust. In addition, the drain for the pan for
>> some reason is in the side of the unit rather than in the bottom.  The hose
>> then attaches, runs a couple inches and goes through a hole and down to the
>> through-hull.  Why the pan was not made out of Aluminum, Stainless or HDPE
>> is beyond me!  Instead, it is painted mild steel.  Ugh...
>>
>> That said, the paint is flaking off, and is somewhat rubbery, and
>> therefore clogging the drain.  My questions are as follows:
>>
>> The unit seems relatively difficult to get out, and access to the far
>> side of the pan is virtually impossible.  Is there a cure for the rust &
>> paint peeling that does not involve removing the unit?  Also, have any of
>> you revised the drain so that it drains down, rather than through the side
>> of the pan?  Have any of you replaced the pan, and how big a deal was it?
>>
>> Thanks for all your help,
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

One year I overfilled my diesel tank for winter storage (so that fuel was in 
the hose leading to the deck fill).  Diesel fuel ended up in the bilge, and 
I discovered that it is tenacious when it comes to seeping through things. 
Unlike the water in the bilge, the fuel found its way through the C&C smile, 
which is how I discovered it.  I figured it probably worked its way through 
the hose connecting point.


-Original Message- 
From: robert via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell
diesel fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls of
fluid there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a
sponge, first in a clear plastic container where you can clearly see two
different liquids then pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at our
recycle depot at the club.   The bottle holds 555 mls and it was almost
full so I know how much diesel there was. Couldn't find the source
yesterday.  The other day, I filled the fuel tank, over filled it almost
to the deck.   Thinking it may have expanded in the heat but it should
have gone overboard from the overfill hose.  Bottom of fuel tank was
dry.   No loss of engine power so the fuel line doesn't seem to be
leaking.   Mystery???

Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

We have found the prices at Defender marine to be a hellava lot cheaper
than West marine PRO.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
C&C 39TM - HONEY - US12788
Savannah, GA 31410 USA


This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you


On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 9:10 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore a boat and get
> yourself as Port Supply account.
>
>
> That won't get you a lot.  I have had a Port Supply (now West Marine Pro)
> account for years.  It is volume based.  As a low volume buyer, my discount
> is negligible.  I can buy stuff online cheaper than West Marine Pro.
>
> It's OK for the gotta have it now stuff.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as
>> 1973 wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one
>> hour project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
>>
>> Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay
>> for a huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired”
>> to restore a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Roger that.

From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 9:36 AM
To: C&CList 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

We have found the prices at Defender marine to be a hellava lot cheaper than 
West marine PRO. 

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald 
C&C 39TM - HONEY - US12788
Savannah, GA 31410 USA



This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you



On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 9:10 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

  go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore a boat and get 
yourself as Port Supply account.



  That won't get you a lot.  I have had a Port Supply (now West Marine Pro) 
account for years.  It is volume based.  As a low volume buyer, my discount is 
negligible.  I can buy stuff online cheaper than West Marine Pro.

  It's OK for the gotta have it now stuff.


  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

  On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 
1973 wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!

Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for 
a huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to 
restore a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account. 






  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[robert via CnC-List]

One Spring day, when the temperature rose, I had diesel running down the 
side of my hull from the vent hose just under rail because I did the 
same thing, put diesel in the hose leading up to the deck fill..it 
expanded but it never made its way to the bilge though .


Hoping you are right in that it make be a loose connection in a hose.

Will burn off about a gallon of diesel today (get the diesel out of the 
fill hose) and see if the problem goes away.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-08-01 10:33 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
One year I overfilled my diesel tank for winter storage (so that fuel 
was in the hose leading to the deck fill). Diesel fuel ended up in the 
bilge, and I discovered that it is tenacious when it comes to seeping 
through things. Unlike the water in the bilge, the fuel found its way 
through the C&C smile, which is how I discovered it.  I figured it 
probably worked its way through the hose connecting point.


-Original Message- From: robert via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell
diesel fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls of
fluid there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a
sponge, first in a clear plastic container where you can clearly see two
different liquids then pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at our
recycle depot at the club.   The bottle holds 555 mls and it was almost
full so I know how much diesel there was. Couldn't find the source
yesterday.  The other day, I filled the fuel tank, over filled it almost
to the deck.   Thinking it may have expanded in the heat but it should
have gone overboard from the overfill hose.  Bottom of fuel tank was
dry.   No loss of engine power so the fuel line doesn't seem to be
leaking.   Mystery???

Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Defender is cheaper the West, but their shipping costs have turned me off
lately.  If you have an Amazon Prime account you can do as well or better
with the free shipping on a lot of stuff.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 9:43 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Roger that.
>
> *From:* Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 01, 2017 9:36 AM
> *To:* C&CList 
> *Cc:* Jack Fitzgerald 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
>
> We have found the prices at Defender marine to be a hellava lot cheaper
> than West marine PRO.
>
> Best regards,
> Jack Fitzgerald
> C&C 39TM - HONEY - US12788
> Savannah, GA 31410 USA
>
>
> This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
> Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
> privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
> that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
> communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
> have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 9:10 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore a boat and get
>> yourself as Port Supply account.
>>
>>
>> That won't get you a lot.  I have had a Port Supply (now West Marine Pro)
>> account for years.  It is volume based.  As a low volume buyer, my discount
>> is negligible.  I can buy stuff online cheaper than West Marine Pro.
>>
>> It's OK for the gotta have it now stuff.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as
>>> 1973 wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one
>>> hour project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
>>>
>>> Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay
>>> for a huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired”
>>> to restore a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Could be, but my boat is about 1 mile from West Marine and a couple hundred or 
more from Defender, so Port Supply is still a big help when I need something 
mid-project.
This made me curious, so I took a look at something I just bought – 4 gauge 
wire.
Defender - $2.32/foot
Port Supply - $2.60/foot
West normal price - $3.19/foot
Genuindealz (my favorite eBay marine wire store) - $1.92 a foot (tinned but not 
fine strand like Ancor, they do carry a lot of Ancor as well)
Excelene welding cable 4 gauge (all over Ebay, very flexible, NOT tinned so 
watch how you make the ends) $1.29/foot

BTW – the two absolute *worst* deals at West are batteries and solar panels. 
East-Penn Deka makes their batteries and they are cheaper literally anywhere 
else. Sams Club AGM group 31s are HALF the West price and they are the exact 
same thing.  West has the most expensive and crappiest solar panels I have ever 
seen anywhere too. They literally could buy them off Amazon, double the price, 
and still be better.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 9:36 AM
To: C&CList 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

We have found the prices at Defender marine to be a hellava lot cheaper than 
West marine PRO.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
C&C 39TM - HONEY - US12788
Savannah, GA 31410 USA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you


On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 9:10 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore a boat and get 
yourself as Port Supply account.

That won't get you a lot.  I have had a Port Supply (now West Marine Pro) 
account for years.  It is volume based.  As a low volume buyer, my discount is 
negligible.  I can buy stuff online cheaper than West Marine Pro.

It's OK for the gotta have it now stuff.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 1973 
wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a 
huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore 
a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.



___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Agreed as to the warning on the wiring, and as of 1994, no, they did not wire 
the boats with tinned wire.  I am finding a LOT of the wire in my boat to be 
blackend with corrosion.  While it is still largely functional, in the back of 
my mind I'm weighing the long-term need for properly rewiring the boat.  

:(  
 Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 To: "syerd...@gmail.com"  
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2017 8:48 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
   
#yiv2301047447 #yiv2301047447 -- _filtered #yiv2301047447 
{font-family:Wingdings;panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;} _filtered #yiv2301047447 
{panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv2301047447 
{font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv2301047447 
#yiv2301047447 p.yiv2301047447MsoNormal, #yiv2301047447 
li.yiv2301047447MsoNormal, #yiv2301047447 div.yiv2301047447MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv2301047447 a:link, 
#yiv2301047447 span.yiv2301047447MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2301047447 a:visited, #yiv2301047447 
span.yiv2301047447MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2301047447 
span.yiv2301047447EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv2301047447 
span.yiv2301047447EmailStyle18 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv2301047447 
.yiv2301047447MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv2301047447 
{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv2301047447 div.yiv2301047447WordSection1 
{}#yiv2301047447 They finally discovered tinned wire? J Joe Coquina    From: 
syerd...@gmail.com [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 8:47 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38    With the exception of 
push and pulpit, IMO '85 was done quite well by the factory.

Sent from my iPad 
On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe  wrote: 
Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 1973 
wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
project and ended up rewiring my whole boat! Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas 
stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a huge discount. Do also go to 
West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore a boat and get yourself as 
Port Supply account.    Joe Coquina   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 6:36 AM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38   Inspect label and secure 
all wiring.replace as required. Inspect and service (as required) all through 
hulls. Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses. Inspect, clean and protect 
all key electrical grounding points. Consider upgraded protection for exposed 
engine controls and instruments. Consider upgraded ventilation for holding 
tank. Ensure batteries are well secured Upgrade air movement within lockers etc 
where possible. Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing. When working 
on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, etc, where 
practical. convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
bag/flares/horn. make/buy webbing jacklines   Howzat?     Dave 33-2         
- Forwarded message --
From: john wright 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38 Hello everyone   I am about to 
begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( sailing 
around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), after 
looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is in 
better than average condition, I will post pictures later.   I have the work 
broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any recommendations and 
reorganizing of the list.    Thanks   Level 1: Repairs and Installations 
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set Remove old engine, clean and 
repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e 
Replace all hoses for new engine Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel 
filter to easier location to monitor visually Gelcoat – fill all chips and 
nicks with gelcoat Clean stains with FSR Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy 
the connections to frame) Clean teak with teak cleaner Replace teak combing 
with thicker mahogany boards Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces  Hull bottom 
– sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint  Re-install mast and tune 
rigging Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again 
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat Repair/ refinish wood framework 
to companionway Re-varnish companionway door Make better drainage in port 
cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood Install the new Whale Gus

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

As Joe pointed out, the discount depends on what you buy. When I purchased the 
valves, hoses, and regulator for my LPG install the discount came to almost 
50%. On stuff like Blue Seas panels and ACR it is more like 10%.

 

I have a West Marine here in town, so I never pay shipping on anything I order. 
I find that when you consider the shipping cost from Defender, the total is 
usually higher than the local West.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2017 9:36 AM
To: C&CList 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

 

We have found the prices at Defender marine to be a hellava lot cheaper than 
West marine PRO.




Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald 

C&C 39TM - HONEY - US12788
Savannah, GA 31410 USA

 

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you

 

 

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 9:10 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore a boat and get 
yourself as Port Supply account.

 

That won't get you a lot.  I have had a Port Supply (now West Marine Pro) 
account for years.  It is volume based.  As a low volume buyer, my discount is 
negligible.  I can buy stuff online cheaper than West Marine Pro.

 

It's OK for the gotta have it now stuff.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 1973 
wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!

Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a 
huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore 
a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account. 

 

 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Dave via CnC-List]

Will need to check mine, i did a ton of work, and would have noticed what it 
was, but have forgotten.   There was no corrosion anyway.   The in-mast wiring 
was bare copper and uncorroded after 30 years, but it's a fresh water boat.
Dave.
Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:11 AM, Bruce Whitmore  wrote:
> 
> Agreed as to the warning on the wiring, and as of 1994, no, they did not wire 
> the boats with tinned wire.  I am finding a LOT of the wire in my boat to be 
> blackend with corrosion.  While it is still largely functional, in the back 
> of my mind I'm weighing the long-term need for properly rewiring the boat.  
> 
> :(  
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
> To: "syerd...@gmail.com"  
> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2017 8:48 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
> 
> They finally discovered tinned wire?
> J
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: syerd...@gmail.com [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 8:47 AM
> To: Della Barba, Joe 
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
>  
> With the exception of push and pulpit, IMO '85 was done quite well by the 
> factory.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe  wrote:
> Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 1973 
> wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
> project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
> Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a 
> huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to 
> restore a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 6:36 AM
> To: C&c Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
>  
> Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
> Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
> Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
> Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
> Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
> Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
> Ensure batteries are well secured
> Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
> Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
> When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, 
> etc, where practical.
> convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
> bag/flares/horn.
> make/buy webbing jacklines
>  
> Howzat?
>  
>  
> Dave
> 33-2
>  
>  
>  
>  
> - Forwarded message --
> From: john wright 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
> Hello everyone
>  
> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose 
> ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
> after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
> in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
>  
> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
> recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Level 1: Repairs and Installations
> Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
> Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
> needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
> Replace all hoses for new engine
> Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to 
> monitor visually
> Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
> Clean stains with FSR
> Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
> Clean teak with teak cleaner
> Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
> Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces 
> Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint 
> Re-install mast and tune rigging
> Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
> Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
> Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
> Re-varnish companionway door
> Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
> Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
> Update propane solenoid 
> Remake companionway door cover to fit better
> Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
> Clean and polish all stainless hardware
> Replace gasket material on all opening ports
> Repaint all dorade vents
> Replace traveler cam cleat
> Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
> Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
> Add maintenance coat of varnish on floo

Re: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Inspect the fill hose.  When I first bought Touche' the fill hose was
deteriorated.  The inner and outer liners had separated.  I filled the tank
up to the fill so there was fuel standing in the fill hose.  It leaked.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 8:22 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell diesel
> fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls of fluid
> there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a sponge, first
> in a clear plastic container where you can clearly see two different
> liquids then pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at our recycle depot at
> the club.   The bottle holds 555 mls and it was almost full so I know how
> much diesel there was. Couldn't find the source yesterday.  The other day,
> I filled the fuel tank, over filled it almost to the deck.   Thinking it
> may have expanded in the heat but it should have gone overboard from the
> overfill hose.  Bottom of fuel tank was dry.   No loss of engine power so
> the fuel line doesn't seem to be leaking.   Mystery???
>
> Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Joe — PLEASE don’t use welding cable on a boat.  It’s not UL- or ABYC-approved 
for marine use, and the fact that it’s not tinned should be a huge red flag, 
especially for you saltwater boaters.

4AWG marine battery cable from Pacer Marine is $1.75/ft retail: 
http://www.pacergroup.net/4-gauge-battery-cable/ 


I’ve been using these guys for many years, and their wire products for marine 
use are equal or superior to just about anything else our there, and reasonably 
priced.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Could be, but my boat is about 1 mile from West Marine and a couple hundred 
> or more from Defender, so Port Supply is still a big help when I need 
> something mid-project.
> This made me curious, so I took a look at something I just bought – 4 gauge 
> wire.
> Defender - $2.32/foot
> Port Supply - $2.60/foot
> West normal price - $3.19/foot
> Genuindealz (my favorite eBay marine wire store) - $1.92 a foot (tinned but 
> not fine strand like Ancor, they do carry a lot of Ancor as well)
> Excelene welding cable 4 gauge (all over Ebay, very flexible, NOT tinned so 
> watch how you make the ends) $1.29/foot
>  
> BTW – the two absolute *worst* deals at West are batteries and solar panels. 
> East-Penn Deka makes their batteries and they are cheaper literally anywhere 
> else. Sams Club AGM group 31s are HALF the West price and they are the exact 
> same thing.  West has the most expensive and crappiest solar panels I have 
> ever seen anywhere too. They literally could buy them off Amazon, double the 
> price, and still be better.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Wow – cheapest yet!
I always loved the Ancor wire because of the fine strands, but this is a great 
deal!
I have been buying the yellow Ancor for ground wiring lately. I may get around 
to redoing it all one day to match the latest color codes.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I.


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 10:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

Joe — PLEASE don’t use welding cable on a boat.  It’s not UL- or ABYC-approved 
for marine use, and the fact that it’s not tinned should be a huge red flag, 
especially for you saltwater boaters.

4AWG marine battery cable from Pacer Marine is $1.75/ft retail: 
http://www.pacergroup.net/4-gauge-battery-cable/

I’ve been using these guys for many years, and their wire products for marine 
use are equal or superior to just about anything else our there, and reasonably 
priced.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Could be, but my boat is about 1 mile from West Marine and a couple hundred or 
more from Defender, so Port Supply is still a big help when I need something 
mid-project.
This made me curious, so I took a look at something I just bought – 4 gauge 
wire.
Defender - $2.32/foot
Port Supply - $2.60/foot
West normal price - $3.19/foot
Genuindealz (my favorite eBay marine wire store) - $1.92 a foot (tinned but not 
fine strand like Ancor, they do carry a lot of Ancor as well)
Excelene welding cable 4 gauge (all over Ebay, very flexible, NOT tinned so 
watch how you make the ends) $1.29/foot

BTW – the two absolute *worst* deals at West are batteries and solar panels. 
East-Penn Deka makes their batteries and they are cheaper literally anywhere 
else. Sams Club AGM group 31s are HALF the West price and they are the exact 
same thing.  West has the most expensive and crappiest solar panels I have ever 
seen anywhere too. They literally could buy them off Amazon, double the price, 
and still be better.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List c&c 37

[pete shelquist via CnC-List]

The Trans-Superior race is starting this weekend in Sault Ste Marie, Ont and 
finishes in Duluth MN.  http://www.transsuperior.com/ .   

 

A new entrant this year is Mac McKenzie and his C&C37, Worthy Pearl, out of 
Etobicoke, On.  Anyone on the list know him or the boat?  It’s great to see 
more competitors traveling up our way for this race.

 

thanks

 

 

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Re: Stus-List A/C Drip Pan Rusting, Clogged Drain, etc. - C&C 37/40+

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

Agitate, scrape and vacuum as much loose stuff & 
scale as practical and then treat metal surfaces with Ospho.

www.ospho.com

I've been using the stuff for decades (found out 
about it in Hawaii, on a cruise). It's magic, 
basically a dilute form of phosphoric acid with 
modifiers so it flows nicely. You can paint it 
afterward with Rustorleum if you feel like it, or 
just do a "top-up" treatment each year.


Handyman tip: applied to rust stains with a 
scotch-brite pad, easy to rid of the stains on 
anything (copious amounts of water to protect surrounding area).


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:27 AM 01/08/2017, you wrote:
My older CruisAir pans are metal  with a side 
drain.  You could try Rustoleum primer and a 
finish coat or that crazy rubber stuff.


Joel



On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 8:24 AM, Dennis C. via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have a CruisAir A/C.  The condensate pan is 
plastic or composite but even it drains from the 
side.  I think they design them that way 
because more often than not, the pan sits on a flat surface.


Anyway, I almost cringe to suggest this but what 
about some of that crazy rubber stuff they 
advertise on TV?  The commercial where they 
make a boat out of screen and coat it with the rubbery stuff?


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 7:09 AM, Bruce Whitmore 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hello all,

We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ with an Adler/Barbour 
A/C unit.  The drain pan is the issue.  When 
we bought the boat, the surveyor noticed the 
rusty pan, and suggested cleaning out the rust. 
In addition, the drain for the pan for some 
reason is in the side of the unit rather than in 
the bottom.  The hose then attaches, runs a 
couple inches and goes through a hole and down 
to the through-hull.  Why the pan was not made 
out of Aluminum, Stainless or HDPE is beyond 
me!  Instead, it is painted mild steel.  Ugh...


That said, the paint is flaking off, and is 
somewhat rubbery, and therefore clogging the 
drain.  My questions are as follows:


The unit seems relatively difficult to get out, 
and access to the far side of the pan is 
virtually impossible.  Is there a cure for the 
rust & paint peeling that does not involve 
removing the unit?  Also, have any of you 
revised the drain so that it drains down, rather 
than through the side of the pan?  Have any of 
you replaced the pan, and how big a deal was it?


Thanks for all your help,
Â
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I just fixed a fuel leak on my engine by replacing the O ring on the
secondary filter. I had been having no issues with starting or running the
engine, but there was a drip. One thing I do is keep an "oil-sorb" pad
under the engine. That does two things; helps me locate any oil drips and
stops oil making it into the bilge.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 9:22 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell diesel
> fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls of fluid
> there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a sponge, first
> in a clear plastic container where you can clearly see two different
> liquids then pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at our recycle depot at
> the club.   The bottle holds 555 mls and it was almost full so I know how
> much diesel there was. Couldn't find the source yesterday.  The other day,
> I filled the fuel tank, over filled it almost to the deck.   Thinking it
> may have expanded in the heat but it should have gone overboard from the
> overfill hose.  Bottom of fuel tank was dry.   No loss of engine power so
> the fuel line doesn't seem to be leaking.   Mystery???
>
> Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List c&c 37

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

I don't know him, but I a darn sure rootin' fer him!

 

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

-Original Message-
From: pete shelquist via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: pete shelquist 
Sent: Tue, Aug 1, 2017 11:21 am
Subject: Stus-List c&c 37



The Trans-Superior race is starting this weekend in Sault Ste Marie, Ont and 
finishes in Duluth MN.  http://www.transsuperior.com/ .   
 
A new entrant this year is Mac McKenzie and his C&C37, Worthy Pearl, out of 
Etobicoke, On.  Anyone on the list know him or the boat?  It’s great to see 
more competitors traveling up our way for this race.
 
thanks
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Paul E via CnC-List]

I have been very happy with marine wire from Greg’s Marine Wire Supply:  4 AWG 
Tinned Marine Battery Cable   $1.64/ft

https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2017 14:29:19 +
> From: "Della Barba, Joe"  >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
> Message-ID:
>   <0ac30d6820b14e5c9f6c410911013...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Wow ? cheapest yet!
> I always loved the Ancor wire because of the fine strands, but this is a 
> great deal!
> I have been buying the yellow Ancor for ground wiring lately. I may get 
> around to redoing it all one day to match the latest color codes.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I.

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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I think he may source from Pacer Marine; they’re in Florida.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 11:18 AM, Paul E via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have been very happy with marine wire from Greg’s Marine Wire Supply:  4 
> AWG Tinned Marine Battery Cable   $1.64/ft
> 
> https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Dave S via CnC-List]

On hookup wire - ancor has done a wonderful job of marketing...  'nuff said...

Industrial hookup wire equivalent in construction is CSA type TEW aka UL style 
1015.
This specifies a .030" pvc insulation, 600v 105 deg C rating.
Gauge/stranding is as follows:  10/104, 12/65, 14/41, 16/26, 18/16.
You need to specify BC or TC for bare or tinned copper conductors.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:29 AM, Della Barba, Joe  wrote:
> 
> Wow – cheapest yet!
> I always loved the Ancor wire because of the fine strands, but this is a 
> great deal!
> I have been buying the yellow Ancor for ground wiring lately. I may get 
> around to redoing it all one day to match the latest color codes.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I.
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
> G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 10:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
>  
> Joe — PLEASE don’t use welding cable on a boat.  It’s not UL- or 
> ABYC-approved for marine use, and the fact that it’s not tinned should be a 
> huge red flag, especially for you saltwater boaters.
>  
> 4AWG marine battery cable from Pacer Marine is $1.75/ft retail: 
> http://www.pacergroup.net/4-gauge-battery-cable/
>  
> I’ve been using these guys for many years, and their wire products for marine 
> use are equal or superior to just about anything else our there, and 
> reasonably priced.
>  
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>  
> On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
> Could be, but my boat is about 1 mile from West Marine and a couple hundred 
> or more from Defender, so Port Supply is still a big help when I need 
> something mid-project.
> This made me curious, so I took a look at something I just bought – 4 gauge 
> wire.
> Defender - $2.32/foot
> Port Supply - $2.60/foot
> West normal price - $3.19/foot
> Genuindealz (my favorite eBay marine wire store) - $1.92 a foot (tinned but 
> not fine strand like Ancor, they do carry a lot of Ancor as well)
> Excelene welding cable 4 gauge (all over Ebay, very flexible, NOT tinned so 
> watch how you make the ends) $1.29/foot
>  
> BTW – the two absolute *worst* deals at West are batteries and solar panels. 
> East-Penn Deka makes their batteries and they are cheaper literally anywhere 
> else. Sams Club AGM group 31s are HALF the West price and they are the exact 
> same thing.  West has the most expensive and crappiest solar panels I have 
> ever seen anywhere too. They literally could buy them off Amazon, double the 
> price, and still be better.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
>  
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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Paul E via CnC-List]

John,

Wally’s site is a wonderful guide and inspiration.   There are several other 
Landfall 38 owners who have insightful blogs: RainDays, Raft, VioletHour; are 
just the first few which come up on a google search. 

I have recently done much of the same refits on my boat.  Below is a direct 
link to my project page.


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:25 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> From: john wright > >
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
>> Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
>> Hello everyone
>> 
>> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my 
>> purpose ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 
>> in 2019), after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. 
>> The boat is in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
>> 
>> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
>> recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
>> 
>> Thanks

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Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi,

You should take a look at the lines and check for cracks in the Racor
housing..  My engine developed loss of power / stalling issues last year
and it was related to an air leak, once we started looking at the fuel
system in details we found issues everywhere.

I'm not kidding. My lift pump was tired, the fuel hoses had small cracks,
there was a problem with the one-way valve at the tank (Not needed, I just
removed that), and even my Racor housing was cracked so I replaced
everything: the lines, the Racor and housing/mounting, the lift pump, the
one way valve was removed, all is fresh from the tank to the block and the
engine runs fine  / the cold starts are much quicker.

Good luck with it.

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Paul

I looked at your engine rebuilt post.  What a daunting job!

Great work

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul E via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 1:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul E
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

John,

Wally’s site is a wonderful guide and inspiration.   There are several other 
Landfall 38 owners who have insightful blogs: RainDays, Raft, VioletHour; are 
just the first few which come up on a google search.

I have recently done much of the same refits on my boat.  Below is a direct 
link to my project page.


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:25 AM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

From: john wright 
mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.

Thanks

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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

So far I have not seen anything about rigging - inspections, checks, 
replacement?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 1, 2017, at 12:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Paul

I looked at your engine rebuilt post.  What a daunting job!

Great work

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul E via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 1:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul E
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

John,

Wally’s site is a wonderful guide and inspiration.   There are several other 
Landfall 38 owners who have insightful blogs: RainDays, Raft, VioletHour; are 
just the first few which come up on a google search.

I have recently done much of the same refits on my boat.  Below is a direct 
link to my project page.


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:25 AM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

From: john wright 
mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.

Thanks

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Remember too that if there is fuel in the fill hose that there is fuel in
the vent hose.  Often times the vent hose isn't inspected or replaced at
the same periodicity.

Main Sailor did some experimenting with fuel tanks and condensation.  FWIW
he did not find that any more condensation accumulated in a partial tank.
As such I take a different approach to fueling my boat.  Typically I won't
use the entire 40 gallon capacity of my tank in a single year.  So unless
I'm going on a long trip I only fuel up with 10 to 15 gallons.  I try to
plan it so that I can fill via jerry cans through a filter funnel.  At
roughly 1 gallon per hour I know that I'm good for 10+ hours at full load.
It only takes about 30 minutes to motor out and motor in so I get a minimum
of 10 day sails between fill ups and that is very conservative.  By filling
in this manner my fuel always stays fresh and any minor contaminants will
get diluted by the next fill up.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 1, 2017 9:23 AM, "robert via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell diesel
> fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls of fluid
> there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a sponge, first
> in a clear plastic container where you can clearly see two different
> liquids then pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at our recycle depot at
> the club.   The bottle holds 555 mls and it was almost full so I know how
> much diesel there was. Couldn't find the source yesterday.  The other day,
> I filled the fuel tank, over filled it almost to the deck.   Thinking it
> may have expanded in the heat but it should have gone overboard from the
> overfill hose.  Bottom of fuel tank was dry.   No loss of engine power so
> the fuel line doesn't seem to be leaking.   Mystery???
>
> Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I agree Robert, very likely what you suspect
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 10:22 AM, robert via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell diesel
> fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls of fluid
> there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a sponge, first
> in a clear plastic container where you can clearly see two different liquids
> then pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at our recycle depot at the
> club.   The bottle holds 555 mls and it was almost full so I know how much
> diesel there was. Couldn't find the source yesterday.  The other day, I
> filled the fuel tank, over filled it almost to the deck.   Thinking it may
> have expanded in the heat but it should have gone overboard from the
> overfill hose.  Bottom of fuel tank was dry.   No loss of engine power so
> the fuel line doesn't seem to be leaking.   Mystery???
>
> Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I don't have much to add beyond what Jake said, but I bought a 35-III about
a year and a half ago and have been living aboard for a little over a
year.  I love it.

Agree with Jake that you'll be reefing early and often, but as long as you
limit it to the appropriate amount of canvas it's a really nice, balanced
boat to sail.  I've put plenty of people who are new to sailing on the helm
in relatively heavy breeze and watched them hold a nice upwind line.  I've
also found it very comfortable to live on.

Highly recommend this boat if you can find one in good condition.

Survey tip: On mine, there were keel bolt spacers in the bilge that were
made of aluminum and had gone totally soft, to the point that the keel
could be pushed back and forth when the boat was hauled.  I replaced those
with G10 and have had no problems since, but it was a big, expensive job
and something to watch out for.

Sam
C&C 35-III Scoundrel
SF


On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 5:12 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Richard,
>
>
>
> I am among one of the many 35-III owners on the list here.  I love mine.
> It is a bit tender, but sails to its rating and wins a lot of races.  It is
> comfortable to cruise with two, but I’ve also raced with 7 on-board in the
> Annapolis-to-Bermuda Race (on “The Office”, another35-III sistership).
>
>
>
> The boat is a little tender.  You will be one of the first people to reef,
> but it points well and sails like a C&C should.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Gotthardt via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 27, 2017 16:23
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Richard Gotthardt 
> *Subject:* Stus-List 35 MK III
>
>
>
> I'm looking for a boat and was wondering if there's a "boats for sale"
> section on cncphotoalbum.com ?
>
>
>
> Is anyone familiar with this boat, or have any comments based on the scant
> information that's posted?
>
>
>
> https://muskegon.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-mk-iii-sailboat/6235586493.html
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

[Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List]

On my '76 33-1, the cockpit drains into thru hulls with inline ball valves in a 
y configuration below the cockpit floor and then straight down thru the hull, 
well beneath the waterline. It appears from line drawings that this is the only 
practical configuration. If the drains were rerouted to either side of the hull 
or to the stern above the waterline, there would a) not be enough slope, and b) 
the outlets would allow water back into the cockpit when heeling or with a 
following wave. Has anyone done this, or am I correct in my assessment?  Has 
anyone used marelon replacement flanged seacocks?  Their video says they are to 
be screwed only to a backing plate and not screwed all the way thru the hull. 
Seems like a good solution if it works. Thx for any input. Barbara 
Hickson"Flight Risk" '76 33-1Charleston, SC


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 4:51 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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Today's Topics:

  1.  Diesel in bilge (Francois Rivard)
  2. Re:  Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38 (Hoyt, Mike)
  3. Re:  Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38 (John Irvin)
  4. Re:  Diesel in bilge (Josh Muckley)
  5. Re:  Diesel in bilge (dwight veinot)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2017 12:56:11 -0400
From: Francois Rivard 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List  Diesel in bilge
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi,

You should take a look at the lines and check for cracks in the Racor
housing..  My engine developed loss of power / stalling issues last year
and it was related to an air leak, once we started looking at the fuel
system in details we found issues everywhere.

I'm not kidding. My lift pump was tired, the fuel hoses had small cracks,
there was a problem with the one-way valve at the tank (Not needed, I just
removed that), and even my Racor housing was cracked so I replaced
everything: the lines, the Racor and housing/mounting, the lift pump, the
one way valve was removed, all is fresh from the tank to the block and the
engine runs fine  / the cold starts are much quicker.

Good luck with it.

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2017 16:56:59 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Message-ID:
    <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f3c5...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul

I looked at your engine rebuilt post.  What a daunting job!

Great work

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul E via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 1:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul E
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

John,

Wally?s site is a wonderful guide and inspiration.  There are several other 
Landfall 38 owners who have insightful blogs: RainDays, Raft, VioletHour; are 
just the first few which come up on a google search.

I have recently done much of the same refits on my boat.  Below is a direct 
link to my project page.


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:25 AM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

From: john wright 
mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.

Thanks

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Stus-List 73 30 MK1 Bilge Pump

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

While we're having so many conversations on bilge pumps, I have another
question for you.  I picked up a project  '73 30' MK 1.  There is a float
switch in the bilge, right under the forward access hole.  There are wires
leading forward through the bilge toward the mast, as well as a hose that
leads out of the bilge, around the head, up the wall by the holding tank,
and out through a drain at the top of the hull (I had assumed it to be a
vent previously).  I have reached up through the bilge as far as I can, put
a camera in there and took some pictures, used a mirror and flashlight,
everything I could think of (I don't have a borescope), but I can't find the
pump or the end of the hose/wires.  Does anybody know how to access the pump
and whether it is screwed down?  It almost has to be forward of the mast,
but I can't reach it.  I don't want to pull too hard on the hose, but I need
to find the pump and see what kind of shape it is in.  Any ideas?
Thanks,
Steve

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[john sandford via CnC-List]

Hi John

Everyone has different views, but my priorities are

1.   Don’t want the mast coming down, = Mast, Spreaders, Standing and 
running rigging. Remove, replace everything, repin with SS bolts and nylocs, 
not clevis pins.

2.   And while its getting 1. Done = renew wiring, fit LEDs, Halyards, 
sheaves, Antennae, Mast Gate, reef blocks on boom, Instruments,  remove any 
mast internal slapping noise. (usually wiring)

3.   Don’t want to sink for stupidity, = Shell Envelope, through hulls, 
keel bolts, hoses, shaft, rudder, bilge pumps, clean paint bilge, to spot leaks 
easily. (yard stripped the hull to gelcoat and many Interprotect+3 coat AF, 
different colors) 

4.   Want to sail short handed = Extra reefs, Lines aft to cockpit, upgrade 
traveller, lazy jacks, pilot.

5.   Then the Hotel services.

6.   Then the cosmetics

 

We have completed 1. To 4. On my LF38, over 2 years with no outside assistance 
apart from the bottom strip, haul and mast in/out.

Want to get at the 5, and 6. But they do not affect having a good weekend on 
board, ( who needs pretty teak and refrigeration anyway), so I’m enjoying the 
summer.

I will worry about the rest after haul out in November. Maybe 5. This winter

 

And, because I have done the important stuff, its comfortable to be able to 
sail in 40k, without worrying about what someone else didn’t do, that might 
hurt you, or yours.

 

Also I tried to sort your list, below for what its worth.

 

BTW, I think the best improvement made was renewing the traveller with Harken 
Big Boat track and cars with controls led aft. I can adjust it from the helm.

The old one was like driving a car over a field of tree stumps with flat tires. 
Wouldnt budge under load.

 

John

LF38

#234

 

 

From: john wright [mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com] 
Sent: July-31-17 7:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

 

Hello everyone

 

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

 

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 

 

Thanks

 

Level 1: Repairs and Installations

1. 1. 1. 1. Replace standing rod rigging for peace of mind

1. Re-install mast and tune rigging

1. Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set

1. Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e

1. Replace all hoses for new engine

1. Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to 
monitor visually

1. Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit

1. Replace gasket material on all opening ports

1. Replace traveler cam cleat

1. Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten

1. Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)

1. Replace all blocks with updated equipment

1. Replace all running rigging

1. Replace steering cables with new

1. New mainsail with deep double reef and Harken bat car track for ease of hoist

1. Stack-pack for mainsail storage (see MacSails of Florida)

1. Gooseneck double reefing hook from South Shore Yachts

1. Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint 

1. Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat

Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat

Clean stains with FSR

Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)

Clean teak with teak cleaner

Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards

Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces  Repair/ refinish wood framework to 
companionway

Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again

Re-varnish companionway door

Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood

Update propane solenoid 

Remake companionway door cover to fit better

Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)

Clean and polish all stainless hardware

Repaint all dorade vents

Clean, sand and varnish bow platform

Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure

Install and varnish framework for windows

Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed

Re-install all cabinets and tables

Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth

Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket

Head – re-cut new mirror and install

Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed

Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work

 

 

Level 2: Updates and Improvements

Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that project

Paint steering pedestal white

Replace instruments

Replace opening port in cockpit with new

Add winch handle holders in cockpit

Paint new non-skid in cock

Re: Stus-List 73 30 MK1 Bilge Pump

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Steve : my pump is under my mast step. In a deep sump. My boat is of the 1979 
era though and may be different than yours . The hose also goes through the 
bilge to the back of the boat and exits under the toe rail on the port side 
opposite my wheel. 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:08 PM, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> While we’re having so many conversations on bilge pumps, I have another 
> question for you.  I picked up a project  ’73 30’ MK 1.  There is a float 
> switch in the bilge, right under the forward access hole.  There are wires 
> leading forward through the bilge toward the mast, as well as a hose that 
> leads out of the bilge, around the head, up the wall by the holding tank, and 
> out through a drain at the top of the hull (I had assumed it to be a vent 
> previously).  I have reached up through the bilge as far as I can, put a 
> camera in there and took some pictures, used a mirror and flashlight, 
> everything I could think of (I don’t have a borescope), but I can’t find the 
> pump or the end of the hose/wires.  Does anybody know how to access the pump 
> and whether it is screwed down?  It almost has to be forward of the mast, but 
> I can’t reach it.  I don’t want to pull too hard on the hose, but I need to 
> find the pump and see what kind of shape it is in.  Any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Steve
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[john wright via CnC-List]

That was great and helpful.

Thank Dave
> On Aug 1, 2017, at 6:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
> Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
> Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
> Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
> Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
> Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
> Ensure batteries are well secured
> Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
> Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
> When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, 
> etc, where practical.
> convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
> bag/flares/horn.
> make/buy webbing jacklines
> 
> Howzat?
> 
> 
> Dave
> 33-2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Forwarded message --
> From: john wright  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
> Hello everyone
> 
> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose 
> ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
> after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
> in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
> 
> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
> recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Level 1: Repairs and Installations
> Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
> Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
> needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
> Replace all hoses for new engine
> Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to 
> monitor visually
> Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
> Clean stains with FSR
> Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
> Clean teak with teak cleaner
> Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
> Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces 
> Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint 
> Re-install mast and tune rigging
> Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
> Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
> Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
> Re-varnish companionway door
> Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
> Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
> Update propane solenoid 
> Remake companionway door cover to fit better
> Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
> Clean and polish all stainless hardware
> Replace gasket material on all opening ports
> Repaint all dorade vents
> Replace traveler cam cleat
> Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
> Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
> Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
> Install and varnish framework for windows
> Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
> Re-install all cabinets and tables
> Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
> Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
> Head – re-cut new mirror and install
> Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
> Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work
> 
> 
> Level 2: Updates and Improvements
> Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that 
> project
> Paint steering pedestal white
> Replace instruments
> Replace opening port in cockpit with new
> Add winch handle holders in cockpit
> Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
> Make set of cockpit cushions
> Install a cockpit shower
> Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
> Replace all blocks with updated equipment
> Replace all running rigging
> Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
> Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper 
> as wood has shrunk over time)
> Sand toe rail and varnish
> Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
> Paint interior of chain locker
> Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
> Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
> All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan 
> Yachts uses this style)
> Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
> Replace steering cables with new
> Replace all interior lighting with LED
> Install Isotherm hot water tank
> Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
> Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
> Add swim ladder
> 
> 
> Level 3: Enhancements
> Replace manual windlass with an electric version
> Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
> Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
> Add Fischer P

Stus-List 35 - 3

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

Hello All,
I have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for about 25 years. I have raced and 
cruised with her extensively. She is one of the winning-est boats in the 
Middle Atlantic states. 18 trophies in the Around Long Island Regatta, 
multiple club championships. Multiple NJ offshore racing conference 
firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in C&C worlds. This summer, in two 
major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe, 
dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I am moving to California and it is 
too expensive to ship it, so it is for sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3 
available. Needs nothing and ready to sail away. Still actively being 
used. Extensive upgrades. Please email for pictures and complete info.

Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Howard

Kindly send me your photos and details. We received a very good offer on
our C&C 39 TM (owned since 1976) today and are looking to downsize. The 35
II maybe a good choice for us.

Thank you

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
Savannah, GA 31410 USA
Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no: 912 898.9458 - 24/7 mobile number: 912
441.2296
Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com


This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you


On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 9:20 PM, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello All,
> I have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for about 25 years. I have raced and
> cruised with her extensively. She is one of the winning-est boats in the
> Middle Atlantic states. 18 trophies in the Around Long Island Regatta,
> multiple club championships. Multiple NJ offshore racing conference firsts
> (seconds and thirds). Third in C&C worlds. This summer, in two major
> regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe, dependable
> wonderful sailing vessel. I am moving to California and it is too expensive
> to ship it, so it is for sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3 available. Needs
> nothing and ready to sail away. Still actively being used. Extensive
> upgrades. Please email for pictures and complete info.
> Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overloaded boat overturns near Cape Cod Canal

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

The article says it was a 24-footer. Still a load of bodies...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 27 July 2017 at 07:09, henry evans via CnC-List 
wrote:

> CG capacity on a boat that size would be about 6 or 7 people.  You just
> have to wonder if the owner who put 12 aboard has any semblance of a
> brain.  Perhaps he could find his again spending time behind bars.
>
> Hank Evans
>
>
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017, 7:23:32 AM CDT, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Have you guys seen this?
>
> https://wareham-ma.villagesoup.com/p/officials-
> bystanders-rescue-12-people-after-boat-capsizes-near-cape-
> cod-canal/1671817
>
> Danny
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Sounds like you are on top of things. Bon voyage!

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 1, 2017, at 9:11 PM, john wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

That was great and helpful.

Thank Dave
On Aug 1, 2017, at 6:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
Ensure batteries are well secured
Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, etc, 
where practical.
convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
bag/flares/horn.
make/buy webbing jacklines

Howzat?


Dave
33-2




- Forwarded message --
From: john wright 
mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.

Thanks

Level 1: Repairs and Installations
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as needed 
to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
Replace all hoses for new engine
Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to monitor 
visually
Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
Clean stains with FSR
Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
Clean teak with teak cleaner
Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces
Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint
Re-install mast and tune rigging
Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
Re-varnish companionway door
Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
Update propane solenoid
Remake companionway door cover to fit better
Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
Clean and polish all stainless hardware
Replace gasket material on all opening ports
Repaint all dorade vents
Replace traveler cam cleat
Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
Install and varnish framework for windows
Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
Re-install all cabinets and tables
Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
Head – re-cut new mirror and install
Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work


Level 2: Updates and Improvements
Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that project
Paint steering pedestal white
Replace instruments
Replace opening port in cockpit with new
Add winch handle holders in cockpit
Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
Make set of cockpit cushions
Install a cockpit shower
Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
Replace all blocks with updated equipment
Replace all running rigging
Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper as 
wood has shrunk over time)
Sand toe rail and varnish
Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
Paint interior of chain locker
Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan 
Yachts uses this style)
Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
Replace steering cables with new
Replace all interior lighting with LED
Install Isotherm hot water tank
Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
Add swim ladder


Level 3: Enhancements
Replace manual windlass with an electric version
Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator
Install reverse cycle 

Re: Stus-List Overloaded boat overturns near Cape Cod Canal

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

A 24 foot bow-rider will have installed seating 
for at least 12 people., 16 is not too much on a lake.


A Bahamian sloop will carry a dozen more than a 
CG certificate will allow. Blame the skipper, not 
the boat. The idiots, no wonder we have so much 
government in our pockets. It makes me sick thinking about it, sometimes.


Cheers, Russ

At 07:17 PM 01/08/2017, you wrote:

The article says it was a 24-footer. Still a load of bodies...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 27 July 2017 at 07:09, henry evans via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
CG capacity on a boat that size would be about 6 
or 7 people.  You just have to wonder if the 
owner who put 12 aboard has any semblance of a 
brain.  Perhaps he could find his again spending time behind bars.Â


Hank Evans


On Thursday, July 27, 2017, 7:23:32 AM CDT, 
Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Have you guys seen this?

https://wareham-ma.villagesoup.com/p/officials-bystanders-rescue-12-people-after-boat-capsizes-near-cape-cod-canal/1671817

Danny


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Re: Stus-List 73 30 MK1 Bilge Pump

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Steve my 1972 C&C 30 MK I (hull #7) has a deep sump under the mast step. Yours 
probably does too, and that's probably where the pump is. Hate to break it to 
you but the only way to access it is to pull the mast up (or out) and remove 
the mast step. For detail and pictures etc. have a look at the "bilge plumbing" 
section on page 26 of this document: 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM . 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Steven A. Demore via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Steven A. Demore"  
Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2017 6:08:04 PM 
Subject: Stus-List 73 30 MK1 Bilge Pump 



While we’re having so many conversations on bilge pumps, I have another 
question for you. I picked up a project ’73 30’ MK 1. There is a float switch 
in the bilge, right under the forward access hole. There are wires leading 
forward through the bilge toward the mast, as well as a hose that leads out of 
the bilge, around the head, up the wall by the holding tank, and out through a 
drain at the top of the hull (I had assumed it to be a vent previously). I have 
reached up through the bilge as far as I can, put a camera in there and took 
some pictures, used a mirror and flashlight, everything I could think of (I 
don’t have a borescope), but I can’t find the pump or the end of the 
hose/wires. Does anybody know how to access the pump and whether it is screwed 
down? It almost has to be forward of the mast, but I can’t reach it. I don’t 
want to pull too hard on the hose, but I need to find the pump and see what 
kind of shape it is in. Any ideas? 
Thanks, 
Steve 

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Stus-List clogged refrigerator drain

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Another question.

My refrigerator drain is clogged and it doesn’t seem to be a simple hose 
connection. There seems to be something under the refrigerator drain before the 
hose, but I can’t see how to get to it without pulling apart the boat. This is 
on a 35 Mk3

My favorite way to clear clogs these days is a steal cable casing in a drill 
but I don’t think that will work here. There seems to be a pan/plate blocking 
access from the refrigerator end. I will likely try to go the other way from 
the end of the hose that dumps under the sink into the bilge. 

Still, I would like to know what’s going on under the drain.
Anyone have any experience with this? 

Thanks in advance.


Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C&C 35 Mk3
Nyack, NY


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Re: Stus-List clogged refrigerator drain

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I would try to clear it with a "shop-vac" from 
the ice box side of things. You will probably 
need to neck down the vac hose to be effective.


The idea being that something went down to clog the hose FROM this opening.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:23 PM 01/08/2017, you wrote:
Another question. My refrigerator drain is 
clogged and it doesn’t seem to be a simple 
hose connection. There seems to be something 
under the refrigerator drain before the hose, 
but I can’t see how to get to it without 
pulling apart the boat. This is on a 35 Mk3 My 
favorite way to clear clogs these days is a 
steal cable casing in a drill but I don’t 
think that will work here. There seems to be a 
pan/plate blocking access from the refrigerator 
end. I will likely try to go the other way from 
the end of the hose that dumps under the sink 
into the bilge. Still, I would like to know 
what’s going on under the drain. Anyone have 
any experience with this? Thanks in advance. 
Matthew Schlanger The Office C&C 35 Mk3 Nyack, 
NY 
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

[sender via CnC-List]

I replied directly
Eric

On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 10:18 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi Eric,
>
> If you are serious about a 35, check out my boat. No issues, I plan to
> haul in late August (or earlier if opportunity presents) to do regular
> maintenance. I didn't put in the ad that the bottom was prep'd and
> waterproofed, Intercoat 2000, with the boat out of the water for 8 months
> many years ago. She shows no blisters at each haulout.
>
> http://www.usednanaimo.com/classified-ad/CC-35-sailboat_29730445
> Just across "the Pond" from Vancouver.
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
>
> *Sweet *At 09:51 PM 27/07/2017, you wrote:
>
> Richard:
> I recently bought a C&C 35 MkII in Vancouver, Fell in love with the boat.
> Â
>
> I had a survey done on it. I knew there were some issues with it, I had
> what I thought was a very close look at it. As it happens the surveyor
> found a lot more problems to my surprise. Â so I reluctantly let it go.Â
> I'd go for another one in a heartbeat.
>
> I've never had a close look at a Mk III, but despite my bitter
> disappointment I'd say go for it if the boat resonates with you.  The key
> is obviously is to make sure you get a purchase survey done on it.  The
> boat I looked at had a 3 year old insurance survey, and the seller
> suggested it was "still good".  Ha!Â
>
> Before you make an offer, check out the availability of marina slips in
> your area.
>
> Good luck,
> Eric
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 7:06 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> By the way, if you have need of a delivery captain who owns a C&C with
> full credentials, I have a good friend who bought my C&C when I left
> Chicago.  He teaches sailing classes and has done a number of Great Lakes
> deliveries.  I am sure he would be reasonably priced as well.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> C&C 37/40+
> Madeira Beach, FL
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/27/17 7:58 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Richard Gotthardt 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MK III
>
> Doug,
>
> Nice boat, but my search area is limited to Lake Michigan. I don't want to
> even think about shipping a boat.
>
> Thanks for the offer.
>
> On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 6:09 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Richard,Â
> I have my 1979 Landfall 38 for sale, if your interested. I moved up to the
> landfall 39. At least I think it was a move up. :-)Â
> Being a 2 boat owner...
> http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.
> jsp?&units=Feet&id=3098253&lang=en&slim=broker&&hosturl=
> westyachts&&ywo=westyachts&
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug MountjoyÂ
> POYCÂ
> PegasusÂ
> Lf38Â
> Significant OtherÂ
> LF39Â
>
>  Original message 
> From: Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/27/17 13:22 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Richard Gotthardt 
> Subject: Stus-List 35 MK III
>
> I'm looking for a boat and was wondering if there's a "boats for sale"
> section on cncphotoalbum.com ?
>
> Is anyone familiar with this boat, or have any comments based on the scant
> information that's posted?
>
> https://muskegon.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-mk-iii-sailboat/6235586493.html
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:Â
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:Â
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List feckless meanderings - Dylan

[sender via CnC-List]

Ahhh... so maybe Bob Dylan was a Yacht Broker before got into music??

You say you never compromise
With the mystery tramp, but now you realize
He's not selling any alibis
As you stare into the vacuum of his eyes
And say: Do you want to make a deal?

On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 2:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Boots Of Spanish Leather
> WRITTEN BY: BOB DYLAN
> Oh, I’m sailin’ away my own true love
> I’m sailin’ away in the morning
> Is there something I can send you from across the sea
> From the place that I’ll be landing?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 30, 2017, at 4:33 PM, G Collins via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> The song Mr. Tambourine Man does have the line "take me on a trip upon
> your magic swirlin' ship", and there is a C&C here with the name Magic
> Swirlin' Ship
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2017-07-30 1:46 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> "I am younger than that now."
>
> Must be a Dylan fan.
> Does he have any songs about sailboats?  Anything we can adapt to old C&Cs?
> Finally had a day under 90 F friday and went out sailing.  Winds at 20
> with gusts as high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it was a great
> choice, although tacking took a while.  Once through the tack, the wind
> just kept blowing the bow down.  Had to gain speed and nurse it back to
> windward.  Downwind was a blast!
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
> --
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dennis C.  
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws
>
> Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I get to Touché today to see
> 1/4 inch Phillips machine screws on the vang bracket. :)
>
> Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that
> now.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> One thing to remember about the Garhauer vang is that the attachment to
> both the mast and the boom are custom made for the boat (you send them the
> profile of the mast and boom when you order the vang), and the plates
> attached to the mast and boom wrap significantly around the spars. (On my
> 25 about half of the boom is cradled in the attached plate. ) So the
> fasteners connecting the plate to the spar are under primarily shear
> loading, not tensile.
>
> For this sort of configuration, the additional cross section of the
> machine screw (or cap screw, if you use those) would seem the better
> choice. If, however, you have something like a Boomkicker, or a vang with
> “generic” mounting plates that don’t curve around the spars, rivets might
> be a better choice.
>
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
> Washington, NC
>
> BTW, both have Garhauer vangs.
>
>
>
>
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>
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>
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