Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Of course, it is always “your boat, your choice”, but the PSS is not unsafe. 
Great majority, if not all of the reports of dripless shaft seals failing 
catastrophically are on boats where these seals were not properly maintained. 
Dripless is dripless (not a drop of water over 3 years; completely dry bilge). 
Any other solutions is _almost_ dripless. If you want a dry bilge, no other 
solution is as good (I am not trying to say that PYI is the only one). But the 
shaft seal is not the only source of water in the bilge, so keeping the bilge 
completely dry may not be possible. In that case, you have to pick your battles.

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 23:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

I would not change to a dripless stuffing box when a much simpler and safer 
option is available.as David said here before, repack your existing box 
with a quality product and you are virtually drip freeI did mine 6 years 
ago and it still doesn't drip...and I have checked and there is no heat on the 
prop shaft, stuffing box, etc.  I never worry about a catastrophic failure a 
PSS dripless stuffing box  can endure.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On Feb 16, 2018, at 9:05 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I 
just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any 
suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
through hull at the top of the transom.

Thanks,

Brien

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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Bruce;

 

My 38, Imzadi, came with a 16x10 ½ RH Martec prop when I bought her in 2003.
16x10 ½ was the prop recommended for my 15,000lb boat with a 36hp engine and
whatever gear reduction I have. I was quite pleased with the performance. It
would get hull speed (about 7.2 kn) at 2400 RPM and reach 3000 in a pinch.
It took me a month or two to learn the trick to reverse: Hit the throttle
high to unfold the prop (with moderate forward speed and moderate throttle,
the flow of water keeps the prop partly closed… so performance sucks), once
the boat is moving aft fast enough for flow over the rudder you shift into
neutral and steer with the rudder. I’ve been backing into my slips for 14
years and have only hit the dock a couple of times. BTW, the prop does give
a fair amount of prop walk.

 

My prop must have been near the end of its third life, because after a
couple of years one of the “ears” in the hub broke and I had to replace the
prop with a 2 blade fixed prop of the  same diameter and pitch. I found that
I lost about ½ knot of boat speed when sailing in light to moderate winds.

 

I bought a used Martec that was 17x10 and had Martec refurb it. I was
greatly over propped, and could barely get to 2000RPM. Also had a vibration
because the prop tips were too close to the bottom of the boat, I think.

 

I replaced that Martec prop with a Gori geared prop: Their recommended prop
is a 16 ½ x10 was still overpropped because of the blade profile, and
frankly, after 3 years of use, I was more satisfied with the Martec. When I
discussed the overprop situation with them while the boat was being painted
last winter, they said that the 10 pitch was the lowest they had in the 16 ½
diameter, and going to a smaller diameter would involve getting a whole new
propeller. At their suggestion I had a local shop trim 1/2'” from the tip of
each blade. It is better, but still not as good as the Martec.

 

You mention that your prop is 18x12, which seems like a lot of prop
depending on your engine max RPM and HP, gear reduction, and boat weight.
Before you spend money on reconditioning the prop, you might want to ask
Martec what prop diameter and pitch they recommend for your boat.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 8:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

 

Hello all,

 

I have a fixed, 3 bladed prop on Astralis currently, and suspect that its
slowing us down here in Florida where we just don’t get the wind like we did
on Lake Michigan, so we rarely see much over 12 kts or so.  I’m thinking I’d
like to get a little more speed out of her, and one area of improvement
could be the fixed prop.  

 

In the pile of old parts that the prior owner left us, I found an old, and
obviously used Martec Eliptec RH18DX12P-3, two blade folding prop (it is not
geared).  I have the blades and hub, but at the moment cannot find the
center pin.  It seems like Martec may still be in the business of repairing
these props.

 

I’ve read some of the various reviews, and I understand there are better
solutions out there, but clearly I’d be dropping a few boat bucks to pull it
off.  

 

Do any of you have direct experience with the Martec Eliptec, and can advise
me whether I’ll hate this thing from a performance or vibration point of
view if I get a pin and put it on the boat?  

 

I am OK with somewhat limited reverse, but would be anxious if I was giving
up a lot of forward power.  And, I really don’t want a lot of vibration,
especially if it’s going to do things like tear up the cutlass bearing.  

 

Thanks for your insights!  

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

 

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Stus-List USCG Salvaged 750 Boats in USVI, Puerto Rico

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Interesting story - 
https://www.npr.org/2018/02/16/585433277/coast-guard-reels-in-hundreds-of-sunken-and-cast-off-boats-in-virgin-islands
 


Cheers,
Randy___

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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

What “quality product” have you found success with?

Neil Andersen
1982 C 32
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List  on behalf of robert via CnC-List 

Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 11:10:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

I would not change to a dripless stuffing box when a much simpler and safer 
option is available.as David said here before, repack your existing box 
with a quality product and you are virtually drip freeI did mine 6 years 
ago and it still doesn't drip...and I have checked and there is no heat on the 
prop shaft, stuffing box, etc.  I never worry about a catastrophic failure a 
PSS dripless stuffing box  can endure.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On Feb 16, 2018, at 9:05 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I 
just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any 
suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
through hull at the top of the transom.

Thanks,

Brien


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Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[robert via CnC-List]

I would not change to a dripless stuffing box when a much simpler and 
safer option is available.as David said here before, repack your 
existing box with a quality product and you are virtually drip freeI 
did mine 6 years ago and it still doesn't drip...and I have checked and 
there is no heat on the prop shaft, stuffing box, etc.  I never worry 
about a catastrophic failure a PSS dripless stuffing box  can endure.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On Feb 16, 2018, at 9:05 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
> wrote:



Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the 
switch I just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line 
yet. Any suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to 
a very small through hull at the top of the transom.


Thanks,

Brien



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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Had one since 1986.  Replaced with a new one a few years ago. Works great.  
Joe.  Coquina

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 16, 2018, at 21:17, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I had  a PSS put in on my 34 thinking it was a good upgrade, but on my 34+ 
> decided not to do it.  The reason is that if not maintained properly, you can 
> have catastrophic failure of the PSS and sink the boat.  I replaced the 
> packing with teflon on my 34+ 3 years ago and it was pretty trivial, has not 
> been touched since and hardly even drips.  The worst that can happen is more 
> dripping and then you tighten the nuts.  I recommend against it.  Dave
> 
> 
>> On Feb 16, 2018, at 9:05 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I 
>> just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any 
>> suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
>> through hull at the top of the transom.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Brien
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

There's a good article about "Do it yourself" dripless shaft seal
installation in the February issue of BoatUS magazine, page 72.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rise City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 7:39 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> This is why I love this group, lots of great experience to draw on. I’m
> reconsidering switching based on the advice. I never heard about or thought
> about the catastrophic potential with the PSS. It’s also significantly less
> expensive to keep what I have and re-pack. Thanks again.
>
> Brien
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Brien Sadler via CnC-List]

This is why I love this group, lots of great experience to draw on. I’m 
reconsidering switching based on the advice. I never heard about or thought 
about the catastrophic potential with the PSS. It’s also significantly less 
expensive to keep what I have and re-pack. Thanks again. 

Brien


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Brien,

Have to share this. I don't know what the previous owner used in my 1990 shaft 
seal. It does leak slightly when I first launch and when running, but not after 
the engine stops. I've owned the boat fifteen years since 2002 and never 
tightened the packing. No, I won't take it apart.

I guess it is one of the newer packing materials.

> On February 16, 2018 at 9:05 PM Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
>
>
> Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I 
> just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any 
> suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
> through hull at the top of the transom.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

My two cents,

I had the Martec Folding Eliptic on our boat from 2002 to 2007. I had a few 
close calls when it wouldn't open. These may have been my inexperience with a 
large boat. It seemed like I needed to put it in reverse at four boat lengths 
from the dock to get it to stop reliably in my slip. I had many doubts about 
the folding prop at the time, but I've since learned better boathandling skills 
and learned to respect the design.

I did much research at the time and learned most racers use this prop because 
it has the least drag. My Martec prop was on it's last legs and well worn. To 
replace it, I chose a MaxProp two blade feathering prop. That was eleven years 
ago. I am happy with it, as it is quicker to deploy and stops quicker and the 
gearing maintains balance. I think it is more forgiving and reliable. I do 
align the coupling before a race so the blades are vertical, because of the 
angled shaft, that gives me the least drag. People who cruise more than race, 
buy the three blade version for better grip in bad weather. Our two blade (size 
determined by Pyacht) does lose grip in strong (twenty five knots plus) 
headwinds and boat speed suffers down to 5 or 4.5 knots.

I made blade alignment fairly easy on my 34R. I painted the coupling and 
transmission white, so you simply open the rear panel of the engine compartment 
and turn the coupling by hand until a black line on the coupling lines up with 
a black line on the transmission and the blades of the prop will be vertical. 
The friction of the wax seal holds it for the race or a long cruise.

In hindsight, if I had a healthy Martec Folding Eliptic, I would use it, and 
get the rebuilds, but when time came to replace it, I would probably do what I 
did before and get a geared feathering prop, especially if I planned to motor 
for long periods or cruise. The geared prop gives instant response but is 
slightly more drag and twice the cost, so maybe not for everyone.


> On February 16, 2018 at 1:25 PM Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I also have the original Martec Eliptic on my 38-3. No vibration, hull 
> speed at 2400 RPM, and in reverse, you have to think ahead. 
> 
> To align the blade, I installed a cheap fleabay car backup camera 
> connected to the video input of my chartplotter (Zeus Touch). With paint mark 
> on the tranny and cuppling, easy to align. It also give me view on the 
> engine, stuffing box and bilge when motoring for prolonged period.
> 
> 
> Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988
> 
> C WK, hull #76
> 
> 
> 
> Le ‎vendredi‎, ‎16‎ ‎février‎ ‎2018‎ ‎11‎:‎53‎:‎09‎ ‎Est, Gary Russell 
> via CnC-List  a écrit :
> 
> 
> I have to provide the dissenting opinion on the Martec prop.  Many years 
> ago, I had to make a quick stop when two kids in a dinghy came out of a 
> mooring field in front of me.  In order not to hit them I slammed the boat in 
> reverse.  Being not  geared, one of the blades did not open.  The resulting 
> imbalance ( at full power) bent the shaft severely.  The resulting 1/2" run 
> out created incredible vibration.  The shaft and prop had to be removed for 
> repair.  I would never use a folding prop that isn't geared.  I currently use 
> a 3 blade Flex-O-Fold prop which has very good reviews and I'm happy with it.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 9:54 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > My LF38 came with a 2 blade Martec Eliptec (LH18DX14P-3 1-1/8), and 
> > I agree with others that the performance is surprising good.   Yes I often 
> > forget/neglect to align the blades, and I have experienced the boat shake 
> > on a rare occasions.  Performance wise, forward to hull speed is no problem 
> > in flat water, but like others, I cruise at about 6.5 with a lower rpm 
> > (Yanmar 3QM30/Paragon/Walter-Vee).  With regards to backing/stopping, I 
> > have not hit anything (harder than willing) yet. I do get some starboard 
> > prop walk which I try to take advantage of, but it is nothing compared to 
> > the walk of my old 29Mk1 w/ a fixed 2 bladed prop. 
> > 
> > 
> > -
> > Paul E.
> > 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> > S/V Johanna Rose
> > Fort Walton Beach, FL
> > 
> > http://svjohannarose.blogspot. com/ 
> > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> > 
> > 
> > > > > On Feb 15, 2018, at 10:32 PM, 
> > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> > > 
> > > My Martec runs very smoothly with a couple small harmonics at 
> > > different
> > > rpm's.  That's normal for nearly all drive trains.
> > > 
> > > Forward power is good.  I think my prop is a wee bit 
> > > underpitched.  I can
> > > get hull speed with a 

Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have it for 3+ years. Installed it right after I bought this boat.

The vent line burps water, mainly when you switch reverse/forward quickly (like 
when docking). The harder you reverse, the more chance the water will burp 
inside.

Initially I tried to run it high, but there wasn't enough room in the engine 
room. Then I added a bottle. You can install a standard bicycle water bottle 
(and a holder). You can install a barb fitting in the top of the bottle and 
connect the vent line there. You will have to drain the water from the bottle 
every so often. I did not like the idea, so the next step was to plumb it into 
the sink drain. This is how it is now and it works well. You probably want to 
have it plumbed reasonably high under the sink and you want to have the vent 
line looping up from that T, so that any grey water coming from the sink cannot 
drain through the PSS.

My boat is different, so it may not work for you. In my case the under the sink 
cabinet is on the other side of a bulkhead from the engine (the overflow 
coolant tank is there, as well).

If you are installing the PSS, add the retention ring. It is worth the extra 
$30.

Marek


1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brien Sadler 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 21:05
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler 
Subject: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal


Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I 
just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any 
suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
through hull at the top of the transom.

Thanks,

Brien


Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I don't think you have to run it overboard.  It just has to get above the
water line on all angles of heel.  I didn't install mine so it isn't a
fresh memory but I believe mine runs into the engine compartment, through
the compartment roof and into the HVAC compartment under the companion way
stairs.  I can't recall how it is terminated.

I have a PYI (PSS) dripless seal now and generally like the engineering of
PYI products but I suggest that you consider the sailor sams last drop
seal.  I was quite impressed by the display at the boat show.  Of
particular interest as I recall was that instead of a rubber bellows which
could weaken the last drop seal uses ridged hose and a spring pack.  As I
recall, the carbon rings can also be replaced without having to pull the
prop shaft.

https://www.sailorsams.com/Lasdrop_DrySeal_Shaft_Seal

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Feb 16, 2018 9:06 PM, "Brien Sadler via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>
> Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch
> I just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any
> suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small
> through hull at the top of the transom.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I had  a PSS put in on my 34 thinking it was a good upgrade, but on my 34+ 
decided not to do it.  The reason is that if not maintained properly, you can 
have catastrophic failure of the PSS and sink the boat.  I replaced the packing 
with teflon on my 34+ 3 years ago and it was pretty trivial, has not been 
touched since and hardly even drips.  The worst that can happen is more 
dripping and then you tighten the nuts.  I recommend against it.  Dave


> On Feb 16, 2018, at 9:05 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I 
> just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any 
> suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
> through hull at the top of the transom.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brien
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Brien Sadler via CnC-List]

Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I 
just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any 
suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
through hull at the top of the transom.

Thanks,

Brien


Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[john sandford via CnC-List]

That is pretty/very smart.

Thinking outside the box.

I have wondered for a while on how to do the alignment without major cupboard 
removals to check the coupling.

You solved it.

This has been my major reason to stall on getting a folding prop.

Thank you

 

John

LF38

 

 

From: Pierre Tremblay [mailto:tremblay.pie...@yahoo.ca] 
Sent: February-16-18 2:25 PM
To: C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

 

I also have the original Martec Eliptic on my 38-3. No vibration, hull speed at 
2400 RPM, and in reverse, you have to think ahead. 

 

To align the blade, I installed a cheap fleabay car backup camera connected to 
the video input of my chartplotter (Zeus Touch). With paint mark on the tranny 
and cuppling, easy to align. It also give me view on the engine, stuffing box 
and bilge when motoring for prolonged period.

 

Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988

C WK, hull #76

 

 

Le ‎vendredi‎, ‎16‎ ‎février‎ ‎2018‎ ‎11‎:‎53‎:‎09‎ ‎Est, Gary Russell via 
CnC-List  a écrit : 

 

 

I have to provide the dissenting opinion on the Martec prop.  Many years ago, I 
had to make a quick stop when two kids in a dinghy came out of a mooring field 
in front of me.  In order not to hit them I slammed the boat in reverse.  Being 
not  geared, one of the blades did not open.  The resulting imbalance ( at full 
power) bent the shaft severely.  The resulting 1/2" run out created incredible 
vibration.  The shaft and prop had to be removed for repair.  I would never use 
a folding prop that isn't geared.  I currently use a 3 blade Flex-O-Fold prop 
which has very good reviews and I'm happy with it.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 9:54 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

My LF38 came with a 2 blade Martec Eliptec (LH18DX14P-3 1-1/8), and I agree 
with others that the performance is surprising good.   Yes I often 
forget/neglect to align the blades, and I have experienced the boat shake on a 
rare occasions.  Performance wise, forward to hull speed is no problem in flat 
water, but like others, I cruise at about 6.5 with a lower rpm (Yanmar 
3QM30/Paragon/Walter-Vee).  With regards to backing/stopping, I have not hit 
anything (harder than willing) yet. I do get some starboard prop walk which I 
try to take advantage of, but it is nothing compared to the walk of my old 
29Mk1 w/ a fixed 2 bladed prop. 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.   com/





On Feb 15, 2018, at 10:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

My Martec runs very smoothly with a couple small harmonics at different
rpm's.  That's normal for nearly all drive trains.

Forward power is good.  I think my prop is a wee bit underpitched.  I can
get hull speed with a clean bottom and max rpm but only 6.4-6.5 at cruise
rpm (80% max).

I really haven't had any issue with opening, closing, etc.  I think the
Martec is a good choice for folks who race and want minimal drag.  If my
use was only cruising, I'd probably have a different prop.

Dennis C.

 


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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/ 
  stumurray



 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List SOS Distress Light Bundle sale

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Nice find!

Fawcetts is having its big sale this weekend too.


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Wed, Feb 14, 2018 at 10:59 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:

> Over the weekend I noticed that my marine flares are about to expire.   I
> just went to the Defender site for an unrelated item and saw that Defender
> has a special going on for the Weems & Plath SOS Distress Light Bundle at
> $69.
>
> The bundle includes SOS distress light, daytime distress flag, and the
> Storm Safety whistle.  Usually the whistle is not included and the price
> for the light/flag combo no less than $99.   At this price, it seem like a
> no brainer to get the bundle.  The money spent on replacing standard flares
> will now go into getting and maintaining some SOLAS parachute flares.
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Large Helm Wheel

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck! 

 

OK, that’s strange, or I’m demented.  I just re-measured and the wheel shaft 
is, in fact 1”, the keyway is ¼”, and the hub width is 2 ½” (not 2 3/8”), but I 
would think close enough…

 

I swear I measured twice the last time!  

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 2:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Large Helm Wheel

 

Bruce,

While the wheel is made by Edson, this aluminum Diamond Series wheel may not be 
a direct replacement for Steel Destroyer wheels.  The majority of Destroyer 
Wheels fit a wheel shaft 1” diameter, 1/4” key and a hub width of 2 3/8”.  From 
2001 and later, Edson switched to a tapered wheel shaft with a through shaft 
wheel brake.

Check the specs on this wheel as many boats with oversized wheels had special 
steering shafts custom made for the boat.  This wheel would fit an early model 
J120 or J105 though...

Chuck Gilchrest 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 16, 2018, at 1:34 PM, Bruce via CnC-List  > wrote:

Hello all,

 

Despite some of the folks recommendations, I have to face the fact that my wife 
does not want the large steering wheel on Astralis.  As cruisers, the idea of a 
wheel that takes extra contortions to walk around is just not attractive to her 
(or to me, to be honest), especially when we intend to use the boat for fun but 
fast coastal cruising with a goal of eventual Caribbean cruising.  Since 
finally installing the autopilot over the holiday break, I already find myself 
spending less and less time at the helm.

 

So, our large wheel is now available.   It is 54” across, aluminum, and has a 
standard Edson 1.5” hub with keyway slot.  

 

Here’s some photos:

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8e8vu33an0i4716/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%2C%20Other%20Side.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/anyk7z1je52hbrk/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/966m408hwz00tfe/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%20Center.jpg?dl=0

 

It is quite light (probably less than 5 lbs.) but large enough that shipping 
may be a tad pricey.

 

Those who are interested, please feel free to drop me a note offline.

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Large Helm Wheel

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Bruce,
While the wheel is made by Edson, this aluminum Diamond Series wheel may not be 
a direct replacement for Steel Destroyer wheels.  The majority of Destroyer 
Wheels fit a wheel shaft 1” diameter, 1/4” key and a hub width of 2 3/8”.  From 
2001 and later, Edson switched to a tapered wheel shaft with a through shaft 
wheel brake.
Check the specs on this wheel as many boats with oversized wheels had special 
steering shafts custom made for the boat.  This wheel would fit an early model 
J120 or J105 though...
Chuck Gilchrest 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 16, 2018, at 1:34 PM, Bruce via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
>  
> Despite some of the folks recommendations, I have to face the fact that my 
> wife does not want the large steering wheel on Astralis.  As cruisers, the 
> idea of a wheel that takes extra contortions to walk around is just not 
> attractive to her (or to me, to be honest), especially when we intend to use 
> the boat for fun but fast coastal cruising with a goal of eventual Caribbean 
> cruising.  Since finally installing the autopilot over the holiday break, I 
> already find myself spending less and less time at the helm.
>  
> So, our large wheel is now available.   It is 54” across, aluminum, and has a 
> standard Edson 1.5” hub with keyway slot. 
>  
> Here’s some photos:
>  
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/8e8vu33an0i4716/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%2C%20Other%20Side.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/anyk7z1je52hbrk/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/966m408hwz00tfe/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%20Center.jpg?dl=0
>  
> It is quite light (probably less than 5 lbs.) but large enough that shipping 
> may be a tad pricey.
>  
> Those who are interested, please feel free to drop me a note offline.
>  
> Kindest Regards,
>  
> Bruce C. Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”
> Madeira Beach, FL
> 847.404.5092
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Because Dennis Said so...

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 I just received my order of the 1/2 inch wick material like Dennis suggested, 
so I'm ready to have a nice clean hull this summer!

 Thanks Dennis!


Richard
 


Richard
s/v Busdhmark4; 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River; (which is rising fast, approaching 
flood conditions)

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

--



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hard bimini; wheel size

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

We solved the wheel size issue by getting a folding Wheel; it has worked so 
well that I have kept it through three boats! Its a 40 inch wheel, which isn't 
huge, but it does allow the helms person to sit outboard and steer; yet we have 
plenty of room to walk around the wheel when at dock.

 

 


Richard
s/v Busdhmakr4; 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River; (which is rising fast, approaching 
flood conditions)

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bruce via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: bwhitmore 
Sent: Fri, Feb 16, 2018 1:21 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?



Hi Josh,
 
That certainly explains a lot, especially with the added complication of the 
large wheel.  I can certainly see how having a big wheel would require you to 
cross the seats, and make higher head room a priority.  
 
Our boat also came with a large wheel, but the prior owner was kind enough to 
give us the original standard wheel as well.  My wife has made it abundantly 
clear that she doesn’t want the big wheel on the boat, especially since we use 
the boat for cruising (coastal for now) with a lot of it on autopilot.  So, a 
higher bimini won’t be a priority for us.
 
I know some folks here are interested in our larger wheel, so I will post about 
it’s availability next.
 
Kindest Regards,
 
Bruce C. Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”
Madeira Beach, FL
847.404.5092
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 5:54 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?
 

Bruce,

 

It might have started with the original dodger which was considerably harder to 
see around/through.  Any dodger has to be high to allow head room due to the 
elevated companionway.  The previous dodger was more aesthetic but less 
functional.  This dodger provides good shade and protection while not impeding 
entry or winch usage.  These windows are a hard glass and stay clearer with 
less distortion and have a very minimal fabric frame.   It is not uncommon for 
us to sit on the hump in a squatted position with our feet on the forward 
corners of the aft locker lids.  When things get spicy we are already in a 
position to brace and if a better vantage is required then it is just the act 
of standing up.  The steering wheel is pretty large and in order to get forward 
of it, it is typical for us to stand on the aft and side benches to walk around.

 

IIRC one of the other 37+ owners shared our sentiments.  Maybe it was Brian Fry.

 

Josh

 

 

 

On Feb 15, 2018 11:34 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List"  
wrote:


We've never felt that need.  Just curious, did that tendency arise after you 
put on the Dodger or is it because of the dodger you want night to improve your 
field of view?

 

Thanks for all your insights,


 

Bruce Whitmore  

 

 

 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


 



 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  


Date: 2/15/18 10:58 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List  

Cc: Josh Muckley  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini? 

 



Both my wife and I prefer the vantage and the bench corners tend to provide a 
more sturdy foot hold.

 

Josh


 

On Feb 15, 2018 10:32 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List"  
wrote:


Just curious Josh, whu do you stand on the benches?

 

Bruce Whitmore 

 

 

 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


 


 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  

Date: 2/15/18 9:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List  

Cc: Josh Muckley  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini? 

 


The pictures in this link are my brain storming image mock ups.  I stand on the 
benches constantly so having head room is extremely important.  Of course with 
head room means boom interference.  My imagination is that the bimini extends 
behind the cockpit in a reflection of the reverse transom.

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwNze1nnSQ2-fktxdFRDXzRFQWl3SEVSRmpSaDY2YkVIMEEyeHdKUHJNNWFfeU9DQnoyMHc

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 


 

On Feb 14, 2018 11:46 AM, "Bruce via CnC-List"  wrote:


I should know more in the not too distant future.  Hard-to-Top is sending me 
sample material, and if I like it, I think I’ll move forward with it in the 
next 30 days or so.
 
I’ll keep everyone posted,
 
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ “Astralis”
Madeira Beach, FL
847.404.5092
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2018 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hard bimini; wheel size

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

We solved the wheel size issue by getting a folding Wheel; it has worked so 
well that I have kept it through three boats! Its a 40 inch wheel, which isn't 
huge, but it does allow the helms person to sit outboard and steer...;

 

 


Richard
s/v Busdhmakr4; 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River; (which is rising fast, approaching 
flood conditions)

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bruce via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: bwhitmore 
Sent: Fri, Feb 16, 2018 1:21 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?



Hi Josh,
 
That certainly explains a lot, especially with the added complication of the 
large wheel.  I can certainly see how having a big wheel would require you to 
cross the seats, and make higher head room a priority.  
 
Our boat also came with a large wheel, but the prior owner was kind enough to 
give us the original standard wheel as well.  My wife has made it abundantly 
clear that she doesn’t want the big wheel on the boat, especially since we use 
the boat for cruising (coastal for now) with a lot of it on autopilot.  So, a 
higher bimini won’t be a priority for us.
 
I know some folks here are interested in our larger wheel, so I will post about 
it’s availability next.
 
Kindest Regards,
 
Bruce C. Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”
Madeira Beach, FL
847.404.5092
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 5:54 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?
 

Bruce,

 

It might have started with the original dodger which was considerably harder to 
see around/through.  Any dodger has to be high to allow head room due to the 
elevated companionway.  The previous dodger was more aesthetic but less 
functional.  This dodger provides good shade and protection while not impeding 
entry or winch usage.  These windows are a hard glass and stay clearer with 
less distortion and have a very minimal fabric frame.   It is not uncommon for 
us to sit on the hump in a squatted position with our feet on the forward 
corners of the aft locker lids.  When things get spicy we are already in a 
position to brace and if a better vantage is required then it is just the act 
of standing up.  The steering wheel is pretty large and in order to get forward 
of it, it is typical for us to stand on the aft and side benches to walk around.

 

IIRC one of the other 37+ owners shared our sentiments.  Maybe it was Brian Fry.

 

Josh

 

 

 

On Feb 15, 2018 11:34 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List"  
wrote:


We've never felt that need.  Just curious, did that tendency arise after you 
put on the Dodger or is it because of the dodger you want night to improve your 
field of view?

 

Thanks for all your insights,


 

Bruce Whitmore  

 

 

 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


 



 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  


Date: 2/15/18 10:58 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List  

Cc: Josh Muckley  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini? 

 



Both my wife and I prefer the vantage and the bench corners tend to provide a 
more sturdy foot hold.

 

Josh


 

On Feb 15, 2018 10:32 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List"  
wrote:


Just curious Josh, whu do you stand on the benches?

 

Bruce Whitmore 

 

 

 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


 


 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  

Date: 2/15/18 9:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List  

Cc: Josh Muckley  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini? 

 


The pictures in this link are my brain storming image mock ups.  I stand on the 
benches constantly so having head room is extremely important.  Of course with 
head room means boom interference.  My imagination is that the bimini extends 
behind the cockpit in a reflection of the reverse transom.

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwNze1nnSQ2-fktxdFRDXzRFQWl3SEVSRmpSaDY2YkVIMEEyeHdKUHJNNWFfeU9DQnoyMHc

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 


 

On Feb 14, 2018 11:46 AM, "Bruce via CnC-List"  wrote:


I should know more in the not too distant future.  Hard-to-Top is sending me 
sample material, and if I like it, I think I’ll move forward with it in the 
next 30 days or so.
 
I’ll keep everyone posted,
 
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ “Astralis”
Madeira Beach, FL
847.404.5092
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2018 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: 

Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Our boat came with the small wheel and I had the ask the PO for the big
one.  He hated it and was shocked when I wanted it.  I prefer our big wheel
so that I can steer from the low side of the boat.  Everything is a
compromise...

On Fri, Feb 16, 2018, 1:21 PM Bruce via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>
>
>
> That certainly explains a lot, especially with the added complication of
> the large wheel.  I can certainly see how having a big wheel would require
> you to cross the seats, and make higher head room a priority.
>
>
>
> Our boat also came with a large wheel, but the prior owner was kind enough
> to give us the original standard wheel as well.  My wife has made it
> abundantly clear that she doesn’t want the big wheel on the boat,
> especially since we use the boat for cruising (coastal for now) with a lot
> of it on autopilot.  So, a higher bimini won’t be a priority for us.
>
>
>
> I know some folks here are interested in our larger wheel, so I will post
> about it’s availability next.
>
>
>
> Kindest Regards,
>
>
>
> Bruce C. Whitmore
>
> 1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”
>
> Madeira Beach, FL
>
> 847.404.5092
>
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, February 16, 2018 5:54 AM
>
>
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?
>
>
>
> Bruce,
>
>
>
> It might have started with the original dodger which was considerably
> harder to see around/through.  Any dodger has to be high to allow head room
> due to the elevated companionway.  The previous dodger was more aesthetic
> but less functional.  This dodger provides good shade and protection while
> not impeding entry or winch usage.  These windows are a hard glass and stay
> clearer with less distortion and have a very minimal fabric frame.   It is
> not uncommon for us to sit on the hump in a squatted position with our feet
> on the forward corners of the aft locker lids.  When things get spicy we
> are already in a position to brace and if a better vantage is required then
> it is just the act of standing up.  The steering wheel is pretty large and
> in order to get forward of it, it is typical for us to stand on the aft and
> side benches to walk around.
>
>
>
> IIRC one of the other 37+ owners shared our sentiments.  Maybe it was
> Brian Fry.
>
>
>
> Josh
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 15, 2018 11:34 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> We've never felt that need.  Just curious, did that tendency arise after
> you put on the Dodger or is it because of the dodger you want night to
> improve your field of view?
>
>
>
> Thanks for all your insights,
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 2/15/18 10:58 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: C List 
>
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?
>
>
>
> Both my wife and I prefer the vantage and the bench corners tend to
> provide a more sturdy foot hold.
>
>
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Feb 15, 2018 10:32 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Just curious Josh, whu do you stand on the benches?
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 2/15/18 9:59 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: C List 
>
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?
>
>
>
> The pictures in this link are my brain storming image mock ups.  I stand
> on the benches constantly so having head room is extremely important.  Of
> course with head room means boom interference.  My imagination is that the
> bimini extends behind the cockpit in a reflection of the reverse transom.
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwNze1nnSQ2-fktxdFRDXzRFQWl3SEVSRmpSaDY2YkVIMEEyeHdKUHJNNWFfeU9DQnoyMHc
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Feb 14, 2018 11:46 AM, "Bruce via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> I should know more in the not too distant future.  Hard-to-Top is sending
> me sample material, and if I like it, I think I’ll move forward with it in
> the next 30 days or so.
>
>
>
> I’ll keep everyone posted,
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> 1994 C 37/40+ “Astralis”
>
> Madeira Beach, FL
>
> 847.404.5092 <(847)%20404-5092>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Della
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 14, 2018 9:25 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?
>
>
>
>
>
> I too am interested in this, my Bimini needs a 

Stus-List Large Helm Wheel

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Hello all,

 

Despite some of the folks recommendations, I have to face the fact that my
wife does not want the large steering wheel on Astralis.  As cruisers, the
idea of a wheel that takes extra contortions to walk around is just not
attractive to her (or to me, to be honest), especially when we intend to use
the boat for fun but fast coastal cruising with a goal of eventual Caribbean
cruising.  Since finally installing the autopilot over the holiday break, I
already find myself spending less and less time at the helm.

 

So, our large wheel is now available.   It is 54" across, aluminum, and has
a standard Edson 1.5" hub with keyway slot.  

 

Here's some photos:

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8e8vu33an0i4716/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%2C%20Othe
r%20Side.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/anyk7z1je52hbrk/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/966m408hwz00tfe/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%20Center.
jpg?dl=0

 

It is quite light (probably less than 5 lbs.) but large enough that shipping
may be a tad pricey.

 

Those who are interested, please feel free to drop me a note offline.

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

I also have the original Martec Eliptic on my 38-3. No vibration, hull speed at 
2400 RPM, and in reverse, you have to think ahead. 
To align the blade, I installed a cheap fleabay car backup camera connected to 
the video input of my chartplotter (Zeus Touch). With paint mark on the tranny 
and cuppling, easy to align. It also give me view on the engine, stuffing box 
and bilge when motoring for prolonged period.


Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988

C WK, hull #76
 

Le ‎vendredi‎, ‎16‎ ‎février‎ ‎2018‎ ‎11‎:‎53‎:‎09‎ ‎Est, Gary Russell via 
CnC-List  a écrit :  
 
 I have to provide the dissenting opinion on the Martec prop.  Many years ago, 
I had to make a quick stop when two kids in a dinghy came out of a mooring 
field in front of me.  In order not to hit them I slammed the boat in reverse.  
Being not  geared, one of the blades did not open.  The resulting imbalance ( 
at full power) bent the shaft severely.  The resulting 1/2" run out created 
incredible vibration.  The shaft and prop had to be removed for repair.  I 
would never use a folding prop that isn't geared.  I currently use a 3 blade 
Flex-O-Fold prop which has very good reviews and I'm happy with it.
GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 9:54 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
wrote:


My LF38 came with a 2 blade Martec Eliptec (LH18DX14P-3 1-1/8), and I agree 
with others that the performance is surprising good.   Yes I often 
forget/neglect to align the blades, and I have experienced the boat shake on a 
rare occasions.  Performance wise, forward to hull speed is no problem in flat 
water, but like others, I cruise at about 6.5 with a lower rpm (Yanmar 
3QM30/Paragon/Walter-Vee).  With regards to backing/stopping, I have not hit 
anything (harder than willing) yet. I do get some starboard prop walk which I 
try to take advantage of, but it is nothing compared to the walk of my old 
29Mk1 w/ a fixed 2 bladed prop. 

-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot. com/

On Feb 15, 2018, at 10:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
My Martec runs very smoothly with a couple small harmonics at different
rpm's.  That's normal for nearly all drive trains.

Forward power is good.  I think my prop is a wee bit underpitched.  I can
get hull speed with a clean bottom and max rpm but only 6.4-6.5 at cruise
rpm (80% max).

I really haven't had any issue with opening, closing, etc.  I think the
Martec is a good choice for folks who race and want minimal drag.  If my
use was only cruising, I'd probably have a different prop.

Dennis C.



__ _

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  ___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

 

That certainly explains a lot, especially with the added complication of the 
large wheel.  I can certainly see how having a big wheel would require you to 
cross the seats, and make higher head room a priority.  

 

Our boat also came with a large wheel, but the prior owner was kind enough to 
give us the original standard wheel as well.  My wife has made it abundantly 
clear that she doesn’t want the big wheel on the boat, especially since we use 
the boat for cruising (coastal for now) with a lot of it on autopilot.  So, a 
higher bimini won’t be a priority for us.

 

I know some folks here are interested in our larger wheel, so I will post about 
it’s availability next.

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 5:54 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

 

Bruce,

 

It might have started with the original dodger which was considerably harder to 
see around/through.  Any dodger has to be high to allow head room due to the 
elevated companionway.  The previous dodger was more aesthetic but less 
functional.  This dodger provides good shade and protection while not impeding 
entry or winch usage.  These windows are a hard glass and stay clearer with 
less distortion and have a very minimal fabric frame.   It is not uncommon for 
us to sit on the hump in a squatted position with our feet on the forward 
corners of the aft locker lids.  When things get spicy we are already in a 
position to brace and if a better vantage is required then it is just the act 
of standing up.  The steering wheel is pretty large and in order to get forward 
of it, it is typical for us to stand on the aft and side benches to walk around.

 

IIRC one of the other 37+ owners shared our sentiments.  Maybe it was Brian Fry.

 

Josh

 

 

 

On Feb 15, 2018 11:34 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List"  > wrote:

We've never felt that need.  Just curious, did that tendency arise after you 
put on the Dodger or is it because of the dodger you want night to improve your 
field of view?

 

Thanks for all your insights,

 

Bruce Whitmore  

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > 

Date: 2/15/18 10:58 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List  > 

Cc: Josh Muckley  > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini? 

 

Both my wife and I prefer the vantage and the bench corners tend to provide a 
more sturdy foot hold.

 

Josh

 

On Feb 15, 2018 10:32 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List"  > wrote:

Just curious Josh, whu do you stand on the benches?

 

Bruce Whitmore 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > 

Date: 2/15/18 9:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List  > 

Cc: Josh Muckley  > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini? 

 

The pictures in this link are my brain storming image mock ups.  I stand on the 
benches constantly so having head room is extremely important.  Of course with 
head room means boom interference.  My imagination is that the bimini extends 
behind the cockpit in a reflection of the reverse transom.

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwNze1nnSQ2-fktxdFRDXzRFQWl3SEVSRmpSaDY2YkVIMEEyeHdKUHJNNWFfeU9DQnoyMHc

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Feb 14, 2018 11:46 AM, "Bruce via CnC-List"  > wrote:

I should know more in the not too distant future.  Hard-to-Top is sending me 
sample material, and if I like it, I think I’ll move forward with it in the 
next 30 days or so.

 

I’ll keep everyone posted,

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+ “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2018 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Della Barba, Joe  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

 

 

I too am interested in this, my Bimini needs a lot of stitching right now :(

Google-Fu shows some creative cheap solutions. Maryland watermen never met an 
old piece of plywood they couldn’t nail onto a crab boat for 

Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Gary, that is good, hands-on, experienced insight.  

 

Thank you!

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 11:52 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

 

I have to provide the dissenting opinion on the Martec prop.  Many years ago, I 
had to make a quick stop when two kids in a dinghy came out of a mooring field 
in front of me.  In order not to hit them I slammed the boat in reverse.  Being 
not  geared, one of the blades did not open.  The resulting imbalance ( at full 
power) bent the shaft severely.  The resulting 1/2" run out created incredible 
vibration.  The shaft and prop had to be removed for repair.  I would never use 
a folding prop that isn't geared.  I currently use a 3 blade Flex-O-Fold prop 
which has very good reviews and I'm happy with it.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 9:54 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

My LF38 came with a 2 blade Martec Eliptec (LH18DX14P-3 1-1/8), and I agree 
with others that the performance is surprising good.   Yes I often 
forget/neglect to align the blades, and I have experienced the boat shake on a 
rare occasions.  Performance wise, forward to hull speed is no problem in flat 
water, but like others, I cruise at about 6.5 with a lower rpm (Yanmar 
3QM30/Paragon/Walter-Vee).  With regards to backing/stopping, I have not hit 
anything (harder than willing) yet. I do get some starboard prop walk which I 
try to take advantage of, but it is nothing compared to the walk of my old 
29Mk1 w/ a fixed 2 bladed prop. 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





On Feb 15, 2018, at 10:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:

 

My Martec runs very smoothly with a couple small harmonics at different
rpm's.  That's normal for nearly all drive trains.

Forward power is good.  I think my prop is a wee bit underpitched.  I can
get hull speed with a clean bottom and max rpm but only 6.4-6.5 at cruise
rpm (80% max).

I really haven't had any issue with opening, closing, etc.  I think the
Martec is a good choice for folks who race and want minimal drag.  If my
use was only cruising, I'd probably have a different prop.

Dennis C.

 


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I have to provide the dissenting opinion on the Martec prop.  Many years
ago, I had to make a quick stop when two kids in a dinghy came out of a
mooring field in front of me.  In order not to hit them I slammed the boat
in reverse.  Being not  geared, one of the blades did not open.  The
resulting imbalance ( at full power) bent the shaft severely.  The
resulting 1/2" run out created incredible vibration.  The shaft and prop
had to be removed for repair.  I would never use a folding prop that isn't
geared.  I currently use a 3 blade Flex-O-Fold prop which has very good
reviews and I'm happy with it.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 9:54 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> My LF38 came with a 2 blade Martec Eliptec (LH18DX14P-3 1-1/8), and I
> agree with others that the performance is surprising good.   Yes I often
> forget/neglect to align the blades, and I have experienced the boat shake
> on a rare occasions.  Performance wise, forward to hull speed is no problem
> in flat water, but like others, I cruise at about 6.5 with a lower rpm
> (Yanmar 3QM30/Paragon/Walter-Vee).  With regards to backing/stopping, I
> have not hit anything (harder than willing) yet. I do get some starboard
> prop walk which I try to take advantage of, but it is nothing compared to
> the walk of my old 29Mk1 w/ a fixed 2 bladed prop.
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Feb 15, 2018, at 10:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> My Martec runs very smoothly with a couple small harmonics at different
> rpm's.  That's normal for nearly all drive trains.
>
> Forward power is good.  I think my prop is a wee bit underpitched.  I can
> get hull speed with a clean bottom and max rpm but only 6.4-6.5 at cruise
> rpm (80% max).
>
> I really haven't had any issue with opening, closing, etc.  I think the
> Martec is a good choice for folks who race and want minimal drag.  If my
> use was only cruising, I'd probably have a different prop.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

My LF38 came with a 2 blade Martec Eliptec (LH18DX14P-3 1-1/8), and I agree 
with others that the performance is surprising good.   Yes I often 
forget/neglect to align the blades, and I have experienced the boat shake on a 
rare occasions.  Performance wise, forward to hull speed is no problem in flat 
water, but like others, I cruise at about 6.5 with a lower rpm (Yanmar 
3QM30/Paragon/Walter-Vee).  With regards to backing/stopping, I have not hit 
anything (harder than willing) yet. I do get some starboard prop walk which I 
try to take advantage of, but it is nothing compared to the walk of my old 
29Mk1 w/ a fixed 2 bladed prop. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 15, 2018, at 10:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> My Martec runs very smoothly with a couple small harmonics at different
> rpm's.  That's normal for nearly all drive trains.
> 
> Forward power is good.  I think my prop is a wee bit underpitched.  I can
> get hull speed with a clean bottom and max rpm but only 6.4-6.5 at cruise
> rpm (80% max).
> 
> I really haven't had any issue with opening, closing, etc.  I think the
> Martec is a good choice for folks who race and want minimal drag.  If my
> use was only cruising, I'd probably have a different prop.
> 
> Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I have two kids in expensive colleges and two more on deck.  There’s no way I 
could have afforded our boat if it had retained anything near its original 
value over a 40-year period.

Besides, if all had new boats, we wouldn’t need this list.

From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 11:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price

Well, I paid about 20% fewer dollars in 2016, for both boat and trailer, than 
the first purchaser paid in 1972 for the boat alone - not even considering the 
difference in purchasing power between a 1972 dollar and a 2016 dollar. 

I agree with you that what gets inflated is the money supply - the number of 
dollars in circulation. It takes six more dollars in 2016 to buy the same thing 
you could get in 1972 with one dollar; the purchasing power of a 1972 dollar 
was six times that of a 2016 dollar.

If my boat had held 100% of its original value, and cost $120,000 in 2016 
dollars due to inflation of the money supply over 44 years and lower purchasing 
power of a 2016 dollar compared to a 1972 dollar, I sure as hell couldn’t have 
afforded it :)

Cheers,
Randy



  On Feb 15, 2018, at 4:40 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I'd kind of disagree...

  Technically, boat didn't depreciate very much.  It inflation that's taking 
down the value of today's dollars.

  Depreciation is the reduction in $ value over time, and from a tax writeoff 
perspective, a $20,000 asset owned by a business would be written off over a 
specified period of time, presumably to the point it would be worth $0.  


  Its just that $20,000 won't buy you a new sailboat any longer!   


  Bruce Whitmore

  (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net





--
  From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list  
  Cc: Randy Stafford ; Patrick Davin 

  Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 6:08 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price


  According to C brochures that came with Grenadine, the C 30 MK I base 
price as at September 13, 1976 was $27,200.  As at September 1, 1977 it had 
increased to $30,450. 

  I don’t have information on how much her first owner paid for her in 1972.  
I’d guess ~$20,000 if the base price tracked with inflation.  That’s ~$120,000 
in today’s dollars.  And I bought the boat (and its trailer) for $16,500 two 
years ago.  Poor thing obviously depreciated a lot.

  Cheers,
  Randy Stafford
  S/V Grenadine
  C 30-1 #7
  Ken Caryl, CO



On Feb 15, 2018, at 3:14 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Wow. That's $123,000 in today's dollars. (20k in 1971 = 123k today). 
Important to compare real values, not nominal values - inflation over 47 years 
is very significant!  Still not bad, a 35' production boat today goes a bit 
more than that I think. 


Would be interesting if anyone has a 1980's number. The 70's after about 
'73 had massive inflation - 
https://www.investopedia.com/articles/economics/09/1970s-great-inflation.asp


Dennis I suspect the note to not install genoa winches is because the owner 
wanted a particular placement of them (the line after that says "put in the 
boat loose w/ fastenings"). 

-Patrick
'84 LF38

On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 1:59 PM,  wrote: 

  -- Forwarded message --
  From: "Dennis C." 
  To: CnClist 
  Cc: 
  Bcc: 
  Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2018 14:23:01 -0600
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price

  Paul, 

  Doesn't answer your post but below is a link to Touche's original 1971 
order from the yacht broker to Hinterhoeller.  Shows a base price of $18,760 
with $872 worth of options.  A Landfall 10 years later would have been a wee 
bit more.

  Interesting note on Page 2, Item 81.  "DO NOT install genoa sheet winches 
or cleats."  Never have figured that one out.

  https://drive.google.com/open? id= 1y6lBr8452ciJtkdrVQ2OLIKTbJAuF gb5

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA




  On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 11:15 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi, 

I was asked a question about the Landfall 38 original list price, and  
I realized I had no clue.   Does anyone know what they were original going for 
in 1981 or thereabouts?



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot. com/


__ _

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 

Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

FWIW, I finally bit the bullet last year and went to a geared 2-blade 
Flex-o-fold.  The power (forward and reverse) seems to be about the same.  I 
suspect that when it’s folded, the drag is comparable to the old 2-blade Martec 
folding prop when we remembered to align it.  Significant differences are: 1) 
we no longer need to remember to align the prop; and 2) if (when) we forget, we 
don’t run the risk of the increased drag of one blade hanging down; and 3) I no 
longer experience the “boat shake” when I put the engine in gear and only one 
blade opens up.  Anyone with an older Martec knows what I’m talking about.

Overall, I’m pleased with this upgrade.

From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 7:08 AM
To: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

Bruce, 

For reasons that have been lost in distant memory I have a new pin for an 
original Martec, non-geared, two-blade elliptical. Don’t know the size or if it 
will fit your model but if I can find it (that’s the hard part…) it’s yours.

Because I sent ours back to Martec for refurbishment years ago and they told me 
that it non-repairable in the future (must be on its 3rd life…) I will be 
replacing it when my “hobby” is ready to go back into the water.

I am in full alignment with Dennis. I love the two-blade folding prop. Forward 
gave me all the push I needed and once you figure out the necessity of getting 
the blades fully opened in reverse it was easy to back down.

I plan on replacing it with something similar.

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit


  On Feb 15, 2018, at 9:27 PM, Bruce via CnC-List  wrote:

  Well, thankfully (or not) I found the pin, which is a good thing, except that 
it was clearly broken during the removal process.  At least I have something to 
measure.  The pin is really pretty tight in one blade, but a little sloppy on 
the other, so yes, it will need to be refurbished.  
   
  Interestingly, I can get to my prop shaft very easily by removing an 
inspection panel in the cabin sole, so aligning the prop  will be no big deal 
at all.
   
  How do you feel about vibration (presumably the refurbishment would take care 
of a lot of the potential problems) and forward power?
   
  Kindest Regards,
   
  Bruce C. Whitmore
  1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”
  Madeira Beach, FL
  847.404.5092
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
   
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 9:02 PM
  To: CnClist 
  Cc: Dennis C. 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?
   
  Bruce,
   
  You're not going to get a lot of positive comments about Martec props on this 
list.  You'll get a lot of suggestions about this prop and that prop.
   
  Having said that, I have a Martec Elliptical on Touche'.  While it might not 
be everyone's favorite, I don't have any problems with it.  Sure, I have to 
drop down into a cockpit locker to align it before a race or a long sail but 
that's the nature of non-geared folding props.
   
  As for rev erse, I back into my home slip without any issue at all.  Just 
need a bit of practice and anticipation and you'll be good to go (or back up).
   
  I've dealt with Martec a couple times and found them to be fairly responsive. 
 They should be able to send you whatever parts you need.  
   
  One thing to be aware of with Martec props.  They have 3 "lives".  With use, 
the pin holes in the blades will begin to wallow out and the blades will start 
to become loose on the pin.  The fix is to return the prop to Martec where they 
will, for a price, recondition it.  Part of the reconditioning process is to 
re-bore the hub and blades for a larger pin.  You can only do this twice.  
Hence the 3 lives, the original life plus 2 rebuilds.
   
  So, before you send the prop to Martec for reconditioning, measure the pin 
diameter and call them to see how many lives it has left.
   
  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA
   
  On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 7:28 PM, Bruce via CnC-List  
wrote:




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Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Paul

When we installed the i50/i60 in 2014 we had to buy some networking components 
to connect them properly for TWS etc...  These networking pieces did not come 
in the system pack with our wind/speed/depth instruments.

Likely Fred can explain what is needed and why.  I am still surprised that 
everything needed was not included in the pack

Mike
 
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 8:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

Hello,
Does anyone have tips or suggestions on installation of an i50/i60 system pack. 
I'm replacing a DataMarine Link 5000 system. 
Thanks

Paul Saxton
Boomerang
C 29 Mk 1
Toronto, ON

Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hello,
Does anyone have tips or suggestions on installation of an i50/i60 system pack. 
I'm replacing a DataMarine Link 5000 system. 
Thanks

Paul Saxton
Boomerang
C 29 Mk 1
Toronto, ON

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Bruce,

For reasons that have been lost in distant memory I have a new pin for an 
original Martec, non-geared, two-blade elliptical. Don’t know the size or if it 
will fit your model but if I can find it (that’s the hard part…) it’s yours.

Because I sent ours back to Martec for refurbishment years ago and they told me 
that it non-repairable in the future (must be on its 3rd life…) I will be 
replacing it when my “hobby” is ready to go back into the water.

I am in full alignment with Dennis. I love the two-blade folding prop. Forward 
gave me all the push I needed and once you figure out the necessity of getting 
the blades fully opened in reverse it was easy to back down.

I plan on replacing it with something similar.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Feb 15, 2018, at 9:27 PM, Bruce via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Well, thankfully (or not) I found the pin, which is a good thing, except that 
> it was clearly broken during the removal process.  At least I have something 
> to measure.  The pin is really pretty tight in one blade, but a little sloppy 
> on the other, so yes, it will need to be refurbished.  
>  
> Interestingly, I can get to my prop shaft very easily by removing an 
> inspection panel in the cabin sole, so aligning the prop  will be no big deal 
> at all.
>  
> How do you feel about vibration (presumably the refurbishment would take care 
> of a lot of the potential problems) and forward power?
>  
> Kindest Regards,
>  
> Bruce C. Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”
> Madeira Beach, FL
> 847.404.5092
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 9:02 PM
> To: CnClist >
> Cc: Dennis C. >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?
>  
> Bruce,
>  
> You're not going to get a lot of positive comments about Martec props on this 
> list.  You'll get a lot of suggestions about this prop and that prop.
>  
> Having said that, I have a Martec Elliptical on Touche'.  While it might not 
> be everyone's favorite, I don't have any problems with it.  Sure, I have to 
> drop down into a cockpit locker to align it before a race or a long sail but 
> that's the nature of non-geared folding props.
>  
> As for rev erse, I back into my home slip without any issue at all.  Just 
> need a bit of practice and anticipation and you'll be good to go (or back up).
>  
> I've dealt with Martec a couple times and found them to be fairly responsive. 
>  They should be able to send you whatever parts you need.  
>  
> One thing to be aware of with Martec props.  They have 3 "lives".  With use, 
> the pin holes in the blades will begin to wallow out and the blades will 
> start to become loose on the pin.  The fix is to return the prop to Martec 
> where they will, for a price, recondition it.  Part of the reconditioning 
> process is to re-bore the hub and blades for a larger pin.  You can only do 
> this twice.  Hence the 3 lives, the original life plus 2 rebuilds.
>  
> So, before you send the prop to Martec for reconditioning, measure the pin 
> diameter and call them to see how many lives it has left.
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 7:28 PM, Bruce via CnC-List  > wrote:

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Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bruce,

It might have started with the original dodger which was considerably
harder to see around/through.  Any dodger has to be high to allow head room
due to the elevated companionway.  The previous dodger was more aesthetic
but less functional.  This dodger provides good shade and protection while
not impeding entry or winch usage.  These windows are a hard glass and stay
clearer with less distortion and have a very minimal fabric frame.   It is
not uncommon for us to sit on the hump in a squatted position with our feet
on the forward corners of the aft locker lids.  When things get spicy we
are already in a position to brace and if a better vantage is required then
it is just the act of standing up.  The steering wheel is pretty large and
in order to get forward of it, it is typical for us to stand on the aft and
side benches to walk around.

IIRC one of the other 37+ owners shared our sentiments.  Maybe it was Brian
Fry.

Josh



On Feb 15, 2018 11:34 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List" 
wrote:

We've never felt that need.  Just curious, did that tendency arise after
you put on the Dodger or is it because of the dodger you want night to
improve your field of view?

Thanks for all your insights,

Bruce Whitmore



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 2/15/18 10:58 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

Both my wife and I prefer the vantage and the bench corners tend to provide
a more sturdy foot hold.

Josh

On Feb 15, 2018 10:32 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Just curious Josh, whu do you stand on the benches?
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 2/15/18 9:59 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?
>
> The pictures in this link are my brain storming image mock ups.  I stand
> on the benches constantly so having head room is extremely important.  Of
> course with head room means boom interference.  My imagination is that the
> bimini extends behind the cockpit in a reflection of the reverse transom.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwNze1nnSQ2-fktxdFRD
> XzRFQWl3SEVSRmpSaDY2YkVIMEEyeHdKUHJNNWFfeU9DQnoyMHc
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Feb 14, 2018 11:46 AM, "Bruce via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I should know more in the not too distant future.  Hard-to-Top is sending
>> me sample material, and if I like it, I think I’ll move forward with it in
>> the next 30 days or so.
>>
>>
>>
>> I’ll keep everyone posted,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> 1994 C 37/40+ “Astralis”
>>
>> Madeira Beach, FL
>>
>> 847.404.5092 <(847)%20404-5092>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Della
>> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 14, 2018 9:25 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I too am interested in this, my Bimini needs a lot of stitching right now
>> L
>>
>> Google-Fu shows some creative cheap solutions. Maryland watermen never
>> met an old piece of plywood they couldn’t nail onto a crab boat for shade
>> and shelter and people have just attached plywood to their Bimini frame. I
>> have also heard of using 4x8 foot fiberglass sheets sold at Home Depot for
>> shower installs and they are pretty cheap too and never rot. The next idea
>> isn’t exactly cheap, but does serve two functions: Get solar panels big
>> enough and bolt them together and use the panels themselves for the
>> covering. I think I would be in the 200-400 watt range that way!
>>
>> The latest Good Old Boat has an article about making a hard Bimini
>> yourself as well.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>> C 35 MK I
>>
>>
>>
>> (If have no pride but hate sun, rumor has it Harbor Freight blue tarps
>> are cheap)
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
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